How to care for pothos
Plant Care & Growing Guide
This low-maintenance houseplant is easy to grow and propagate
By
Marie Iannotti
Marie Iannotti
Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.
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Updated on 07/31/22
Reviewed by
Debra LaGattuta
Reviewed by Debra LaGattuta
Debra LaGattuta is a gardening expert with three decades of experience in perennial and flowering plants, container gardening, and raised bed vegetable gardening. She is a Master Gardener and lead gardener in a Plant-A-Row, which is a program that offers thousands of pounds of organically-grown vegetables to local food banks. Debra is a member of The Spruce Gardening and Plant Care Review Board.
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Fact checked by
Sarah Scott
Fact checked by Sarah Scott
Sarah Scott is a fact-checker and researcher who has worked in the custom home building industry in sales, marketing, and design.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
In This Article
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Care
-
Types
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Propagating
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Common Pests
-
FAQ
Pothos is arguably one of the easiest houseplants to grow, even if you're someone who forgets to water your plants often enough. This trailing vine, native to the Solomon Islands in the South Pacific, has pointed, heart-shaped green leaves that are sometimes variegated with white, yellow, or pale green striations.
Pothos is a good indoor plant year-round and will grow quickly, often adding between 12 to 18 inches of length in a month. Be aware that pothos plants are toxic to pets.
| Common Name | Pothos, Golden Pothos, Devil's Vine, Devil's Ivy |
| Botanical Name | Epipremnum aureum |
| Family | Araceae |
| Plant Type | Vine |
| Mature Size | 20–40 ft. long, 3–6 ft. wide |
| Sun Exposure | Full sun, partial shade |
| Soil Type | Moist but well-drained |
| Soil pH | Neutral to slightly acidic |
| Bloom Time | Rarely flowers |
| Flower Color | Gold/Yellow, Purple/Lavender |
| Hardiness Zones | 10–12 (USDA) |
| Native Areas | South Pacific |
| Toxicity | All parts of this plant are toxic to dogs and cats |
Watch Now: How to Easily Grow and Care for Pothos
Pothos Care
Pothos vines do not cling to trellises and supports on their own (like ivy might), but they can be trained onto supports to give the appearance of twining.
As indoor plants, it is common to see pothos specimens grow to 30 feet long, though most are kept at a much shorter, neater length. If you choose to let your pothos grow into a long vine, it can be secured on hooks to trail along walls and over window frames. Vines left to grow on their own can get very tangled, so shake them loose every now and then to keep them from becoming a tangled mess.
While pothos likes bright, indirect light, it can also thrive in low-light areas or those with only fluorescent lighting, making it an excellent option for offices and dorm rooms.
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The Spruce / Melina Hammer
The Spruce / Jordan Provost
The Spruce / Jordan Provost
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The Spruce / Margot Cavin
Light
Pothos likes sun or shade, but you need to watch if it's in too much of either one. When grown indoors, pothos prefers bright but indirect light.
Variegated plants sometimes lose their leaf pattern and revert to all-green foliage if they don't receive enough light. Moving them to brighter conditions usually restores the variegation. Suddenly pale-looking leaves mean the plant is receiving too much sun.
Soil
Pothos plants thrive in ordinary, well-draining potting soil that can be on the dry side or even rocky. Pothos thrives in a soil pH ranging from 6.1 to 6.8 on the scale. It is tolerant of a range of conditions, from neutral to slightly acidic.
Water
A pothos plant likes to have its soil dry out completely between waterings. If left in continually damp soil, the plant's roots will rot. Black spots on the leaves (or the sudden collapse of the plant) indicate that the soil has been kept too wet. The plant will indicate when it needs water. When it starts to droop, it needs water. However, don’t wait until the leaves start to shrivel or the plant will lose some leaves. Dry, brown edges mean the plant was kept dry for too long.
Temperature and Humidity
Pothos should be kept in temperatures that are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, though they most appreciate a common room temperature that hovers between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Additionally, pothos plants like high humidity. You can increase humidity around the plant by keeping it in a typically humid area of the home, such as a kitchen or bathroom. Still, the plant is very tolerant and can thrive even in low humidity environments, so there's no need to invest in a humidifier.
Fertilizer
Pothos plants are not heavy feeders. But because there are typically no nutrients in most potting soils, you can feed the plant bi-monthly except when dormant in Winter with any balanced houseplant fertilizer to increase nutrition.
Types of Pothos
Pothos hybrids have been developed with many different types of leaf variegation, with white, yellow, or light green patches interrupting the predominant deep green leaves.
Some cultivars have solid light green leaves. Some recommended pothos varieties include:
- 'Marble Queen': A varietal with an exceptionally attractive white-and-green variegated pattern. It requires more light than most pothos to maintain its unique coloring.
- 'Pearls and Jade': This varietal is an avid white and green climber, but instead of striping, the colors of grey, green and white show boldly around the perimeter of the leaves.
- 'Neon': A bright chartreuse variety, this pothos need less light and is great for brightening up a dark area in your home.
- 'Silver Satin': This varietal has thick gray-green leaves with silver splotches. It is very tolerant of drought and low-light conditions.
Potting and Repotting Pothos
Eventually, your pothos will become pot-bound. When the leaves droop, no matter how much or how often you water them, drooping is a sure sign that roots have probably filled the pot and there is no room to grow.
Carefully lift the plant out of its pot and check to see if this is the problem. You might be able to see roots growing out of the drainage holes. When the plant has reached this stage, you can re-pot it into a container that is one or two sizes larger in diameter and depth and filled with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Pothos
Pothos propagation is easy when it's done using stem cuttings. Pothos cuttings like to propagate in water at first. Here are the steps to take:
- Using a sterile, sharp cutting tool, choose a healthy stem with at least three leaves, and cut it at an angle about a half-inch or inch below the lowest leaf.
- Remove the lowest leaf from the stem (you don't need to remove the other leaves).
- Place the stem in a vase or jar of water, but do not let the remaining leaves touch the water.
- Once the cutting has sprouted new roots that are several inches long, likely over the course of a few weeks, transplant it into a pot with potting soil as soon as possible so it can begin to develop a strong root system.
- Put the pot in a spot with bright indirect light and keep the soil moist but not wet.
Common Pests
Pothos is usually pest-free. However, the plant can occasionally become infested with mealybugs. A simple insecticidal soap controls the pests, but the easiest method is to simply dab the insects with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab.
Article Sources
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Golden Pothos. Animal Poison Control Center.
POTHOS (EPIPREMNUM AUREUM) DISEASES: IDENTIFICATION AND CONTROL IN COMMERCIAL GREENHOUSE PRODUCTION. University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Epipremnum aureum. Missouri Botanical Garden.
Care & Growing Guide for Pothos Plants
The lush foliage of this carefree houseplant adds instant beauty to your home or office By Janet Loughrey, Garden Writer & Photographer
Beautifall™ Marble Queen pothos.
Photo by: Proven Winners
One of the easiest indoor plants to grow, pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is often overlooked in favor of showier plants such as orchids. Though lacking blooms, this tropical vine—similar to philodendron—comes in an array of foliage colors and patterns that appeal to a wide range of tastes and decors. Nearly foolproof even for beginners, pothos is forgiving of neglect, virtually pest- and disease-free, and is a great low-light indoor plant perfect for darker rooms and offices.
The long stems trail or climb by aerial roots that adhere to surfaces, making this a versatile choice for hanging baskets, plant stands, and bookshelves. Best of all, pothos is one of the top houseplants for improving indoor air quality, making home and office environments cleaner.
On this page: Basics | Growing Tips | Care | Pothos Pictures | Toubleshooting | Display Ideas
POTHOS BASICS
Botanical name:
Epipremnum aureum
Common names:
Devil’s vine, Ceylon creeper, taro vine, ivy arum, silver vine, and Solomon Islands ivy.
Origin:
Native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia and Western Pacific islands.
Zones:
USDA Zones 10-12. Plants can be grown outdoors in frost-free regions of Florida and California.
Care level:
Easy.
Light requirements:
Bright indirect light is ideal, but plants are tolerant of low light and fluorescent lighting. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn or discolor foliage.
Growth rate:
Slow to fast depending on variety. More variegation in the leaves tends to slow growth.
Foliage:
Shiny leaves are 4-12 inches long, heart- or lance-shaped, in colors of green, chartreuse, blue, or variegated patterns.
Flowers:
Small, white, hooded flowers are insignificant, occurring on mature plants in their native habitat. Plants will not flower in the average home environment.
Habit and size:
Vining, trailing habit, 6-10 feet long; can grow as long as 30-50 feet in their native habitat.
Toxicity:
All parts of the plant are mildly to moderately poisonous if ingested by pets or children.
See more Common Poisonous Plants for Dogs and Cats.
Pothos lookalikes:
The leaves can look nearly identical to heart-leaf philodendron. Pothos has thicker, more textural leaves, while those of philodendron tend to be darker, smoother, and less likely to be variegated. The leaf stem of pothos has a slight groove, while those of philodendron are smooth. Philodendron foliage is distinctly heart shaped, while pothos leaves can be asymmetrical. They both have similar growing conditions and care requirements.
Pothos is also related to common garden plants such as anthurium, caladium, and calla lily.
POTHOS GROWING TIPS
Where to grow:
Site near a window that receives bright indirect light and avoid cold drafts.
Temperature and humidity:
Plants should be kept at temperatures above 50 degrees F, with ideal temperature range between 60-80 degrees F. Pothos prefers high humidity similar to its native habitat, but is tolerant of average or dry air.
Plants will benefit from supplemental air moisture such as misting or a room humidifier during winter when indoor air is drier.
Soil type:
Grow in a high quality, well-draining potting mix. Pothos prefers a slightly acidic pH of 6.1 to 6.5, but is tolerant of values slightly above or below.
Pot requirements:
Plant in a container 1-2 inches wider than the root ball with adequate drainage holes.
Propagation:
Pothos is easily propagated through stem cuttings. Cut stems 6 inches long just below a leaf node and place in water. Roots will develop over a month or two. Change water every 2-3 weeks. Plant well-rooted cuttings in fresh potting soil. Grow multiple stems in the same pot for the lushest growth.
Plants can also be propagated through division. Gently cut the root ball into sections and repot in fresh soil, leaving 1-2 inches of space around the root ball.
POTHOS CARE
Watering:
Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings; overwatering can cause root rot.
Discard excess water from the saucer underneath the pot so that plants are not sitting in water.
Fertilizing:
Pothos are light feeders. Apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer every 1-3 months to keep plants looking healthy.
Pruning:
Plants can be kept more compact or allowed to sprawl. Trim back long runners to keep plants full and bushy. Bare stems can be cut back to soil level to encourage new branches to sprout. For a vining habit, allow plants to grow naturally.
Cleaning:
Wipe leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks to keep foliage looking fresh.
Repotting:
If plants become droopy no matter how much they’re watered, this can be a sign of being rootbound. Remove the plant from its container; if roots appear crowded and are circling tightly, then it’s time to repot. Place in a new container 1-2 inches wider in fresh potting soil.
POTHOS VARIETIES
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Beautifall™ Marble Queen pothos. Photo by: Proven Winners
'Marble Queen'
Epipremnum aureum
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Size: Trails up to 10 feet, up to 2 feet wide
Color: Mottled dark green with yellow and white
This beautifully variegated form is slower growing due to a lack of chlorophyll because of the lighter coloring.
Place in brighter light to encourage more vigorous growth. Leaves are highly variable, depending on the branch taken from the mother plant.
Beautifall™ Jade pothos. Photo by: Proven Winners
Jade
Epipremnum aureum
More Info & Find a Local leafjoy™ Retailer
Size: Trails up to 9 feet
Color: Medium to deep green
A reliable grower, Jade is another easy-to-grow houseplant and is very tolerable of varying light conditions. Allow to trail or support with a moss pole.
Beautifall™ N'Joy pothos. Photo by: Proven Winners
N'Joy
Epipremnum aureum
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Size: Trails up to 9 feet
Color: Green centers with cream surrounding
This low-stress houseplant has beautiful green and cream variegated leaves, bringing brightness and interest with it wherever it goes.
Photo by: Myimagine / Shutterstock
Golden Pothos
Epipremnum aureum
Size: Trails 5 to 10 feet, up to 2 feet wide
Color: Medium-dark green leaves with irregular creamy gold splotches.
The most common variety and easiest to grow, the heart-shaped leaves closely resemble philodendron. Place in medium indirect light to retain best color. May be somewhat invasive if grown outdoors in warmer regions such as southern Florida.
Beautifall™ Cebu Blue pothos. Photo by: Proven Winners
Cebu Blue
Epipremnum pinnatum
More Info & Find a Local leafjoy™ Retailer
Size: Trails up to 10 feet, up to 2 feet wide
Color: Blue-green foliage
The unique blue-green foliage makes this a highly sought after houseplant. While still easy to care for like its more common cousins, this variety prefers medium to bright indirect light and does not do well in lower light levels.
Photo by: DhineshRaj / Shutterstock
'Neon'
Epipremnum aureum
Size: Trails 6 to 10 feet, can grow longer
Color: Foliage is chartreuse
Named for the brightly colored leaves which are distinctly heart-shaped, ‘Neon’ can be used to brighten a dark space.
Leaf color is best in medium indirect light. If the light source is too dim, foliage will fade to green. New growth tends to be brighter.
Photo by: Firn / Shutterstock
'Manjula'
Epipremnum aureum
Size: Trails 6 to 10 feet, can grow longer
Color: Foliage is white with splotches of cream, silver, yellow-green and blue-green
A cross between ‘Marble Queen’ and ‘N’Joy’, the heart-shaped leaves are wider than other varieties, with wavy edges that won’t lay flat. Leaves are highly variable. Because there is less chlorophyll in the leaves due to the mostly-white coloring, growth is slower. Place in brighter light to increase growth rate.
See more Beautifall™ pothos plants from the leafjoy™ line from Proven Winners.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Pothos have few insect or disease problems. Here are some things to look for:
- Brown or yellow leaves: If older leaves are brown or yellow while new growth looks fine, this can be an indication of underwatering.
Trim back affected stems to the base of the plant to encourage new growth and increase watering. - Loss of foliage color: Fading color is likely due to low light. Move to a brighter location.
- Pale or brown leaves: This may be a sign that plants are getting too much light. Move to a location with less light.
- Blackened leaves or stems or sudden plant collapse: Possibly a sign of overwatering and root rot. Cut off affected branches. Allow soil to completely dry out and new roots to develop. In severe cases, plants may not recover.
- Shriveled, yellow, wilted or brown edges on leaves: This can be a sign of underwatering. Increase watering as needed.
- Blackened leaves and little or no growth: Can be a result of cold temperatures. Move plants to a warmer location and trim off affected growth. The roots should be fine and push out new growth.
- Pests: Can include mealybugs or scale.
Wipe affected areas with a swab or cotton ball dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol, or apply insecticidal soap. If soil stays too wet over a period of time, it may attract fungus gnats. Allow soil to dry out between waterings to deter gnats. (See more on common houseplant pests.)
DISPLAY IDEAS
- Pothos can be kept compact and bushy, or allowed to develop a trailing habit. How best to display your pothos depends on how it is trained.
- Grow a trailing plant in a hanging basket and allow the foliage to cascade for an elegant display. Place in a bedroom, living room or office to enjoy the benefits of air purification. (See more indoor hanging plants)
- Train a vining form up a vertical support such as driftwood, bark, a decorative trellis or pole for a natural rain forest effect.
- Allow a vining form to sprawl horizontally along a table top, mantelpiece or bookshelf for a softening, living touch.
- Long runners can be trained along a wall or window frame, the branches secured with small cup hooks.
This can give the appearance of integrating the indoors with nature. - Feature a bushy type in a decorative pot as a living accent on a coffee table, end table, office desk or plant stand. Use a slower growing variegated form to reduce the need for pruning.
- Place a trailing or bushy form on a shelf or hanger in a bathroom where it will thrive on the increased humidity and warmth from showers and baths.
- Display a green or slightly variegated form that needs less light on your office desk to lift your mood during the work day.
- Plant a green variety that tolerates low light in a brightly colored decorative pot. Place in a dull, drab corner of the house to liven up the space.
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home care, photos, types, flowers, reproduction features Selo.Guru - an Internet portal about agriculture
Is it possible to keep "Scindapsus" (Potos) at home? Lighting temperature grow stems up to 5 meters long.
Its bright green leaves are adorned with yellowish strokes and stripes.
The photo shows the flower "Golden Scindapsus" (Pothos) when properly cared for at home:
"Painted Scindapsus" is no different from Scindapsus the Golden.
The photo shows the flower "Scindapsus Painted" (Pothos) with proper care at home:
Home care
Is it possible to keep "Scindapsus" (Potos) at home?
Attention! Leaves and stems of "Scindapsus" are poisonous, like all members of the aroid family.
Therefore, the creeper should not be placed where it can be reached by pets and small children.
In addition, there is a belief of unclear origin, referring this plant to the category of "husbands", as if representatives of the stronger sex surviving from the house.
In reality, of course, men, when they are about to leave, do so for much more fundamental reasons than a vine in a pot.
"Scindapsus", meanwhile, grow well in shady corners, climb vertical supports, willingly branch, forming lush ampelous garlands, and easily propagate vegetatively.
Lighting
This vine does not even belong to shade-tolerant, but to shade-loving plants. The most suitable lighting for it is provided by the windows of northern directions.
"Scindapsus" can do without the sun at all - a white light lamp is enough for them , working 12 hours a day. True, with a lack of lighting, the variegation of the leaves disappears - picturesque stripes and spots are replaced by an even green color.
Temperature
Optimum temperature for spring and summer is from 22 to 24ºС , during the winter season the temperature can drop to 16-18 degrees.
The plant must be protected from drafts and temperature fluctuations.
Attention! A sharp drop in temperature to +12ºС is critically dangerous.
Container and soil
The root system of the creeper develops more in breadth than in depth , so a low capacity is chosen for it.
It can be wide enough to be planted with cuttings to the mother plant and form a lush growth of young shoots.
In order to prevent stagnation of moisture, which is detrimental to Scindapsus, the bottom must necessarily have a drainage hole.
The plant needs a neutral or slightly acidic, sufficiently fertile and loose soil.
A universal purchased soil with the addition of perlite or one of the following mixtures is suitable:
- three parts of sod land with one part of leaf and the same amount of sand;
- equal amounts of leafy soil, peat, humus and sand, additionally loosened with perlite.
Planting and transplanting
Be sure to lay a drainage layer of small stones, expanded clay or ceramic cullet on the bottom of the pot. Then pour a layer of prepared soil, place straightened liana roots on top of it and, compacting from time to time, supplement the container with an earthen mixture. Water the planted plant.
The frequency of replanting depends on the age of the vine. Young "Scindapsus" are transplanted annually in the spring. Mature specimens - in a year or two.
Watering and air humidity
Excess moisture in the soil is especially harmful to this plant.
Therefore, regular watering with settled water at room temperature is carried out on the dried top layer of soil, and the moisture accumulated in the pan is drained.
The average frequency of watering in spring and summer is from two to three times a week, in winter - once or twice a week.
Tropical liana needs high humidity, which is provided by spraying soft water 1-2 times a day, as well as placing a container with a plant on a pallet with wet pebbles or expanded clay.
Top dressing
Scindapsus, which develops intensively in spring and summer, needs top dressing with a liquid mineral complex every two to three weeks.
In winter, large plants with long stems should also be fed once a month.
Pruning
At home, the growth rate of the stems of this creeper reaches a meter per year, and without formative pruning, any vertical support quickly becomes small for it.
Pinching and pruning in spring and summer stimulates branching, which makes Scindapsus an attractive ampelous bush or forms dense leafy "walls" of the desired size.
Pruning waste can be used for vegetative propagation.
Reproduction
In the practice of home plant growing, "Scindapsus" are propagated exclusively by vegetative - apical and stem cuttings.
Cut off the tops of shoots with two or three leaves, or harvest parts of the stem with the same number of leaves. Apply preliminary water rooting or immediately plant cuttings in a mixture of equal amounts of sand and peat.
Cover the planting with transparent polyethylene, ventilate, spray, keep the soil substrate moist and keep at a temperature of 20-22ºС. The root system of seedlings develops within two to three weeks.
Application
In indoor culture, "Scindapsus" are indispensable landscapers in dimly lit rooms.
Their vigorous growth can be guided by vertical supports and shaped by targeted pruning to produce hardy and viable ampelous plants.
Interesting! These creepers actively absorb volatile formaldehyde compounds, purifying the air from harmful impurities.
Possible problems and solutions
Leaves turn yellow and fall , the stems rot with excess moisture in the soil, especially in winter, in combination with low temperatures. It is required to optimize the temperature and humidity conditions.
Leaf tips tuck turn brown when the air is not humid enough. The plant needs regular spraying.
Sluggish curled leaves , areas of decay on the stems - a consequence of keeping at a temperature of 12 degrees and below. "Scindapsus" needs a warmer room. .
Yellowing or leaf fall is caused by insufficient feeding , a sharp decrease in light, drafts. It is necessary to optimize the conditions of detention and feed the plant.
Brown spots on the leaves of and along the edges of the leaf blades occur due to insufficient watering during the growth period. The soil should not be waterlogged, but, at the same time, its overdrying is unacceptable.
Color fading , the replacement of green areas with light, “burned out” occurs with excessive sunlight. It is necessary to rearrange the plant in a more shady place.
Small leaves that lose their variegation , elongated shoots develop when there is a lack of light. Even the shade-loving "Scindapsus" requires lighting of the required intensity and duration.
Needs refurbishment or relighting.
Diseases and pests
Under optimal conditions, the plant is practically not affected by diseases.
Low temperatures combined with high humidity promote stem and root rot.
If these processes have gone far, you need to prepare cuttings from healthy parts of the vine and root them.
The rest of the plant and soil must be disposed of, and then the empty pot should be thoroughly disinfected.
The first step is to remove insects with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and treat the plant with soapy water.
However, only systemic insecticides applied according to the instructions will permanently destroy pests.
Lianas often become an interior decoration. You can study photos and read about the features of growing such varieties as the lovely Ceropegia Sanderson, fluffy Cyanotis, spectacular Rafidophora, magnificent Aeschinanthus, indoor Cissus grapes, unpretentious Ruellia, charming Saxifrage, amazing Reo and beautiful Thunbergia, in separate articles on our website.
"Scindapsus" (Potos) is an unpretentious indoor plant that can grow intensively in low light and at the same time absorb harmful volatile impurities from the air. Simple care and regular pruning form decorative leafy ampelous bushes or "mats" of vertical gardening from tropical vines.
What is pothos care?
Image - Wikimedia / Joydeep
Pothos is a climbing wreath that is widely used for interior decoration: it has large, green and persistent leaves. In addition, it usually does not have pests or diseases, and this plant does not require special care. All this makes it one of the most interesting for both beginners and experts.
Although he is tropical, he is very adaptable, being able to live in the house for a long time. So, below we will explain that pothos care .
Index
- 1 How to take care of sweat?
- 1.1 Light and humidity
- 1.
2 irrigation - 1.3 Pot and soil
- 1.4 subscriber
- 1.5 Changing the pot
- 2 Pot with yellow leaves?
How to take care of sweat?
If you dare to have a poto plant in your house, you should know how to care for it in order to keep it. Thus, you will make a great purchase:
Light and humidity
Bring pothos into a room with windows. needs a lot of light to grow, so it is important that the place where we are going to grow it is suitable for it. Similarly, it must be kept away from windows and from areas where light is reflected, otherwise its leaves will burn due to the so-called magnifying glass effect.
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Another important point is the humidity of the environment. When it is very low, the plant begins to dry out; because is interested in knowing the degree of humidity inside the house in order to know if we should act or not.
For example, if you live, like me, on an island, or are near this object or a river, it is normal for the indicated humidity to be high and therefore you will not need to do anything; but if you are more withdrawn, then you will have to do the following:
- In summer, spray its leaves with rain or distilled water daily once or twice a day.
- During the rest of the year, it is best to place containers of water around the pot to keep the leaves in good condition.
irrigation
How to water pothos? Always use good water, i.e. rain water or water suitable for human consumption. . In many places in Spain, what comes out of the tap is of poor quality with a high lime content, so it should not be used for irrigation unless it is boiled and allowed to cool before use.
The frequency will change throughout the year: it will be higher in summer and lower in winter. Because, during the hot months, water about every 3 days , and the rest XNUMX-XNUMX times a week.
Pot and soil
The pot must have holes in the base. . It does not matter if it is made of plastic or dirt, but it is important that the water that has not been absorbed can come out. Thus, the roots will remain intact, since the risk of rotting is eliminated. It also needs to be the right size for it to grow. In this sense, if the "old" pot had a diameter of 10 centimeters, the new one should be 5-7 centimeters larger both in width and in height.
As for the ground, can be poured with the universal substrate (available here) . But we recommend that you put a layer of clay (available here) or volcanic clay in advance. So the drainage will be even better.
subscriber
Another important issue is the subscriber. This should be done throughout the growing season of the plant. , that is, in all months of its growth, coinciding with spring and summer. Thanks to this, it will be possible to grow at a good pace, become healthier and, therefore, live longer.
There are several types of fertilizers and fertilizers, we recommend using guano or algae extract (sold here) if you choose natural products or fertilizers for green plants (sold here). Of course, follow the instructions on the package so that there are no problems with overdose. These products can be very helpful when used correctly, but they also cause a lot of problems when you add more than what the manufacturer says; in fact, the roots may be useless.
Pot change
Repotting will be done in the spring, every 2 or 3 years or so. . You should see if the roots appear through the holes in the pot, in which case change it to a larger one. If you have a mentor, we recommend untangling the plant, removing it, and when it has been transplanted, plant it again.
It can also be used to trim dry leaves and/or stems with clean scissors. You have to get down to business to make it look nice.
A pot of yellow leaves: what's the matter?
This is a common problem.
If your plant starts to develop yellow leaves, it may be thirsty, too much water, or it's okay. How do you know?
- Lack of water : If your plant is thirsty, you will see that the new leaves turn yellow quickly. These are the ones farthest from the roots, the ones that absorb water, which is then carried through the vessels (or if you like "veins") to all its parts. But with insufficient fluid, the first symptoms appear in younger foliage. In addition, you will also notice dry land.
- Excess water : When you are thirsty, the opposite happens: in this case, the oldest leaves will not tolerate it well, because they will get it first. The soil will look very wet and may even have greenery or mold.
- Nothing happened : The leaves have a limited lifespan, so we see yellow leaves from time to time - this is normal. But I repeat: some, not many. If the plant is not doing well, we will see a lot of bad looking leaves.
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