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Grass seed by region

NOT ALL SEED IS CREATED EQUAL

Seed is by far the smartest way to establish a lawn, but not all seed is created equal.

Anybody can purchase lawn seed at their local big-box store, but do you think that's where golf course superintendents or high-end property managers go for their projects? Not a chance. A careful look at the seed tags of these products will reveal their true nature - high levels of inert matter, filler species, and mediocre varieties.

But Nature’s Seed is different, and you’ll notice the difference in your lawn when you order one of our bags. Read below to learn more about our grass seed, how to seed your lawn, and which options are right for you!

Seed Selector™

Did you know that Americans with lawns spend nearly 60 hours a month on yard work? 

America's love for lawns is apparent — but not everybody has such good luck when it comes to a green lawn. These days there are so many options and styles that it's essential to know what the best grass seed for your lawn is.

Nature's Seed believes that a great lawn starts at the seed. That's why we provide high-quality bags of seed with no added filler. Read below to learn the in's and out's of the lawn seeds we offer, where you can grow them, and other considerations when buying grass seed for your lawn.

 

 

Best Grass Seed

Things to Consider When Buying Grass Seed

If you're looking to buy grass seed, there are a few things you'll want to address first.
You'll have to think about whether your lawn is dying or damaged, whether it's for pasture or forage use, and what kind of sun, shade, and rain it gets. 

 

Choose Grass For Your Region

The Purpose of the Grass

Buy Quality Grass Seed

You'll want to narrow down your list of choices to start, and for that we recommend our calculator that tells you the best seeds by region. Knowing what kinds of grasses do well in your area is the right way to start because many cool-season types of grass will go dormant and dry up in the southern summer months.

After you've narrowed down types of grass ideal for your climate, it's time to think about how you're using the grass:

Answering these questions will help point you to the right grass seed. For example, in hot climates, lawns with sandy soils, lots of sun, and dry skies might be a perfect place to plant Bahia seed (since Bahia is known to be hardy with soil types and drought-tolerant). Explore your options by region and find the best one for you. 

Buying quality lawn seed might sound obvious, but it's sometimes hard to tell the difference between top grain and mediocre seed just by looking at the bag.  

The good news is that there are general rules of thumb that you want to abide by:

At Nature's Seed, we ensure that every bag meets or exceeds these guidelines — and big-box stores can't make that promise. 

Get To Know Your Grass Types

FUN FACT: In early America, grass seed was primarily used to feed livestock. 

There are hundreds of species of grass, but there are only two grass types: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Appropriately choosing species for your climate from these two overarching types will ensure a healthy and thriving lawn. 

Some warm-season and cool-season grasses do well in what's called the “transitional zone,” which is a belt that runs horizontally through the middle of the United States. These grasses are a mix of warm- and cold-tolerant to certain extents. But there are important differences between the two types: 

Warm-season grass originates in the south and does best in hot weather. It goes dormant and turns brown with a cold temperature. It does better planted in the spring so it can grow throughout the warm summer months. 

Cool-season grass originates from the north and grows rapidly in the spring and fall, turns brown in the high summer heat, best to plant in late summer or early fall. 

There's a simple way to depict which kinds of grasses do well in your region. First, you can refer to the USDA's Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

Plant Hardiness Zones

The planting zones are determined by:

Throughout the map, you'll notice varying colors and ranges. This color-coded map is used to identify your zone, which can help you choose the best grasses for your area. For example, Texas has a wide range of zones, varying from 6 to 9, which means you could find a variety of transitional and warm-season grasses there. 

Warm-Season Grasses

Warm-season grasses excel in warm climates. They also do well in poor soils with low moisture-holding capacity. When warm-season grasses dry out, it can be harvested and stored to dry out as hay.

Although generally hardy grasses, its primary growth is mid-summer and requires water and sometimes fertilization during the first few weeks. It's also crucial that you choose a grass ideal for your soil type and climate so you can keep a green-looking lawn year-round.

Here, you can learn about the best warm-season grasses. First, sure to do a soil test and check your area's best grass seed by region. 

#1: Bermuda

Like most grasses present in the United States, Bermuda grass isn't native to the U.S. And despite what its name implies, it's not native to Bermuda! It originates from East Africa, arriving in the states during the 1750s as a forage grass for cattle.  

Because of its hardiness, bermudagrass is a favorite in the southwestern U.S. It is a dense and adaptable turf grass that is used for lawns, pastures, athletic fields, golf courses, and parks, making it perfect for high-traffic areas. It does best in warm weather, but is also cool-tolerant to a certain extent, although it will go dormant below 60°F. 

It grows as far as Virginia, excelling in tropical climates where it will stay bright green year-round. Its planting zones are 7, 8, 9, and 10, which covers the southern U.S. with a distinct line from Virginia to some parts of New Mexico, Arizona, and California.

#2: Buffalograss

Buffalograss is a low-maintenance, tough turf grass that is native to the Great Plains from Montana to New Mexico. It was first used as turf in the 1930s and impressed many homeowners with its cold-resistance and drought-tolerance. 

If you look closely, you'll notice its dark bluish-green color with slightly curled blades at the ends. Water needs are minimal so that you can expect a bright green lawn throughout the hottest temperatures of the summer. However, because it's not a thick grass, buffalograss is susceptible to weeds. 

Buffalograss has a wide planting zone, ranging between 5, 6, 7, and 8, taking up the majority of the transitional zones and all of the southern U.S. This grass is ideal for those who want a vibrant lawn throughout the hottest of summers. 

#3: Zoysia

Zoysia grass is a dark green grass that is relatively new to the United States, and was introduced from the coast of the Philippines in Manila in 1911. Ideal for lawns with high-traffic and full to partial sun, it has a slow establishment rate. But the good news is that once it forms, zoysia most often resists any weeds. 

Zoysia is drought-tolerant, so water needs are minimal — however, if not watered just right, it will go dormant. It will turn brown after the first frost but resumes growth at 70°F. Although its hardiness allows it to grow in a variety of soils, it doesn't do well in overly-wet soils.

Its planting zones are 7, 8, 9, and 10, covering the majority of the southern U.S., with a few exceptions in the northern parts of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. 

#4: Bahiagrass

Bahiagrass is native to South America and is primarily used in the southeastern U.S. It is an excellent lawn seed for lawns that need a pick-me-up due to poor soils and areas without plenty of rainfall. It is also low-maintenance without requiring too much water or fertilizing. 

However, it will die out in the shade, in acidic soils, near saltwater, or if there's too much foot traffic. It is light green with coarse, short leaves that are susceptible to diseases.

Its planting zones are parts of 1, 2, 5, 8, 9, and 11. This makes it unique, covering the majority of the southeastern U.S. from Virginia to Florida to Texas. However, it doesn't do well in extremely arid areas like New Mexico or Arizona but excels just fine in all of California. 

 

Cool-Season Grasses

Cool-season grasses are types of grass that have adapted to do well in climates with fluctuating temperatures. They don't typically die out in the harsh winter months and might be able to resist extreme weather better than the warm-season counterpart. These grasses do their best growing between 60 to 75°F, which is why it's best to plant in the spring and fall. 

Although cool-season grasses take up the majority of the U.S., it's essential to know which species will do best in your area. Check out our list below and be sure to refer to a planting zone map. 

#1: Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is a meadow-grass that is native to Europe, North Asia, and the mountains of Algeria and Morocco. Sometime between the 15th and 19th century, the Spanish Empire brought these lawn seeds in mixtures with other grasses. Today, Kentucky bluegrass is used all over humid, cold parts of the U.S. 

Kentucky bluegrass is often used as a pasture plant, athletic fields, and lawns and gardens. The blades are thin with rounded tips like the bow of a boat, but it grows densely which makes it traffic-tolerant. However, it does have a shallow root system which means it requires frequent watering — but it spreads quickly, maintains density, and heals quickly after damage. 

Because of its hardiness, Kentucky bluegrass thrives in planting zones 1 through 7, which is all across the northern belt of the U.S., from Maine to parts of Oregon, including transitional zones. In these climates, it remains green and lush with the right watering. What more could a homeowner want? 

#2: Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is perhaps the most versatile grass seed in the U.S. It is ideal as pasture seed and for home lawns and gardens, where it establishes quickly, has a long growing season, tolerates traffic, and recovers quickly from damage.

Perennial ryegrass is an excellent targeting grass seed. It does best in cold-weather regions for pastures and turf, serving a year-round presence as opposed to annual ryegrass, which goes dormant during the hot midsummer. 

You can find perennial ryegrass all across the U. S., serving as a cool-season lawn in the northern half and used to overseed warm-season grasses in the southern parts. It does best between planting zones 3 through 7. 

#3: Fine Fescue

Ideal for the northeast, northwest, and the transitional zones, fine fescue is a disease-resistant, bunch-forming grass that originates from Europe. It was introduced to the U.S. in the early 1800s when lawns became fashionable to Americans, especially for those who craved a year-round lawn that grows quickly. 

When planting fine fescue, it's crucial to spread across the lawn carefully. Since it grows in bunches, it can be easy to plant too much in one spot. 

Fescue is a favorite for many homeowners and farmers. For example, certain species like red fescue help with erosion control, are great as cover crops, for golf courses, playgrounds, and even pasture for deer, elk, and moose. 

Did You Know? Red fescue is actually disliked in some regions because it can become weedy or invasive in some areas, which is why it's wise to double-check your local NRCS Field Office for its status and use in your area.  

Still, fine fescue is one of the most popular and widespread grass seeds in the U.S. It adapts well in various climates since it's about to tolerate cold, heat, drought, and shade. It's a great addition to lawns that need that extra resilience and durability, thriving in zones 2 through 7. 

Nature's Seed Can Make the Difference

When it comes to yard care, you want to make sure your home has the healthiest lawn on the block, which starts with the best grass seed. And although pristine lawn care can seem overwhelming, it's effortless thanks to Nature's Seeds easy-to-use Seed Selector tool. 

Instead of choosing the cheapest brand name at your local big-box stores, it's essential to understand the ingredients in your seed so you know you're buying something high-quality for your lawn. 


The good news is that it's easy to buy quality grass seed thanks to Nature's Seed. We exclusively provide premium quality seeds with varieties only top-rated by the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program. Choose from any of our categories to start shopping now!

 

About our Lawn Grass Seed

The Nature’s Seed Difference

The Nature’s Seed Difference

Nature's Seed only stocks turf varieties that have been top-rated by the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). These elite varieties have been bred for superior genetic traits such as color, density, drought tolerance, and disease and pest resistant. You won't find these varieties at big-box stores.

Once we've acquired the best seed possible, we submit it to rigorous quality controls including custom cleaning, purity, and viability testing performed by independent seed laboratories. And unlike other seed companies, we sell all our grass seed in PLS (pure live seed). This means you get the exact amount of viable seed that you order, every time.

But which seeds should you choose, and how do you plant them effectively? Below, we share some tips on which grass seed types to choose, when to seed your lawn, and how to choose a grass seeder that works for you.


Grass Seed Types

Grass Seed Types

Lawn grass can be classified into two main types: cool-season and warm-season. As you might have guessed, cool-season grasses perform better in the northern half of the United States while warm-season grasses are better adapted to the southern half.

The most popular cool-season lawn grasses include Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescues. Some of the most popular warm-season grasses include bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, buffalograss, and bahia.

What about the transitional zone where the northern half of the country meets the southern half? In these areas, both cool and warm-season types can be used — although we usually recommend a tall fescue blend for better coverage.


When to Seed Lawn

When to Seed Lawn

After you’ve determined if you’ll be using cool-season or warm-season species, you’re ready to determine your planting date.

Ideally, cool-season grasses should be planted in the spring or fall when your average high temperatures between 60-75 degrees. Warm-season grasses should be planted in the spring or early summer when your average high temperatures are above 80 degrees.


Lawn Grass Seeders

THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT MAKES AND MODELS OF SEED SPREADERS:
Hand-held Broadcast Spreaders

These are some of the most common and least expensive types of spreaders available. The spreader is held with one hand while the other hand cranks on a handle, flinging the seed over a distance as you walk across an area. These spreaders work great for smaller lawns, but aren’t practical for large lawns or sports fields. Flow rate accuracy and quality can also be questionable on some models.

Tow Behind/Push Broadcast Spreader

These types of spreaders fling seed just like the hand-held versions, but are wheeled across the ground instead of carried and are much more efficient for large areas. However, what you make up for in speed and efficiency you lose in precision. Best used for large open areas.

Drop Spreaders

Drop spreaders are also wheeled and pushed/towed along the ground, but instead of flinging seed over a distance they “drop” seed from the bottom of the spreader in a very precise, controlled manner. Drop spreaders are an excellent choice for seeding irregularly shaped lawns and keeping seed out of flower beds, sidewalks, etc. but are more time-consuming than broadcast spreaders.

Slit Seeders

Slit seeders are engine-powered machines that cut small groves into the soil and place the seed directly into these slits all in one pass. They offer unmatched efficiency, accuracy, and seed-to-soil contact and produce some of the best results, but are tricky in tight areas. Used extensively by professionals and can also be rented by homeowners.


Lawn Grass Seed Faqs

How long does it take for grass seed to grow & germinate?

Different grass species take different amounts of time to germinate (sprout). Here’s the most common lawn grasses listed from quickest to slowest. Keep in mind that these times are for seeds planted under ideal conditions – temperature, moisture levels, etc. If planted under less-than ideal conditions these times could be longer.

Perennial Ryegrass: 5-10 days

Fine Fescue: 7-12 days

Tall Fescue: 7-12 days

Buffalograss: 7-14 days

Zoysia Grass: 7-21 days

Bahia Grass: 10-14 days

Bermudagrass: 10-30 days

Kentucky Bluegrass: 14-30 days

How long is grass seed good for?

When stored in a cool, dry place and away from all temperature extremes, grass seed should last between 10-18 months from the testing date without a significant decrease in the germination rate. After this time the seed can still be used, but each year after that will see the germination rate drop. Most sources report a 10-20% decrease for every year grass seed is stored.

How much grass seed per acre?

Nature’s Seed sells turfgrass blends by the coverage area. These sizes range from 500 sq. ft. to 5000 sq. ft. and are based on our recommended seeding rates for each species. However, we know lawns come it larger sizes especially if you’re planting a park or sports field. For areas over 10,000 sq. ft. in size, please contact us for the best prices possible.

Here’s a handy guide for planting grass seed by the acre based on our recommended seeding rates for each of our turf blends.

Blue Ribbon Kentucky Bluegrass Blend: 218 lbs./acre

Velvet Blue Blend: 131 lbs./acre

Northeast Seed Blend: 131 lbs./acre

Northwest Seed Blend: 349 lbs./acre

Sun & Shade Blend: 262 lbs./acre

Perennial Ryegrass Blend: 436 lbs./acre

Fine Fescue Seed Blend: 349 lbs./acre

Triple-Play Tall Fescue Blend: 523 lbs./acre

Low Maintenance Seed Blend: 262 lbs./acre

Bahia Grass Seed Blend: 218 lbs./acre

Bermudagrass Seed Blend: 175 lbs./acre

Buffalograss Seed Blend: 131 lbs./acre

Zoysia Grass Seed Blend: 88 lbs. /acre

How often to water grass seed?

When your lawn is just starting out you should keep the area constantly moist, but not soaked, until the new grass is two inches tall. This is usually accomplished by watering 2-3 times a day for 5-10 minutes at a time. After this, begin cutting back until you’re watering every other day. After a few weeks of this, cut back to three times a week. Once your lawn is fully established you can follow a more permanent schedule but remember infrequent, deep watering is better for your lawn than frequent, shallow watering. Watering every day not only encourages weed growth, it can also lead to a shallow root system since the roots have no reason to grow deeply to find moisture. This makes the grass more susceptible to drought stress if water suddenly becomes unavailable, like when water restrictions are put in place or natural precipitation fails to fall. Shallow roots are also more prone to pest problems, traffic damage, and diseases. Instead, water deeply enough to saturate the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches. Do this once or twice a week max. To find out if you’re watering deep enough, grab a shovel and start watering you lawn. Dig up a small section of your lawn every 15 minutes to find out how long it takes for water to seep 6-8 inches down. Once you know how long it takes, set your sprinkler system to water for that duration every time.

How to best plant grass seed in the spring?

While fall planting is the ideal time for cool-season turfgrasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fescue, springtime can be very successful too. For warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysia grass and bahia, late spring is the best time.

Step 1 – Prepare the area by killing off and/or removing the old lawn or existing vegetation. This can be accomplished using a tiller, sod cutter, or with a glyphosate herbicide. If you use a tiller or sod cutter, break up any soil clumps and rake the area smooth. If you use glyphosate, wait 2-3 weeks and then remove the dead vegetation. Scalping the area with a string trimmer or lawnmower on the lowest setting does this nicely. Follow this up with a vigorous raking to loosen and smooth out the soil.

Step 2 – Sow the seed using a seed spreader. Hand sowing can work for smaller areas, but larger areas should be planted with a mechanical spreader. Follow the spreader manufacture’s recommended settings for the type of seed you’re using. Most manufactures list their settings on their websites.

Step 3 – After sowing the seed work it into the soil by raking lightly or by pressing it into the soil using a lawn roller.

Step 4 – In arid climates, apply a thin layer of mulch to help the soil retain moisture (optional).

Step 5 – Keep the soil constantly moist, but not soaked, until the new grass is two inches tall. This is usually accomplished by watering 2-3 times a day for 5-10 minutes at a time.

How to plant grass seed on existing lawn?

Planting into existing grass, also known as overseeding, is one of the best ways to rejuvenate an existing lawn. Not only does overseeding help bare and thin areas fill in, it also introduces newer turfgrass varieties into older lawns. These newer varieties bring with them added resistance to pests and diseases, and improve the overall quality of the lawn. Overseeding can be accomplished in three steps:

  1. Prepare the area by mowing your lawn shorter than usual and removing the clippings. This is important for achieving adequate seed-to-soil contact. For even better results, consider having your lawn core-aerated prior to overseeding.

  1. Sow the seed using a spreader. For overseeding purposes you only need to use half the recommended seeding rate. For example, if the seeding rate was 5 lbs. /1000 sq. ft. for establishing a new lawn, the seeding rate for overseeding an existing lawn would be 2.5 lbs. /1000 sq. ft.

  1. Keep the area constantly moist, but not soaked, while the new seed germinates. Continue this until the new grass reaches the height of your existing grass. Continue to mow as needed but try to limit the traffic on your lawn during this time.

How to plant grass seed on hard dirt?

Trying to plant grass seed on hard, compacted soil is challenging. Whatever you do, don’t bring in topsoil and spread it over the hard soil. While it may look like the problem is solved and your grass will even germinate and start to establish, that compacted layer will play havoc with the drainage, root development, and overall vigor of your grass later. However, if you can bring in enough new soil to bury the compacted soil at least 2-3 feet deep than this idea can work, but that much soil over a large area is usually not practical.

The best solution is to incorporate organic matter into the compacted soil at a depth of at least 6 inches, deeper if possible. Organic matter can include compost, lawn clippings, shredded leaves, aged manure, etc. Tilling is often the only way to incorporate this matter into the soil. Make sure the soil isn’t wet or it could do more harm than good. However, a slightly moist soil will make for easier tilling than bone dry soil will. In the future having the area core-aerated yearly will help avoid more compaction.

How to spread grass seed evenly?

The best way to sow grass seed, and the way we strongly recommend, is with a mechanical spreader. These spreaders come in many varieties but all function the same basic way. By adjusting the distribution rate these device help to ensure a uniform, consistent spread. This consistency makes for a more efficient use of grass seed and eliminates the patchiness often resulting from hand spreading. Here is a closer look at the different types of mechanical spreaders on the market:

Hand-held Broadcast Spreaders – These are some of the most common and least expensive types of spreaders available. The spreader is held with one hand while the other hand cranks on a handle, flinging the seed over a distance as you walk across an area. These spreaders work great for smaller lawns but aren’t practical for large lawns or sports fields. Flow rate accuracy and quality can also be questionable on some models.

Tow Behind/Push Broadcast Spreader – These types of spreaders fling seed just like the hand-held versions, but are wheeled across the ground instead of carried and are much more efficient for large areas. However, what you make up for in speed and efficiency you lose in precision. Best used for large open areas.

Drop Spreaders – Drop spreaders are also wheeled and pushed/towed along the ground, but instead of flinging seed over a distance they “drop” seed from the bottom of the spreader in a very precise, controlled manner. Drop spreaders are an excellent choice for seeding irregularly shaped lawns and keeping seed out of flower beds, sidewalks, etc. but are more time-consuming than broadcast spreaders.

Slit Seeders – Slit seeders are engine-powered machines that cut small groves into the soil and place the seed directly into these slits all in one pass. They offer unmatched efficiency, accuracy, and seed-to-soil contact and produce some of the best results, but are tricky in tight areas. Used extensively by professionals and can also be rented by homeowners.

What is the best grass seed for shade?

Most grasses prefer full-sun (8+ hours of sunlight a day), and some grasses can handle part-sun (4-6 hours of sunlight a day). But for areas that receive 2-4 hours a day, fine fescue is the best choice for northern climates. Unfortunately, if you have an area that receives less than 2 hours of sunlight a day you might need to consider a different type of groundcover.

For shady areas in the southern half of the United States your options are very limited. Warm-season grasses perform best in these southern areas, but warm-season grasses are also known for being intolerant of shade. Some varieties of zoysia can tolerant part-sun conditions, but the most shade-tolerant warm-season grass is St. Augustine (not available in seed form). St. Augustine grass has some drawbacks however, so be sure to do your homework before considering this type of lawn.

What is the best way to plant grass seed in the fall?

Late summer and early fall is the prime time for planting cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescue. Soil temperatures are warm and nights are cool which encourages quick germination and rabid establishment. Fall also happens to be the beginning of the wetter season throughout much of the United States, and soil moisture levels are near perfect. However, fall is not a good time for planting warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysia grass, or bahia. Wait until late spring for these types of grasses.

Step 1 – Prepare the area by killing off and/or removing the old lawn or existing vegetation. This can be accomplished using a tiller, sod cutter, or with a glyphosate herbicide. If you use a tiller or sod cutter, break up any soil clumps and rake the area smooth. If you use glyphosate, wait 2-3 weeks and then remove the dead vegetation. Scalping the area with a string trimmer or lawnmower on the lowest setting does this nicely. Follow this up with a vigorous raking to loosen and smooth out the soil.

Step 2 – Sow the seed using a seed spreader. Hand sowing can work for smaller areas, but larger areas should be planted with a mechanical spreader. Follow the spreader manufacture’s recommended settings for the type of seed you’re using. Most manufactures list their settings on their websites.

Step 3 – After sowing the seed work it into the soil by raking lightly or by pressing it into the soil using a lawn roller.

Step 4 – In arid climates, apply a thin layer of mulch to help the soil retain moisture (optional).

Step 5 – Keep the soil constantly moist, but not soaked, until the new grass is two inches tall. This is usually accomplished by watering 2-3 times a day for 5-10 minutes at a time.

What to cover grass seed with?

Covering an area with mulch after seeding can be beneficial when establishing a new lawn. While it’s not a requirement it can help the soil retain moisture. This is especially helpful in dry, arid parts of the country. There are many different types of mulches available ranging from peat moss, straw, compost, recycled paper, etc. We strongly recommend against peat moss as its use contributes to wetland destruction. Straw is a cheap option, but make sure it comes from a weed-free source or else you could introduce weed seeds into your new lawn. Spreading one 80 lb. bale per 1000 square feet is adequate. The best option is our professional-grade Seed Aide Cover Grow – water retaining seed starting mulch. This mulch combines post-consumer recycled paper, recycled clean whole-wood mulch, organic tackifier, and bio-stimulant for superior seed establishment.

Where does grass come from?

Nature’s Seed uses an extensive network of grass seed producers from around the country, but the majority of the cool-season grass seeds we use were grown and harvested in the Pacific Northwest. Oregon is the largest supplier of cool-season grass seeds in the country and is grown and harvested by professional farmers. Here at Nature’s Seed, we select and stock only the best grass varieties based on data gathered by the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP).

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Fescue Grass Seed | Nature's Seed

At a Glance: Fescue Grass

While the older varieties of tall fescue had a reputation for being weedy, invasive, coarse, and generally undesirable for lawn use, the newer turf-type varieties are more than making up for its questionable history. Fine fescue is also having its moment, enjoying the current “no-mow” trend taking place around the country.

As you prepare to plant your seeds, here are some things you should know about fescue grass:

Cool-season grass

 - It grows well in northern regions and shaded areas

Drought-tolerant

 - Fescue requires little water maintenance and upkeep

Dethatching

 - It rarely needs dethatching

Browning

 - Fescues are some of the most heat-tolerant cool-season grasses 

Overseeding

 - Can be paired with other cool-season species

 

Different Types of Fescue Grass

As you prepare your lawn, it’s crucial to decide on the seed variety that works best for you, your climate, and your maintenance needs.

There are two main types of fescue (tall and fine) that create five different varieties overall: turf-type tall fescue, sheep, creeping red, chewings, and hard.

Turf-Type Tall Fescue

Turf-type is the most commonly planted tall fescue grass because of its durability and low water needs. It is heat-, drought-, and shade-tolerant which helps it grow in nearly all weather conditions. 

 

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This cool-season grass species is in parks, lawns, and sports fields. It’s a great grass for these locations since it requires little maintenance and can handle high-traffic areas.

Growing Conditions

The best time to plant tall fescue lawns is during the fall and spring since these months usually are cooler and the influx of rain helps the seedlings germinate.

Germination usually happens in 10-15 days. After that, allow the seeds to grow for a couple of weeks before you try to mow your lawn.

Once it’s grown and is ready to mow, set your mower to 2” -3” during the cooler months and 3” -4” during the hot, dry months to prevent burning.

Tall fescue may go dormant (i.e., turns brown) to preserve the plant’s energy during periods of heat and drought.

Main Benefit of Turf-Type Tall Fescue

The biggest benefit of using turf-type tall fescue is that you’ll have minimal maintenance and care, besides regularly mowing your lawn.

 

Sheep Fescue (Fine)

Sheep fescue is the first of four fine fescue seed varieties on this list. Fine fescue differs from tall fescue in that it has a much thinner blade, excels in shaded areas, and has a wild “meadow” look when unmowed.

 

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Sheep fescue is a dark green grass that naturally bunches. It is hearty and can outlive other cool-season grasses. In large groupings, sheep fescue sometimes has a slight grey or blue tint depending on the variety and combination.

Growing Conditions

Given its durability and strength, sheep fescue grows well in various conditions.  

As sheep fescue goes dormant in hot weather, you may find weeds sprouting in between bunches.

Ensure you get rid of the weeds before the cooler months come around. Otherwise, they will kill your healthy sheep fescue.

You can mow your fescue lawn shorter than tall fescues–2” all year round.

Main Benefit of Sheep Fescue

Sheep fescue is the preferred seed for erosion control in the fescue family. Because it grows well and establishes strong, deep roots, it keeps soil in its place and preserves the look and health of your lawn. 

 

Creeping Red Fescue (Fine)

Creeping red fescue is excellent fine fescue for sod. Its quick-establishing roots use rhizomes to spread along the ground, giving it the creeping moniker in its name.

 

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Although the dominant color is dark green, the tips of some blades have a natural red color, giving it the name red fescue.

Growing Conditions

Although the previous fescue seeds do well in shaded areas, creeping red fescue thrives in shaded regions. 

Creeping red fescue grows faster than tall fescue and other fine fescue grasses, making it a great seed to blend with since it can hold the soil down and give other grasses time to germinate.

It’s essential to overseed with creeping red fescue because it is the first kind of fescue to go dormant, since its roots stay near the surface.

Main Benefit of Creeping Red Fescue

The main benefit of creeping red fescue is its outstanding shade tolerance and sod-forming habit. This makes it ideal for growing under trees or as a cabin grass in a forested area.

 

Chewings Fescue (Fine)

Chewings fescue is similar to creeping red fescue, except it does not creep, meaning that it doesn’t have rhizomes, and it grows upright, unlike other fine fescues.  

 

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Chewings fescue is a bit more fragile than other fescues, so it’s not the best choice for high-traffic areas. However, chewings fescue grows well on sandy, poor-quality soils.

Growing Conditions

When it comes to growing conditions, chewings fescue shares many of the same traits as the other fine fescues. It can handle poor soils, shade, and occasional drought.

Main Benefit of Chewings Fescue

One of the main benefits of chewings fescue is that you can mow your lawn shorter (1.5”) than other fescues, meaning you’ll have more time between mows. Or you can leave chewings fescue unmowed for a more natural meadow-like look.

 

Hard Fescue (Fine)

Hard fescue is a thin-bladed grass that grows slowly and requires little maintenance. It has a beautiful blue-green coloring similar to Kentucky Bluegrass. 

 

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This type of fine fescue is more heat tolerant than the other fine varieties. It also happens to be more salt, drought, and disease tolerant. Additionally, hard fescue quickly grows in poor soils (like sand) or under heavy shade.

Growing Conditions

When you plant hard fescue, you want to give it time to germinate, so limit foot traffic and harsh conditions. The germination process usually takes 10-15 days, but there is hardly any maintenance once it roots.

All you need for hard fescue is the occasional mowing and watering to keep it out of dormancy.

Main Benefit of Hard Fescue

The main benefit of hard fescue is the “Set it and forget it” mentality. As long as you give the grass side enough time to germinate, you don’t have much work to do afterward. So, golf courses commonly use hard fescue on their putting greens.

 

Beautify Your Lawn With a Variety of Fescue Grass Seed

Fescue grass is a highly durable grass that is great for most climates in the United States. Whether you deal with cold or warm temperatures, fescue grass uses its deep root system to find nutrients and water to stay alive. 

However, be aware that fescue browns in climates that get extremely hot. And, this grass type requires overseeding every 2-3 years for best results.

Whether you want to plant one type of fescue or use a fescue grass seed blend specifically made for your region, you can find the highest quality seed at Nature’s Seed. Get your seed today and notice the difference in your lawn.

Grass seeds in stock and on order

AP30 Vika Grossheim
Able to enrich the soil with nitrogen, improve the physical and mechanical properties of soils. 		negotiable
Buy
AP01 White clover
Honey plant. Excellent for sowing both Mauritanian lawns and green manure for the restoration of unproductive lands. 		210 000 ₽
Buy
AP02 Yellow sweet clover
Plant with developed root system. Used for landscaping unsuitable lands, in regions with unfavorable climatic conditions. 		150 000 ₽
Buy
AP12 Hedgehog assembly
Due to its ability to grow on very dry soils, it is suitable for fixing eroded soils, grassing lawns on slopes along roads. 		190 000 ₽
Buy
AP10 Comb-shaped broad-eared wheatgrass
One of the most resistant grasses to severe soil and climatic conditions of growth. Suitable for landscaping road slopes, railway embankments. 		210 000 ₽
Buy
AP11 Siberian wheatgrass
Grass of wheatgrass with a high level of frost resistance and drought resistance. 		210 000 ₽
Buy
AP09 Narrow-eared wheatgrass
Highly resistant to heat, drought, frost, unpretentious to soil composition. Suitable for strengthening the slopes of embankments of roads. 		210 000 ₽
Buy
AP41 Canary grass
Grows on different types of soil, is highly resistant to frost. 		280 000 ₽
Buy
AP42 Alexandrian clover
Grows on a wide range of soils, including saline ones. 		negotiable
Buy
AP43 White creeping clover
Frost-resistant plant for landscaping and reclamation. Lawn varieties are short growing. 		750 000 ₽
Buy
AP44 Incarnate crimson clover
Adapts well to a wide range of soil and climatic conditions. 		negotiable
Buy
AP48 Red clover
Can be used for sowing on disturbed land restoration sites, saturating the soil with nitrogen. 		200 000 ₽
Buy
AP45 Persian Clover
Grows on a wide range of soils in the pH range of 5.5 to 9including salted ones. 		negotiable
Buy
AP46 Pink hybrid clover
Enriches the soil with nitrogen, adapts well to different types of soil. 		250 000 ₽
Buy
AP47 Clover similar
Frost-resistant and drought-resistant plant. Grows on a wide range of soils. 		negotiable
Buy
AP53 Oriental goat's rue
Highly productive crop. It is sown in places with a low level of soil fertility and high levels of humidity. 		130 000 ₽
Buy
AP29 Rump (bonfire) awnless
Suitable for sowing in the conditions of the Far North. Lawn grass forms a dense turf. 		260 000 ₽
Buy
AP03 Meadow foxtail
Tolerates flooding by hollow waters, has a high level of winter hardiness. 		670 000 ₽
Buy
AP04 Cane foxtail
Frost-resistant, drought-resistant, turf-forming plant, suitable for slope reinforcement. 		negotiable
Buy
AP49 Soddy meadow (pike)
The lawn has a significant level of shade tolerance and wear resistance. 		negotiable
Buy
AP31 Alfalfa yellow
In hot and dry conditions, it provides high-protein feed, rich in all the nutrients necessary for animals. 		negotiable
Buy
AP33 Variegated Alfalfa
The most popular fodder grass. Gives high yields of high-quality, nutritious feed. 		350 000 ₽
Buy
AP32 Blue alfalfa
Highly productive, protein-rich fodder crop for hay and pasture use. 		350 000 ₽
Buy
AP50 Horned Loot
Can tolerate flooding, grow on acidic and salty soils. 		negotiable
Buy
AP05 Alpine bluegrass
Suitable for alpine lawns, landscaping and planting in northern hemisphere regions. 		negotiable
Buy
AP06 Marsh bluegrass
Used for landscaping and reclamation of swampy areas and soils with high levels of moisture. 		negotiable
Buy
AP07 Meadow grass meadow
An indispensable component of high-quality lawn grass mixture. It is used both for landscaping and reclamation, and for fodder purposes. 		700 000 ₽
Buy
AP08 Common bluegrass
Universal plant for sowing wear-resistant lawns, land reclamation in regions with a humid and cold climate. 		negotiable
Buy
AP28 Wallis Fescue
Creates a grass cover that is resistant to wear, trampling and protects the soil from wind erosion. 		negotiable
Buy
AP23 Eastern fescue
Suitable for reclamation of unproductive lands and grassing of erosion-prone places. 		negotiable
Buy
AP26 Red fescue
Universal grass for high-quality gardening and soil recultivation, sowing lawns in harsh, cold climates. 		460 000 ₽
Buy
AP27 Rigid red fescue
A popular component of grass mixtures for sowing high-quality lawns for landscape gardening and sports fields. 		540 000 ₽
Buy
AP25 Meadow fescue
Universal grass for landscaping and soil recultivation, sowing lawns in frosty and arid climates. 		210 000 ₽
Buy
AP24 Sheep's fescue
Excellent for seeding low-growing lawns that do not require frequent mowing. 		680 000 ₽
Buy
AP22 Cane fescue
An indispensable component of grass mixtures for landscaping and soil reclamation in regions with a hot and arid climate. 		400 000 ₽
Buy
AP37 Giant bentgrass
Will provide a beautiful, dense, quality lawn suitable for low mowing. 		negotiable
Buy
AP38 Shooting bentgrass
Lawn grass forms a delicate, soft cover and does not require frequent mowing. 		1 200 000 ₽
Buy
AP36 Thin bentgrass
Used for landscaping in combination with other lawn grasses. 		negotiable
Buy
AP16 Rootless wheatgrass
Grows in a wide soil-climatic range, in the forest-steppe and steppe zones in the Far East, Western and Eastern Siberia. 		195 000 ₽
Buy
AP13 Creeping couch grass
Strong plant, suitable for landscaping and strengthening embankments and slopes. 		195 000 ₽
Buy
AP14 Blue wheatgrass
Resistant to extreme climatic conditions - has exceptional winter hardiness and drought resistance. 		195 000 ₽
Buy
AP15 Wheatgrass elongated
Can grow on soils with sulphate and chloride salinity, able to tolerate flooding with sea water. 		195 000 ₽
Buy
AP18 French high ryegrass
Grows on different types of soil, including medium-heavy; has a high level of frost resistance. 		negotiable
Buy
AP19 Multi-cut ryegrass (multi-flowered chaff)
Forms a dense, stable sod. It is used for landscaping and strengthening slopes. 		negotiable
Buy
AP20 Annual ryegrass
Due to its high germination rate, it is included in lawn grass mixtures for quick greening. 		160 000 ₽
Buy
AP21 Perennial ryegrass (English multi-flowered chaff)
Widely used for landscaping, included in lawn grass mixtures. 		200 000 ₽
Buy
AP52 Chamomile
Medicinal raw materials, used in the food industry, cosmetology and other fields. 		negotiable
Buy
AP34 Timothy grass Bertolini
Low-growing lawn grass that forms a dense, stable sod layer. 		negotiable
Buy
AP35 Meadow timothy grass
Unpretentious lawn grass that tolerates winters well. It is widely used in landscaping and land reclamation works. 		190 000 ₽
Buy
AP17 Sainfoin
Alternative to alfalfa and clover. It can be used for grassing slopes, reclamation of lands with sandy soils. 		110 000 ₽
Buy

How to determine the quality of lawn grass seeds before sowing.

Currently, there is a boom in the creation of lawns near country houses and cottage settlements, urban and roadside gardening is developing massively. For a beautiful lawn that will delight you for a long time, you need high-quality lawn grass seeds. They should not have weed impurities, which will be difficult to remove from an already finished lawn. Seeds must be completely healthy, free of diseases, fungi, garbage and foreign objects are not allowed in the bag. But how to determine all this - how to recognize the quality of seeds without sowing them?

First of all, you need to pay attention to the containers in which seeds are sold. Manufacturers sell their goods either in kraft bags or in polypropylene bags. The kraft bag is always tightly sewn with thread on a special machine, and the polypropylene bag must be sealed.

Do not take a bag that is sealed with adhesive tape - it means that it has already been opened and checked for mold, or something similar, in case the seeds were stored incorrectly, for example, the bag got wet and the contents were poured into another.

Pay attention to the label, which MUST be on the bag. The label must contain the full composition of the grass mixture, and not just the name - Sports or Shade Tolerant. A good company does not make secrets from the composition of the grass mixture.

For example, the composition of an amateur sports turf should include the seeds of meadow grass (Poa Pratensis) - from 25 to 35%, perennial ryegrass (Lolium Perenne) from 20 to 30%, red fescue (Festuca Rubra) from 30 to 40% . A small presence of meadow fescue is possible (no more than 10%). In mixtures for professional sports grounds, the bluegrass content must be at least 50%.

Lawn for shady places is in great demand. It should include a little more than half (up to 55%) of red fescue, the remaining seeds of sheep fescue, cane, hairy fescue and perennial ryegrass.

Lawn for the "lazy" (dwarf), which does not need to be cut often, should consist of 30% meadow grass, the composition should include red fescue and bentgrass shoots, especially if this lawn is for professional golf courses.

The most beautiful lawn is parterre lawn. It consists of no more than 20% of perennial ryegrass, the rest is equal proportions of bluegrass meadow, red fescue, bent grass.

All these lawn mixtures are resistant to trampling and significant physical exertion, and therefore it is necessary to pay attention that these grass mixtures do not contain such ugly, with low resistance to trampling herbs such as timothy grass, cocksfoot, annual ryegrass, rump - such grasses are only good for mass gardening of roadsides and other roadside areas.

The only GOST in the Russian Federation that defines the quality of lawn grass seeds is GOST R 52325-2005. All other numbers, inscriptions that can be found on the labels are either fake or invalid. According to GOST R 52325-2005, seeds must be collected no more than two years ago. Although in other countries there is no such provision, but after two years, the germination of lawn grass is lost by about 3-4% per year. It is better to take seeds no older than two years.

You should carefully consider the product quality certificate that you should be given when buying seeds.

Their appearance has features that must be taken into account. The certificate must be from Rosselkhoztsentr, or its legally accredited laboratory. It is issued on stamped paper and ONLY for one specific herb! For lawn grass mixtures, only a quality certificate is issued, which must contain certificate numbers for all components of the grass mixture. The certificate must be stamped.

If all this is not in the proposed certificate or quality passport, then we are dealing with false documents.

The seeds themselves in a bag or bag must have a healthy appearance, smell like grass, not mold, straw, branches and other foreign debris are unacceptable. Your best bet is to compare the look of the seeds sprinkled on white paper with the look of the seeds you're sure of, or just look up a photo of them online.

It is also useful to test seeds for germination.

Learn more