Interior paint schemes
20 Designer-Approved Interior Color Schemes To Try Now
Design: West of Main, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
In interior design, two colors are better than one, and three are better than two. But with thousands of colors and millions of shades to choose from, how could you possibly create a combination that works? The answer: With some professional guidance.
We tapped 20 interior designers for the tried and true color schemes they find themselves revisiting time after time. Whether you prefer rich colors with a glamorous feel or cool tones that look coastal chic, here are 20 pairings to incorporate in every room of your home.
01 of 20
Design: Valerie Darden of Brexton Cole Interiors, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Almost everyone loves blue, and it's easy to see why.
"One of my favorite color schemes is a simple Parisian grayish-blue paired with natural beige tones and the addition of gold hardware," Valerie Darden, head designer of Brexton Cole Interiors says. "I mixed this combo together for this master bedroom, using Sherwin Williams' Silver Grey on the walls. I was inspired by Marie Antionette! It gives the room a calm and serene atmosphere."
02 of 20
Design: Valerie Darden of Brexton Cole Interiors, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For a bold look, try green and red. We promise it won't look like Christmas.
"I love pairing hunter green and rich reds together, especially for boys' rooms," Darden says. "I like this color combo because it can give a vintage vibe to any room when paired with the right accessories. In this boy's bedroom, we went for the old-world collegiate look. The room looks adorable paired with plaids and a gallery wall mixed with vintage style frames and toys."
03 of 20
Design: Diana Weinstein, Photo: Jane Beiles, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Blue is extra calming, but a pop of bright colors can give it the oomph it needs.
"I love how fresh and young the bright pops of fluorescent hues make a soft blue wall color feel," designer Diana Weinstein says.
"The boldness of these neons adds an edge to what is typically a more traditional design. The clients on this specific home didn't like to take risks with color, but we encouraged them to try out this rug and tweed armchairs with these fun pops of pinks and yellows and oranges in them. This is now their favorite room."
04 of 20
Design: Desiree Burns Interiors, Photo: Tamara Flanagan, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
If you're in the market for more earthy tones, green cannot be beat.
"I love incorporating pops of green as an accent color throughout a neutral home," Desiree Burns, the founder of Desiree Burns Interiors explains. "Bolder shades like forest green pack a big punch and make a beautiful impact, especially when combined with neutrals like light gray. It's a nice balance of a bold color counteracted by a neutral and works in almost any room! Whether you're going bohemian, rustic, farmhouse, contemporary, or glam, I think this color palette speaks to all different design styles.
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05 of 20
Design: Latham Interiors, Photo: Mike Schirf, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
A classic color combination found everywhere from Cape Cod homes to beach California bungalows, a pairing of blue and white is never a bad idea.
"Shades of blue and white are a fan-favorite combination that people feel they can often rely on," Sarah Latham, the principal of Latham Interiors, says. "The classic pairing looks clean and fresh, and we often pair it with natural wood tones to add depth, color, and texture to any space. Our favorite blue is Newburyport Blue HC-155 by Benjamin Moore, and the best part is it can easily be translated into most décor styles from bohemian to rustic and traditional to farmhouse."
06 of 20
Design: Michelle Gage, Photo: Rebecca McAlpin, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For a more unexpected take on interiors, try a variation of pink and green.
"My favorite color scheme is pink and teal," Michelle Gage, the principal and founder of Michelle Gage Interior Design says.
"There's something so perfect about how the pairing pops against one another. I love the soft and bright balance the combination brings to a room."
07 of 20
Design: Julia Alexander, Photo: Anna Yanovski, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For a cooler toned room, blues and greens give off a calm and easygoing vibe.
"A color scheme of graduated blues and greens with neutral tones, natural woods, and black accents is my favorite combination," designer Julia Alexander of Julia Alexander Interiors says. "To recreate the look, take one color and repeat it in shades lighter and darker throughout your space. The pale blueish-green walls in this bedroom, paired with a rich green velvet headboard, feel classic, timeless, and serene."
08 of 20
Design: Katherine Carter, Photo: Amy Bartlam, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Who says neutrals have to be boring? With pops of nearly cobalt blue, this space is anything but average.
"I love how elegant and chic black, blue and beige look and feel in this Venice beach home—the colors work so well together and add depth to this space," designer Katherine Carter explains.
"With such versatile shades, this color scheme really works in any room in the house. However, for this project, we chose to keep it in living room, finding room, family room, and kitchen. For a modern contemporary look, make navy and black the primary colors and sprinkle in beige tones."
09 of 20
Design: Kelly Hurliman Interior Design, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
As they're both cool colors, green and blue always play well together.
"My all-time favorite color scheme is blue and green—it always works and, depending on the shades, can be super versatile," Kelly Hurliman of Kelly Hurliman Interior Design says. "Brighter tones can feel preppy and fresh, while dark shades give off a sophisticated, moody vibe. We went with Benjamin Moore's Polo Blue on the walls and added grass green art and decor into the mix in this room."
10 of 20
Design: Mindy Gayer Design Co., Photo: Vanessa Lentine, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For a more neutral, earthy take, try gray-green and add black and white.
"My favorite color scheme at the moment is grayish-green hues combined with black and white neutrals," designer Mindy Gayer, of Mindy Gayer Design Co. "I gravitate towards green colors to bring the outside in, and sage tones are also very soothing. I love how this combination boasts plenty of contrast while still maintaining a timeless quality."
11 of 20
Design: Jonathan Rachman, Photo: Suzanna Scott, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For an high-impact space, black and red make a bold statement.
"Any touch of color against black—preferably high-glossed black—makes for a winning combination," Jonathan Rachman of Jonathan Rachman Design says. "I love pairing it with red, because it's bold yet soft, and definitely a statement! There are so many shades of black, but for me it's blackest of the black possible that I love the most, such as Benjamin Moore Black."
12 of 20
Design: Diana Rose Design, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Looking for more of a modern coastal vibe? Blue, tan, and gray are for you.
"One of my favorite color combinations is blue, sand, and gray, as it evokes a sense of peace and comfort and boasts a clean, modern feel," Diana Rose, the principal and creative director of Diana Rose Design says. "Although it is adaptable for many environments, I especially love it for homes situated with water views. Other nature-inspired accents such as tan driftwood, green plants, white marble work with the nature-inspired color palette to evoke a feeling of water and the beach."
13 of 20
Design: Michelle Berwick, Photo: Larry Arnal, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Pairing a strong shade, like black, with a lighter pastel, like blush pink, provides a great contrast.
"Ever since I was a little girl, my favorite color has always been blush pink—there's just something about it that makes me happy and calm," Michelle Berwick, the founder and principal designer of Michelle Berwick Design, says. "These days, I've found a way to use it in a way that feels fresh, modern, and not at all childlike.
Berwick suggests selecting a pink with "brown or putty undertones" like Queen Anne from Benjamin Moore.
"I love pairing this faint hue with black and mixing it with a host of other naturals, like white, tan, and putty shades," Berwick explains. "It complements many styles of interiors, including the trendy minimalist spaces we see today."
14 of 20
Design: Kate Davidson, Photo: Lauren Miller, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For those drawn to mustard shades, try pairing it with a charcoal gray.
"My favorite color scheme at the moment is yellow and gray because it's both timeless and evokes modern sensibility," Kate Davidson of Kate + Co Design says. "Yellow brings a light-hearted feel and lifts the vibe of the muted gray tones but actually blends effortlessly into a home that does not have much color. The pair works in most spaces because it's gender-neutral and surprisingly brings quite a calming feel to any space."
15 of 20
Design: West of Main, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
The two most popular neutrals of the moment, gray and brown, play well together too.
"When we work with cooler tones, such as grays, we bring in balance through warmer tones and textures," designer Sascha LaFleur of West of Main says. "For instance, we love using this deep charcoal grasscloth wallcovering that boasts hints of bronze when the light hits it just right, and pairing it with organic brown textures. Through decorative elements, we can bring in that beautiful warmth to even the coolest-toned rooms."
16 of 20
Design: West of Main, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
For a high-drama space without using a ton of color, pick neutral shades and include luxe fabrics.
"We love incorporating color through texture. Injecting color through texture creates drama, even if you still want to keep a neutral palette," La Fleur explains. "We paired this almond-colored linen headboard and dark wood nightstand with a textural moss-green grasscloth wallpaper and I believe these rich, moodier tones are certainly here to stay. Pair them with crisp, creamy whites to keep a fresh and inviting feel while developing some contrast with those deeper hues.
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17 of 20
Design: Courtney Sempliner, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
An ever popular choice, white paired with some bright colors always delights.
"To me, the most classic color scheme of all is a clean white palette with pops of colored accents throughout with the help of artwork and accessories, designer Courtney Sempliner says. "My go-to white paint for a blank canvas is Benjamin Moore's White Dove, which has just enough warmth to keep a space from being too stark, but still feels fresh and works with any other tones you bring into a room."
Interior Designers Have Spoken and These Are the Best White Paints
18 of 20
Design: Courtney Sempliner, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Blue works in almost any space, especially when paired with easy neutrals.
"I love using a neutral blue color scheme in almost any space," Sempliner says. "A soft blue, combined with any whites, taupes, and grays, works well to provide a calming and warm environment while still feeling dynamic and fresh.
For paint colors, two of my favorite blue tones are Borrowed Light by Farrow and Ball and Van Deusen Blue by Benjamin Moore."
19 of 20
Design: Mary Patton, Photo: Molly Culver, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
Greens are having a moment. To get in on the trend, try an emerald shade with a neutral.
"A medium green like this bold emerald shade paired with warm neutrals, like tan, is my current favorite color scheme," Mary Patton, the owner of Mary Patton Design says. "Calke Green by Farrow & Ball is the perfect shade to try a floor-to-ceiling paint job."
20 of 20
Design: Marlaina Teich, Photo: Patrick Cline, Graphics: Sabrina Jiang for MyDomaine
A true classic, black and white will never go out of style.
"Classic black and white is a chic way of dressing up a more casual interior style, like the trendy modern farmhouse," Marlaina Teich of Marlaina Teich Designs says. "The key with making this simple color palette work is layering in texture, which you can do by varying up the paint finishes.
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The 12 Interior Paint Colors Designers Can't Get Enough Of
House color schemes: creating whole house color schemes
(Image credit: Valspar)
We realize establishing whole house color schemes may sound daunting – it can be hard enough to choose a color scheme for one room alone, so picking one for a whole house does take a lot of thought, and commitment.
Why would you want a whole house color scheme? There are so many reasons – not least of which is that it's something the world's greatest interior designers routinely do to create a fabulously cohesive feel. And, once you have chosen your key shades, the color scheming will flow like a dream.
All you need to do is start with three favorite colors – and a little understanding of how shades work together. Here, we show you how.
See: The Color Wheel – H&G's complete guide on how to mix colors
1. Whole house color schemes create continuity and flow
(Image credit: Albion Nord)
One of the most important elements of a whole house color scheme is that it flows and is easy on the eye.
‘Diversity and continuity play equally important roles in a home, but it is a fine line. While it is important that each room has a personality of its own, it is also important that spaces do not jar. Unexpected arrivals can create a sense of chaos and unease,’ says Ottalie Stride, Creative Director at Albion Nord .
‘On the same tangent, room after room of the same color can also be incredibly dull. The key is to create rooms which function to serve different uses. This is a great way to develop schemes; a cinema or bar can be more playful than a kitchen or bedroom but colors can be subtly carried from one to the next so there aren’t any shocking surprises.’
2. You can invert shades from room to room
(Image credit: Valspar)
‘You can enjoy the colors you love all the time by inverting your preferred shades between rooms; this will add a new dimension to your home whilst remaining in keeping with your chosen palette,’ explains Will Thompson of Valspar .
‘For example, a living room space wrapped in neutral shades can be complemented with bold, deeper tones. This can be echoed in the other rooms of the home by simply switching up the dominant color in each space to expand the scheme elsewhere.’
So a pale green shade used on the walls in a living room with blush pink accents could be inverted in a bedroom to show blush walls with green accents.
- See: Living room color schemes – the best colors for living spaces
3. Neutrals will create a calm whole house color scheme
(Image credit: Ikea)
Not a fan of color? No problem. Pull together a calming palette of three neutrals that includes greige – grey/beige. The reason we recommend three colors is that it’s easy to become overwhelmed by too many choices.
Easy on the eye and perfect if you want to lighten up a kitchen that doesn’t get a ton of natural light, these neutral shades create a classic and stylish look.
If you want to add a bit of depth, go for a mid-toned grey – it’s such a versatile shade that can be pulled through into other spaces – even if only a grey sofa in the living room.
4. Whole house color schemes can be adjusted to light levels in each room
(Image credit: Little Greene)
There is a belief that you can only use complementary colors or harmonious shades together for a whole color house scheme, but as long as they work tonally, unusual color pairings will work – and, importantly can be adjusted by room to suit the natural light that space receives, and the time of day you use the room.
For example, north-facing rooms that you want to feel cozy and welcoming will do best with warm colors; south-facing rooms will take cooler colors.
What do we mean by choosing colors that match 'tonally'? Colors have an intensity – pale shades have less, and bright shades have more. Shades that match tonally have the same strength, regardless of their color (as you can see in this bathroom by Little Greene ), and in their own way, are harmonious.
5. Whole house color schemes are comforting
(Image credit: Ward & Co)
‘When an entire home is considered as "one" rather than a cluster of individual rooms, there is instantly greater fluidity between different zones,’ says Sarah Ward, Co-Founder of Ward & Co .
'When each room complements each other in this way it can be hugely comforting and naturally creates a much calmer environment to live in, particularly when space is limited.’
6. Start a whole house color scheme from your most used room
(Image credit: Kitchen)
Choose the room that you frequent the most as a starting point for your whole house color scheme. More often than not, this is the kitchen or living space.
Melissa Klink, Creative Director at Harvey Jones says, ‘The kitchen is the perfect environment for experimenting with color on both a large or small scale. Contrasting top and bottom cabinets or using color in a localized area like an island or free-standing cabinet are great ways to add a touch of personality to your whole house color scheme.
Introducing tonal colors from the same spectrum is also an interesting way to bring color into the kitchen – this effect can be achieved, for example, by using different shades of the same color across the cabinetry and the island.’
7. Whole house color schemes are perfect for blending open-plan layouts
(Image credit: Sara Cosgrove/Donal Murphy)
One idea with whole house color scheming is to keep the downstairs as one color palette, then switch it up upstairs. For example, a beautiful taupe shade with accents of sky blue across the living and dining areas, then the landing and bedrooms could have sky blue as the predominant shade and taupe as the secondary color.
Essentially you’re swapping the accent shades. Follow the example of this space and use metallics and dark wood as the constant between the two floors too – consistency is the main element to making the whole house color scheme work.
8. A family of colors will create a coordinated scheme
(Image credit: Little Greene)
To create a truly cohesive feel, consider, use a family of colors in combination, as Ruth Mottershead, Creative Director at Little Greene explains:
‘Using shades from the same color family will work beautifully as a canvas for a coordinated palette of home furnishings whilst still adding design interest in a subtle way.
A good palette to utilize is the Little Greene "Color Scales " collection.
'Our most popular colors sit within families of four graduated tones, made using the same pigments, but in different strengths. Masquerade, for example, appears alongside Masquerade Light and Masquerade Mid; these Color Scales of the earth-pink offer graduated tones.
'These groups of colors are a timeless choice if you are looking for soft, neutral tones to provide natural movement throughout the home. They are easy to use in combination on walls, ceiling and trim as well as providing a seamless color journey from room to room. In addition, the use of the related two strong colors at the bottom of the Color Scales color card allows for highlight and texture to be created without fear of discord.’
9. Whole house color schemes can be adjusted to suit the mood a room you wish to create
(Image credit: Sofa.com)
Set the tone for your whole house color scheme by painting every single wall in your favorite color.
Use shots of subtle color and bolder accents elsewhere to enhance the mood and impact as you wander around.
A whole house color scheme need not be dull or boring. Here, a dramatic inky blue is a bold choice and one that you shouldn't hesitate to recreate if you dare.
10. Use whole house color schemes to integrate forgotten spaces
(Image credit: Edward Bulmer Natural Paints)
See: The 60-30-10 rule – and how to use it to balance a color palette
We often neglect the most used areas – the entryway, the hallways and landings – but this is where whole house color scheming comes to the fore. Linking spaces together is integral to this look and you can see how beautifully it works here – the hallway paint color is used in the living space and beyond, too.
Sophie has been an interior stylist and journalist for over 20 years and has worked for many of the main interior magazines during that time, both in-house and as a freelancer.
On the side, as well as being the News Editor for indie magazine, 91, she trained to be a florist in 2019 and launched The Prettiest Posy where she curates beautiful flowers for modern weddings and events. For H&G, she writes features about interior design – and is known for having an eye for a beautiful room.
Vehicle painting technique
After overcoming a long and thorny path of preparing our body, we have finally come to the final and most important stage of body repair — painting. Last time we made the final preparations: masked, degreased and blown our body, diluted and filtered the paint, adjusted the spray gun. To finish the job, we just have to apply the finishing coat correctly. So, with a proudly worn respirator and a spray gun at the ready, we set off to meet fate ... Forward!
Contents
- How to hold the gun correctly?
- Distance to the surface to be painted
- Trajectory of movement of the spray gun
- Degree of overlapping of the torch (overlap)
- Speed of the spray gun
- Painting a panel part
- Start of movement and turning on the spray gun Technique.
Painting fenders, doors - Painting outside corners and ends
- Painting inside corners
- Painting of long (wide) surfaces
- Painting of horizontal surfaces (hoods, roofs)
- Painting of thin details (eyelashes, moldings)
- Painting of openwork details (grilles, nets)
- Painting of round and cylindrical details 90 07 Principle 08 continuous painting
- "Splash" technique
- Full car painting. Painting Route
- Painting Technique Summary
Painting a car is not an easy process. Highly skilled painters with genuine competence and skills to produce first-class results are worth their weight in gold.
Success in this difficult task depends only on your experience, and in order to earn this experience, you will need long practice, patience, and perseverance in achieving the goal. However, you cannot paint a car with diligence alone - you need to know the basics that will allow you to master the art of applying paints and varnishes, making fewer mistakes.
Today we will talk about the basic rules that must be followed when painting a car or its elements. Let's start with the question that is likely to arise first as soon as you pick up an airbrush.
How to hold the spray gun correctly?
To obtain a good result when painting, the gun must always be positioned in the right way - at right angles to the surface to be painted (the longitudinal axis of the nozzle must be oriented perpendicular to the surface).
This is especially important when painting large surfaces. If this rule is ignored and the spray gun is tilted without observing a right angle, the painting will go unevenly: in one part of the torch, the distance to the surface will be less (the paint lays thicker), and in the other - more (the paint lays thinner).
On metallics, especially light ones, this inevitably leads to the appearance of stripes and clouds, on one-color enamels and varnishes - to uneven ripples, layer distortions and other defects.
The illustration below shows correct and incorrect (crossed out) gun positions.
Correct and incorrect holding of the spray gunDistance to the surface to be painted
Distance from the spray gun to the object to be painted should be:
- for high pressure spray guns (conventional) - at least 20-25 cm;
- for HVLP - 10-15 cm;
- LVLP/RP - 15-20 cm. become only when the spray gun is sufficiently removed from the surface.
In addition, high spray pressure causes a high speed of movement of paint particles in the torch, which means that with a small distance to the surface, paint loss during spraying will be very large.
Modern spray guns are characterized by a lower spray pressure, a different shape of the jet (tulip-shaped) and, accordingly, a smaller distance to the surface.
Visually estimate the distance to the surface to be painted with your own palm - its width with clenched fingers is approximately 12 cm, and with spread fingers - 20 cm.
With experience, you will feel and automatically select the correct distance. Failure to observe the distance when painting threatens with the following troubles.
- If you hold the gun too close, the concentration of paint per unit area to be painted will be higher, and the layer will be correspondingly thicker. In this case, smudges, distortions of layers and the effect of "orange peel" are possible.
- Holding the gun too far will increase fogging and reduce paint transfer to the surface. This leads to a waste of material, and the coating turns out to be excessively “dry” and rough.
The trajectory of the spray gun
Painting is carried out in horizontal movements: the first pass is from left to right, the next one is from right to left, and so on. The gun should be moved as parallel as possible to the surface to be painted (at a constant distance), the hand should not describe any additional circular movements.
If the gun walks in an arc, the paint will lay down unevenly - where the gun was closer the layer will be thicker, and vice versa. Also pay attention to the shape of the part and remember to always keep the same distance.
And always remember the right angle!
Overlap degree
The standard is to overlap one pass with another by two thirds. Practice shows that this degree of overlap is the most optimal and allows you to avoid such a defect as stripes of different colors (especially on metallics) caused by insufficient flame overlap.
Optimum spray coverage is 2/3Gun speed
The recommended gun speed along the surface to be painted is approximately 40-50 cm/sec. That is, on a medium-sized part, one pass from edge to edge takes about 2 seconds (you can remember the musical “one and two” 🙂). This value is quite tolerant of some deviations and may vary according to:
- spray jet size;
- the degree of its overlap;
- distance to the surface to be painted;
- gun settings and performance (paint supply, nozzle size, pressure).
For example, you can move the gun faster with more paint, or slower with less paint, and get uniform coverage across all parameters. Or, without changing the paint supply, you can move the spray gun faster with a large overlap of the torch or slower with a smaller one - the painting results will be similar. So, as you can see, there are no ready-made recommendations for all occasions, each painter can have his own style of applying coatings.
When moving the gun, it is important to maintain a constant speed: the movement should not slow down at the edges of the part and should not accelerate in the center. Work coolly and prudently.
Painting a panel part
With the basic points sorted out, now you can consider the features of painting a particular part. Let it be a panel element of a rectangular shape, without sharp changes in the surface topography. For example, a removed hood.
If possible, place the part vertically, slightly tilted away from you.
The height of the part should be such that it does not work most of the time while standing on tiptoe, but also does not bend into three deaths. Before painting, take a comfortable position in which you can, almost without leaving your seat, reach all areas of the element to be painted. Check that there is enough arm span as it moves from extreme left to extreme right to cover the width of the part in one pass. All fittings are best done with a spray gun in hand.
As we remember, painting is carried out by applying horizontally oriented stripes to the surface from a distance of 15-20 cm, which are formed when the spray gun moves from left to right and back.
Starting and Engaging the Gun
Start the gun slightly away from the upper left edge of the workpiece with the trigger partially pulled to provide clean compressed air. A little before reaching the beginning of the part, press the lever all the way, opening the paint supply. Never do this when you have already reached the edge of the panel - this will surely lead to the formation of a "dry edge".
Keep the lever fully depressed throughout the entire pass over the part until it passes over its opposite edge. As soon as you have crossed the opposite edge, release the lever partially, interrupting the paint supply (air supply continues). Move the spray gun down a distance that provides the desired degree of overlap of the strips and move in the order indicated in the opposite direction.
Correction of the distance from the spray gun to the surface, the speed of its movement and the degree of overlap of the strips must be made during the application process, instantly responding to the slightest deviation of the painting process from the normal mode, which ensures a perfectly uniform layer.
Determining when to pull the trigger is one of the most important factors in painting mastery. Do not worry, with a little practice, you will control this process at the level of reflexes and intuition without hesitation.
Each pass should start and end slightly away from the part.
The beginning and end of the passage directly opposite the surface to be painted is unacceptable. Monitoring the condition of the resulting coating is carried out exclusively visually - by the light glare that occurs on the painted surface when it reflects the light of lighting devices. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure good all-round illumination of the object to be painted.
And one more thing. To ensure good coverage along the top edge of the panel, the first pass should be made so that only the bottom half of the spray jet hits the panel, and its top half is above the edge of the panel.
Finishing touch technique. Painting fenders, doors
More difficult is the painting of parts with pronounced outer and inner corners (eg wings). The so-called “finishing touch” technique will help us to successfully cope with this task. It is also used when it is necessary to paint a part on both sides.
Its essence lies in the fact that at first the internal parts of the part, the ends and external corners are painted over, and only then the front part.
This technique allows you to get a high-quality coating, avoiding overspray on the front of the part, and slightly reduce paint consumption. Take, for example, the front fender.
- First, we go along the ends: paint over the upper platform (places of bolted connections).
- Then go to the front end (a place for a turn signal).
- We go down, painting the wheel arch and all the lower ends.
- We pass to the end, which looks at the front door. Everything with ends.
- Now paint the entire front surface of the wing. Voila, the wing is painted!
Same with the door. So that the dust does not spoil the front part, we paint the inside and the ends first, and the front part last.
Painting outer corners and ends
Another feature of such an element as a wing is the presence of a sharp break in its surface at the transition to a horizontal section. There are a couple of rules that must be followed when painting such areas.
This also applies to all other parts that have similar sharp bends, kinks, stiffeners. First, make sure that part of the front side is painted along with the corners. The torch should cover both here and there - in this way we will create a "transition". After the corners are painted over, we finally paint the front surface.
Secondly, coating in such areas should be done only with the peripheral zone of the flame, and not with its central part, as this leads to the formation of smudges. Therefore, at first, especially with a lack of experience, it is worth mentally planning the route in such a way that it complies with this rule.
Painting inner corners
If you paint an inner right corner in one vertical pass, covering both sides of the corner, as shown in the figure below, this coverage will be uneven (there will be more paint on the walls, and less paint in the corner). In many cases, this work may suit, but for higher quality, the second method is recommended.
For a better finish, each side of the corner is painted separately. With the first vertical pass we paint one side of the corner, after which we paint the main surface with horizontal passes. On the other hand, we do the same, trying not to go to the already painted adjacent zone.
Painting long (wide) surfaces
If the surface to be painted is so long that the arm span is not enough to cover it in one pass on the spot, such surfaces must be painted with segments approx. each. The segments should overlap one another by about 10 centimeters.
Such surfaces can also be painted with vertical strokes, but the painting process is better controlled with horizontal strokes - they are more natural for the painter.
Painting horizontal surfaces (hoods, roofs)
When painting horizontal surfaces (hoods, roofs), the movement should start from the nearest left edge of the part and gradually, pass by pass (also with horizontal movements), move forward from you.
In this case, a slight inclination of the spray gun in the direction of spraying is allowed in order to direct the paint dust to the far edge of the part. Subsequent passes will hide it and we will get an excellent coating without dusting. If the part is too long and you can't reach its far edge, it needs to be painted on both sides. First, according to the above scheme, we reach the middle, after which we immediately go to the other side of the part and continue painting from the middle to ourselves. According to this scheme, roofs, hoods, trunks are painted.
When leaning over the part, do not touch its surface with body parts, clothing, hose, etc. It is better to hold the hose behind your back with your free hand.
Painting thin parts (eyelashes, moldings)
When painting various thin parts, it is important to choose the optimal torch so that the part is completely covered and does not give excessive overspray.
The picture below (center) shows the best torch shape for painting parts like this. Painting openwork parts (grilles, nets)
Various grilles (for example, a radiator grille) are painted on both sides, with vertical passages at a certain angle, as shown in the image below. During the passage, it is necessary to ensure that the spray torch covers both the outer part and the ends of the partitions at the same time.
If you want to paint any wickerwork, mesh (for example, air intake mesh), you need to paint at an even sharper angle. With large volumes of work and low requirements for the quality of painting (for example, if a wire mesh is being painted in the garden 🙂), you can substitute some kind of shield at the back - the paint will fly off from it and cover the back of the mesh. Although this will reduce the quality, it will significantly save paintwork.
is one of the best workouts. Try to paint at least one section of a notch or picket fence with full coverage of all areas and at the same time not make smudges .
.. Painting round and cylindrical parts
Thin cylindrical parts (tubes, etc.) are best sprayed with a round spray, vertical passes in three or four steps. If the torch is more vertically elongated, the speed of the passes must be increased to avoid dripping.
Cylindrical parts of large diameter are essentially painted in the same way as flat parts, with the only difference being that the sections must be shorter.
Cylinders of small diameter are best painted lengthwise, in vertical passes.
Continuous painting principle
In continuous painting, the gun is switched on at the beginning of spraying and kept switched on until the part is completely covered with paint. This principle, in certain cases, greatly increases the productivity of work, allowing the maximum number of details to be painted per unit of time.
For example, wheel covers can be mounted on a special rotating mandrel and each wheel cover can be painted in one continuous pass.
Since the hood rotates, we only have to hold the trigger, and when the main part of the hood is painted (starting from the center), move the gun 5 centimeters down with a small movement to complete the painting of the hood across the entire width.
The picture below shows how solid and flat surfaces can be painted with continuous staining. In both cases, the spray gun remains switched on until the end of the painting operation.
"Splash" technique
Sometimes, when painting very inconvenient and hard-to-reach places, for example, some inaccessible areas of the engine compartment, the "splash" technique can come to the rescue. We remove the air supply on the atomizer, and reduce the torch to the minimum size. At the same time, the paint will spray from the nozzle in a thin stream and it can be “poured” where it cannot be reached in any other way. Of course, there can be no question of any quality of painting, but when this technique is resorted to, it is not particularly needed there.
Complete car painting. Painting route
The painting of the entire car or most of it is carried out in separate zones, the length of which is roughly determined by the scope of the master's hand. In this case, there is a need for a smooth connection of the painted areas, which is achieved by their partial overlap. In general, the same rules apply here as when painting long/wide surfaces. The main thing to remember is that the junction areas of the zones should not coincide with the junctions of different parts.
When performing complex and responsible operations, there is a general rule that is mandatory for both novice car painters and experienced professionals: measure seven times, cut once. 🙂 Obeying this rule, even experienced painters go around the car several times before starting painting, trying on, paying attention to surface features, and marking the most insidious places on the car body.
Before starting a complete repainting of the machine, its route must be preliminarily developed.
You need to clearly know in what sequence you will move forward, otherwise the actions in the painting process will be chaotic, and its result will be unpredictable. You need to start a complete repainting of the car from the roof. If the roof is left for last, paint dust will spoil the freshly painted hood and trunk lid. Dust on the roof is not so noticeable. The pictures below show several routes for the full coloring of the car.
Painting route ending at the open front door (requires interior masking)Let's say you were a diligent student and you managed to apply the first coat of paint using the recommendations given in the article. However, your efforts do not end there, since there should usually be several such layers. Subsequent layers are applied in the same manner. In this case, you must follow the mandatory rule - the previous layer of paint must dry.
How long should the previous layer dry and how many layers of material to apply in general will tell you the technological instructions for a particular paint and varnish material, as well as the relevant articles on the site (for example, this, this and this).
I hope this information will help you get really "brilliant" results when painting!
Painting technique summary
- The gun should be held at right angles to the surface to be painted.
- The distance to the surface to be painted is 20-25 cm for conventional sprayers, 10-15 cm for low-pressure sprayers (HVLP), and 15-20 cm for LVLP/RP guns. is 40-50 cm / sec. That is, one pass from edge to edge of the middle part takes about 2 seconds.
- Painting is done by applying horizontally oriented stripes to the surface, which are formed when the gun is moved from left to right and back.
- The sprayer must be guided parallel to the surface to be painted. The hand should not describe any additional circular movements.
- The movement must be started and ended slightly away from the surface to be painted.
- Optimum flame coverage is 2/3.
12 types of seams for the steering wheel, gear knob and parking brake
The steering wheel is the central element of the car interior, which is constantly in contact with the driver.
Comfort while driving and the general appearance of the car interior directly depend on the ergonomics and design of the steering wheel, so it is important that the steering wheel has high performance and visual characteristics. To make driving as comfortable as possible, and the interior of the car stylish will help the constriction of the steering wheel.
Often, at the same time as the steering wheel is re-upholstered, at the request of the client, the specialists of the auto studio “AMD plus” re-tighten the gear knob and the parking brake handle. The interior of the car looks especially beautiful and harmonious when all the elements are covered with the same leather and decorated in the same style - this option provides a holistic design and adds individuality to the interior. In this article we will talk about the visual design of car interior elements using decorative seams.A decorative seam for the upholstery is an integral design element that connects the parts to be joined, decorates the elements being pulled over, emphasizes the individuality and unique style of the car interior.
Upholstery of interior elements allows you to choose an option for decoration that perfectly complements the interior of the car and visually appeals to you.
You can choose a classic seam color or a bright contrast, repeat the standard decorative seam provided by the manufacturer, or choose the original, less common option. At your choice in the auto studio "AMD plus" there are more than ten options for decorative seams for the steering wheel and other interior elements, and more than twenty types of threads of different colors and thicknesses. The choice is yours!12 types of seams to choose from
Most studios offer only 3-4 standard types of decorative seams, from which it is sometimes difficult to choose the right option. The AMD plus auto studio team is sure that each car is unique, therefore, especially for you, we present an extended line of decorative seams, consisting of 12 positions. Choose your favorite option and emphasize your individuality!
Macrame
BMW M
Sport
Herringbone
Pigtail
BMW Alpina
Infiniti
AMG
Italy
Butterfly
Cross
StepMacramé stitch
Macrame is an aesthetic decorative stitch for the waisting of the car wheel rim.
"Macrame" is performed with thin threads, does not lift the skin and as a result forms an interesting ornate pattern. This is the most popular option among car owners. Seam "BMW M"
The “BMW M” stitch is similar in technique to the popular standard “macramé” stitch, but differs in the same color scheme of three shades: red, blue and light blue. This option is traditionally used in all BMW M-series, but if desired, it can be used as a decor for cars of any brand.
Sport Stitch
The sport stitch is similar in technique to the macramé stitch, but has a more frequent pattern. The main difference is that when making a “sport” seam, every loop of the stitch is captured, and when making a “macramé” seam, every second. "Sport" is most often used for decorating drag-and-drop interior elements in sports cars.
Herringbone Stitch
Herringbone is a popular decorative stitch most commonly used by Korean and Japanese automakers.
Herringbone lifts the skin, causing it to become convex and form a characteristic pattern. In order for the pattern to be evenly convex and securely fixed, thick threads are used when making a seam. Pigtail stitch
Pigtail stitch is very similar to the previous herringbone pattern and is also commonly found in Korean and Japanese cars. The difference is in the location of the stitches relative to each other - in the “pigtail” seam they are asymmetrical to each other and, when screeded, form a characteristic convex pattern. The threads for the seam are thick and dense.
Seam "BMW Alpina"
Seam "BMW Alpina" is a classic variant used in the design of elements in BMW Alpina vehicles. The seam is minimalist and features a consistent blue and green color scheme. "BMW Alpina" will decorate the interior of the car and add a unique unique style to it.
Infiniti Seam
Infiniti Seam is the most commonly used decorative stitch on Infiniti vehicles.
It is characterized by a minimalist design and in the original version is most often found in white or black, but at your request it can be made in any color from the presented ones. "AMG" stitch
The "AMG" stitch is a stylish and unusual decorative stitch that is used on the leather parts of high performance Mercedes-AMG sports cars. It looks beautiful when performed both in a contrasting and in a single-color version and is suitable for decorating elements of a car of any brand.
Seam "Italy"
"Italy" - a seam that is most often found in cars of the Italian car industry - Fiat, Alfa Romeo. It is a seam in a strict minimalist style and visually resembles sewing “over the edge”. It looks equally stylish both in contrast and in the color corresponding to the selected skin tone.
Butterfly seam
Butterfly is a seam that, like Italy, is mostly found in Italian cars. It consists of separate geometric elements that look like the number 8 or a butterfly, for which it received the name of the same name.
