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Installing cabinet handles


How to Install Cabinet Hardware

Get knobs and pulls right the first time.

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Family Handyman

Use the Door Rail as a Guide

The location of knobs and pulls isn't written in stone, but there are some standard practices. One good rule of thumb is to line up a knob with the top of the bottom door rail. If you're installing door pulls, line up the bottom of the pull with the top of the door rail. Always center them on the door stile.

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Temporarily Attach the Hardware

If you're not sure about where the knobs and pulls are to be installed, stick a piece of reusable putty adhesive to the hardware and try out different spots. Mark the one you like with a pencil and install the rest of the hardware accordingly. Reusable adhesive is available at hardware and art supply stores.

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Templates Make the Job Easier

If you have more than a few knobs or pulls to install, use a template when you install cabinet hardware. A template makes the job go faster, increases uniformity and reduces the chance for mistakes across the cabinet set. The template shown here costs under $5 at on Amazon. They are also available at any home center.

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Cover Unused Holes With Tape

Store-bought templates and well-used homemade templates have a bunch of holes you won't use on every job. Avoid using the wrong hole by sticking masking tape over the template and poking through only the holes you need. Instead of using a pencil to mark the location of the hole on the cabinet, use an awl. That way your drill bit won't skate off in the wrong direction when you drill the hole. Buy this wood awl from Amazon that will last 10+ years.

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Hide Old Holes With Back Plates

If you're switching from a pull to a knob or you'd prefer to select pulls with a different hole pattern for your cabinets, you can cover the old holes or hide damaged surfaces with back plates. Home centers don't have a huge selection, so consider buying from an online source. You'll find hundreds to choose from.

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Superglue the Knob

Oblong and rectangular knobs that fasten with a single screw are notorious for twisting over time. Thread sealant will keep a screw from coming loose from the knob, but it won't necessarily stop the knob from twisting. To solve the problem, add a drop of superglue to the back of these types of knobs before you install them.

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Make a Simple Drawer Template

If you don't have a template, make one. This simple template consists of two pieces of wood and takes only a few minutes to make. This same template can be used for almost any size door and most hardware sizes.

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Two-Sided Templates Prevent Tear-Out

If you're having problems with the wood on the back of the cabinet doors tearing out every time you drill a hole, make a two-sided template. Make sure the spacer wood is close to the same size as the cabinet doors. The tighter the fit, the less chance of tear-out.

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Use Thread Sealant to Keep the Screws Tight

Every time the screw in a knob works itself loose, the owners of those cabinets are going to think unflattering thoughts about whoever put them in. Avoid the problem by adding a dab of thread sealant to every screw you install. Loctite is one brand. Buy it from Amazon here.

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Mix Putty to Match

If back plates won't cover the old holes, use putty to fill them. The wood grain on cabinet doors and fronts usually varies in color, so take one of the doors to a hardware store or home center, and buy three different colors of putty. Buy one that matches the darkest grain, one that matches the lightest grain and one halfway between. Use the three to mix a custom color to fill the holes.

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Install Hardware Higher on the Lowest Drawer

Most drawer pulls are centered on the drawer fronts, but if the cabinet you're working on has two or three drawers the same size and one larger one at the bottom, install the bottom knob (or pull) higher than the center of that drawer front. Install it so all the knobs on the cabinet are spaced evenly. This configuration is pleasing to the eye, and you won't have to bend over as far to open the bottom drawer.

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Perfect Finish Touch-Ups

After you finish installing cabinet knobs, set aside a small container of the paint or finish used on the cabinets for future touch-ups. If the cabinet manufacturer didn't include one with the cabinets, you can make one by cleaning out an old bottle of nail polish with nail polish remover and filling it with your paint or finish.

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Adjust Hinges on Misaligned Doors

If your cabinet doors are out of whack and you have European-style hinges, you're in luck. Euro hinges are designed for easy adjustment. Don't let their complex look scare you; all you have to do is turn a few screws, and any mistakes you make are easy to correct. The Euro hinge shown here adjusts in three directions. Others adjust in two directions. Either way, it's a trial-and-error process: You make adjustments, close the door to check the fit, then adjust again until it's right. First, if the door isn't flush with the doors next to it, adjust the depth screw. This screw moves the door in or out. Some depth screws move the door as you turn them. But with most, you have to loosen the screw, nudge the door in or out and then tighten the screw. If your hinges don't have depth screws, start with the side screws. Second, if the door is crooked—not standing parallel to adjacent doors or square with the cabinet—adjust the side screw. This moves the door from side to side. In some cases, you have to loosen the depth screw slightly to adjust the side screw. Third, if the door is flush and parallel with other doors but too high or low, use the mounting screws to raise or lower the mounting plates. Loosen the screws at both hinges, slide the door up or down and tighten the screws. Some mounting plates adjust by turning a single screw.

Originally Published: April 23, 2019

How to Install Cabinet Hardware without Losing Your Mind

How to install cabinet hardware the right way so you don’t mess up the lovely finish on your new cabinets.

You’re standing in front of your brand new or freshly painted cabinets. You know you want gorgeous drawer pulls and cabinet knobs to complete the look, but there’s only one thing standing in the way…

Installation.

If you’re going to get those fabulous pulls onto your cabinets, you’re going to need to drill holes in them.

But they’re so pristine, so beautiful, so unblemished.

Just the thought of putting holes in that unmarred surface gives you second thoughts and you start wondering if you really need hardware at all.

But don’t let a little intimidation stand in the way of fulfilling your vision. You can drill those holes, and the cabinets will be even better for it.

You just need a few tips to get you started in the right direction and give you the confidence you need to attack this project. Only a few nerve-wracking minutes separate you from the completion of your whole project!

This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.

How to Install Cabinet Hardware without Wrecking your Cabinets

This was me last week, putting the finishing touches on our master bathroom makeover. Instead of replacing the vanity, I painted it a dark gray (Valspar Crucible) and the finish looked so smooth and pretty.

I had a drill in one hand and a package of the prettiest brass handles in the other, and it took everything I had to drill that first hole.

Why Install Cabinet Hardware?

It can be really scary drilling holes in your brand new beautiful cabinets. Whether you painted old cabinets or got brand new ones, you don’t want to do anything to disturb the untouched finish.

To Add Hardware, or not to? That is the Question.

As you stand there gazing upon your new vanity or kitchen, you’re probably asking yourself, “Do I even need hardware?”

The answer is: It depends. On style, preference, and usability. In the end it’s totally up to you, but here are a few things to consider when trying to decide.

Function

Hardware keeps your finish from getting nicks and dings from frequent use. This is especially helpful for painted cabinets.

No matter how good your paint job is, it will probably pick up a few blemishes over time, especially in high traffic areas, where everyone is opening and closing that cabinet a million times a day.

In my experience, not everyone is as careful with my masterpiece, I mean my cabinets, as I am. Here’s my kitchen trash cabinet, which is due for a touch-up:

Form

Hardware also calls attention to the design of the cabinets. When you update a kitchen or bathroom, the cabinets make up a big chunk of your design style.

Once they’re installed or updated, you want the biggest bang for your design buck, so you pick something pretty to bring out the effect of the lines and curves of the cabinets.

If you are NOT trying to emphasize your cabinets for some reason, or if their style doesn’t lend itself to knobs and pulls (like a super-sleek mid-mod design), you might want to skip the hardware.

Fun

Finally, the most fun reason to use hardware is the same reason we decorate birthday cakes – to celebrate. It’s like jewelry. You can have a great outfit, but it still needs a little something before you walk out the door to that dinner party.

Like cabinet knobs.

Hmm, maybe that’s a new earring trend. No? We’ll just stick to putting them on the cabinets then.

But you get my point. Sometimes the smallest details can bring out the look of the whole room and finish it off with the perfect amount of bling.

Like my brass pulls that match my new sink faucets. They make the touches of gold make sense and stand out just the right amount against the dark finish of the cabinets.

Personally, I always vote in favor of hardware. It’s the perfect meeting of form and function, providing a service while elevating the style of your space.

By the way, I got these drawer pulls and cabinet knobs on final clearance from Target, but if you’re looking for a larger selection or specialty pieces, I always recommend DL Lawless hardware. (That’s not an affiliate link, I just think they’re great.)

How to Install Cabinet Hardware

Use a Template!

To install your cabinet hardware correctly, you’ll first need a template. This can be a plastic template designed exactly for this purpose, or a simple cardboard template that you make yourself.

I do this kind of project often enough that I decided to buy one instead of making one each time. Even if you’re only doing one kitchen, the little plastic templates are so handy, and cheap enough that it’s probably worth picking one up.

If you decide to make your own, simply hold up a piece of cardboard to the location of your first knob, with the edges lined up to the edges of your cabinet and drill a hole through the cardboard. That will be where you mark all your other holes on each cabinet.

You’ll need a different template for drawer pulls. You’ll make it the same way, but with a hole for each drawer pull screw.

Measure Twice, Drill Once

Measuring for cabinet and drawer pulls can be a little intimidating. This is definitely one time you’ll want to measure twice, cut once.

First, decide where you want the hardware to go on each door and drawer. This decision is totally up to you, but I like to center everything, meaning I measure the same distance from the top of the cabinet as from the side.

Design Tip: Make sure that your door pulls look nicely balanced when a pair is lined up together. You don’t want them too close to each other, which could look crowded. So if you have larger pulls, you might want to separate them a little.

Once you’ve figured out the look you want, hold your template up to a cabinet door, and settle it along the edges of the door. Use a Sharpie to mark a circle around the hole you’ll be using.

Also use your Sharpie to mark a dot on the door, inside that hole on the template.

Flip your template over and mark a matching dot on the cabinet door that meets the first one, so you have a matched pair.

To mark the drawer pulls, line up the template in the middle of the drawer, with the edge of the template overlapping either the top or the bottom of the drawer.

To find the center of the drawer, take the total measurement of the drawer front from left to right, and divide that number in half. (My drawers are 18″ wide, so the halfway point is 9″.) Line up the center mark of the template on this halfway number.

Now stand back and eyeball the dots. Make sure they line up together and look balanced, centered, and level. If anything seems off, now’s the time to fix it!

(You can remove Sharpie marks with alcohol, but always test this first on the inside of a cabinet door, to make sure it doesn’t mess up your finish. If your cabinets are white or light colored, you could use a pencil instead of a Sharpie. )

Drill Fearlessly

Once you’ve marked where you want the hardware to go, it’s time to drill that first nerve-wracking hole. Don’t worry, you got this!

Fit the correct drill bit into your drill. This is usually a 5/16″ for standard cabinet hardware screws, but check yours first to make sure that’s the correct size.

Line your drill bit up to the hole you marked on the front of the cabinet door. Holding the drill as level as possible, slowly start drilling a hole. Keep the drill level to help your hardware line up correctly.

Drilling from front to back will keep the wood from splintering on the front of the door. The back may splinter a bit as the drill comes through the back of the door, but this will mostly be covered by the head of the screw, and it won’t be visible from the front anyway.

Splintering on the back of the door where the drill exits

If you want to be extra cautious with the finish on the front of your cabinets, use tape to keep the wood from splintering as you drill. Simply put a small piece of tape on the front of the area you’re drilling, and mark your holes on each piece of tape. Once you’ve drilled the hole, you can remove the tape before applying the hardware.

Add Hardware

Now for the fun part! Grab your cabinet knob and screw, and put the pretty on.

When you’re adding the hardware, it’s a good idea to hold the knob to the front of the door, and tighten the screw at the back.

If you’re like me, you’ll want to hold the back screw and twirl the front piece onto it. But as it twists onto the wood, it could mess up your new paint finish at the very end.

Not fun.

Simply hold the front with your fingers and screw from the back. You may need a screwdriver to tighten the last bit.

Problems Solved

On my custom cabinets, I found that the drawer fronts are thicker than standard drawer fronts, so the screws that came with my drawer pulls weren’t long enough.

After a moment of panic, I realized I just needed to get longer screws to fit. I found that machine screws #8 were just the right diameter to fit the standard hardware I had, and they come in several lengths. Problem solved.

If you did happen to put a hole in the wrong place, first of all you’d be in good company. Been there, done that. It’s not the end of the world, although it might feel like it for a minute.

Simply fill the hole with wood filler. Once it’s dry, sand lightly. Then you can repaint or re-stain the area to match your cabinet finish.

Finished Hardware Makes a Finished Project

Since hardware is usually the last step in a cabinet installation, you’re probably done now! That wasn’t so bad, was it?

You triumphed over your fear of drilling that first hole, and now your cabinets are prettier and more functional than ever before.

I love the look of fresh, clean, just-finished cabinets with pretty hardware all lined up in a row down the wall of my bathroom or kitchen. It speaks to the part of me that loves symmetry and order.

Next week I’ll share with you the process we used for drilling holes in our tile backsplash wall to hang our mirrors. It was even scarier than drilling holes in our cabinets! Sign up for the newsletter and I’ll let you know when that post comes out.

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I hope your cabinet hardware brings you as much joy as mine does. Let me know if you have any questions about the process. Also, see my posts on replacing cabinet hinges, and hanging mirrors on tile for more bathroom remodeling tips!

Tools

Instructions

  1. Decide where you want to put your drawer pulls and cabinet knobs. I recommend centering them on the drawer fronts, and in the corner of the cabinets, but you could choose alternate placements too.
  2. Measure where those placements end up on the templates by holding the template up to the door/drawer and circle the corresponding hole on the template with a Sharpie.
  3. For cabinet doors, line up the template along the edge of the door front and mark through the correct template hole onto the door. Then, if you have two doors that meet in the center of a cabinet, such as a sink base, flip the template over as a mirror image to mark the matching door.
  4. For drawers, find the center of the drawer by measuring from one edge of the drawer front to the other edge and divide that number in half. Align your template with the center line on that half number measurement, and the edge of the template hanging on the top (or bottom) edge of the drawer. Mark the holes that correspond to the width of your drawer pull.
  5. Stand back and check that all your dots line up correctly and look balanced. If needed, remove the Sharpie marks with rubbing alcohol and re-mark the corrected spots.
  6. Attach a drill bit that matches the size of your hardware screws to your drill.
  7. Drill at the marks from the front of the cabinet to the back. (Keep drill as level as possible. )
  8. Hold the pulls to the front of the door and screw the bolt in from the back of the cabinet or drawer. Try to avoid spinning the knob against the front of the door, to keep your finish in pristine condition.

Notes

If you're concerned about your drill marking up the finish on the front of your cabinets, you could put a piece of painter's tape at the location you want to drill, then mark on the tape rather than on the door. Drill right through the tape, and remove it before attaching the hardware.

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How to install handles on furniture facades: marking, fastening

It is not difficult to assemble furniture on your own - this is what many consumers think when ordering a set. Despite the simplicity and clarity of designs, many face difficulties in the process of installing fittings. It is especially difficult to properly mount handles that require marking and drilling holes. If you make a mistake in this process, the handles in the future may interfere with the opening of drawers, adjacent cabinets.

Installation of handles on facades involves the use of the following available tools:

There is a large selection of products, the most common of which are models in the form of brackets or ratings. They can be positioned vertically, horizontally or a combination. In general, the fastening of handles can be divided into two types: according to a template and without a template.

Installing handles without a template step by step

1. First you need to draw a line where we will mark the distance from the edge. Place the facade on a flat surface.

Applying a tape measure.

We retreat 45-50 mm, depending on the facades.

In my case, I retreated exactly 45 mm.

2. Moving the tape measure to the left, draw a straight line without lifting the pencil.

3. The next step is to mark the centers of the handle.

To do this, measure the distance between the holes in the handle itself.

The distance is measured strictly from the center to the center of the hole.

I got 128 mm.

There are generally accepted standards for center holes, the distance between them is always a multiple of 32 mm.

They are:

4. We measure the facade.

Exactly 500 mm comes out.

5. Pick up a calculator.

Subtract the distance between the handle holes from the total front width and divide it in half.

500mm - 128mm /2 =186mm.

6. We measure 186 mm from each edge and get accurate marks for drilling holes.

Check the result.

Before drilling, it is recommended to “peck” or pierce future holes with an awl, preventing the drill from moving.

To simplify the installation process, a cardboard template will help, in which it is worth drilling the holes for the fasteners in advance. Having correctly measured and made the markup, it will only be necessary to adjust the template to the facades of the headset.

1. Place the door on a table or any flat surface.
2. Measured 5 cm from the corners (edges) and put a dot in the places where the handle should be located.
3. Draw two mutually perpendicular lines through the points. The place of the first fastener is the point of the first intersection. Be sure to use a square when drawing, applying it to the edges of the door.
4. Measure the distance between the mounting holes on the handle.
5. The distance between the holes is transferred from the intersection point. With a horizontal installation, the displacement is carried out to the side, with a vertical installation - down. The second attachment point is indicated.
6. Drill 2 mounting holes from the front of the door. Perform this operation as carefully as possible.
7. Mounting screws are inserted from the rear. A handle is mounted on the front side. Screwing is done with a screwdriver.

The handles must be firmly attached and must not wobble. If this problem is present, it is worth placing washers under the screw caps and re-attaching.

Anyone who intends to cope with the task of screwing handles to the kitchen fronts of sliding shelves will have to do the same manipulations. The only difference will be the size of the marks in the center of the boxes. Initially, the middle of the facade is calculated, after which, 5 cm down is counted from the top edge. This point is the center of the installation. From the center in different directions, the length of the mounting hole is outlined. Lines and handles are always horizontal. The facade is illuminated along with the frame. As a rule, longer screws are used.

Installing a furniture handle using a furniture template

Installing a handle on glass fronts

How to install handles

Hello, dear reader! You know that exciting feeling before installing furniture handles. After all, this is one of the important points. It is very easy to make extra holes and then find additional funds and time for rework.

I myself “beamed” the front doors on the first installations and I felt very bad then. Now I mark the facades for handles, taking into account the mistakes made, and my system works fine. I want to share with you my method and save you from unnecessary movements and expenses.

Procedure

I never put furniture under the handles before installation. First, there are difficulties in transportation. Secondly, the installed product looks different from the modules and therefore it is impossible to see exactly the best position of the handle on the door.

Be sure to take into account the possibility of blocking neighboring cabinet modules in the wrong location. Often such situations arise in corner kitchens. To check, I put a handle and open the facade, no obstacles should arise.

I always consult with the owner of the furniture about the location of the handles. We are all different people and the concept of beautiful and comfortable sometimes differs greatly from our ideas. I can afford, just a few tips when options exist.

Use a precision square and a sharpened pencil or fine marker. It is better to sharpen the drill bit sharply. Before drilling, I check the markings with a printed pen several times, applying the holes on the handle to the markings on the facade.

Within walking distance from you, there is a service for calculating cabinet furniture.

Calculation of markings for handles

First of all, we measure the center distance on the handle itself. There are certain standards in these sizes (correct me in the comments if I'm wrong) that are multiples of 32. The most popular wheelbase sizes are 96mm and 128mm.

When positioned vertically, use the width of the square ruler. I align the outer edge of the square with the vertical edges of the facade. From the horizontal edge I measure a distance equal to the width of the ruler in divisions. Those. I put both sizes with one touch.

When positioned horizontally, I measure the width of the facade, subtract the center distance of the handle and divide the difference by two. Then I flush the outer edge of the square with the horizontal edge of the facade and put the markup.

Nuances

When marking railing handles vertically, the distance from the hole to the edge of the handle should be taken into account. And set the distance from the horizontal edge of the facade, from the edge of the handle. And not the first hole as on the brackets the shape of the handle.

I use a 5mm diameter drill bit for drilling addition, which allows for a slight displacement of the handle bolt in the hole, for precise positioning. Or it happens that the drill has shifted by 2-3 mm - the diameter will allow us to correct this error.

There are handles on which the shape almost does not cover the mounting holes. For such fittings, it is better to use a drill with a diameter of 4 - 3.5 mm. And be sure to use a pike-shaped drill or, at worst, pierce and hit the markup with an awl.

We often hear questions about additives for handles on glass fronts. I think that there is enough material on this topic for a separate article. This topic is already listed in my article idea bank and will soon be released on the pages of my blog.

Total

Now you can get down to business with ease.

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