Home » Misc » Outside faucets freeze

Outside faucets freeze


How to Prevent Outdoor Spigots From Freezing

By

Bob Formisano

Bob Formisano

Bob Formisano is a licensed architect and builder with nearly 40 years of experience building new homes and restoring older homes. One of his specialties is repairing old systems dating back to the 1920s, including galvanized water pipes, knob-and-tube wiring, and more. His home repair articles for The Spruce span more than 10 years.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 08/02/22

Reviewed by

Richard Epstein

Reviewed by Richard Epstein

Richard Epstein is a licensed master plumber with over 40 years experience in residential and commercial plumbing. He specializes in estimating as well as design and engineering for plumbing systems, and he works for one of New York's largest union plumbing construction companies.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Fact checked by

Jessica Wrubel

Fact checked by Jessica Wrubel

Jessica Wrubel has an accomplished background as a writer and copy editor, working for various publications, newspapers and in public libraries assisting with reference, research and special projects. In addition to her journalism experience, she has been educating on health and wellness topics for over 15 years in and outside of the classroom.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

Project Overview

Worrying about outdoor spigots freezing every winter is something that most homeowners can relate to. But this doesn't have to be such a perennial problem.

If you have a standard spigot, there are simple winterizing steps you can take that make it unlikely you'll have a problem with freezing. You can also go a step further and replace a standard faucet with a frost-proof faucet.

What Is a Frost-Proof Faucet?

A frost-proof (also called "freezeproof" or "frost-free") faucet provides better protection against freezing and eliminates the need to winterize the faucet—other than removing the hose.

Keep reading for two ways to prevent your outdoor spigots from freezing during the wintertime.

Equipment / Tools

Winterizing a Standard Spigot
Installing a Frost-Proof Faucet

Materials

Winterizing a Standard Spigot
Installing a Frost-Proof Faucet

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

How to Winterize a Standard Spigot

  1. Remove the Hose

    If there is still a garden hose connected to the outdoor faucet, remove it from the spigot, drain any residual water in the hose, coil it up, and store it in a dry location.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  2. Shut off the Water

    Locate the control valve on the water supply pipe leading to the outdoor spigot. If you have metal water pipes, this is usually a brass ball valve located several feet from the outside wall. Turn the handle on the control valve clockwise until it stops. If the valve has a lever-type handle, turn the lever so it is perpendicular to the pipe.

    Tip

    As you can see, preventing a standard (not frost-proof) spigot from freezing requires a shutoff valve on the supply pipe leading to the faucet. If your spigot does not have this kind of shutoff valve, it's best to install one to simplify annual winterizing tasks.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  3. Drain the Spigot

    Fully open the outdoor spigot and let all residual water drain out of the pipe. If the water trickles and never fully stops, the indoor shutoff valve is faulty and must be replaced. Close the spigot valve.

    Hold a bucket under the shutoff valve and remove the bleeder cap on the valve, if it is equipped with one. You may need pliers to loosen the cap. Let all residual water in the line drain into the bucket. Reinstall the bleeder cap, and tighten it snugly.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  4. Install an Insulated Faucet Cover

    Add an insulated faucet sock or faucet cover to the faucet, if desired. Although these covers don't create any heat of their own, they do trap a small amount of heat radiating from the house, and this is usually enough to prevent the faucet from freezing and bursting—especially if you have also followed the recommended steps for draining the pipes.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

How to Install a Frost-Proof Faucet

The surest way to prevent an outside faucet from freezing is to replace a standard faucet with a frost-proof one known as a sill-cock. These faucets are controlled with a long rod that extends into the home, where a cartridge or compression valve controls the flow of water. Since the valve itself is located within the safe warmth of the home, it is almost impossible for it to freeze.

A frost-proof faucet is a 6- to 20-inch unit with a hose spigot and control handle at one end and a connector on the other end of the tube for attaching to the indoor water pipe. As a further safety measure, these faucets are designed to be self-draining; when you shut off the faucet handle, any residual water in the long stem will drain out of the tube.

These faucets can be attached to the plumbing pipe with a compression, soldered, PEX, or push-fit connection. For most people, it's best to buy a faucet with a push-fit style of connector, such as the SharkBite brand. This will be the easiest install, as it requires no soldering and can be used with any type of water supply pipe.

If you have trouble finding a frost-proof faucet with a push-fit connector, you can use a standard threaded type, and then use a female threaded-to-push-fit transition fitting to join it to the water pipe. If you have PEX tubing in your home, there are also frost-free faucets that are fitted with PEX-type connectors.

Warning

A project of this scale is best left only to professionals or experienced DIYers: Do not attempt this unless you are confident in your plumbing skills.

  1. Shut off and Drain the Water

    Turn off the water to the supply pipe leading to the outdoor spigot. If the water pipe does not have its own control valve, you must turn off the water to the entire house, using the home's main shutoff valve.

    Open the outdoor spigot and drain the remaining water from the supply pipe.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  2. Remove the Old Spigot

    To remove the outdoor faucet spout, start by removing any mounting screws, then turn the spout counterclockwise to unscrew it from the end of the pipe. You may need to use a pair of channel-lock pliers to twist the faucet spout. Pull the faucet out from the wall on the exterior side. Purchase a new frost-free faucet of the same size. It is important that the length and diameter of the pipe match the old faucet.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  3. Prepare the Water Supply Pipe

    Because of the long valve stem on a frost-proof faucet, it is usually necessary to cut the water supply pipe where the tube of the faucet will connect to it. Use a tubing cutter (for copper pipe), a hacksaw (for galvanized steel or PVC pipe), or a PEX tubing cutter for PEX pipe. Remove and discard the cut-off section of pipe running to the outside of the house.

    Debur the inside and outside of the cut end of the water supply pipe with sandpaper or emery cloth. Make sure the outside of the pipe is clean and smooth so it can accept the connection fitting on the new frost-proof faucet.

    Mark the end of the pipe at the push-in distance specified by the manufacturer (usually about 1 inch from the cut end of the pipe).

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  4. Attach the Frost-Proof Faucet

    Insert the frost-proof faucet through the wall from the outside and position the spout so it is right-side-up. Go inside and push the faucet's fitting end straight onto the pipe, pushing as far as the fitting will go. It should reach the push-in mark on the pipe, indicating the pipe is fully inserted into the fitting.

    If you are using a standard threaded-type faucet, screw on the push-fit transition fitting to the faucet's tube first, before attaching it to the water pipe.

    From the outside of the house, secure the faucet flange to the wall surface using corrosion-resistant screws, which are usually provided with the faucet.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  5. Test the Faucet

    Open the valve on the faucet, then turn the water back on at the shutoff valve and allow water to run freely out of the faucet spigot. Open and close the faucet spigot several times to confirm that it is working properly and that there is no leaking where the faucet tube connects to the water pipe.

    When satisfied that the faucet works correctly, seal the joint between the faucet flange and the house wall with exterior caulk.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

Stop Outdoor Faucets from Freezing First

Return to Expert Tips main page

When chilling temperatures arrive, it’s not a matter of “if” you should pay closer attention to your outdoor faucets, but “when” and “how.” Even if you live in a warmer climate, the occasional cold spell has the power to do incredible damage to your pipes. Neighborly is here to help you stop the faucet freeze before it starts! Use this guide to prevent frozen/burst pipes and the costly damage that follows.

Why Cover Your Faucets?

Your outdoor pipes and faucets are vulnerable to freezing and bursting in the wintertime due to an increase in water pressure. Freezing and bursting often result in expensive water damage and repair costs for your home.

If you live in a warmer climate, you’re not exactly in the clear – in fact, because homes in warmer climates aren’t built for the cold, your pipes are likely not insulated well and are therefore more vulnerable.

Protect Your Pipes

The pipes in your home get to piggyback off the protection and insulation your home provides, but your outdoor pipes aren’t so lucky! That’s why it’s crucial to take care of your outdoor faucets and pipes when the winter months arrive.

Frozen pipes? Don’t panic! Check out these quick ideas and recommendations:

Don’t wait until a cold front to pay attention to your pipes! Use this guide to protect them before a freeze.

Didn’t get to them fast enough? Mr. Rooter Plumbing, a Neighborly Family brand, is ready to help! Check out more of our service brands at Neighborly.com.

Tags:

Category:

Invalid zip code

Some of the Neighborly home service brands mentioned in this post may not be available in your zip code. To find out which experts are nearby, search for services in your area.

Depending on current health and safety regulations in your area, some of the services mentioned in this post may not be available. Neighborly service providers will follow the latest health and safety guidelines provided by the local and state governments. Please check with your local Neighborly service provider for details at the time you need service(s).

Use the Neighborly App to get connected to local home service professionals. Download and receive offers only available on the App.

Download It Today

 

Back to top

Reasons for the appearance of ice and frost on the external and internal unit of the air conditioner, what to do

The air conditioner is a convenient climatic device that creates a comfortable temperature in the house during the hot season. However, during the operation of the air conditioner, many owners often have to deal with various equipment malfunctions, one of which is the “symptom” of freezing of the outdoor or indoor unit.

In the article we will consider the reasons for the formation of frost on the indoor or outdoor unit of the air conditioner, how to solve the problem.

 

Contents:

Why the air conditioner is covered with frost and ice

There are a lot of reasons for the appearance of frost and ice on different parts of the air conditioner, and not all of them indicate the presence of malfunctions.

When freezing of the air conditioner is not a breakdown:

  1. When it is very cold on a hot day, a layer of light frost may appear on the evaporator. This symptom is not a cause for concern.
  2. When defrosting the outdoor unit, when the air conditioner is heating, ice may form in a small amount, which is also not a reason to call a specialist.

When the indoor unit of the air conditioner freezes

The appearance of frost and frost on different elements of the indoor unit may indicate operational errors and other problems associated with a malfunction of some elements of climate technology.

When the indoor unit freezes and how to fix the problem:

  1. Severe contamination of the indoor unit mechanisms, which causes ice to form on the evaporator. The air conditioner starts to cool the air poorly, water may drip from the unit, an atypical crack is heard during the operation of the device. Complex cleaning of filters, fan, evaporator and other elements of the indoor module will help to solve the problem.
  2. Refrigerant leak, system depressurization. With such malfunctions, the performance of the split equipment decreases, the evaporator freezes, and the device itself works non-stop, trying to “catch up” with the desired temperature. Such a malfunction is eliminated only by experienced specialists from the service center.
  3. The reason for the formation of frost may be the failure of the temperature sensor. In this case, it needs to be replaced.
  4. A clogged capillary tube has occurred. It is not so easy to clean it yourself, you will need a special high-pressure compressor.
  5. Poor flaring or crease of thin copper tube. In this case, the damaged area is repaired or the part is replaced.
  6. Control module failure. Repair or complete replacement of the failed control board is required.

Freezing of the evaporator of the indoor unit can occur due to incorrectly selected temperature conditions, as well as due to errors in the installation of equipment. To accurately determine and eliminate the malfunction, it is recommended to seek help from the masters from the service center.

Frost on the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Frost can also form on the parts of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, which usually occurs more often when the equipment is running on heating. Consider what malfunctions this alarming “symptom” occurs and how you can solve the identified problem.

Causes of frost on the outdoor unit:

  1. Contamination of the fan and heat exchanger with street dust and debris. The owner of the device can fix the problem if there is free access to the outdoor module. To do this, clean contaminated parts using a high pressure washer or clean water jet.
  2. Moisture has got inside the device and provoked freezing of a thin tube, as a result of which it is covered with ice. This problem, in turn, leads to difficulty in the movement of the refrigerant, and as a result, freezing of the entire outdoor unit occurs.
  3. For normal operation of the air conditioner at low temperatures, a smaller amount of refrigerant is required, and if freon is in excess in the system, freezing occurs. The problem is eliminated by removing freon in a small amount. This work is carried out by experienced craftsmen.

Freezing of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner also occurs if it is used for heating when the outside air temperature is lower than indicated in the user manual.

What to do to stop the air conditioner from frosting up

If ice is found on the indoor or outdoor unit of the air conditioner, it is necessary to disconnect the device from the mains and wait for it to completely thaw. After that, an inspection of the internal parts is carried out to determine the exact cause of the malfunction.

If frosting occurs due to contamination of internal parts, the owner can clean them using water, soapy water and a soft cloth.

Not every person is able to independently understand the device of climate equipment in order to determine the exact cause of the malfunction. Experienced specialists from the service center, who accept applications for repair and maintenance of split systems all year round, will help to solve any problem with a malfunction of the air conditioner.

What to do to prevent the water in the garden tap from freezing

To keep the tap water from freezing

Most cottages and private houses have at least one faucet that goes outside, for example, to water the garden or for other household needs. What needs to be done so that the water in the tap does not freeze ?

Garden taps are usually installed close to the house or directly in the ground floor wall, usually several tens of centimeters above the ground. This first solution is less convenient because you have to bend over to put on the end of the hose and unscrew or turn off the water. However, it is easier to drain the water from such a low faucet before the onset of winter and thus protect it from damage. Not all owners do not forget to drain water from pipelines before the onset of frost.

Winter exposure to water

Frozen water (ice) during its expansion forms cracks both on the tap itself and on the supply pipeline. Damaged can be not only a faucet installed in the wall from the side of the garden, but also a faucet in an unheated garage. Theoretically, the temperature inside the garage is always warmer than outside the house, but it can be cold enough that water left in the faucet for the winter freezes and bursts it along with the end of the supply pipe.

If there is a faucet in an unheated garage, it must also be drained before winter.
Paradoxically, always noticeable damage to the faucet is a more favorable situation than when the pipeline itself has a small crack under the influence of water freezing in it. Indeed, when using a tap in the spring, water can penetrate the thickness of the wall of the house for a very long time before a leak is noticed.

Worst of all, when the water passing through the pipeline enters the structures (floors) of the first floor, in the case when the damage site is far enough away from the outer walls.

There were cases when the owners of the house noticed in the summer a damp spot on the wall of the living room, very close to the floor. Since the summer was very rainy and the water table in the area had risen significantly, they began to suspect that poor insulation of the foundations was the cause of the moisture. The specialist, having examined the wall and the section of the foundation with waterproofing, ruled out leakage through the foundation.

The reason for this, as it turned out after a long "hydraulic" search, was a crack at the end of the pipeline far behind the garden tap.

We drain the water so that it does not freeze

No one doubts that it is necessary to drain the water from the automatic garden irrigation system for the winter, because otherwise - after the appearance of cracks in many places of the hose hidden deep underground - our lawn can turn into a huge fountain in the spring. However, to keep your faucet from freezing, don't forget to drain your garden faucet, especially if you've made it through the first winter without having finished building your house and nothing bad has happened.

Meanwhile, this action should be considered as one of the mandatory actions that must be performed at the end of autumn, firstly, because, as the experience of many homeowners shows, the elimination of the consequences of such an omission is often not limited to simply replacing the faucet, and secondly , we no longer use water from this tap during the cold season.

Draining the pipe is easiest when the garden tap is low to the ground. All you need to do is open it, then unscrew the faucet itself, and all the water from this section of the pipe will be drained.

When a watering tap is relatively high, it becomes more difficult to drain water from it, unless a specialist plumber has fitted it with a drain valve at the point where the vertical section of the pipeline becomes horizontal. If the installation does not have such a tap, then the water is drained inside the house, after unscrewing the garden tap and an additional tap located as close to the floor as possible.

Thus, without additional manipulations (for example, purging the pipeline with a compressor), we can remove water from the tap and part of the vertical section of the pipe. However, this is enough to protect the installation from freezing, since the water pipe, which is laid deep in the wall, is in a warmer environment and is protected from freezing by a layer of wall material, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

If during the construction of the house on the water pipe to the garden there was no additional tap to drain the garden installation, then this can be done using modern technology at any time.

An additional tap may not be needed at all if a backflow prevention valve has been installed after the water meter, which protects the drinking water in the water supply from contamination if, for various reasons, the flow was reversed, that is, from the internal installation to the network. When such a check valve is installed, it is enough to unscrew the drain valve in it to drain the garden water from the pipe.

Learn more