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Taking cuttings roses


How To Take Rose Cuttings

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Roses can be grown successfully from cuttings and will grow on to make good flowering plants.

Choose healthy stems of the current season’s growth and follow our step-by-step advice to be sure of success. Roots will be produced over the winter months so that the rose cuttings can be potted in spring or early summer next season.

Rose cuttings should be taken from the current year’s growth. You can take flexible, softwood rose cuttings of very new growth in late-spring and summer – these root quickly and easily. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer and early autumn, when new stems are firmer and more mature. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems in winter, and are  the slowest and most difficult to root.

For best results we recommend taking softwood rose cuttings in late spring and early summer, choosing pencil-sized stems just beneath a faded flower.

Here, Monty demonstrates how to take hardwood cuttings from species roses:

Secateurs are the best tool to use to take cuttings and to help you choose the right pair for you we’ve reviewed different types of secateurs and put together a list of the best secateurs

There are also more detailed, individual secateur reviews.

And if you need help choosing other pruning tools see our expert, individual lopper reviews and best loppers round up.

In a hurry? Here is a selection of our Best Buys from our secateurs and loppers tests:

More roses content:

Discover how to take rose cuttings, below.

You Will Need

Step 1

You can take cuttings from any type of rose you choose, but make sure you select long, strong, healthy stems from this season’s growth, not old wood.

Selecting rose cutting material from the current year’s growth

Step 2

Make the cuttings 25cm long, cutting above a bud at the top to remove the shoot tip and below one at the base. Leave one leaf at the top and remove all the lower leaves.

Removing the leaves from the stems

Step 3

Dip the base of the cutting into rooting hormone mixture. Insert several cuttings into a large pot of gritty compost or a narrow trench bottomed with horticultural grit.

Inserting the cuttings into a trench filled with grit

Step 4

Water well, place the pot in a shaded spot and leave until cuttings have rooted. Keep the compost moist. Pot up rose plants individually when well rooted, probably next summer. If growing the cuttings in a trench, carefully fork them out to avoid damaging the roots and plant out in their final location.

Filling in the trench

Rose replant disease

Rose replant disease is a poorly understood disorder affecting roses that have been planted in soil where roses were previously grown. It’s thought to be the result of pest and pathogen build up in the soil. Symptoms include poor establishment, growth and even death of the rose.

Avoid it by swapping the old soil with fresh soil from somewhere else in the garden. Feed with a high-nitrogen fertiliser after planting.

 

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How to Propagate Roses From Stem Cuttings

By

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 10/18/22

Reviewed by

Julie Thompson-Adolf

Reviewed by Julie Thompson-Adolf

Julie Thompson-Adolf is a master gardener and author. She has 13+ years of experience with year-round organic gardening; seed starting and saving; growing heirloom plants, perennials, and annuals; and sustainable and urban farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

The Spruce / Claire Cohen

In This Article

Project Overview

Propagating herbaceous plants is often done by rooting green stem cuttings, but the process can also be successful with woody-stemmed plants, including some roses. Rooting stem cuttings of roses and other woody plants works best with so-called "wild" or "native" pure species, rather than hybrid shrubs. That's because many hybrids are created through a grafting process in which branches from showy but delicate species are melded onto rootstock from a sturdier species.

The result of grafting can be a spectacular plant with exceptional root hardiness. But if you propagate a new plant from a branch clipping, it will lack the parent plant's root hardiness. Thus, it's best to use stem clippings only to propagate non-grafted roses, which include many so-called shrub roses.

The stem clipping method is a bit tricky with woody plants, and you should expect that several attempts will end in failure. Take extra cuttings to ensure you have at least a few viable prospects. Still, if you take your cuttings from a healthy rose plant and follow the proper steps to root them, your odds of developing new plants will be high.

What Is a Shrub Rose?

The term "shrub rose" is defined by the American Rose Society (ARS) as “a class of hardy, easy-care plants that encompass bushy roses that do not fit in any other category of rose bush. ” Many people use the term to refer to any type of non-hybrid rose, but there are several types of hybrid roses that do fit into the ARS's definition of shrub roses, including Moyesi hybrids, hybrid musk roses, Kordesii roses, English roses, and Knock Out roses. These join the many native rose species to form the category of shrub roses. However, any of these hybrid roses described as an "own-root" rose rather than a grafted rose may lend itself to successful propagation from stem cuttings.

When to Propagate a Rose by Stem Cuttings

Rooting a stem cutting can be done almost any time, but cuttings taken from new growth that has recently flowered (rather than old, hardened wood) are more likely to root successfully. Spring or fall is the best time to take softwood stem cuttings. Select them in the early morning hours when the plant is well hydrated. Moreover, avoid taking cuttings when your plant is heavily blooming. At this time, the plant is putting most of its energy into flower production rather than root development, so cuttings won't readily root.

Before Getting Started

Sharp pruners are necessary when taking rose cuttings. Dull tools can crush the rose's woody stems instead of forming a clean slice, which can make the cutting susceptible to fungal rot. Furthermore, make sure to clean your pruners before and after each cutting to avoid transmitting any diseases. 

Be patient when growing roses from cuttings. It can take several years for your new rose to produce flowers.

Click Play to Learn How to Grow Roses From Cuttings

Equipment / Tools

Materials

The Spruce / Michela Buttignol

  1. Take Cuttings

    Start by taking a 12-inch segment of a new stem that has recently bloomed, cutting it from the plant at a 45-degree angle.  The stem should be about the width of a pencil. The best cuttings for rooting usually come from the sides of the bush, rather than the center.

    Remove any flowers or flower buds along the cut stem. Flowers or buds on the cut branch will consume energy, and you want to encourage the stem to refocus its survival energy on sending out new roots. If you're taking multiple cuttings, place them in a container of water to keep them hydrated until you're ready to propagate them.

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

  2. Remove Most Leaves

    Remove all but the top two sets of leaves on the stem. Then, cut off the remaining portion of the stem just above this top set of leaves. Removing the excess leaves will help the cutting divert its energy to root production.

  3. Prepare the Stem for Rooting

    Using sharp pruning shears, make a fresh cut on the bottom of the stem just below a stem node (a bump where new growth typically forms). Then, slice into the bottom of the stem about a 1/4 inch up, splitting the stem into open quarters.

    Apply Rooting Hormone

    Although not absolutely necessary, applying a rooting hormone can help spur your rose plant into developing new roots. Rooting hormones can be found in powder, liquid, and gel form—you'll have the best success with the powder version when working with roses. To apply, slightly moisten the split end of the rose cutting, and then dip it into the powdered rooting hormone. Shake off any excess.

  4. Plant the Cutting

    Fill a small pot with at least 6 inches of a potting mix formulated especially for roses. Poke a hole in the potting medium, and then insert the stem sliced-side down, taking care not to rub off the rooting hormone. Gently pack the soil around the stem, and water well. 

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

  5. Cover the Cutting

    Loosely cover the cutting, pot and all, with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help retain soil moisture. Be sure not to let the plastic touch any remaining leaves on the stem, which can cause them to remain wet and susceptible to fungal disease. Putting a tall stake into the pot can help hold the plastic away from the leaves. The bag also needs to be slightly vented, so condensation can escape—if you seal the bag too tightly, the stem can rot.  Place the cutting under grow lights or near a bright window.

  6. Monitor the Cutting

    Keep the soil moist until roots begin to form, which usually takes about two weeks. Check for roots by gently tugging on the stem—if there's resistance, roots are probably present.

    Your cutting can be transplanted into a pot or the ground as soon as the roots are firmly established or when new leaf sprouts begin to appear along the stem. Make sure to harden off the new rose—i.e., gradually expose it to outdoor conditions—before planting outside.

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

How to Prepare for Rose Bloom Season

methods of cuttings in winter, spring, autumn with photos and videos

Rules for propagation of roses by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the main methods of rose propagation. There are two options - green and cuttings and lignified. The first case is used for summer propagation of garden roses. The second is for winter and spring. And he is the most popular. And in this way you can propagate roses from a bouquet, because in flowering shoots the lower part of the shoot is always lignified.

Cutting cuttings

Rooting cuttings can be cut from any part of the shoot, except for the top with a flower. Each cutting should have 2 nodes - this is the place where the leaves are attached to the stem and where the buds are. The thickness of the cutting should be at least 5 mm - too thin will not take root.

The bottom cut should be oblique - it is made just below the knot, stepping back about 5 mm. Why oblique? But because the callus (the tissue from which the roots then grow - a kind of white growth) is best formed around the cut. And the larger its area, the larger the callus. And one more thing: it is very important to make cuts with a sharp knife - if the tissues of the shoot are wrinkled, it will most likely rot and will not give roots. nine0005

Here the upper cut must be straight. They do it by stepping back from the node the same 5 mm. Why direct? Moisture escapes through the wound, and besides, it is an open gate for infection. That is why the area of ​​the upper cut should be minimal.

Preparing the cuttings

Remove the lower leaves from the cut cuttings. And the upper ones are shortened - rose leaves usually consist of 3 or 5 segments, and only 2 need to be left. For reliability, it is useful to cover the upper cut with children's plasticine. nine0005

Soil for rooting cuttings

Rose cuttings give roots, but not as easily as, for example, currant twigs - just putting them in water is not enough. It is best to root them in the ground. And there are options.

River sand. It is light, fluffy and very well breathable, which is necessary for the formation of roots. But there is a problem - the sand dries up very quickly. Therefore, it will need to be watered frequently. Or add perlite to it, which retains moisture. nine0005

Soil mixtures. There are 2 classic options:

The sand in this case is the baking powder. And peat or earth provide moisture capacity, that is, planted cuttings will have to be watered less often.

Rooting conditions for cuttings

Cuttings are buried in the substrate by about 1 cm. You need to make holes with a stick or pencil, insert the cuttings there and lightly compress the soil with your hands. nine0005

Then the cuttings should be well watered. And be sure to cover with either a jar or a plastic bag so that there is constantly high humidity around the planted cuttings. But! It is necessary (required!) Once a day to remove the jar (package) so that the cuttings are ventilated - otherwise they will become moldy and rot.

Another important point: the soil temperature should be about 21 °C, and the air temperature should be 2 - 3 °C lower (2). There is no place for cuttings on the windowsill - it is always cooler than necessary, and cold soil, combined with high humidity, always leads to an outbreak of fungal diseases. nine0005 Photo: pixabay.com

And, of course, cuttings need a lot of light. But not direct sunlight is the best - they will provoke increased evaporation of moisture from the leaves, as a result of which the cuttings can dry out.

Methods for cutting roses

Roses can be propagated by cuttings at almost any time of the year. And there are some interesting methods that allow you to propagate roses more efficiently.

Cuttings of roses from a bouquet

Bouquets given on March 8th have a short lifespan - in most cases they will last no more than a week. And so we want this beauty to be with us always ... But this is possible! For example, you can cut cuttings from roses from a bouquet, and then grow them in the garden. nine0005

Cuttings will only take root if the roses in the bouquet were fresh. It is useless to root dried shoots. But how to understand how fresh a flower is?

- The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sepals, small green “leaves” at the very base of the flower, advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - If they are raised up, literally "hug" the bud, then the flower is fresh. If they are lowered down, then the rose has been cut long ago.

Leaves are the second indicator of freshness. nine0005

– If you pick up a flower and the leaves begin to fall off, it means that the rose is not fresh, says Svetlana Mikhailova.

By the way, many buyers are guided by the degree of dissolution of the flower. They think that if the rose is still in bud, it means that it was cut recently. Nothing like this!

– Roses are stored in the refrigerator until they are sold, explains Svetlana Mikhailova. - They are even transported in refrigerators. Under such conditions, the bud will not open. Moreover, flowers are always stored and transported "dry", without water - they are simply packed in paper. And how much the rose spent in this form, no one knows. nine0005

It happens that without water and in the cold, roses spend a week or more. The buds will remain unopened, but the plant has already died. And so you bring home a bouquet, put it in water, hoping that now the flowers will bloom. But their heads just hang, never opening. They are dead. And it is pointless to cut such roses.

- This is often the case with Dutch roses, - says Svetlana Mikhailova, - because they are brought from afar. But now there are a lot of Russian greenhouse roses on the flower market. They are usually much fresher. nine0005

And this is the easiest way to cut them.

Cutting roses in winter

In winter, you can cut cuttings from purchased roses, for example, from the same bouquets. Or specially buy a flower you like in the store. In this case, the method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used.

Cuttings of roses in spring

Specialists do not advise radical pruning of roses in autumn, it is better to pin the shoots to the ground for the winter, and if you use this technology, then spring cuttings of roses are your option. After the winter shelter has been removed from the plants, they need to be cut off - cut out frozen branches and remove excess stems. So these very extra stems are excellent material for cuttings. nine0005

In this case, the standard method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is also used.

Cuttings of roses in summer

In summer, roses actively grow shoots, and at this time you can use the second method of propagation - green cuttings. They are cut from May to July, but it is better in the budding phase (3).

The stem to be taken from cuttings must be strong and fully green. The cuttings are cut about 10 cm long, but it is important that they have 2-3 buds. The top cut is made directly above the kidney. The lower one is oblique, just below the kidney. The lower leaves should be removed, leaving a couple of the top ones. And cut them so that out of 3 - 5 plates only two remain. nine0005

Before planting, the cuttings should be soaked in a Heteroauxin solution for 12 hours to stimulate root formation.

Prepared cuttings are planted in a school - a secluded quiet place with fertile soil, deepening by 1.5 - 2 cm. Water well and cover with foil. Roses are photophilous plants, however, under the scorching rays of the sun, the cuttings begin to evaporate moisture too actively and dry out rather than give roots. Therefore, the shkolka should be done either under the light shade of trees, or the cuttings should be shaded with coniferous branches or burlap. nine0005

Planted cuttings should be watered frequently - the soil should be moist all the time. And in hot weather, it is useful to rinse the film with cold water.

Roots of green rose cuttings usually form after 3-4 weeks - new leaves speak for this. After that, the film must be gradually opened so that the plants get used to the open air - first for a couple of hours in the morning, then longer and longer. After 2 weeks, the film is removed completely.

In the future, young roses should be constantly watered, and carefully covered for the winter. In the spring they can be planted with a clod of earth in permanent places. nine0005

Potato rose cuttings

Both green and semi-woody cuttings can be rooted in this way. They are prepared in a standard way, but before planting they are stuck into potatoes, and only then, together with the tuber, they are planted in a school in the garden.

Why do they do it? And in order for the cuttings not to dry out, if it is not possible to water them often, this method is useful for weekend summer residents. Juicy potatoes. The moisture in it remains for a very long time, and even if the soil is dry, the cutting will not die. nine0005

Rose cuttings using the burrito method

This method of rooting cuttings is becoming more popular year by year. And it got its name from the Mexican analogue of shawarma - burrito. And you will understand why.

The point is this. The lower cut, as with traditional cuttings, is dusted with a root formation stimulator. Then several pieces of cuttings (usually 5-10 are recommended) are wrapped in 2-3 layers of newspaper or paper towels, moistened with water so that the paper is moist, but not wet, and then loosely (it is important that air penetrated inside) wrapped in polyethylene. It turns out a kind of bundle, similar to the same shawarma burrito. It is cleaned in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 14 - 18 ° C. nine0005

This is important! If the temperature is lower, the roots will not form. And if it is higher, the cuttings will either dry out (even constant moisture often does not save), or they will become moldy and begin to rot.

As a rule, the callus on the cuttings is formed after 3 weeks. If this does not happen, the cuttings are again wrapped in paper (if it has dried up, it must be moistened again) and the film and again sent to a dark, cool place.

When the callus is formed, the cuttings are planted one at a time in pots in light nutrient soil (traditional rooting mixtures are suitable) so that only 1 bud is above the soil surface, watered and covered with a jar or bag. And now they need to be placed in a bright (but not under direct sunlight) and warm place - the temperature should be 23 - 25 ° C. nine0005

The burrito method has been shown to give a higher percentage of rooting. And even varieties of roses that are difficult to propagate by cuttings, with this method, give roots much more readily.

Popular Questions and Answers

We talked about the propagation of roses by cuttings with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

Can all varieties of roses be propagated from cuttings?

Easily rooted cuttings of polyanthus (Border King, Paul Crampel, Holsiein), climbing (Bobbie James, Snow goose, Polka) and floribunda (Apricola, Edelweiss, Tequila) roses. Hybrid teas take root worse and give a weak root system. Roses with yellow flowers take root poorly (Papillon, Golden Tower, Yokey Dokey). nine0005

When to prune roses grown from cuttings?

They do not need to be trimmed in the first year of planting. The first pruning can be done next spring, cutting out dry and frozen branches. A cardinal pruning is best done from 3 years.

Which roses are better: grafted or own-rooted?

Both have their pros and cons. Own-rooted ones do not give wild shoots, however, their root systems are weaker and may suffer in a frosty snowless winter.

Roses grafted onto wild roses winter better, their roots are strong, but wild shoots constantly grow from the stock, which must be removed. And often the vaccine is short-lived. nine0005

Sources

  1. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals permitted for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation https://mcx. gov.ru/ministry/departments/ departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii-khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/
  2. Kudryavets D.B., Petrenko N.A. How to grow flowers. A book for students // M .: Education, 1993 - 176 p.
  3. Group of authors ed. Milovidova I.B. Flowers around us, 2nd ed., add. // Saratov, Privolzhskoe book publishing house, 1986 - 160 p.

How to properly cut roses: terms, temperature and survival secrets

Cutting roses is one of the simplest and definitely the most budgetary way to propagate the queen of flowers. If you have never done this, it's time to try your hand at such an exciting business.

You can cut roses at different times of the year. Today we will dwell in detail on the summer cuttings of roses. nine0005

When to cut roses

Cuttings of roses can be done at different times:

Which roses can be cut from cuttings

Not all types of garden roses can be propagated by cuttings. Cuttings of polyanthus, miniature, ground cover, semi-climbing, climbing roses from the rambler group and many varieties of floribunda roses take root best of all. nine0005

But the hybrid tea is rarely propagated by cuttings: at first they take root well, but then, due to the weak formation of the root system, they begin to develop very slowly. For this reason, hybrid tea roses are best grafted rather than cuttings.

Best conditions for rose cuttings

In order for rose cuttings to root faster, optimal conditions must be created for them:

How to take cuttings of roses: step by step instructions

We will tell you how to properly carry out cuttings of roses growing in the open field in summer.

1. Select a healthy bush with no signs of disease or insect damage, and with colored buds. nine0005

2. For grafting, use one-year semi-lignified pencil-thick shoots (0.5-0.7 cm): too thin, and vice versa, old powerful shoots are not suitable. With a sharp disinfected knife or secateurs, cut a cutting with 3-5 developed buds from the middle part of the shoot. Make the lower cut of the cutting (cut under the kidney itself) at an angle of 45 °, and the upper one (place it at a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper kidney) at a right angle.

3. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting. Shorten the upper leaves to reduce evaporation of moisture by half. It is impossible to completely remove leaf blades, because. without them, the process of photosynthesis, the basis of plant nutrition, is impossible.

4. If you want your cuttings to grow roots faster, help them by treating the shoots with a root stimulator. When cutting roses, Kornerost-M showed itself well. This root growth regulator not only accelerates the formation of a root system in cuttings, but also has a positive effect on their survival in the future. The composition of the drug includes chitosan, which protects young roots from root rot. nine0005

Moisten the bottom section of the cutting before planting and dip it into the preparation bag. Excess powder can be shaken off - in this way, a sufficient amount of the drug (0.1-0.2 g) will remain on the cutting cut to help the plant.

5. Prepare containers and soil for planting. Mix sand with turf and leaf soil in a ratio of 2:2:1 and pour it into a prepared container with a layer of 5-8 cm. Place a 3-4 cm thick layer of coarse sand or a mixture of peat or vermiculite with sand (1:1) on it . Disinfect the finished substrate by spilling it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. nine0005

6. Plant the cuttings treated with Kornerost-M in the prepared substrate, positioning them at an angle, and pour abundantly: water should pass through the entire earthen clod. Please note that the planting depth must not exceed 2 cm.

7. Place a glass jar or clear plastic bottle over each cutting. Thanks to them, mini-greenhouses with high temperature and humidity will be obtained - the conditions necessary for the rapid rooting and survival of the cuttings. nine0005

8. Place the container in the garden in a slightly shaded area. You can make a small recess for it: this way the moisture in the pot will last longer and you can not be afraid that the wind will knock over the container. Constantly check the moisture content of the substrate: it should not dry out, however, there should not be excess liquid there. Excessive moisture will cause the cuttings to turn black and die.

9. When the cuttings begin to develop roots and leaves, the protective cover can be removed. nine0005

Care of rose cuttings after rooting

What is the further care of cuttings? In addition to regular moistening, the cuttings need to be constantly ventilated. To do this, remove the cap from the bottle daily for a while so that fresh air can get inside the shelter, or, if the cuttings are covered with glass jars, lift the jar.

For the winter, containers with rooted cuttings are left in the same place, in the garden, without removing the protective cover. For additional protection, arcs are installed above them, on which a film or any covering material is thrown. This is especially important in regions with cold winters. nine0005

Some growers take containers of cuttings to the basement. During such wintering, it is necessary to monitor the substrate and occasionally water it to prevent the soil from drying out.

In spring, the cover is removed from the arches immediately after the arrival of heat, so that the cuttings do not overripe.

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