Should i prune my hibiscus
How to prune hibiscus: to keep them flowering for longer
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Learning how to prune hibiscus is easy and will keep your plant in great condition. Hibiscus are beautiful and showy plants with large, bright flowers in a range of colors, from yellow to pink. Highly decorative, the flowers can bring a tropical feel and a pop of color to your garden. The flowers and buds are also edible and make a beautiful sweet tea.
Hibiscus flowers are short-lived, usually only blooming for a single day. However, if you have included them in your flower bed ideas, and prune them correctly, you will have a profusion of flowers and a long-lasting colorful display with new flowers opening every day.
The hibiscus family is a large one including species that are herbaceous perennials, annuals, woody shrubs and even trees. The varieties most commonly found in gardens are Hibiscus syriacus, a hardy deciduous flowering shrub and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, or Chinese Hibiscus, a tender evergreen shrub only grown in the tropics and subtropics.
Follow this easy guide and learn how to prune hibiscus. You will be pleased to know that pruning hibiscus is a whole lot simpler than you might think.
(Image credit: Getty Images)
How to prune hibiscus
If you want to know how to prune hibiscus correctly, the first thing you need to establish is what kind of hibiscus you’re dealing with.
There are numerous varieties with a range of characteristics and blooms of different colors. If you choose the right type for your garden and plant it in the right place, and learn how to prune hibiscus in the right way, they will produce a stunning floral show throughout the growing season.
Treat your hibiscus well and you will create a flowering machine – as one day’s flowers fade, so a vigorous array of new flowers will appear to succeed them. With so many colors to choose from, you can include hibiscus in a range of garden color schemes.
How to identify hibiscus
If you planted your hibiscus yourself, chances are you’ll already know which category it falls under. If, however, you’ve inherited a ready-planted hibiscus in your garden you’ll need to identify at least the category it belongs to in order to know how to prune hibiscus in the right way. Just as you prune rhododendrons in different ways and at different times depending on the variety, the same is true of hibiscus. The outline below will help with both scenarios.
How to prune native hibiscus
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Native hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) – also known as common rose mallow, swamp mallow, or marsh hibiscus – are native to the southeastern US. Choose between pink, red and white flowering varieties. As its name suggests, the swamp mallow prefers marshy wetland habitats, but can tolerate drier spots if kept well watered. The scarlet rose mallow is a beautiful variety, common in Florida, which can grow to 4 to 8 feet tall (1 to 2.5 m.).
According to Gena Lorraine, gardening expert at Fantastic Services , ‘Native hibiscus is very easy to care for but sometimes they can grow a bit leggy and too tall.
To keep a healthy height, you need to make sure you know how to prune hibiscus.
'Make sure to cut its stems back towards the end as they are from the previous season and the plant will not bloom from these. You should do that in late winter or early spring before the new growth. Always use sharp blades and if the plant looks tender and leaning, you can tie it to a supporting stake,’ says Gena.
How to prune tropical hibiscus
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Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), as the name suggests, can only survive permanently in zones 9-11 and suit tropical garden ideas. They have glossy dark green leaves and flowers of rich reds, yellow, orange through to peach, pink and gold. With their showy blooms, they are great as shrubs for the front of the house to increase its curb appeal.
'There are many forms of rosa-sinensis,’ says Byron Martin from Logees Plants in Connecticut. ‘The coloration of the flowers is really extraordinary; there's so much diversity in the color it could take years to become familiar with the amount of beauty that is in this genus,’ he continues.
Tropical hibiscus share some characteristics with the native hibiscus. If you live in a cooler climate, it’s still possible to grow tropical hibiscus, but in this case you will treat it as an annual, or bring it indoors into a conservatory or heated greenhouse before the temperatures start to drop outside.
Gena Lorraine offers the following advice on pruning tropical hibiscus: ‘this type of hibiscus should be pruned until it achieves a tree-like shape but the timing really depends on where you live.
‘In the US the best time to prune is in spring or when the weather starts warming up. Never prune tropical hibiscus in fall as you risk freezing the new and still tender growth. Also, it’s recommended to bring your tropical hibiscus inside in winter if it’s planted in a pot. On the other hand, if you live in a tropical area, you can prune the plant all year round. Start pruning by removing the outer growth and any suckers growing around the base. Of course, keep an eye on diseased branches to avoid spreading. ’
How to prune hardy hibiscus
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Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus spp) have heart-shaped, dull green leaves and white, pink or red flowers. They are similar in nature to tropical hibiscus, but the main difference lies in where they can grow. Hardy hibiscus are cold tolerant in cooler US zones 5 to 8, hardy hibiscus produce showy flowers in a range of colors.
Known for her step-by-step gardening tutorials, and, describing herself as ‘a native of chilly zone 5, where we love hardy hibiscus’, gardening expert Mary Jane Duford says: ‘Hardy hibiscus is a low-maintenance perennial that needs only basic pruning.’
She adds, ‘This type of hibiscus dies back to the soil surface each winter in the cooler zones in which it thrives. New sprouts appear in the springtime, after most other hardy herbaceous perennials have sprouted. At this point, any remnants of overwintered stems can be trimmed off with sharp, clean pruning shears.’
Pruning is not required during this summer foliage growth period, although stems can be pinched back when under a foot tall if a shrubby form is desired. Once the plant starts to flower, remove spent blooms as they finish flowering. This plant is known for its incredible flowers, and looks much more attractive when the wilted blooms are removed.
In the late fall, long after flowering is finished, you will need to prune hardy hibiscus stems following a hard frost. If you wish, you can leave 3-6 inches of stem visible to remind you where the plant is. Although Mary Jane Duford adds that stems ‘can also be left standing until early spring to support the local bird population during the winter months.’
(Image credit: John Swithinbank)
How should hibiscus be pruned?
How hibiscus should be pruned depends on the variety you have. Once you have identified the variety of hibiscus that you have, you will be able to choose what is the best way to prune by following this guide.
All pruning should be carried out with a pair of sharp, clean secateurs. A clean cut made by a sharp tool will heal easier than a messy cut. Using a clean tool will also help to reduce the chances of infection. It is also good practice to prune on a dry day.
How hard can you cut back hibiscus?
You can cut hibiscus right back, but pruning is a matter of choice. Good pruning will promote flowering.
Native hibiscus can get quite tall and start to look a little untidy, so if you want a neater plant with more blooms make sure to prune as directed above. Tropical and hardy hibiscus can be pruned into an attractive tree shape, or kept as a bushy shrub.
How do I prune hibiscus for winter?
It will depend on the type of hibiscus that you have whether you prune it before or at the end of winter, or early spring.
Native hibiscus and hardy hibiscus will die back in cold weather, this is a natural part of their growth cycle and nothing to worry about.
Tropical hibiscus however cannot tolerate temperatures below 50°F (10°C). Tropical hibiscus can be grown in cooler climates as an annual, but if you want to keep it going through winter you will need to bring it indoors. Pruning will help keep it to a manageable size.
And there you have it. Once you've identified your plant type according to our experts' advice, learning how to prune hibiscus and care for it couldn't be simpler.
Karen is the houses editor for homesandgardens.com and homes editor for the brand’s sister titles, Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors, and an experienced writer on interiors and gardens. She loves visiting historic houses for Period Living and writing about rural properties for Country Homes & Interiors, and working with photographers to capture all shapes and sizes of properties. Karen began her career as a sub editor at Hi-Fi News and Record Review magazine. Her move to women’s magazines came soon after, in the shape of Living magazine, which covered cookery, fashion, beauty, homes and gardening. From Living Karen moved to Ideal Home magazine, where as deputy chief sub, then chief sub, she started to really take an interest in properties, architecture, interior design and gardening.
How And When To Prune Hibiscus For Best Growth
Hibiscus brings an abundance of flowers and a tropical feel to any setting.
There are many varieties of Hibiscus; some are tropical (USDA hardiness zones 9 and above), and some are hardy or native to the United States (USDA hardiness zones 4 and above).
PinPruning benefits all varieties, but depending upon the variety you have and the way you plan to keep it, pruning timing and technique may vary.
Table Of Contents
- Why Prune A Hibiscus Shrub?
- When Is The Best Time To Prune Hibiscus?
- What’s the Difference Between Tropical and Hardy Hibiscus?
- What About Potted Tropical Hibiscus?
- How To Prune Hibiscus?
- What is Deadheading?
- How Do You Prune an Established, Neglected Hibiscus?
- Hibiscus Pruning What To Do After You Prune?
In this article, we discuss how and when to prune your hibiscus plant. Read on to learn more.
Why Prune A Hibiscus Shrub?
When you prune the branch tips of hibiscus lightly, you encourage your plant to grow more branches and develop a fuller more bushy silhouette.
More branches also bring more Hibiscus flower buds, and beautiful flowers are the point of Hibiscus.
Aside from aesthetics, pruning also removes damaged and potentially ailing leaves and branches.
Judicious pruning is a good way to help any plant stay healthy.
When Is The Best Time To Prune Hibiscus?
Hardy and Tropical Hibiscus are pruned in pretty much the same manner throughout the growing season. However, there are differences in how you prune at the beginning and end of the growing season.
What’s the Difference Between Tropical and Hardy Hibiscus?
Hardy Hibiscus are typically native to the United States and are naturally perennials. In USDA hardiness zones four and above, they can usually be left outdoors year-round.
Perennial or Hardy Hibiscus naturally die back to the ground every winter and start again with new growth in the springtime.
These types of plants may take quite a while to reemerge in the springtime.
You may not see the new growth of your Hardy Hibiscus until the middle of the summer.
In a very cold setting, the best time to cut back the dead stalks of Hardy Hibiscus is in late winter or early in the springtime.
Be sure to leave about 6” inches of each stalk intact so you will remember where the Hibiscus tree is and won’t accidentally run over it with the mower.
Once the plant begins to grow, prune lightly to control the size and shape of the plant.
With a Perennial Hibiscus, keep the flowers deadheaded and trim out damaged leaves and branches and old-growth lightly throughout their active growing season.
Cut back one-third or less of the plants’ new growth overall to encourage more branching and more blooming.
Keep an eye on your Perennial Hibiscus throughout the growing season and trim as needed.
As the name implies, Tropical Hibiscus does not like cold weather, but if you live in a very cold climate, keep your Tropical Hibiscus indoors in the wintertime.
When you do this, your Tropical Hibiscus acts as a perennial.
Alternately, treat it as an annual and buy new Tropical Hibiscus to adorn your landscape each spring.
Tropical Hibiscus varieties left outdoors year-round in a tropical setting should be pruned vigorously throughout the spring, summer, and autumn seasons.
These plants also appreciate a hard pruning at the end of the growing season.
Tropical Hibiscus will remain dormant outdoors in cool weather during the winter.
Only hard prune Tropical Hibiscus annually.
They do bloom on new growth, but if you prune them severely, you will delay their growth and blooming for months.
Types of Hibiscus You May Like:
- Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
- Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne Huegelii)
- Texas Star Hibiscus – Hibiscus coccineus
- Confederate Rose – Hibiscus mutabilis
- Swamp Mallow – Hibiscus Moscheutos
What About Potted Tropical Hibiscus?
If you live in a cold setting and plan to keep your pots of Tropical Hibiscus indoors in the wintertime, pruning will depend upon the location where you keep your plant.
If you’re keeping the plant in the basement to go dormant through the winter, give it a light trim before storing it away. Give plants a hard full prune when you bring them out to resume growth late in the winter or early spring.
On the other hand, if you’re keeping it as a houseplant or in a greenhouse, give it a hard pruning late in the fall before you bring it indoors to grow for the winter.
Check out our article: Hibiscus Care in Winter
How To Prune Hibiscus?
In addition to taking care of the health of the plant, you should also keep an eye on it just for good looks.
If left to their own devices, Hibiscus will get tall and leggy and become very top-heavy.
This causes the stalks to lean every which way, causing your plant to look unbalanced and strange. To fix the unbalanced look will require corrective pruning.
Examine your plant every week or two and trim back branches (selective pruning) leaning to the left or right.
Doing so will encourage a bushier growth habit and eliminate problems with sparse areas in the center of the plant.
Here’s how to prune hibiscus:
- When you trim back individual branches, look for leaf nodes.
- This is the point at which leaves emerge.
- Sometimes they just look like bumps, and sometimes they have little leaves growing from them.
- Trim just above a leaf node so you will get good, bushy growth at the point where you cut.
- Encourage stalks to grow one way or the other by slanting your cut in the direction in which you want the plant to grow.
- Cut about a quarter-inch above a leaf node with the slant facing the way you want to direct the new growth.
- While actively growing remember to never remove more than a third of the plant at once.
- Always use sharp scissors, pruning shears, or bypass hand pruners (Felco) to make clean, efficient cuts.
What is Deadheading?
Deadheading is an important component of pruning.
It is the practice of promptly removing faded flowers to encourage more blooms.
When flowers begin to wilt, they lose their aesthetic appeal, yet they continue to be a drain on the plant’s energy.
Removing them helps your plant focus its energy on creating more flowers.
You should keep a close eye on your hibiscus and deadhead flowers right away when you see they are beginning to fade and wilt.
Don’t allow seedpods to begin to form as this is a big drain on energy.
- To deadhead, you should snip or snap off the plant’s stem below the faded blossom at the point where it joins with the main stem of the plant.
- If you are using scissors or bypass pruners to snip off faded flowers, be sure the blades are clean and sharp.
- Dirty blades spread germs, and dull blades damage plants.
- Use a paper towel soaked with rubbing alcohol to wipe the blades clean before trimming your plant.
How Do You Prune an Established, Neglected Hibiscus?
If mature Hibiscus have been neglected, they may be filled with branches of dead wood and excessive, uncontrolled growth.
In this case, hard pruning may be in order. Begin by cutting back as much of the old growth as possible.
Hard pruning on an old, neglected Hibiscus can work wonders.
When the new growth appears, it will be far more likely to bloom and prosper than the old growth you have removed.
To perform this kind of hard hibiscus pruning, cut the branches down to between 6” inches and a foot high.
Leave a couple of leaf nodes intact on each stalk.
This is where new growth will come from.
Although it may take quite a while for a mature Hibiscus to recover from this type of extreme pruning when it does, you will be delighted by its abundant new growth and blooms.
Hibiscus Pruning What To Do After You Prune?
After pruning hibiscus in the springtime, give your Hibiscus a feeding of potassium-rich flowering plant fertilizer.
Look for an NPK ratio of 3 –1 – 4.
This is just the right formulation for healthy growth and abundant flowering.
Be careful not to provide food with too much nitrogen because this will result in lots of leaves and not too many flowers.
Likewise, too much phosphorus causes problems for Hibiscus.
Fertilizers too rich in phosphorus will cause Hibiscus plants to become yellow and fade rapidly.
Learn more about –> Hibiscus Fertilizer
With Hibiscus plants, it’s a good idea to follow the weakly/weekly program.
Provide a teaspoonful of fertilizer mix per gallon of water once a week.
If you feel you will not be able to keep up with this regimen, use a slow-release fertilizer seasonally, and provide a light feeding of potassium monthly while in active growth.
How to form a compact bush: care tips
How to form a compact bush? Neat plants look much more beautiful than elongated and one-sided ones. Often you have to see how 1 or 2 “sticks” of a meter height, or even more, stick out from a geranium or dracaena. How to fix it? There are many articles on the Internet about pruning, but you must admit that if a geranium or hibiscus is cut during the summer, then you can forget about flowering forever. In fact, in indoor floriculture there are enough tricks to regulate growth. I will describe my experience using the example of hibiscus. Just for the reason that on it I apply all the measures known to me. After all, for example, in order to form a compact bush at a geranium, it is enough to cut off all the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface in March. With fast growing plants like hibiscus this will not be enough. All the techniques described below can be used in combination, or separately, and in relation to any indoor plants.
Contents
How to form a compact bush. Where to begin.
When people ask me how to form a compact shrub, my first advice is to start growing a new plant. That is, take a cutting, root it, and then work with it. The old plant, no matter how sad it sounds, needs to be thrown away or given to someone. There are 2 reasons why it is desirable to start with this. Firstly, a young plant is almost always more decorative than an overgrown one. In addition, many plants (Kalanchoe, Schefflera, Pedilanthus, etc.) are most beautiful at a young age. Secondly, a large adult flower can hurt after all the "manipulations".
Light.
Light plays a huge role in plant life. After all, they can only eat in conditions of good lighting. Accordingly, a flower that receives a sufficient amount of light does not need to grow excessively in height. After all, even light shading is a signal for increased growth. Under natural conditions, this happens only in the forest. The plant tries to grow in height (most often in one "stick") in the "hope" to find the sun. And only then will it begin to branch. Therefore, by providing the plant with good bright lighting, the grower eventually gets a compact bush. Of course this only partially works. The same hibiscus in sunlight is able to grow to the ceiling.
How to form a compact bush. Pruning.
Of course, cutting off the shoots is the main measure to reduce the size of the plant. I am often asked: What plants can be pruned? Any. The shorter you cut the shoots, the more compact the bush will be in the end. I cut my hibiscus very short. It remains a "stump" 8-10 cm in height. After pruning, treat all damaged areas with garden pitch or Runnet. How to form a small deciduous tree using Benjamin's ficus as an example, read our article.
Trimmed hibiscusWhen to trim.
Hibiscus blooms on young shoots. Therefore, it makes no sense to cut and pinch it from mid-spring to October. Of course, all plants with a similar growth regime also do not need to be touched. Hibiscus, pelargonium (geranium), etc. must be pruned either in late autumn or early spring. Personally, it is more convenient for me to do this in November. I transfer the cropped plant to a dormant period and put it in the corner of the windowsill so that it does not interfere) Plants that are grown for foliage can be cut at any time of the year. Well, except for winter. Still, the flowers need to be given a rest.
Root pruning.
Root trimming is a fairly effective growth control measure. Simply for the reason that a plant that has lost part of the root system will not be able to grow shoots in the same way as before. I cut off some of the roots during transplantation in late autumn. That is, after my hibiscus blooms, I cut off the shoots for it, then transplant it and additionally cut off part of the roots. Very often, washing the root system with water can cause wilting. Therefore, it is better to free the roots from the soil with a wooden peg. First of all, you need to remove long and thick roots. They are essential for strong growth. Thin fibrous roots must be preserved to the maximum. Due to them, the plant absorbs water and minerals from the soil. Accordingly, if they are cut off too much, the plant will eventually get sick.
Growth regulation by pot size.
If you want to form a compact bush, then you need to plant in small pots. After all, many roots cannot grow in a small container. Accordingly, this will partially limit the growth of shoots. Therefore, I transplant hibiscus 2 times a year. Once in late autumn in a very small pot (diameter 11 cm). Indeed, after pruning the shoots and part of the roots, a lot of soil is no longer needed. Even dangerous. After all, even in a standard pot, a cut plant will not be able to absorb as much water as before. Accordingly, this will lead to decay and can cause death. Therefore, a very small pot is needed for the winter period. In March-April, I transfer to a larger pot (diameter 16-17 cm). After all, for flowering you need uniform moistening of the roots. In a pot that is too small, this cannot be achieved. So there will be a compact bush, but without flowers. I have been growing my hibiscus this way for many years.
Hibiscus at the beginning of the growing seasonApplication of retardants.
Retardants are substances that cause an increased development of shoots in thickness, and at the expense of growth in height. The greatest effect is noticeable only in low light conditions. That is, using such preparations, you can get a compact plant in conditions of light shading. Of the retardants, I met only one drug - "Athlete". Perhaps there are others. If you decide to use such drugs, strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Personally, I rarely use them. due to limited action. For example, monocot plants practically do not react to them. With regard to hibiscus, Athlete gives a positive result.
Rest period.
Very often, flower growers mistakenly believe that since the plant is southern, it must always grow, both in winter and summer. In fact, the change of seasons is almost everywhere on our planet. Except for a small band around the equator. Therefore, only a small part of the plants (anthurium, spathiphyllum and a few others) should develop in the same way throughout the year. All other plants from the second half of autumn to the beginning of spring should rest from growth. Violation of the dormant period causes stretching of the shoots. The plant is growing. So a decrease in temperature and a strong reduction in watering can be used as growth control. After pruning and transplanting, I severely cut down on watering for my hibiscus. Unfortunately, there is no way to reduce the temperature. But even rare watering copes with its task: during the winter rest, the growth of new shoots completely stops. Accordingly, the plant remains very compact until the start of the growing season. In addition, a dormant period is beneficial for future flowering.
Hibiscus before spring replantingHow to form a compact bush. Results.
How to form a compact bush - of course, this is primarily achieved by cutting the shoots. The remaining techniques are aimed at curbing growth. By combining various measures, you can choose the necessary care for any plant. For example, to form a compact bush in pelargonium (geranium) or hydrangea, it is enough to cut them short every year and put them in good sunlight. For Kalanchoe or begonias, this approach is also possible. But still, the young plant has the greatest decorative effect. Therefore, it is better to periodically update them by cuttings. Ficuses grow more slowly than hibiscuses. Therefore, they do not need to be cut as dramatically as described above. Cut off the shoots at the height at which you personally will like its appearance. For hibiscus and other fast-growing plants, it is better to use all the above methods to achieve the maximum decorative effect.
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Hibiscus - the flower of the Garden of Eden
Hibiscus is admired in many countries. So, he was chosen as a national symbol of Hawaii, Malaysia, Thailand, South Korea and Haiti. It is often called the flower of love. It blooms for only one or two days, so its flowering is always a holiday. We asked Viktor Michurin from Sergiev Posad, who has over 500 varieties of hibiscus, to tell us about this amazing plant.
- Victor, how did you start collecting hibiscus?
- I have been collecting hibiscus for a long time, but it all started with a picked up broken branch of "grandmother's" hibiscus: the neighbors were taking a two-meter bush to the dacha, and during loading they broke a branch. When I managed to root it, and I saw the flowering of red hibiscus, I I wanted to put hibiscus and other flowers on my window. The whites appeared yellow, pink, orange, double and non-double flowers. Such proposals always a lot on flower forums, these hibiscus are popular. Then next settled bunk El Capitolio, variegated, long-nosed - that is varieties that have been living in Russia for a relatively long time. Then I found on the Internet photographs of overseas tropical varieties, which, of course, conquered beauty, shape and size. It turned out that there are multicolor varieties, with a border and ruffles, flounces and sails on the bow. The diameter of the flowers reaches 26 cm! I started looking the opportunity to buy and bring these rare plants from America and the islands Pacific Ocean.
- How has your collection grown during this time?
- Now in my collection the number of varieties has exceeded 500, if there is time, a few photos of flowering show on the forums. Just a few years ago, getting an interesting variety was very difficult, varietal plants are not sold in our stores, purchase can only be exchanged with other collectors or ordered in American nurseries.
First own Florida I got the stalk by exchanging for two ordinary multi-colored hibiscus. This was lilac Kristen Coveny, an old, willingly flowering variety, now few people have it remained in the collections. But its flowering brought many pleasant minutes, pleased and unusual color, and flower size.
Of course, I was looking for different information about growing conditions, care, varieties. Soon found on the Internet amazing photos, e-mailed and bought varietal cuttings already in the nursery. Unfortunately, not all varieties I managed to root and save. Hibiscus take root not easily, vaccinations do not always take root, especially after long road to Russia. But it's hard to stop, I want new shapes and shades. The collection has gradually grown, and now it is constantly updated, something is exchanged, something is acquired, something fed up goes away.
- Why are these plants, despite their beauty, not so widely common among flower growers?
- It seems to me that now varietal hibiscus spread quite widely. It's hard to keep from the temptation to have a flowering bush at home, if such an opportunity arises. Imagine, the flowers do not fit in the palms! But here's to share with a friend - for this you will already have to work hard, since the stalk cut from the bush through the hour will already wither without a package.
A for seed propagation hibiscus do not retain varietal characteristics. Cuttings take root hard, I had to learn how to graft, grow rootstocks. Today it has become much it is easier to get the desired variety, in Russia there are not only Florida varieties hibiscus, but also Tahitian, Moorean (French Polynesia), Brazilian.
Of course, and Russian collectors are moving forward, there are varieties obtained here. And me too I pollinate my flowers, collect seeds, seedlings grow, there are more than a thousand of them. Some plants live with me, I sent some "babies" to Russia. Several of my hybrids have already bloomed, but this is just the beginning. flowering most sown hybrids have to wait for several years.
- Are there any associations of hibiscus collectors?
- Collectors communicate on flower forums, show their plants, discuss varieties. But honestly speaking, a large collection requires a lot of time and attention, so I I can spare quite a bit of time. There are still alive, that is, non-virtual people with whom we once changed or who bought hibiscus from me. FROM we discuss many issues with them at meetings or correspond with each other.
- Which varieties in your collection would you recommend for novice collectors, those that are easy to care for and bloom enough stable?
- All hibiscus require approximately the same conditions, I can only call the Black Dragon capricious. I advise you to choose in your collection those varieties that you like. colors. Someone likes red more, someone brown, someone blue, someone is white. One prefers varieties with contrasting spots and splashes, the other in flowering appreciates large sizes and shuttlecocks more.
Don't look for special, easy-to-maintain varieties. Every plant needs good lighting to thrive. and timely watering. All adult bushes bloom in the sun if they healthy.
- How and where do you place such a large number of plants?
- For my hibiscus separate room. Young grafts live on illuminated racks, plants with buds and blooming - on the windowsills.
- What kind of care do hibiscus trees need in our climate zone?
- Hibiscus is a tropical plant, in our area it is a bit dark even on the window, especially autumn and winter. Before you put the purchased bush on the window, you need to decide are you able to create suitable conditions for hibiscus, especially lighting, especially in winter time. If there is not enough light, then in winter hibiscus need a period rest at a low temperature of about 12-16 ° C.
Each collector has his own conditions, so there cannot be a uniform approach. Depending on temperature, humidity and light, depending on the size of the pots and the composition of the soil, in depending on the age and size of the bushes, you have to select an individual watering, fertilizing and processing of plants. Therefore, everyone gets care mine.
All I can say is that hibiscus are not endure darkness and dryness, from this they lose their immunity, get sick, and problems begin with leaves and roots.
- For many, it is a challenge to get the hibiscus to bloom, how do you manage it? do?
- To the composition of the soil hibiscus undemanding, but the soil must be sufficiently loose and breathable, therefore, I add vermiculite to any purchased mixture. How much depends on the composition of the purchased soil. I always use drainage (2-3 cm), I choose pots with holes, not pots. The size of the pots for grafting babies is 10-12 cm, for adult bushes 15-18 cm. I don’t transplant large ones, I just feed them.
Transplantation usually happens once a year, at the same time I form a bush - I tie twigs with wire, giving the plants desired shape. It is better to transplant and prune in the spring, but I do it round year, when time permits. With good illumination of the difference did not notice.
I feed constantly once a week, mainly with nitrogen, occasionally complex, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. But I have good lighting, this is very good for hibiscus. important. If wintering takes place in the dark, then it is necessary to feed with a large caution.
I water every day, since the temperature does not drop below 18 degrees, and hibiscus actively drink water. I also spray daily, while paying close attention to young vaccinations, which are growing especially actively. If everything is done correctly, then hibiscus bloom regularly.
- Is shaping required?
- Hibiscus pruning for health is not required, flower growers need it so that our plants do not grow out above the ceiling. Therefore, everyone forms bushes to their liking. Most often after pruning, new shoots begin to grow, branching forms at the cut site. Thus, pruning stimulates the appearance of side branches, and it turns out fluffy bush.
Hibiscus can be pruned at any time, the main rule is that there should be enough light so that the hibiscus can grow young shoots. And do not immediately remove more than a third of the greenery.
One-year-old bushes are usually shortened all long branches by a third, for older ones, pruning depends on their shape, speed growth of this variety and the desire of the owner. Cut branches can be rooted or instill.
- You said you were vaccinating hibiscus, can you tell me more about the technique you use and your experience?
- I use any hibiscus roots, including ordinary terry and non-terry, and schizopetalus, and variegated, and varietal hibiscus that I don’t really need. It is best to use ordinary red as a rootstock. I graft in a split. This method is both the easiest and produces the neatest plants. At the same thickness of the stock and scion in a year on the stem is difficult to find a place incision. I do not vaccinate too high - I leave only 3-4 cm from below, so that later the hibiscus does not looked like a palm tree. The height of the graft also depends on the thickness of the scion stems themselves. and rootstock. Today I can combine two barrels of different thickness, even if the stock is a little thinner, the resulting plant is quite viable, and it will look nice. All this, of course, comes with practice. plants a lot, and they are getting bigger every year, and space is limited, you have to periodically cut them, graft, rejuvenate.
- Tell us about hibiscus cuttings…
- Every year after pruning I get a lot of varietal cuttings. Surplus and change, and sell. cut cuttings can be rooted. I root cultivars very rarely, only when the absence of a suitable rootstock, tk. on a ready-made developed root system rootstock grafted varietal stalk grows, develops and blooms faster than on their own weak roots.
But, of course, you need to take care of rooting the right amount of sufficiently thick rootstocks. Hibiscus root necessarily in a greenhouse - you can under the package, under the jar, in canister or plastic bottle. As a substrate I use peat with perlite. The soil should be crumbly and slightly moist, the temperature should not be less than 20°С (optimally 22-24°С).