Planting cucumbers in pots

How to Grow Cucumbers in a Container Garden on Decks, Patios & More

Cucumbers are an essential summer vegetable, and one that is easy to grow and extremely productive – even in containers! You don’t need a big garden to grow cucumbers. Just give them sunshine and consistent moisture and enjoy a bumper crop of crisp fruits all summer long. Plus, cucumbers grown in pots typically have fewer issues with pests and diseases so planting in containers can actually reduce potential problems. Are you ready to learn how to grow cucumbers in a container garden?

Bush type cucumbers can be planted at the front of large pots and planters that also contain tomatoes, herbs, and other plants.

Types of cucumbers to grow in containers

There are so many unique and delicious cucumbers you can grow. I feature many of them in my award-winning book, Veggie Garden Remix, but basically, cucumber varieties fall into two main categories: bush or vining. Bush cucumbers form short vines, just two to three feet long and don’t require a trellis. They are perfect for pots, cascading over the side of a container or hanging basket, or you can support them with a tomato cage.

Vining cucumbers produce more fruits per plant but they’re also larger plants, growing up to eight feet long depending on the variety. They can be grown in pots but choose large containers, at least eighteen inches in diameter to ensure adequate root room. You’ll also need to provide a trellis or other support for the vigorous plants unless you want them wandering all over your deck or patio.

The best containers for growing cucumbers

Picking the right container to grow cucumbers is the first step to a successful harvest. The container should hold at least five to seven gallons of potting mix and have good drainage. Bigger is better as a larger volume of soil holds more water but is also heavier and less prone to tipping over.

Common materials for containers include plastic, fabric, wood, and metal. You can buy pots or up-cycle items like five gallon buckets, half-barrels, or wine boxes. If your choosen container doesn’t have any drainage holes, be sure to add some to the bottom with a drill. Fabric planters are free-draining and don’t need drainage holes. Bush-type cucumbers can also be grown in hanging baskets, but again, opt for a large-sized basket that is at least a twelve to fourteen inches in diameter.

I grow cucumber plants in various types of containers, including fabric pots and planters. They need to be watered more often than plastic pots, but hold heat well and air prune the roots resulting in a dense root system.

Best soil for container cucumbers

Cucumber vines are heavy feeders and grow best when planted in a growing medium that is lightweight but rich in organic matter. Avoid using garden soil which is very heavy. I combine a high quality potting mix, often called potting soil, with compost, in a 50-50 ratio for my container cucumbers. I also add slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix before I plant.

When to plant cucumbers in containers

Cucumbers are heat-loving vegetables and shouldn’t be planted outdoors until the soil temperature is at least 60 F (15 C). This is usually one to two weeks after the last spring frost. Don’t try and rush cucumbers into containers too early as they’ll be prone to cold or frost damage.

Cucumber seeds can be direct sown after the last spring frost and when the soil has warmed to at least 60 F (15 C). Or, they can be given a 3-4 week head start indoors.

How to grow cucumbers in a container garden – seeds or transplants?

I’m often asked if cucumber seeds should be direct sown outdoors or whether they need to be started inside to give the plants a head start on the season. Cucumbers generally don’t like root disturbance and can be difficult to transplant. For that reason, they are frequently direct sown in containers as well as garden beds.

To sow cucumber seeds in a container, plant three seeds per pot, pushing them about a half inch deep. Water well and keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Depending on the cucumber variety and the size of the container, you will likely need to remove all but one plant once they are growing well.

If you want to start your cucumber seeds indoors, be sure to sow them at the right time, which is just three to four weeks before you intend to move them to their pots. Planting inside too early results in overgrown plants that may try to flower and fruit while still indoors. These will be difficult to transplant and never live up to their production potential. When you’re ready to plant your well-timed cucumber seedlings into their prepared outdoor containers, carefully slip them from their pots and tuck them into the potting mix without disturbing the rootball. Water well.

I like to grow both my garden and container cucumber plants vertically on trellises, strings, or netting.

Growing cucumbers in containers vertically

There are many benefits to growing cucumbers vertically, even in containers. Plants grown up have better air flow around the leaves, reducing many common disease issues. If grown on a deck or patio, growing them on a support takes up less space and keeps your outdoor living area more tidy. It also makes it easier to harvest the fruits. Plus the cucumbers of long-fruited types, like English or Asian varieties grow straighter.

Most types of cucumbers, even bush varieties benefit from support. For shorter growing bush cucumbers, I use tomato cages. For vining varieties that can grow seven feet or more, I use trellises, netting, or strings.

Trellises – there are many types of trellises that can be used to grow cucumbers vertically. They are frequently made from wire or wood, and can be purchased or DIY’d.
Strings – In my polytunnel I grow cucumbers in fabric planters or plastic pots training them vertically up strings. It’s a very efficient and simple way to grow container cucumbers and results in healthy plants and a large harvest.
Netting – Pea and bean netting is another popular material for supporting vining cucumbers. If growing in planters or containers on a deck, balcony, or patio, the netting can be hung from a railing, wall or other structure. Be sure to choose a netting material with large holes at least four inches square. One inch square mesh netting is also available but not recommended for cucumbers as the fruits can get wedged in the netting as they grow.

For an instant container garden, plant cucumbers in a large rubbermaid container. Just be sure to drill holes in the bottom for drainage.

How to grow cucumbers in a container garden

The best cucumber harvest comes from healthy plants. To encourage healthy growth, place your containers where they will receive plenty of sunlight (at least eight hours a day) and provide regular moisture.

Watering container cucumbers – Cucumbers need a consistent supply of water to produce the highest quality fruits. If plants are water stressed and allowed to wilt in between waterings, the fruits can turn bitter. Container grown vegetables need to be watered more often than in-ground plants so keep a close eye on moisture levels and water when the soil feels dry to the touch. In summer, this may be every day, depending on the weather and the size of the container.
Fertilizing container cucumbers – Because cucumbers are heavy feeders, I add a slow release organic fertilizer to the potting mix at planting time. This provides a steady feed throughout the growing season. To supplement this, I also use a diluted liquid kelp fertilizer or compost tea every three to four weeks.
Monitor for pests and diseases – Cucumbers can fall prey to pests like cucumber beetles, aphids, squash bugs, and slugs, and diseases like powdery mildew and bacterial wilt. It helps to grow resistant varieties, but keeping an eye out for potential problems also allows you to take action before they get out of hand. A soapy water spray can be used for many types of insect pests. For detailed information on cucumber plant problems, be sure to check out this excellent article by Jessica.

Cucumbers are best when harvested slightly immature.

Cut fruits from the plant, don’t tug or pull as you risk damaging the plant.

How to harvest cucumbers in containers

Cucumbers are best harvested when the fruits are slightly immature and at the peak of quality. Once pollination has occurred it takes 5 to 10 days, depending on the variety, for the female flower to become a fruit. Fruit size varies from variety to variety with some ready to pick when just two inches in length and others when they’re a foot long, so read the seed packet for specific harvest information. Don’t allow over-ripe fruits to remain on the plant. This reduces new flower and fruit production.

Never pick fruits by tugging or pulling them from the plants. You can damage the plant or the fruit. Instead, use a pair of snips or pruners to clip the fruits from the vine.

The best varieties of cucumbers to grow in pots

When learning how to grow cucumbers in a container garden it’s important to consider variety selection. Many heirlooms are prolific and offer a large harvest of crispy fruits, but newer hybrids often have better disease resistance.

Bush cucumber varieties:

Pick a Bushel – This All-America Selections award-winning cucumber is ideal for pots. The compact plants grow just two-feet long and can be planted with other vegetables and herbs in a large container or on their own in medium-sized pots. It’s very early to produce and the fruits are great for fresh eating or making into pickles. Harvest when the cucumbers are three to five inches long.

Salad Bush – For over thirty years, Salad Bush has been a standard cucumber variety for small gardens and containers. The plants grow two-feet long and yield full-sized slicing cucumbers. Harvest when they are eight inches long.

Parisian Gherkin – A semi-vining cucumber, the plants of Parisian Gherkin grow two to three feet long and produce dozens of mini cucumbers that are delicious fresh or pickled. The fruits have small black spines and a crisp, lightly sweet flavor.

Spacemaster – This popular cucumber starts pumping out six to eight inch long fruits less than two months from seeding. This is a great variety for pots as well as hanging baskets as the plants grow only two to three feet long.

Vining cucumber varieties:

Lemon – Lemon cucumber is a popular heirloom variety with unusual roundish, pale green to light yellow fruits. The vines can grow eight feet long and produce dozens of cucumbers per plant. They’re best harvested when still pale green to light yellow. Once they turn bright yellow, they’re overmature and seedy.

Diva – An All-America Selections winner, Diva is reliable and productive and perfect for pots or garden beds. The vines grow five to six feet long so provide support. They’re also parthenocarpic which means they don’t need to be pollinated to produce a crop. This is especially useful if you’re growing the plants in pots in a greenhouse or polytunnel. For optimal flavor, harvest when the fruits are five to seven inches long.

Picolino – Picolino is a cocktail-type cucumber with compact vines that grow just four to five feet long and boast excellent disease resistance. The fruits are smooth and deep green and best harvested when four to five inches long. I grow Picolino in pots in my garden and polytunnel for a generous crop of delicious mini cucumbers all summer long.

Suyo Long – This is a traditional variety from Asia that yields long, slender cucumbers – up to fifteen inches long! It’s always a popular cucumber in our garden as everyone loves the mild, almost sweet flavor of Suyo Long. The vines grow seven feet or more so provide support.

For more information on how to grow cucumbers in a container garden, along with other vegetables, be sure to check out these articles:

Learn the basics of container gardening in our comprehensive container garden tip list
Cucumber plant problems and what to do about them
Container vegetable plants, the best varieties for success
Crops in pots: success with containers veggies
Growing the cucumber’s fun cousin, cucamelons

Did you learn anything new about how to grow cucumbers in a container garden?

8 Tips for Successfully Growing Cucumbers In Pots

Cucumbers can be a little tricky to grow. But with our 8 tips for growing cucumbers in pots, you are sure to get a bountiful harvest even if you don’t have a garden.

While many veggies in the cucurbit family are easy to grow (I’m looking at you zucchini), cucumbers tend to be a little more finicky.

Given that, it may seem like a bad idea to try to grow these temperamental plants in containers. But the truth is that growing cucumbers in pots can actually be easier than putting them in the garden.

After all, in pots, these sensitive cucurbits are less exposed to pathogens and their environment can be more easily monitored for optimal growth. Even more important? You can direct seed even in short-season climates to avoid upsetting fragile seedlings.

Skeptical but willing to give it a try for a chance to grow your own delicious cucumbers and crunchy pickles?

In this article, we’ll give you our recommendations for the best types of cucs to grow in pots as well as our eight tips for successfully growing them in containers. Then we’ll introduce you to some tasty recipes to help you use up your bountiful crop.

Ready to get started?

The Best Type of Cucumbers to Grow in Pots

Like most cucurbits, cucumbers come in two main types: bush and vining. Within each category, there are specific varieties that tend to do well when planted in pots.

Bush Cucumbers

As you can imagine, bushy cucumbers are best suited for life in a container. These compact plants only grow up to about three feet long. This makes containing them in pots much easier, especially if you have limited floor or vertical space around your container garden.

When left to their own devices, these types will cascade down the side of the pots but won’t venture much farther. They can also be trained to grow vertically using a tomato cage or similar setup.

Some of our favorite bush cucumber varieties for growing in pots are:

Bush Slicer – This robust dwarf cuc produces long, straight fruits on short vines. These hardy plants are resistant to disease and grow well in cool and hot weather.
Pick a Bushel – This compact plant produces short, two-foot-long vines and develops fruit early–perfect for short-season climates. They do well in medium-sized pots.
Salad Bush – This undersized plant produces full-sized cucumbers. It was designed to grow in tighter spaces and is perfect for smaller containers.
Spacemaster – As the name entails, this cucumber was selectively bred to grow well in restricted environments. It puts out short vines with medium-sized fruits and matures quickly so you can start enjoying your harvest sooner.

Vining Cucumbers

Vining cucumbers take a little more work to grow in containers, but it can be done. And, because these types tend to produce a lot more fruit, the rewards can be well worth it.

If you do choose a vining cucumber, you have two choices in how to deal with those long vines. You can allow them to cascade down the pots and over the ground around your container garden, or you can tame them to trellises.

Many of these types of cucumbers can grow up to eight feet long, so be sure you have the horizontal or vertical space to spare before you pick up any of these seed varieties.

Here are some of our favorite vining cucumber varieties for growing in pots:

Diva – This special vining variety does not require pollination by insects to produce fruit, which makes it a great choice for container gardens on apartment balconies and other areas that don’t get a lot of bees.
Lemon – These eight-foot-long vines produce fun, round, yellowish fruits that are perfect for snacking. While not compact, they tolerate containers very well.
Suyo Long – This Asian variety produces long vines with long fruit–up to fifteen inches! These perfect slicers are slightly sweet and always a hit.

8 Tips for Growing Cucumbers In Pots

Once you have your preferred variety picked out, it’s time to start planning your container garden. Here are eight tips to help you find success.

1. Choose a sunny location

Cucumbers are big on sun, so look for areas that get at least 8 hours of direct light each day.

Most varieties are heat tolerant, so a bright, sunny, south-facing wall generally works well. But also consider how easy it will be to water and harvest in that location.

Also, consider your trellis options for each possible location. Vining cucs require a large trellis–up to 8 feet high–or a lot of room to spread out along the ground. Bushy cucumbers, on the other hand, will only need a few feet to spread their leaves.

2. Pick the right pot

Plastic, ceramic, and even cloth pots all make excellent choices for growing cucumbers. Before deciding on which type of pot you’ll use, consider if you plan on moving the pots once they are full or if you expect to have to bring them inside (if you start them earlier in the spring or want to extend the season in the fall).

Ceramic pots are likely to be too heavy to heave around once they are filled with soil. While cloth pots are lighter, it is more difficult to contain the moisture that comes out of them, making them a poor choice for using indoors.

Whatever material you choose, just make sure the pot is at least 16 inches deep and a foot wide and can hold around 6 gallons of soil. This will provide plenty of space for most cucumber varieties. Vining types, however, will benefit from a larger, heavier pot, especially if you plan to train them to grow vertically.

Your pot should also have adequate drainage so excess moisture can run through each time you water.

3. Fill your pot with rich soil

Cucumbers require a lot of nutrients to produce the plethora of fruit they are known for. Because of this, it is vitally important to create a rich starting soil for your plants. When growing cucumbers in pots, this is even more important.

As with all container plants, cucumbers will benefit from a high-quality potting soil. This special soil helps retain moisture and airflow better than traditional garden soil.

For cucumbers, in particular, you’ll also want to mix in plenty of compost and some slow-release fertilizer. This will provide your developing plants with plenty of nutrients to get started on the right track and additional nutrients as they begin to produce fruit.

4. Direct sow your seeds

Cucumbers notoriously do not do well with transplanting. For this reason, it is better to buy seeds and direct sow them into your pots than to buy seedlings.

Once you have your soil prepared and well-watered, you are ready to plant your seeds.

Cucumbers are warm-season plants, which means they require soil over 60 degrees to germinate and are not tolerant to freezing temperatures. In most climates, you’ll want to start seeds about two weeks after the last frost. Alternatively, you can move your pots inside and start seeds earlier, then move them outside once the weather warms.

Refer to your seed packet for specific instructions, but in general, you’ll want to plant your cucumber seeds about 1 inch below the soil surface. Plant three in each pot and thin down to the strongest plant once the seedlings have reached a couple of inches tall.

5. Water consistently and add fertilizer as needed

When your seedlings are small and the weather is still cool, you’ll only need to water every few days to keep the soil moist. After the plants get bigger, and especially once they start producing water-logged fruit, you will need to water more often.

The key is to keep the soil consistently moist to the touch at all times, without allowing the dirt to get soggy. Having good drainage holes in the bottom of your pot, or using a cloth pot that constantly drains, will help with this. Once the top of the soil dries, it is time to water again.

If you do the extra work of adding time-release fertilizer when you prepare your soil, you will only have to do supplemental fertilizing once the plants start producing. Creating a fertilizer tea out of grass clippings is a great, cost-effective way to add nutrients. Otherwise, you can use a diluted liquid fertilizer.

In either case, add the fertilizer every three to four weeks throughout the summer.

6. Tame and maintain

Before your seedlings get too big, you’ll want to prepare your trellis or cage.

For bush varieties that you want to train to grow vertically (to reduce space needs and increase airflow), all you need is a tomato cage. Place the cage over the seedling and gently push the vines back inside the wires every few days until they start crawling up.

For vining varieties, you will need to build a long trellis using posts and mesh, netting, or strings. Pea netting is a great option, as is chicken wire. You can also train vines up individual strings for a quick DIY trellis option. Just avoid mesh with holes larger than a ½ inch since developing fruit can get caught and stuck in larger holes.

7. Harvest all summer long

Some cucumber varieties start producing within two months of sowing. Others will take closer to three months. But all will provide continuous fruit throughout the hotter months and into fall.

Picking the cucumbers often (before they start to swell with seeds) will make for tastier fruit and encourage more production.

When taking fruit off the vine, be sure to use scissors or pruners to carefully clip the stem. Pulling or twisting the fruit will damage the sensitive vines and potentially kill any fruits growing upstream.

Fresh cucs can be stored on the counter for a couple of days or in the fridge for a few weeks.

8. Prepare for colder temperatures

Cucumber production will start to slow as soon as temperatures begin to drop in the fall. But the plant won’t die until the first frost.

If you expect an early cold-snap with warm weather to follow, you can use a sheet to protect your large plants or bring smaller, bush varieties indoors.

If you do expect a hard freeze and still have fruits on the vine, pick anything that is close to ripe so you don’t lose it.

Common Problems You Might Face

In addition to being temperamental about transplanting, cucumbers are also sensitive to many pests and diseases. Here are a few issues that may impact your container-grown cucumbers.

Angular leaf spot – This bacterium causes lesions on cucumber leaves that develop into angular holes. This disease will spread quickly through infected ground gardens but the most likely culprit in container gardens is infected seeds. Getting your seeds from a reputable nursery is the best way to avoid this issue.
Powdery mildew – Like all cucurbits, the wide leaves of the cucumber plant are prone to this fungus, which causes white, powdery residue to cover the foliage. Training vines to grow vertically where there is better airflow and less moisture buildup will help you avoid problems with this disease.
Cucumber beetles – These yellow and black beetles are dangerous to cucs for two reasons. Not only do the adults chomp on the leaves, but the larvae feed on the roots of the plant. The best defense against these pests when growing cucumbers in pots is to keep the plants a good distance away from ground gardens and other foliage.

How to Use Your Harvest

By putting our above tips to use, you are sure to end up with a huge harvest. Here are some of our favorite recipes to use up all those cucumbers.

Easy Vegan Summer Pasta Salad – This cucumber-containing salad is refreshing and filling–perfect for any summer evening.
Easy Homemade Vegan Sushi – Cucumbers add a lot of texture and fresh flavor to some of these homemade sushi rolls.
Chickpea & Cucumber Salad – Protein-packed and tasty–what more do you want out of a salad?
Vegan Cobb Salad with Coconut Bacon Bits – The coconut bacon bits try to steal the show, but homegrown cucumbers will hold their own in this delicious salad.

Still have cucs leftover? Here are ten things to do with cucumbers when you have more than you can eat all at once.

Pots and molds. How to grow cucumbers in containers | Kitchen garden | Dacha

06/19/2018 02:04

Elena Popleva

Estimated reading time: 3 minutes

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AIF at the Dacha No. 11. Let's collect 2 times more cucumbers 06/14/2018

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Why is it needed

Once upon a time, cucumbers in pots or in boxes were grown mainly by people who did not have their own acres. But now many summer residents also resort to this method, because in this way it is possible:

extend the cucumber season;
overcome the shortcomings of "weekend gardening": plant cucumbers in the apartment and care for them 5 days a week, not just on weekends;
to save space in the greenhouse or in the garden - pots can be placed on the platform or blind area.

Harvest in 2 stages

In recent years, the division of the summer cottage "cucumber project" into two directions has become fashionable. For the first fruiting, seedlings of cucumbers are planted early in the greenhouse, where, if necessary, they are protected from cold and frost. Simultaneously with planting, several seedling pots are placed between the plants and seeds of "container" varieties are sown in them. By the time the first fruits of greenhouse cucumbers ripen, the seedlings are removed from the greenhouse, transferred to large pots and placed outdoors. Their fruits will begin to arrive just in time for the moment when the inhabitants of the greenhouse "run out of steam." nine0005

What you need

In containers, specially designed varieties of cucumbers with compact vines, small leaves and increased endurance are best suited for this purpose.

Each plant needs a personal pot (always with drainage holes) with a capacity of at least 5-7 liters, filled with loose fertile soil. But at the bottom under the substrate, you need to pour 2–3 cm of broken brick or expanded clay. It is very good to mix the already soaked hydrogel into the soil (up to 25% of the volume). Think in advance of the supports that will support the whips. Very convenient tapestries in the form of wire or wooden structures attached to the pot. But separate tapestries are also suitable, including the twine fixed above. nine0005

Pots and forms

Cucumbers are formed by adapting the shape of the bush to the height of the existing trellis. With a structure height of about 1 meter, the lower 2–3 knots are blinded. In the third and fourth ovaries are left, but the side shoots are plucked out. Leave the branches above and to the center of the trellis, but pinch them into 2 sheets. Even higher, 3-4 leaves are left at the side shoots. The top of the stem is pinched either at the height of the trellis, or higher, but then the whip is fixed and directed down, further stopping its growth at a height of 50 cm from the pot. nine0005

Special attention

In dry weather, cucumbers in containers without adding hydrogel to the substrate will have to be watered daily, with hydrogel - approximately in the same mode as in a greenhouse. You will have to feed the plants about once every 5-7 days. You need to collect greens as they appear.

The advice of Alexey Portyankin and Lyubov Chistyakova was used

How to grow cucumbers on a windowsill

Cucumbers on a windowsill are not the easiest vegetables to grow, especially for containers. But if you choose the right variety and provide the plants with regular care, you can harvest a small crop on the first try, even growing cucumbers at home.

Varieties of cucumbers for window sills and balconies

Cucumbers are divided into types according to the type of cultivation: greenhouse type and open ground. There are also particularly high, “backbone” varieties that do not suit us at all. Limit your selection to greenhouse varieties. Most often, they do not need pollination and produce a good crop of medium-sized cucumbers. nine0005

Bush, Rodnichok, Gherkin, Malyutka, Shorty, Malyshok, NK-mini, Balcony, Hummingbird - under such trade names, weakly branching varieties are “recognized”, which almost do not give lateral lashes.

Cucumber bushes are quite decorative, under all good conditions they give a lot of ovaries. Basically, these are early cucumbers, giving most of the fruits in the first 3 weeks of fruiting. This is an absolute plus, since in room conditions there is most often no need to treat the plant from pests - the diseases do not have time to spread. nine0005

In varieties and hybrids, I’m “not in the tooth”, and I can be wrong 10 times, but having studied the material during the preparation of the article, I found that all medium-sized cucumbers (both fruits and bushes) are F1 hybrids, that is, seeds you won't get much from them, but the plants promise to be fertile, resistant to diseases and adverse conditions, and have exactly the size and branching as stated on the seed package.

Sowing cucumbers

The varieties recommended above do well in 2L flower pots or flower containers for several bushes. I saw on one foreign blog that dwarf bushes grow well in a liter pot, but I would not risk it. nine0022
When the temperature during the day reaches 22-24 degrees, and at night does not fall below 15 degrees - you can sow. In a word, you can sow in late autumn if you provide the plant with constant light, but it is better to wait until spring.
Cucumber is very demanding on the soil, it is advisable to prepare the mixture yourself: 1/1 loam, peat, humus, well-rotted manure. If you take purchased soil, then enrich it with humus - 1/1. You can add a little lime to the soil - no more than a pinch per pot. nine0022
Moisten the soil before sowing, at the bottom of the pot a small layer of drainage.
Cucumber seeds can be sown immediately in a large pot, or in peat for seedlings or in eggshells. When the first true leaves appear on the sprouts, you can plant them in a pot right in the shell.
Seeds are recommended to be treated with potassium permanganate, but if the pathogen is under the seed coat, then such disinfection is useless. Soak the seeds in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate for about 15 minutes. In addition to potassium permanganate, 2-3% hydrogen peroxide is practiced (the seeds can withstand about 5-7 minutes), and phytosporin. nine0022
Seeds should be allowed to dry.
Bury the seed 1 cm, sprinkle the soil with water and wait for the first shoots, covering with a bag. Ventilate and monitor soil moisture.
As soon as shoots appear, put the seedlings in the sunniest place, but shade during the hottest hours so that they do not burn.
A highly diluted fertilizer can be applied after 2 weeks.
Cucumbers love moisture. Abundant watering every other day, or every day in the morning or evening on the hottest days. Watering through the pallet is welcome. Cucumbers are very fond of spraying in the mornings and evenings, when direct sunlight does not threaten them. In addition, it is the prevention of spider mites. nine0022

How to tie up cucumbers

To make the stems look good and help them bear the weight of the fruit, they should be tied to a support or netting. The main stem should be strengthened, and the side shoots have every right to trail where they want. Barren shoots that block the light of flowers and fruits can be removed.

Harvest

Harvest fruit without overgrowing and overripe. The sooner you cut, the sooner new ovaries will appear.