How to care for a fuchsia plant
Growing and caring for Fuchsias - Master Gardeners - MCBG Corp. 2022
Above: Fuchsia boliviana 'Alba' at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens
Here on the North Coast, fuchsias enjoy a nearly perfect climate. The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens maintains a collection of both species and hybrids. Over 60 fuchsias have been planted in the Woodland Garden. There is also a lovely display of trailing and standard fuchsias in the Display House. You can visit and enjoy the fuchsias any time from summer to late fall, even in winter if the weather is mild.
Planting
Although fuchsias are considered shade plants, they need lots of light to grow and bloom. Choose a location outdoors where the plants receive direct morning sun or filtered sun all day. The warmer the climate, the more shade will be necessary. Fuchsias are at their best where the summer days stay below 85 degrees F. and the nights are cool. In hot and dry climates, the plants grow poorly and the flower size shrinks. Growers in those areas must provide good shade and wind protection and install automatic misting systems. Prolonged sub-freezing temperatures damage the majority of fuchsias. Hardy cultivars can survive temperatures in the teens if they are well established in the ground, have been planted deep, and have been given a heavy layer of mulch. They will freeze to the ground and re-sprout from the roots. Container plants will have to be moved under shelter.
Red- and orange-flowered varieties take full sun near the ocean. White and pastel hanging basket varieties must be shaded. Some small flowered pot plant varieties will also grow in a very bright window, but usually do not do as well as outside, especially on the West Coast.
If there seems to be too much stem between sets of leaves, move the fuchsia to more light. Turning the plants a quarter turn on a regular basis will also make them more symmetrical. If shade in your yard comes from trees, be careful where you place the fuchsias until the trees have leafed out completely.
Soil
Plant fuchsias in humus-rich soil in the garden or use a light organic planter mix in containers with perfect drainage. Wooden containers or fiber pots keep the roots cool and allow the plant to "breathe." Clay pots do the same but dry out faster.
Watering
Fuchsias like their roots moist, but not soggy wet. Water when the surface of the growing medium becomes dry. A container plant in full bloom needs water once a day or possibly twice in very warm and dry weather. Do not water a wilted plant in the midday heat if the soil is still wet. You may suffocate the roots! Mist the leaves to reduce surface temperatures and move the plant to a cooler location.
Fertilizing
How you care for your fuchsias in March and April will affect how well they grow and blossom in the summer. Start in spring with a regular fertilizing schedule, beginning with a light application each week. A good rule of thumb to use is to mix a balanced water soluble fertilizer half-strength and feed fuchsias each week.
You can switch to a "bloom" formula of fertilizer when the plants are setting buds, but do not cut out the nitrogen altogether since fuchsias continue to grow while they are blooming. Remember that a container plant needs regular feeding because there is little soil to hold nutrients and the frequent watering leaches them out faster. In cold winter areas, withhold fertilizer in the fall to harden plants off before they go dormant for the winter. Most fuchsias need long days to flower. Some varieties, notably the F. triphylla hybrids, can be in bloom all year long if the climate is mild.
Pests and Diseases
In hot climates and for greenhouse growers, white fly can be extremely problematic. Whitefly populations in the early stages of population development can be held down by a vigilant program of removing infested leaves, vacuuming adults, or hosing down (syringing) with water sprays. Insecticidal soaps or oils such as neem oil may reduce but not eliminate populations.
Don't miss the underside of the leaves. Test all sprays first; the tender leaves and flowers are easily burned. Also be aware of fuchsia gall mite, a microscopic mite that sucks the plant juices and injects a poison that causes the fuchsia to produce gnarled and crippled growth, similar to peach leaf curl. Stems, leaves, and flowers swell and become hairy and galled. Within these galls, the mites live and breed, protected from predators. See below for a detailed review of treatment.
Rust is a cool weather disease and usually at its worst in the fall. Provide plants with a lot of room for air movement. Pick off affected leaves and destroy them, and avoid overhead watering, which favors spore germination. Give your plants more sun. Grow varieties that are less rust prone. Orange-flowered varieties tend to be the first to rust.
Pruning and Maintenance
Prune heavily in late winter or early spring, after the danger of frost is past. On the North Coast, it is recommended that pruning be done by mid February.
Remove dead wood and most of the previous year's growth for upright fuchsias. Leave only a few strong vertical canes. The pruned branches of a hanging basket should ideally look like the spokes of a wagon wheel. Roots of container plants may also be pruned at this time.
Start feeding as soon as green growth appears. Pinch out growing tips after two sets of leaves are formed. Snipping out the new leaves on the end of each branch makes two new branches grow where there was one. Repeated pinching produces bushier plants and more blooms. Flowers will open six to eight weeks after pinching is stopped. Pick off berries to prolong the blooming season.
Training
Fuchsias can be trained to grow as a bush, tree, basket, wall-pocket, espalier, or even bonsai. To learn which varieties are best suited for which form and how to do it, contact the fuchsia society. See below for detailed information on training a fuchsia standard.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
For more information on fuchsias, see the website for the American Fuchsia Society at www.
americanfuchsiasociety.org.
Learn more about the Fuchsia Collection at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens.
Fuchsia Growing Tips For Success
Home › Ornamental Gardens › Flowers › Fuchsia
Fuchsia
By: Caroline Bloomfield
Image by liuyushan
Beautiful, delicate fuchsias come in thousands of varieties and colors, with multi-colored blossoms that hang and droop beautifully from baskets, planters, and pots. Often trellised in the garden, fuchsia plants can be bushy or vining and trailing.
Wild fuchsias, native to Central and South America, grow profusely in the Andes where temperatures are cool, and the air is moist. Fuchsias were named after a 16th century German botanist – Leonard Fuchs. They don’t require constant maintenance, but do plan on paying attention to them. Read on for more fuchsia growing tips.
Fuchsia Growing Tips
If you live in zones 6 or 7 and are growing fuchsia in your garden, you’ve probably chosen a “hardy” variety.
Good fuchsia plant care entails planting them in soil with a pH level of 6 to 7. However, they’re fairly adaptable in many kinds of soil, so long as it drains well and quickly. Fuchsia roots don’t like to sit in water.
Fuchsias love lots of filtered light but are particularly intolerant of heat. Making sure your fuchsia baskets or planters have plenty of dappled shade and daytime temperatures well below 80 degrees F. (27 C.) will encourage a healthy bloom. Fuchsias also prefer cooler nighttime temperatures. If you’re expecting a period of hot summer weather, it’s good to have a backup plan for sheltering your fuchsia plants to support their blooming activity through the summer.
If you’re growing fuchsias indoors, a window with bright, indirect sunlight works best. However, they do like humidity and will languish if the air is too dry, whether indoors or out. Fuchsia blossoms are a wonderful treat for pollinators, so expect plenty of bees and hummers if you’re growing them outside.
Care of Fuchsias
Fuchsias will thrive and blossom more abundantly if they’re pinched back as new growth appears. When a branch has finished blooming, clip it back with clean garden shears.
You can fertilize fuchsias every couple of weeks in spring and summer, but begin to taper off feeding as fall approaches. Diluted fish emulsion works beautifully.
If you live in zones 10 or 11, your fuchsia may behave as a perennial, but in colder zones you may need to replant in spring or move your plants indoors for the winter. Snip off any dead leaves and stems and keep your plant in a cool dark environment, watering only every third or fourth week throughout the dormant period. It won’t look great, but in early spring with some fresh sunlight, water, and food, it should spring back to life.
Fuchsia plants can be subject to various fungal infections and viral diseases. Be sure to keep the area around your fuchsias free from dead leaves, stems, and other materials and debris.
Watch for problems that might develop at the junctures of stem and leaf, and treat the plants with neem oil and insecticidal soap when necessary. You may want to introduce some beneficial insects to keep the bad ones away.
Fuchsias are worth the time it takes to maintain a proper environment for them. Care of fuchsias is not necessarily low maintenance, but with a little special attention their beauty is worth a bit of extra effort.
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Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: indoor plants reprinted: Last amendments:
Content
- Listen to Article
- Planting and Care for Fuchsia
- Botanical description
- Care for homemade fuchsia
- Conditions for growing0007
- How to plant and grow fuchsia at home?
- How to care for this plant?
- How to make fuchsia bloom?
Read about it in our article.
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Planting and caring for fuchsia
- Flowering: in spring.
- Lighting: in the morning - bright diffused light, in the afternoon - partial shade (east or west windowsill).
- Temperature: in summer - no more than 20 ˚C, in winter - no more than 15 ˚C.
- Watering: during the growth period - regular, but moderate, after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, water 1-2 times a month.
- Humidity: In hot, dry weather, spray the leaves with warm water or place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles.
- Top dressing: from March once every 10 days with fertilizer for flowering indoor plants. In winter, feeding is stopped.
- Pruning: twice a year: after growing season (early October) and in winter (early January).
- Dormant period: late autumn and winter.
- Transplant: annually in the spring.
- Propagation: seeds and cuttings.
- Pests: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites.
- Diseases: rust, powdery mildew, root rot.
Read more about the cultivation of fuchsia below.
Fuchsia (Latin Fuchsia) is a genus of perennials of the Cypriot family, numbering about 100 species. In nature, the fuchsia flower is found in South and Central America, as well as in New Zealand, and is an evergreen shrub. The fuchsia plant got its name in honor of one of the "fathers of botany" Leonhard von Fuchs. Indoor fuchsia, cultivated for over 200 years, is hybrid fuchsia and its many forms and varieties. She has long been loved by flower growers, who affectionately call her "Japanese lantern".
Botanical description
In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches. Fuchsia leaves, green or slightly reddish, oval, opposite, slightly pointed and serrated at the edges.
Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with drooping flowers, consisting of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The lobes of the calyx are longer than the petals, and the stamens are longer than the calyx. Fuchsia flowers - on long stalks, the color of the flowers is pink, white, red, orange, cream, lilac, purple - sometimes three different shades per flower. The fruit is an edible berry. The plant is so plastic that it can be given any shape - ampelous, bushy, pyramidal or grow a standard tree. In addition, different varieties of fuchsia bloom at different times with flowers of different colors, and you have the opportunity to create a collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late autumn. Fuchsias differ in the time of flowering, in the color of the flowers and in their appearance.
For example:
- simple (non-double) flowers, varieties: Brutus, Winston Churchill, Bon Accord;
- semi-double flowers, varieties: Tennessee Walts, Snowcap, Satellite;
- terry - Midge, Swingtime, Fashion;
- racemes - Leverkusen, Swanley Yellow.
Caring for home fuchsia
Growing conditions
Caring for fuchsia at home is surprisingly easy. It should be remembered that fuchsia prefers cool rooms in which the temperature does not rise above 20 ºC. Summer. In winter, the temperature should not exceed 15 ºC. The best place that fuchsia could take at home is the east or north window sill. If the apartment is too stuffy in summer, it is better to take the plant to the balcony or courtyard and find a well-lit place where the sun's rays fall only in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia prefers partial shade.
Watering should be regular and sufficient during growth and flowering. You need to water after the top layer of the soil dries out, while making sure that there is no stagnation of moisture in the roots. Water for irrigation must be defended or filtered. In late autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter it is watered 1-2 times a month. It would be nice to grow fuchsia in a thick ceramic pot to avoid overheating of the roots in the summer heat.
Spraying with water in the summer will very refresh your beauty, you can also achieve the desired air humidity by placing a pot of fuchsia on a tray with wet pebbles. Fertilizer
Outdoor fuchsias are best fed with biological fertilizers. Fuchsia at home responds well to fertilizing with ready-made complex fertilizers for flowering plants, which are applied once every two weeks during the growing season. In these fertilizers, as a rule, there is no nitrogen component or it is very small. In the winter months, a dormant period begins, and the plant will not need to be fed.
- Photo of hibiscus
Repotting
Fuchsia needs to be repotted annually in the spring. As a substrate, a mixture of soddy, leafy soil, peat, sand and humus in equal parts is used. A drainage layer is required, for example, from expanded clay. It is best to transplant fuchsia using the transshipment method: a little soil mixture is poured into the pot on the drainage layer, then the plant is transferred there along with an earthen clod, then the voids are filled with soil mixture.
The transplanted fuchsia is placed in a well-lit place, the stems are cut to one third of the length, sprayed and watered well. If you do everything right, fuchsia blooms will be plentiful. Pruning
Experts suggest pruning indoor fuchsia twice a year: at the end of the growing season - in early October, and in winter - at the very beginning of January. The first pruning involves the removal of all faded branches at a height of 2 cm from sleeping buds located in the sinuses, which are easy to detect by carefully examining each branch. After pruning, you can begin to remove pests, seed pods that you do not need, and spent flower stalks. The second pruning is carried out in January and represents the final formation of the crown of the plant.
Reproduction of domestic fuchsia
Growing from seeds
Fuchsia grown from seeds rarely retains the characteristics of the original plant, so this method is interesting only for those flower growers who are fond of breeding experiments.
The complexity of this method lies in the need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination of the plant by insects. To do this, the anthers are removed from the still unblown flower, and the pollen of the paternal plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil. After that, a cover is put on the flower to isolate it from insects. You can make a cover from paper or fabric, securing it below the flower with threads. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a day or two. Fuchsia seeds are sown on top of a damp substrate without covering, then the container is placed in a greenhouse and kept in good light and at room temperature. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks, after one and a half to two months the seedlings are seated more spaciously (dive), and after a couple of months the young plants are seated in separate pots. Seedlings should be accustomed to the environment gradually, opening the greenhouse for a while, otherwise unadapted seedlings may die after being placed in normal room conditions.
Cuttings
Still, the most reliable way to propagate fuchsia is vegetatively, namely, cuttings, since it can be used at any time of the year, but it is more reasonable to propagate fuchsia in spring. It is best to take young cuttings, as lignified segments take root and take too long to grow. The length of the cutting should be on average 10-20 cm, the leaves in the lower part of the cutting are removed, the remaining ones are shortened by half.
Filtered water is taken for rooting, the stalk placed in water is covered with a plastic bag or a plastic bottle. The roots of the cutting may appear on the fourth day, and maybe on the tenth. Do not wait until long roots grow, plant the cutting in the substrate as soon as the first young roots appear. There are daredevils among flower growers who plant fuchsia cuttings in the ground immediately, bypassing the stage of rooting them in water. But it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for cuttings in any case.
Fuchsia in winter
Fuchsia gradually goes into a dormant period in winter, which is necessary for almost any plant. If she rests fully and restores her wasted strength, then you can hope for abundant and long flowering next year.
- Opuntia: growing at home
To prepare the plant for rest, it is necessary to gradually reduce the watering of fuchsia, stop fertilizing and, finally, move the pot with the plant to a cooler room with an air temperature of 10-15ºC, where the fuchsia will overwinter. In an ordinary city apartment, a loggia or a balcony can be used as such a room, provided that they are closed with glazed frames and insulated.
Don't forget to prune the plant and exterminate pests before hibernation. If you are worried that the fuchsia will be cold, insulate the flowerpot with foam or put it in a box with sawdust. Fuchsia can winter in the cellar, and even in the garage, since it does not matter to her whether light will enter the room during this period or total darkness will come.
But if your fuchsia has to spend the winter on the windowsill in a well-heated room, then you can hardly expect it to quickly gain the necessary shape in the spring and make you happy with an unprecedented flowering. Fuchsia is an unpretentious plant, but it requires love and care like any other. Therefore, if you doom an exotic plant to winter hard labor on the windowsill, you will have to make sacrifices and keep the double-glazed window sash in the “ventilation” position almost around the clock.
Literature
- Read related topics on Wikipedia
- Peculiarities and other plants of the Cypriaceae family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
Fuchsia - care, photos, types
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growing and care at home, propagation and transplanting
The fuchsia plant (Fuchsia) is a member of the Cypress family.
This genus includes about 100 species. Such a plant was named after Fuchs, who was a German botanist. In nature, fuchsia can be found in Central and South America. Such a plant is represented by small shrubs and trees. In some species, the foliage is opposite, while in the rest it grows in whorls. At the end of the growing season, some of the species fly around the entire foliage. The shape of the leaf plates is elongated-oval, lanceolate or ovoid, and their edge can be with small notches or solid. Elongated tubular cups of flowers with long stamens may have a red or white color. Both an experienced grower and a beginner can grow fuchsia, because caring for it will not be difficult. It can be grown as a standard tree, as well as an ampelous plant. If you decide to start growing it, then you should immediately take into account that in winter it must be in a cool place, and you also need to remember that all foliage flies from a faded bush. Content
- 1 Brief description of growing
- 2 Fuchsia care
- 2.
8 Transplanting fuchsia
- 3 Propagation methods
- 3.1 Seed (generative) propagation
- 3.2 Cuttings
- Conditions for growing0007
Growing brief
- Flowering . It starts in spring and ends in late autumn.
- Temperature rating . During the growing season from 18 to 24 degrees, and in winter - from 5 to 10 degrees.
- Watering . In March-September, the bush is watered immediately after the top layer of the substrate dries out, and from the last days of November this is rarely done, but you need to make sure that the clod of earth in the pot does not dry out completely.
- Humidity . In May-August, the bush is moistened from a spray bottle with tepid water daily in the evening and morning, and in the autumn months this is done 1 time in 2-3 days. In winter, it is not necessary to spray the plant.
- Fertilizer .
In April-September, fuchsia is fed 2 times a month, using a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants.
- Rest period . From the last days of October to the end of January.
- Trimming . At the beginning of intensive growth. In ampelous varieties, the stems do not need pruning.
- Transplant . It is held once a year in the first days of March after the bush is cut.
- Soil mix . Peat, leaf earth and sand (2:3:1).
- Reproduction . Cuttings and seed method.
- Harmful insects . Spider mites and whiteflies.
- Diseases . Rot and spotting. The plant may become less spectacular due to violations of the rules of care or improper maintenance.
FUCHIA. Fuchsia care from "A" to "Z"!
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Caring for fuchsia at home
Lighting
Western or eastern windows are best for growing fuchsia, because it needs a lot of bright light, but it must be scattered.
In the morning and evening, she calmly withstands the direct rays of the sun. When growing a flower on a south-facing window sill, so that burns do not appear on it, it must be protected from the direct rays of the sun with translucent paper or cloth. If you choose a northern window sill for growing fuchsia, then it will not have enough light, which will lead to stretching of the branches, and will also have an extremely negative effect on flowering (it will not be at all or it will be scarce). During flowering, the bush cannot be disturbed (rearranged or rotated), otherwise all buds, flowers and foliage can fly around it. In the warm season, the bush can be moved to fresh air, but it is necessary to accustom it to new conditions gradually.
Temperature conditions
During the growing season, the air temperature should be 18–24 degrees. For wintering, you need to choose a well-lit and cool place (5-10 degrees). It must be remembered that the plant must winter in the cool.
In a warmer place, all foliage flies from the bush, and the stems become elongated. Fuchsia needs regular ventilation, but it must be protected from drafts, as they can cause its death. In the warm season, the bush can be moved to the balcony, while choosing a place for it that will be protected from direct sunlight, drafts and precipitation.
Watering
For irrigation use well-settled soft water at room temperature. In March-September, watering is carried out immediately after the top layer of the substrate dries out, the fact is that at this time the soil mixture in the pot should be a little moist all the time. From the first days of October, it is necessary to begin to gradually reduce watering, while by the last days of November, watering should become very rare and scarce, thanks to which flowering will be more magnificent next season. If in winter the flower is in a cool place (less than 10 degrees), then watering is carried out extremely rarely, and if at that time the room is warmer than 10 degrees, then the frequency of watering should be slightly increased.
Spraying
Soft water is used for spraying, and it must be well settled (at least 24 hours). In May-August, spraying should be carried out twice a day (in the early morning (before 9 am) and late in the evening (after 6 pm)). In winter, it is not necessary to moisten the bush from the sprayer.
Fertilizer
Top dressing of such a flower is carried out in April-September 1 time in 15-20 days, for this purpose complex mineral fertilizer for indoor plants is used. In winter, fuchsia is not fed.
Flowering
Properly cared for, home-grown fuchsia will bloom for a very long time, from May to November to be exact, and can also produce juicy berry-like fruits. In order for the bush to actively form young buds, it is necessary to pick off wilted flowers in a timely manner. To prolong flowering until December, in July the bush must be rearranged to the balcony, and even during the summer period it must be cut 3 times.
Fuchsia cut
If such a plant is at room temperature in winter, then because of this, the foliage may fall off, and the stems will become elongated.
Since the formation of flower buds is observed for the most part on young stems, in order for the flowering to be more lush, old bare shoots must be removed (if desired, they can be used as cuttings). Pruning and pinching the bush is carried out during the entire growing season. After 3 pairs of true leaf plates grow on young shoots, they need to be pinched.
To form a tree, 1 of the vertically growing stems must be tied to a support, which is also placed vertically. All side stems should be cut regularly until the trunk reaches the required height. Then you need to cut off the top of the tree and let several side stems grow (from 3 to 5), and the crown will consist of them. A spectacular dense crown of such a tree will form after 3 years.
Autumn pruning Fuchsia. How and when to cut fuchsia for the winter!
Watch this video on YouTube
Transplanting fuchsia
Transplant this flower once a year in the first weeks of spring.
Before replanting a bush, its old stems need to be shortened by at least 1/3, and the root system is also slightly pruned. If fuchsia is cultivated as an ampelous plant, then its stems do not need to be cut, otherwise it will become less spectacular. For transplantation, a slightly acidic substrate is used, which includes peat, hardwood and sand (2: 3: 1). You can also use another substrate, consisting of sand, greenhouse and clay-soddy soil (1: 2: 3), and also from a small amount of peat chips.
First, a drainage layer should be made on the bottom of the pot, which should occupy 1/5 of the container. The transplanted bush must be very well moistened from the sprayer, and also watered abundantly, then it is transferred to a place where the light is bright but diffused. In the middle of the summer period, if desired, you can re-transplant, while using fresh soil mixture.
Fuchsia. Transfer. [Hope and Peace]
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Breeding methods
Seed (generative) propagation
In order to collect seeds from room fuchsia, its flowers will require artificial pollination.
If there is a desire to get a new hybrid, then during pollination it is necessary to use various types of fuchsias, which differ from each other in color and shape of flowers.
Cuttings
When harvesting cuttings, it should be noted that their length should be from 50 to 70 mm. In order for the cuttings to take root, they can be planted in sand or placed in a container of water. The cuttings will root in about 20-30 days. For planting rooted cuttings, separate pots are used, reaching 9 in diameter.0 mm, which are filled with a soil mixture consisting of sand, humus, sod and leaf soil (1:1:1:1). In order for the bushes to grow spectacular and thick, several cuttings must be planted in 1 pot at once. In such bushes, flowers should appear in the same year. For propagation of slow-growing species of fuchsia, the cutting method is used, while this procedure is carried out in the last summer weeks.
REPRODUCTION OF FUCHIA- THE BEST WAY OF REPRODUCTION OF FUCHIA!!!
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Possible problems
Fuchsia reacts extremely negatively to stagnant air, therefore, during the growing season, the room where the flower is located must be systematically ventilated, or the pot with the plant can be transferred to the balcony.
Fuchsia blooms quickly
There are several reasons why the shrub blooms relatively quickly:
- if the bush was watered abundantly in winter and it was warm;
- if the lighting was excessively scarce during the spring-summer period;
- if the bush was fed and watered less often than necessary in summer.
Leaves fall on fuchsia
If the foliage flies around in winter, then the bush must be removed from bright light, while the emerging buds must be pinched. Even flying around the foliage can be associated with excessively poor watering, too low humidity and its very high temperature. Fuchsia can drop buds with excessively poor lighting, untimely watering and very high air temperatures.
Spots on fuchsia leaves
The bush is affected by spotting if it is watered too often in winter.
Fuchsia dropped buds
During the period of bud formation, as well as flowering, it is forbidden to disturb the bush, because if you rearrange or turn it, then all the buds will fly around it.
If the flower is exposed to a draft, then its buds will also all fall off.
Harmful insects
Spider mites and whiteflies most often settle on such a plant.
For beginners about fuchsias
Watch this video on YouTube
Types of fuchsia with photos and names
Brilliant fuchsia (Fuchsia fulgens)
This view comes from the mountains of Mexico. The height of this evergreen shrub is about 100–200 cm, its branched stems are bare. Large leaf plates have a heart-shaped or elongated-ovoid shape, they are bare, serrated along the edge. Their width is about 12 centimeters, and the length is up to 20 centimeters. Hanging racemose inflorescences grow on the tops of the stems, which consist of pale red flowers with petals about 10 centimeters long, as well as a corolla tube tapering to the base up to 10 centimeters long. The fruit is a berry that can be eaten. This species blooms throughout the summer period.
Bolivian fuchsia (Fuchsia boliviana)
This species is found naturally in the mountainous regions of Ecuador, Argentina and Bolivia. The height of this evergreen shrub may slightly exceed 100 cm. The leaf plates pointed at the top have an elliptical or ovoid shape, they are finely serrated along the edge, their width is 6 centimeters, and their length is up to 15 centimeters. Flowering is observed in the first half of the spring period. The apical racemose inflorescences consist of one centimeter dark red flowers.
Fuchsia magellanica
Either Fuchsia discolor or Fuchsia conica.
The height of this shrub is 200–500 cm. There is a slight pubescence on the surface of the purple stems. Lanceolate-ovate leaf plates can be alternately arranged or grow collected in whorls of 3 pieces, their edge is serrated. Their length is about 50 mm, and purple streaks are clearly visible on the surface. Axillary flowers are collected in 4 pieces or are single.
