Gardening garlic growing

How to Grow Garlic | Gardener's Supply

Find more garden information

Pick a Variety (or two...)

If you're replanting garlic from your own stock, choose the biggest and best heads from the summer's harvest. Simply put, the larger the planted clove, the larger the harvested head. If purchasing, look for garlic sold specifically for planting. Garlic from the produce section at the supermarket may have been treated with a sprout inhibitor to prevent it from growing.

There are several types of garlic.

Hardneck garlic varieties produce a stiff stem that grows up through the center of the bulb. Compared to softneck varieties, then tend to have a sharper flavor, with more variation in flavor among the varieties. They're hardier, too, making them a good choice for regions with very cold winters. Once harvested, the bulbs have a somewhat shorter shelf life than softneck varieties.
Popular hardneck varieties: "Music", "German Red", "Chesnok Red"

Softneck garlic varieties don't produce a stiff central stem. This list the type of garlic you'll find at most supermarkets. It has a relatively mild flavor. Softneck garlic is the best choice for regions with mild winters, and it's the type to grow if you want to make garlic braids.
Popular softneck varieties: "Inchelium Red", "California Whiite Early"

Elephant garlic resembles a giant head of garlic and, indeed, it does belong to the same genus, Allium. However, it isn't a "true" garlic but rather is more closely related to the leek.

Planting Garlic

Plan to plant garlic in fall about four to six weeks before the ground freezes.
Prepare the soil by loosening it to a depth of at least 8" and mix in some slow-release, granular organic fertilizer.
Just prior to planting, break up the garlic heads into individual cloves, leaving as much of the papery covering on each clove intact as possible.
Plant cloves 3" to 4" deep, orienting them so the pointy ends face up.
Water gently to settle the soil, and then cover the bed with a 4" to 6" layer of straw. Even as air temperatures drop, the soil will stay warm enough for the newly planted cloves to establish roots before the ground freezes. Sometimes you'll see some green shoots form in fall; that's fine and won't harm plants. They'll begin growing in earnest in spring.

Here in Vermont it's easy to tell when the garlic should be planted. Look up at the hillsides. If they're a blaze of red, orange and yellow, it's time.

If you planted hardneck varieties, they'll probably form curly scapes. It's best to cut these off so the plants will direct their energy to producing large underground bulbs. The tender stalks can be used in stir-fries or sauteed with vegetables.

Last updated: 10/18/2022

Share this Article:

If you want big bulbs, use “seed” garlic from a local nursery, farmer’s market, or online seed supplier. Or, keep some of your best heads of garlic from your harvest to replant! But before you plant garlic, make sure you know the difference between the two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck garlic – and which type will grow best in your climate. See Recommended Varieties below.

If your garden soil is poorly draining or high in clay, garlic grower Robin Jarry of Hope, Maine, suggests growing in heavily mulched raised beds instead. “I plant in raised beds for good drainage, and then mulch with about 6 inches of old hay after the ground freezes. I never water my garlic—I like low-maintenance vegetables!” Raised beds should be 2 to 3 feet wide and at least 10 to 12 inches deep.

Garlic does best if it can experience a “dormancy” period of colder weather—at least 40˚F (4°C)—that lasts 4 to 8 weeks. By planting garlic bulbs in the fall, they have time to develop healthy roots before temperatures drop and/or the ground freezes, but not enough time for the garlic to form top growth. Then, by early spring, the bulbs “wake up” from their dormancy and start rapidly producing foliage, followed by bulbs, before the harshest heat of summer stops their growth.

In mild climates, you can plant garlic cloves as late as February or March, but the resulting bulbs won’t be as large. However, you can still enjoy the garlic scapes during the summer. (Scapes are the plant’s tender green shoots and have a mild garlic flavor. Enjoy on eggs, in salads, as a pizza topping, or in stir-fries!) If you plant in the spring, wait to do so until after the soil can be worked and it crumbles apart easily.

Photo by YuriyS/Getty Images
How to Plant Garlic

Immediately before planting, work a couple tablespoons of 5-10-10 complete fertilizer, bonemeal, or fish meal into the soil several inches below where the base of the garlic cloves will rest.
Select large, healthy cloves, free of disease. The larger the clove, the bigger and healthier the bulb you will get the following summer.

Break apart cloves from the bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.

Plant cloves 4 to 8 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (with the wider root side facing down and pointed end facing up).

Plant in rows spaced 6 to 12 inches apart. A single 10-foot row should yield about 5 pounds of the fragrant bulbs, depending on the variety.

In this short video, Ben shares his tried and tested techniques for planting a truly spectacular crop of garlic.

cultivation, planting, care in the open field

There are 2 varieties of garlic: winter and spring (1). You can tell them apart by the bulbs.

Winter garlic. It has an even number of cloves in the head - from 4 to 10. They are large and arranged in a circle. And in the center there is always a stem - the rest of the stem. The problem with winter garlic is that it does not store well.

Spring garlic. Its teeth are arranged in a spiral, and they are of different sizes - larger on the outside, smaller closer to the center. And there are many more - up to 30 pieces. And there is no stem in the center. This variety of garlic is perfectly stored - it can easily lie for a whole year until the next harvest.

Winter garlic is planted before winter, spring - in spring, respectively, their care has differences.

Cultivation of garlic

Garlic is a rather unpretentious crop; in many gardeners it grows almost without care and gives good yields. But still, he has one requirement - the soil must be pedigree. Therefore, before planting on the site, fertilizers must be applied (calculation per 1 sq. M):

humus - 1/2 bucket;

rotted sawdust of deciduous trees - 1/2 bucket;

ash - 5 glasses;

fluffy lime - 5 cups.

Fertilizers should be mixed, spread evenly over the area and dug up by 10 cm. And he does not like urea and potassium chloride.

Place for garlic should be sunny - this is a light-loving crop.

Planting garlic

The timing of planting garlic depends on its variety.

Winter garlic. It is traditionally planted 2 to 3 weeks before the onset of hard frosts, in late September - early October (2), when the soil temperature drops below 15°C.

Planting pattern is as follows:

row spacing - 25 cm;

in a row - 10 - 15 cm;

planting depth - 8 - 10 cm.

Spring garlic. It is planted in the spring, no later than the end of April (3). He is not afraid of frosts, therefore, the earlier you plant, the more likely it is that the crop will have time to ripen - this is especially true in regions with a short summer. The optimum soil temperature is 5-6 °C.

Planting pattern:

row spacing - 25 - 30 cm;

in a row - 8 - 10 cm;

planting depth - 2 cm.

The cloves are planted at a depth of 3 - 4 cm, and when they begin to take root, they themselves go deep into the soil by 6 - 8 cm (4).

Outdoor garlic care

Watering. It should be regular, but up to a certain point:

in April-May - once a week: 10 liters per 1 sq. m

in June-July - 1 time in 2 weeks: 10 liters per 1 sq. m;

from August it is not possible to water.

In rainy summers, garlic does not need watering.

Top dressing. As a rule, in fertile areas of this crop, it is enough that they were applied to the soil before planting. On poor soils, it is useful to additionally feed it with phosphorus and potassium - fertilizers must be applied between the rows 2 weeks after planting the cloves:

double superphosphate - 30 g (2 tablespoons) per 1 sq. m;

potassium sulfate - 20 g (1 tablespoon) per 1 sq. m.

- Winter garlic is important to cover in the winter - mulch with humus, compost or peat with a layer of about 5 cm, - advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - This should be done in late autumn, at the end of November. The mulch will help keep the bulbs from freezing if the winter turns out to be snowless and the frosts are severe. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the mulch must be removed so that the cloves in the soil do not get wet.

“Caring for spring garlic also has its tricks,” continues Svetlana Mikhailova. - It happens that in the cold summer, the ripening of the bulbs slows down, and they may not have time to ripen before the autumn frosts. In this case, in mid-August, you can collect the leaves in a bunch and tie them in a knot - then they will stop growing, the plants will direct all their forces to the ripening of the bulb.

Garlic harvesting

Garlic harvesting time also depends on the variety.

Winter garlic. It is usually harvested at the end of July. There are three signs that it is already ripe:

the covering skin begins to crack on the inflorescences, and the bulbs are exposed, but this only applies to shooter varieties - yes, garlic arrows usually break out (5), but you can always leave a couple of plants with inflorescences to use as beacons;

lower leaves turn yellow;

The outer, covering scales of the bulb become dry - this can be seen if you dig up one plant.

Spring garlic. It is removed later - around the end of August. Most varieties of this group do not form arrows, so yellowing of the leaves and lodging of the tops can serve as a visual signal for harvesting.
Photo: pixabay.com
– It is better to dig up garlic with a pitchfork – this way there is less chance of damaging the bulb, recommends agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova. - You need to dig in dry weather. After harvesting, the garlic, together with the tops, is removed to dry - for about a week it should lie under a canopy.

After drying, cut off the roots and stems of the bulbs, leaving a stump of about 10 cm (if the garlic is to be stored in braids, the stems are not cut).

Garlic storage rules

There are many ways to store garlic, but practice shows that almost all of them are unreliable. The best way is to braid the plants in the same way as you do with onions.

But there are nuances here:

garlic stalks are hard and brittle, it is difficult to braid them, so you need to weave straw or twine there;

Braids should be stored at a temperature of 1 - 2 °C - onions are stored at room temperature, and garlic dries quickly in heat.

Large heads are stored longer, so the small ones should be eaten first.

Popular questions and answers

agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova answered our questions about growing garlic.

Should garlic cloves be peeled before planting?

No way! Covering scales - reliable protection of teeth from mechanical damage, diseases and pests. Peeled cloves will rot rather than germinate.

Should winter garlic be watered after planting?

No. It will be enough for him to take root in the autumn rains. Over watering can cause tooth decay.

Can winter garlic be planted in spring?

It makes no sense. For winter varieties, it is important that there are low temperatures after planting. And the spring is too warm. If planted in April, the bulbs will grow inferior and will not be stored. And besides, underdeveloped teeth cannot be used for planting - they form roots very slowly and freeze out in winter.

Is it possible to plant spring garlic before winter?

It is possible, but spring varieties, when planted in autumn, take root worse and often freeze, therefore, they will give a crop much less than winter varieties.

Why does winter garlic turn yellow in spring?

There may be 4 reasons:

- cold spring - in such a situation, the leaves begin to grow, and the roots cannot yet extract nutrients from the soil;
- lack or excess of moisture in the soil;
- acidic soil;
- Fusarium disease.

Sources

Fisenko A.N., Serpukhovitina K.A., Stolyarov A.I. Garden. Handbook // Rostov-on-Don, Rostov University Press, 1994 - 416 p.

Pantielev Ya.Kh. ABC vegetable grower // M .: Kolos, 1992 - 383 p.

Group of authors ed. Polyanskoy A.M. and Chulkova E.I. Tips for gardeners // Minsk, Harvest, 1970 - 208 p.

Shuin K.A., Zakraevskaya N.K., Ippolitova N.Ya. Garden from spring to autumn // Minsk, Uradzhay, 1990 - 256 p.

Yakubovskaya L.D., Yakubovsky V.N., Rozhkova L.N. ABC of a summer resident // Minsk, OOO "Orakul", OOO Lazurak, IPKA "Publicity", 1994 - 415 p.

planting and care, growing from seeds in the open field, cleaning, storage, photo

Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Reissued: February 26, 2022 Last edited: August 05, 2022
9Olo

Care of garlic

Growing conditions

Watering

Fertilizing

Pests and diseases

Processing garlic

Harvesting and storage

Species and varieties

Literature

Comments

Plant garlic (lat. Allium sativum) – herbaceous perennial Lukarylis subsem. This is a popular vegetable crop that has a characteristic smell and pungent taste due to the presence of thioethers in the plant. The birthplace of garlic is Central Asia, on the territory of which the cultivation of garlic took place in Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Northern Iran. Scientists believe that the garlic vegetable originated from a long-pointed onion that grows in the gorges of the mountains of Turkmenistan, in the Pamir-Alai and Tien Shan.

Garlic has long been valued by people for its ability to stimulate appetite, improve digestion, and strengthen the immune system. It was used both as an antidote for poisoning, and as a prophylactic against dangerous diseases. A clay bulb of garlic was found in the tomb of Tutankhamen, the garlic vegetable is mentioned, and in the inscriptions on the ancient Egyptian pyramids, Pythagoras called garlic the king of spices. But despite the fact that garlic has been known to the world for 3,000 years, it is still popular: in countries such as China, India, Korea and Italy, the per capita consumption of garlic reaches from 8 to 12 cloves per day.

How to grow garlic outdoors, how to plant garlic, how to water garlic, how to fertilize garlic, when to dig garlic, how to store garlic until spring and much more you will learn from this article.

Planting and caring for garlic

Planting: no later than the first half of April on a site prepared in autumn or before winter, from the second half of September to mid-October.

Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade.

Soil: optimal soil - moderately moist, fertile loam of neutral reaction.

Watering: in drought - plentiful (10-12 liters per m²). In August, watering is stopped.

Top-dressing: after germination - mullein or urea, then garlic is fed at a two-week interval. In total, four dressings per season are enough.

Reproduction: vegetatively - teeth.

Pests: caterpillars of garden, winter, cabbage and gamma cutworms, centipedes, onion moths and flies, mole crickets, stem nematodes, secretive proboscis, tobacco thrips.

Diseases: gray, white and neck rot, downy mildew, jaundice, fusarium, helminthosporiasis, smut, rust, viral mosaic, tracheomycosis.

Read more about growing garlic below. purple or dark purple leathery scales. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate, grooved, keeled on the underside, entire, drooping and erect, up to 1 cm wide, 30 to 100 cm long.

The leaves sprout one from the other, forming a false stem similar to that of an onion, but stronger. The peduncle reaches a height of 60 to 150 cm and ends with an umbrella-shaped inflorescence, hidden by a film membrane until the opening of sterile flowers on long pedicels with pale purple or white petals up to 3 mm long and six stamens.

The fruit is a capsule. There are spring and winter garlic.

Planting garlic outdoors

When to plant

Planting garlic in the ground is carried out early - no later than the first decade of April, but since it is difficult to dig frozen ground at this time, the site for spring garlic is prepared in the fall. Planting garlic in the fall is carried out in the time period from the second half of September to mid-October, so that it has time to form a strong root system before the cold weather, penetrating 10 cm deep, but at the same time it would not have time to start growing.

Soil for garlic

The soil for garlic needs fertile and neutral, but this crop grows best in loam. The soil should not be dry, but avoid planting garlic in lowlands where melt and rainwater can accumulate. The area for garlic needs to be dug deep since autumn, adding 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt and a bucket of humus for each m². In the spring, all you have to do is level the area with a rake.

Then you can plant garlic

The best precursors for garlic are any cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas and green manure, the worst are onions, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes and garlic itself. And for plants such as strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, potatoes, gooseberries and black currants, garlic planted in the neighborhood will protect against insect pests.

Cucumbers: varieties for open ground

Plants such as roses, gladioli and tulips will also benefit from the proximity of garlic, since garlic not only repels slugs, caterpillars and borers, but even moles do not dig their holes near the places where this crop grows.

How to plant in the ground

Have you ever heard the phrase "garlic seeds"? Or "growing garlic from seeds"? It is strange if you have heard, since garlic does not form seeds and reproduces vegetatively - by teeth, and winter varieties can also reproduce by air bulbs-bulbs.

Harvest directly depends on the quality of the planting material, so 2-3 weeks before spring planting, place the teeth in the refrigerator for stratification, then sort them by size, culling out diseased, twisted, damaged, soft, too small or irregularly shaped, and also those that were left without a shell.

After that, the teeth selected for sowing are disinfected for two hours in an ash solution: 400 g of ash is diluted in 2 liters of water, boiled for half an hour and cooled.

The ash solution can be replaced with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulphate, in which the teeth are kept for 12 hours. Then the slices are germinated at room temperature, wrapped in a napkin moistened with water, which is placed in a plastic bag for 2-3 days, although this stage of preparing the seed is not necessary.

As soon as the soil temperature reaches 5-7 ºC, prepare the bed by making grooves 7-9 cm deep in it at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, plant cloves in them vertically with the bottom down at intervals of 6-8 cm. Planting depth

Positioning the cloves edge-to-edge in the furrow to the south allows the green garlic feathers to receive the maximum amount of spring sun, increasing yields and making it easier for you to care for the garlic.

3 ways to grow onions on a feather on a windowsill without problems all year round

If the soil is wet from melted snow, watering will not be necessary after planting, but if the soil is dry, water the area as liberally as possible. Spring garlic sprouts at a temperature of 3-4 ºC, seedlings are not afraid of frost, however, garlic will be grateful to you for mulching the soil with peat.

Planting garlic before winter

We already wrote about when to plant garlic before winter, especially since winter garlic is planted in the same order and according to the same principle as spring planting, but the site for garlic is not prepared six months, and two weeks before planting, and a layer of coarse-grained sand or ash 1. 5-3 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the furrow to prevent contact of the seed with the soil and protect it from rot.

Winter garlic, as a rule, is larger than spring garlic, so the largest cloves are planted at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other, and those that are smaller, at a distance of 8-10 cm. Yes, and the depth of winter planting should be greater - 15- 20 cm.

Bulbs are sown at the same time to a depth of about 3 cm according to the 2x10 scheme - next year they will turn out to be single-pronged bulbs, planting which again, you will get full-fledged garlic bulbs. Mulching the site with dry peat or a mixture of earth with sawdust for the winter is mandatory: mulch protects the garlic from frost, and its layer should not be thinner than 2 cm.

If a very severe frost hits and there is no snow, cover the area with foil or roofing felt, which can be removed when the snow starts to fall. Under the snow cover, winter garlic is able to withstand twenty-degree frosts.

Garlic Care

Growing Conditions

Garlic care consists of regular watering, weeding, loosening the plot and top dressing. It is imperative to remove the arrows of garlic as soon as they form, and also know how to process garlic in the event of an attack by pests or infection with some kind of ailment.

Watering

Garlic is watered as the soil dries up, in dry weather watering is plentiful - 10-12 liters per m², but if it rains regularly, you can stop watering and refuse. They completely stop watering the garlic in August, when the bulb begins to gain weight and volume.

TOP-9 varieties of tomatoes for juice and salads - for greenhouses and open ground!

Top dressing

As soon as shoots appear in the spring, green garlic is fed with nitrogen fertilizers (Fertakoy, mullein or urea), after two weeks the garlic is fertilized again. In total, it is enough to fertilize the area with garlic four times during the season.

Pests and diseases

What is the disease of garlic, and what other enemies does it have in the open field? Diseases and pests of garlic and onions are almost the same. Of the diseases, the most dangerous are white, cervical and gray rot, helminthosporium, fusarium, smut, jaundice, downy mildew (or peronosporosis), mosaic, rust and tracheomycosis.

Of the insects most often causing trouble for garlic are the onion secretive proboscis, tobacco thrips, stem nematode, caterpillars of winter, cabbage, garden and gamma scoops, sprout and onion flies, common bear, onion moth and centipede.

Garlic Treatment

We could list pesticides and pesticides that will help you deal with almost all of the enemies of garlic, but before you treat the area with an insecticide or fungicide, remember that the head of garlic absorbs both nutrients and poisons, which you then eat. Wouldn't it be better to try to prevent a situation in which you have to risk either the crop harvest or your own health?

The guarantee of a rich harvest of high-quality garlic is the observance of crop rotation and agrotechnical requirements of the culture: do not plant garlic on the old bed until 4-5 years have passed; treat the storage two months before laying the garlic with a solution of 400 g of bleach in 10 liters of water and take the pre-sowing treatment of cloves and bulbs seriously. The health of the seed, in addition to the processing methods already described by us, can be ensured by heating the teeth at a temperature of 40-42 ºC for 10 hours.

Harvesting and storage

Garlic is harvested from mid-August to the end of the first ten days of September, and winter - in late July or early August.

Lest you be mistaken with the timing, here are the signs that will tell you that the garlic is ready for harvest:

new feathers have ceased to form;

old feathers turned yellow and died;

heads have formed and acquired the color and volume characteristic of the variety.

If you are late in harvesting, the garlic will grow again, the head will fall into cloves, and such garlic will become unsuitable for long-term storage. Garlic is dug up with a pitchfork or pulled out of the ground, leaving it to dry on the edge of the furrow. Then they shake off the ground from it and dry the heads in air at a temperature of about 25 ºC for ten days or a week in a ventilated room at a temperature of 30-35 ºC, after which they cut off the roots and leaves, leaving a neck about 5 cm long for non-shooting varieties and about 2 see shooters.

The optimum storage temperature for spring garlic is 16-20 ºC and for winter garlic is 2-4 ºC. Winter garlic is more capricious than spring garlic and is not suitable for long-term storage, it is more often affected by rot already during storage and dries quickly, so the room where the garlic will be stored should not be either too dry or too humid. The optimum humidity for storing garlic is 60-80%. The best keeping quality is possessed by heads with three covering scales and with a bottom cauterized by fire.

Everyone is familiar with the method of weaving garlic into braids or wreaths. To do this, the false stem at the head is not cut off, but only the leaves are removed, after which they begin to weave the braid from below, gradually adding new heads, and to give the braid strength, twine is added to the weaving. A loop is made at the end of the braid so that it can be stored in a suspended state. You can not bother braiding, but simply tie the heads behind the false stems in a bunch. You can store such braids or bundles under the very ceiling or under the roof of dry sheds or attics.

A popular way to store garlic is to hang it in nylon stockings or nets. You can also store garlic in wicker baskets, placing them in a residential area that is not heated in winter - in the attic or veranda. Garlic is stored in sterilized glass jars, sometimes sprinkled with salt, and sometimes not. Garlic sprinkled with salt can also be stored in small wooden boxes. Some housewives rinse the heads of garlic in brine, let them dry and store them in linen bags that are hung from the ceiling.

Do not forget to sort through stored garlic from time to time in order to identify a rotten or drying head in time.

Species and cultivars

Outdoor garlic cultivars are divided into three groups:

winter shooters;

winter non-shooting;

spring non-shooters.

Winter varieties are distinguished by early ripening, abundant harvest with larger heads and cloves, but winter garlic is not stored well, so it is better to use it for cooking and as a seasoning for canning vegetables and pickling.

Main winter varieties:

Boguslavsky - in a spherical head weighing up to 45 g, no more than 6 cloves, the color of the shell is lilac-gray, the variety is cold-resistant;

Komsomolets - in a large dense head, covered with a pinkish husk, from 6 to 13 cloves of spicy taste, mid-season variety, shooter, resistant to cold;

Yubileiny Gribovsky – high-yielding, medium-late, shooter, disease-resistant variety of very sharp taste with large heads in a matte lilac husk, in which from 10 to 12 cloves;

Gribovskiy 60 – an early ripening variety with a sharp taste, resistant to weather conditions, with the number of teeth in the head from 7 to 11;

Petrovsky – arrowy winter variety with high yield, disease resistance and excellent keeping quality, with a sharp taste and dense pulp;

Losevsky is a high-yielding, winter-hardy, shooter mid-season variety with a sharp taste with a round-flat bulb with a narrowing upwards, weighing up to 80 g, consisting of 4-5 cloves. Shelf life up to 6 months;

Yubilejny 07 – shooter mid-season productive variety of semi-acute taste with a round-flat head weighing up to 80 g, consisting of 5-8 cloves. Shelf life no more than 6 months;

Gulliver is a mid-late shooter variety with a flat-round head with dark gray covering scales, white flesh and a sharp taste. The number of teeth is from 3 to 5 pieces, the weight of the head is from 90 to 120 g, the shelf life is up to 8 months;

Flight - small mass, cold-resistant heads with no more than eight teeth.

In addition to those listed, varieties Parus, Prometheus, Sofievsky, Spas, Kharkov violet, Lyubasha, Donetsk violet, Promin, Leader, Saksky and others are popular in cultivation.

Spring varieties are distinguished by a higher keeping quality than winter varieties, however, they require certain storage conditions, otherwise they may be affected by rot. The growing season for spring garlic is about three months.

The most common varieties of spring garlic:

Gafuriyskiy – fast ripening variety, spicy and prolific – up to 18 cloves in a large head;

Ukrainian White - number of teeth about 20, head large, flattened;

Degtyarsky - non-shooting mid-season variety of semi-sharp taste with the number of teeth in the head from 16 to 18;

Elenovsky – non-shooting variety with medium spicy taste and good keeping quality with white upper scales and pinkish inner ones;

Ershovsky - non-shooting mid-season variety with a semi-acute taste, a round-flat head weighing up to 35 g, stored up to 7 months and with a number of teeth from 16 to 25.

Of the varieties of foreign selection are of interest:

French varieties of pink Lautrec garlic;

frost-resistant Czech variety Red Duke, the head of which consists of 8 large violet lobes, although its outer scales are white;

Elephant garlic of delicate taste, the head of which reaches a diameter of 15 cm and weighs one kilogram, although there were instances of 2.
Learn more

Storage solution for small kitchen

Grey painted kitchen

Sedum roof systems

Keep flies out your house

House front door color ideas

Washing care label symbols

Walk in wardrobe interiors

Wall shelf living room ideas

How long does a mango seed take to germinate

Unique bedroom wall paint ideas

Radishes in garden