Home » Misc » Potting christmas cactus

Potting christmas cactus


Best Potting Mix for a Christmas Cactus

Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera spp., is an easy-care houseplant that rewards with a profusion of holiday blooms.

In our Christmas cactus growing guide, we talk about best practices for indoor cultivation.

Additional articles address inducing dormancy to encourage blooming, as well as understanding aerial root development.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Read on to increase your knowledge of this plant even more as we explore potting mixes and the ingredients that are most beneficial for your Christmas cactus plant.

What You’ll Learn

Let’s start with a glimpse at Schlumbergera in the wild.

The Christmas Cactus in Nature

The natural habitat of Schlumbergera species is the rainforests of South America.

They are epiphytes, plants that use their roots to cling to other plants or rocks for support, while doing no harm to their host.

Their sole sources of sustenance are the air, rainfall, and leaf litter that collects around them.

And although one might think that tropical flora thrives on constant moisture, the roots of Christmas cacti need to be well aerated, so they never oversaturate and rot.

Potting Mix Essentials

Once we understand the conditions under which a plant grows in nature, we can begin to replicate the environment for indoor gardening.

For the Christmas cactus, this means that we need to meet four basic needs:

  1. Provide support in the form of a pot and substrate, such as soil or a soilless potting medium, to hold plants upright.
  2. Supply nutrition because there is no leaf litter.
  3. Deliver water, as there is no rainfall.
  4. Inhibit oversaturation via optimal airflow and adequate drainage.

These requirements can be fulfilled with proper care and a combination of appropriate substrates with or without a soil base.

A Soil-Based Approach

When you buy a plant, it’s growing in a medium that has supported its growth to this point.

And while Schlumbergera likes to be snug and even a bit root bound, there may come a day when you want to give yours a bigger pot, or refresh the medium in the current pot.

Now before you head out to the garden for supplemental soil, consider this:

Ground soil can be used for your Christmas cactus, but it may be deficient in nutrients and heavy in consistency, and will require some amendments.

The horticultural pros at New Mexico University recommend amending it with organic matter such as compost, as well as sand or fine gravel, to enrich and loosen it, so that it drains well.

In addition, they suggest heating the soil (in an outdoor location because it will have an odor) at a temperature of 160°F for 30 minutes to sterilize it before use. The sterilization process inhibits pests and diseases that may pose a threat to plant health.

A useful formula for a soil-based potting mix is:

Combine thoroughly and fill a pot that has holes in the bottom for drainage.

This is an airy, balanced, organically-rich blend that drains exceptionally well. It is unlikely to harbor pests, diseases, or weed seeds after sterilization.

An alternative is to go soilless.

Soilless Resources

You can avoid soil altogether by making a lightweight combination of substrate materials that nourishes, allows air to circulate, and drains well.

Organically-rich mediums like compost, peat, and worm castings are rich in nutrients, but they can be quite dense.

Amendments such as perlite (a volcanic rock), sphagnum moss, and vermiculite (a mineral), are widely used to turn dense matter into a fluffy blend loaded with air pockets that drains well, while still retaining an ample supply of water.

Coconut coir in the form of chopped coconut husks is another common additive that creates gaps for airflow and drainage, and it also absorbs copious amounts of water.

And finally, fir and pine bark also facilitate airflow and drainage, but neither retains as much water as the other materials. This is advantageous for an epiphyte that is unused to perpetually wet pot life.

When added to amended organically-rich matter, materials such as charcoal, fine gravel, horticultural pumice, and sand can help to further loosen, aerate, and drain.

Another element that often supplements substrate blends is limestone. It regulates the pH when acidic organic matter like peat and bark are present. Christmas cacti require a moderately acidic pH, in the 5. 7 to 6.5 range.

When you browse garden center shelves or shop online, you’ll be bombarded by products with various combinations of the ingredients listed above. Among them, you’ll find concoctions specifically designed for cacti and succulents, as well as orchids.

It would be natural to gravitate toward a cactus and succulent option, but Schlumbergera is a rainforest epiphyte, not a desert cactus. This type of product usually contains perlite or vermiculite, the water hogs of the amendments.

Moving along in your shopping, you’ll find options designed for orchids. Most orchids are also epiphytes, and products for them generally contain coconut coir or bark chips.

Bark is the quickest drying of the water-absorbing materials. Both bark and coir disintegrate and compact over time, but work well when combined with other ingredients.

Why not take advantage of the best features of products made for both cacti and orchids, and adjust their tendency to oversaturate with a third additive?

A handy formula for a soilless potting mix, ideal for your Christmas cactus is:

Thoroughly combine and fill a container with adequate drainage holes.

This blend is texturally-rich, so it’s airy and lightweight. This gives the roots room to breathe, and excess water drains away with ease.

Where to Buy

Ready to make your own soilless potting mix? Here’s where to get the ingredients:

There are numerous cactus and succulent products available, but I particularly like Tank’s-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix.

Tank’s-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix

This product combines horticultural pumice, coconut coir, and organic compost.

Find Tank’s-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix now in 1.5-cubic foot packages from Arbico Organics.

For the orchid mix, this all-natural product contains a mixture of charcoal, coconut chips (coir), pine bark, and sponge rock (perlite).

Orchid Potting Mix

Find all-natural Orchid Potting Mix now in 1-, 4-, and 8-quart packages from Perfect Plants via Amazon.

And to optimize aeration and drainage, horticultural pumice is an ideal option.

Horticultural Grade Pumice

You can find Horticultural Grade Pumice now in 2.5-dry-quart packages from the Succulent Cult via Amazon.

A Custom Fit

It’s just like with people. Sometimes, one size just doesn’t fit all – especially when your name says cactus, but you’re really an epiphyte unaccustomed to having your feet in the dirt, let alone when it’s wet. Geez!

With a nutrient-rich, aerated, well-draining substrate for support and sustenance, tailored specifically to its needs, your Christmas cactus can enjoy its best indoor life.

Do you use a soil-based or soilless potting mix for your Christmas cactus? Share your tips in the comments section below!

If you found this article informative, you’re sure to enjoy these additional articles on Christmas cacti next:

© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Perfect Plants, and The Succulent Cult. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.

How and When To Repot

Although called a cactus, the Christmas cactus is not like desert-dwelling cacti. This type of cactus is native to a jungle setting and is an epiphyte that grows high in tropical jungles’ treetops.

Pin

Christmas cactus blooms in the wintertime and produces gorgeous flowers in a wide range of shades, including:

Christmas cactus is a bit faster growing than desert cactus and will need repotting more often. In this article, we discuss how and when you should repot your Christmas cactus.

Related: Why Doesn’t My Christmas Cactus Flower?

Does Christmas Cactus Need Repotting Every Year?

Although these are reasonably quick-growing plants, you may not need to repot your Christmas cactus annually. The plants do well when the roots are a bit root-bound. If you repot too often, you could damage your plant.

How Often Should I Repot Christmas Cactus?

Christmas cactus only needs repotting once every three or four years. If the plant looks a bit weary or the roots begin to grow out the bottom of the current container, your plant is ready for repotting.

When Should You Repot Christmas Cactus?

Springtime is the typical time for repotting most plants, but Christmas cactus blooms during winter and needs repotting immediately after the blooms fade. Never repot your Christmas cactus while it is blooming.

How Do You Repot Christmas Cactus?

Take care when repotting your Christmas cactus because its limbs and leaves are a bit delicate. If you have a large, heavy plant, you may want to trim it back and take cuttings before you repot.

Additionally, lightly wrapping Christmas cactus with lightweight fabric can help prevent breakage.

Get everything ready in advance so that you can transplant your cactus quickly and easily without too much fuss.

You’ll need:

Christmas Cactus Soil Mixes

You want a light, airy, well-draining potting mix for this epiphyte.

Soil mixtures made for succulents or bromeliads are ideal.

You can also make your own Christmas cactus mix using two parts high-quality potting mix and one part sand.

Another option is a mixture of equal parts packaged garden soil, coarse sand/gravel, and peat moss.

Never use soil that comes directly from your garden as it may contain bacteria, fungi, and viruses that would harm your Christmas cactus.

Container

Take care not to give your Christmas cactus a pot that is too big. Just move up to the next size pot. Make sure that the container you choose has lots of drainage holes.

Good drainage is a must. Christmas cactus is a moisture-loving plant, like most epiphytes, but it cannot stand in water. Use the soak and dry watering method whereby you pour water through light, airy soil and allow it to become almost dry before the next watering.

If the soil stays too wet, root rot will set in.

Follow These Steps in the Repotting Process:

1. To repot your Christmas cactus, begin by preparing the foliage as described above.

2. Put an inch or two of fresh soil mix in the bottom of the new pot.

3. Gently remove the plant from its original pot. Take care not to rip it from the soil. Instead, try to remove the root ball intact.

4. Once you have the plant out of the pot, massage the roots to loosen them and remove old soil. If the original potting mixture is quite compacted, rinse the roots gently to remove the soil.

5. Place your Christmas cactus in its new pot so that the top part of the root ball is approximately 1″ inch below the top of the new pot.

6. Pat the soil down lightly so that no air pockets remain.

7. Water your Christmas cactus moderately and place it in a low-light location for a couple of days. Once your plant has settled into its new pot, you can begin caring for it as usual.

NOTE: Too much direct sunlight can burn or bleach the leaves.

Do Your Best to Replicate Christmas Cactus’ Natural Environment

Just remember that Christmas cactus grows from nooks and crannies and treetops of tropical jungle settings in the wild. Their soil consists of natural compost composed of decaying tree leaves, bark, twigs, and similar items.

In the wild, these plants receive lots of water that runs straight through their substrate. The roots dry out and get plenty of air every day.

The closer you can replicate these conditions, the better off your Christmas cactus will be.

Christmas cactus as a gift for the New Year. Delivery in Moscow | News

Decembrist is a popular variety of cacti that got its name from its flowering in December. In the people, this indoor flower is often called the Christmas cactus. It has a popular favorite and other names: Schlumberger's zygocactus, Varvarin color, cancer neck. Under natural conditions, it grows on tropical trees, mainly on roots, trunk, low branches.

This plant does not need a large pot, 1 liter is sufficient. The pot must be installed in a tray, and preferably on a windowsill with a northeast orientation.

In summer: Forest cactus must be well watered so that the water passes through the ground and wets it well. Feed the green thorn every month with fertilizer for cacti. When planting a Decembrist, the earth must be used nutritious, adding a little river sand to it or ready-made soil for cacti. In summer, my plants grow on the balcony. As soon as the temperature on the balcony drops below +10, the Decembrists must be moved to the windowsill, and always away from the radiators and batteries.

In September, the watering of the plants is gradually reduced and feeding is stopped - the flowers need a dormant period for the formation of buds. The optimum room temperature for the Decembrist is +15 degrees. The flower grows well in the shade and partial shade. In November, buds appear on the Decembrist. Now the plant needs abundant watering and spraying. Decembrist blooms from November to April. The flowers of the plant react to the ambient temperature - the lower the temperature, the richer the color of the flower. Coloring is the most diverse: beige, red, pink, orange. To stimulate the growth of the Decembrist, the flower pot must be rotated regularly. But, during flowering, on the contrary, touching the pot is categorically not recommended, this adversely affects the flowers.

Propagate the plant after flowering. It is necessary to separate 2 - 3 cuttings from a large bush and put them to take root in a moist substrate, covering with a transparent glass. Send the cuttings to a cool, shady place. There is a second way: after you have broken off 3 cuttings of the Decembrist, let it dry for 2-3 days, and only after that plant it - this way you will avoid rotting of the cutting. Transplantation of indoor flowers is performed every three years. Don't use an oversized pot. When I transplant a Decembrist, I use a pot 2 cm larger than the previous one.

Interesting facts about the Decembrist

Many folk signs are associated with this plant. If the flowers of the Decembrist bloomed ahead of their time or vice versa later, then pleasant surprises await the owner of the flower. Perhaps a lonely person will find his soul mate, at work they will increase their salary or give them a promotion, they will give you a very good gift ...

At home, Decembrist looks very chic, not whimsical, besides it is safe - not poisonous.

Astrologers advise to definitely grow a plant at home, as the presence of this indoor flower in the house makes people become softer and listen to others, be more open.

Source

A large selection of potted flowers and natural flower arrangements can be found in our online store.

We guarantee favorable prices, high quality of plants and their delivery in Moscow on time.

All plants are hygienically controlled and certified.

For your convenience, use the service: Order a callback

We are on Instagram

We can also put together an exclusive composition for you according to your wishes and within your specific budget!

We can send you photos of the assembled composition via viber, whatsapp or email.

Schlumberger - the good old Christmas man, or Decembrist. Care at room conditions. Photo - Botanichka

The appearance of one of the most famous and common flowering cacti, Schlumbergera, is well known to everyone. The legendary "Decembrist" captivates not only with brightness, but also with an abundance of flowers, predictability of flowering periods, which even compensate for often nondescript greenery. Despite its completely cactus-like character, this succulent plant never goes out of style. It is more suitable for experienced exotic lovers than for beginners, although the temptation is difficult to resist. After all, the chance to treat yourself to bright flowering just in time for the holidays attracts many.

Schlumberger - the good old Christmas, or Decembrist. © Alexey Yakovlev

Schlumbergera is a flowering classic with nostalgic charm

Schlumbergera ( Schlumbergera ) in different years was classified in different genera of cacti, staying in the company of zygocactus the longest. But today, the species name of the plant has finally been decided. Schlumbergers got their name in honor of the French collector and enthusiastic botanist. The botanical "schlumbergera" is inferior in popularity to cute and eloquent folk nicknames. “Rozhdestvennik”, “Christmas cactus”, “Decembrist”, “Varvarin color” - this is what true admirers of her beauty call Schlumberger.

Schlumbergers belong to the Cactaceae family. In nature, they can be admired in the tropical forests of South America, where they are fixed not only on the trunks, but also on the roots of gigantic trees. Schlumbergers are naturally winter-flowering plants, because the peak of their flowering occurs in the summer in the southern hemisphere, corresponding to our winter. Flowering in December-February is natural for them.

Schlumbergers belong to epiphytic cacti. The height of the Schlumberger is limited to 15-50 cm, depending on the containers, the formation strategy or its absence. Shoots can stretch even stronger, but only in a neglected state. Flat, jointed, hard, fleshy shoots with a rather dark color flaunt a surprisingly beautiful relief, thanks to a coarsely serrated or scalloped edge.

They hang down, curving in arcs, sparsely, but beautifully divided, reminiscent of other ampelous cacti. Stem segments from 3 to 10 cm long look elegant. Dark, rich colors are emphasized by a shiny surface. Halos are located between the teeth and on the tops, most often they are pubescent.

Abundant flowering of Schlumbergera is not accidentally compared with rhododendrons. At the peak of flowering, the plant is strewn with so many bright flowers that almost no attention is paid to greenery. Schlumberger flowers bloom at the ends of the shoots, developing amazingly quickly. They look like stars and in many ways are typical of all cacti.

Multi-tiered and long-tubular, asymmetrical, Schlumbergera flowers flaunt not only lanceolate, pointed perianth lobes, intricately bent back, but also long “bunches” of graceful, hanging stamens. Schlumbergera has “daytime” flowers that open during daylight hours.

Schlumbergera's color palette is associated with scarlet and hot pink. It is a brightly colored plant and often looks very attractive in winter interiors. But today this plant is also white-flowered, and purple, and variegated-bicolor, although the palette remains mainly within the white-red spectrum. New hybrids have expanded the set of familiar pastel and bright colors with interesting fruity yellow shades.

The Schlumberger bloom period traditionally coincides with your favorite Christmas holidays, starting in December and lasting for more than one week. Schlumbergera almost relentlessly releases flower after flower. With proper care, you can admire the flowering until the end of January.

Flowering dates can be changed, often Christmas flowers bloom at other times and on their own, because the beginning of flowering directly depends not only on temperature, but also on lighting. Some cultivars have been bred with "specified", excellent timing, or longer, but not winter, blooms. That is why Schlumbergers are advised to buy in bloom, so that you can appreciate the rhythms familiar to the plant.

Schlumbergera Buckley (Schlumbergera x bucklei). © Sean Benham Schlumbergera Gartner (Schlumbergera gaertneri). © Rare Seeds and Plants Schlumbergera russelliana. ©
squirrelbasket

Types of indoor Schlumberger

Old, prone to loss of decorative shoots, not so densely branched and not so diverse in color, Schlumbergers of the “Soviet times” have long been a thing of the past. They were supplanted by new hybrid varieties that made the common plant fashionable and modern.

Of course, Schlumbergera is still most often perceived as an outdated, retro culture, but in interiors it does not at all look like a nostalgic relic. Species plants as indoor plants are becoming less common today, or the type of plant is not indicated at all, replaced by the simple Latin name of the Schlumbergera plant and the name of the variety.

Some of the most ornamental species of Schlumbergera used in hybridization include:

Schlumbergera Buckley ( Schlumbergera x bucklei ) - epiphytic cactus with branched flat shoots of a dark color with an emerald tint. With a maximum height of 50 cm, it is distinguished by cylindrical, fleshy stems, flat segments with slightly pronounced teeth and fluffy areoles. The flowers are large, up to 8 cm long, with a very unusual yellowish tube. Varieties differ not only in shades of color - white, yellow, pink, purple, but even in the size and shape of the segments, allowing you to choose classic or more original plants to your liking.

Schlumbergera gaertneri ( Schlumbergera gaertneri ) showy red-flowering species with less neat stems. The segments grow up to 8 cm, the bushes are not as thick as in other species. The orange-red flowers with a wider tube appear like blazing stars due to the highly elongated petals.

Schlumbergera russelliana ( Schlumbergera russelliana ) - more modest in size, but not in appearance, with a maximum height of up to 30 cm. Flat, bright green, with warm shades of color, shoots can stretch up to 1 m in length. Scalloped the edge makes the flat segments very beautiful, as do the hairy areoles from which the drooping flowers develop. With a length of only up to 4 cm, the stem segments appear almost translucent due to the darker central vein. The flowers are large, showy, with a light green tube and a large number of petals. The colors of this type of Schlumberger are limited to pink-red variations.

Schlumbergera truncata ( Schlumbergera truncata ) is a powerful succulent with drooping, jointed shoots, gaining strength with age and growing up to 50 cm in height. This type of Schlumbergera looks very elegant due to the fact that the shoot segments rarely exceed 5 cm with half the width, they are as close as possible to the leaves in their shape. Pronounced teeth alternate with areoles emphasized by thin bristles, which are repeated on the tops of the shoots. Flat shoots are bent in arcs and are painted in a rich bright green, on young branches a swampy tone. Flowers emphasize the accuracy of the structure. With a diameter of up to 5 cm, they are more symmetrical than other Schlumbergers, with a very long curved tube and a wide-open rim. Varieties of this species offer a choice between white-pink-red-lilac shades.

Schlumbergera truncated (Schlumbergera truncata). © Marise Caetano

Growing conditions for Schlumbergera

Schlumbergera, despite its golden classic status, has never been a "for everyone" plant. Only flower growers with some experience in growing tropical species should decide to grow a Decembrist, and even then, provided that it is possible to provide the coolness necessary for wintering. But the strict requirements for the dormant period are compensated by the ability to choose differently lit places, and a wide temperature range for the period of active growth.

The dormant period of Schlumbergera at traditional flowering dates lasts from September to the end of November. The plant will not be able to bloom without cool conditions during the dormant period.

Lighting and placement

Despite its status as a beautiful flowering plant, Schlumbergera is not as light-loving as most competitors. It develops best in diffused lighting, and with careful care, it can even settle in partial shade. Of course, in strong shading, the plant will not bloom. But it is not at all necessary to place a Schlumberger only on the windowsill.

The plant does not like direct sun, the rays leave burns on the shoots and lead to a rapid loss of decorativeness. Seasonal reduction in lighting in winter, coinciding with the flowering period, it is desirable to compensate by moving to brighter places. Schlumbergers prefer to bloom on the brightest window sill in the house - the southern one.

Schlumbergera can be grown both as a pot plant and as a hanging plant, using drooping shoots to create beautiful cascades. But it is always placed below the viewpoint so that the view of the cactus bushes falls from top to bottom. Schlumbergers are good in group plantings, collections of cacti and tropical plants.

Temperature control and ventilation

Despite belonging to tropical cacti, Schlumbergera is not at all as thermophilic as it seems. For her, there is no need to strictly select the temperature, because the plant is able to cope with both heat and coolness. During the period of active growth, she is quite comfortable at any temperature from 18 to 30 degrees.

During the dormant period, the Schlumberger should enjoy comfortable coolness. Compliance with temperature regimes plays a key role in stimulating flowering. For Schlumbergera, the air temperature should remain within the range of 10 to 15 degrees. Schlumbergera is kept cool for 2–3 months, then returned to heat to start the process of active growth. If the plant is grown with the usual December flowering, then Schlumbergera should be brought back into the heat in early December.

Schlumbergera can be taken out into the garden or onto balconies in summer. The plant loves fresh air, but is afraid of too bright lighting, and in the garden for a cactus, you need to choose semi-shady or shady locations.

Schlumbergera is not as light-requiring as most competitors. © Joey Martoni

Schlumbergera home care

Compared to other cacti, Schlumbergera is hardly a simple plant. We have to adjust the watering in accordance with its stage of development, ensure constant monitoring for traces of emerging problems and do not forget about the formation. Love for high humidity also does not make it easier to grow this crop.

Watering and air humidity

Unlike most cacti, Schlumbergera is quite moisture-loving. She loves abundant watering during the period of active growth, requires more frequent watering and tolerates drying out of the soil and improper watering much worse than ordinary succulents. But at the same time it remains a true succulent in its fear of getting wet and damp.

Schlumbergera should be watered carefully, with small portions of water, soaking the soil evenly and immediately draining excess water from the pallets, in no case soaking the shoots. Before the next watering, you need to make sure that the top of the substrate is dry.

For the dormant period, watering is reduced to a minimum, starting from September, gradually reducing these procedures, the increased humidity of the substrate at this time is critically dangerous. Resume abundant watering with the appearance of buds. After flowering, the Schlumbergers, regardless of whether they transplant or not, keep the plant in a slightly lower humidity for a month or a half, allowing the soil to dry out more, and then resume the usual heavy watering. The soil in the containers should be left almost dry.

For Schlumbergera, water quality will also need to be monitored. It should be soft, settled, a couple of degrees warmer than the soil during the period of active development.

This succulent needs high humidity. Dry air adversely affects the state of greenery. The usual method of increasing humidity for this plant is spraying, but they can only be carried out outside the period of budding and flowering, therefore, during the season of operation of heating systems for Schlumbergera, air humidity must be maintained by installing special devices or pallets with wet moss, expanded clay, stones.

Top dressing and fertilizer composition

For Schlumbergera top dressing can only be carried out outside the dormant period. Since September, fertilization is interrupted, resuming only when the cactus grows again. Too generous top dressing will not benefit the plant: fertilizers are applied either at a halved dosage, or half as often as for ordinary houseplants.

Schlumbergera requires special fertilizers for succulents and cacti. They do not tolerate a high nitrogen content, they need an increased dose of potassium.

For Schlumbergera top dressing can only be carried out outside the dormant period. © Cheryl Wright

Pruning and shaping Schlumberger

Schlumberger will never develop into lush, elegant bushes without proper thickening. Usually this plant is prone not only to stretching, but also to the loss of the ability to produce side shoots as the number of segments increases.

Schlumbergera requires very simple shaping measures - pinching or breaking off the outermost segments to stimulate the growth of new offshoots. It is not worth cutting off the segments, but a simple rotational movement with a flat segment clamped in your hand is the best option. Break points are not processed.

Schlumberger shaping is best done immediately after flowering.

Over time, the lower part of the shoots becomes woody, but with regular formation, the plant retains its decorative effect for decades.

Replanting Schlumbergera, containers and substrate

Schlumbergera is transplanted only when it has mastered the previous container. For large and adult Schlumbergers, transplantation can be limited to every five years. It is better to transplant shortly after the end of flowering, before the rapid growth of greenery, in extreme cases - in early or mid-spring, during March or April.

When choosing containers for growing Schlumberger, it is better to choose classic pots for epiphytes with a minimum height, in extreme cases - not exceeding the diameter. The brighter the container, the better this plant looks.

Unlike many other species, Schlumbergera cannot grow in poor and too light soil. This plant needs high-quality soil with good nutritional values. You can use special soil for epiphytes or substrates for succulents. The pH should remain within the range of 5.5-6.5.

If the soil is mixed on its own, it is better to use a simple soil mixture of sand, leaf and sod soil in a ratio of 1:2:1 or a mixture of sand and leaf soil. Even in a purchased substrate, it is better to add charcoal as a preventive measure.

When transplanting a plant, it is worth handling both the numerous shoots and the roots of the plant as carefully as possible, trying to avoid contact and carefully handling the cactus.

Diseases, pests and problems in growing Schlumbergera

Schlumberger diseases are threatened by fusarium and rot, and even then with improper care. With a slight lesion, the care correction will have time to stop the process, but with a serious one, it is necessary to cut out the damaged parts and an emergency transplant with fungicide treatment.

Schlumberger pests threaten when kept in dry air. A beautifully flowering cactus is very fond of scale insects and felters, which are best dealt with immediately with insecticidal preparations.

Common Schlumberger growing problems:

Christmas at home can be obtained from simple cuttings

Propagation of Schlumbergera

Schlumbergera has never been included in the lists of elite, expensive plants - first of all, because it is very easy to propagate. A plant at home can be obtained from simple cuttings.

Schlumbergera stem cuttings do not take root too quickly, but there is nothing difficult in the process of growing new plants. The best time for cuttings is similar to the formation period - immediately after flowering is completed. But for rooting, not individual segments are used, but the apical fragments of the stem with 2-3 segments.

Treat the breakage point with charcoal and dry. Schlumbergera cuttings are rooted in light soil or a simple sandy-peat substrate, under a hood with or without regular ventilation, with frequent light watering. Plants develop quite quickly.

Grafting is a cost-effective method of obtaining and maintaining luxurious varietal plants for those who have a large collection of cacti.

Learn more