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Planting potatoes near tomatoes


How To Plant Tomatoes & Potatoes Together (Without Ruining Your Harvest)

In the world of companion planting, there are two vegetable garden favorites that many consider enemies – potatoes and tomatoes. Unfortunately, they are also two of the most common vegetable garden plants for beginners and experienced gardeners alike.

Planting these two veggies together is best avoided. But, if you’re committed to planting both, there are steps you can take to improve your chances of success.

Companion Planting Explained

If you’ve been in the gardening world for a while, you will likely have heard the term ‘companion planting’ at some point. The practice has been commonplace for hundreds of years, but the term itself has only recently gained the massive popularity it has now.

The resurgence of companion planting in the 1970s is thanks to the organic gardening movement. Proponents argued that some plants can improve each other’s growth planted side by side, positively impacting yield without the use of harmful chemicals or unnatural amendments.

Two plants can be companions for a number of reasons. Some release certain chemicals that deter pests of the other plant. Their growth may improve soil composition for the other plant or provide shade overhead at the perfect time of day.

Alternatively, it can be as simple as both plants preferring the same growing conditions, meaning one will not grow effectively at the expense of the other.

Here’s our list of the eight best companion plants to grow with tomatoes and an entire article dedicated to the benefits of planting marigolds with tomatoes.

Does It Really Work?

Not everyone agrees with the principles behind companion planting. There isn’t much solid scientific evidence to back up some of the claims, and some have even labeled it pseudo-science. But, while it hasn’t been proven, there is plenty of anecdotal evidence to go by, as well as some ideas that just make sense.

For example, we can deduce that two plants that prefer different soil conditions or need different levels of water will not grow well when planted next to each other. For the more complex benefits, like pest deterrence, there are plenty of gardeners who have experienced benefits firsthand and even some smaller studies that show positive effects.

Companion planting is not guaranteed to make your plants grow better or stop all pests and diseases from taking hold. However, it does have the ability to improve the growth and yield of your veggie garden when done correctly.

Why Tomatoes And Potatoes Are Bad Companions

One of the first pairings discussed in vegetable gardens is potatoes and tomatoes. Not only are these plants one of the first new gardeners reach for when starting a vegetable patch, but they are also versatile veggies easy to use in the kitchen in a wide range of dishes.

Unfortunately, as many gardeners already know, tomatoes and potatoes are not good companion plants. Most advice strongly warns against planting these two together to avoid the risk of ruining your harvest and potentially other plants in your veggie garden.

There are many reasons for this, but the strongest one is pest and disease-related.

Tomatoes and potatoes are part of the same genus – Solanum – from the Nightshade family (Solanaceae). This means they are susceptible to the same pests and diseases, particularly the incredibly damaging Early Blight and Late Blight.

Planting tomatoes and potatoes together increase your chances of encountering any one of these diseases, spreading to either plant and the other plants in your garden too.

It’s why potatoes feature in our seven worst plants to grow near your tomatoes.

When planted in the same soil, both tomatoes and potatoes also compete for nutrients. Without the right nutrient levels, growth will become stunted and your harvest will be poor from both plants.

Harvesting is also a concern. To harvest potatoes, the plant needs to be pulled from the ground. If kept too close to tomatoes, this process can disturb the tomato root system, causing a host of problems that are incredibly difficult to fix.

What Can You Do About It?

These concerns mean planting these two species together is best avoided. However, many of us have smaller gardens without a lot of space to grow, limiting our options. Maybe you’re one of the picky eaters who will only eat tomatoes and potatoes, leaving you nothing else to plant.

If that is the case, all hope is not lost. With a few conditions met and a keen eye throughout the season, you can successfully grow these plants together without ruining your harvest.

How To Plant Tomatoes and Potatoes Together

Plant Disease Resistant Varieties

Getting the process right starts with your choice of tomato and potato. Thanks to horticulturalists and agriculturalists, there are now many disease-resistant tomato varieties to choose from.

When planting these varieties together, your risk of spreading disease between both plants is limited, reducing one of the major concerns of companion planting with these two species.

As Blight is one of the most common and concerning problems for both tomatoes and potatoes, look for varieties resistant to these diseases specifically. It won’t stop it completely, but these resilient types are less likely to encounter problems. These specialized plants often come with other benefits like higher yield or faster growth too.

These codes will appear on your packet of tomato seeds, indicating their resistance to certain diseases:

Space Them Correctly

To avoid the spread of shared pests and diseases, regular spacing will not be enough for these plants. To ensure sufficient airflow and keep the leaves from coming too close together, a separation of at least 5 feet is recommended, preferably closer to 10 feet if you can manage it.

This spacing also stops the tomatoes from shading the potatoes once fully grown, especially if they are indeterminate varieties. Both plants need a full day of sun – anything less will limit your harvest.

Plant In Raised Beds

Even with sufficient spacing, the expansive root system can still occupy the same space as the potatoes (especially if you follow this tomato planting method that gives the strongest root systems and best harvests).

This close proximately means higher competition for nutrients in the soil, impacting everything from leaf and stem growth to fruit development and your overall harvest. It also means harvesting your potatoes is bound to impact the root system of your tomatoes, disturbing growth and affecting yield.

The best way to keep these two plants close but separate is to plant in separate raised beds.

This isn’t a great way to plant potatoes and tomatoes together.

This popular method allows you to keep the plants contained and in separate soil, eliminating problems with competition and harvesting. You can give each one specialized care while keeping them close by, improving the harvests from both plants.

Water The Soil, Not The Leaves

Diseases are generally more frequent in wet and humid conditions. If water sits on the leaves and fruits for long periods, this increases your chances of fungal or bacterial disease that will then spread to the susceptible neighbor nearby.

Correct watering methods therefore limit this concern, decreasing your risk of encountering disease in the first place. The key is to avoid overhead watering at all costs, avoiding the leaves and fruits and focusing only on the soil. This can be difficult with a hose or watering can, so installing irrigation to water the soil directly is best.

Keeping the plants in full sun and in the right temperatures also increases evaporation, meaning the water does not sit on the leaves for too long. This helps combat periods of high rain where getting water on the leaves cannot be avoided.

Check For Diseases And Pests Often

Your final line of defense is a keen eye. If you catch a disease or pest on either your potatoes or tomatoes early, you can stop its spread to the other plant, saving both harvests at the same time.

Whenever you head out into the garden to water, take your shears with you and inspect the leaves of both plants clearly. Keep an eye on the undersides and areas between leaves and stems.

Remove any pests or signs of disease immediately and use preventative disease sprays to stop their spread. Make sure you clean your shears between uses or you will simply be the catalyst in spreading disease.

Although planting tomatoes and potatoes together is not recommended, it’s not impossible either. With a few preventative measures, you can keep both plants healthy and productive throughout the season.

Can You Grow Potatoes And Tomatoes Together? (Stop It Now!) – greenupside

Since potatoes (solanum tuberosum) and tomatoes (solanum lycopersicum) are the in the same family (nightshade), it makes sense to ask if they can be grown together.  I did some research to see if this is a good idea, and I found some interesting information.

So, can you grow potatoes and tomatoes together?  No, you should not grow potatoes and tomatoes together.  While they are both in the nightshade family, potatoes and tomatoes have different requirements for soil pH.  There are also some diseases, such as early blight and late blight, which are common to both plants and can be spread between potatoes and tomatoes by insects that attack both plants.

Even though you should not plant potatoes and tomatoes together, you can still have both in your garden, provided that you take measures to prevent the spread of disease.  Let’s take a look a closer look at the proper growing conditions for each plant, the common diseases for both, and how to discourage these diseases in your garden.

Reasons Not To Plant Potatoes and Tomatoes Together

There are several reasons not to plant potatoes and tomatoes together.  Let’s start with one of the biggest reasons: soil pH.

Soil pH

Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil pH in the range of 6. 0 to 6.8, similar to most other garden plants.

Tomato plants prefer soil that is only slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.

Potatoes, however, prefer a fairly acidic soil pH of 4.8 to 5.5.

Potato plants prefer a more acidic soil, with a pH from 4.8 to 5.5.

Remember that pH is measured on a logarithmic (exponential) scale, so a pH of 5.0 is ten times as concentrated (acidic) as a pH of 6.0.  Obviously, one or both plants will be unhappy if you try to grow both in the same soil.

You may be wondering why soil pH is so important for plants.  Just remember that the availability of nutrients in the soil depends on the soil pH.  For more information, check out this article from Research Gate, which shows the relationship between soil pH and nutrient availability.

For instance, at a pH of 4.8, calcium is starting to become less available in the soil.  Potatoes might do fine in this type of soil, but tomatoes may end up with blossom end rot, a disease caused by a lack of calcium.

Blossom end rot in tomatoes is caused by a calcium deficiency.

Even worse, this can happen even if there is plenty of calcium in the soil!  Remember that in this case, nutrient deficiency is caused by a pH imbalance, not by a lack of nutrients in the soil.

In short, the difference in pH preference alone is reason enough to plant potatoes and tomatoes separately.

Growth and Harvesting

Even if you managed to get potatoes and tomatoes to grow together in the same soil, you might have trouble growing them to maturity without damaging the tomatoes.  Remember that potatoes have leaves above ground, but the potato tuber itself grows underground.

An early potato harvest can damage the roots of tomato plants if they are planted too close together.

Planted too close to tomatoes, the potatoes can grow large enough to impede the roots of tomato plants.  You may also damage a tomato plant’s roots when harvesting nearby potatoes.

Also, remember that if potatoes and tomatoes are grown close together, there is a much higher chance that disease will be transmitted between the two plants.

Diseases Common To Potato and Tomato Plants

There are two serious diseases common to both potato and tomato plants: early blight and late blight.  Let’s take a closer look at both diseases, including signs and symptoms for each plant.

Early Blight

Early blight is a common disease for tomatoes, affecting their stems, leaves, and fruit.  Despite the name, early blight usually only appears on mature plants.

Symptoms include severe defoliation (loss of leaves) and scarring of fruit.  The spots on fruit are black and leathery, and severely infected fruit may fall from the plant.

For potatoes, signs of early blight include small, dark brown spots on older (lower) leaves.  The disease can cause fewer and smaller potatoes.  The disease may also cause lesions on potato tubers themselves, with parts underneath becoming like leather or cork.

Early blight in both potatoes and tomatoes is caused by the fungus alternaria solani.  A closely related fungus, alternaria tomatophila, can also cause early blight in both plants.   However, alternaria tomatophila is the more common cause of the disease for tomatoes.

It is also worth noting that both fungi can also infect eggplant, which you may not want to plant close to tomatoes or potatoes in your garden.  Peppers, along with eggplants, are also in the nightshade family, along with potatoes and tomatoes.

Generally, early blight develops in warm temperatures, from 59 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  High humidity levels (90% or greater) also encourage growth of early blight, since it is a fungus.

Remember that both alternaria solani and alternaria tomatophila can survive the winter in soil, compost, or other organic matter.  This means that soil may need to be left unplanted for many years to eliminate the disease.

Even worse, early blight can reside in infected potatoes, so if you buy potatoes that are infected and try to plant them after they sprout, you can end up introducing early blight to your garden.

It is also worth noting that you should not compost infected plants.   Instead, burn them or dispose of them immediately.  Since the spores can be spread by wind, rain, irrigation, machinery, or human contact, it is important to identify infected plants early and remove them quickly to prevent the spread of early blight in your garden.

To prevent early blight in the first place, choose disease-resistant varieties of potatoes and tomatoes in the future.

According to the University of Minnesota, some tomato varieties that are resistant to early blight include Iron Lady, Mountain Supreme, and Mountain  Magic.

Also, avoid irrigation in cool, cloudy weather, and water early to allow plants to dry before nightfall.  The longer the leaves stay wet, the better the chance of fungus growth, and thus the more opportunity early blight has to take hold.

For more information, check out this article from the University of Minnesota on early blight in tomatoes and this article from Michigan State University on early blight in potatoes.

Late Blight

Late blight can affect leaves, stems, and fruits of tomato plants.   It can spread very quickly and can be devastating to gardens.  The disease was responsible for the Irish potato famine of 1840.

The oomycete (fungus-like organism) Phytophthora infestans  is the cause of late blight.  The symptoms include large, brown spots on leaves and stems.  Fruits may also develop firm, brown spots.

Eventually, other bacteria can invade the weakened fruit and cause mushiness.  When humidity is high, powdery white fungus appears on infected plants.  With severe late blight infections, a foul odor may be detected.

Late blight will spread most at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, during periods of high humidity.

The disease can survive over the winter, but is not as likely to do so as early blight.  In light of this, do not compost any infected plants.  Instead, burn them or dispose of them immediately.

Late blight can produce thousands of spores in less than a week, potentially infecting your entire garden’s potato and tomato crop, along with those of neighboring gardens.

The best way to avoid late blight is to cultivate disease-resistant varieties of potatoes and tomatoes.  According to the University of Minnesota, tomato varieties that are resistant to late blight include Mountain Magic, Plum Regal, and Iron Lady.

You should also inspect established tomato plants that you purchase, in order to ensure that they are not infected with late blight.  Also, be sure to water at the bottom of plants – avoid getting the leaves wet, and avoid watering late in the day so that the plant does not stay wet overnight.

For more information, check out this article from the University of Minnesota on late blight and this article from the University of Maryland on late blight.

How To Use Crop Rotation to Prevent Disease In Your Garden

The best way to discourage early blight, late blight, and other diseases in your garden is to employ crop rotation.  Crop rotation simply means that you do not plant the same crop in the same location two years in a row.

Sometimes, crop rotation calls for 3 or even 4 year rotation cycles.  For instance, you might plant leaves (lettuce), fruits (tomatoes), roots (carrots), and legumes (peas) in each of the four years in your crop rotation cycle.

Including peas in your crop rotation can help to prevent disease – they also help to add nitrogen to the soil.

Even though potatoes (roots) and tomatoes (fruits) are in different categories, they should not be planted in the same area in successive years.  If you want to grow all 4 common nightshade plants (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant) in your garden, here is a crop rotation method you can use.

Peppers are another good plant to add to your crop rotation. Like potatoes and tomatoes, they are in the nightshade family.

First, split your garden into 16 equal sections: 4 rows by 4 columns.  Assign one plant to each row, depending on growing requirements such as sunlight and pH (remember our discussion of soil pH earlier!)  Be sure to keep the tomatoes and potatoes far apart to prevent the spread of disease between the two.   For instance:

Row 1 – tomatoes

Row 2 – peppers

Row 3 – eggplant

Row 4 – potatoes

Then, assign a different column to each plant.  For instance:

Column 1 – tomatoes

Column 2 – potatoes

Column 3 – eggplant

Column 4 – potatoes

Plant each crop in the correct section, based on its row and column.  Every year after that, you should move each plant one column to the right.  (If a plant is already at the far right, move it to the far left).

This prevents the spread of early and late blight between potatoes and tomatoes, and ensures that there are four years between plantings of these crops in the same area.

Conclusion

By now, you should have a better understanding of why it is a bad idea to plant potatoes and tomatoes too close together.  Not only do they require different soil pH levels, but they also share diseases that can spread between the plants easily.

I hope you found this article helpful – if so, please share it with someone who will find the information helpful.   If you have any questions or advice of your own on potatoes, tomatoes, and crop rotation, please leave a comment below.

whether it is possible tomato and other vegetable crops

Each crop has its own growth characteristics. An important aspect in the life of every gardener should be the moment: which plants can be planted nearby, and which ones should be kept away. A good neighborhood can not only protect against plant pests, but also help improve taste. This article will consider the question of what you can plant potatoes next to.

Contents

Planting potatoes: with which cultures it can be adjacent

In most cases, special attention is paid to potatoes, and for good reason, it occupies the main area of ​​​​the site, since it is required to plant plants at a decent distance from each other. So that the space between the rows does not go to waste, it is recommended to plant plants correctly. A suitable neighborhood will help improve the quality and yield of both crops.

First of all, in order to know what to plant potatoes next to, you need to take into account the characteristics of this crop. To plant a plant, you need to understand the following characteristics:

Multiple crops can be planted in a potato bed

You also need to understand which neighbors need to fertilize the soil at what time. The compatibility of cultures also plays a special role. Co-planting is a way to grow vegetable crops in a space-saving manner without exposure to chemicals. Such a neighborhood will save the gardener strength and time. This has a lot of advantages:

When planting together, it is recommended to plant potatoes along the edges of the plot. It is also possible to plant several crops in one hole: the beans ripen early, and the remaining roots will feed the neighbor.

Potato compatibility

It is not recommended to grow crops in the same place year after year, because the soil is depleted, most gardeners know this. However, some do not even think about the fact that certain types of plants should not be grown in neighboring beds, as they can harm each other.

Potatoes and cruciferous plants

Cruciferous plants can be grown near potatoes without problems, they are good neighbors. Cabbage should not be planted between rows, as potato tops can block the necessary light. If this is not observed, both crops can get blackleg.

Please note! So that the aisles are not empty, they can be planted with radishes and radishes. The first option is possible if the distance between rows is at least a meter. Radishes are sown in early spring, so it is worthwhile to designate a place for planting potatoes in advance, since they are planted later.

One of the best green manures is mustard: its roots disinfect the soil. The plant needs to be sown in row spacing, completely cut off the trunks when they exceed the height of the potato tops. At the same time, the roots must be left in the soil so that they serve as additional fertilizer.

Mustard in the aisle of potatoes will serve as an excellent fertilizer

Potatoes and pumpkins

Growing cucumbers and pumpkins next to potatoes is not recommended by most agronomists. Pumpkins are susceptible to late blight, which can pass on to their neighbors in the garden. However, in practice, gardeners have found a way to deal with this: cucumbers are simply planted in a mini-greenhouse, which can be opened during the day so that the sun hits the vegetables, but at night it closes, and therefore moisture does not fall on the leaves.

Important! Do not allow droplets of the chemical to come into contact with cucumbers when pesticides are applied to potatoes.

Pumpkins and zucchini can be adjacent to root crops, but it is recommended to adjust the lashes so that they do not come close to potato tops. It is also worth preventing direct contact of pumpkins with the ground by placing a plank under each vegetable.

Potatoes and green vegetables

In the garden, potatoes and greens such as spinach, lettuce and dill can be combined in open access to each other. Potatoes have high compatibility with them, and therefore these plants can be sown both in adjacent beds and between rows.

Potatoes and corn

Corn is often sown at the edges of potato fields, because, despite good compatibility, it greatly exceeds the height of the potato tops, which may prevent them from getting enough sunlight. Corn can be planted between the rows of potatoes, but the beds should have a north-south direction, and there should be a distance of at least 1 m between the rows so that sunlight falls on nightshade.

Potatoes and sunflowers

There is an opinion among gardeners that these crops should not be planted next to each other. This is not at all the case, however, certain rules should be observed: there must be a sufficient amount of nutrients in the soil for both sunflower and potatoes. For this purpose, it is required to apply a large amount of organic fertilizers to the substrate. Manure can act as top dressing.

It is better to plant sunflowers on the border of a potato bed

Potato compatibility with trees and shrubs

It is highly not recommended to plant potatoes under apple trees, as the fruit crop will be small, small, and taste bad than it was before. Also, do not plant root crops next to cherries, raspberries, grapes, sea buckthorn and chokeberries.

What are the best crops to plant potatoes next to

Potato neighbors can contribute to its growth. Not all crops can boast of this, but there are certain representatives that should be grown either in the same holes as potatoes or nearby.

Potatoes and legumes

Plants of the legume family are the most prominent representatives that help potatoes grow better and give a rich harvest. The fact is that on the root system they have beneficial bacteria that enrich the soil with nitrogen. The smell of their roots also repels the wireworm and Colorado potato beetle.

Depending on the plant of this family, the result may vary. It is worth paying attention to certain possibilities of cultures and choosing the necessary ones according to their properties.

Beans and string beans should only be planted at the edge of potato plantations, as they take a lot of nutrients from the soil, which can make the roots smaller and less tasty. Bush beans can be grown even between rows.

It is recommended to plant peas next to potatoes only if there is no chemical treatment against pests (for example, the Colorado potato beetle). This is a necessary condition, since nightshade is processed during the ripening of peas.

Peas and potatoes are great neighbors

Potato compatibility with onions and garlic

Potatoes will be protected from pests with garlic and onions. Their smell repels the Colorado potato beetle, and the released phytoncides protect against phytophthora.

Rescuing flowers

The strong smell of flowers such as marigold, calendula and nasturtium can also repel pests. They are often recommended to be planted in row-spacings, especially if several nightshade species are adjacent. Nasturtium will help protect the garden from whiteflies and whiteflies, marigolds from bears and wireworms, and calendula from the Colorado potato beetle.

Which neighbors in the garden do potatoes treat neutrally

There are also crops from which potatoes, as they say, "neither warm nor cold." If you grow them nearby, then they will not bring any benefit, however, they will not be able to bring trouble either.

Carrots and beetroots

Beetroots and carrots are exactly neutral neighbors with respect to nightshade. After harvesting potatoes from the garden, the beets will have time to fully ripen. The same goes for carrots.

Which crops should not be planted with potatoes

No one will say that you can plant tomatoes next to potatoes, since this is the most famous fact of the unfortunate neighborhood of vegetables. It is recommended to expand your knowledge and find out what other vegetables will interfere with the active growth of root crops.

Potato compatibility with Nightshades

Potatoes belong to the nightshade family in the same way as eggplants, peppers and tomatoes. This suggests, first of all, that the same diseases can develop on all these crops. In order not to destroy the entire crop, it is not recommended to plant potatoes next to tomatoes and other members of this family.

Important! Pesticide treatment of potatoes can go sideways if eggplant and pepper grow side by side. These vegetables accumulate more poisonous and harmful substances in their fruits than potatoes.

Excellent co-growing option

Potatoes and strawberries

Not only should a tomato plant not be adjacent to a potato plantation, but also strawberries. It can be infected with gray rot, since it is this berry that is most susceptible to such a disease. If there is no dividing line of flowers, other plants, then the disease can easily migrate to potatoes. The risk of spreading nematodes and wireworms also increases.

Every gardener should know what can be planted next to potatoes and what is not recommended. Diseases and pests can capture the entire garden and leave it without a crop if the rules of crop rotation and the correct arrangement of beds with different crops relative to each other are not followed.

Why can't potatoes be planted next to tomatoes?

Komsomolskaya Pravda

Dom. FamilyGarden and garden: useful tipsMy wonderful dacha: Kitchen gardenBelarus: My dacha

Elena ZUEVA

March 21, 2013 17:59

Leonid Mishin, Candidate of Biological Sciences at the Scientific and Practical Center for Potato, Fruit and Vegetable Growing of the National Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Belarus, told readers of Komsomolskaya Pravda about how to establish a crop rotation in his garden.

A good garden requires a lot of trouble

Vegetables have common diseases and pests

Despite the fact that spring is not particularly in a hurry to us, summer residents are already actively buying seeds and figuring out what and where they will plant on their cherished acres. Some first break the beds on paper, think where fragrant dill, onion and basil will sit, where to plant tomatoes, and where - carrots, beets and cucumbers. This is a good method - especially if you also take into account the crop rotation rule, when you need to alternate crops annually.

If crop rotation is not taken seriously, then over time you may encounter the fact that the soil on the site is depleted, pests and diseases will accumulate in it.

For example, potatoes take a lot of nitrogen from the soil, and cabbage, in addition to nitrogen, also draws phosphorus. As a result, even if these crops are planted on the same beds for the second year in a row, even with the application of fertilizers, this will still lead to a deficiency of nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil. Another danger is that pathogenic bacteria and pests that love specific plants can accumulate in the soil. For example, tomatoes and potatoes belong to the same nightshade family, and therefore are subject to the same diseases and pests. Therefore, you can not plant tomatoes after potatoes and vice versa. The Colorado potato beetle will not doze off and will gladly switch to tomatoes.

If the crop rotation is not observed, the harvest will be modest.

- Quite often, a decrease in yield during repeated cultivation is observed in potatoes, peas, beets, cabbage. So, when growing cabbage in the same area for the second year, the yield is reduced by 20%. And when landing in the third year - by 60%! The yield of this crop will also depend on the predecessor, i.e. crops grown on this bed in the previous year. The yield decreases if you plant tomatoes after potatoes, beans after clover, spinach after beets.

There is evidence that many flowers leave toxins in the soil. For example, some researchers note that radishes, lettuce, carrots, beets, cabbage, etc. grow poorly in the area where amaryllis grew.

How to properly plan the beds

- For good owners, the garden is divided into an equal number of smaller plots. Every year crops move from one site to another. The main thing is that related cultures fall into their former place as rarely as possible (once every 4 - 6 years) and there were no bad predecessors in front of them. For cabbage, beets are considered a bad predecessor, for tomatoes - potatoes, for carrots - tomato (accumulates rot), for beets - cabbage, for onions - carrots, etc.

We decided to create a crop rotation for 8 crops as an example. They laid out a garden into 8 beds (beds can be in two or three rows) and showed how they will move. Every year, the second bed takes the place of the first, the third - in place of the second, etc., and the first bed next year will be the very last. This principle works on any of the following crop rotations. You can choose the one that suits you.

Crop rotation for three years

2013

2014

2015

1. Cucumber, zucchini

1. Haste

1. Carrots

2. Kabba

2. Carrots

2. Tomat

3. Carrots

3. Tomat

3. Salad, spinach

4. Tomat

4. Salad, spinach

4. Potatoes

5. Salad, spinach, dill

5. Potatoes

5. Peas, beans

6. Potato

6. Peas, beans

6. Onion, garlic

7. Peas, beans, beans

7. Onion, garlic

7. Cucumber, zucchini

8. Onion, garlic

8.9 Cucumber, zucchini

2 80003 If there are not enough places for 8 beds, try such schemes

Cross -turn - I

Cross -turn - II

Cross -turn - III

1. Cabbage, radishes

2. Carrots

3. Cucumbers

4. Luke. , salads

5. Tomatoes

1. Cucumbers, zucchini

2. Onion, garlic

3. GIRO, beans, beans

4. Cabbage

5. Tomatoes

6. Beetroot

7. Carrots

1. Early potatoes 1. Early potatoes + Lupin (smell)

2. Kabba

3. Cucumbers

4. Luke

5. Tomati

6. Peas, beans, beans

7. Carrots, beets

COVIV

COMPORTANCE - V

Crop rotation - VI

1. Winter cereals

2. Beetroot

3. Carrots

4. Cabbage

5. Potatoes

6. Peas, beans, beans

1. Winter cereals

2. Oguritsa, zucchini

3. Kabust

4 Tomato

5. Lettuce, spinach, dill + lupine (plowed)

6. Onion, garlic

7. Carrot, beetroot

1. Cabbage

2. Cucumber, garlic 9000.03 3.0002

4. Carrot

Crop rotation -VII

COME -turn - VIII

Cross -turn - IX

1. cabbage

2. Cucumbers, zucchini

3. tomatoes

4. Salad, spinach + lupine (smell)

5. Carrots, beets

6. Grain 6. Grain

1. Grain

2. Cabbage

3. Potatoes

4. Carrots, beets

4. Salad, spinach

1. Cucumbers

2. Cabbage

3. Potatoes

4. Corneled tracks

5. Legumes

6. Lettuce, spinach

BTW

Another nuance that must be taken into account in crop rotation is the friendship of plants. For example, onions and carrots. Each of them has its own pest - a fly. Accordingly, carrot and onion. But it turned out that the onion fly does not like the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly does not tolerate onions. Therefore, alternating rows of carrots and onions on the same bed are mutually protected from pests. In addition, onions are an excellent predecessor for carrots (but, unfortunately, not vice versa).

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