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Hydrangea garden bed


All About Hydrangeas - GreenScapes Garden Center & Landscape Co.

Hydrangeas are medium sized deciduous shrubs with large leaves and attractive, long-lasting summer flowers. The large showy flowers appear in midsummer to late summer and vary in form from flat “Lacecap” clusters, to big globe shaped flowers to tall upright panicles. Flower color on the blue varieties will vary from pink to blue depending on how acidic the soil is. Hydrangeas prefer sun to partial shade and moist, well drained soil.

Arborescens (Smooth) Hydrangea

This New England native boasts large clusters of 4-6” dull white to pink flowers from June into later summer. These shrubs are hardy to zone 4 and prefer sun to partial shade. Most have a mounding habit and will grow 3 to 5 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide. Varieties include: Annabelle (white flowers) and Invincible Spirit (pink flowers).

Macrophylla Hydrangea

(Big Leaf & Lacecap)

This rounded, deciduous shrub will quickly grow between 3 and 6 feet tall and just as wide. Numerous cultivars make a flower description difficult; however, they are all magnificent. Flower colors range from white and pink to purple and blue.

Most varieties bloom from July through August, some lasting longer. For the Big Leaf Hydrangeas, flower color depends on the soil pH; acid soil procedures blue flowers, alkaline produces pink. Of the listed varieties below, these seem to be the hardiest and the most consistent flowering of the Macrophyllas for our area.

Varieties include: Endless Summer, Twist & Shout, Blushing Bride, and Big Daddy, Glowing Embers, and Nikko Blue.

Paniculata (Panicle) Hydrangea

Hardy to zone 4, this hydrangea’s branching resembles a fountain; branches come from one central point and cascade over. A taller variety, these can reach heights of 6 to 10 feet. Panicle hydrangeas can also come in a tree form. White flowers emerge in mid July and mature to pinkish hue by September. Flowers are very fragrant and great for cutting and drying.

Varieties include: Pee Gee, Kyushu, Limelight, Pink Diamond, and Tardiva.

Quercifolia (Oakleaf) Hydrangea

These plants are wider than they are tall and can get as tall as 8 feet, but most do not exceed 4 to 6 feet. The oak-like leaf shape is a dark green color throughout the summer turning to shades of red, purple, and even orange. The clusters of flowers are upright and pyramidal and can reach 10” long. As the flowers age, they turn to a lovely shade of pink in the late summer and into fall. Varieties include: Oakleaf and Snow Queen.

Pruning & Deadheading

Hydrangeas are very forgiving and will not suffer if left un-pruned. In fact, young, recently planted shrubs are best left alone. Deadheading spent flowers will encourage new buds to set and bloom throughout the season; cutting blooms actually encourages more flowers. Leaving spent blooms on the plant through the winter adds interest and helps to insulate new buds. Do not prune spent blooms in the spring; you may risk pruning off new flower buds. Unless you are trying to maintain size, pruning Hydrangeas should only be done when necessary and only immediately after the flower is beginning to brown. Any longer after that, you may trim off next year’s flower buds.

Planting of Hydrangeas:

The first step in planning a planting is assessing the plant site and fitting the appropriate plant species to that site. Things to keep in mind for site selection: Soil conditions, sun and wind exposure, what size plant will the site allow, space constraints such as pavement, walkways, buildings, and other trees.

Things to keep in mind for plant selection: Tolerant to the moisture and drainage of your soil, tolerance to sun and wind exposure of your site, what mature size is appropriate for the site?

The Mohawk Valley has a predominately clay soil. This is one of the least desirable soils to grow your plants in. The best thing you can do for your plants would be to have them in a raised bed which will keep the plants main root system above the clay soil, which retains too much moisture, contains no air spaces, and becomes hard packed when dry.

Site Preparation

New landscape beds should be fully prepared prior to planting. This is the time to add extra topsoil, composted manures, etc., with the existing soil. If you are preparing a raised bed it is recommended to till the existing ground area prior to building the site up. If your soil is composed of clay you should add some form of compost at a 1-1 ratio. For sandy soils (usually found north of the Mohawk Valley) mix topsoil and compost at a 1-1 ratio.

Planting

The planting hole should be at least 2 times the width of the container. The depth of the hole has to be no deeper than the container.

1.) Find the trunk flare of the plant before you start excavating a hole.  The trunk flare is the area on a plant where the roots start on the trunk. Sometimes you will have to remove some soil to expose the trunk flare, do this after you have the plant in the hole. Excavate a hole using the rule above for measurements. Slope the sides of the hole, increasing the friable soil for vigorous root growth. Remember when planting in clay soil to have the plant raised above the existing soil level by 4-6 inches.

2.) Remove the container gently, prior to planting. Sometimes container-grown plants become rootbound. This means that the roots have become overgrown with in the container. If you notice an overabundance of roots, make some vertical slits down the sides of the rootball and spread the outer roots gently.

3.) Backfill the hole with the amended soil. Do not stamp the soil down too hard. Packing the soil down too hard may make drainage and aeration difficult. A raised ring of soil formed around the edge of the rootball will create a basin that can be filled with water.

Watering

Watering is the most important thing you have to do to maintain a properly planted tree or shrub. All new plantings, depending on the weather conditions, will probably need to be watered at least once a week for the next 2-4 weeks. After the initial 2-4 weeks, all plantings should be checked frequently for adequate moisture levels for at least a year (especially during the hot and dry summer and fall months).  The easiest and best way to tell if your plant needs water is to make a hole in the soil about two inches deep beneath the plant and feel if there is moisture or not. If the soil feels dry, it is recommended to set a hose at a trickle at the base of the plant until the area is thoroughly wet. Watering time will vary depending on the size of the rootball. You want to water so that the entire rootball is wet. A quick sprinkle from a hose does not provide enough water to seep into the deeper roots.

Planting hydrangeas: in pots & garden beds

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There are a lot of factors to consider when planting hydrangeas: in beds or pots, information on soil requirements, and the best plants to accompany hydrangeas can be found here.

Hydrangeas can be planted both in garden beds and in containers [Photo: SutidaS/ Shutterstock.com]

While the Hydrangea genus consists of a wide variety of species, the most notable and most common variety found in most gardens is the bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). Here is our guide on how to plant hydrangeas in the garden, regardless of which hydrangea variety you choose.

This section discusses the right location for hydrangeas and which soil to plant them in. Here we will also talk about the difference between growing hydrangeas in pots, garden beds, or as hedges and give you tips on replanting as well as companion plants to the hydrangea.

Contents

Planting hydrangeas: the ideal location

Most woody and shrubby hydrangeas originate from the temperate areas of East Asia, where they can be found in the undergrowth of native forests where they are exposed to very little light. Even though hydrangeas can be cultivated around the world nowadays, these flowering shrubs should still be planted in a shady spot, ideally a semi-shade location. When exposed to too much shade, hydrangeas will not grow well and develop long and thin-leaved shoots, with little flowers. Hydrangeas can get gradually used to a sunny location, but because they also require a large amount of water, they can dry out faster than expected.

Planting hydrangeas: soil requirements

Hydrangeas need to be planted in slightly acidic soil, a pH value between 4 and 5 is optimal, and should never exceed 6.2. Notably, the pH value of the soil will influence the hydrangea’s colour: the more acidic the soil (5.5-6.2) will colour the hydrangea in red or pink, while the more alkaline the soil (5.2-5.5) will colour hydrangeas blue. Slightly more alkaline soil does not have any drastic or life-threatening effects on the plant or its growth, but an alkaline pH value can in the long run lead to deficiency symptoms or the desired colour of the flowers not forming. For further information on yellow leaves on hydrangeas click here.

It is also important to pay attention to the hydrangea’s high water requirements. Drought damage can occur quickly in hydrangeas, and hydrangeas should be planted in soil with a good water-holding capacity. The soil should however at the same time not be prone to waterlogging, as this may quickly lead to deadly root rot.

Hydrangeas prefer a semi-shaded location with soil that drains well [Photo: TruePhotography/ Shutterstock.com]

Summary: Where to plant hydrangeas

Planting hydrangeas

Hydrangeas can not only be cultivated in garden beds but also as potted plants. If you can’t get enough of the beautiful bushes, we will show you how to plant hydrangea borders.

Planting hydrangeas in garden beds

Once you find a suitable spot in the garden to plant your hydrangea, there is one more step to consider before proceeding. For soils with too high a pH value, it is a good idea to dig a slightly larger hole. Thus there is more space for some added soil with a suitable pH value, such as rhododendron soil. Loosen up the soil around the plants to enable the hydrangea to take root and make sure that the soil is not too compacted after planting! It is a common misconception that stepping on the ground surrounding the plant will help it ‘hold better’ in place. As always, water your plant well before and after planting.

Summary: Growing hydrangeas in garden beds

Planting hydrangea flower beds

To plant hydrangea flower beds choose a sunny to a semi-shady location in the garden. Hydrangeas should be planted in spring or early summer, though they can also be planted in autumn. When planning your garden, keep in mind that the hydrangeas are large plants that will grow bigger. Make sure to keep enough planting distance, the planting holes should all be twice the size of the pots you bought the hydrangeas in. Use a hoe to loosen the soil at the bottom of the planting holes a bit to help the roots spread. To meet the soil requirements of hydrangeas, add a soil with low pH. Mixing garden soil and planting soil can also help stimulate root formation.

Before planting the hydrangeas, water the root ball well. To water the root ball, place the plant in a bucket of water until air bubbles stop rising. Just before planting, carefully loosen the root ball a bit to encourage their growth. Place the hydrangea in the planting hole and fill it with the mixture of garden soil and hydrangea soil.

Tip: Do not plant your hydrangea too deep, the top of the root ball should be level with the soil.

Planting hydrangeas in pots

Though hydrangeas are large plants, they can also be cultivated in pots. Hydrangeas prefer semi-shade locations and should still be located in one even when potted. As potted hydrangeas dry out easily, they require regular watering. The container should provide enough space for the hydrangea to grow.

Since hydrangeas prefer a slightly more acidic pH value in the root zone, it is recommended to use rhododendron or azalea soil when planting. For an optimal water supply from the beginning, the hydrangea can be dipped into a bucket filled with water just before planting. The plant is kept completely submerged until no more air bubbles rise. After planting, you should water the hydrangea thoroughly again so that the loosened soil settles and the roots have access to water and nutrients.

Summary: Potted hydrangeas

Growing hydrangea borders

Hydrangeas have traditionally been grown as hedges. Unfortunately, the beloved bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is one of the few hydrangea varieties that can not be grown as a hedge because of their shape and sensitivity. Other hydrangea varieties make wonderful borders though, the panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata), for example, is well suited for this purpose. You can prune it to whatever shape you need it to be. The colour range of hydrangea borders is somewhat limited, only white or light pink hydrangea species can be grown as hedges. When planted at a distance of one metre, a dense hedge will quickly develop. Hydrangea hedges should be watered regularly and pruned in autumn or spring.

Summary: Planting hydrangea borders

Replanting hydrangeas

Repotting can be a stressful experience for plants, hydrangeas included. They should be repotted as seldom as possible, though if replanting cannot be avoided, there are a few tips and tricks to help the hydrangea adapt to its new location with ease.

When to replant hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are best repotted in autumn. In the fall, plants conserve energy because they no longer have to grow new shoots. This lets the hydrangeas concentrate on developing new and healthy roots. Of course, hydrangeas can also be replanted in spring or summer, but the risk of damage caused by drought is much higher.

How to replant hydrangeas

Here is our step-by-step guide on how to move hydrangeas safely:

Tip: Fertilising hydrangeas in pots is especially important because the nutrients are used up more quickly than in beds due to smaller soil volume. Natural slow-release fertilisers like our Plantura Hydrangea Food can help potted hydrangeas stay well-fed. If you are planting blue hydrangeas, you need a special fertiliser that helps them maintain their blue colour. You can learn more about maintaining blue hydrangeas here.

Hydrangea Food, 1.5kg

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Companion plants for hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are stunning stand-alone plants, but you can also combine them with other plants. Here are some suitable companion plants that will compliment your hydrangeas.

Companion plants can help hydrangeas flourish [Photo: Ann W. Kosche/ Shutterstock.com]

Companion plants for hydrangeas in garden beds

Garden beds come alive with blooming plants and the same goes for shrub beds. It is a great idea to plant various perennials around the hydrangea. The following plants do particularly well in the hydrangea’s company:

Of course, many other plants make suitable companions for hydrangeas. The most important criterion is however always that they share the same (semi-shade) location preferences.

Planting companion plants underneath hydrangeas

Another option on how to fill out empty spaces in a hydrangea garden bed is to plant underneath the brush. More branchy hydrangea varieties leave a good amount of ground space left uncovered. Here are some plants that grow nicely beneath a hydrangea:

How to plant hydrangea: 5 options with photo

Hydrangea, with its huge inflorescences and beautiful green foliage, is an adornment of any garden on its own, without neighboring plants. However, a properly selected companion can enhance the beauty of the shrub, make it even brighter and more expressive.

What plants would look good next to a hydrangea? There can be many options here, here are just a few examples of successful combinations:

  1. Look for plants that will match the shape of the leaf blades or the color scheme of your hydrangea. For example, if your shrub has rounded leaves, then choose a plant with rounded foliage as a companion. Your hydrangea has purple buds - plant flowers of the same color next to it.
  2. Select plants that will contrast with the hydrangea. For example, against the background of lace wai ferns, hydrangea with its whole leaves will look advantageous. If you want to "play" on color contrast, then plant a bush of scarlet roses next to a white hydrangea - with such a neighborhood, each of the plants will look even more expressive.
  3. Quite often, stunted plants are located next to tall hydrangea bushes. In this case, a low neighbor "covers" the bare hydrangea shoots, leaving only beautiful parts of the bush for viewing.

What hydrangea loves

However, it is not enough to choose a flower or bush that will harmonize well with the hydrangea in terms of color, height or volume. The fact is that hydrangeas have very peculiar requirements for the soil, so not every outwardly ideal "partner" will withstand the conditions that this "magnificent beauty" needs. What does hydrangea need for normal development?

  1. Humidity . The name of the hydrangea in Latin sounds like Hydrangea (Hydrangea), which means "water vessel". It is clear that a plant with this name is moisture-loving. For this reason, you should not plant hydrangeas too close to trees, especially near birches, because the latter will draw moisture from the soil, taking it away from the hydrangea.
  2. Penumbra . Hydrangea can, of course, grow in the sun, but the ideal place for it is a place where the sun shines in the morning, and in the afternoon, during the hottest period of the day, the bush is in the shade.
  3. Fertile soil . Hydrangea will show itself in all its glory and will bloom profusely only on fertile soil.
  4. Acidic soil . Unlike most plants, hydrangea prefers acidic soil with a pH level of 5-5.5.

Option 1. Hydrangea and conifers

One of the best neighbors for hydrangeas will be conifers: arborvitae, junipers, spruces, dwarf pines, etc.

Various combinations of slender arborvitae and sprawling hydrangea bushes look great. They can be planted in two tiers: in the background - high arborvitae, in front - lower hydrangea bushes. In this case, the thuja create the shadow necessary for the hydrangeas.

It is also possible to arrange the plants in one row, but do not place the seedlings very close to each other during planting. Plant them at a distance of 1.5-2 m - that is how much space each of their plants needs for normal growth and development in adulthood.

No less interesting is the option where, next to large hydrangea bushes, there are undersized junipers (pictured). With this planting, both plants will feel comfortable, because they equally love acidic soil and easily tolerate partial shade.

Hydrangea paniculata Cotton Cream is characterized by a compact bush up to 1 m in height. If the plant is not pruned, it can grow to over 2 m.

Inflorescences are greenish when blooming, then creamy white, and at the end of flowering they turn pinkish. Panicled hydrangea Cotton Cream blooms for about 3.5 months, starting from July.

Juicy juniper green Green Carpet favorably sets off delicate hydrangea inflorescences. Such landings will look good both in a flower bed and as a hedge.

In addition to Green Carpet , other varieties of juniper are in perfect harmony with hydrangea. The composition will look completely different if, for example, instead of green juniper, you plant bushes with silver, golden or bluish needles.

Option 2. Hydrangea and astilba

The second variant we offer consists of hydrangea and astilba. Thanks to the harmonious combination of shades and the contrast of shapes, it will be possible to create a bright and attractive corner in the garden. Astilbe feels good in such conditions that hydrangeas like, so the neighborhood will be a joy to her.

Large-leaved hydrangea Endless Summer is very popular in central Russia, tk. able to endure harsh winters quite easily.

Another advantage of this variety is its long flowering period, which lasts from early summer to September. This happens due to the fact that the flowers of the hydrangea Endless Summer appear both on the branches of the last year and on new shoots. For this feature, the variety got its name - Endless Summer . To encourage re-blooming, regularly remove wilted buds.

The height of the bush can reach 1.5 m. The shade of large spherical inflorescences can be corrected by changing the level of soil acidity. If you want them to turn pink, add some lime to the soil. However, this must be done in advance, either in late autumn or early spring.

Hydrangea's companion in this variant is Astilba sinensis Vision . This shade-tolerant plant looks great against the background of hydrangea, shading, but not closing it, because. astilba reaches a height of only 60-70 cm. The perennial blooms in July-August, throwing out vertical paniculate inflorescences of a rich pink or purple-red hue.

Astilbe remains attractive after flowering thanks to its foliage. Fern-like openwork branches are pleasing to the eye and look good against the background of rounded hydrangea leaves.

Option 3. Hydrangeas and ornamental grasses

If you want the hydrangea to be the main focus of the composition, plant ornamental grasses next to it. They will create a soft background and emphasize the beauty of the shrub. Most ornamental grasses do not require special care, so their cultivation will not cause difficulties.

The basis of the composition in option 3 is two varieties of large-leaved blue hydrangea - Endless Summer (Endless Summer) and Blaumeise (Blaumeise) . In the foreground is a low bush of golden ornamental hakonehloya grass. The contrasting combination of such dissimilar - both in color and foliage - plants will favorably emphasize the beauty of each of them.

Hydrangea Endless Summer has large - up to 20 cm in diameter - inflorescences, shaped like a ball. The height of the bush reaches 1.5 m.

Hydrangea Blaumeise has unusual lacy inflorescences for this species. They do not have a spherical, but a flat shape, and they consist of unequal flowers: in the middle of the inflorescence they are small, and along the edge on long legs there are spectacular large flowers of blue or bright blue. The diameter of the inflorescence is 20-25 cm. Flowering begins in mid-July and continues until September. The bush is compact, and the height and diameter are approximately the same - 90-130 cm. Depending on the acidity of the soil, the color of hydrangea flowers can change: from purple-pink - on slightly alkaline soils to blue - on very acidic ones.

Hakonehloa (hakonehloa, hakone) is a perennial ornamental grass, often also referred to as Japanese forest grass. Its graceful leaves come in various shades: golden, green, white. Often there is a green longitudinal stripe in the middle of the leaf blade. The plant reaches a height of 45 cm, the diameter of the bush is 60-75 cm. It grows slowly.

The stalks of hakonehloi initially stretch upwards, but over time, under the weight of the leaves, they bend and droop. The curved leaves of the plant become like a cascade.

In addition to external beauty, Japanese forest grass has another advantage - it grows well in the shade. Therefore, option 4 is ideal for those who want to make a shady corner of the garden attractive: hydrangeas paired with hakone grass will help you with this.

Another option for planting hydrangea and Japanese forest grass together is in the photo below:

Option 4. Hydrangea and hostas

Speaking of the best plants that could be the company of hydrangeas, one cannot fail to mention the host. The drop-shaped leaves of this queen of the shady garden are in harmony with the leaf blades of most types of hydrangeas, and the expressive colors of the hosta, on the contrary, create a contrast with the calm greenery of the hydrangea. As for the growing conditions, here they have a complete match. Both plants prefer moist and fertile soil. Both feel great in the shade. Both hosta and hydrangea grow well in slightly acidic soil. The fourth option, which we want to present to you, just consists of a pair of hydrangea plus a host.

Large-leaved Hydrangea Madame Emile Mouillere has been decorating gardens for over 100 years. This is one of the best winter-hardy varieties of large-leaved hydrangea.

The bush grows in height from 1.2 to 1.8 m. It blooms both on the shoots of the last and the current year, so the flowering is long - from the end of July to September. However, even after flowering, hydrangea Madame Emile Mouillere does not lose its decorative effect. In autumn, its green foliage gradually changes color to orange or red.

The inflorescences of this variety are large, 15-20 cm in diameter, spherical in shape. The color of the flowers is white or pale pink. The edges of the petals are serrated.

Hydrangea Madame Emile Mouillere has one more advantage - it is almost not affected by diseases and pests.

Hosta Patriot is one of the most popular and favorite varieties of hostas for summer residents. And not only, by the way, summer residents: in 1997, the American Association of Host Manufacturers called Patriot Host of the Year.

Large leaves of hosta Patriot have a dark green center and a wide white stripe along the edge. The flowers are blue or purple, appear on long stems in July-August. Plant height - 50-60 cm. Adult sprawling bush reaches a diameter of 60-70 cm.

The main danger that awaits the host Patriot - slugs and snails that eat the leaves of the plant.

This soft and elegant combination of large-leaved hydrangea Madame Emile Mouillere and hostas Patriot will brighten up your garden from summer to autumn and at the same time will not cause any special difficulties in growing.

Option 5. Hydrangea and roses

One of the most beautiful combinations is hydrangea and roses. The queen of the shady garden next to the queen of flowers is, undoubtedly, not allies (as was the case in all previous versions), but competitors who are fighting for your attention, but at the same time they complement each other perfectly.

Huge soft pink balls of large-leaved hydrangea Endless Summer bloom almost all summer.

The period of appearance of flowers in a rose depends on the type and variety. For example, remontant varieties, like hydrangea Endless Summer (Endless Summer) , bloom on the shoots of the past and current year. For this reason, after flowering at the beginning of summer, you can admire another, albeit not so abundant, flowering at the end of the season. However, do not forget that caring for a rose will require more effort from you than for a rather unpretentious hydrangea.

Hydrangeas can have many companion plants. The main thing is that they need the same growing conditions.

scheme, description, pros and cons of capillary irrigation

From abroad, where water is very expensive, we have migrated technology capillary (self-moistening) beds. Our gardeners immediately fell in love with these beds, as they save not only water, but also labor costs for irrigation.

Contents

The lower one is permeable bulk building materials: fine gravel, crushed stone, expanded clay, coarse sand (1/3 of the height of the structure). The top layer is a fertile earth mixture (2/3 of the height of the structure). Between them, a non-woven material with good hygroscopic properties is laid.

The bottom layer serves as a water collector, which is saturated with moisture coming from a pipe laid in it. Then the moisture is transferred, as if through capillaries, up through the fibers of the non-woven material and wets the ground. Thus, the plants in the garden always have access to water. And so that the surface of the earth does not dry out, it is mulched with peat, compost, straw, needles.

Scheme of a capillary bed

Manufacturing technology

For a bed, you need to build a high frame from sheets of slate, plastic, boards, cement, etc. Inside, line it with non-woven material, on top of which put a thick plastic film.

Then cover the bottom of the frame with another layer of non-woven material and place half of the bulk building material on it. Next, lay a pipe with a row of holes pointing down (so as not to clog). Bend its end at the edge of the frame and bring it up (water will be poured here). Close the opposite end of the pipe with a plug. In the bed frame above the pipe level, make a hole for water to drain in case of overflow. Lay the second half of the bulk building material.

Then lay down the non-woven fabric. Sprinkle earthen mixture and mulch on top.

Pros

Capillary beds have many advantages. They do not require ground watering with a hose or watering can. And they rarely need to be watered. It is enough to moisten the lower layer of loose material 3-4 times a month.

The top layer of beds is always loose, water and breathable, which is beneficial for plants. The designs of the beds are high, and you do not need to bend low over them when working with plantings.

Such beds can be placed close to the foundations of buildings. After all, they do not release water outside the frame, which means that the walls will not dampen. (Only make a runoff for excess moisture from the opposite side of the bed from the building.) And in the spring, the earth in the frame quickly warms up with warm air from all sides.

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