Steps to painting interior walls
How to Paint a Room: 10 Steps to Painting Walls Like a DIY Pro
AD It Yourself
Learn how to paint a room in your home or apartment with these easy DIY steps and brighten up any space in no time
By Lindsey Mather and Elizabeth Stamp
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Learning how to paint a room properly is essential for beginning DIY’ers, new homeowners, and veteran home improvement experts alike. After all, it’s pretty painless, relatively inexpensive, and—should something go horribly wrong—easy to fix. But before you grab your roller and get started with your first coat, it’s essential to have a plan of attack. So we asked a handful of experts for their best painting tips and tricks to get you started. Read on to learn how to paint a room and see step-by-step what you’ll need to do to make sure your project is a success.
While San Francisco based designer Nicole Hollis may have turned heads for painting the exterior of her home jet black, we're prone to the moody blue she chose from Farrow & Ball for the bar.Douglas Friedman
1. Plan your approach
Start by thinking about how you want the finished project to look and remember that you’re not limited to four walls or an entire room in the same color. Consider painting an accent wall in a bold hue or highlighting moldings in a contrasting shade or finish. And don’t forget to look up and see whether the ceiling could use a refresh as well.
Alexander Gorlin used Parma Gray by Farrow & Ball on an accent wall in a New York apartment.
2. Choose your color
Browsing through fan decks and paint chips can be overwhelming. Start by figuring out the general color characteristics: Do you want a warm or cool shade? Neutral or saturated? If you have existing furniture or art, you’ll also want to consider how the shade will complement them. Once you have a sense of what you’re looking for, pick a few shades and get samples—lots of direct-to-consumer brands, like Backdrop and Clare, will send you adhesive swatches you can slap on the wall for a better sense of shade (and it’ll save you a trip to the store). Test the colors to see how they look in the room at different times of day.
Many paint companies also have tools on their websites that will let you upload a photo of your space and preview different colors on the walls. But colors can look different in real-world conditions, so you’ll still need to try it out in the space.
Test samples of your color choices in the room to see how they look in different lighting conditions.
Photo: Richard Drury/Getty Images
3. Pick out your tools and materials
Every project is unique and you may need different tools depending on the paint you choose and the condition of your walls, but there are a few must-haves:
- Paint
- Paint roller
- Paint roller extension pole
- Drop cloths
- Paintbrushes
- Paint tray
- Sandpaper
- Painter’s tape
- Rags
- Putty knife
Click here for a shopping list to order all the paint supplies you’ll need to get started—from sanding and priming to your very last touch-ups.
Gather all the essential tools before you start.
Photo: Anika Salsera/Getty Images
4. Determine how much paint you’ll need
Whether you’re painting a powder room or the exterior of your house, the general rule of thumb is one gallon per 400 square feet, says Carl Minchew, vice president of color innovation and design at Benjamin Moore. But that’s just a rough guideline: To get a more precise number, which you’ll definitely want for large projects, use a paint calculator like the ones provided by Benjamin Moore or Pratt & Lambert; they take into account window and door measurements. (And both assume two coats of paint per project.)
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Planning on whitewashing a charcoal gray wall? You’ll likely need additional paint when going from dark to light. On the other end of the spectrum, a deep color base tends to require more coats of paint than a lighter color, says Carolyn Noble, color marketing and design manager at Pratt & Lambert. She recommends applying a gray-tinted primer to the surface before you paint your walls a saturated color to help reduce the number of applications. When it comes to finish, you may have heard that the glossier it is, the higher the coverage rate, but it’s not enough of a difference to change the number of gallons you need to buy, Minchew says.
If you’re painting a highly textured surface rather than a smooth one, buy a little extra, says Julianne Simcox, Pratt & Lambert associate brand manager. Cabinets with complicated millwork require more paint, too; Minchew suggests purchasing about 10% more than calculated.
Calculate the correct amount of paint you’ll need to spare yourself trips back to the store and wasted paint.
Photo: Daniel Acker/Bloomberg/Getty Images
5. Prep the walls and the room
You don’t want to damage your favorite sofa or that heirloom Grandma gave you, so empty the room of all the furniture. If you don’t have enough space to relocate everything you own, push it all to the center of the room. Cover the pieces with a drop cloth or lightweight plastic sheeting and do the same with the floor, as well as any cabinetry or countertops that might be in danger of excess splatter. “Don’t skip the drop cloth—paint will splatter, we promise,” say New Jersey contractors—and cousins—John Colaneri and Anthony Carrino, the stars of the HGTV series Cousins Undercover and Kitchen Cousins as well as The Build Up and Grand Design on Ellen DeGeneres’s Ellentube.
Grab a roll of painter’s tape—the cousins recommend FrogTape—and firmly apply it to the edges of the room’s corners, base and crown moldings, and door and window casings, using a putty knife to seal if needed. “Getting a good seal so paint doesn’t get under the tape is everything, plus it will pull away clean after everything is dry,” Colaneri and Carrino say. If you dare (or have an artist’s steady hand), you can skip taping entirely. Remove light switch and outlet covers and apply painter’s tape to protect outlets and switches from paint drips. Before you get started, make sure you know how to repair drywall so you can clean up any nicks in the walls.
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Protect floors and furniture with drop cloths.
Photo: Patti McConville/Getty Images
6. Mix your paint
Use a wooden paint stick to stir the paint, and re-stir often throughout the project. Paint that isn’t stirred consistently can lead to the ingredients separating and you’ll risk compromising the true color you’re going for. If you’re using more than one gallon of paint, combine the cans in a large bucket in case there is a slight variation in color.
Mix your paint early and often.
Photo: Tetra Images/Getty Images
7. Pick your painting techniques
Your paint is mixed and your roller is at the ready, but make sure to plan a strategy before you get started. Work from the top of the room down, starting with the ceilings. Planning a bold focal wall? Paint the adjoining light-colored walls first. “Don’t worry if you get paint on what will be your accent wall—the dark paint will cover up whatever lighter paint found its way there. After the lighter wall dries, tape off that edge so the dark color doesn’t bleed onto your new paint,” Colaneri and Carrino advise. If you’re covering up dark walls with a brighter hue, plan on three coats: your primer, plus two coats of the new color to ensure nothing shows through.
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Tackle one wall at a time. Take a brush and “cut in”—paint along the molding and the corners from top to bottom—while your painting companion uses a roller to cover the main expanse of the wall, staying away from those more precise spots. When applying paint with the roller, use long strokes in a W pattern for ample coverage (and to avoid those pesky roller marks). Once the wall is dry to the touch, it’s ready for a second coat.
If you are painting the trim, remove the painter’s tape and wait for the walls to dry before applying tape to the walls. Start with the trim closest to the ceiling, move on to door and window frames, and, finally, the baseboards.
Start by cutting in near moldings and corners with a brush.
Photo: Banks Photos/Getty Images
8. Don’t forget ventilation
Watching paint dry is no fun. Make sure your space is well ventilated throughout the project by opening windows and using fans. “Keeping the room warm and a fan blowing definitely helps speed up the drying process,” the cousins say. “If it’s a damp day, it will take much longer for the paint to dry.”
Open a window or use a fan for ventilation.
Photo: Stephen Simpson/Getty Images
9. Clean up
You’ve done multiple coats, but it’s not time to relax just yet. Remove all the painter’s tape and gather drop cloths, making sure any spills or splatters are dry before you move them. For latex- and water-based paints, clean brushes with soapy water, though oil-based paints will require mineral spirits. You can use a painter’s brush to clean and reshape bristles. If you want to reuse roller covers, use the curved edge of a 5-in-1 tool to remove the excess paint under running water (they’re also useful for opening a paint can, removing nails, and scraping).
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Clean brushes with soap and water if you used latex- or water-based paints.
Photo: Ableimages/David Harrigan/Getty Images
10. Give yourself enough time
The amount of time your project will take depends on the size of your room, how you’re painting, and your skill level. For instance, using a dark shade on the walls and painting the ceiling and trim will take longer than just doing the walls in a neutral color. While some spaces can be done in a few hours, others may take several days. Be sure to budget more time than you think the job will need and don’t forget to take prep and cleanup into account.
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Painting a wall is one of the easiest and most affordable ways of updating any room. And you don't have to get professionals in to do an aesthetically pleasing job of it.
But, before you start to paint a room, it is a good idea to learn a few tips from top experts on how to paint a wall like a pro before you start.
After all, you're going to be looking at those walls for a long while to come. We've consulted experts from the likes of Benjamin Moore, Lick and Dulux for their insight into how to paint a wall to perfection – so that you can bring your paint ideas to life yourself.
How to paint a wall
Here, we tackle the basics of painting a wall – using the expert tips we've added will ensure you get a professional finish.
1. Measure your room and determine how much paint you need
If you've been browsing living room paint ideas and are wondering whether you could work the transformation yourself – and how much it costs to paint a room – the first thing to get to grips with is paint quantities.
'There is no "average room", so it’s important to roughly work out how much paint you will need to avoid buying too much,' says Helen Shaw, Director at Benjamin Moore . 'As a guide, it’s key to bear in mind that most paints will cover about 10-12sq m per litre. '
She continues: 'Firstly, we recommend starting by measuring or estimating the length of the room. A loose and easy guide for this is step it out – one step for an adult is about 1m, so start by standing against one wall and pacing out to the opposite wall. You can then do the same to estimate the width. Then add two times the length and two times the width together to get the perimeter.
'Most rooms have a standard 2.5m high ceiling, so if you simply multiply the perimeter by 2.5, you will have the total in meters squared. Although we would recommend that if you have particularly tall ceilings, it’s best to measure this rather than use the 2.5m estimate. If you have large windows or many doors or built-in cabinets, you can deduct this from the total to avoid buying too much. Finally, double the overall meter square total to account for doing two coats.'
2. Choose your color and get the right finish
Whether you're looking for organic, neutral or bold, statement living room color schemes, picking up a selection of sample pots is always a good idea to see how the hue reacts to the light in your space.
And don't forget the finish. 'The right paint finish for different surfaces and specific results is the key to a perfect result,' say the experts at Dulux . 'For example, mid-sheen and gloss finishes reflect light, while kitchen and bathrooms require moisture and stain-resistant qualities.'
3. Buy the right tools
When painting a wall, there's nothing worse than realizing too late that you haven't got all the tools and materials you'll need to do the job properly. You will need: a pot of paint; a paint brush and paint roller; primer; soap and water for cleaning; a painting tray; a dust sheet; painter's masking tape; and, if you have high ceilings, a roller extension pole is a good idea.
Benjamin Moore's Helen Shaw says: 'When it comes to the must-have tools, a firm favorite amongst consumers is to use a roller for painting walls and a 2in brush for cutting in around the edges. To ensure a smooth finish, a microfiber roller sleeve is best.'
4. Paint in natural light
For best results, always paint in natural, not artificial or low, light.
A Dulux expert advises: 'Whether you're rushing to get the job done just as the sun goes down or it’s dark and stormy outside, it’s always better to wait for bright, natural light to paint your rooms. Painting in dim or harsh artificial lighting can easily result in patches and imperfections that only show up in glaring natural light.'
5. Clear the area
Now you've got the right amount of paint in the correct finish and color of choice, you're ready to take the next step in painting a wall.
'Start by clearing your working area to give yourself ample painting space,' says Lick’ s Interior Design and Colour Psychologist, Natasha Bradley. 'Put away your favorite furniture items and anything you don’t want to get splatters or splodges on.
'Put a protective dust sheet down to save your flooring and any furniture that’s too heavy to move. Newspapers and bedsheets won’t be sufficient here, but either a canvas or a plastic drop sheet should work equally well.'
Helen Shaw, UK Director of Benjamin Moore adds: 'Before you jump in with your paint brush, make sure the space around you is prepped and cleared – you don’t want to be spilling paint over your new sofa! If there’s not enough space to clear the room entirely, push everything to the centre of the room and cover, don’t forget to also cover the flooring.'
6. Prep your walls
'Once everything is cleared and covered, you can then make a start on preparing the walls for painting,' says Helen Shaw. 'A key factor in ensuring you have a smooth finish is having a clean surface to paint on, dust, cobwebs or grime can stop your paint adhering and having the perfect finish. Most walls can be washed with a soft sponge and warm water, but if you’re painting in the kitchen then you’ll need something to help cut through the grease before rinsing with warm water.'
Speaking to H&G, a Dulux expert says: 'It’s very tempting to skip this crucial first step, whether it’s to save time or because you think your walls look fine to paint over. But, it’s often hard to see dirt, dust, scratches and cracks, until they rear their ugly heads through your new paint. Before you do anything, give your walls a good clean with warm, soapy water, fix any cracks or holes with filler and wait until the surface is totally dry before painting.'
Be ultra-vigilant about this step, says Lick's Natasha Bradley. 'Examine your wall for any flakey areas or little bumps. Use filler and sealant to fill up any cracks or holes or a scraper to even bumps and flaking paint. Don’t skip this step if you want to achieve a smooth and professional finish.
'Next, get your painting surface ready. Clean your walls thoroughly but gently using a soap and water mixture. Wipe clean and leave to dry.'
7. Apply your painter's tape
Once the surfaces are dry, use painter’s masking tape or good, old-fashioned masking tape to cover any sockets, switches and skirting boards in the area.
Helen Shaw says: 'You’ll need a roll or two of painter’s tape to protect any mouldings or switches from any drips and ensure a neat finish. Make sure you apply the tape carefully to get a good seal to avoid paint getting underneath and running.'
8. Time to prime
Using a primer will ensure a more professional finish and help you get the most from your paint color. 'Apply a smooth and even base coat of primer using a roller,' says Lick's Natasha Bradley. 'Work into smaller crevices using the tip of your paintbrush. Leave to dry for a few hours before starting to paint.'
She adds: 'Avoid the temptation to skip the priming stage if you want a vivid and consistent finish, especially if you’re painting over a darker color. '
9. Stir and decant your paint
After opening a paint can, stir the paint thoroughly for an even texture, before pouring some into your painting tray.
A Dulux expert says: 'As colors can vary slightly from can to can, it pays to decant paint into a smaller container or tray to mix it before you start painting. In terms of how to decorate while making the least amount of mess, this tip might just save your sanity. Imagine accidentally knocking over a 10 liter can of paint?'
Kathryn Lloyd, of Crown Studio , offers her top tip: 'Pour the paint into the roller tray and, for ease, you can use some aluminium foil within the tray to save you cleaning it out afterwards. Once you’ve finished with the paint you need, pour the residual paint back into the can and you can dispose of the foil without using tons of water.'
10. Cut in the edges
Before you start painting the walls, cut in the edges with a one or two-inch brush. This means first painting the areas that are too tight for rollers, like the ceiling line, corners and trim.
Benjamin Moore's Helen Shaw advises: 'To cut in with ease, a low-tack tape around the ceiling edges or skirting will help to get a sharp line and a clean finish. Gently remove the tape when the paint is still wet to ensure there is no bleed through or peeling.'
Kathryn Lloyd's top tips on cutting in while painting a wall? 'Apply some paint onto the brush, providing any excess has been removed to guarantee you have control when using the brush and keep the paint looking neat along the edges.
'With your paint brush in hand, start a little bit away from the edge of the wall, so that you have the right amount left on the brush to create a very sharp edge so that it’s nice and neat. Repeat this for the top, bottom and sides of the wall.'
From preparation to painting, work from the top of your room down, for best results. Start with the ceiling and the architrave. Then, paint your walls from the top down with your roller. Finish the job with woodwork and skirting.
12.
Use this painting technique for best coverage'If you’re flinging your roller around, you might not achieve the best coverage,' say the experts at Dulux. 'Instead, apply your paint in a W shape on the wall. Go over the W with an M shape to fill in the gaps, then reload your roller and move onto the next section in the same way.'
Lick's Natasha Bradley agrees this is a good technique for painting a wall, saying: 'Dip your roller into the paint tray and start to paint your wall in W or M motions for even distribution.'
13. Apply another coat of paint
Leave the first coat to dry for a couple of hours before you apply another coat.
'Most walls shouldn’t require more than two coats of paint,' says Natasha Bradley. 'Remove the painter's tape from the wall whilst the second coat is still drying.'
14. Don't forget ventilation
To make the experience more pleasant for you, open the windows and let some air in.
Natasha Bradley advises this will also quicken up the wait: 'Keep your work area well-ventilated to minimize drying time. '
15. Clean up ready for the big reveal
Leave to dry for at least 24 hours and remove your dust sheets to reveal your brand new wall. Keep your brushes in good condition by cleaning them before you put them away. If you've used a water-based paint, a clean with soap and water will suffice.
Keep the colors you’ve used so you can touch up paint on walls as necessary and make sure to dispose of paint safely when you do finally come to changing to a different wall color.
Now it's time to step back, admire your own handiwork, and give yourself a well-deserved pat on the back.
Ruth Doherty is an experienced digital writer and editor specializing in interiors, travel and lifestyle. With 20 years of writing for national sites under her belt, she’s worked for the likes of Livingetc.com, Standard, Ideal Home, Stylist and Marie Claire as well as Homes & Gardens.
Wall treatment before painting: how to prepare the surface well
The performance and decorative characteristics of the paint largely depend on how you have prepared the surface. Errors in repair, negligence and neglect of professional recommendations will lead to the fact that the paintwork material will lie unevenly, peel off, and all wall defects will become noticeable. To prevent this from happening, read how to properly prepare the walls before painting.
Treatment of concrete walls for painting
We give an example of the most common base for paint - concrete. Its processing includes all the main stages of finishing and gives a complete picture of the amount of work to be done. Let's go over the process step by step.
Stage 1. Leveling the walls
In front of you is a base cleared of old plaster. If in some places it was not possible to remove it, tap on it with a hammer. If the sound is muffled, as if you are beating a drum, a cavity has formed under the material. Break the place to re-process, otherwise, over time, the surface will deform and cracks will appear.
Evaluate the evenness of the walls. For this, a visual inspection is not enough. The fastest way is to use a laser level. If this is not possible, you have two options for :
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Walk along the wall with a rule or rail.
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Hang plumb lines along the edges of the wall. Between them, stretch a horizontal thread, securing it so that it can be freely moved up and down.
Both methods allow you to identify recesses and protruding places on the wall. Immediately mark them with a pencil or stick masking tape over them. You will plaster the pits, and the bumps need to be cut off with a perforator.
Now you need to select alignment method . You have three alternatives:
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Grinding is used for all grades of concrete, including those with the addition of marble chips. This is a noisy and dusty process that requires a concrete grinder. The equipment is expensive. It can be rented, but it is better to hire a specialist to work in order to save time and effort, and be calm about the quality of the repair.
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With the help of plaster it is possible to eliminate cracks and holes, as well as to stretch the walls, making them even. Gypsum mixture is used for internal lining. We will not go into details of the work, because its volume depends on the curvature of the base. We list only the sequence of actions: primer, installation of beacons, plaster (if necessary, twice), re-primer.
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If the walls are very uneven, they can be sheathing with drywall . To do this, the base is treated with an antiseptic, then a frame is made of profiles and sheets are fixed on them. The work is laborious, but the surface will become perfectly flat. It remains only to putty. When choosing this leveling method, keep in mind that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will decrease by 3-4 cm on each side.
Aligned walls are primed with a roller or sprayer. The primer enhances surface adhesion and prevents shedding and cracking of finishing materials. Before starting the next work, at least 5 hours must pass so that the base is completely dry.
Stage 2. Starting putty
Plaster and drywall are not suitable for painting. The first is too porous and grainy: the paint will be unevenly distributed. The second absorbs paints and varnishes, which leads to a change in the saturation of the shade and reduces the durability of the coating.
In order for the paint to lay down evenly, the base is puttied. They do this twice. In this section, we will talk about starting putty. Its structure is finer than that of plaster, but larger than that of the finishing mixture. With its help, slight deviations of the wall from the level are leveled and cracks are closed.
To work, you will need two spatulas: wide (from 40 cm) and narrow (up to 20 cm). With small tools, you apply the mixture to a wide area along the entire length. Large distribute it on the wall. Do not try to make the starting coat perfectly smooth by reducing the edges of the layers. At this stage, these actions are inappropriate, you will waste your time. The main thing is to evenly putty the wall, leaving no gaps, and fill in the bumps.
Cracks, external corners and joints of walls with door and window openings can be reinforced with a reinforcing mesh (serpyanka). It enhances the strength of the coating, prevents shrinkage of materials due to temperature changes, aligns corners and joints. To use it, apply a thin layer of putty and glue the sickle vertically. If you need several strips, they are overlapped. Now move on to the main puttying.
Corner shaping tape will help to give a neat, regular shape to the inner corners. It is fixed in the same way as sickle, on a small layer of putty, then the transition between the tape and the wall is eliminated, then the walls are puttied in the usual way.
Wait for the finish to dry - at least 6 hours - and sand the surface. Use a 120 grit sanding sponge or mesh. This will remove imperfections and small bumps. But it is still impossible to paint the wall: it has a coarse-grained texture, and the paint will fall poorly.
Stage 3. Finishing putty
In order for the paint mixtures to lay down in a uniform layer and not change the shade, a finishing putty is used. Its composition is devoid of large particles, so the coating is smooth. In addition, it prevents paint from seeping into the inner layers of the finish, which reduces the consumption of materials and prevents discoloration.
The process is similar to the previous one, just try to distribute the mixture with a layer of no more than 2 mm, otherwise it will crack. At the end of the work, sand the wall with a grid with a mesh size of 60-80. Do not overdo it so as not to chop off the entire finish coat.
The quality of the final finish is checked with a lamp. Point it at an angle to the wall and inspect the surface. Even tiny bumps give a shadow. Sand them down.
Stage 4. Final primer
After the putty has completely dried, clean the walls of dust with a dry cloth or vacuum cleaner and apply a primer. The solution will protect the finish from moisture and reduce the absorbency of the paint. The coating will lie more evenly and last longer. If the room is humid, choose a mixture with antifungal additives to prevent mold from forming.
Preparing textured plaster and wallpaper for painting
In order for the paint to lie evenly and reduce its consumption, decorative plaster, fiberglass and non-woven wallpaper are primed before painting. This is not to say that these are mandatory manipulations, but if you want a quality repair, do not neglect them.
Wall surface requirements vary depending on the future decor. If you plan to use textured paint, they do not have to be completely even. The relief of the coating will hide minor defects. But if you want to apply a solid shade, draw a pattern using a stencil, decorate the walls yourself with a sponge or cloth, the surface must be flawless. Otherwise, all the flaws will be noticeable. Consider this nuance when processing walls before painting.
Painting walls and ceilings: paint application technology
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Painting the ceiling and walls is a fairly popular and relatively simple way to change the color palette of the interior and the visual perception of the room. Thanks to a wide selection of materials and tools, even novice painters can cope with this work. The main thing is to correctly choose the paint, the method of staining and adhere to the technological process.
- The choice of paint for painting walls and ceilings: characteristics and application features
- Water based paint
- Oil paints
- Decorative enamels
- Tools and supplies for painting ceilings and walls
- Surface preparation for painting
- Technology for painting walls and ceilings with water-based paint
- Ceiling painting
- Wall painting
Choice of paint for walls and ceilings: characteristics and application features
Modern paint for walls and ceilings expands the possibilities of designers to create unusual design projects that are not available with other finishing materials. Painting in the interior has significant advantages:
- Practicality in terms of cleanliness and hygiene - many paints tolerate wet cleaning well.
- The ability to update the interior of the room without capital investments - the previous layer of paintwork materials is a good basis for repainting.
- A rich color palette of paints contributes to the creation of exclusive interior solutions of any style.
A beautiful surface finish can be obtained by using good quality paint materials. Therefore, the issue of choosing a paint should be approached with particular scrupulousness and responsibility.
Wall and ceiling painting: photos of interiors.
Water-based paint
Water-based paint has gained particular popularity when painting indoor walls and ceilings. This is due to many advantages of a water-dispersion emulsion:
- the paint adheres tightly to the treated surface and practically does not peel off;
- dries very quickly - a couple of hours is enough;
- alkali resistance;
- coating does not flake off;
- paint is safe for human health and the environment - after painting it is not necessary to leave the room;
- there is no specific smell characteristic of other coatings;
- coating retains a good appearance for 5-15 years;
- the coloring composition can be given any color by adding special colors in different proportions - you can get the desired shade yourself or manually.
Among the disadvantages of water-based paints is the need to paint at a temperature of at least +5°C.
Depending on the type of polymer that is part of the emulsion, there are several main types of water-based paints.
Acrylic paints contain special acrylic resins. Emulsions of this type are suitable for painting most types of surfaces. The main advantages of acrylic paints:
- water resistance and moisture repellency;
- strength and resistance to mechanical stress;
- high elasticity;
- creates a dirt-repellent coating that is easy to maintain.
Latex Paints is a type of acrylic emulsion with the addition of latex. This group is the most expensive, but has some additional advantages:
- the painted surface is very even;
- paint actively resists water - the painted coating perfectly tolerates wet cleaning;
- applying a double layer will mask cracks with a thickness of about 1 mm;
- wide scope - painting of different surfaces: wood, concrete, brick, glass, plaster, metal, pre-primed;
- high resistance to mechanical damage, abrasion.
Despite the listed advantages, latex paints also have disadvantages:
- fear of UV rays and exposure to low temperatures;
- susceptibility to bacteria and fungi;
- high cost.
Silicone paints contain silicone resins. Such emulsions are often used to finish the ceiling. Silicone coating allows air and steam to pass through, and repels water. Thanks to these qualities, the paint has become widespread in the decoration of kitchens, bathrooms and swimming pools. An additional plus is antibacterial qualities. Enamel protects the surface from fungus, mold and dirt.
Application of silicone paint is possible on the base surface - without prior priming on the old paint. With the help of silicone staining, cracks up to 2 mm in size can be hidden. Perhaps the only drawback of such paints is the high cost.
Silicate water-based paints are a mixture of water, colored pigments and sodium silicate (water glass). Silicate emulsions are affordable, strong enough and ideal for painting plastered and concrete surfaces. However, such paint cannot be used for processing glass, metal, stone, ceramics.
Silicate emulsions tolerate temperature fluctuations well, allow air and steam to pass through. A significant drawback is poor moisture resistance and fear of precipitation. Scope of application - interior finishing works of "dry" premises.
Mineral Water Based Paints contain slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) or cement. The main purpose is painting work with brick and concrete surfaces. Although they can be used for painting other surfaces. Mineral VE paints are short-lived, therefore they are mainly used for facade decoration. As a result of staining, a vapor-permeable coating is formed that is resistant to temperature extremes.
Oil and enamel coatings
Oil paint is a mixture of a binder dissolved in a thinner with the addition of colored pigments. Such coatings dry for a long time and have a pungent odor, and are produced in ready-made pasty form. Oil paints are used in any premises. The coating is not afraid of moisture, leaks and dampness. After staining, a glossy surface is formed, which, when touched, gives off cold. Undoubted advantages are low cost and simple application technology.
Oil paints are not recommended for ceilings, as the paint may turn yellow after a year. In addition, the "oil" coating does not allow air to pass through.
Important! Experienced painters recommend using linseed oil-based compositions for painting walls. The remaining compositions are undesirable for use in interior decoration.
Enamel paints are obtained by mixing varnishes and dry pigments. After hardening, such paints create a matte or glossy film on the surface. The enamel coating is dense, hard and durable.
Enamel paints are divided into two main groups:
- PF enamel - alkyd pentaphthalic enamel. The material is suitable for painting walls and ceilings in wet areas.
- NC-enamel - nitro-enamel diluted with cellulose ether varnish. Used for finishing wooden surfaces.
Decorative emulsions
Decorative paints have recently appeared on the construction market. Painting walls and ceilings with such emulsions allows you to imitate different surfaces and create unusual design effects. A coating is formed, in appearance resembling stone, velvet, gold, silver, silk, and so on. There are chameleon paints that change color with different lighting angles.
As a rule, decorative paints are water-based with various mineral and polymer additives. In addition to high aesthetic qualities, there are other advantages of such a coating:
- abrasion resistance;
- wear resistance;
- environmental friendliness and safety for human health - the emulsion is approved for use in any residential premises;
- dust does not settle on the surface.
To achieve the intended effect, painters use different tools and techniques.
Tools and materials for painting ceilings and walls
The list of tools depends on the chosen method of painting. Painting walls and ceilings can be done with a spray gun, roller and brush.
Spray guns are used when painting with water-based paints. This method significantly reduces the staining period, a coating is formed without streaks and streaks. The use of an airbrush is especially important when painting uneven surfaces, for example: baguettes, skirting boards, corner joints, etc.
Spray guns for painting walls and ceilings are divided into three types: electric, pneumatic and manual.
Electric spray guns provide two ways to spray: low pressure spray or airless spray. Such equipment is convenient to use when performing high-altitude work. The main disadvantage is the need to dilute the acrylic emulsion with water. This forces multiple layers of paint to be applied to the surface.
Hand spray guns allow painting up to 200-250 sq. m. per hour of work. They are easy to maintain and have a low cost. Design flaws - coarse grain of the painted surface.
Pneumatic spray guns spray by supplying compressed air at high pressure. Productivity of the device - 400 sq.m.
Important! Pneumatic spray guns are best suited for painting ceilings and walls
In everyday life, rollers are most often used for painting. The quality of the finished finish largely depends on the correct choice of this tool.
Tips for choosing a paint roller:
- to create a rough surface, a model with a long pile is suitable, for a smooth coating - with a short pile;
- it is better not to use foam rollers or velor tools - they leave air bubbles on the surface, and the material is not used rationally;
- for applying glossy paint, a roller with a pile is suitable - up to 4 mm, for matte paint - 4-8 mm, for a textured surface - more than 8 mm;
- the optimal length of the working part of the roller is 150-200 mm.
In places where it is inconvenient to paint with a roller, it is necessary to use a flat brush 3-7 cm wide.
In addition to the above tools, you will need:
Surface preparation for painting
The main task of the preparatory phase is to thoroughly clean the surface and ensure good adhesion of the paint to the substrate.
Preparation:
- Remove all old finishing materials from the surface. If the plaster applied to the ceiling/wall is severely flawed, cleaning must be carried out down to the base.
- Check the base for defects - bumps, chips, notches and cracks. Remove the bumps with sandpaper or a spatula, putty the remaining defects (if they are not significant) with a finishing material.
- Expand large cracks and fill with putty. Holes in the ceiling can be filled with foam or use reinforcing tape.
- Leave the putty mortar to dry completely (approx. 24 hours).
- Clean the places treated with putty with sandpaper and remove dust with a brush.
- Prime the ceiling and walls before painting. Painters recommend using a deep penetration primer - this composition forms a protective film that provides good adhesion and reduces paint consumption.
Technology for painting walls and ceilings with water-based paint
After opening the container with paint, it must be thoroughly mixed with smooth circular movements. Dilute the dye with water (add about 10%). If it is necessary to change the shade of the paint, then the selected pigment is introduced into the base gradually. After each addition, the emulsion is thoroughly mixed and tested on a small area of the wall.
Painting the ceiling
Sequence of painting the ceiling with a roller:
- Prepare the walls for painting the ceiling - close the corner joints with masking tape, hang vertical surfaces with plastic wrap.
- Pour part of the paint into a paint tray with a squeezing mesh.
- Dip the roller in paint, roll it out on the ribbed surface of the tray.
- Apply the paint in strips 50 cm wide overlapping each other.
Rules for applying paint by roller:
- painting starts from the corner farthest from the front door;
- paint should be applied across the primer coat;
- is usually applied at least 2 coats of paint;
- do not use the same roller for painting as for the primer;
- in exceptions, when the paint is applied in one layer, it must be rolled out along the room - perpendicular to the wall on which the window is located.
Important! When working with VE paint, it is not necessary to wait for the previous layer to dry. You can immediately apply the next one. This technique is called "wet".
Features of painting the ceiling with a spray gun:
- the optimal distance from the surface to be painted to the nozzle of the spray gun is 70 cm;
- during spraying, the spray gun must not be kept in one place - it is fraught with smudges;
- the atomizer must be moved continuously and smoothly.
Spray gun ceiling painting technology: video
Wall painting
Wall painting is done after ceiling painting. If the walls are painted in a different color, it is necessary to fix masking tape along the horizontal line bordering the ceiling dumbbells.
How to use:
- Mark the boundaries. Brush a strip 5 cm above the floor, under the ceiling plinth and in other places where a clear distinction is required.
- Apply paint with a roller. The movements of the roller are continuous, V-shaped, the direction is from top to bottom. With each movement of the roller cover a new surface.
- When there is no paint left on the roller, the painted area must be re-rolled to ensure even distribution of the dye without streaks.
Important! Cosmetic painting of walls and ceilings should be carried out during daylight hours so that defects and streaks can be immediately seen and eliminated.