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How long does a strawberry plant take to grow


How Long Will it Take For Strawberries to Grow in My Garden?

Fruit

Are you thinking of adding some strawberries to your garden, but aren't sure how long they are going to take to grow? The answer may actually surprise you, as it depends on time of year, soil, geographic location and more. In this article, we explore how long it takes for strawberries to grow, and what to do if you are running into problems.

By Jason White Last updated: April 29, 2022 | 7 min read

Strawberries are among the most popular fruits you can grow in summer. They are excellent runner plants that can make great ground cover for gardens that may have gaps on the ground, or spaces without plants.

If you are a first-timer, you might wonder how long it will take for strawberries to grow. Understanding how long they can take to grow may influence when or where you decide to plant them.

Knowing the growth period of strawberries is essential because it will enable you to plan for crop rotation to maximize land use. Strawberries are some of the easiest crops to cultivate, especially for beginners. 

Contents

How Long Does It Take Strawberries to Mature? 

There are many factors that contribute to how long it takes for your strawberries to mature.

The length of time between planting and production of this delicious food depends on many factors. These factors vary from varieties of strawberries to growth conditions. Some of the factors that will determine the amount of time your strawberries will take include: 

The modern strawberry plants can reach a growth peak of 12 inches. After the break of dormancy, it will take a strawberry plant two months to reach this height.  

Depending on the environmental conditions, a new seedling will need around six months to achieve the 12 inches’ milestone peak. Therefore, seedlings grow at a rate of 12 inches per six months, while established plants grow at 12 inches per six months. 

A seedling will take three times longer to reach full height. However, this can increase or reduce depending on the soil, plant nutrition, location, weather, and climatic conditions.  

How Long Do Strawberries Take to Produce Fruits? 

On average, strawberries take roughly three months to produce their fruits. The three months include the whole growing process up to harvest time. Depending on varieties, strawberries do well at the end of spring as winter approaches.  Strawberries generally grow faster than melon type fruits, like Cantaloupe for example, which generally makes them more favorable for people looking for fast-growing fruit plants.

There are several growth phases as described below: 

Phase 1: Leaves and Flowers 

The first phase of the production of strawberries is when leaves are formed and flowers begin to show up.

The production of fruits and flowers is the initial phase of growing strawberries. As spring approaches, the weather gradually turns warmer. Thus, strawberries begin producing leaves through photosynthesis. Soon, they grow large enough and start making flowers.  

Phase 2: Flowers to Fruit 

After having enough leaves, flowers bloom with enough sun.

Plants with edible fruits produce flowers at some point, usually after acquiring enough leaves and food. Flowers usually emerge after exposure to adequate sunlight; therefore, it can take too long to produce flowers and fruits if you don’t expose them to enough sunshine. 

Phase 3: Pollination and Fruit Production  

Once insects pollinate the flowers, the fruit begins to grow.

Pollination is critical for strawberries. Without pollination, fertilization will not occur; thus, they won’t produce fruits. Strawberries are insect-pollinated followers. The most common pollinators are birds, bees, and other insects. 

Phase 4: Production of Red Strawberry Fruits  

Strawberries will go from green to red when they are ripe, or at peak sweetness.

At this final phase, strawberries grow at a very high rate as long as the soil, water, and temperature conditions are favorable. 

Strawberry Varieties and Their Growth Rates 

The different varieties and types of strawberries will grow at different paces.

There are several strawberry varieties, each with its growth rate. Some strawberries are differently colored, and have been cultivated over time to produce different strawberry types with different growth rates. Consequently, their cultivation is different from one place to another. 

June Varieties  

These varieties bear fruits even before June in warm climates. June bearing varieties can produce fruits over three weeks. They are sensitive to the length of daytime, produce buds in autumn and flowers and fruits the following June. 

Ever Bearing Types  

The Ever Bearing varieties can produce fruits almost throughout. Optimal production is during spring, with light fruit produced in the summer season. Furthermore, they can bear another crop in the fall season.  

Day Neutral Types  

They produce strawberries consistently throughout the season until the first frost. The day-neutral types are not sensitive to the length of day or sunlight. Therefore, they produce runners, buds, and fruits regularly if there is an optimal temperature of 1 to 30 degrees Celsius. 

California Varieties  

California varieties are very tough; therefore, they can withstand extreme or unfavorable environmental conditions. To facilitate fast growth, we recommend you plant them early during spring. 

We also recommend the removal of the first flowers to aid full establishment. These varieties will produce flowers during their second spring season. The fruits are usually ready for consumption 4-6 weeks later. 

Alpine Strawberries 

The alpine strawberries are different from the California varieties. It grows neatly in clumps and doesn’t produce plant runners. Instead, we recommend you plant them from seeds. Plant them in your garden four to six weeks after germination of the seeds. 

After establishment, they blossom consistently from early spring through the fall season. Furthermore, they have the advantage of producing fruits in their first year. 

We recommend you plant a variety of types, each with a unique response to environmental conditions. With multiple varieties, you will enjoy diverse fruits. Ensure you grow to plant them during spring to prevent rotting and guarantee fruit production. 

What Is the Lifespan of Strawberries? 

A strawberry plant’s lifespan will depend on a number of factors, but it is generally 2-3 years.

The life of strawberries begins with establishing a new crop, which peaks 2-3 years later. After reaching a peak potential, strawberries proceed to senescence and death. Death occurs approximately three years after its peak. 

Under normal conditions, strawberries can last for 5-6 years. However, after two productive years, they usually lose their vigor, and the production of fruits declines.  

As they age, strawberry plants weaken, and the fruits can die from fungi and other environmental microorganisms. The death of strawberries starts with defects, spots, and browning of previously normal and healthy plants. 

Several factors can prolong or hinder the maturity of strawberries. Furthermore, you might have big strawberry plants but no fruits. The root of the problem can range from inappropriate watering and poor growing conditions.  

Some of the factors that prolong strawberry maturation and fruit production include: 

Inappropriate Growing Conditions 

It is always ideal to make sure growing conditions are optimal for strawberries before planting them.

Although strawberries grow almost anywhere, they prefer soil with proper drainage and a combination of both cool and warm environmental conditions. In case they fall short of these conditions, it will take them too long to mature. 

Plants grown in hot conditions don’t produce good berries. However, suppose a cold snap occurs when the plants are in blossom; open blossoms will be damaged; thus, the produce will be low.   

So, suppose you’re looking to minimize strawberries’ growth period, ensure you grow them in the appropriate environmental conditions. 

Watering Issues  
You need to provide just the right amount of water for your strawberry plant.

Inappropriate watering will also prolong maturation and fruit production in strawberries. Strawberries absorb most of their moisture from the upper few inches of the soil, which unfortunately tends to dry fast.  

To compensate for this drying, you must supply plenty of water throughout the growing season. 

Avoid excessive watering since it can lead to premature death by facilitating root rotting. In addition, excessive watering reduces the lifespan of strawberry plants. 

Strawberry Diseases and Pests  
Brown leaf spot is an example of a disease that can harm your strawberry plant and hinder fruit production.

Pest and disease also reduce the lifespan and fruit production in strawberries. Suppose you don’t control strawberry diseases and pests; they will last for less than five-six years. 

Furthermore, fruit production is minimal and after an extended period. The most common pest is Lygus bugs, while the most typical disease is the rooting of roots. 

Improper Fertilizer Application  
Applying compost fertilizer to your strawberry plants is one of the best ways to give them a boost in nutrition.

As with water, too much or too little fertilizer can be detrimental to strawberries. Without adequate nutrients, growth will slow down; thus, your plant will take too long to mature. If they are lucky to reach full maturity without sufficient nutrients, their fruit production will be deficient. 

Ensure you provide compost or any other organic fertilizer to replenish soil nutrients. However, be very careful with nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen promotes foliage growth rather than strawberry fruit production. 

How to Hasten Strawberry Growth  

It is good to know the best growing conditions for strawberries.

To promote or hasten the growth of strawberry plants, provide appropriate growth conditions. The optimal conditions for the development of strawberries are:

Here are some of the tricks of hastening strawberry maturity:

Adequate Watering 
Berries are made of mostly water, so providing enough water is crucial.

Water is a primary requirement for the growth of plants and animals. Strawberries don’t have deep roots; thus, ensure you water adequately, especially during dry weather conditions. Strawberries don’t like excessive water; irrigate enough water without wetting leaves if possible.  

Adequate Exposure to Sunlight 
An energy and nutrient source is light, and strawberries need lots of it.

Light is a requirement for photosynthesis, which plants use to make their food and grow strong and healthy. For example, without adequate light, strawberries take too long to grow since they lack enough food.  

To facilitate adequate light exposure, space your strawberries properly. Proper spacing not only promotes light penetration but also avoids unnecessary competition for nutrients. In addition, since overcrowding promotes the spread of pests and diseases between plants, the spacing will limit infection and pest spread. Therefore, we recommend a spacing of 20cm between plants. 

Proper Choice of Soil  
The soil you select for your strawberry plants should be the proper pH level.

Grow strawberries in well-drained and rich soils. Select soil rich in humus, sand, and slightly acidic. Provide adequate organic and inorganic fertilizer to support growth. Minimize weed growth by applying organic or inorganic mulch. 

Removal of plant runners reduces nutrient competition, thus will promote growth and production from your main plant. Plant runners are elongated stems arising from the main plant. 

Final Thoughts

In summary, strawberries can last between six to five years, with a peak of three years. Fruit production takes between 4-6 weeks. Planting as a bare root strawberry may accelerate the acclimation period. After the peak period, there is deterioration over the next 2-3 years. 

The lifespan of strawberries and their growth rate depends on environmental conditions and the type of soil. Therefore, optimal conditions are necessary for optimal growth rate and production. 

The Definitive Guide (Updated 2022)

Strawberry plants are a wonderful forb. Their life cycle is much more complicated than the simple appearance of the humble strawberry plant implies. The growth cycle of strawberry plants spans the entire year and repeats annually. The life cycle of strawberry plants begins either from seed or from runner plants, and continues until senescence. This post is an overview of the life of a strawberry plant from germination until withered, brown leaves signify the passage from life unto death.

The Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants

As with any cyclical scenario, it is difficult to choose a starting point (which came first, the chicken or the egg?). For the purposes of describing the life cycle of strawberry plants, a dual starting point will be considered as a sprouted strawberry seedling and a new strawberry runner. While both of these starting points require the existence of prior life, a discussion of the origins of life is outside the purview of this article.

Life Cycle of Strawberries: Beginnings

The strawberry seed, as with all seeds, contains the genetic material necessary for the continuation of the plant species (see the Strawberry Seeds page for more details). Upon sprouting, the roots are sent downward into the soil, and the transformation of nutrients into plant matter proceeds as the life cycle of the plant is perpetuated by resources obtained from the plants surroundings. These seedlings are genetically varied from the parent plants. Alternatively, established strawberry plants multiply themselves by means of clone or daughter plants extended from themselves by means of stolons to root some distance away from the mother plant and be established as an independent, but genetically identical, strawberry plant (see this page for more details: Strawberry Runners). Strawberry seeds will usually sprout in the late winter or spring after a period of cold stratification during winter months (but this isn’t required for all strawberry varieties) while runner plants are generally established later in the spring through the fall during warmer temperatures.

Jump to:

Growth Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Maturation

Once root growth commences, plant growth begins in earnest for both seedlings and runner plants. This allows all parts of the strawberry plant to grow and mature. The runner plants have a distinct advantage over seedlings. They start out larger and have a more fully formed support system providing the energy needed for development. But, by the time late summer and early fall rolls around, both seedlings and runner plants are usually established. In the process of growing, the plants will have sent forth roots and produced a canopy of photosynthesizing tri-lobed leaflets sitting atop non-woody stems. Both roots and leaves extend from the hub of the strawberry plant, the crown.

Growth Cycle of Strawberries: Multiplication & Expansion

Once the plants have matured, they are ready to multiply and expand. They do this by means of the runner plants that have already been mentioned. The runners (stolons) are usually between 8 and 18 inches long, depending on the strawberry variety. These extensions serve to spread a strawberry plant’s range and find areas more favorable to growth, whether through higher soil quality or increased exposure to sunlight. Most strawberry varieties are adept at multiplication in this fashion, and they are even considered an invasive weed in some situations.

Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Seeds

While strawberry plants produce runners, they don’t put all their reproductive eggs in the same basket. Each strawberry plant devotes significant energy to genetic diversification through seed production. Strawberry seeds come from strawberry flowers which come from strawberry buds which are formed in the crowns of established strawberry plants. There are some variances of flower bud, flower, and strawberry production depending on which type of strawberry plant is considered (see the Strawberry Variety page for more details). The most common of these types is the June-bearing strawberry, and it will be considered here.

During the late summer and early fall, strawberry plants begin forming flower buds within their crowns. During this period, adequate water, light, and nutrients are critical. The flower buds form prior to winter and then move into dormancy (along with the rest of the plant) as the temperature drops. When temperatures again warm in late winter or early spring, the plants revive and immediately begin the transformation of the flower buds into flowers sitting atop stalks. These flowers, like most flowers, are then pollinated by insects and other pollinators. The result of pollination is a large mass of (usually red) accessory tissue studded with individual seed-containing fruits (there are also white strawberries, however). These achenes are attractive to birds and other creatures (including humans!) and are eaten. They are then digested. The remains, including many viable seeds, are then deposited in different locations to sprout and begin the life cycle of strawberry plants again.

Life Cycle of Strawberries: Life Span

The life arc of strawberries begins with the establishment of a new plant, peaks two to three years later, and then proceeds toward senescence and death two to three years following its peak. Under ideal conditions, a strawberry plant can live up to 5-6 years. After 3 productive years, however, they usually begin to lose vigor, and the production of strawberries begins to decline rapidly. Eventually, as age progresses and the strawberry plant weakens, strawberries usually succumb to ubiquitous opportunistic fungi or other environmental pathogens. The death process usually commences with spots, defects, and browning of previously healthy plant tissues and ends with a brown, withered, decomposing mass.

How Strawberry Plant Reproduce Themselves

Strawberry plants are perennials. They can reproduce by seed. Home gardeners find growing strawberry plants from seed notoriously difficult.

Strawberry plants also grow by runners. Runners are long stems with leaves that can develop their own root system where they touch moist soil.

A runner is the same plant as its parent until it is no longer connected to the crown, the central mass of roots of the strawberry plant. But even after the runner is cut off and transplanted somewhere else, it remains a clone of the mother plant. It is just a younger version of the strawberry plant you have been growing for one, two, three, or more years.

Strawberry plants grow runners late in the season.

Strawberry plants don’t put their energy into producing runners until after they have produced fruit. After the plant has produced strawberries with their tiny seeds and as summer days begin to wane, a strawberry plant senses it is time to put out runners.

There is a beginning and an end to “runner season” for strawberry plants. Summer-bearing strawberry plants put all of their energy into producing fruit as the days are getting longer. Strawberries are coated with tiny seeds that can reproduce the plant, and, in nature, red, sweet strawberries encourage animals to spread strawberry seeds far and wide.

After producing fruit, the plant devotes its energy into producing runners. Long days trigger the production of a hormone called gibberellin that causes stems to grow longer. (You can buy gibberellin to force strawberry plants to grow long stems, but you don’t need to, because the strawberry plants will do this on their own. ) After producing fruit, the plant’s energy is focused on making runners.

Scientists have discovered that the strawberry plant has to finish producing its runners before temperatures average about 10 degrees Celsius (52 degrees Fahrenheit). Cool and cold weather cause the plant to go dormant. Dormant strawberry plants have to survive on stored energy through the winter until next spring.

Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants: Conclusion

Throughout their life, strawberry plants provide many times their own weight in harvested strawberries. They are one of the most productive plants when what is produced from the weight of the plant is considered. Strawberries begin to ripen four to five weeks after the first flowers open and continue to ripen for about three weeks. Have you considered growing strawberries yourself this year? If so, there are a host of suppliers from which you can find multiple strawberry varieties for sale. Simply see this directory: Strawberry Plants for Sale.

Understanding the growth cycle of strawberry plants can help you in your strawberry growing endeavors. Good luck!

Learn everything about growing strawberries from the Strawberry Master Manual, also don't forget to follow me on Pinterest and Facebook to stay updated with everything I post. We also have a Strawberry gardening group on Facebook! Feel free to join.

How many strawberries grow

Guidelines recommend growing strawberries for about 4 years. Then completely throw out and plant new ones. Is it important at the same time to change the place of landing, or should one just leave the site to rest for a year?

Good strawberries grow in one place for no more than three years. Then the berry shrinks. Every year it becomes smaller and smaller turning into strawberries. We transplant usually in the fourth year, in the fall. Ours is divided into two sections. With the expectation that by the time it was removed from the first section, the second would already have a normal berry. We plant a piece of land from under strawberries for a year with garlic. And by the way. why throw out all the seedlings completely? In the last summer, before planting, we do not cut off the mustache, but sprinkle with earth and in the fall these seedlings are planted.

It is true that reference books often recommend moving strawberry beds after 3-4 years, but this is not a general recommendation. Much depends on the type of strawberry. Some varieties bear fruit well and 6 and 8 years. And if the harvest is excellent, there is no point in replanting strawberries. However, most varieties still need to be replanted at least once every 5 years. Sometimes strawberries are specially planted in five beds, where strawberries are planted on one bed this year, strawberries were squeezed on the second in the past, and so on. It is clear that the beds of 3 and 4 years give the best result, if the bed on which strawberries were planted five years ago lags far behind them in yield, then it's time to replant it. It does not make sense to leave the dug-out bed empty; it is better to sow it with other vegetables that can both replenish nutrients in the ground and destroy various specific strawberry pests. Therefore, planting onions and garlic after strawberries is considered ideal.

Source: http://www. bolshoyvopros. ru/questions/486242-skolko-let-mozhno-vyraschivat-klubniku-na-odnom-meste. html

After how many days after flowering there will be strawberries, berries will appear.

There is no definite answer to this question.

The beginning of flowering depends not only on the variety, but also on the weather in spring. If the spring is more or less warm, without frosty nights, then the beginning of flowering will come a little earlier, and the flowering itself will pass faster and more actively.

Last year I noticed the first flowers on May 8-9, mass flowering on May 15-17, and the first berries were on June 12, mass collection on June 21.

That is, the berries do not appear earlier than 32-35 days after flowering.

Indeed, there are quite a lot of factors influencing the appearance of ripe strawberries after the end of its flowering, and the main ones were named earlier. Unless they missed another important point - where exactly this nut, beloved by many, grows - in the sun, in the shade or partial shade.

Under favorable conditions, when there are much more sunny days than rainy ones, the waiting time for the first harvest of early varieties is no more than three weeks, provided that the bushes are always in the sun; in partial shade - 25-28 days, and in the shade - 30-35 days.

Accordingly, in case of prevailing cloudy weather, maturation is delayed for about one week.

The fruit ripening time depends on the variety. For example, the remontant variety bears fruit all summer, while ordinary varieties depend on the region and climatic conditions. Basically, after flowering until the first strawberries, at least a month should pass.

Strawberries need to be cared for in order to ripen faster. It is necessary to fertilize, water, make sure that direct sunlight does not fall, weed the berries.

I would like to share good advice for a good harvest. In the spring, before flowering, sprinkle a little ammonium nitrate on the beds with strawberries, or bring a solution: 10 liters of water, one vial of ammonia.

Strawberry is a very beautiful, tasty and healthy berry rich in vitamins and microelements.

Also rich in antioxidants.

Strawberry bushes reach a height of about 25 cm.

The flowers themselves are usually white, bisexual and have five petals.

Berries are overgrown receptacles with numerous fruits on the surface, most often red.

For growing strawberries, onions, herbs, legumes, grains are perfect.

Strawberry bushes should be in a spacious sunny place - then the berries will be large and sweet.

Early and mid-season varieties begin to bear fruit during June.

Strawberries usually bloom for three weeks and fill up with red berries, which fill up and turn red in a couple of days under abundant sun.

It is also necessary to water the strawberries in moderation, but also not to allow overdrying. You can use the irrigation method of watering.

I'm talking only about Central Russia, because in other regions the terms may be completely different. Strawberries (correctly - garden strawberries) bloom in May, depending on the weather (amount of heat), somewhere after the tenth day (early varieties), but late ones can bloom at the end of May. The later the strawberries bloom, the later the berries will begin to ripen. It `s naturally.

Then other factors act - the presence of good nutrition in the soil, the amount of moisture, the composition of the soil (sandy loam, loam), the total amount of heat. All these external factors significantly affect the maturation time. To them you can add the degree of shading of the strawberry bushes in the beds (air supply).

The size of the berries also matters. The smaller the berries, the faster they ripen. For example, large-fruited strawberries ripen more slowly than small-fruited remontant ones. On average, the ripening time of berries from the moment of flowering begins varies from one to one and a half months, but it can be less for small berries - two weeks. The first berries usually appear, depending on the specific region, in the second decade of June and the first days of July. This also applies to the end of fruiting strawberries.

Source: http://www. bolshoyvopros. ru/questions/2003028-cherez-skolko-dnej-posle-cvetenija-budet-klubnika-pojavjatsja-jagody. html

Why don't I grow strawberries

Tatyana
SYSOEVA.

The queen of
summer desserts is strawberries. Bright colors
delicate aroma, juicy pulp
large berries . .. A very healthy and tasty
berry, but we don’t always eat it “from the belly”
as much as we like. In
childhood, we measured the harvest at
"fists" - three beds gave
several handfuls ("fists")
strawberries. It was a delicacy,
which was divided by berry into all
and then savored for a long time. I love strawberries very much and now I can eat
of it really as much as
I want. My children and numerous
friends of ours, who often visit us
in the summer, also do not know the
restrictions. In addition, we cook enough jam, although, it must be admitted, strawberries lose a lot

when harvesting.

"Why don't
grow strawberries for me?" - this is the
question that is often asked at
fairs and in conversations by beginner gardeners
. Let's leave aside
the name of this berry - what in
people call "Victoria" and
"strawberries", in
reality strawberry
garden - and let's talk about why
it does not grow.

Variety is
half of your success. Do not expect a good tribe from a bad seed
- this is
folk wisdom. Watching
recent years the seedlings, which are sold
in the spring and autumn in the markets and
markets, I can say with confidence
:
varietal berries, as a rule, do not smell here. A pleasant
exception is
experienced gardeners, but their
planting material is a drop in the
raging elemental sea. Usually
mustaches are sold that do not match the
variety, awarded many
sores and do not meet the
requirements for seedlings. For Sale
something, semi-dry, with threads
roots, all stained, small and
non-standard. Or - with a clod of earth.
And in this lump you can stick anything
you like, if there are not enough of your roots, or
they are old and blackened. Further
it all depends on the talent of the seller. I
know excellent sellers who can
persuade a person to buy
even an aspen log -
people earn their money. Your business
- what to spend yours on.

This spring
there was a great demand for seedlings
of garden strawberry, because many
gardeners had all
frozen in the harsh winter. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that
seedlings purchased from unverified sellers will please
gullible buyers.

Buying seedlings
from just anyone, you drag various diseases to
your plot, and
often just strawberry weeds
, which will give nothing at all
. Of course, there is no need to talk about the variety here,
.

But everything is not so
bad - the market is gradually becoming
civilized, small shops
appear, where they sell
high-quality seeds and
planting material, without
breaking sky-high prices.
It's up to the buyer - either you will
take seedlings from Baba Katya
(of course, a good person!) and
harvest guests or
find another way out.

Before choosing a variety
, consider whether it is cold
in your area? How long do
spring frosts last? Do you
have the opportunity to come often
to water and care for the berries? What exactly do you want from the
variety
: get a berry early and sell it in the market
or make a rich jam
? Or maybe
feast on berries until late autumn
? And in general - are you really ready to work
in order to get something
?

Good varieties
released for
Irkutsk and the region, unfortunately, not so many
. Winter hardiness,
disease resistance,
yield - these are the main
requirements for varieties. Let's dwell on
of some of them.

Before
other varieties usually ripens
Zarya. The bush is tall,
slightly sprawling, peduncles at
leaf level or lower. Berries
of the first harvest (as usual for all
varieties the largest), rounded
shiny, bright red, dessert
taste. Average weight 7-10 g,
maximum depends on care and
can be up to 20-22 g. Yield 1.2-1.8 kg from
sq. m. To put it simply, the berry
of this variety is not very large,
is tasty, medium-yielding. The main advantage of Zarya is
high winter hardiness and relatively
early fruiting.

Mashenka
(Moscow Yubileinaya) - variety
medium early. The bush is powerful, well developed
. The first berries are very large
- typically a fusion of several flowers
- wide, fan-shaped
forms, weighing up to 50 g. The next
berries are noticeably smaller - 12-15 g,
oblong, slightly ribbed.
Sweet and sour taste. Yield 2-3 kg from
sq. m. Winter hardiness is good. To
, unfortunately, although this variety is sold
everywhere, it is almost impossible to buy a real Masha
. In this
variety of people,
is usually attracted by the size of the first berries - not
will fit into a glass. Indeed, this
makes an impression, although the
variety does not particularly shine.

My favorite variety
is Fairy. Over the past five years,
it gives a high
stable crop, pleases
with resistance to diseases and frost.
I like an even large berry with a delicate taste
, it is well transported
, good for jam
because of the evenness of the berries. The first
berries weigh up to 40 g - also not
will enter either into the mouth or into a glass, in
on average - a large berry 15-18 g,
crop from 1 sq. m - 3 or more kg. Berry
round or truncated conical
shape. Variety of medium term
maturation, which almost excludes
falling of color under spring frosts
.

Varieties
of medium maturity
also include Troubadour. Its berries
are wide, dense, dark red,
have a very pleasant taste. The mass of the first
berries is 30-35 g, the rest - 15-17
. Also winter-hardy,
large-fruited, productive variety.

Redgauntlet -
this variety ripens later. He
features dark green foliage,
characteristic elongated berry shape
, good taste. The mass of the first
berries is 32-35 g, then up to 15-17 g. The pulp
is dense, the berries are very
transportable. Harvest like Fairy
and Troubadour, winter hardiness is high.

This,
, of course, is far from all the varieties that
are planted with us. But! Beautiful
varieties Cardinal and Gigantella just
froze out last winter, Moscow
early forms a large number of
whiskers, berry is small and
heavily spotted leaves. The
varieties listed above and the
varieties analyzed in detail performed well in our
conditions.

A few words
about remontant strawberries. She
blooms earlier than usual (especially
if you use a polyethylene film
). This makes it possible for
to receive the first
berries much earlier, already in the first week of June). But
the danger of late spring frosts is
great. Berries are small, very
fragrant, there are a lot of them on the bush.
Of course, there will be no jam from it, but
for a long time, until late autumn (again,
, if covered with foil), it will
give a fragrant berry. Hello
summer, when the snow has already fallen - this
is very nice.

It is possible to grow seedlings from seeds
from winter
(varieties Rugen, Alexandria, Baron
Solemacher, Ruyana, etc.).
needs a harvest this year.

And not
thicken plantings! By planting more than 90,076 plants per square meter, you will receive 90,076 not an increase, but a decrease in 90,076 crops. Indeed, up to 50 percent of its
can be eaten by gray rot, especially
in a damp summer, and other
diseases will spread faster.
The distance between the bushes should
be at least 25-30 cm, between the rows -
even more. The described varieties
of strawberries give powerful bushes, there should be gaps between
of them. Nothing,
if the garden bed
planted in autumn at first looks lonely, in
you will not recognize it.

There are also new varieties
, which rattle in advertising for
all over Russia. Of course, I really want to try
, but how will they grow in
us (advertising is just total,
is almost MMM), but you can’t bet on these varieties
. They are new for
Irkutsk, it is not known how
will survive the winter, whether
will retain their high productivity. You can in
one beautiful winter lose all
their new plantation and their own
a lot of money for seedlings.

I would offer
my own version of the ratio of varieties
- several (10-15) bushes
of remontant strawberries, the same number of bushes of early strawberries
, and the main
berries will be given to you by varieties of the average
ripening period (Fairy, Troubadour).
This is 2/3 of the plantation - 40-50 bushes. And
add about 20 late
Redgauntlets. If your
plot is located in a cold place
, frosts last a long time,
change the ratio in favor of
medium and late varieties.

About the timing of
landing. The directories have
a visual diagram, which
shows the dependence of the harvest
of the next year on the month of planting.
Almost 100 percent of the possible
harvest is given by plantings in July and
in August. Further, this percentage
decreases according to the month.
This is completely logical - the plant
manages to take root and gain
strength for the next year. Difficulties
July planting - drought. Seedlings
should be well watered, mulched
with peat, humus, moss, etc. and
must be shaded.

How to plant a seedling
, of course, you yourself know.
Everything is simple here -
straighten the roots, compress them with earth, do not cover the
"heart", water well.

In conclusion,
is one (out of a thousand!) recipe for eating fresh strawberries
. I don't know what
is with whipped cream, but
we eat "strawberries
in a rustic way "- large ripe
berries are cut in half (heart),
fall asleep with sugar and put
rustic sour cream. Mix all
and eat slowly with
fresh white bread. Very tasty and
nutritious, although you won't lose weight from such a dish. It's okay - in the summer of
there is a lot of work, and you can feast on it.

Source: http://www. vsp. ru/1998/08/01/pochemu-u-menya-ne-rastet-klubnika/

Lan, why the question? After all, everything has long been calculated, verified, described and painted. In general terms, somewhere like this:

- if the varieties are NOT REPAIR, then strawberries are grown in a 3-year-old culture, since it has already been proven and re-proven that in the 4th year its yield drops sharply due to the growth of bushes, soil depletion and infection with all sorts of pests. At the same time, the best harvest for the 2nd year.

- remontant varieties with two fruiting waves - the beginning of summer / autumn is carried out in a 2-year-old culture against the background of an increased agricultural background - large doses of fertilizers. Moreover, the queen cells are kept separately and do not allow them to bear fruit.

- modern remontant varieties of continuous flowering (all summer) are in an annual form with a very high agricultural background. That is, planting good bushes in the fall and harvesting all next summer. In autumn, to throw out and plant a new young strawberry.

It is necessary to read trusted authors and serious articles. And not all in a row. Unfortunately, there is really a lot of nonsense written on the internet.
Your unsuccessful attempt is connected either with the soil (highly acidic and heavy, or vice versa, acidic, but sandy and requires constant good watering), or with poor-quality planting material, of which there is now a cart and a small cart (quite possibly initially infected with the same strawberry mite).

And no self-sown seedlings. Strawberry seeds practically do not repeat the parent variety.

When planting strong, regular seedlings in mid-August in properly prepared soil, normal bushes with large leaves are already obtained at the end of October, which winter well and give quite a decent harvest the next year.

Change of seat is a must. Strawberries are a very painful crop, both in terms of pests and in terms of fungal diseases. At the same time, the yield is greatly reduced. Plus, it devastates the soil specifically to a greater depth.

Where to get quality strawberry seedlings in August - I will not say, because I myself am still looking for sources.

Lan, I use several old books in the garden, including, oddly enough, one of the first books by Ganichkina (they didn’t carry her yet and the booklet is thin and quite to the point). I don’t understand the new ones, I need to monitor with avid gardeners I know.

Strawberries usually go in the following sequence - 3 beds: one-year-old, two-year-old, three-year-old. Every year you clean one bed of a three-year-old after fruiting in mid-July. In its place, you can immediately sow dill lettuce, etc. greenfinch. In autumn, winter garlic is usually planted on it (cleaning the land). For good reasons, it’s better not to return strawberries to it in a year, but after 2-3 and at this time to plant greens, carrots, and a year before planting strawberries, it’s very good to plant crops that require more compost - cucumbers under film, zucchini, cabbage (but this if there is a place to lead the beds).

And in August you plant new strawberries on any vegetable patch of the right size.
If you managed to buy normal seedlings, then you need your own queen cells. Only one sensible uncle explained that a separate bed is made under the mother liquor to the side and ONLY young annual bushes are planted - 4 bushes per 1 sq. How much on the bush you need to specify - I forgot. At the same time - attention - all summer these bushes are sprayed both from fungal diseases and from parasites.

Palna - this means that for some reason your strawberries grew very poorly for the first two years and finally the poor ones recovered by the 3rd 4th year. The largest berry is usually on the first year, planted according to the rules in August. Another thing is that the peduncles themselves in such a first year are less than in the second and third years.
Although, if the first year fell into a dry year like 2010 and she did not get normal watering, then she could give berries smaller than the second year. But these are signs of a bad year.

I wrote about landing a little higher. If the place is limited, then they break 4 beds:
- one-year-old
- two-year-old
- three-year-old
- garlic and greenfinch between it (if you don’t need so much garlic.

And then spin on these four beds. But sooner or later you still have to change the location of all four beds at once ((.

Source: http://eva. ru/house-and-hobby/messages-2964915.htm

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Fragrant strawberries (strawberries) - a great treat on a warm summer evening.Historically, the berry is America, and today it is cultivated all over the globe.It's hard to meet a person who would not like strawberries.

In order to get the maximum yield, you need to see the best strawberry varieties with photos and descriptions and choose the most suitable ones for yourself!

Remontant varieties of strawberries

Remontant varieties occupy a leading position among domestic summer residents. The peculiarity of this group of varieties is two or three times fruiting throughout the summer. Due to the high return, even from a small area, you can stock up on berries for the whole winter for the future.

Mares de bois

Remontant strawberry cultivar bred in 1991 in France. The bush is low, the correct rounded shape. The variety easily tolerates winter in central Russia: the survival rate is 90-95%. Berry of the correct rounded shape. The variety is characterized by a sugary sweetness, will become a favorite delicacy of a small summer resident.

Variety Mara de Bois

Queen Elizabeth 2

Remontant strawberry variety bred by domestic botanists. The first harvest occurs at the beginning of June, the berry has an irregular shape. The second harvest ripens in mid-July, the fruit is large and regular in shape. The berry has a bright red color, the flesh is dense and juicy. The crop is suitable for transportation and freezing.

Queen Elizabeth 2

Albion

Remontant strawberry variety bred in 2006 by California breeders. The variety easily tolerates summer heat, due to large leaves. Fruiting lasts from May to August, subject to agrotechnical standards, up to 2 kg of berries can be obtained from a bush. The berry is large, cone-shaped. The crop is characterized by a pleasant aroma and attractive appearance.

Temptation

Remontant strawberry cultivar bred in England. The root system is powerful, the flower stalks are very long, which allows the plant to be used as an ornamental. Ampel type plant, berries grow not only on peduncles, but also on mustaches.

Early and new strawberry varieties

Early strawberry varieties begin to bloom with the first warmth. In the Urals, they are often damaged by return frosts, so it is better to cut them off in the open field so that the plants do not lose their strength for flowering in vain. In the southern regions, the first harvest can be harvested in May.

Elsanta

Mid-early strawberry variety bred at the end of the last century in Holland. The variety is sensitive to frost, it is recommended to grow in greenhouses. The bush is medium in size, with a small amount of whiskers and rosettes. Berry of large size, wide-conical shape. Elsanta is famous for its pleasant dessert taste: a balance of sugar and acid content. Berries will become a favorite delicacy of the whole family.

Variety Elsanta

Early maturing strawberry variety bred in 2005 in Italy. The bush has a powerful root system that easily tolerates Russian frosts. The yield per bush is 1.5-2 kg. The berries are slightly flattened conical in shape. Harvest of bright red color, moderate density resembles the structure of a watermelon. The rich sugar content will appeal to any gourmet. Resistant to anthracosis and powdery mildew.

Asia variety

Alba

Early maturing strawberry variety bred in Italy in 2003. The bush is medium in size, the leaves are large. The variety is characterized by a large number of whiskers and rosettes, due to which it multiplies quickly. Alba easily tolerates frost, but is very susceptible to drought. Berry bright red, elongated-conical shape. The fruits are characterized by a sweet dessert taste and wonderful aromas.

Variety Alba

Clery

Early maturing strawberry variety bred by Italian breeders. The bushes are small with pronounced dark green leaves. The variety easily tolerates temperature changes, is absolutely immune to diseases. A feature of the variety is the absolute identity of the berries on one bush, the correct conical shape.

Early maturing strawberry variety bred by Polish breeders. The bushes are tall but compact. The plant is resistant to the effects of the fungus, but very sensitive to earthworm mites. Leaves are low to the ground, flower stalks and berries are under the leaves: rotting of the fruit often occurs. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the ground under the bushes with straw bedding or covering material. Kama gives bright red fruits with high palatability.

Variety Kama

Marshmallow

An early maturing strawberry variety bred in Denmark. The bushes are tall, flower stalks are powerful with abundant flowering. In the presence of a snow cap, the plant can withstand up to -35 degrees. The absence of snow is fatal, at -8-10 degrees the bush begins to die. The berry is large, dark red, scallop-shaped.

Kimberley

Early maturing strawberry variety bred by Dutch breeders. The bushes are compact, richly covered with leaves. Leaves are medium sized and bright green. Usage is low. The average fruit weight is 15-20 grams. The berry is bright red in color, shaped like a heart with a brilliant sheen. A feature of the Kimberley variety is a pleasant taste: sweet and sour with a mild caramel flavor.

Large varieties of strawberries

Large-fruited varieties of strawberries take pride of place in the garden of any summer resident. It's great to see when the result of your labors barely fits in your hand.

Honey

An early maturing variety obtained in 1979 as a result of crossing Holiday and Vibrant varieties. The plant has increased frost resistance. The fruiting period lasts from late May to mid-June. The bush is characterized by a powerful root system, with a large number of antennae.

A mid-late strawberry cultivar developed in England. Bushes reach a height of 50-60 cm, powerful flower stalks with abundant berries. For breeding, mustaches are taken from two-year-old bushes. Peak yield occurs at 2-3 years, 2.5-3 kg per bush. Berry bright red color obtuse shape. A pleasant sweet and sour taste will appeal to the household.

Variety Lord

Gigantella

Mid-season strawberry variety bred by Dutch breeders. The bushes are characterized by large spreading leaves, it is recommended to plant no more than 4 bushes per square meter. Gigantella is demanding on sunlight and abundant watering. The berry is very large, bright scarlet in color, with dense pulp. A heavy harvest in early June will not go unnoticed by the household.

Variety Gigantella

Maxim

Mid-late strawberry variety, bred in the Netherlands. The plant is distinguished by a huge bush: up to 60 cm in diameter. The leaves are large corrugated, mustache and stalks as thick as a finger. The average yield per bush is 1.5-1.8 kg. Berries of extremely large sizes of bright red color. In shape and taste, the variety resembles a tomato. Maxim is the best variety for freezing.

Variety Maxim

Divnaya

Early ripe strawberry variety bred by domestic breeders in 1897 year. The bush is tall, on the central stem there are many small leaves. The variety is famous for its high frost resistance. Mustache formation occurs in large volume, sockets take root easily. Berry bright red, elongated conical shape. The fruits are dry, sweet and sour in taste. A high level of transportability is a key quality of the variety.

Variety Divnaya

Darselect

Mid-season strawberry variety, bred by French breeders as a result of crossing Elsanta variety. The bush is powerful, mustache formation takes place in large volume with abundant watering. A strong root system is disease resistant. Darselect does not tolerate hot weather, the lack of abundant watering adversely affects yields. The berry has a specific orange tint.

Festivalnaya

Mid-season strawberry variety, famous for its high yield. Berry bright red color elongated oblong shape. The fruits of the first ripening are very large, weighing up to 50 grams. The pulp is medium-dense specific pink color. The plant is resistant to disease, but susceptible to wilt (infections).

Variety Festivalnaya

Chamora Turushi

Late-ripening strawberry variety, presumably bred in Japan. Bush vigorous with high growth potential. Landing is carried out in squares, no more than 4 bushes per square meter. Despite the powerful root system, the plant is sensitive to fungal diseases. Berry brown color folded conical shape. Early ripe fruits reach a weight of 90-110 grams. By the end of fruiting, the ridge resembles a forest clearing, from which neither adults nor children can be torn off.

Variety Chamora Turusi

Zenga (Zengana)

Late-ripening strawberry variety, bred in the FRG as a result of crossing the Sieger variety with an unknown seedling. The bushes are tall with abundant leaves. The leaves are dark green with a characteristic sheen. The plant easily tolerates frost, but does not like heat. The berry is dark red in color with an expanded conical shape.

Marshall

Mid-season strawberry variety, bred back in 1890 by Marshall Ewell. The bush is tall, strongly leafy, with a large number of mustaches 15-18 cm long. A powerful root system easily tolerates hot summers and cold winters. The plant is famous for its high resistance to fungal diseases. Berries of large sizes, bright red color in the form of a scallop. The flesh is juicy bright red with a specific sourness. Thanks to the glossy surface, the berries will not go unnoticed.

Variety Marshall

Victoria

Mid-season strawberry variety brought by seafarers hundreds of years ago from America. The bush is tall with a powerful root system. Intense green leaves with a glossy surface. Berry bright red color of the correct conical shape. The pulp is dense. Victoria fruits are famous for their wonderful aroma, which is felt a few meters from the ridge.

Variety Victoria

Masha

Early ripe strawberry variety. Bushes of medium size, with high compactness. Usage is high, easily accepted. The plant is famous for its high disease resistance. Masha sensitively tolerates temperature changes: in the hot summer, burns appear on the leaves. The berries are huge: weighing up to 100 grams.

Variety Masha

Malvina

Late-ripening strawberry variety, bred in Germany by hybridization of several varieties. The bush is powerful, characterized by high resistance to diseases. Malvina requires frequent application of nitrogen fertilizers. Harvest ripens in early July, well preserved in rainy weather. The berry is large, bright red, with a sharp aroma very often attracts birds.

Variety Malvina

Just salivating from such beauty - I want to hurry summer and eat my strawberries from the garden. It is not easy to choose among so many best varieties of strawberries with a photo and description of one for planting - I want everything!

Source: http://belochka77.ru/luchshie-sorta-klubniki-foto. html

cultivation, planting, care in the open field

Many summer residents do not particularly bother with caring for strawberries - they grow and grow. It seems that this culture is quite unpretentious. In fact, she is very capricious. It is important to choose the right place for her, properly plant and constantly care for her.

Cultivation of strawberries

Now there are many varieties of strawberries that are resistant to heat and drought, but their resistance also has limits. In general, this culture does not like when the soil dries out very much. But even more she does not tolerate when the site is waterlogged. Therefore, it is important to choose the optimal place for it. The ideal option is a flat or elevated surface, or small slopes of the south, south-west or east direction (1) in a sheltered part of the site where cold north winds will not penetrate. This is especially important in winter - many varieties of strawberries are not very hardy.

Strawberries prefer loose and fertile soils, such as loam or sandy loam.

Strawberry planting

– Strawberries are now most often sold with a closed root system, in containers. In this form, it can be planted from early May to late September. In this case, there are no special problems with planting - it is only important that the seedling on the site be at the same level as in the pot - no higher, no lower, - says agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

But if strawberries have bare roots, that is, with an open root system (all kinds of scientific institutions sell this in the old fashioned way), it can be planted only in late summer - early autumn: from about August 15 to September 15 (2). However, if the autumn is planned to be warm and protracted, the planting period can be extended until September 15 - 20.

It is important to plant seedlings with an open root system as soon as possible, ideally on the same day they are bought.

Classic strawberry planting pattern:

Care of strawberries outdoors

Strawberries require care throughout the season - from late April to September. But often summer residents neglect this - they pay attention to it only until the moment of harvesting. And then the plants are forgotten. And this leads to the fact that next year the harvest is greatly reduced.

“Strawberries lay flower buds of the future crop in the middle of summer, in July, and at this time they need abundant watering,” recalls Svetlana Mikhailova.

Strawberries should be watered once a week in summer. If the beds are mulched, then less often - 1 time in 2 weeks. It is best to mulch plantings with peat, humus or compost with a layer of 3-5 cm (5).

3 feedings are enough for strawberries during the season:

Harvesting strawberries

Since strawberries ripen unevenly, they should be harvested every 3 to 4 days.

- If they are intended for transportation and storage, it is important not to overexpose them on the bush, because it is problematic to bring overripe fruits to the house - they will wrinkle and flow. But if you are going to make jam from strawberries, then it is better to wait until they are fully ripe or even a little overripe - in this case they will be sweeter, advises agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova.

When harvesting, strawberries should not be taken by the berry, but by the stalk and carefully pinched off. It is important that the green sepals remain - without them, the fruits deteriorate instantly.

Photo: pixabay.com

Strawberries should be placed in small containers - in deep containers, the berries will shift under the weight of their own weight. And in no case should they be sorted out - sort immediately at harvest, removing all damaged and rotten fruits. Rotten berries, by the way, must be buried in the soil - they cannot be left on the site, otherwise the disease will spread to other fruits.

It is better to harvest strawberries in the morning, when the dew subsides - at this time the berries are the most dense and dry.

Rules for storing strawberries

Strawberries are very tender and do not last long - a week at most. The best place for them is the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. The ideal temperature is 0 - 2 °C.

Strawberries can be stored in shallow plastic containers or in plastic bags (they should be opened slightly to allow the berries to breathe). But even better - in wooden containers or birch bark boxes. But in metal dishes, especially zinc, it is undesirable, in which the berries deteriorate much faster.

For winter use strawberries can be frozen whole or cut into pieces. It depends on how you are going to use them in the future. It is best to freeze in portioned plastic containers.

Popular questions and answers

We talked about growing strawberries with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova - we asked her the most popular questions of summer residents.

Which crops are best for strawberries?

Potatoes, early cabbages, beans and lettuce plants are good precursors for strawberries.

Can strawberries grow in the shade?

Strawberry is a photophilous plant. It can grow in the shade, but its yield will be very small, if at all. In addition, in the shade, she is more likely to get sick, because the plants will be weakened.

Do I need to cover strawberries for the winter?

Strawberries winter well under snow, but in regions with little snowy winters they need shelter. The first step is to mulch the soil on the plantation - with peat, humus or compost with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. And on top of the plants it is useful to throw straw or dry leaves with a layer of 5 cm, or potato tops - it will hold the snow.

Sources

  1. Lavrik P.I., Rybitsky N.A., Gavrilov I.S. Gardener's desk book // L.: Lenizdat, 1972 - 568 p.
  2. Egorov V.I., Nazaryan E.A. Handbook of gardening // M.

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