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How to rose cuttings


How To Take Rose Cuttings

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Roses can be grown successfully from cuttings and will grow on to make good flowering plants.

Choose healthy stems of the current season’s growth and follow our step-by-step advice to be sure of success. Roots will be produced over the winter months so that the rose cuttings can be potted in spring or early summer next season.

Rose cuttings should be taken from the current year’s growth. You can take flexible, softwood rose cuttings of very new growth in late-spring and summer – these root quickly and easily. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer and early autumn, when new stems are firmer and more mature. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems in winter, and are  the slowest and most difficult to root.

For best results we recommend taking softwood rose cuttings in late spring and early summer, choosing pencil-sized stems just beneath a faded flower.

Here, Monty demonstrates how to take hardwood cuttings from species roses:

Secateurs are the best tool to use to take cuttings and to help you choose the right pair for you we’ve reviewed different types of secateurs and put together a list of the best secateurs

There are also more detailed, individual secateur reviews.

And if you need help choosing other pruning tools see our expert, individual lopper reviews and best loppers round up.

In a hurry? Here is a selection of our Best Buys from our secateurs and loppers tests:

More roses content:

Discover how to take rose cuttings, below.

You Will Need

Step 1

You can take cuttings from any type of rose you choose, but make sure you select long, strong, healthy stems from this season’s growth, not old wood.

Selecting rose cutting material from the current year’s growth

Step 2

Make the cuttings 25cm long, cutting above a bud at the top to remove the shoot tip and below one at the base. Leave one leaf at the top and remove all the lower leaves.

Removing the leaves from the stems

Step 3

Dip the base of the cutting into rooting hormone mixture. Insert several cuttings into a large pot of gritty compost or a narrow trench bottomed with horticultural grit.

Inserting the cuttings into a trench filled with grit

Step 4

Water well, place the pot in a shaded spot and leave until cuttings have rooted. Keep the compost moist. Pot up rose plants individually when well rooted, probably next summer. If growing the cuttings in a trench, carefully fork them out to avoid damaging the roots and plant out in their final location.

Filling in the trench

Rose replant disease

Rose replant disease is a poorly understood disorder affecting roses that have been planted in soil where roses were previously grown. It’s thought to be the result of pest and pathogen build up in the soil. Symptoms include poor establishment, growth and even death of the rose.

Avoid it by swapping the old soil with fresh soil from somewhere else in the garden. Feed with a high-nitrogen fertiliser after planting.

 

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How to Propagate Roses From Stem Cuttings

By

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 10/18/22

Reviewed by

Julie Thompson-Adolf

Reviewed by Julie Thompson-Adolf

Julie Thompson-Adolf is a master gardener and author. She has 13+ years of experience with year-round organic gardening; seed starting and saving; growing heirloom plants, perennials, and annuals; and sustainable and urban farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

The Spruce / Claire Cohen

In This Article

Project Overview

Propagating herbaceous plants is often done by rooting green stem cuttings, but the process can also be successful with woody-stemmed plants, including some roses. Rooting stem cuttings of roses and other woody plants works best with so-called "wild" or "native" pure species, rather than hybrid shrubs. That's because many hybrids are created through a grafting process in which branches from showy but delicate species are melded onto rootstock from a sturdier species.

The result of grafting can be a spectacular plant with exceptional root hardiness. But if you propagate a new plant from a branch clipping, it will lack the parent plant's root hardiness. Thus, it's best to use stem clippings only to propagate non-grafted roses, which include many so-called shrub roses.

The stem clipping method is a bit tricky with woody plants, and you should expect that several attempts will end in failure. Take extra cuttings to ensure you have at least a few viable prospects. Still, if you take your cuttings from a healthy rose plant and follow the proper steps to root them, your odds of developing new plants will be high.

What Is a Shrub Rose?

The term "shrub rose" is defined by the American Rose Society (ARS) as “a class of hardy, easy-care plants that encompass bushy roses that do not fit in any other category of rose bush. ” Many people use the term to refer to any type of non-hybrid rose, but there are several types of hybrid roses that do fit into the ARS's definition of shrub roses, including Moyesi hybrids, hybrid musk roses, Kordesii roses, English roses, and Knock Out roses. These join the many native rose species to form the category of shrub roses. However, any of these hybrid roses described as an "own-root" rose rather than a grafted rose may lend itself to successful propagation from stem cuttings.

When to Propagate a Rose by Stem Cuttings

Rooting a stem cutting can be done almost any time, but cuttings taken from new growth that has recently flowered (rather than old, hardened wood) are more likely to root successfully. Spring or fall is the best time to take softwood stem cuttings. Select them in the early morning hours when the plant is well hydrated. Moreover, avoid taking cuttings when your plant is heavily blooming. At this time, the plant is putting most of its energy into flower production rather than root development, so cuttings won't readily root.

Before Getting Started

Sharp pruners are necessary when taking rose cuttings. Dull tools can crush the rose's woody stems instead of forming a clean slice, which can make the cutting susceptible to fungal rot. Furthermore, make sure to clean your pruners before and after each cutting to avoid transmitting any diseases. 

Be patient when growing roses from cuttings. It can take several years for your new rose to produce flowers.

Click Play to Learn How to Grow Roses From Cuttings

Equipment / Tools

Materials

The Spruce / Michela Buttignol

  1. Take Cuttings

    Start by taking a 12-inch segment of a new stem that has recently bloomed, cutting it from the plant at a 45-degree angle.  The stem should be about the width of a pencil. The best cuttings for rooting usually come from the sides of the bush, rather than the center.

    Remove any flowers or flower buds along the cut stem. Flowers or buds on the cut branch will consume energy, and you want to encourage the stem to refocus its survival energy on sending out new roots. If you're taking multiple cuttings, place them in a container of water to keep them hydrated until you're ready to propagate them.

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

  2. Remove Most Leaves

    Remove all but the top two sets of leaves on the stem. Then, cut off the remaining portion of the stem just above this top set of leaves. Removing the excess leaves will help the cutting divert its energy to root production.

  3. Prepare the Stem for Rooting

    Using sharp pruning shears, make a fresh cut on the bottom of the stem just below a stem node (a bump where new growth typically forms). Then, slice into the bottom of the stem about a 1/4 inch up, splitting the stem into open quarters.

    Apply Rooting Hormone

    Although not absolutely necessary, applying a rooting hormone can help spur your rose plant into developing new roots. Rooting hormones can be found in powder, liquid, and gel form—you'll have the best success with the powder version when working with roses. To apply, slightly moisten the split end of the rose cutting, and then dip it into the powdered rooting hormone. Shake off any excess.

  4. Plant the Cutting

    Fill a small pot with at least 6 inches of a potting mix formulated especially for roses. Poke a hole in the potting medium, and then insert the stem sliced-side down, taking care not to rub off the rooting hormone. Gently pack the soil around the stem, and water well. 

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

  5. Cover the Cutting

    Loosely cover the cutting, pot and all, with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help retain soil moisture. Be sure not to let the plastic touch any remaining leaves on the stem, which can cause them to remain wet and susceptible to fungal disease. Putting a tall stake into the pot can help hold the plastic away from the leaves. The bag also needs to be slightly vented, so condensation can escape—if you seal the bag too tightly, the stem can rot.  Place the cutting under grow lights or near a bright window.

  6. Monitor the Cutting

    Keep the soil moist until roots begin to form, which usually takes about two weeks. Check for roots by gently tugging on the stem—if there's resistance, roots are probably present.

    Your cutting can be transplanted into a pot or the ground as soon as the roots are firmly established or when new leaf sprouts begin to appear along the stem. Make sure to harden off the new rose—i.e., gradually expose it to outdoor conditions—before planting outside.

    The Spruce / Claire Cohen

How to Prepare for Rose Bloom Season

methods of cuttings in winter, spring, autumn with photos and videos

Rules for propagation of roses by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the main methods of rose propagation. There are two options - green and cuttings and lignified. The first case is used for summer propagation of garden roses. The second is for winter and spring. And he is the most popular. And in this way you can propagate roses from a bouquet, because in flowering shoots the lower part of the shoot is always lignified.

Cutting cuttings

Rooting cuttings can be cut from any part of the shoot, except for the top with a flower. Each cutting should have 2 nodes - this is the place where the leaves are attached to the stem and where the buds are. The thickness of the cutting should be at least 5 mm - too thin will not take root.

The bottom cut should be oblique - it is made just below the knot, stepping back about 5 mm. Why oblique? But because the callus (the tissue from which the roots then grow - a kind of white growth) is best formed around the cut. And the larger its area, the larger the callus. And one more thing: it is very important to make cuts with a sharp knife - if the tissues of the shoot are wrinkled, it will most likely rot and will not give roots.

Here the upper cut must be straight. They do it by stepping back from the node the same 5 mm. Why direct? Moisture escapes through the wound, and besides, it is an open gate for infection. That is why the area of ​​the upper cut should be minimal.

Preparing the cuttings

Remove the lower leaves from the cut cuttings. And the upper ones are shortened - rose leaves usually consist of 3 or 5 segments, and only 2 need to be left. For reliability, it is useful to cover the upper cut with children's plasticine.

Soil for rooting cuttings

Rose cuttings give roots, but not as easily as, for example, currant twigs - just putting them in water is not enough. It is best to root them in the ground. And there are options.

River sand. It is light, fluffy and very well breathable, which is necessary for the formation of roots. But there is a problem - the sand dries up very quickly. Therefore, it will need to be watered frequently. Or add perlite to it, which retains moisture.

Soil mixtures. There are 2 classic options:

The sand in this case is the baking powder. And peat or earth provide moisture capacity, that is, planted cuttings will have to be watered less often.

Rooting conditions for cuttings

Cuttings are buried in the substrate by about 1 cm. You need to make holes with a stick or pencil, insert the cuttings there and lightly compress the soil with your hands.

Then the cuttings should be well watered. And be sure to cover with either a jar or a plastic bag so that there is constantly high humidity around the planted cuttings. But! It is necessary (required!) Once a day to remove the jar (package) so that the cuttings are ventilated - otherwise they will become moldy and rot.

Another important point: the soil temperature should be about 21 °C, and the air temperature should be 2 - 3 °C lower (2). There is no place for cuttings on the windowsill - it is always cooler than necessary, and cold soil, combined with high humidity, always leads to an outbreak of fungal diseases.

Photo: pixabay.com

And, of course, cuttings need a lot of light. But not direct sunlight is the best - they will provoke increased evaporation of moisture from the leaves, as a result of which the cuttings can dry out.

Methods for cutting roses

Roses can be propagated by cuttings at almost any time of the year. And there are some interesting methods that allow you to propagate roses more efficiently.

Cuttings of roses from a bouquet

Bouquets given on March 8th have a short lifespan - in most cases they will last no more than a week. And so we want this beauty to be with us always ... But this is possible! For example, you can cut cuttings from roses from a bouquet, and then grow them in the garden.

Cuttings will only take root if the roses in the bouquet were fresh. It is useless to root dried shoots. But how to understand how fresh a flower is?

- The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sepals, small green “leaves” at the very base of the flower, advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - If they are raised up, literally "hug" the bud, then the flower is fresh. If they are lowered down, then the rose has been cut long ago.

Leaves are the second indicator of freshness.

– If you pick up a flower and the leaves begin to fall off, it means that the rose is not fresh, says Svetlana Mikhailova.

By the way, many buyers are guided by the degree of dissolution of the flower. They think that if the rose is still in bud, it means that it was cut recently. Nothing like this!

– Roses are stored in the refrigerator until they are sold, explains Svetlana Mikhailova. - They are even transported in refrigerators. Under such conditions, the bud will not open. Moreover, flowers are always stored and transported "dry", without water - they are simply packed in paper. And how much the rose spent in this form, no one knows.

It happens that without water and in the cold, roses spend a week or more. The buds will remain unopened, but the plant has already died. And so you bring home a bouquet, put it in water, hoping that now the flowers will bloom. But their heads just hang, never opening. They are dead. And it is pointless to cut such roses.

- This is often the case with Dutch roses, - says Svetlana Mikhailova, - because they are brought from afar. But now there are a lot of Russian greenhouse roses on the flower market. They are usually much fresher.

And this is the easiest way to cut them.

Cutting roses in winter

In winter, you can cut cuttings from purchased roses, for example, from the same bouquets. Or specially buy a flower you like in the store. In this case, the method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used.

Cuttings of roses in spring

Specialists do not advise radical pruning of roses in autumn, it is better to pin the shoots to the ground for the winter, and if you use this technology, then spring cuttings of roses are your option. After the winter shelter has been removed from the plants, they need to be cut off - cut out frozen branches and remove excess stems. So these very extra stems are excellent material for cuttings.

In this case, the standard method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is also used.

Cuttings of roses in summer

In summer, roses actively grow shoots, and at this time you can use the second method of propagation - green cuttings. They are cut from May to July, but it is better in the budding phase (3).

The stem to be taken from cuttings must be strong and fully green. The cuttings are cut about 10 cm long, but it is important that they have 2-3 buds. The top cut is made directly above the kidney. The lower one is oblique, just below the kidney. The lower leaves should be removed, leaving a couple of the top ones. And cut them so that out of 3 - 5 plates only two remain.

Before planting, the cuttings should be soaked in a Heteroauxin solution for 12 hours to stimulate root formation.

Prepared cuttings are planted in a shkolka - a secluded quiet place with fertile soil, deepening by 1.5 - 2 cm. Water well and cover with foil. Roses are photophilous plants, however, under the scorching rays of the sun, the cuttings begin to evaporate moisture too actively and dry out rather than give roots. Therefore, the shkolka should be done either under the light shade of trees, or the cuttings should be shaded with coniferous branches or burlap.

Planted cuttings should be watered frequently - the soil should be moist all the time. And in hot weather, it is useful to rinse the film with cold water.

Roots of green rose cuttings usually form after 3-4 weeks - new leaves speak for this. After that, the film must be gradually opened so that the plants get used to the open air - first for a couple of hours in the morning, then longer and longer. After 2 weeks, the film is removed completely.

In the future, young roses should be constantly watered, and carefully covered for the winter. In the spring they can be planted with a clod of earth in permanent places.

Potato rose cuttings

Both green and semi-woody cuttings can be rooted in this way. They are prepared in a standard way, but before planting they are stuck into potatoes, and only then, together with the tuber, they are planted in a school in the garden.

Why do they do it? And in order for the cuttings not to dry out, if it is not possible to water them often, this method is useful for weekend summer residents. Juicy potatoes. The moisture in it remains for a very long time, and even if the soil is dry, the cutting will not die.

Rose cuttings using the burrito method

This method of rooting cuttings is becoming more popular year by year. And it got its name from the Mexican analogue of shawarma - burrito. And you will understand why.

The point is this. The lower cut, as with traditional cuttings, is dusted with a root formation stimulator. Then several pieces of cuttings (usually 5-10 are recommended) are wrapped in 2-3 layers of newspaper or paper towels, moistened with water so that the paper is moist, but not wet, and then loosely (it is important that air penetrated inside) wrapped in polyethylene. It turns out a kind of bundle, similar to the same shawarma burrito. It is cleaned in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 14 - 18 ° C.

This is important! If the temperature is lower, the roots will not form. And if it is higher, the cuttings will either dry out (even constant moisture often does not save), or they will become moldy and begin to rot.

As a rule, the callus on the cuttings is formed after 3 weeks. If this does not happen, the cuttings are again wrapped in paper (if it has dried up, it must be moistened again) and the film and again sent to a dark, cool place.

When the callus is formed, the cuttings are planted one at a time in pots in light nutrient soil (traditional rooting mixtures are suitable) so that only 1 bud is above the soil surface, watered and covered with a jar or bag. And now they need to be placed in a bright (but not under direct sunlight) and warm place - the temperature should be 23 - 25 ° C.

The burrito method has been shown to give a higher percentage of rooting. And even varieties of roses that are difficult to propagate by cuttings, with this method, give roots much more readily.

Popular Questions and Answers

We talked about the propagation of roses by cuttings with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

Can all varieties of roses be propagated from cuttings?

Easily rooted cuttings of polyanthus (Border King, Paul Crampel, Holsiein), climbing (Bobbie James, Snow goose, Polka) and floribunda (Apricola, Edelweiss, Tequila) roses. Hybrid teas take root worse and give a weak root system. Roses with yellow flowers take root poorly (Papillon, Golden Tower, Yokey Dokey).

When to prune roses grown from cuttings?

They do not need to be trimmed in the first year of planting. The first pruning can be done next spring, cutting out dry and frozen branches. A cardinal pruning is best done from 3 years.

Which roses are better: grafted or own-rooted?

Both have their pros and cons. Own-rooted ones do not give wild shoots, however, their root systems are weaker and may suffer in a frosty snowless winter.

Roses grafted onto wild roses winter better, their roots are strong, but wild shoots constantly grow from the stock, which must be removed. And often the vaccine is short-lived.

Sources

  1. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals permitted for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation https://mcx.gov.ru/ministry/departments/ departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii-khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/
  2. Kudryavets D. B., Petrenko N.A. How to grow flowers. A book for students // M .: Education, 1993 - 176 p.
  3. Group of authors ed. Milovidova I.B. Flowers around us, 2nd ed., add. // Saratov, Privolzhskoe book publishing house, 1986 - 160 p.

How to root a rose from a bouquet. Step-by-step master class

What kind of roses are not sold in modern flower shops! Buyers are lured by luxurious hybrids of a wide variety of shades. Striped, purple, green, terry, with sharp petals - the variety and appearance of modern rose varieties is amazing.


Even knowing full well how capricious the queen of flowers is, every flower grower dreams of growing as many beautiful roses as possible on their garden plot. But where can you find high-quality planting material for little money, because rare varietal plants are very expensive? One way is to receive a bouquet as a gift or buy a cut rose and then try to root it.

In this case, the cost of the seedling will be really low. (Moreover, from one cut flower, several cuttings can be cut at once). However, this method cannot be called simple. It requires a well-known skill from the grower. In addition, not all cuttings take root, and not every store hybrid is able to withstand the climate of the middle lane. In order for a rose from a purchased bouquet to grow and bloom on your site, you will have to make a lot of effort, but the result is worth it.

Which roses can and cannot be rooted

Before you start growing a rose from a bouquet, you need to find out which flowers, in fact, take root with one hundred percent probability, or vice versa - almost certainly will not give roots and will not be suitable for growing in open ground .


So, when choosing a flower for rooting, pay attention to the following:

The rose must be local. That is - domestic. Imported roses (contrary to popular belief, in most cases they are not brought from Holland at all, but from Kenya, Italy and Ecuador) are poorly suited for rooting, since they are grown using special technologies. In addition, southern roses are not zoned in temperate climates. If they give roots, they are unlikely to be able to grow in the open ground of the middle lane in the future.

The rose must be fresh. How to determine the freshness of a flower? Very simple. Elastic, smooth, half-open and in a "shirt" (as the upper greenish petals are called) bud. Clean and light, without brown spots and mucus, the cut of the stem, and the stem itself is even and dense. Be sure to pay attention to the leaves. Fresh leaves are bright green, glossy, without specks. A change in color and lethargy of the leaf indicates that the plant has been cut for a very long time. And certainly you should not root a rose, the flower of which is wrapped with adhesive tape at the base, additionally decorated with packaging film, painted or sprinkled with sparkles. All these embellishments indicate that the plant has lost its freshness and is not suitable for propagation by cuttings.

The rose must have a certain shade. The classic red and white roses are considered to root best. But yellow, purple or tea queens are very difficult to grow, because these varieties are the most capricious.

The rose must be summer. It is believed that the best time of the year to cut a rose from a bouquet is from the end of May to the end of August. Florists do not recommend rooting purchased roses in early spring, autumn and winter: it is too cold, there is little sun, and it is impossible to plant a rooted cutting in open ground.

[!] Pay attention. On average, a rose cutting takes root in a month. Calculate the time so as to land it in open ground before the onset of autumn cold weather.

Some growers do things differently. They cut roses in late autumn and keep the seedlings in a warm room. Thus, the roots appear in winter, and by spring warming the flower is already ready for planting in open ground. This method is not bad, but it requires additional efforts: seedlings must be protected from drafts, additionally illuminated and provided with moisture, without overflowing, but without drying the plant.

There are a few more nuances in choosing a rose for rooting. Pay special attention to the stem of the flower. Too thin, flexible, or vice versa too thick, woody, the ideal option is a pencil-thick stem. In addition, it is advisable to take a plant with a half-blown bud. Such specimens take root better than those whose petals are fully opened.

Step-by-step rooting of a rose from a bouquet

So, the rose is selected. We proceed directly to rooting. Step by step, this process is as follows.

We get the rose from the vase. Lightly dry and start cuttings.

Several cuttings can be cut from one rose. How much - depends on the number of nodes and internodes on the stem.

[!] A node is a place where leaves, buds, shoots are attached. An internode is the part of a stem between adjacent nodes.

In order for the rose to take root faster, flower growers advise cutting cuttings so that each of them has at least two nodes. In extreme cases, you can leave one. Thus, if there are five nodes on the stem of a rose, at least three cuttings will be obtained.

The next step is to cut the cuttings. First, cut off the bottom of the stem. We measure about a centimeter above the second internode from the bottom and cut off the stalk with a sharp knife or scissors. Before the procedure, it is advisable to disinfect the instruments with alcohol.


Now let's take care of the leaves. It is not necessary to leave too many leaves, but it is not worth getting rid of them completely, since the leaf plates are involved in the process of photosynthesis. Usually, the leaves of the lower node are removed completely, leaving a small part of the petiole, and the upper node is cut in half.


The lower part of the cutting must also not be too long, otherwise there is a risk that it will start to rot. Also, as on top, you need to leave no more than a centimeter. In addition, some flower growers advise making the lower cut oblique - at an angle of 45 °.

[!] An oblique cut is needed in order to increase the amount of callus. Callus - cells that form on the cut, from which roots develop. That is, the larger the cut area, the more roots may appear later.

Having received the first cutting, we cut the rest of the stem according to the same principle: leave two nodes, measure about a centimeter before the lower and after the upper node and cut it off. Then we cut off the lower leaves, and shorten the upper ones.


Planting material is ready. It remains to drop him.

In order for the rose to take root faster and take root well, it is advisable to use rooting biostimulants before planting. For example, dip a cutting cut in Kornevin or place it in a Heteroauxin solution for several hours. In extreme cases, if there are no preparations at hand, you can simply sprinkle the cut with ash.

When the weather is warm and comfortable, the prepared cuttings can be planted immediately in open ground. Otherwise, it is desirable to first place them in separate containers - bowls, jars. plastic cups. Cuttings need to be stuck into the soil (purchased soil for roses is suitable in half with perlite, vermiculite or sand, pure perlite) to a depth of about a centimeter (to the bottom node) and press the ground tightly so that there are no air voids. Then water. In general, the substrate should be loose and moist so that roots form faster.

After planting, the seedlings must be covered from above. A piece of non-woven fabric, a plastic bag, or the cut off top of a plastic bottle will work for this. This cover will help retain moisture. We put the cuttings in partial shade, so that direct sunlight does not fall on them, we stock up on patience and do not forget to take care of the roses.

The subsequent care of rose seedlings consists of watering and airing. It is better to water not under the root, but by spraying from a spray bottle. Watering frequency - daily in dry weather or every other day in wet weather. In addition, gradually increase the ventilation time.

First we remove the bags or unscrew the caps from the bottles for a few minutes, then for an hour, and after 2-3 weeks we completely remove the top cover from the cuttings.

On average, cuttings give roots a month after planting. When the root shoots are strong enough (grow at least 3-5 centimeters), roses can be planted in open ground.

[!] Some types of roses, when cuttings, without roots, grow foliage. Such seedlings must not be touched. Wait until the roots appear and only then plant in a permanent place.

If roses are planted directly in open ground, they must also be covered from above. Such a mini-greenhouse will protect tender sprouts from cold, gusts of wind and excessive moisture.

It is interesting that some gardeners prefer a completely different, at first glance strange, way of rooting the queen of flowers. They plant a cutting without roots in late autumn directly into the ground and claim that frost and snow harden the seedling, which begins to grow rapidly in spring. As an experiment, you can try this method of propagating purchased roses.

Unusual ways of rooting roses: in potatoes and newspaper (burrito method)

Since gardeners are curious and experimental people, they have come up with several exotic ways to root rose cuttings. For example, in potato tubers.


At first glance, the technique is simple. First, a flower stalk is prepared (in the same way as when germinating in the ground), then a potato tuber. The tuber must be thoroughly washed to prevent germination, cut out all the eyes and soak for several minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

When both the rose and the potato are prepared, a hole is cut in the tuber according to the diameter of the cutting, about 2 cm deep. Insert the flower seedling there and wait for the roots to appear. It is believed that the potato tuber has a lot of nutrients that will help the rose to take root faster.

In addition, flower growers are captivated by the opportunity to plant a flower in the ground without removing it from the potato and thus without injuring the tender young roots.

In fact, judging by the opinions of those who dared to try this exotic method, the rose does not take root in potatoes. If you do not cut out the eyes, the roots will give the potato itself, but the flower itself will not. If seedlings are dear to you, it’s better not to experiment and plant a rose traditionally - in the ground.

Another unusual method of rooting a rose from a bouquet is called "burrito" in the newspaper. This name was not chosen by chance - cuttings wrapped in newspaper resemble a famous Mexican dish. This method consists in the following.

We choose flowers with a thick strong stem and proceed to reproduction. We cut the rose by cuttings - we cut the stem into pieces with a length of at least 15 (and preferably 20) cm. We make the lower cut oblique, almost immediately behind the petiole, the upper one is straight, between two petioles. Then we completely remove the leaves from the cuttings, leaving only the thorns. Carefully inspect the chopped stems. If there is blackening or other spots, we reject it, leaving only the healthiest and strongest specimens.


After preparing the rose, we begin the rooting procedure according to the “burrito” method. We take a sheet of newspaper or any other thin paper (napkins, paper towels, toilet paper), put the cuttings on it and wrap it as if the newspaper is pita bread, and the stems are the filling. That is, we completely wrap the cuttings with paper. If there are a lot of cuttings, we divide them into parts of 5-6 pieces and wrap each part separately.

When the envelopes are ready, we moisten them with plenty of water, and then wrap them tightly with polyethylene (cut bag, cling film), after which we place them in a dark, cool (15-17 °C) place.

[!] If the temperature is too high, the moisture can quickly evaporate and the cuttings will not root. At low temperatures, mold and mildew may develop.

After approximately 2.5 weeks, the burritos should be taken out, unwrapped and assessed for the condition of the cuttings.

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