Runner bean growing
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Runner beans are a delicious veg plot staple – they’re one of the easiest crops to grow and produce an abundance of long green pods over several months. Most varieties are climbers, grown up tall canes, producing large harvests in a small area. A few dwarf varieties are also available, ideal for large containers. Pick when young, for tasty stringless beans.
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Sow
Runner beans are tender plants that won’t survive frost, so for an early crop sow indoors in late spring. You can also sow outdoors in early summer. Alternatively, young plants can be bought from garden centres and online suppliers in spring, ready for planting outside.
Most runner beans are climbers – they need tall, sturdy supports and do best in the ground, but can also be grown in large containers. As they grow vertically, climbers produce a large crop in a small area of ground. There are also some dwarf varieties – these are quick to grow, but produce a smaller crop. They are useful for raised beds and containers, and for gardens in exposed sites. Climbing beans take longer to reach cropping stage, but produce beans over a longer period, from mid-summer to early autumn if picked regularly.
Runner beans are attractive as well as productive, with red, white or bi-coloured flowers, depending on the variety.
You’ll find a huge range of varieties available as seed in garden centres and online. Look in particular for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed well in trials – see our list of AGM fruit and veg.
Sow indoors
If you have space, start runner beans off indoors – on a sunny windowsill, in a propagator or in a greenhouse – from mid-April to May. This will give you an earlier crop. Choose pots 7–8cm (2.5–3in) wide and fill with moist multi-purpose compost. Sow one bean into the centre, 5cm (2in) deep, and water well.
Keep in a warm, bright place, at over 12°C (54°F). Seedlings will grow rapidly and need watering regularly.
The young plants can be transplanted outside once all risk of frost has passed, usually in late May/early June – see Plant outside, below.
Sow outdoors – in containers
You can sow seeds outdoors into pots of multi-purpose compost in spring – either into small pots for transplanting into the ground later, or into large containers as their final growing site.
Sow one bean per small pot, 5cm (2in) deep, and place in a coldframe or sheltered position. Once the plants reach 8cm (3in) tall, in June or July, plant them into their final positions – see Plant outside, below.
Alternatively, sow into large containers, positioned in a sheltered, sunny spot, as their final growing site. For dwarf beans the container should be 30–45cm (12–18in) wide, and for climbing beans 75cm (30in) wide and 45cm (18in) deep – a large tub or half-barrel is ideal.
Simply sow the seeds direct into the container, spacing them 15cm (6in) apart. Insert a wigwam of 1.8m (6ft) canes to support climbing varieties (see Grow below), and choose a heavy container to keep it from toppling over. Dwarf beans don’t usually need support and look great cascading over the sides.
Sow outdoors – in the ground
Runner beans thrive in rich, deep, fertile soil in full sun. If possible, it’s best to improve the soil with organic matter the autumn before sowing. Alternatively, it can be done a couple of weeks beforehand, to give time for the ground to settle. A pH of 6.5 (slightly acid) is preferable – add lime if your soil is more acidic.
Seeds need warm conditions to germinate, so wait until all risk of frost has passed and your soil has reached 12°C (54°F) – usually by mid-May in the south of the UK, and two weeks later in the north. If your soil is heavy and wet, it can be pre-warmed in early spring by covering it with clear plastic or cloches for about four weeks before sowing.
It’s also best to put the supports in place first – usually tall bamboo canes in a wigwam or double row (see Grow below).
Sow the large seeds individually 5cm (2in) deep – two at the base of each cane, which should be spaced 15cm (6in) apart. Thin to one seedling per cane, and protect plants from slugs and snails.
When sowing dwarf runner beans in the ground, allow 30cm (1ft) between plants and 50cm (20in) between rows.
If you sow one batch early (indoors in April/May), you can also sow a later batch outdoors in July, to prolong your harvests, allowing you to gather beans until the first frosts.
Plant outside
Wait until after the last frost before planting indoor-raised or bought young plants outside. Then harden them off to acclimatise them to outdoor conditions for a couple of weeks, either by putting them in a coldframe or placing them in a warm, sheltered spot, covered with fleece.
If planting in the ground, enrich the soil with well-rotted manure or garden compost – ideally at least two weeks before planting, to give the ground time to settle. Even better, do it the autumn before planting. When growing in rows, the traditional method for preparing the soil is to dig a bean trench:
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Mark out a line, then dig a trench 90cm (3ft) wide and 60cm (2ft) deep. Loosen the soil in the base by forking it over
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Scatter well-rotted manure or home-made garden compost in the base of the trench and mix with the soil from the trench. Return the improved soil to the trench
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Add pelleted poultry manure at the manufacturer’s recommended rate
With climbing beans, it’s also best to put the supports in place before planting – see Grow, below.
Once your bean plants are hardened off, plant them into their final growing position, in the ground or in a large container, in a sunny, sheltered spot. Water the plants well, both before and after planting.
Plant one climbing bean plant at the base of each cane, and loosely tie their stems to the canes to get them started. When planting dwarf beans, space them 30cm (1ft) apart.
If planting in a container, choose multi-purpose or loam-based compost. Containers should be at least 30–45cm (12–18in) wide for dwarf beans, and 75cm (30in) wide and 45cm (18in) deep for climbing beans.
Grow
Supporting runner beans
Runner beans need tall, sturdy supports to climb up. The traditional method is to grow them up a double row of bamboo canes (1.8m/6ft tall), with 45–60cm (18in–2ft) between the two rows. Space the canes 15cm (6in) apart within each row and slope them inwards, then tie near the top to a horizontal cane, to form a sturdy A-frame. If growing more than one double row, allow 1.5m (5ft) between them.
Alternatively, create an X-frame by sloping the canes at a sharper angle so they cross in the middle. Tie them at the centre, and add a horizontal cane to link them all together and increase stability. An X-frame takes up more space, but picking is easier and cropping is usually better.
If you don’t have room for a double row of canes, you can make wigwams. Again, use 1.8m (6ft) canes, four or five per wigwam, spacing them 15cm (6in) apart at the base. Tie the tops of the canes together – or use cane support rings or ceramic finials to hold the canes together. Wigwams make an attractive feature in a border or veg plot and also work well when growing in containers.
Loosely tie young plants to the canes to get them started – after that they will climb naturally. Remove the growing point once the plants reach the top of their support. This encourages side-shoots and prevents plants becoming top-heavy.
Another support option is to use 10cm (4in) polyethylene pea/bean netting, secured to tall posts or placed over a frame.
Dwarf beans don’t usually need support, although you can insert short twiggy sticks between them to keep them upright and lift the beans off the ground.
Watering and mulching
Runner beans are thirsty plants and crop best when watered regularly, especially once they start to flower and form pods. You will typically need to apply 5–9 litres (1–2 gallons) of water per square metre/yard every three to four days. Regular and generous watering is particularly important for plants growing in containers, which dry out more quickly.
Spread a thick mulch of well-rotted manure or mushroom compost over the soil in July to help hold in moisture.
Encouraging pods to form
Runner bean flowers sometimes fail to ‘set’ (produce pods) – there are several possible causes and solutions:
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Ensure the soil is constantly moist and doesn’t dry out. Add mulch after planting and water regularly and generously, ideally in the evenings.
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Flower set is better in alkaline, chalky soil. If your soil is neutral or acidic, try applying lime.
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If this is a recurring problem and you live in a mild area, try growing varieties with some French bean parentage, which set pods more easily in warmer summers. Examples include ‘Firestorm’ and ‘Moonlight’.
More on problems with runner bean flower set
Harvesting
Cropping starts around mid-summer, depending on the variety and when the seeds were sown, and continues for eight weeks or more if harvested regularly.Pick pods when young and tender, about 15–20cm (6–8in) long. The pods should snap easily and the beans inside should still be small and pale in colour.
Regular harvesting – ideally every two to three days – is essential to prevent any pods reaching maturity. Once this happens, plants will stop flowering and no more pods will form.
Recommended Varieties
Common problems
Runner beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. However, a few pests and diseases can be problematic, one of the most common being black bean aphids. Young plants also need protection from slugs and snails.
Occasionally, fungal or bacterial diseases such as rust or halo blight can develop, while in warm, dry conditions red spider mites may get established.
The southern green shield bug is a relatively new pest found on runner beans and – although only in certain locations at present – is more serious than our native shield bugs, which do negligible harm to runner beans.
Black bean aphid
Sap-sucking aphids will disfigure plants and cause stunting to leaves and stems.
Remedy
In the case of broad beans, pinch out infested tips. On other beans, catch populations when small and squash.
Slugs and snails
These feed on the young seedlings and you'll see the tell tale slime trail on the soil around your crop, as well as on the leaves.
Remedy
There are many ways to control slugs and snails, including beer traps, sawdust or eggshell barriers, copper tape and biocontrols.
No/ very few beans
This is one of the most common problems of bean growing and is usually caused by lack of moisture and/or poor pollination by insects.
Remedy
Plant or sow beans into soil that has had plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure added the previous autumn, as this will aid moisture and nutrient retention around the roots. Plant in a sheltered site as this will encourage bees to visit and pollinate the plants.
Rust
A common fungal disease of many plants that can be recognised by orange, yellow or black spots or blisters that form on leaves, along with pale and distorted stems. Leaves can fall and in severe cases, plants will eventually die.
Remedy
Dig up badly infected plants and dispose of to prevent the spores spreading to other plants. Carefully check plants before buying to ensure they are healthy and show no signs of disease.
Recipes
Nigel Slater recommends serving runner beans with lemon and garlic crumbs, as a lovely side dish for grilled fish.
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How to Grow Runner Beans
, written by Ann Marie Hendry
We all know that beans are a musical fruit, or good for your heart, depending on which version of the rhyme you learned when you were a nipper, but in the UK at least no vegetable garden or allotment plot is complete without a wigwam foaming with scarlet-flowered runner beans.
The reason? Well, not only do they make a delectable vegetable, they are drop-dead gorgeous too.
Sowing and Growing Runner Beans
Runner beans - a type of pole bean - were traditionally planted atop filled-in trenches dug the previous autumn and stocked with well-rotted manure or shredded newspaper. Kitchen waste will work too, because the main reason for doing this is to provide a deep, moist root run that will help runner beans to resist drought. Drought is a major enemy of beans, so avoid this at all costs.
Start sowing runner beans in spring and keep sowing every couple of weeks until early summer to spread out the harvest. Exactly when to sow will depend on your climate, so check out our Garden Planner for customized advice. The earliest seeds can be sown in modules or seed trays in a greenhouse, tunnel or on a sunny windowsill for transplanting later on.
Runner beans dislike cold soil, so wait until the soil has warmed to at least 10ºC (50ºF) before planting them out. You can warm soil a week or so in advance of sowing or planting using cold frames, cloches, row cover tunnels or even just sheets of plastic.
Later sowings can be made directly where they are to grow, but beware of hungry slugs and make sure to protect seedlings from wind damage. Covering them with a cloche (even a recycled plastic bottle will do) will provide all the shelter they need until they establish.
In cool or windy locations you can protect plants and boost pod production by growing them to maturity in a greenhouse or tunnel – just make sure to ‘stop’ the plants, or pinch out the growing tips, when they near the roof.
While closely-related French beans are self-pollinating, runners need help from pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds, so yields will be hampered by a wet, cold summer when insects are unlikely to be flying. A dry summer is bad news too, so make sure to water during rainless spells and mulch to preserve that moisture.
Beans are usually pretty trouble-free, but keep an eye out for black bean aphids infesting the growing tips. If this happens, clip off the tips and dispose of them.
Supporting Runner Beans
Get supports in place before planting your runners. Any frames or trellis need to be sturdy enough to support these lanky beans, which grow to well in excess of 2m (6.5 feet) tall and which will become extremely heavy when laden with pods. Netting is often used along with canes or poles to allow the vines to clamber about freely.
Bean wigwams look just as attractive in the flower garden as they do in the vegetable garden. Runner beans were originally grown purely as ornamental plants, so you can find exciting flower color choices such as ‘Scarlet Runner’ or the ravishing red-lipped white flowers of ‘Painted Lady’.
You may need to tie young plants in to their supports initially, but once they’ve got a grip they should manage on their own. If they’re catching the wind they may need to be tied in at intervals.
When the plants reach the top of their supports, pinch out their growing tips to help divert energy into flower and pod production – and to avoid the plants turning into a jungle of tangled stems and foliage.
Such tall, leafy plants will cast shade, so plan your garden to include shade-loving crops behind your towering beanstalks.
Harvesting Runner Beans
Keeping up with weeding, watering and mulching is important while the beans are growing. Apply an occasional liquid feed too. Harvesting will commence around midsummer and continue until the first frosts. Runner beans will crop slightly later than French beans, so for variety and to extend the season it can be worth growing both.
Pick your beans while they’re still quite small to avoid any stringiness, though having said that modern cultivars are usually bred to be stringless. Pick at least every other day, because you’ll be astounded at how rapidly a bean pod can grow – they seem to go from flat to fat in the blink of an eye!
If you’re going to be away during the summer, invite friends and neighbors to help themselves to your beans to encourage continued cropping for when you return. Alternatively you could use the break as an opportunity to switch from producing fresh pods to maturing beans for drying. Gluts of the whole fresh pods can be chopped, blanched if you wish (I never do, I can’t tell the difference!) then frozen.
Beautiful, productive, and delicious – what more could a vegetable gardener ask for? Share your runner bean growing tips or favorite varieties with us in the comments section below.
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Growing beans in the country
Beans are unpretentious plants and, if desired, they can be grown in our difficult climatic conditions. Especially green beans - or asparagus beans, which need less time to ripen than usual.
First, decide which beans you will grow - bush or vine. It must be borne in mind: the bush grows in a rather lush bush of short stature, and it must be planted sparsely (the distance between rows is about 30 centimeters, between plants 10-15 centimeters), and the climbing one grows towards the sky, it will need to be tied to supports.
In our area, it is better to choose early and mid-ripening varieties so that the beans have time to ripen. These are, for example, such varieties as “Bona”, “Sweet Courage”, “Oil King”, “Purple Queen” - it takes up to 60 days from germination to ripening.
Bean is a heat-loving plant, it is important that our Siberian warmth is enough for it. We have frosts even in June, so it is better to sow seeds in late May - early June, it all depends on the weather. While they are in the ground, they are not afraid of frost. Shoots at a favorable temperature appear in six to nine days. And at this moment it is important to water the plants if the ground is dry, so that the root system develops faster. After watering and rains, the soil should be loosened, so the beans grow better.
You can also grow beans through seedlings. Sowing seeds is carried out in peat pots with a feeding area of 8 x 8 centimeters, in kefir bags, etc. in early May. Three to four week old seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June, when the threat of frost has passed, in the phase of two or three true leaves. Seedlings should be planted three to four centimeters deeper than they were in the nursery. Bean sprouts are very tender and often break in the loop phase, so gardeners prefer to grow the plant through seeds planted immediately in the ground.
Experienced summer residents advise hilling grown plants twice - in a two-week interval. Then the growing beans will not fall from the wind or under the weight of their leaf mass.
Beans are demanding in terms of nutrition. Therefore, it needs to be fed twice a season. The first time after the appearance of the third leaflet - this is necessary to build up the leaves. The second time in two to three weeks - now the plant is growing stems and laying flowers. The more flowers there are, the higher the yield. Fertilizer can be taken any complex for vegetables.
Excessive moisture is something that asparagus bush beans do not like very much. Cultivation should be accompanied by moderate but regular watering once a week with a doubling of volume during the flowering period. After watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the plants so that air does not stop accessing the root nodules.
If the bush beans develop well, then some branches and pods will be on the ground and begin to rot. Therefore, you need to tie up the bushes, lifting the branches and pods. And it is also important not to miss the moment of harvesting - to monitor the growth of the pods and check them, pick them still green (or yellow, or purple - depending on which variety), do not let them dry out. Otherwise, the beans in the pods will harden. And you get regular beans.
Accent
Of all legumes, beans are the most demanding on soil fertility. Curly beans are especially demanding on soil and climatic conditions. Bush forms are less demanding.
The best soils for beans are light loams and sandy loams rich in humus with a neutral soil solution. If the soil is acidic, then it must be limed. Beans grow very poorly on heavy cold soils with a close occurrence of groundwater.
90,000 varieties, growing, landing and care, photoContent
- 1 The advantages of beans
- 2 The most popular varieties of garden beans
- 3 sowing of decorative beans for seedlings
- 3. 1 Plants of planting
- 3.2 Planting for seedlings
- 3.3 Planting seedlings in a garden bed and sowing seeds in the ground
- 4 Caring for ornamental beans
- 4.1 How to water and feed beans
- 4.2 Garter
- 5 Bean propagation methods
Ornamental bean is an unpretentious, practical crop, which is usually planted along fences, arbors, wall sections. Fast growing, reaching a length of about 5 meters, loves a warm climate, the warmth of sunlight. Suitable for eating beans of any variety, with the exception of purple beans. The culture has a low calorie content and a large amount of vegetable proteins. An ornamental plant enriches the surrounding soil with nitrogen, concentrating in the root part.
Benefits of beans
You can eat ornamental beans, they contain a whole range of useful substances:
- magnesium elements;
- calcium;
- chrome;
- zinc;
- iron;
- vitamins of groups A, B, C, E.
Please note!
Beans increase the yield of potatoes growing nearby, protect against late blight. Leaves are processed into fertilizer and compost.
String and grain beans of various types are used for cooking. You can choose a variety suitable for decorative purposes.
The advantages of beans include:
- fast growing, it is possible to turn large vertical plots green in a short warm season;
- undemanding to environmental conditions;
- a large number of varieties, varieties for everyone to choose from;
- attractiveness for a long time, thanks to unusual original inflorescences, pods;
- possible use of greenery to create fertilizer;
- nourishing the earth with nitrogen, due to its accumulation in the rhizomes.
The most popular varieties of garden beans
Beans are not only a beautiful plant, but also a food crop. There are 2 types:
- grain or shelling, its pod has a layer of parchment that fills the voids between the fruits - beans. The structure of the pod is harsh, so it is not used in cooking;
- Curly asparagus beans, green, sugar, the pods of which grow juicy and crispy, suitable for freezing. Suitable for consumption when slightly unripe. But with a full cycle of ripening, you can get a good harvest of fruits (smaller, unlike grain).
Varieties of semi-sugar curly ornamental beans have been bred, the photo can be found below, which has combined characteristics of both shelling and green beans.
Popular varieties of climbing beans:
- Bluechild bean, has a purple color of flowers, pods, leaves, gradually turning into a dark purple color with time. The vegetation period is about 100 days, in the conditions of the middle lane, grow this late crop using seedlings. Flowers appear early and last until frost.
- Common beans. Annual, combines indicators of a vegetable - pods and ripened seeds are used for food, and an ornamental plant. It winds up to 3 meters, has a large number of small flowers, dense foliage.
- Purple Queen Bean, a low shrub with purple buds and pods.
- Turkish beans, fiery red curly beans. Unpretentious, red-flowering from June to September. Pods are inedible due to tough fibers, ripe beans are no worse than their associates.
- Purple dolichos, blooming like a lilac, easily grow in warm weather, provided with high decorative effect due to abundant flowering, large leaves, pinkish stems. This is a rare variety with a pleasant aroma of flowers that can withstand cutting and keep in a vase for about a week. After flowering, purple, violet or dark green pods in clusters are very showy.
- Grain beans Violet, early ripening, with pods of bright color, distinguished by juiciness and tenderness, edible.
- Vigna Caracalla, growing with vines up to 7 meters, in our strip is an annual, inflorescences look like snails. Spiral flowers can be white, yellowish, cream, golden, purple and violet, have a pleasant aroma and longevity.
- Winged beans, with unusually shaped pods, both racemose inflorescences and leaves are used as food. It has medicinal properties, grows in length by about 3 meters.
- Beans Winner, with bright scarlet flowers, thirty centimeter pods will curl.
And many other varieties:
- Borlotto beans.
- Bean Green giant.
- Curly golden nectar beans.
- Spanish white beans.
- Curly purple beans.
- Turshevaya and others
Sowing ornamental beans for seedlings
Seeds will need to be selected before sowing:
- discard foreign matter;
- examine for external damage;
- discard scratched, split, cracked and those that show signs of disease (suspicious stains, rotting).
Then disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate to prevent the development of diseases, hold in liquid for a couple of hours, dry. Then make biological activation, prepare for subsequent germination - soak in heated water. Then you can start landing.
For trouble-free cultivation of the whip, keep the pots in the room from planting until planting in open ground. The sign for the beginning of the transplant is: the formed two or more real leaves that have irrevocably passed frosts. It is allowed to plant decorative varieties of early ripe beans in the southern regions about 2 times during the 1st growing season.
Planting dates
The last date for planting in the soil is mid-June. The soil should warm up by +15 degrees 10 cm deep, such warming occurs:
- in the southern part of Russia in the first days of May;
- in the middle lane in the last days of May;
- at northern latitude in early and mid June.
Planting for seedlings
Growing ornamental beans for seedlings starts from the last days of March. The beans are distributed in peat pots about a centimeter deep. Only one family is planted in each pot, sprouts appear quickly.
Plants reaching a height of about 10 cm require special support, seedlings should be at a stable temperature of 20 to 22 degrees Celsius, no need to pinch off the shoots.
Planting seedlings in a bed and sowing seeds in the ground
Transplanting seedlings is carried out in a period when bean sprouts have not yet developed, in order to avoid poor adaptation, they are transplanted into soil with a small part of the earth.
Sowing seeds in open ground takes place from mid-April - the period of early sowing. Much more often sown from early to mid-May. Beans, like cucumbers, do not tolerate frost, so when planting, you should focus on the cucumber crop.
Before sowing, the soil must have a stable temperature of about 14 degrees. Seeds can be soaked 15 minutes before the start of the process in a solution of potassium permanganate with a concentration of 1%. Then put 2 or 3 seeds in prepared dimples up to 2 cm deep. The distance from hole to hole will be approximately 30 cm, and from row to row - about 50 cm. Near each of the holes, a wooden rail should be installed, the length of which varies from 2.5 to 3 meters.
Please note!
Provided that the earth is completely warmed up, landing is carried out on a leveled area, and if it is not warmed up and surrounded by groundwater, a full-fledged ridge is prepared.
Ornamental bean care
Ornamental curly bean planting and care: a young crop should be protected from cold weather, provide a temperature for full development of at least 18 degrees Celsius every day.
If the degree in nature is lower, cover with film, spunbond and other covering materials. Already mature beans are not afraid of small frosts, resistant to low temperatures. Weeding is a must to take care of the culture.
How to water and feed beans
Beans should be watered regularly in all weathers, especially dry and hot weather. During dry days, it should be watered without a horn from a watering can. Pour settled warm water without chlorine along the middle line of each row between crops. In no case should liquids be allowed to get on the buds.
Can be fed with superphosphate and other organic fertilizers, with the exception of fresh manure. Significant benefits can be obtained by mulching with hay, sawdust, wood chips or straw. The ingress of both dry and liquid fertilizers on bean leaves is excluded in order to avoid burns that are difficult to heal.
Attention!
Gently pour the dry fertilizer onto the soil, spread the liquid fertilizer into each row from a watering can without a horn.
Tie
First, the seedlings should be stable:
- hill up;
- lay the plant in the direction of the intended growth.
Even during the planting period, slats were installed near each hole, on which the grown greens will be tied. This is necessary so that the whips do not creep along the ground under the weight of their weight. Tie with small ropes in 1-2 places in the direction of growth, so the beans will be fully provided with sunlight, moisture and the opportunity for full growth.
Ways of propagation of beans
Propagation of beans occurs in two ways: planting seeds directly into the soil or through seedlings. Seedlings will provide flowering much earlier, however, gardeners do not like this method very much due to the difficult tolerance of the culture of any transplants. Seeds soaked for a day in water + 18-25 degrees with a growth stimulator are dried and sent for planting - no less effective way.
First you need to prepare a bed in a sunny area, because beans are a heat-loving plant. If you make mineral and nitrogen fertilizers, they will give growth to the green mass to the detriment of the fruits. The culture can be sown when the soil at a depth of 10 cm reaches a temperature of 13-15 degrees.