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Planting a fruit tree


Fruit Tree Care: Planting Fruit Trees

Few things in life bring the same satisfaction as planting fruit trees. Learn to avoid future problems by following simple planning steps before you plant.

When it comes to planting fruit trees, we can never stress enough the importance of the planning stage. This includes choosing the best spot for your new planting above the ground and below the ground. We highly recommend that you contact your local utility department before digging to prevent damage to cables, pipes, and other underground structures.

Too often we encounter troubles because we act first and think later. That’s why, when planting an orchard or even a few trees in the back yard, it’s a good idea to take a step back and visualize how our efforts will look 10 years from now. Remember, the time difference between a vegetable garden and productive fruit trees can be years! It's also well worth the wait, so, to start things off right, let’s avoid future problems by considering a few key things before planting.

I. The Planting Site

Have you chosen a place free of interference? Is it far enough from power lines, sewer lines, sidewalks, etc.? Visualize your tree 10 years from now in the location you've chosen, and ask yourself those questions.

Questions to Ask
  1. What is the mature height & width of my tree?
  2. Is the planting site far enough away from power lines? Sewers? Sidewalks?
  3. Will the tree branches interfere with other trees growing nearby?
  4. Does my planting site get 5-8 hours of sunlight?
  5. Is my planting site well-drained, or does it hold water?
  6. Does my planting site have fertile soil, or will I need to amend it with a medium like coco-fiber or compost?

If your tree could talk, it would ask for a well-drained, fertile location with plenty of sunlight. While a full day's sun is great, trees can still thrive and produce on a half-day's light; and most trees are forgiving of imperfect soil conditions. If your ground is a little heavy, consider using our coco-fiber medium. Just drop the brick into 1 1/3 gallons of warm/hot water, 30 minutes before planting. When refilling the hole, work the coco-fiber into the soil and finish planting. This will give the root system air and allow for water absorption as the roots develop.

Planting Tips

II.  Digging the Hole

When digging the hole, a good rule of thumb is to remove a space nearly twice the width and depth of the roots. You don't want the roots cramped or circled. The area you loosen is the area the roots will quickly grow into to anchor and sustain the tree's top. This simple task helps determine both how good the foundation will be years later and how well the plant utilizes two much-needed ingredients: air and water.

III.  Planting the Tree

The Soil

You know the soil you dug up first, right underneath the grass? When refilling your planting hole, it's always best to place that soil in first. It's usually more fertile, as well as more porous, and when placed down near the roots, it will help the tree grow better. The remaining soil (from the bottom of the dug hole) is heavier and works well when mixed with the Coco-Fiber Medium. From top to bottom, work the soil with your hands to avoid large clods that create air pockets.

Graft Placement

When you refill your planting hole, hold the tree up a bit to allow loose soil to fall beneath, as well as around the sides of, the roots. Center its position so there is adequate space on all sides for the root system to grow out. If you are planting a dwarf or semi-dwarf apple tree, hold the bud union up above the refill line – this is the "bump" above the root system of the tree where the rootstock was grafted to the varietal top. If given the opportunity, grafted apple trees will self-root; if the variety self-roots, you’ll lose the size-restrictive nature of the rootstock. (Did you know the rootstock is responsible for the mature size of your tree, i.e. dwarf, semi-dwarf, standard? We don't want to lose that sizing characteristic — it would definitely throw a rock in your long-term plan!)

Finishing Touches

Through the process, keep the tree straight (perpendicular) and, upon finishing, tamp the tree in with your foot to remove air spaces and seal it in. If the tree is planted on a slope, create a slight berm on the lower side to utilize water throughout the summer.  If it’s not pre-pruned before you plant it, be sure to prune your tree, and water it well.

There are few things in life that have the sustainability and bring the same satisfaction as growing a fruit tree. The years following will be spent measuring the tree’s progress and reaping its rewards. That’s a "10-year" vision – yep! I saw the future before I began; how about you?

— Elmer Kidd, Stark Bro's Chief Production Officer (retired)

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A Guide to Planting Fruit Trees

Having fruit trees is a great perk of owning a backyard. And having a guide to planting fruit trees in your backyard is even better. Planting fruit trees requires a little more thought and effort than non-fruit or evergreen trees but it isn’t difficult if you have the right information.

Fruit trees just became a whole lot easier:

When Should You Plant Fruit Trees?

In the northern U.S., plant fruit trees as soon as the ground thaws in the spring. In the southern U.S., plant fruit trees in early winter. 

Northern U.S.: The best time to plant fruit trees in the North is as early in the spring as possible after the frost has left the ground but after it has dried out. Spring planting prevents trees from adversely low temperatures through the winter. Bare-root trees establish well when planted in mid to late spring. 

Pro Tip: Dig your shovel into the soil and pull it out. If the soil comes out in clumps that stick to the shovel, wait for the soil to drain further before planting.

Southern U. S.: For those in the South, Texas A&M recommends planting fruit trees in early winter to help fruit trees establish root systems before the end of their dormancy. The golden rule is to try to plant the tree while it is still in its dormant state.

Choosing a Fruit Tree

Photo Credit: Magda Ehlers / Pexels / CC0

Regardless of the type of fruit tree you are planting, there are two different buying options: bare-root and container-grown trees. They both have their advantages and disadvantages that should be considered when you’re looking to purchase a tree or trees.

Option 1: Bare-Root

Option 2: Container-Grown 

Select the Best Tree to Purchase

Now that you’ve decided upon bare-root or container-grown, it’s good to know how to look for the best specimen(s) to purchase when you go shopping. 

When buying bare-root fruit trees look for specimens with healthy roots and no major breakage. If purchasing container-grown fruit trees, look for ones that have good leaf color, no damage to the bark, no signs of disease, have spent less than 2 years in the container, and have the lower limb structure you are looking for.

Choose and Prepare a Site

Photo Credit: 7raysmarketing / Needpix

Choose a planting site with the following characteristics:

It’s best to dig the hole just prior to planting to avoid sidewall glazing, or the hole filling with water. The most important thing to remember is to dig the hole to fit the roots; don’t force the roots to fit the hole!

Using a sturdy digging shovel (I prefer one with a pointed center), dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the root system on your tree. Aim for a hole that is about two to three times as wide as the roots and only 2 to 3 inches deeper, regardless if you are planting a bare-root or a container tree. 

If the soil is sandy or has a lot of clay, dig an area much larger than what you will need for the hole, working in a fair amount of rotted manure or finished compost. Do not add fertilizer to the hole, as this encourages the tree roots to stay in this nutrient-rich zone instead of branching out in the surrounding soil to “look” for food.

How to Plant Fruit Trees

The drawing below summarizes the major steps, with many additional details added below.

Credit: Amanda Shiffler / LawnStarter.com

Supplies you will Need

First, a heads-up: Planting is easier if you have help from someone else but can be accomplished with only one person.

Bare-root trees: Put the roots in a bucket of water in a shaded location for 1 to 2 hours prior to planting. Trim off any broken or damaged roots. 

Container-grown trees: Carefully remove from the pot. Shake out as much of the growing media as you can, and splay the roots out as much as possible.

Bare root Tree
Photo Credit: UC Santa Cruz Center for Agroecology / Youtube

1. Loosen the Sidewalls of the Hole

This can be done by slashing the side of the hole with a spade or shovel, or sticking the garden fork into the sides like you would tenderize meat. Loosening the sidewalls allows the roots to easily penetrate the soil surrounding the hole as the tree grows.

2. Remove any Labels

Take them off to prevent trunk girdling as it grows larger.

3. Place the Tree in the Hole at the Correct Depth

Photo Credit: Mike Greer / Pexels / CC0

The depth at which you plant your new fruit tree is critical! Many people plant their trees too deeply, and it severely hinders proper growth. Apple trees have been grafted onto a special rootstock, meaning two different trees (the fruiting portion and the rooting portion) have been carefully joined together to create a hybrid tree. 

If this graft is placed below the soil line, the upper fruiting part of the tree will generate roots, a process known as scion rooting, negating the grafting process to result in a tree with a weaker root system.

Grab a friend, and let’s start planting:

4. Fill in the Hole

Gently tamp the soil down with your foot as you fill the hole in, trying to remove all air pockets, without compacting the soil around the roots. Create a slight bowl or depression as you reach the top of the hole to allow water to settle naturally around the tree. Make sure you do not mound soil up around the trunk.

5. Provide Support

A newly planted tree needs staking for the first two to four years after planting until the trunk is strong enough to support itself, especially if the tree is planted in a site prone to heavy winds.  

Using your hammer, drive the tree support into the edge of the hole (trying to avoid as many of the roots as possible) either perpendicular to the ground, or angled slightly away from the tree trunk. Secure the tree to the support along the bottom 3 feet of the trunk. Use ties made from a soft material such as rubber or old nylon stockings.

6. Water the Newly Planted Tree

Worth the wait: author Amanda Shiffler with an apple from her backyard tree.

Even if you soaked your bare-root tree prior to planting, all trees need water immediately. Give it 2-5 gallons of water. Go slowly; let the water absorb before adding more. The water helps settle the soil around the roots, getting rid of any air pockets that may have formed when you were filling the hole in. 

You may need to add more soil or firm it down again after watering.

7. Mulch Around the Base of the Tree

Mulching retains soil moisture in the root zone and minimizes weeds, reducing competition that can slow a new tree’s growth. Use well-rotted manure or finished compost to a depth of about 1 inch, fanning out to a distance of about 3 feet from the bottom of the trunk.

Always keep the mulch at least 3 inches away from the tree’s trunk and never let the mulch touch the bark on the tree. 

8. Protect your Young Tree from Deer and Rabbits

Until its bark toughens, your tree risks being snacked on by deer and Peter Cottontail. If they eat the bark, it will damage your tree, potentially killing it. Chicken wire and other types of fencing provide the best option to keep animals away. 

If only rabbits drop by for a meal, a shorter fence close to the trunk will do; deer require taller fencing spaced a couple of feet from the tree to keep them from reaching the higher branches as the tree grows.

9. Prune your Newly Planted Fruit Tree

Pruning encourages root growth and also side-branching the following spring. A good rule of thumb is to prune the tree to a height of 30- to 36-inches; many apple and pear trees are pruned to create a single, central leader as they grow. Pruning at the right time can also make a difference.

The top bud will grow over time to form the central leader or main trunk of the tree. Remove any branches from the bottom 18 inches of the tree.

Pro Tip: Short on space? Learn how to espalier your fruit tree. Espalier is a space-saving technique that works well against a wall or fence. 

10. Water it Well Again the Following Day

The next day water it well again, giving it another 2-5 gallons. After this point, basic tree care takes over, although pruning apple trees requires some special care. Then begin a schedule where the tree is watered weekly if you are in an area that doesn’t receive at least 1 inch of water weekly through rainfall.

FAQ About Fruit Trees

Now that you know how to plant a fruit tree, here are a few basic questions people have about growing fruit trees:

Can Fruit Trees be Grown from Seed?

Unfortunately, no, for some types of trees you shouldn’t try to plant them from seeds, although you or your kids may be tempted to try it. This is true for apples and pears especially; there is too much variability in the seeds because of pollination. 

Stone fruits such as peaches, apricots, and nectarines are less variable, and you can try to grow one from seed. Your chances of being successful are lower than buying a young tree, but the cost is obviously reduced. 

Can Fruit Trees be Planted in Containers?

Yes, you can plant fruit trees in containers. Cherries, peaches, apples, tangerines, figs, lemons, and limes are among the many types of fruit trees that thrive in containers. While it opens up the possibility of growing trees in a small space, there are some drawbacks. 

If you plant a fruit tree in a container, the overall size of the tree will be much smaller because the root system doesn’t have the space to grow outward, and you won’t see the same amount of fruit production. Trees in containers also have a much shorter lifespan unless you opt for a dwarf variety.

Do You Have to Plant Fruit Trees in Pairs?

Often, but not always. Most fruit trees need to be pollinated with at least two or three compatible trees. This means if possible, you should plant a couple of trees to encourage pollination, giving them about 50 feet of space between the trees. 

However, if you are in an urban area and there are neighboring yards with apple or crabapple trees, you should be OK to plant only one. (My neighborhood is filled with apple trees, so it isn’t an issue for me to have a single tree in the backyard.) 

The chance of neighboring trees of other fruiting varieties (peach, plum, cherry) may not be so high, so either check with neighbors or err on the side of caution and plant a couple.

Fruit Trees: How Many Years to Fruit?

I’ll admit, this is one of the biggest drawbacks of planting fruit trees. Fruit trees purchased from a nursery, online retailer, or garden center, are typically 1-2 years old at the time of purchase. They take additional years after planting to grow and mature enough before they start to fruit. 

The typical time from planting to fruit is:

• Citrus 1-2 years
• Fig: 2-4 years
• Peach 2-4 years
• Plum 3-5 years
• Sour or tart cherry 3-5 years
• Apple trees 4-5 years
• Pear 4-6 years
• Mulberry: 10 years, sorry!

Apples and pear trees grown on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock will fruit much earlier, notes Iowa State University Extension and Outreach.

Call the Tree Experts

Fruit trees are a lovely addition to any yard, and they don’t have to be challenging. If you’re worried about your newly planted fruit trees, call a local tree care professional for any assistance, tips, or services.

Main Image Credit: Chubykin Arkady / Shutterstock

Amanda Shiffler

Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.

Posts by Amanda Shiffler

Planting fruit trees

There are a few things to consider when planting fruit trees if you want to have a bountiful harvest. Here you will find the most important tips.

Planting a fruit tree is not just planting a tree in a hole. The intensity of growth and fruiting of a tree largely depends on proper planting: the decisive factor here is the deep loosening of the soil. Only then can the roots of the tree penetrate deep enough into the ground. If a fruit tree is planted in compacted soil, it will react with stunting and premature aging, both of which cannot be corrected by subsequent pruning!

Whether your seedling's roots are in a planting container or free, you need to dig a hole that is at least twice the depth and width of the root system. Loosen the bottom of the pit to the maximum possible depth, reliably eliminating possible compactions. Drive a stake into the hole so that it can securely support the young tree. The stake should be on the leeward side so that the wind in its main direction presses the tree against the stake, and not vice versa!

On trees without a container, cut off the ends of the thick roots before planting with a sharp knife to remove the lint - new thin roots are more likely to grow on a fresh cut. These new incisions should be directed downward. When removing damaged roots, keep thin roots, this is very important. For trees with a container, correct possible root twists by trimming them in one place.

Lower the tree into the hole, placing it on the stake, so that the trunk is as close to the stake as possible. The grafting site of the tree (the thickening of the trunk about a hand's width above the roots) should be about ten centimeters above soil level after the hole is filled with earth. This is the grafting site and should not subsequently sink into the ground, otherwise the tree will react with overgrowth and reduced yields.

Fill the hole with earth, trample it down lightly and moisten the roots liberally (about 10 to 20 liters of water). Constantly adjust the planting depth. Do not mix any peat or mineral fertilizers with the soil being filled up to the roots. At best, mix in one-third of the compost and a handful of agricultural lime (except quince, see below).

Tie the tree to the stake with coconut fiber or other suitable material. If you are using coconut string (usually cheaper), then tie a knot so that it looks like an "8" on top. To prevent the rope from tightening during the subsequent growth of the trunk (in this case, there is a threat of breaking the tree!), Loosen the binding rope in a timely manner. This is usually required to be done between the beginning of July and August.

Tip: If you have voles in your garden, surround the tree's roots before planting with a tightly closed Rabitsa wire mesh basket to protect the tidbits from rodents.

Planting fruit trees in autumn: timing, recommendations, advantages and disadvantages of planting in autumn

CONTENTS: Which fruit trees can be planted in autumn Recommendations for planting seedlings Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting

Many gardeners prefer to plant fruit trees in the autumn, as such an agrotechnical event has its own number of advantages and further pleases the owners with a rich harvest.

What fruit trees can be planted in autumn?

The following trees are excellent for planting in autumn:

Moreover, planting in the fall is well tolerated by many varieties of plums. Gardeners believe that almost all types of trees are suitable for planting in the fall, but there are representatives of fruit trees that are too sensitive. Such species are too susceptible to winter cold and do not adapt well to frost. For example, peach, cherry, apricot. It is also not known how fruit trees will behave, which were delivered from other climatic regions and have not yet endured wintering. They just may not take root, so it's better not to risk it.

The most successful autumn months for planting new fruit trees in the garden are September and October. Autumn for trees is physiological rest, so they take root well. Also, the beginning and middle of autumn are a comfortable period for seedlings in terms of adaptation, the plants practically do not get sick.

Recommendations for planting seedlings

Before planting a seedling, you need to choose a place. It is important to understand that a fruit tree is planted, and it should be comfortable in the garden throughout its life. Every gardener knows that the harvest will depend on how the young tree grows, develops and feels. After all, the roots can grow several meters underground, and the crown can be too sprawling with powerful branches.

When planting a seedling, it is necessary to take into account what is located nearby:

It must be remembered that autumn planting has its own nuances. For this period, 1-2 year old seedlings are best suited, the shoots must be ripe, lignified along the entire length, and the buds formed. The viability of a tree directly depends on its root system. The roots should hold tightly in a coma of the earth, but not braid it.

In autumn, two important rules are observed. The planting of a young tree is carried out together with a clod of earth. You need to plant a seedling a month before frost. Small trees will be able to grow absorbent roots and get stronger before the arrival of a capricious spring.

Autumn planting differs from spring planting in that the roots of the plant are not shortened in autumn. The composition of the soil and the location of groundwater are taken into account. In the process of planting, the roots of the plant are protected from drying. For two-year-old seedlings, the diameter of the pit should be a meter or a little more, and the depth should be half a meter. If the garden is located on not too fertile soil, then the depth of the planting pit increases to a meter.

In order to plant a seedling with high quality, you need to observe some important details. The root neck is placed 4-6 cm above the soil. In the future, the soil may compact and settle and, accordingly, the young tree will sink a little deeper. In the process of planting, you need to monitor the roots, they should not twist and turn up. When backfilling with fertile soil, it is necessary to ensure that the soil carefully covers all the branches of the roots.

Advantages of autumn planting