Red berry tree oregon


Trees with red berries: our favorite red berry trees

(Image credit: Phil Bird / Getty Images)

Trees with red berries will provide interest in fall and winter, adding joyful color when the rest of nature is winding down. However, some varieties will add an accent in the summer, and many have beautiful flowers in the spring, too. 

There are trees with red berries to suit every garden setting, and the right choice will add seasonal impact to your backyard ideas.

‘Trees with red berries are decorative and offer visual interest, especially during the winter months,’ says Pete Smith, urban forestry program manager at Arbor Day Foundation . ‘Many of the berries can also be collected for consumption and provide valuable food for wildlife.’ 

Trees with red berries

These are our favorite trees with red berries. Several varieties can be grown as evergreen hedges, which makes them some of the best trees for privacy and screening in a backyard.

When choosing trees with red berries to suit your garden, you must only plant species that will thrive in your area. Knowing your USDA plant hardiness zone is essential, and happily there are options for almost every climate.

You also need to ensure your chosen tree is compatible with your soil type, the level of sunlight it will receive, and how much maintenance you are able to provide. 

Check its maximum size and growth rate to ensure it won't outgrow your yard, and learn how to plant a tree correctly.

Finally, consider whether you want a tree with edible red berries, or are only concerned with its ornamental value. 

‘As a longtime forager and permaculture gardener, my favorite trees with red berries all have edible or medicinal fruit,’ says Susannah Shmurak, founder of the HealthyGreenSavvy.com blog.

Many berries are packed with vitamins and antioxidants, and can be made into everything from jellies to alcoholic beverages. Before eating any berries, however, you must be certain of the variety, as some are poisonous or require cooking before consuming.

1.

Hawthorn

(Image credit: Perytskyy/Getty Images)

A familiar sight in hedgerows, the hawthorn tree – Crataegus monogyna – also makes a valuable addition to gardens, as its appealing red berries, or ‘haws’, endure through fall and into the winter. 

‘The hawthorn tree is a beautiful landscape tree that provides bright colored berries enjoyed by birds, squirrels, rabbits and deer,’ says Smith.

You can consume the haws, as long as you cook them first. ‘Hawthorn berries are prized for their medicinal value, especially for promoting heart health,’ says Shmurak.

To eat hawthorn berries, they are at their best when used to make a sauce, but can also be added to an apple jelly, used to make ‘fruit leather’, or even wine. 

In terms of variety, Emilly Barbosa Fernandes, small space gardening consultant at Housegrail , favors the green hawthorn ‘Winter King’. ‘This is one of the trees that display red berries on their branches while the rest of the trees are bare,’ she says. ‘They bloom in the mid to late spring and make a great addition to your yard.’

You should be able to grow hawthorn trees in zones 5 to 9, in most soil types. Ideally they need full sun. Most hawthorns will reach between 15-30ft.

2. Holly

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Not just a symbol of Christmas, holly is one of the best trees with red berries to include in your winter garden ideas. ‘A good option is American holly – Ilex opaca – which has glossy, green leaves all winter long and great red berries used regularly in holiday wreaths,’ says Smith.

Holly trees grow well in zones 5-9, and will tolerate partial shade and most soil types. They can eventually reach as tall as 50ft, but you will need more than one tree to get berries, as they don't self-pollinate.

Arborist Mark Russell believes English holly – Ilex aquifolium – is one of the best trees for privacy. ‘While many people use arborvitae or Leyland cypress as privacy screens, they have their drawbacks due to fungus weaknesses,' he says.

'Instead, I recommend homeowners go with an English holly, as they are hearty cultivars, produce fantastic red berries, and make great privacy screens.’

3. Mountain ash – rowanberry

(Image credit: Feifei Cui-Paoluzzo / Gerry Images)

Yielding bright red rowanberries in late summer to early winter, and frothy white blossom in the spring, the mountain ash – Sorbus aucuparia – is an attractive garden tree. The leaves turn a stunning shade of orange in the fall, making it one of the best trees for autumn color.

‘The stunning mountain ash tree produces masses of attractive fruit that birds eat in the winter – and the determined forager can use them if they're willing to make an effort,’ says Shmurak.

While not one of the tastiest berries, rowanberries are rich in vitamin C and have anti-inflammatory properties. However, you do need to freeze them for a couple of weeks before cooking them, and they take a lot of sugar to counteract their bitterness.

Shmurak recommends turning rowanberries into jelly, vinegar, wine, or even Turkish delight.

In the right setting, mountain ash trees are hardy, but they don’t like extreme heat and humidity. You should be able to grow them in zones 3-6, where they can reach around 30ft. Rowanberries will tolerate partial shade and like well-drained soil.

4. Cherry tree

(Image credit: Steve Smith / Getty Images)

‘Cherry trees are one of my all-time favorite trees with red ‘berries’. Not only do they produce delicious fruit, but the flowers are beautiful too,’ says Barbosa Fernandes.

Unlike many of the other trees featured in this list, cherries ripen during the summer. However, the trees’ stunning blossom often heralds the end of winter, and is one of the first signs that spring is on the way.

There are numerous types of cherry tree you can grow, with options for zones 3-9. Sweet varieties need full sun, but more acidic cooking cherries will grow in partial shade. 'Sweetheart' is a lovely late season variety that has bright red cherries, and is self-fertile. 

Cherry trees come in a range of sizes, and dwarf varieties are some of the best trees to grow in pots, so you can position them on the patio. 

However, even if you don’t have room for a potted cherry you can still enjoy these wonderful trees: ‘There are many festivals around the United States where you can see cherry trees in full bloom, and then later in the year go try some of the cherries yourself,’ adds Barbosa Fernandes.

5. Chokecherry

(Image credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images)

The chokecherry tree – Prunus virginiana – is native to North America. ‘It’s a smaller tree with a dark red fleshy fruit that can be used to make jams, jellies, syrups and wines,’ says Smith.

Packed with antioxidants, chokecherries can be astringent when not fully ripe, although cultivated varieties are sweeter with a cherry-like flavor.

In spring and summer, the tree bursts with clusters of white flowers, making it attractive in the garden for much of the year.

Reaching up to 30ft, the chokecherry is a versatile tree that grows in zones 2-8.

6. Red chokeberry

(Image credit: R Ann Kautzky / Alamy Stock Photo)

Not to be confused with the similarly named chokecherry, the chokeberry is a very different plant, though both are named for the effect the fruit can have on the palate.

Technically it’s an upright treelike shrub, and while common varieties are dark blue/purple, the red chokeberry – Aronia arbutifolia – is a stunning shiny ruby hue.

‘In the spring, they have gorgeous white flowers that eventually give way to the bright red berries in the summer months until late fall,’ says Jen Stark, gardening and home writer, and founder of Happy DIY Home .

‘Additionally, the leaves turn brilliant colors in the fall to give you multi-season interest. The berries are too bitter to eat raw, but you can use them in desserts or savory dishes to help balance out the flavor profile.’

This deciduous shrub gets between 6. 5-13ft tall and has large leaves, making it one of the best trees for small gardens.

7. Mulberry tree

(Image credit: YONCA60/Getty Images)

‘Red mulberry trees – Morus rubra – are wonderful because they produce an immense amount of fruit when in season,’ says Russell. 

‘The fruit that they produce is really similar to raspberries, or blackberries. It's super sweet and more than anything super plentiful.’

Mulberry trees can reach up to 80ft, and can be grown in zones 4-9, tolerating part shade. 

However, Russell warns not to plant one over your driveway or a walkway – ‘because all of those berries can stain.’ For this reason, mulberries may not be the best trees for front yards.

8. Juneberries

(Image credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images)

‘Though the ripest berries are a bit on the purply side, my favorite trees with red berries are hands-down juneberries – Amelanchier alnifolia – also known as serviceberry or saskatoon,’ says Shmurak.  

‘These delicious blueberry-like fruits grow prolifically in all sorts of conditions, have lovely spring flowers, as well as attractive fall color.’

Juneberries are hardy trees that grow well in zones 2-7, tolerating light shade and damp sites. They typically reach between 15-35ft. 

Another benefit of these wonderful trees is that in the spring they produce elegant star-shaped flowers, while in the fall, their foliage turns brilliant red orange.

9. Peruvian pepper

(Image credit: Weisschr / Getty Images)

Peruvian pepper – Schinus molle – is also known as the California pepper tree, false pepper, or the American pepper. 

'This is an evergreen tree that produces small red berries with a peppery taste,’ says Stark. 'You can eat the berries safely.'

The Peruvian pepper tree does best in arid and hot climates, thriving in zones 8-11, and reaches 25-50ft in height.

‘It has pretty pinnate fern-like leaves with small white flowers in the spring. Its berry-like drupes of pink or red woody seeds grow in large clusters all year long,' adds Stark.

10. Yew

(Image credit: Zelg / Getty Images)

A large coniferous tree, the yew – Taxus baccata – makes a beautiful addition to the garden with its bright scarlet berries in the fall and lush green needles. 

It's also an ancient tree with a fascinating history steeped in myth and superstition. While they are difficult to date, there are yew trees believed to be over 3,000 years old.

As an evergreen tree, the yew provides color and screening in the garden year round, and grows in zones 5-7.  Though it can reach great heights, it can be pruned to keep it in shape or to serve as a hedge.

However, while it offers lots of landscaping potential, the yew tree is poisonous to humans, so it’s not one to plant if you prefer trees with red berries that you can sample. Happily, the birds can enjoy the berries in safety.

How do I identify a tree with red berries?

To identify a tree with red berries, it helps to find out the common trees that grow in your area, as this will narrow down the options.

Invest in a tree identification book with clear photographs and descriptions to help you examine the tree.

While the presence of red berries provides the first clue, you should also look at the leaf type and shape, as this is slightly different for every tree.

Which trees have red berries in summer?

Popular trees that have red berries in summer include cherry trees, mulberries and juneberries, while hawthorns tend to start developing berries in the summer. 

As editor of Period Living, Britain's best-selling period homes magazine, Melanie loves the charm of older properties. I live in a rural village just outside the Cotswolds in England, so am lucky to be surrounded by beautiful homes and countryside, where I enjoy exploring. Having worked in the industry for almost two decades, Melanie is interested in all aspects of homes and gardens. Her previous roles include working on Real Homes and Homebuilding & Renovating, and she has also contributed to Gardening Etc. She has an English degree and has also studied interior design. Melanie frequently writes for Homes & Gardens about property restoration and gardening.

Native madrones are special to the Northwest

CORVALLIS, Ore. - Madrone, madrona, madrono, arbutus. Wherever you live along the Pacific coast and whatever it's called where you are, it's the same tree: Arbutus menziesii, with leathery evergreen leaves, red bark peeling from a tan trunk, whitish flowers and bright clusters of reddish-orange berries.

There are probably few plants that are more strongly identified with this area or are held in greater affection than the madrone.

If you have one in your garden, it may seem to be always shedding leaves, bark, flowers or berries. But many northwest gardeners who've tried to transplant one without success would gladly pay that price.

In Oregon, the common name of these trees is madrone. According to Linda McMahan, native plant expert and horticulturist with the Yamhill County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service, madrones don't take well to tending by overly conscientious gardeners. They're more likely to show up in rocky arid areas where other trees don't survive, along an inhospitable roadside bank or in the middle of a dense Douglas fir stand than in a well-watered garden. In fact, McMahan says if you do coax a madrone to grow in your garden, water it infrequently and deeply, if at all, once it's well-established.

Madrones are notoriously difficult to transplant. Some authorities recommend buying seedlings that have been marked with north or south on the seedling tube so that you can plant the tree with the same orientation it's been used to. Since madrones don't tolerate having their roots disturbed, buy the smallest ones you can find. Use exceptional care planting even small seedlings, not to cramp the roots. To increase your chances of success, buy and plant more than you think you really want. You can always dig the extra ones up later – or just enjoy having more madrones than you'd planned on.

One theory to explain why madrones are so difficult to transplant is that they rely heavily on a complex relationship with fungal filaments in the soil. These fungal filaments grow together with plant roots to form extensive networks called myccorhizae. These bring additional water and nutrients to the plant. Myccorhizae can increase the working surface area of the roots by as much as a thousand-fold.

If you can plant your madrone seedling in soil dug up from under a mature madrone tree, where myccorhizal relationships are already established, you might be able to give yours a head start.

Since madrones tend to shed leaves and bark over a period of several months throughout the summer, consider putting yours in an area that doesn't need to be manicured. Then as long as the tree doesn't have blight-blackened leaves, you can let both leaves and bark dry and crumble where they fall.

Leaf blight shows up as blackened leaves during the winter and can be widespread over the tree. At least some of the various types of fungus that cause madrone leaves to blacken are now thought to be endemic. The good news is that, while the black leaves are unsightly, they usually don't seem to harm the tree substantially. The new leaves emerge shortly before the old ones drop, and soon the tree looks healthy again. However, if you have blighted leaves, try removing the blackened leaves promptly from under and even from the tree itself as the new ones emerge. Within a couple of years this method may help to reduce the blight to much less noticeable levels.

Madrones tend to have irregular growth forms, sometimes putting out long bare branches with large clumps of leaves at the ends, especially if they're growing among other more aggressive trees where they need to twist and reach for the light. On rocky outcrops along some coastal stretches, you can find clusters of small madrones that have been stunted and gnarled by the wind. On the other hand, if they have little competition for space and little stress, they can also grow into a more classic shade-tree form with heavily leaved branches above a straight thick trunk.

Seattle had a madrone with an 11-foot circumference on its Heritage Tree tour until 2004 when it succumbed to disease.

Whatever their size, the individuality of madrones is always immediately recognizable by their distinctive bark and leaves and is one of the charms of this tree.

The clusters of small whitish flowers in the spring attract insects, and mature madrone trunks attract woodpeckers. Other birds flock to the red berries in droves in late summer and fall. The berries are edible but rather tasteless for humans.

Other species of Arbutus are native to the eastern Mediterranean and to southern Europe, but madrone grows only on the Pacific Coast of North America, primarily from northern California to southern British Columbia.

Want to learn more about this topic? Explore more resources from OSU Extension: Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees

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Lzhetsuga - Saplings13.

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Lzhetsuga.

Pseudotsuga, or pseudo-hemlock (Pseudotsuga) is a small genus in the Pine family, numbering, according to various estimates, from 7 to 18 species of large evergreen trees that are forest-forming in the west of North America and separate components of forests in East Asia. One of the most beautiful conifers of North American origin. It is not very common in our culture, but it deserves wider use due to winter hardiness, fairly rapid growth, and the presence of interesting decorative forms.

The conical tiered crown of the pseudosugi resembles spruce, but the structure of the bark and needles is more similar to fir. Resin growths are clearly visible on the young bark, and the needles on the underside have 2 stomatal strips, giving it a slightly bluish tint. However, the cones hang down, and do not stick out, like those of spruces, and have a characteristic distinctive feature from fir - a trident-shaped process with an elongated midrib on each covering scale. The myth of the Californian Indians compares them to the tail and two tiny paws of a mouse hiding in a bump from a forest fire.

Ever since the pseudosuga was first discovered on Vancouver Island in the Pacific Northeast by the Scottish naturalist Archibald Menzies in 1791, taxonomists have long tried to determine its taxonomic position. At first it was ranked among the pines, then - to the spruces and even sequoias. Then she was given the name of the English botanist David Douglas, who rediscovered it in 1826, calling it "Douglas fir" or "Douglas fir". Thanks to the seeds he sent to England, this plant was introduced into cultivation in Europe in 1828 and quickly became a garden favorite and an important forest crop. Later it was assigned to hemlock, however, having found obvious differences, it was soon isolated into an independent genus.

The name pseudosuga was given to the plant by the French botanist Carrière in 1867. By the end of the century, East Asian species found in Taiwan, China, and Japan were also described. They are distinguished by needles notched at the top and smaller sizes. All of them are more thermophilic compared to North American ones, only some are found in Europe in collections where not all of them have taken root well.

Only one species, Pseudotsuga menziesii, is the most widespread. This is the second largest tree in the world after the evergreen sequoia (Sequoia sempervirens), and the largest in the Pine family, often forming pure forests along the Pacific coast, entering the mountains up to a height of 1800 m. It is believed that here this plant was the main plant, starting since the Pleistocene. In old forests, it reaches a height of 130 m and 6 m in diameter, although on average it does not exceed a height of 60-75 (100) m and a diameter of 4.5 m in the lower part of the trunk. The largest specimen was described in 1897 in the state of Washington, its height was 142 m, and the trunk diameter was 10 m.

The crown of the plant is beautiful, conical, with irregularly whorled arrangement of branches, the ends of which are raised when young, and slightly lowered with age. In a free-standing state, the tree retains a crown located almost to the ground. In dense shaded conditions, it loses a large number of branches, almost to the very top, like our Scotch pine. The bark of young trees is gray, smooth, with resinous outgrowths. Grayish-brown in mature trees, it is covered with deep longitudinal cracks with peeling plates, has a well-developed cork tissue and reaches a thickness of 12 cm (sometimes even up to 30.5 cm). Strong bark helps trees survive forest fires and exist for more than 1000 (500-700 on average) years.

Mosses and lichens cover trees in old coastal forests. Stems olive green to brown, slender, pubescent with short dark hairs, becoming glabrous with age. The buds are well distinguishable from spruce ones - red-brown, pointed, characteristic spindle-shaped, 4-8 mm long, not resinous. The needles are from yellow to dark green, flattened, soft, pointed at the top, 1-2.5 (4) cm long, arranged singly in a spiral. Lives 6-8 years. The pollen is yellow-red in color, so the bright male strobiles decorate the plant very much. Pollination of female strobili located at the tips of the shoots is carried out by the wind.

Cones oval, hanging, green when young, orange-red when mature, up to 5-10 (24) cm long. Ripens in 6-7 months, in autumn. Fruiting begins at the age of 10 and is usually annual, but the most abundant harvests occur every 6 years. Seeds are winged, usually fall out in the same year, but some may remain until the next. Lzhedotsuga is photophilous, does not tolerate shade, but can tolerate partial shade, although under such conditions it becomes less decorative, loses up to a third of the branches in the lower part of the trunk. At a young age, it is prone to sunburn.

Likes loamy, fertile, moist but well-drained soil with a pH of 3.7-6.5, but closer to neutral is best. Does not tolerate calcareous soils. It suffers from soil compaction, responds positively to loosening tree trunks. Drought intolerant when young but becomes more drought tolerant with age. Moderately resistant to winds, protection from strong winds is desirable, which can spoil the appearance of the crown. Fairly hardy, but young growths are sometimes damaged by late spring frosts, but are easily restored.

In America, the Menzies pseudo-hemlock is a favorite tree and has become the state symbol of Oregon. Used as a Christmas tree along the Pacific Coast, along with fir and spruce, it has been grown in nurseries since the 1920s. Unlike the last two, her crown is perfect, she is never one-sided. Valued for its exceptional strength wood, which is used for structures subject to high loads - for sleepers, beams, rafters, telegraph poles, bridges and large structures, in shipbuilding.

The large height and thickness of the trees makes it possible to obtain solid wooden structures of great length, uniform in texture, without defects and knots, which do not deform and are resistant to decay. At the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition, the state of Oregon planted its flag on a 91.1 m high flagpole made from a single piece of pseudo-hemlock wood. The wood has a red sapwood and a beautiful orange-red hue of the heartwood, now appearing under the name "Oregon". The wood is dense, heavy, fine-grained in structure, dries quickly and does not deform, and can be processed well. It produces high-quality veneer, material for interior decoration, furniture and joinery.

Used on exclusive business jets. Pseudo-hemlock wood is one of the most economically important. For her sake, pseudosugu began to be grown in almost the entire temperate zone. As a result, it has become naturalized in many European countries, Argentina and Chile, where it is known as the "Oregon Pine", and even in New Zealand, where it has become a noxious weed. Like balsam fir, the bark serves as a source of resin, which is used in the production of glues and candles, used in microscopy, soap making and perfumery. It burns with the release of a large amount of heat and almost does not smoke, therefore it is valued as a fuel. From the bark, tannins and a light brown dye were obtained, used as a cork substitute. It is a good mulching material and fertilizer for the soil.

Pseudo-hemlock needles have a light, sweet, fruity-resinous aroma and are rich in vitamin C. Native American Indian tribes used the young shoots as a food flavoring, to make a refreshing tea with a delicate forest aroma, and tonic surrogate coffee. The sweet sap of the trees served as a substitute for sugar. The antiseptic properties of the resin were used by the Indians to treat wounds, burns, skin diseases, it was chewed to treat coughs and sore throats.

Infusion of young bark was used for bleeding and gastrointestinal diseases. An infusion of pine needles was prepared for baths against rheumatism of the joints and drunk with a cold. Infusion of shoots treated diseases of the kidneys and bladder, and decoction of the kidneys - venereal diseases.

Fresh shoots were placed in the toe of shoes to prevent sweating of the feet. The shoots were soaked in cold water to make a mouthwash. In modern herbalism, all these recipes are almost forgotten. But even now the kidneys are used to obtain a clear, colorless fruit brandy "Eau de Vie" ("Water of Life").

In landscapes, it is often used to create windbreaks, screens, alleys, group and single plantings, in pure and mixed plantations. Widely used for reforestation in England, where the climate is close to the coastal conditions of western North America.

Form Pseudotsuga menziesii var. glauca, growing in the Rocky Mountains up to a height of 3000 m, is often considered as an independent species - Pseudotsuga gray-gray (Pseudotsuga glauca). It has a lower height, about 60 m, and often lower - up to 15 m. The crown is pyramidal, with slightly hanging branches. The needles are dark green, with a sweet smell. More cold hardy and slightly more drought tolerant. According to the growing conditions, it is closer to our temperate climate and is more acceptable for landscaping, although it does not tolerate urban pollution very well.

Despite the fact that false suga was introduced into culture in Russia more than 100 years ago, it has become most widespread only in the south of Russia and Ukraine. Quite rare, but there are decorative forms of Menzies' pseudosugs on sale, among which there are golden-tipped f. aurea, white-tipped f. albospica, low (5 m) form "Moerheimit" with sickle-curved bluish needles, dwarfs "Densa" (up to 1 m) and "Fletcheri" (up to 1.5 m), there are also high weeping, pin-shaped and bluish-white forms .

It is recommended to plant small saplings of pseudosuga, not exceeding 30-90 cm in height, with a closed root system, since the root of young plants is taproot. This is important for the proper formation of the root system and wind resistance.

The root system of pseudosuga on dense soils is not very deep, but has an extensive network of shallow superficial roots. On loose soils, sandy loam, the tap root is more pronounced. The transplant is well tolerated only after preliminary preparation with cutting the root system.

Well-cultivated loam is considered to be the most acceptable substrate for pseudosuga, on which it forms a powerful root system. In the first years after planting, shading from sunburn and preventive shelter for the winter are recommended.


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