How do you winterize hydrangeas

How to winterize hydrangeas – to protect them from the cold

(Image credit: Getty Images / Julia Biallas)

Once you know how to winterize hydrangeas, you can protect your prized shrubs from the elements and enjoy their glorious blooms returning year after year.

With their colorful and showy flowers, hydrangeas make striking garden ideas for beds and borders, and wonderful container displays, so you wouldn't want to lose these floral stars during a cold snap through being unprepared.

Include winterizing hydrangeas in your list of winter garden ideas to ensure that, come the arrival of spring, your treasured plants spring back into life.

'Hydrangeas can usually withstand the winter temperatures but only if cared for properly. Ideally, you want to start caring for your hydrangeas in fall,' explains Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express .

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

How to winterize hydrangeas – do they all need protection?

Whether you need to winterize your hydrangeas depends on how cold the weather can get where you live.

'Hydrangeas that are exposed to winter temperatures of no less than 5-10ºF (-15 to -12ºC) do not need winter protection,' explains Chris Link, co-owner of Plant Addicts .

If, however, you live in a zone where winter temperatures typically dip below this level for prolonged periods, and you are growing hydrangeas, then an element of protection may be required.

'Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood should be protected in colder climates – zone 6 and below, ' Chris adds. This includes Hydrangea Macophylla – mopheads and lacecaps.

'Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, however – which includes Hydrangea paniculata and smooth hydrangeas – generally don't need any additional protection,' Chris advises.

(Image credit: National Trust)

Should hydrangeas be cut back for winter?

You can, winterize hydrangeas by cutting them back to try to get rid of any dead branches – this is something that can be added to your list when planning a winter garden.

There are various methods for pruning hydrangeas, and whether you should do this in late summer, fall, or leave them untouched until the following spring really depends on the type of hydrangeas you have and where you live.

'In zone 7, I keep hydrangeas untouched through the winter and cut them back to the second or third bud from the end of each stem,' says David Angelov, founder of Plant Parenthood garden design and education in Massachusetts.

'Take out all of the previous year's dead stems, up to 3-4 inches from the base. This ensures you're not cutting live wood in the fall.

'You should not cut hydrangeas back all the way every year, arbitrarily, or you won't have flowers on those hydrangeas that flower on old wood – the stems that came up the previous year,' he adds.

If you do choose to cut back hydrangeas before the winter, then 'aim to do this before the first frosts. If you wait too long, the open cuttings from the dead branches could freeze and ruin your whole plant,' explains Chris Bonnett.

Do so at the same time as you are cutting back other plants, such as the method you would adopt for overwintering geraniums.

(Image credit: Getty Images/ Olga Seifutdinova)

How do you prepare hydrangeas for winter?

To prepare hydrangeas for winter in colder areas, add a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the crown and roots from freezing temperatures.

'It is also important to properly insulate the hydrangea – you can use a fleece for this or create a frame around the plant and fill this with things like pine cones and leaves,' explains Chris Bonnett.

To do this:

Create a frame around the hydrangea plant using branches, 'or if you want something more sturdy that can withstand snowfall, then use chicken wire instead,' says Chris.
Next add in some insulating materials into the enclosure, such as oak leaves, pine cones, straw or similar.
'Be careful not to break the tips off any of the branches as this is where the flower buds have already formed,' says Chris Link.
'This frame or cover must be left on the hydrangea all winter and into the spring until the threat of the last frost has passed.'

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

How to winterize hydrangeas in pots

Hydrangeas can make one of the best winter plants for pots and borders because, if you leave the flower heads in place, they look ethereally beautiful right through to pruning in spring.

'Any types of hydrangeas growing in pots typically need a little extra protection in colder climates,' says Chris Link.

Try to move the pots into an area where they will be less exposed to freezing temperatures, such as a greenhouse or summerhouse, if possible.

Where the pots can not be moved under cover, one method is to 'place the pot in a bag and fill around the pot with leaves and other garden material, then gently tie the bag together at the top of the pot,' advises Jenny Rydebrink CEO of Gardenize .

'I place the pot in a sheltered part of the garden and then in spring, when the sun and warmth return, I unpack the pot and start to give the plant water and fertilizer again,' she adds.

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Rachel is senior content editor, and writes and commissions gardening content for homesandgardens.com, Homes & Gardens magazine, and its sister titles Period Living Magazine and Country Homes & Interiors. She has written for lifestyle magazines for many years, with a particular focus on gardening, historic houses and arts and crafts, but started out her journalism career in BBC radio, where she enjoyed reporting on and writing programme scripts for all manner of stories. Rachel then moved into regional lifestyle magazines, where the topics she wrote about, and people she interviewed, were as varied and eclectic as they were on radio. Always harboring a passion for homes and gardens, she jumped at the opportunity to work on The English Home and The English Garden magazines for a number of years, before joining the Period Living team, then the wider Homes & Gardens team, specializing in gardens.

It's a wrap! Here's how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter.

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Here’s expert advice from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, MN on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season. (Their zip code may just contain more hydrangea trees and shrubs than just about anywhere in the U.S. — in other words, they know!)

There is a chill in the air and the signs of autumn are everywhere. Soon it will be time to put the garden to bed. All season long hydrangeas reward us with big, beautiful, abundant blooms. It’s fair to say they are givers. Now, it’s time to give back. With goodnight kisses and sweat dreams wishes, the time to tuck in hydrangeas is upon us.

Here in Minnesota, unpredictable winter weather extremes, snow totals, and freeze/thaw cycles can swing as wildly as our vitamin d deprived, cabin-fever-fueled moods. Although many hydrangeas are considered hardy, all of this can throw them for a loop. They need some attention in order to survive the winter and coming back bigger and better next year. While it’s true that hydrangeas grown in warmer climates don’t require as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there’s no one who wouldn’t be grateful for a bit of TLC right about now.

Implement these steps to maximize your hydrangea potential so you will be the giver of this time next season!

(Is it time to prune? Yes and no. Here’s our advice on which hydrangeas to prune now and which can wait for spring.)

Don’t Stop Watering

Take the pledge! Raise your right hand and say “I will water my hydrangeas until the ground freezes solid. ” Very good. It’s vital to water hydrangeas deeply and consistently as they are thirsty plants by nature. Their name basically means hydration, but we don’t need to geek out with Latin right now! Cool, drying winter winds suck the moisture right out of the plants – and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. Doesn’t have to be hot to be dry!

In areas where a freeze is not an issue, water deeply but infrequently throughout the winter depending on the amount of rainfall you receive.

Here’s how:
One way is to make a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, fill with water, and set at the base of the plant, allowing the water to trickle out slow. Another is to turn on your hose to a slow trickle and place at the base of the plant for an hour or so.

Give Them One Last Hearty Meal

Give your hydrangeas a boost for the next growing season by adding compost to your beds in the fall. After a good night’s sleep, everybody feels better with a good breakfast in their belly. The same is true for hydrangeas. They’ll be hungry for some good compost after a long winter’s nap. Applied now, compost can break down overwinter, making nutrients readily available in spring. Even in areas without a deep freeze, a few inches of compost is a good idea. We’re only talking compost here! Don’t offer your hydrangeas nitrogen-rich fertilizers which might incline them to put out new leafy growth.

Here’s how:
In colder zones, when the ground has frozen and before applying mulch, top dress with compost, well-aged manure or other organic matter. This nutrient- rich, organic fertilizer will break down over the winter and nutrients will be available to the plant in spring. In warmer zones, apply compost in late fall or early winter.

Mulch Matters

In colder zones mulching protects and insulates the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from extreme winter temperatures; in warmer zones it helps keep moisture in and weeds out. If all goes as it should, snow acts as a natural insulator. Weird winters with little snowfall and drastic temperature swings are detrimental to plants. To give hydrangeas their best chance at success, apply a layer of chunky mulch around the base of the plant. Decorative mulch is helpful but we recommend straw, marsh hay, or fallen leaves.

Here’s how:
After the ground has frozen (or in warmer zones late fall or early winter) and you’ve top-dressed with compost apply a 6”-8” layer of mulch. This insulates plants and protects plants from the heave-ho of spring freeze/thaw cycles that can push them right out of the soil. Mulching too early invites rodents to make this their cozy winter dwelling, causes rotting and disease, or tricks the plant into thinking it’s time to wake up. Be patient, just because your neighbors are doing it early, doesn’t mean you have to too.

Keep Them Cozy

Whether or not hydrangeas need protection depends on how cold the winter temperatures drop. If the air temperature doesn’t go below 0 degrees (zone 7) there is no need for winter protection. In colder climates, wrap or completely cover marginally hardy hydrangeas. This is especially important for those that bloom on old wood, such as mop head/big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla). However, it’s good to note that the newer varieties of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas bloom on both new and old wood. Good for them, good for us! Generally, hardier hydrangeas such as the paniculata and arborescens types don’t need extra winter protection, but extreme cold can cause die-back of their branches. If a colder than normal winter in predicted, consider covering.

Here’s how:
Loosely wrap plants with a couple layers of burlap, making sure to secure it with sturdy twine. Another option is to make a mulch mountain, covering the majority of the plant. This method works best for newly planted, smaller specimens.

There’s Still Time To Plant!

Here in Zone 4, we are able to grow the first three types of hydrangeas; in warmer zones (zones 5 to 9) gardeners can also grow oak leaf hydrangeas. Fall is the best time for planting shrubs. Just be sure to follow the steps above, especially watering and mulching.

Here are a few of our favorites that you can plant right now for glorious blooms next spring.

Panicle Hydrangeas

Sometimes called PeeGee hydrangeas, these are late bloomers (summer into early fall). They’re covered with elongated, cone-shaped flower heads that start out white or green before blushing into pinks and peachy tones as the season progresses.

Strawberry Shake™ Hydrangea

Long-lasting white flowers quickly mature to a rich strawberry pink and deep rose as cool fall weather arises. This is a compact panicle hydrangea with sturdy stems that holds the beautiful flowers aloft. Up to 5' tall and 4' wide. Zones 4–8.

Candy Apple™ Hydrangea

This compact selection features big lime-green panicles that mature to pure white and are held atop strong, sturdy stems that don’t flop. Flowers and foliage take on rosy hues as temperatures drop in fall. Up to 5' tall and wide. Zones 4–8.

Mophead Hydrangeas

French, big leaf, mop head, call them what you may, these are the classic, high-summer hydrangeas with large round or lace cap flower heads. While white varieties stay white, those that start out pink or blue can range in color depending on the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. (Note: Not all macrophyllas are reliably hardy in the coldest zones, and a tough winter can shut down their flower power.)

Blue Enchantress® Hydrangea

Striking ruby-black stems support big mophead flowers on this exquisite re-bloomer. The large blooms turn blue in acidic soils and have a pink hue in alkaline soils. They mature to cream-splashed green. Up to 5' tall and wide. Zones 4–9.

Seaside Serenade® Hamptons Hydrangea

Huge ball-shaped blooms with thick, intense-pink florets on amazingly tough stems. The naturally compact habit has robust foliage with a maroon color in the spring and cinnamon-red in the fall. Up to 3.5' tall and 3' wide. Zones 4–9.

Smooth Hydrangeas

Native to North America and one of the prettiest, most useful flowering landscape shrubs, smooth hydrangeas bloom from late spring through summer into fall. Their big, round, flowers heads start out bright white and fade to limey green in the autumn.

Seaside Serenade® Bar Harbor Hydrangea

There's no need for another Annabelle option when you have Bar Harbor!

This is an extraordinary new, compact variety perfect for smaller spaces. Prolific amounts of big, white flowers turn heads all summer long, and the straight, sturdy stems stand tall even in heavy rain. These are perfect for borders, containers, and cutting gardens. Up to 4' tall and wide. Zones 3–8.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

While not as cold tolerant as other types of hydrangeas, if your zone works for the oak leaf varieties, you need to plant them. Native to the U.S., they bloom best in areas where summers are somewhat hot and can thrive in much dryer locations than their mophead cousins.

Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea

Large, white blooms cover this shrub in summer and quickly age to a deep pink color. These large blooms remain upright on strong stems even after heavy rains. Oak-like foliage turns mahogany in fall. Up to 3.5' tall and 5' wide. Zones 5–9.

Snow Queen Oakleaf Hydrangea

Large, long clusters of flowers are held upright above the oak-like foliage. The flowers emerge white and become rose-pink in fall as leaves turn deep red-bronze. The exfoliate tan-brown bark is beautiful in winter. Up to 5' tall and 6' wide. Zones 5–9.

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When to prune hydrangeas | Grow Beautifully

6 years ago at 5:46 AM

[…] pruning requirements. Before you reach for the pruners, determine which species is growing.(Need advice on putting your hydrangeas to bed for the winter? We’ve got you […]

Kaye

6 years ago at 8:54 AM

Maybe I missed it but should hydrangeas be cut back at all in the Fall?

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 3:10 AM

Hi Kaye--it depends on the kind of hydrangea. It's all here in this companion post: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/

Marjorie

6 years ago at 9:54 PM

My hydrangeas never bloom! I bought 3 gorgeous verigated lacecaps...paid $75 each...never have seen them bloom since! Do they need a lot of sun, shade?????

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 1:19 AM

It's a misnomer that hydrangeas need shade. In the warmest climates they like some afternoon shade (and really, who doesn't!) but otherwise they do well in full sun. Tell me about where you have them planted, how old they are, and when you prune them. Maybe I can help you figure out this conundrum.

Judy Piroyan

6 years ago at 12:04 AM

Apparently you do not recommend cutting hydrangeas to the ground in fall? My Annabelle was very floppy this year- branches splayed out like a fan. I live in zone 3/4.

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 8:36 AM

Late winter or early spring is best. They bloom on new wood. As long as you prune before you see new growth, you're good to go.

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 8:31 AM

Endless Summer---this is a mophead thats been bred to bloom on both old and new wood. Can be pruned anytime. Quick Fireyes, this is a paniculata Boboalso a paniculata Pink Diamondlikely a paniculata Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood. in late winter or early spring before new growth begins cut stems back to about 18-24 inches high.

Peggy

6 years ago at 10:38 AM

Thank you for the advice!

Cliff Larson

6 years ago at 6:59 AM

How about some information on how to prune hydrangea's?

Kate Karam

6 years ago at 10:56 PM

Hi Cliff--there's a companion story about how and when to prune hydrangeas here: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/. If you have any specific questions, please let us know!

Deb Colletti

6 years ago at 5:06 AM

Please let me kn ow when to prune my hydrangeas.

Donna Mansfield

6 years ago at 7:38 AM

Enjoyed your article about hydrangeas. We live on the west side of the mountains in WA state and hydrangeas grow very well here. Like the idea of giving them some compost this time of the year.

Teresa

5 years ago at 10:58 AM

Love, love, love hydrangeas! I found this article helpful.

Deb Machel

5 years ago at 11:15 AM

My hydrangea did not bloom this year, and the leaves looked like they were spotted! Help!!

Gloria

5 years ago at 1:01 AM

Do I cut of the dried flowers

Mariann Kukla

5 years ago at 3:35 AM

We have many different types of hydrangeas and many have ?stopped blooming or have had fewer and fewer blooms each year. Our Our Nikki Blue have only 2 blooms this year. Big Daddy no blooms and Endless Summer 3 blooms. We do not trim these shrubs. Any suggestions?

Anne Fitzpatrick

5 years ago at 10:26 AM

I live in Queens, NY. I haven't cut back my hydrangea in a few years. Today someone told me I should cut it way down, but I felt it was too later & I will lose next spring's flowers.

Dee

5 years ago at 10:13 PM

I think it depends on the type of hydrangea you have. Remember next year's blooms grow on old wood, new wood or both.

Dee

5 years ago at 10:05 PM

I was wondering....I have 3 Cityline Rio Bigleaf Hydrangea which I planted in July 2017....do I cover all of the plant with the burlap or am I just wrapping the burlap around each plant?

Dee

5 years ago at 10:11 PM

I should have told you I live in Canada and the winters could sometime be very harsh with -15 degrees Celsius temperatures. I had gotten a lot of beautiful blooms this summer. I am worried about the branches breaking should heavy snow or freezing rain fall on them. I considered putting a plastic laundry basket with the holes on the sides over the plants to protect them. Is this crazy? I don't want my Cityline Rio Bigleaf Hydrangeas to die.

J. Nicatra

5 years ago at 7:49 AM

Love my

J. Nicatra

5 years ago at 7:50 AM

Love my plants

Michele Fabbro

5 years ago at 8:22 PM

All of my hydrangeas are mopheads. I plan to follow your suggestions above to prepare them for winter but "do I cut them" and if so, how much" for winter. Thanks

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:48 PM

It's all right here: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/ but the simple advice is you prune macrophylla hydrangeas in summer or early fall.

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:58 PM

I have just found this message, so apologies for late response. Here's the post with the info: http://growbeautifully.monrovia.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas/ The short answer is you prune mopheads in late summer or early fall after they have finished blooming for the season. Remove up to one-third of the total stems each season, starting with the weakest shoots, both old and new ones. Cut these right down to the ground and remove. Whats left are a combination of old productive wood and strong new stems that will flower next season.

Debra Lorett

5 years ago at 4:07 AM

I had newly planted hydrangeas in September, in the first if November we had frost and some nights of freeze, which I put straw around and over my plants. Now its warmed up to 65-70 end of November they look droopy. Will it be ok to water the hydrangeas this late in the year and not harm them? Thank you

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 10:44 PM

They should be looking fairly wintery by now so no worries about that. As for watering, here's the deal--as long as you can water and assuming you are not having rains, you should continue to do so. It's really easy for plants to become desiccated in winter and dry up which affects roots. If you have solid frozen ground, don't bother to water, otherwise a good drink once a week is a great idea.

Gloria Kelly

5 years ago at 12:44 AM

Why is it not difficult to find information on how to protect your hydrangeas for the winter months but almost impossible to find out when to take the burlap protection off? I live in Pittsburgh and have still not been able to find that information in a reliable way. Most sites, including yours, say to take the protection off in the spring. Does that mean when the nights do not drop below 32 degrees so that the buds don't freeze? Could you please let me know? Thank you!

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 11:02 PM

So, I spoke with the grower at our CT nursery and here is what she had to say: "Thats exactly the case with regards to temperature. Its important to protect the base of the plant where new growth will start. Its especially important to leave protection on the plant when all chances of frost have past. One early frost can toast your only buds on Hydrangeas that bloom off of old growth. Generally in the north thats Memorial Day weekend, but some years its warmer around Mothers Day. Freezing cold temperatures can dry out the old growth and increase the amount of dead branches you could be pulling/cleaning out in the spring. :-) hope that helps!"

Frances White

5 years ago at 10:52 PM

Please share your opinion as to when the covering and mulch should be removed. I don't want to wait too long but want don't want to do it too early either. My hydrangeas are in the Chigo area.

Kate Karam

5 years ago at 9:47 PM

So, I spoke with the grower at our CT nursery and here is what she had to say: Its important to protect the base of the plant where new growth will start. Its especially important to leave protection on the plant when all chances of frost have past. One early frost can toast your only buds on Hydrangeas that bloom off of old growth. Generally in the north thats Memorial Day weekend, but some years its warmer around Mothers Day. Freezing cold temperatures can dry out the old growth and increase the amount of dead branches you could be pulling/cleaning out in the spring. ? hope that helps!

Claudette Collins

4 years ago at 7:27 AM

Because our hydrangea beds did not bloom (lots of lush green growth) lst summer, we didn't prune the plant last fall. What do we do with the 2 foot stems this spring? They are "Endless Summer" variety.

Claudette Collins

4 years ago at 1:14 AM

2 years ago we cut our Endless summer hydrangea back to 3 or 4 inches in late fall. These plants had bloomed profusely since planted 3 years prior. Last summer, we didn't get any blooms at all until late September and then only a few out of 12 plants with a north west exposure. So last fall we were told not to prune so we only removed the few blooms. Now we have the long branches and don't know what to cut off if anything. Please advise.

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 10:50 PM

Hi Claudette--sounds like a clear case of over-pruning (and I am wondering if your plants get enough light). Endless Summer blooms on both old and new wood. When you cut all that old wood, you cut away many of the existing flower buds. You got some blooms late in the season from buds that grew on the new growth of that same year. Your best course of action right now is to do NOTHING and see what happens this year. Let the plant have a chance to reset itself and then this fall, cut back the spent blooms. If the shape of the plant bothers you, you can prune it back by 1/3 - 1/2 in fall but once again you will be sacrificing flowers for one year, even two. Most mophead hydrangeas including Endless Summer need only minimal pruning.

victoria hesselbacher

4 years ago at 4:03 AM

Would you kindly recommend a journal or periodical or article or plant for flowering shrubs, trees, & hedges for zone 10, Saint Petersburg, FL? Specifically, I have recently relocated and am seeing young panicle hydrangea trees, and blooming hedges on Snell island in Saint Petersburg, FL. Thank you, victoria

victoria hesselbacher

4 years ago at 4:06 AM

I need a resource for flowering shrubs, trees, & hedges for Zone 10, Saint Petersburg, FL? Specifically, I have recently relocated and am seeing young hydrangea trees, and blooming hedges on Snell island in Saint Petersburg, FL. Thank you.

Bev Braun

4 years ago at 11:34 PM

My endless summer hydrangea which are about 10 years old havent bloom but a couple flowers at all in 5 years! We fertilize with malorganite and have added the powdered to make them blue. I pruned them years ago but have been afraid to prune after they failed to bloom.. have I totally ruined them?

Lauretta Peterson

4 years ago at 1:45 AM

I live in zone 3 and have planted Haas Halo shrubs, nine of them. How do I care for them for the winter?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 11:29 PM

Wow, that's cold! Lovely smooth hydrangea variety that's very cold tolerant. Typically a dense snow cover will provide all the protection your plants need, but it never hurts to top them in late fall with a layer of chopped leaves or other organic mulch.

Marion

4 years ago at 9:49 PM

Last year I cut my hydrangea plant low 6-7 inches above the ground. It has not grown back. Should I remove the plant or may it still come back next year(s)? Thank you in advance.

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 11:05 PM

Hi Marion--by any chance do you know the type of hydrangea you have?

Eric Sykes

4 years ago at 3:33 AM

Thank you for this information on the winterizing of Hydrangea , have 4 varieties.

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 8:51 PM

Hi Eric--you are a hydrangea collector! We're glad it was helpful. Here's to a cold but not too brutal winter!

SUSAN BIRKENSHAW

4 years ago at 2:46 AM

On Oct 7 2016 you wrote a blog about Winterizing htdrsngeas and at the very top is a photo of pinkinsh hydrangeas with no identification could you please tell me the specific name of this one? Many thanks - S

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 5:30 AM

Hi Susan--that is Limelight Hardy Hydrangea (H. paniculata 'Limelight'). Here's the link (and I will add it to the story---thank you!): https://www. monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/3049/limelight-hardy-hydrangea/

Judy

4 years ago at 12:21 AM

When do I cut back hydrangeas? or do I need to?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 3:33 AM

If you never pruned your hydrangeas they would be fine. The reason for pruning is to spur new growth, remove damaged branches, and manage size. The time to prune hydrangeas varies by the type of shrub.

Donna

4 years ago at 11:47 PM

Helpful sight. I have a city line Berlin in a pot. Outside all summer, brought inside when started to snow last week. Radical freeze/thaw cycles in northern Wyoming. I will overwinter it in garage, plant outside in late spring. Any advice to keep it hardy once it lives in the ground full time?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 4:03 AM

Um SNOW?! Wow, that seems early. The Cityline series is hardy to zone 5 which might be a bit warmer than your zone's minimum temperatures A few tips (1) plant where the shrub has some shelter from high winds which can stress it out (2) apply several inches of mulch at the base of the plant in late fall to provide insulation and (3) hope for more snow which helps a lot. Do not be surprised it it takes a few years to settle in. It might skip a bloom cycle or be sparse from year to year. Or it may surprise you and be totally happy. Thanks for the great question.

Laurie

4 years ago at 10:05 AM

I want to trim the height of my mophead hydrangeas. How do I do this?

Kate Karam

4 years ago at 1:03 AM

Hi Laurie--At this point (late October) if you cut back your hydrangea, it is a very distinct possibility that you will remove buds that have grown this year set to flower next year. If you will wait until after they have finished blooming (likely late summer depending on the type), you can trim then. Try not to cut back by more than 1/3 of the height. You can always cut back again the next year if you don't reach the desired size. I hope this helps. Kate

Meg

4 years ago at 9:16 PM

I have a limelight hydrangea bush and a tree that were planted in the fall of 2014 and were beautiful this year but very overgrown and weighted down. I did only minimal research. and did not see this site, before deciding to cut back significantly last week, leaving 3 feet on the tree branches and 2 feet on the shrub. Since this variety grows on old wood, it seemed like a reasonable choice to bring it under control but the more I read, I am concerned that I have done permanent damage. I am in central New York so temperatures dip down to zero for a part of January. I plan to put compost down and was thinking I should wrap the plants in burlap to protect them since I have cut them down so severely. Have I killed these plants or should I just take precautions and hope for the best?

Alexandra Parker

4 years ago at 7:39 AM

Help....It is spring in FL now & I think I trimmed back my new hydranae too much. There are tiny buds ( a couple),. How can I bring it back to life?

rivercircle

4 years ago at 11:35 PM

Can anyone shed some light on my question? I have come to realize that my big leaf hydrangeas need winter cover to prevent winter damage in my cold winter climate. My question is, should I remove the cover prior to last frost to prevent any damage to the protected plant? Our days are warming nicely, but I still want to prevent any fungal type problems due to the impaired airflow to my large shrub. Thanks for any insights.

Karen Lea Cline

4 years ago at 11:48 PM

wondering if a plant was left outside , looking dead . what to do to bring it back is it possible?

Elaine

4 years ago at 3:58 PM

Would like to grow a white Hydrangea plant . Live in the snow cold country of idaho - any suggestions of which kind ? We have deers/ Bears and critters around ?

Debra

3 years ago at 2:20 AM

What is your zone? Annabelle may be perfect - to zone 4.

Lorraine Belcourt

3 years ago at 3:40 AM

Do I cut my new hydrangea back when preparing it for winter?

Jan Conti

3 years ago at 1:49 AM

I need a easier way to winterize the hydrangea plants I have 5 in a row. I m a senior with arthritis .

Lisa

3 years ago at 10:00 PM

Hi. I am in zone 5,N.E. Pa., and i want to over winter my potted hydrangea.I have no garage but am thinking about putting it in the open woodshed where it will be exposed to the cold but partially protected. Would that work with some protection on top and occasional water? Also, if it's protected from snow do I add water all winter,should it be warm water so it gets absorbed before it freezes?

Trish Lodor

3 years ago at 3:50 AM

This has been so helpful! Thank you!

Kathy Gilliland

3 years ago at 12:47 AM

I am a new hydrangea owner & we are experiencing our first freezes of the year. I have read you information which is incredibly informative but still have a couple of questions. Although it has been freezing st night, I have been covering the plant to protect it. Do I leave it uncovered & let it freeze to kill the foliage before pruning ( this is its first year so it is only about a foot or 2 tall) or just cut back now. Also do I let it go dormant before mulching and covering for winter?

Jody

3 years ago at 12:35 AM

My hydrangeas are in pots not in the ground. How should I winterize them? I live in MN as well. Thanks

M.J.

3 years ago at 4:26 AM

I have 8 Endless Summer plants. Can I use peat moss to cover the base of the plants for winter? (zone 4)

Lil Jernigan

3 years ago at 12:30 AM

What do you do with a root ball given to you in October in zone 7-9. Do we plant? Keep watered? Or just let it sit out of frost area?

Julie Dembiczak

3 years ago at 5:28 AM

I live in Chisholm Minnesota and I have 2 limelight Panicle Hydrangeas. Will the deer eat them if I do not cut off the flowers? Am I supposed to cut off the flowers in the fall? What would you suggest? I live in the country with deer around.

Jill Krygowski

3 years ago at 8:07 AM

We just got snow here on Halloween. .before I could do any hydrangeas prepping..I have 4 beautiful plants this year..but not sure how to care for them for the the 4 seasons..I'm in mid Illinois, will county. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Lyla E.

3 years ago at 11:52 PM

Thanks for this great article answering about any concern I had.

Carolyn Tanner

3 years ago at 10:20 PM

great information..... one question..my plants are tall, short, stubby , thin foliage... many plants in several areas .protected by tall brick walls, mulched in late September. buds are big and healthy. Do you or should I trim back some of the tall reaching branches ? Thanks Carol

Robin E Brown-Wood

3 years ago at 8:27 AM

this article was supposed to be about pruning hydrangeas for winter; that was never addressed!! not helpful at all for ME as that is the question i had regarding my hydrangea......

Jon Thorne

3 years ago at 6:41 AM

Mop head , container rasised, 1-1. 5ft tall central west Texes zone 7? How should I assure rebloom in spring? Thanks Jon

Janet

3 years ago at 11:30 PM

I have a Petite Hydrangea that is about five years old. Im in western Pa, so it gets cold during the winter but not like Minnesota. Its in a bed in the front of my house decorated with red rock. Should I put some sort of protection on the ground? This will cover up the rock though. In the past after cutting it back, I sprinkled some fertilizer on top of the rock at the base of the plant...that was about it. I also trimmed the branches...allowing them to remain about 10 high. Any problem with this? It seems to work. I fertilize in the spring too.

Kate Karam

3 years ago at 6:29 AM

Hi Janet--you are doing everything right except I would not fertilize in the fall as this only encourages new growth that could end up getting zapped by the cold. As for winter protection, there is no need to do more than add a few inches of mulch to the base or pile fallen leaves around the base both of which can help. Keep watering if you get a warm snap. All that said, it is not impossible to get a late cold blast that can impact flowering but there's not much you can really do about that. Enjoy your hydrangeas--real garden treasures!

Pat Arent

3 years ago at 3:46 AM

When do I cut off t he dead blooms and how far down to I cut? to the ground?

Chris Glazier

2 years ago at 5:35 AM

No I just read about ones blooming on old wood may be setting buds farther down. Early enough in year maybe take longer cuts. You would only cut to the ground during major reconstruction i believe and should take a couple times to do it down to where it will fill in better. Though some that down to the ground might re grow in a bad year.

Lori Bennett

2 years ago at 9:01 AM

I live in Canada - Calgary, Alberta. So you know it gets cold up here. Can a Hydrangea survive a winter up here?

Sharon

2 years ago at 1:12 AM

Great information! I live in Wisconsin, but conditions are similar to Minnesota for winter. Thank you for the great advice!

How to Select the Right Hydrangea for Your Garden – Grow Beautifully

2 years ago at 3:13 AM

[…] Get tips to Prepare Your Hydrangeas for Winter […]

MarilynCarrol Grondine

2 years ago at 4:40 AM

I have a Hydrangea in a flower pot, and I live in Minnesota. Currently it is sitting outside on the patio. How should I care for it this winter?

Janet

2 years ago at 3:33 AM

Thank you for your advise. It is greatly appreciated

Eveline Kasner

2 years ago at 8:14 AM

Do I cut all my flowers off now and do I cut my branches back?

Becky Craig

2 years ago at 7:39 AM

I have a cotton candy hydrangea. It has only grown about 1 1/2 feet tall. I've ahd it for 4 years. this year it didn't bloom. It has a lot of wood from previous years that nothing grows on. It's totally in the shade. I live in Kansas City area. Do I need to cut the wood before winter or wait till spring? Or how close to the ground do I cut it?

Jen

2 years ago at 11:52 AM

I have 3 Bobo hydrangeas I planted this spring after redoing my landscaping. I planted them in a rock bed in front of my house. How would I winterize them to make sure they come back next spring. It was a lot of work to redo that landscaping so anything to avoid extra junk to grow within the rocks would be best! Thank you for your response!!!

Linda Hutten

2 years ago at 12:20 AM

I have the everblooming Monrovia plant that is five years old last year beautiful bloomsthis year 2020 huge plant but only 1 flower I live in Buffalo Ny cold winters I believe zone7. To prepare for winter for the first time I plan to cut plant down put mulch and compost down. I have never cut the plant down hope that is ok

Glenn Eacker

2 years ago at 11:01 PM

Should I cut off the flower heads? I have both panicula and mophead types. They are growing under a pine tree, and have done really well, after being planted just last fall. I live about a mile from Lake Michigan on our west side. The big lake does moderate our winters compared to inland areas. Thanks!

Bonita

2 years ago at 3:10 AM

Thank you for the info! I will go to the store to get "compost". What kind of compost? Is "mushroom compost" ok?

DON EWERS

2 years ago at 9:35 PM

No mention about pruning?

Nate

2 years ago at 7:58 AM

Do you cut them back? Prune?

Peggy Cook

2 years ago at 8:37 AM

I was also interested in how to winterize for a hydrangea vine which I just purchased this summer. Should I also wrap it and use mulch after the ground freezes. We live in southwestern Michigan. I just looked up the tag and it says it is a Hydrangea anomala var. petiolaris with glossy green, heart shaped leaves on a woody deciduous vine with while lacecap flowers blooming in June/July. Exfoliating cinnamon brown older barkfor zone 4.

Stephanie Dareing

2 years ago at 11:20 PM

I put in several Annabelle Hydrangeas this year. Well the leaves began curling and no flowers. I learned it was from a worm that destroys the DNA. Should I destroy these plants and put something else there? I am so disappointed.

Sylvia Elise Bozzo

2 years ago at 7:34 AM

I am in a "cold" zone ... snow already, (8") but most has melted. This year I had very healthy looking plants (leaves), etc., but no blooms. Is my "ground" the problem? Did I prune incorrectly? (I cut fairly short last fall before the snow). Do I wait to cut in the springtime rather than now?

Jan Elsea

2 years ago at 4:00 AM

Can I cut back Oak Leaf plants as they have become to large for the area? Will the flowers come back in the Spring or will it take a couple of growing seasons for them to return? Thanks.

Alexa Johnson

2 years ago at 5:36 AM

Hi Jan, here's the skinny: Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on the previous seasons growth. So, if you prune them right after bloom, you should get blooms the following year. However, if you need to cut them back really hard (more than a third of the growth), you might not get blooms the next year. But, you'll still be able to enjoy the lovely foliage and fall color while you wait for your blooms to return.

Mary L Simmons

2 years ago at 1:46 AM

Thank you for info

Pamela Coons

2 years ago at 1:51 AM

I have several variations of hydrangea in the ground and 2 in pots. What is the best way to keep the healthy over winter. I live In Virginia Beach where the weather changes a lot.

Heidi Mason

2 years ago at 5:05 AM

very helpful thank you

Rozella Smith

2 years ago at 6:30 AM

When do you cut them back?

Joan woods

2 years ago at 12:01 PM

I just received a hydrangea plant for Valentine’s. I needs know how to take care it in pot, it been in -3 up 10 degrees now it in 30’s. I need help.Joan

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 1:54 PM

Wait until temperatures are above freezing before you move it outside. Keep in mind that not all hydrangeas are hardy in cold areas, so make sure it is hardy where you live if you were planning on planting it in the ground. A local garden center can give you more information about growing hydrangeas in your climate.

Barb

2 years ago at 7:10 PM

Where’s Kate? Her consistent and knowledgeable answers are truly missed! :-)

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 9:40 AM

That's so sweet! I'll let her know you said that. Kate's not with Monrovia anymore, but you'll see a few posts from her soon; she's doing some freelance work for us. We've got a new blog writer coming in at the end of the month and she's awesome. You're going to love her! So keep an eye out for Emily.

Karen

2 years ago at 11:25 AM

Great info! Do you have any guidance on when and how to uncover? I am in zone 5b and it is warming up, I want to remove the leaves so they don't rot but am afraid of potential late season frosts.

Megan McConnell

2 years ago at 11:43 AM

My best advice is to check with a local garden center or other experts in your area. They are going to know what is best for your climate. Besides that, try googling the average last frost date in your area. That's a good time to uncover them, but still keep your eye on the weather forecast. If they predict a late frost, you can throw a cover back over them for the night.

Gay Fitzgerald

1 year ago at 7:12 AM

I planted my hydrangea in cement Victorian urns. They are too heavy to move. I live in Eastern Pa. Outside of Harrisburg. I’m looking for the best way to cover them for the winter. I know they should be watered until freezing temps but I’m afraid the soil will freeze. Any help would be welcomed!

Emily

1 year ago at 9:00 AM

Hello, try a thick 1-3" layer of mulch to insulate the soil and covering the plant with burlap. Good luck!

Howard G Kacsh

1 year ago at 6:52 AM

this is a first time having these kind of plants. they look beautiful everywhere else but our home. We planted 6 Summer CrushEndless Bigleaf (3. 9 gal/14.9 L ) it reads fun/part sun and many of the flowers are turning black. most to all are fine, they had beautiful red color and the color is lost. bought Holly tone for color and plants. we get west sun in morning. will these plants come back next year? I've watered when needed and only bought that food for plants when I went into an excellent nursery. We love the plants but would appreciate your advice in this matter.. thank you Howard Kacsh

Emily

1 year ago at 11:38 AM

Hi Howard, we don't grow that variety, so don't have any specific advice for it. However, I would expect that it will return next year -- hopefully healthier! In the meantime, remove the spent flowers and double-check the amount of fertilizer and/or water it needs. Sometimes overwatering and overfertilizing can stress the plant. Good luck in the spring!

Monica the flower lady

1 year ago at 4:23 PM

Thank goodness for ur help I have 5 new hydrangeas zone 8 all mop head n want them to survive the winter two however are miniatures. I gave them fertilizer to winterize them last fall n they grew 5 times their size when originally purchased might have to give one away bc three r huge! So I will compost n mulch with nugget mulch this winter ty!!!

Roberta

1 year ago at 2:00 PM

I have a small Annabelle hydrangea (based on the photos above). She is in a small pot. I fed her and she has lots of new foliage. It is now September. I live in zone 7. Do I put her in the ground or do I bring her in for the winter? I have a garage that has no sun. I also have a back closed in porch that gets light in the winter but it could be cool out there in the winter. In really cold temperatures in the winter I run a heater in the porch at night only. I appreciate your advice. I have many lime light plants and so I do not want this new one to die. TY

Emily

1 year ago at 9:40 AM

Hello, you could do either! Fall is a great time for planting if you know of a great place to plant her. If you'd rather keep her in a pot, you could do that, too.

Robyn G Leckner

1 year ago at 11:29 AM

This article was very helpful for me! I live a little farther north in Minnesota and I have quite a few hydrangea's. I have mostly learned from the plant itself. Now I can ask them at Tonkadale Greenhouse. Thank you! R Leckner

June Curtis

1 year ago at 8:08 AM

My Big Daddy Hydrangea has been planted 2 yrs but doesn’t bloom. Last fall I put dead leaves to top & covered with a plastic garbage can. Still no blooms this year. What can I do?

Emily

1 year ago at 9:40 AM

Hello, I'm sorry you haven't been able to enjoy any blooms! It's hard to know exactly why it's not blooming, but often hydrangeas won't bloom if they've been either overfertilized or pruned at the wrong time (or both). Sometimes they don't bloom because of harsh winter weather or fluctuations in spring temperatures. There are a lot of variables to take into account. Avoid pruning your hydrangeas in late winter, spring, or early summer. Next season if you decide to prune them, prune in the fall after they are done blooming. Good luck!

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preparation for winter, pruning and sheltering

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Anatoly Vorontsov

It seems that caring for hydrangea is very troublesome. But in fact, the need for some agricultural practices is determined by the hydrangea variety and climatic conditions. Many worries are associated with sheltering hydrangeas for the winter period.

Hydrangea belongs to three main groups:

- tree hydrangea. Flat inflorescences are characteristic, which have a greenish tint, then - white, smoothly turning into pinkish. The care of this hydrangea consists in pruning for the winter period - its buds are laid on the shoots of the current year. It is necessary to cover only in case of a very hot winter;

- panicle hydrangea. The bush is similar to the hydrangea tree, but more powerful, and the inflorescences are cone-shaped. It is frost-resistant, so paniculate hydrangea for the winter is easy enough to cut without covering (laying buds on the shoots of the current year).

- large-leaved hydrangea. In large-leaved hydrangea, buds are laid on the shoots of the previous year, therefore, they must be preserved in winter. Large-leaved hydrangea is thermophilic. It is not necessary to cut this hydrangea for the winter - just remove the faded inflorescences.

And when you have determined which variety you have, then you can start preparing your hydrangeas for the harsh winter.

In order for the hydrangea to overwinter, it is not enough to take care of it only in autumn. You need to know that hydrangea loves shaded acidified soils, frequent fertilization and watering. In the middle of summer, stop applying nitrogen fertilizers and focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - because you need to prepare the hydrangea for a harsh winter.

Also, to prepare hydrangeas for the winter period, stop watering with the arrival of autumn, and remove the leaves at the bottom of the shoots. So, the plant will become woody.

We do not remove the leaves only from above, as they protect the buds from freezing. There is nothing terrible if you find some frozen shoots in the spring. Trim "frostbitten" shoots to live ones. Valuable hydrangea buds are located in the central part of the bush, and pruning is a rejuvenation of the bush, which will then have a positive effect on its flowering.

As mentioned above, the large-leaved hydrangea is not pruned because its buds are laid next summer. In large-leaved hydrangeas, only faded inflorescences are removed in autumn.

But what about the panicled, treelike hydrangeas?

There is no big difference - cut the bush in spring or autumn. Some flower growers say that pruning last year's shoots in the spring will protect the buds from freezing.

Nevertheless, most people prefer to prune hydrangea bushes for the winter: in autumn there is more time, and the branches will not break under the weight of snow, and slight freezing is not so terrible for tree hydrangea.

Leave a few buds on each shoot, cut out the rest. Together with pruning, we also clean the bush: we remove weak shoots.

Wintering of tree and paniculate hydrangea

This type of hydrangea does not require shelter for the winter. Just in case, in the fall you need to spud the bush well. But if young seedlings of hydrangeas, they must be covered for the winter.

Large-leaved hydrangea in winter

Unfortunately, you won't get large-leaved hydrangea flowers without shelter for the winter. You need to cover very warmly - even warmer than roses.

There are several popular options for sheltering hydrangeas for the winter:

1) Wooden boards about half a meter long are taken and laid on the ground around the hydrangea. The shoots bend down in an arbitrary shape - along the radius. You can fix the branches in the cracks between the boards. Then we lay the same boards on top - without pressing down. The next layer will be agrofibre. From above, this structure is covered with another layer of insulating material - branches, spruce branches, dry leaves.

To cover the hydrangea, you can take sawdust, and bags of leaves, and in non-woven materials. And do not be afraid that the hydrangea bush will suffocate or suffocate. Sometimes it happens that mold is found on the shoots in the spring - there is nothing to worry about. Wipe off mold with a cloth.

2) Another common hydrangea cover method is air dry. The hydrangea bush is tied for insulation, wrapped with spandbond or lutrasil, then a mesh frame is placed around the bush. The frame should be 15 cm larger than the bush.

The finished frame is filled with dry leaves. The design is covered with a film, roofing material.

If it turned out that the hydrangea froze - do not worry, it did not die at all: after pruning the frostbitten shoots, the shrub will rush into growth and grow a dense crown. Only the hydrangea will not bloom.

Therefore, for the large-flowered hydrangea, shelter for the winter period is a necessary measure. Approach this wisely - and the hydrangea will bloom magnificently. The shelter is dismantled in the spring - gradually.

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Hydrangea care in autumn: the right preparation for winter

In the middle lane, many hydrangeas cover for the winter. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, these plants need special care. We will tell you what to do with hydrangeas in the fall and how to help her winter safely.

We have already told you that garden hydrangeas need proper pruning in autumn. However, this is not the only procedure that must be carried out before the onset of winter.

In autumn, it is also recommended to treat the bushes against diseases and pests that could winter in the bark or in the soil of the tree circle. After leaf fall, hydrangeas are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux liquid.

Transplanting hydrangeas in autumn

If the autumn is quite warm or you live in a mild climate, you can start replanting shrubs. At this time, only paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are "relocated" to another place. But the landing site is being prepared in the spring. Along the perimeter of the trunk circle, they dig a trench about 30 cm deep and wide, fill it with compost and water it regularly.

Hydrangea is transplanted in September. To do this, the branches of the bush are tied with a rope so that they do not break and do not interfere with your work.

Hydrangeas are dug along the outer edge of the trench and carefully removed from the soil, being careful not to damage the roots (especially young ones). You don't have to worry about old roots. The plant is transferred to a new place and planted in a prepared hole filled with a nutrient soil mixture with an acidic reaction.

The soil is best prepared from leafy earth, humus, sand and acid high-moor peat (red) in a ratio of 2:2:1:1.

After planting, water the hydrangea and compact the soil. In this case, the root neck of the bush should be at ground level. In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning (all branches "to zero").

Propagation of hydrangeas in autumn

Also at this time, the plant can be propagated by layering, offspring (shoots) and dividing the bush. But hydrangea cuttings are not carried out in the fall. The shrub is propagated by green cuttings in summer.

In September-October, if necessary, old hydrangea bushes are divided and the divisions are transplanted to new places. Pre-sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal.

Reproduction by layering is unproductive, but you can still try this method. To do this, tilt a low-growing branch, pin it to the soil in a pre-made groove 15 cm deep and water it. The top should be above the ground. With the onset of cold weather, the layers are carefully covered.

The next year, the trench is carefully dug up, the coppice shoot is separated, trying not to damage the roots of the mother bush, after which this shoot is planted for growing in a school for 1 or 2 years, and then transplanted to a permanent place.

But the most important procedure carried out in autumn is the thorough preparation of the bush for winter. This is especially true for large-leaved hydrangea (macrophiles).

Bigleaf hydrangea winterization

This garden hydrangea needs the most thorough preparation for winter and reliable shelter, as it is more afraid of frost than other species. The fact is that this capricious beauty blooms on the shoots of last year. And if flower buds freeze on them in autumn, then next year there will be no flowers.

Preparations for wintering begin already in mid-September. First of all, all the lower leaves are cut to the middle of the bush (the upper leaves are not touched). This will speed up the process of lignification of the shoots. After that, the shrub is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer: 40-60 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt or 25 g of potassium sulfate are applied per 1 sq.m of soil.

After 3-4 weeks in October, without waiting for strong night frosts, the large-leaved hydrangea begins to gradually warm up. This plant is not afraid of decay, so it is better to cover it in advance than to be late.

The bush is tied and covered with two layers of spunbond with a density of at least 60 g/m2.

Hydrangea tree winterization

Hydrangea arborescens is covered in summer with white corymbose inflorescences that turn greenish with age. Most varieties of this variety are unpretentious, so they do not need shelter for the winter. However, modern large-flowered forms, which came to us from nurseries in warm regions, require light hilling. This helps protect the root system from the cold.

Tree-like hydrangeas bloom on current year's shoots. Therefore, if the upper part of the shoots freezes in winter, this will have almost no effect on flowering. You can often find advice that for the winter you do not need to cut off faded inflorescences so that the plants overwinter better. This is true, but under the weight of snow accumulating on the inflorescences, the shoots can break. Therefore, in late autumn, it is better to remove faded inflorescences (at least the largest ones) and non-lignified parts of shoots that are unlikely to successfully overwinter in the hydrangea tree. Fallen leaves must be collected and burned.

Paniculate hydrangea winterization

Hydrangea paniculata is taller than its tree-like "sister".

How do you winterize hydrangeas

How to winterize hydrangeas – to protect them from the cold

How to winterize hydrangeas – do they all need protection?

Should hydrangeas be cut back for winter?

How do you prepare hydrangeas for winter?

How to winterize hydrangeas in pots

It's a wrap! Here's how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter.

Panicle Hydrangeas

Mophead Hydrangeas

Smooth Hydrangeas

Oakleaf Hydrangea

preparation for winter, pruning and sheltering

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Hydrangea care in autumn: the right preparation for winter

Transplanting hydrangeas in autumn

Propagation of hydrangeas in autumn

Bigleaf hydrangea winterization

Hydrangea tree winterization

Paniculate hydrangea winterization

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