Trim cherry blossom tree
Cherry Ornamental Trees- Pruning, Winter Care and Fertilizing
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These trees should be pruned in early spring, before the sap starts to flow (March). This will remove some spring flowers, but promotes better growth. Pruning can also be done right after flowering. The time to make a long lasting effect on the form and structure of the plant is when the tree is young. Crossing or crowded branches, suckers and water sprouts should be removed. Low branches should also be removed, if desired, when the tree is young. This is best done by removing one or two branches a year, over a period of a few years, until the needed clearance is obtained. As the tree gets older, pruning every three to five years will keep the tree in good general shape. Water sprouts and suckers, however, should be removed each year. Newly planted trees respond very well to fertilization. Either granular, liquid or stake type fertilizers can be used. Granular fertilizers can be worked into the soil around the plant at a rate of 2 lbs or 2 pints per 100 square feet of planting bed. An alternative way to apply granular fertilizers starts with drilling or punching 6” deep holes at the drip line of the tree. Poured into these holes should be a total of 2 pounds of fertilizer per 1″ of trunk diameter (divided up and poured evenly between all of the holes). These holes should not be filled with more than 1/3 of the fertilizer and then they should be top filled with soil. This method of fertilization should only be done once a year, and is best done in late fall after leaf drop, or in early spring before the buds break. Multi Purpose 10-10-10 Fertilizer works well.
Liquid fertilizers (such as Miracle Gro) are mixed with water and applied the same as you would water the plant (see product for specific details). This should be done three or four times per year starting in late April and ending in mid July. Stake type fertilizers can be used following the directions on the package. With any of the above techniques, a higher nitrogen mix should be used; 20-20-20 or similar mix. Organic fertilizers, like manure, can also be used with good results. The material should be worked into open soil at a rate of one bushel per 1″ of trunk caliper or 100 square feet of bed area. As a tree matures, less fertilizing or lower nitrogen mixes should be used.
It is important to protect young trees from the winter sun. The trunks should be wrapped with a commercial grade tree wrap for the first two or three years. This wrap can be removed in the summer and then re-applied in fall.
Rabbits can do a great deal of damage to this plant in the winter. The plants can be protected with a fence formed with hardware cloth (looks like chicken wire but with small square holes). To do this, the plants branches should be tied in towards the center on smaller plants, and a circle of hardware cloth can be placed around the outside. Take care that the fence dose not rub and injure the bark. The base of the hardware cloth should be buried in the soil or mulch. This protection should be installed in late November and removed in mid April.
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How to prune a cherry tree – and when to prune it
Cherry trees make a lovely addition to any garden, but you need to know how to prune a cherry tree to keep it healthy and a good shape.
With their colorful foliage in fall, pretty spring blossom and some bearing delicious fruits, cherries offer both ornamental and productive appeal in a garden. You can also find compact and dwarf cherry trees suitable for containers – perfect for kitchen garden ideas.
Alongside those that are just grown for their beautiful blossom, there are both sweet cherry varieties – producing delicious, plump cherries that can be eaten direct from the tree – and sour cherry trees, with fruits more suited to use in cooking, baking or preserves.
The pruning method you adopt will differ depending on the variety you have, and whether your cherry is grown as an open centred bush, trained against a wall or trellis in a fan or espalier, or a weeping variety.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Shobeir Ansari)
How to prune a cherry tree – tips for beginners
'The goal when pruning cherry trees is to open up the center of the tree to allow sunlight and air to penetrate the branches and air to flow through,' explains Nikki McAteer of My Perfect Plants family-owned plant nursery in North Florida.
'The more sunlight the tree's inside branches receive, the more it will flower and then more fruit will be produced,' she continues.
Annually pruning cherry trees helps maintain a healthy balance of older fruiting wood and younger branches, and will keep the trees more compact, making it easier to pick the fruit.
Maintaining a clear flow of air through the cherry tree will also help to protect the tree from diseases.
'Reduce the risk of infections by disinfecting any tools with alcohol or dilute bleach before starting to prune,' explains Dan Neuteboom at Real English Fruit .
To make sure you have the right tools for pruning a cherry tree, you will need:
- Lopping shears for pruning smaller branches.
- Pruning saw for thicker branches.
- Hand pruners or secateurs for trimming very small branches.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Igor Stevanovic)
When should a cherry tree be pruned?
When should a cherry tree be pruned?
Opinion is a little divided and there are those that prefer to prune cherry trees in winter, others are spring pruners and some are summer pruners.
Summer pruning a cherry tree
Those who prune a cherry tree in late summer believe this is the best way to avoid the tree developing disease. In addition, it encourages slower growth of the tree.
'Great candidates for spring or summer pruning include cherry trees, which, if left alone, can grow up to three stories tall,' explains Susan Poizner of Orchard People , who provide education and consulting on fruit tree care.
Winter pruning a cherry tree
If you live in a cold climate, pruning cherry trees in late winter, when the tree is dormant, with no leaves or fruit, will encourage more rapid growth.
It is also easier to see the structure of the tree in winter, to help determine which branches to prune.
It is best to avoid pruning cherry trees in early winter as the tree will not have the stored energy to heal wounds caused by pruning.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Jacky Parker)
Spring pruning a cherry tree
Pruning in spring, after the trees buds have opened and leaves started to develop, is a way to identify and remove any unhealthy branches and encourage a desired branch structure. The downside is that is will not encourage as much growth in the cherry tree.
'The best time to prune fruiting cherry trees is in late summer after the tree has gone through its fruiting period,' says Nikki McAteer.
'Most other cherries can be pruned in late winter during dormancy, but with fruiting cherries, you don't want to risk cutting off the blooms that produce the sweet fruit in spring,' she adds.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Richard Newstead)
Pruning free-standing cherry trees
The method for pruning a cherry tree will depend on the age of the tree.
For young cherry trees:
- In the first year of pruning, to control the cherry tree's shape, cut back the central leader – or central trunk – 'to encourage to encourage the growth of lateral branches,' explains Dan Neuteboom.
- In the second year, choose about four well-spaced, wider laterals – side shoots – at least 18 inches from the ground, and shorten these by two-thirds. These will become the main branches.
- Remove any side shoots below these and cut the central trunk to just about the top lateral.
- The third year, once these main laterals have produced their own side shoots, prune back the strongest of these by half.
- From then on, annual pruning will enable you to control the tree size.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Jacky Parker)
How do I prune an old cherry tree?
Overall, sweet cherry trees require only light pruning once established. To prune a cherry tree once established:
- Shorten any strong vertical growing shoots crowding the center to allow the free flow of air.
- Remove any crossing, weak, dead, damaged or diseased branches.
- Shorten the tips of the remaining branches by about a third of new growth to encourage the development of fruit buds.
'During dormancy, in winter, the deciduous cherries will be leafless and you will have the best view of the branch structure. Additionally, you can prune back any suckers at the base of the tree. These will never produce viable fruit,' says Nikki McAteer.
If you have an established sour or acid cherry tree, however, it will need much heavier pruning that a sweet cherry, as the fruit is mainly produced on the previous year's growth.
If you have an established acid cherry tree, as well as removing dead, damaged or diseased branches, as above:
- Remove about a quarter of the remaining older wood, cutting back to a main branch or younger side-shoot.
- Shorten any young shoots that are more than 12 inches long by a third to encourage branching.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Monty Rakusen)
Pruning dwarf cherry trees
For pruning dwarf cherry trees, you can use the same method as other free-standing cherry trees, above.
How to prune weeping cherry trees
Using sharp pruners, remove suckers coming out of the base of weeping cherry trees. 'Remove suckers at any time of year,' advise the experts at Bower & Branch .
Prune out dead or dying branches back to live wood in winter – by scratching the wood to see where the live green wood begins.
On grafted trees, prune off any branches coming out from below the swelling near the top of the trunk as these won't 'weep' and will spoil the shape of the tree.
Trim the weeping branches to fall at least six inches from the ground and also prune more upright growing branches.
'Don't, however, remove more than 25 per cent of the canopy at one time when pruning a weeping cherry tree,' add the Bower & Branch experts.
(Image credit: Getty Images / Leonid Eremeychuk )
Should cherry trees be pruned every year?
Cherry trees should be pruned every year to maintain their shape and encourage healthy growth.
Pruning cherry trees will also result in a better crop of fruit, as removing branches will increase the exposure to sunlight of the remaining shoots.
'In general, when pruning cherry trees, try to make as few cuts as possible, removing a few complete branches in order to give the canopy an open structure,' says Dan Neuteboom.
how to prune correctly, scheme of crown formation of old and young trees
Cherry pruning is needed not only to form a beautiful crown. The main purpose of this procedure is to increase productivity. Unfortunately, not every gardener can boast of a good knowledge of pruning principles. In order for the cherry to grow more actively and delight its owners with ripe and large berries, you need to adhere to certain (not at all complicated) rules.
Contents
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1 Should cherries be trimmed at all?
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2 General pruning principles
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2.1 Shearing methods
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2.2 When to prune cherries
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3 Crown shaping
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4 Trimming features
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4.1 Tree cherry
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4. 2 Bush cherry
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4.3 Young tree
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4.4 Rejuvenation of old cherries
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4.5 Top trimming for height restriction
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5 Photo gallery: treelike cherries after pruning
Should cherries be trimmed at all?
Many novice gardeners ask themselves the question: do you need to prune cherries at all? Of course, it is necessary. This tree boasts very fast growth and branching, therefore, if it is not pruned, the crown will tangle very quickly, the central branches will no longer receive enough light and air, and fruiting will deteriorate or stop altogether.
Regular pruning of a plant will have a positive effect on it:
- annual growth will increase;
- fruiting will improve - the berries will become juicier and larger;
- it will be easier for the tree to endure wintering;
- all branches will receive enough light and air, and therefore there will be fewer drying and fading branches;
- kidneys will form and develop more actively.
General principles of trimming
The entire trimming process can be roughly divided into two steps:
When pruning cherries, thinning is most often used. This is due to the fact that her buds are located closer to the ends of the branches, so shortening will be less effective in improving fruiting.
To learn how to prune cherries correctly, you also need to be able to identify the type of branch:
Cutting methods
When pruning cherries, the following cuts are most often used:
- for lateral branching. The main branch (thicker) is cut down to a strong side branch;
- translation shortening. If the branch forks, it can be shortened by removing one of the shoots up to the fork. The choice of shoot depends on the situation, but when pruning cherries, the outer branching is most often left;
- per ring. In this case, the branch growing from the conductor is cut down to the very base.
The diagram clearly shows how a particular cut is made
Many gardeners know that most plants should be cut with preparations such as ground coal or garden pitch to protect the branch from infections and improve healing, but on cherry this rule does not apply. Processing cut branches of a cherry tree or bush will lead to difficulty in recovery.
When to prune cherries
Cherries (of any variety and type) are pruned every year. A fresh seedling, planted in March-April before the buds swell, is pruned immediately after planting to form a crown.
Any tree or shrub is pruned in early spring, before the buds swell. At this time, active sap flow has not yet begun, and the plant will tolerate the removal and shortening of branches well. If you did not have time to cut the cherry in March, you should not cut the branches after the swelling of the buds - there is a high probability that they will dry out to the very base.
Cherry pruning should be carried out before bud break
In summer, after fruiting, only mature, well-developed trees can be pruned. Autumn pruning is, as a rule, sanitary in nature - before winter, weak, drying, diseased branches are removed from cherries to make it easier for the plant to winter.
This sanitary pruning can be carried out in any month if necessary. If you notice a diseased or drying branch, remove it immediately. In autumn, it is worthwhile to carefully examine the tree for damaged or weak branches and cut them out, if any.
Crown formation
The best option for such a fruit tree is considered to be a sparsely-tiered crown. When shaping, they use the same methods as when trimming: shortening and thinning.
The formation of the crown is carried out only after planting the cherry in its permanent place. Therefore, if you dug a cherry for the winter, you need to cut it only after landing in the garden.
Skeletal branches of the first order are formed in the seedling immediately after planting in the spring. To do this, choose about 5 of the strongest branches, the lowest of which should be located at a distance of about 20–30 cm above the ground. All branches growing below this threshold are removed to the ring. For skeletal branches, those that grow at an angle of 40-50 degrees from the trunk are best suited. Shoots growing at sharper angles may break off under the weight of the berries. Choose branches that grow at the same distance from each other and are located along the entire diameter of the trunk.
The formation of skeletal branches after planting is an important stage in the care of the seedling
In the second year, branches of the second order are formed. To do this, remove the shoots growing on the upper side of the skeletal branches. It is also necessary to cut into a ring all the shoots that have grown from the trunk in a year. The central conductor (or, as it is also called, the leader) is cut in such a way that it is 25–30 cm higher than the uppermost tier of branches, no more.
When forming the crown of the seedling, branches growing inside the crown, weak twigs and small shoots on the lower part of the trunk are removed
Pruning features
Of course, pruning of different types of cherries differs from each other. Moreover, the same tree at different periods of its life also needs to be cut in its own way.
Tree cherry
For the gardener, the bouquet twigs and annual shoots of the tree cherry are of the greatest interest - it is on them that most of the berries are formed. The main operation is crown thinning to stimulate an increase in the number of fruitful areas.
Tree cherries are distinguished by their large size and high stems
When pruning tree cherries, the following procedures are carried out:
- forks are removed. To do this, a cut is made on the outer branching and branches growing towards the trunk or upwards are cut out;
- shorten long shoots. Shortening can be done on a branch or on a kidney. Short (up to 20 cm) shoots are not touched;
- small branches growing on the conductor are removed on the ring - thus the skeletal and fruit branches are strengthened.
Bush cherries
A feature of bush cherries is fruiting on annual shoots. Accordingly, when pruning this cherry, special attention should be paid to their constant active development.
Shrub cherries have a low trunk and compact size
When pruning bush cherries, follow these guidelines:
- shorten by a third the branches where the ends are starting to show. Skeletal branches in this case are cut to a well-developed lateral branch growing upwards;
- do not remove annual growths - this can lead to the death of the shoot after fruiting;
- it is necessary to prune shoots about 40–55 cm long to increase their branching;
- cut not on the ring, but on the lateral branching.
Young tree
When the seedling is established in its permanent place, it is pruned to form the correct crown. For this, only skeletal branches are left, and the rest are cut into a ring, leaving no hemp. At the same time, the rings are treated, contrary to the rule, with garden pitch.
The young cherry tree is pruned mainly to shape the crown
The following year, the biennial tree is protected from excessive thickening of the crown. To do this, remove the branches growing inside the crown. In the summer, you can still remove the green shoots growing on the trunk until they have time to get stronger. If they were not removed during the summer months, then these lignified branches are removed only the next year, in the spring.
In the future, new skeletal branches are formed near the tree, choosing them from among the strongest on the trunk, so that their number gradually increases to 13–15.
Rejuvenation of old cherries
Rejuvenation pruning of tree-like cherries is carried out when the bases of the skeletal branches are bare, and the annual growth becomes large and amounts to more than 10–15 cm. It is necessary to shorten the branches by a four-year-old wood. If the entire branch or its tip is bare, then they rejuvenate to the side branch of an older - five- or six-year-old - wood.
Bush cherries are rejuvenated when the branches are significantly exposed and growth is weakened. Branches are pruned to strong lateral branches grown on three-year-old wood.
Rejuvenation of an old tree should be carried out systematically. If the old cherry tree is already heavily neglected, then such pruning is carried out systematically for several years so as not to injure the plant too much. Rejuvenation is carried out along with the planned spring pruning.
The principles of rejuvenating pruning of old trees are quite simple:
- do not remove more than a meter of branches, because this can lead to the death of the whole tree;
- branches are not left completely bare when pruned, cutting off all branches;
- pruning is done above the fruit branch;
- young twigs that appear after pruning should also be shortened to encourage continued growth.
With regular pruning of old cherries, their age becomes less noticeable - they continue to bear abundantly. It is produced when the cherry reaches a height of 3-4 meters. Thus, the growth of the plant is limited. In this case, the conductor is transferred to a strong side branch.
The top of the cherry tree is also cut off when the conductor is more than 30 cm higher than the top skeletal branches.
- Young cherry after pruning gets a beautiful crown shape
- Thanks to pruning, cherry blossoms do not prevent small branches from accessing light and air.
Proper annual pruning of cherries is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Give the plant your care and time, and it will thank you with ripe berries and beautiful foliage.
- Author: Ira Shestakova
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Cherry pruning: 6 rules with photos and diagrams
Cherry tree grows fast. Without regular pruning after planting, it very soon turns into a ball of woven branches. Such a tree grows poorly and bears little fruit. To prevent such problems, regular pruning is needed. Let's figure out when and how to prune cherries and how to take into account the characteristics of berry varieties.
How to prune a cherry tree
Why is it necessary
Timing of the procedure
Principles of pruning
Features of working with different types of cherries
— Tree
— Bushy
Detailed instructions
— Spring treatment
— Autumn processing
Rejuvenation
Beginning and sometimes experienced gardeners doubt whether it is possible to cut cherries and why this should be done. We list the most important reasons that prove that the procedure is necessary.
- Uncontrolled growth of twigs leads to the appearance of a dense crown. It gets little air and light. This dramatically reduces the number of flower buds, and, consequently, the yield.
- An overgrown crown takes a lot of energy from the tree to form and grow shoots and leaves. The cherry is weakening, the harvest is decreasing.
- Insect pests often settle on thickened, poorly ventilated branches, pathogenic microflora develops.
Proper pruning prevents all these problems. It has a positive effect on the plant.
What pruning does
- Increases fruiting, and the berries grow larger.
- Increases annual growth.
- All branches receive adequate lighting and ventilation. Among them, there are fewer withering and fading.
- Kidneys actively form and develop.
- The tree tolerates winter cold well.
The crop tolerates pruning relatively easily. It can be done at different times. The best time is the period when there is no active sap flow. This is early spring, when the tree has not yet begun to grow, and autumn, when the plant hibernates before the cold. Spring pruning - sanitary and shaping. She is the main character of the season. It is carried out when the kidneys woke up and began to swell. In this phase, it is easy to distinguish a live branch from a dead one.
Summer pruning of cherries is possible for adult strong specimens after fruiting has ended. But even for them it is undesirable, if possible it is avoided. The active movement of the juices will not allow the wounds to heal quickly. They will drag on for a long time, which adversely affects the condition of the tree. The summer procedure involves only cutting out broken or diseased branches. The rest is left until autumn.
If the cherry trees are pruned well in spring, there will be almost nothing to do in autumn. It remains only to remove the dead and broken branches. If the crown was not formed in the spring, they do it in the fall. You can cut cherries even in winter, but at a temperature not lower than -8˚С. A sleeping tree will transfer the procedure easily, because sap flow is completely absent.
Only two steps are used to prune a crop. Let's briefly describe both.
- Shortening or trimming. With it, the upper part of the shoot is cut off. They do this to accelerate the growth of new shoots and activate the buds that are located below the cut line. On a cherry tree, branches longer than 0.4 m are usually cut. At the same time, pruning can be strong when half of the grown growth is removed, medium - a third of the growth is removed, or weak. In the latter case, a quarter is cut off.
- Thinning. The branch is cut off entirely, to the base. This is how weak, diseased or thickening crown shoots are removed. Its removal improves the flow of air and light to the remaining growth.
Branches can be trimmed in different ways. Let's analyze the basic techniques for performing a cut.
- Shortening by translation. Used for twigs. Leave only one branch from the fork. Usually, this is an external branching. The second branch is cut off.
- Side fork. Cut off a thick branch-base. Leave a strong side branch.
- On the ring. The branch is cut to its base.
- On the kidney. An oblique cut is made just above the bud, from which they plan to grow a new shoot.
An important point: all sections are immediately smeared with garden pitch or similar. This will help the plant recover and prevent infection.
Trees of different types are pruned differently. Let us briefly characterize the features of such pruning.
Tree-like varieties
The tree-like group includes large sprawling trees with a high stem. They are characterized by the formation of ovaries on the branches of a bouquet type. Therefore, the main purpose of pruning is to stimulate the growth of fruit-bearing areas. Carry out such procedures.
- Remove all small branches on the ring conductor. This strengthens the skeletal branches.
- Long branches are shortened "for branching" or "for a kidney". Too short shoots up to 200 mm long are not cut.
- Remove forks. Cut off shoots for branching, remove shoots that are directed upwards or along the trunk.
Bushy varieties
Plants of the bushy group are compact, with a low trunk. Fruits are formed on annual shoots. Therefore, you need to activate their growth. Conduct the following activities.
- Branches with exposed ends are trimmed by a third. If this is a skeletal branch, it is cut at the level of the lateral branch directed upwards.
- Cut shoots that have reached a length of 45-55 cm. This enhances branching.
- Do not cut "on the ring", it is better to use the "side fork" technique.
- Annual growths cannot be cut. Otherwise, the branch after fruiting may die.
How to prune cherries in spring
Sanitary pruning is carried out: all dried, broken and diseased branches are cut out. After proceed to the formation of the crown. Usually it is formed in tiers. This means that the branches are left only at the tier levels. The rest is removed. The average distance from the soil level to the lower tier is 85-100 cm. The gap between the first and second levels is 45-50 cm, and between the subsequent ones is 35-40 cm. We have prepared instructions on how to properly form tiers.
- Completely remove the shoots on the trunk between the first tier and ground level.
- Cut off all branches growing between levels.
- Form a tier. To do this, cut out all the extra branches inside it. There should be no more than four or six of them, the strongest and most viable. The distance between them is not less than 12-15 cm.
- Clear the levels-tiers of unnecessary branches. This growth, which is located near the skeletal branches, often duplicates them. It is not recommended to shorten it, it is cut off “on the ring”.
- Trim the annual growth. On skeletal branches, it can reach a meter per year. This is too much, because the root system does not have time to grow so quickly, which affects the nutrition of the tree. Remove a third of the growth that has appeared. But if the branches have grown too large, you can cut off half.
- Treat the sections with a disinfectant.
Spring cutting can be completed by shortening the center conductor. Then the crown will "open" and form in the form of a bowl. This is done if they want to stimulate the growth of another level-tier or if they need to slow down the growth of a tree. The bowl-shaped crown is optimal for a tree growing in the shade. In all other cases, it is not necessary to cut the conductor. It is enough to shorten its growth a little.
How to properly prune cherries in autumn
On the eve of wintering, sanitary pruning is carried out on cherries. Do it like this.
- Cut out any diseased, dead or broken branches.
- Cut off shoots pointing inwards.
- Remove all growth on the trunk below the first tier.
- Cut out the young intertwined thickened shoots.
If no shaping pruning was done in spring, it should be done in autumn.
It is performed in the spring, at the same time as pruning. For tree-like varieties, the signal for the need for the procedure is the exposure of the base of the skeletal branches and a decrease in growth to 12-15 cm. The branches are shortened to four-year-old wood. It happens that the whole escape is already exposed. It is cut to a five-year-old wood for lateral branching. Bushy varieties rejuvenate with strong exposure of twigs and growth retardation. Branches are cut to three-year-old wood. Cut into lateral branching.
Rejuvenation is carried out regularly. Every year, part of the branches are processed. If such procedures have not been carried out and the cherry is too overgrown, the anti-aging pruning is divided into stages, carried out for several years.