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How do you grow peas


How to Grow Peas - Bob Vila

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Chances are the phrase “eat your peas” sounds familiar. But if the only thing that comes to mind are the mushy, canned variety, prepare to be converted. Fresh peas right off the vine taste nothing like their mass-produced cousins. They’re full of flavor, crisp, and in some cases they’re as sweet as candy.

The good news is that peas also are incredibly easy to grow and do well in cool weather, so they are often planted during shoulder seasons when other veggies are already fading or unable to start. This guide to growing peas will have you embracing peas on your plate again.

Growing Peas at a Glance

Common Name: Pea, Garden Pea, Snap Pea, Sugar Pea, Snow Pea
Scientific Name: Pisum sativum
Hardiness Zone: 2 to 11
Soil: Rich, quick-draining soil, pH 6 to 7.5
Light: Full sun
Water: Regular, even
Food: Little to none
Propagation: Sow directly in soil
Safety: Edible, nontoxic

Pea Characteristics

Peas are lovely vining plants that are easy to grow in nearly any climate. Their vines range in size from 2 feet long to several feet high. Unlike other vegetables, the plants can tolerate quite a bit of cold and fog, so peas are an excellent cool-season crop and an attractive addition to a fall vegetable garden.

There are two different categories of peas: shelling peas and edible-pod peas. Shelling peas are usually called garden peas, and they require growers to open the pod (shell) to harvest the peas, and then discard the shell. Edible-pod peas include snap peas and snow (or sugar) peas. Snow peas are flatter than snap peas. The entire pea, including the shell, is edible.

If you’re wondering “is a pea a vegetable?” the answer is yes and no. Peas are legumes, though the fresh and frozen peas are considered starchy vegetables. No matter what you call it, nearly all of the pea plant is edible including the shoots, leaves, flowers, and pods.

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Recommended Pea Varieties

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Planting Peas

Peas do best sown directly in the ground. Starting peas indoors is usually not worth the effort since peas like cool weather and are usually the first crop to go in and their roots don’t take kindly to transplanting. The most important thing when planting peas is giving them some kind of support, such as a trellis, on which to grow. A trellis might be as simple as a garden string fashioned between two stakes. Even bush varieties need some trellis support.

When is the best time to plant peas?

When to plant peas will depend on your climate. Peas don’t like temperatures above 85 degrees, so they are considered a cool-season crop. In areas with cold winters, peas can be the first crop sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is workable. For fall crops, plant up to 12 weeks before the first expected frost date.

In climates with milder winters, plant anytime from fall to early spring; however, if you live in a climate where springs turn hot (above 85 degrees) quickly, avoid planting too late. Most peas take 60 to 70 days to mature.

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Where can peas grow?

Choose a place in your garden with full sun and good airflow. Garden peas are climbing vegetables that require support as they grow but be mindful of planting along a fence that doesn’t allow for air circulation. Not enough circulation leads to powdery mildew.

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Garden peas can tolerate various soils as long as there is adequate drainage. Enrich the soil with compost to create a nutrient-dense planting mix. You can maximize garden space by planting a tall, vining pea plant that will climb up a pole, and planting microgreens in its shade, not unlike companion planting with cucumbers and salad greens.

How do you plant peas?

Planting peas is rewarding as most pea seedlings germinate within 1 to 2 weeks.

  1. Plant seeds at the base of a trellis. How high will depend on the type of pea you’ve chosen.
  2. Dig a narrow, shallow trench, about 1½  inches deep.
  3. Plant the seeds 6 to 7 inches apart in the trench unless the seed packet suggests otherwise.
  4. Press the seeds into the trench and cover them with 1 inch of soil.
  5. Gently tap the soil to firm it over the seeds.
  6. Water carefully to avoid flooding and dislodging the seeds.
  7. Keep the soil evenly moist.
  8. Once the pea seedlings are several inches high, you can mulch around the base of the plant to keep moisture in.

Can you grow peas in containers?

In general, peas do not put down deep roots. The plants, especially the dwarf or bush variety, do not grow very tall. For these reasons, it is possible to successfully grow them in a container. The biggest challenge is to ensure that the soil is both rich in nutrients and drains well. Some kind of trellis or support will need to be added to allow the peas to grow up and not simply vine over the sides. It’s advisable to set the trellis in place before the peas start to grow.

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Watering Peas

Avoid overhead watering—water peas at the base of the plant, keeping the soil evenly moist. Watering in the early morning will help prevent wilting during the day and allows plants to dry out before cooler evenings, helping to prevent powdery mildew. Be careful not to flood out delicate pea seedlings.

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Fertilizing Peas

If peas are planted in a compost-rich planting mix, no fertilizing is required during the growing season. If the soil is lacking in nutrients, fertilize pea plants 6 weeks after germination with a water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10) and apply directly to the soil after watering in the morning.

Some growers choose to inoculate peas with Rhizobium, a bacterium that helps fix nitrogen from the air to store in the roots, resulting in a healthier, more vigorous plant. Look for a pea inoculant at any garden center or nursery. Prior to sowing the seeds, sprinkle a small amount of the inoculant directly into the seed packet and shake it. Many seed varieties will already be inoculated and will say so on the package. Peas will grow and produce without inoculation.

Safety Considerations

Nearly all parts of the pea plant, Pisum sativum, are edible and pose no risk to animals or humans. However, it should be noted that sweet pea plants, Lathyrus odoratus, which are grown for their flowers, are toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and horses. The seeds of the sweet pea are poisonous. To make matters even more confusing, there is an edible sweet pea variety called Lathyrus sativus, which can be consumed but should be avoided in large quantities.

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Potential Pests and Diseases

Pea seedlings are susceptible to slugs and snails. Because peas can be grown during cooler months, this is often a bigger problem in early spring or fall weather. Aphids can cause damage to plants, though not often the pods, and spread disease.

Powdery mildew is a common problem in the vegetable garden and pea plants are no exception. If caught early, the affected leaves can be removed to prevent spread. If it’s already started to spread, either wait until the peas mature, harvest the peas and then remove the plants, or pull out the diseased plants right away to prevent spreading. There are fungicides for powdery mildew, but it is difficult to spray the plants without coating the edible pods, and it is not generally advisable.

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Harvesting Peas

Knowing how to grow peas is a great start, but understanding how to harvest and store them also is helpful. Harvesting peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest as well as how you store the pea.

When is the best time to harvest peas?

Peas typically mature between 60 and 70 days after planting, though the exact time to maturity depends on the variety—this will be listed on the back of your seed packet. Most pea plants will begin to produce pods within 8 to 10 weeks. The pods first appear at the bottom of the plant. Harvest these right away to encourage more growth and pod production. Look for pods that are plump but not hard. If peas over-ripen, they become starchy and the shells become tough.

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How do you harvest peas?

Harvesting garden peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest.

Snow peas are best when still flat, with just the beginning of peas forming inside. Sugar snap peas are at their sweetest when the pod looks plump and glossy, typically when the pods are 2 to 3 inches long, but the length varies depending on the exact variety. Garden peas are best when the peas are large but not fully developed. Look for pods that are full but not split or ready to burst. They will be somewhat cylindrical and still bright green.

  1. Look for peas that are at peak readiness. Peas produce a lot of pods, and it won’t take long to learn the ideal stage for harvest once you’ve picked a few.
  2. Harvest peas any time of the day, but morning is best, when they are plumpest.
  3. All types of pea plant are delicate, so be careful when harvesting them. Try twisting the pod gently with one hand while holding the vine with the other, or use scissors or garden shears to remove the pods to avoid breaking the vine.
  4. Peas are best when eaten right away.
  5. Shell garden peas by splitting them open and gently scraping the peas inside into a bowl.
  6. Some snow peas and snap peas have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating. If you plan to store your peas, wait to remove this.

How do you store peas?

If you are storing garden peas, shell the peas and then immerse them in cold water to chill. Some gardeners will shell their peas directly into a bowl of chilled water. Once they are cool, remove them from the water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator in a bag or container. They should hold their quality for up to a week in the refrigerator.

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You can also freeze peas following the same method, allowing them to dry completely before freezing. Don’t freeze whole garden peas; always shell them first.

Snow peas and snap peas should be cooled right after picking. Dunk them in cold water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator for up to a week. Both have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating, but leave them intact until you are ready to eat them. You can freeze snow and snap peas similarly to garden peas after cooling the pods and allowing them to dry.

If storing dried peas, particularly toward the end of harvest season, allow the pea pods to dry completely on the vine. They will start to brown and will sound like a rattle. Once the pods appear dry, pull the entire plant up and hang it to dry. Once the rest of the plant has dried out, remove the pods, shell the peas inside, and store for planting next year.

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Learn How to Plant and Grow Peas at Home

Pisum Sativum

Opinions may differ, of course, but many gardeners will tell you that freshly picked peas (Pisum sativum) deliver a nearly unmatched pleasure.

Fresh-off-the-vine peas deliver a crisp crunch, an unmistakably bright and complex flavor, and because they are often the first spring crop to be harvested, the first promise of summer’s bounty yet to come.

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In this growing guide, we’ll learn about the types of peas available to home gardeners, when and where to plant them, and most importantly, when to harvest and eat them.

How to Grow Peas

Let’s get started!

Fat or Skinny?

Broadly, there are two categories of this vegetable: edible pod, and non-edible pod.

And within these two categories, there are dwarf – or bush – types, which get to a height of 16 to 30 inches at maturity, and the tall – or telephone – types, which can grow three feet or taller.

The dwarf cultivars tend to produce their crop all at once, much like a determinate tomato, whereas the tall varieties bear fruit over a longer period. Some gardeners prefer the easier harvestability of the taller varieties.

You can often get away without trellising bush varieties, whereas with the tall ones, you’ll almost certainly need to provide support.

Non-Edible Shell

Garden peas, also known as English peas, are non-edible pod types, and must be shelled before the green orbs within are eaten, either raw or cooked.

Heirloom Green Arrow Pea Seeds

‘Green Arrow’ is a popular heirloom open pollinated dwarf garden type, and is available from Eden Brothers in sizes ranging from 1 ounce to 10 lbs.

If you’d like to try a tall variety, consider ‘Alderman,’ such as these from Stonysoil Seed Company, available via Amazon.

Heirloom ‘Alderman’ Seeds

This heirloom variety will grow up to 7 feet tall, and you’ll get approximately 50 seeds per packet.

Want More Options?

Take a look at our guide, “17 of the Best Shelling Pea Varieties to Grow in Your Garden.”

Edible Shell

Snow peas (P. sativum var. saccharatum), sometimes called Chinese pea pods, are of the edible-pod type. They’re nearly as flat as a flash drive, with tiny peas inside the pod. They’re often used in stir fries.

If you’re looking to grow a snow variety, consider ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ from Burpee.

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Seeds

You can order packets of 300 or 900 seees that will develop into 28-inch-tall plants. Seed packets that have been grown and harvested using purely organic methods are also available.

Sugar snaps are a blend of garden and snow. They’re plump like garden peas, but have a tender, edible pod like the snow variety.

If you’d like to grow sugar snaps, consider Burpee’s ‘Super Sugar Snap.’

‘Super Sugar Snap’ Pea Seeds

This variety gets about 60 inches tall, and is available from Burpee.com in packages of 300 or 900.

Sunny but Cool

P. sativum is a frost-hardy, cool-weather crop. Plant seeds in full sun as soon as the soil can be worked, when the soil temperature is at least 45°F.

If you live in an areas with warm summers, you’ll want to get your seeds in the ground as early as you can, because once temps hit 85°F, it’s adios P. sativum.

These legumes prefer well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. They’re happiest in soil with a pH between 6 and 7.5.

Plant the seeds 1 to 1 ½ inches deep and one inch apart. Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin seedlings to two or three inches between each after they’ve emerged, keeping the strongest specimens.

Add mulch to your planting area, to help retain moisture at the drip line.

Spring Sprinkles Should Do the Trick

These plants need a good amount of water, especially when pods are forming. If you get an inch of spring rains weekly, you’re in good shape. Anything less than that and you’ll have to supplement.

If soil tests warrant it, you can feed with phosphorus. But these plants gather their own nitrogen, so they don’t need supplements of that nutrient.

You’ll want to keep the garden area free of weeds by pulling the interlopers by hand.

Here Come the Bugs

P. sativum can be afflicted by aphids, which can be treated with neem oil such as this one from Bonide, available at Arbico Organics.

Bonide Neem Oil

This 32-ounce spray bottle is ready to use, and can also be used to treat powdery mildew, another problem from which this plant can suffer.

Monterey Bt Biological Insecticide

Cutworms are another potential pest of this plant. Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants to discourage these moth larvae, or use a Bt product, such as this one from Monterey, available through Arbico Organics.

You Can Eat the Whole Plant

Harvest English types before the peas have completely filled the pod. These veggies should be shelled and eaten as soon as possible – they will last only two to three days in the refrigerator.

You can also allow the English types to fully mature and dry on the vine, and then harvest the dried peas for use in soups, or to plant next year.

Snow peas should be picked as soon as they reach edible size. Consult the seed packet for optimal size at maturity, depending on your cultivar.

Pick sugar snaps while tender, as soon as the pods swell.

Snow and snap peas will remain tasty for as long as a week in the refrigerator. Just wait to wash them until you’re ready to eat.

Keep in mind: some varieties will need to have the strings removed before cooking.

The vines of these plants are also edible, and because they are the most tender and delicious when the plant is very young, some gardeners plant extra seeds just to harvest the tendrils and shoots, before the pods even form. They’re delicious added to fresh early-season salads.

A Salad Bar of Your Own Making

These green bits of goodness are wonderful sources of protein, fiber, and iron, and we’ve collected some recipes that are as tasty as they are healthful:

Let’s start with a fresh pesto pasta salad from our sister site, Foodal. English peas combine with other garden delights – basil and spinach – to create a refreshing summer salad.

Another salad from Foodal, made with black rice and a red wine vinaigrette, combines a hearty grain with greens, radishes, carrots, and our tasty emerald orbs.

Mushroom mattar masala is a delicious vegetarian side dish, especially  when it’s made with fresh vegetables from the garden. The Magic Saucepan shares the recipe for this one.

Or for a delectable casserole entree, try this lasagna bianca from Sugar Love Spices, with white sauce, asparagus, peas, and mushrooms.

For a change of pace, how about a creamy pesto zucchini pasta with peas? This quick dinner from The Fitchen makes use of coconut milk and white wine vinegar, with spiralized summer squash “noodles.”

Plump or Lean, It’s All Good

Nothing sings the promise of summer veggies to come like the springy flavor of peas, whether they’re chubby BBs thumbed from the shell, or flat as a stick of Wrigley’s and waiting to be sliced into a salad.

Among the few veggies that can take a frost with no ill effect, peas are easy to grow, provided you give them rich soil and plenty of water.

Do you grow this legume? Which variety grows best in your neck of the woods? Share your experience in the comments section below. And if you’d like to learn about another spring vegetable, check out our rhubarb growing guide.

Product photos via David’s Garden Seeds, Stonysoil Seed Company, Burpee, Bonide, and Monterey. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.

planting and care in the open field, growing from seeds, harvesting, storage, photo

Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: garden plants reprinted: Last amendments:

Content

and diseases
  • Harvesting and storage
  • Species and varieties
    • Peeling (Pisum sativum convar. sativum) varieties
    • Brain (Pisum sativum convar. medullare) varieties
    • Sugar (Pisum sativum convar. axiphium) varieties
  • Literature
  • Comments

    • Plant pea (lat. Pisum) belongs to the genus of herbaceous plants of the Legume family. The homeland of peas is Southwest Asia, where it has been cultivated since time immemorial. Green peas contain carotene (provitamin A), vitamin C, PP, B vitamins, as well as salts of manganese, phosphorus, potassium and iron. The pea vegetable is a source of lysine, one of the most deficient amino acids. In modern culture, three varieties of peas are grown: fodder, grain and vegetable - an annual self-pollinating plant that can develop rapidly. nine0007

    Peas are in demand not only as a source of vegetable protein and other useful substances, but also as green manure - the best predecessor for any other garden crop.

    Planting and caring for peas

    Read more about growing peas below

    Botanical description

    The root system of peas is deep, the stem is hollow, branching, reaching a height of two and a half meters, depending on the variety, ordinary or standard, with pinnate compound leaves, the petioles of which end in antennae , which, clinging to the support, hold the plant upright. The flowers of peas are sometimes purple, but usually white, self-pollinating, bisexual, blooming 30-55 days after sowing. The first peduncle in early varieties hatches from the axils of 6-8 leaves, and in later varieties - from the axils of 12-24 leaves. New flower stalks appear every two days or even every other day. Pea fruits are beans, which, depending on the variety, have different shades of color, shape and size. nine0007

    Beans contain 4 to 10 smooth or wrinkled seeds of the same color as the pod skin. Like all legumes, peas enrich the soil with nitrogen: beneficial microorganisms develop on its roots during the growth process - bacteria that fix nitrogen absorbed by them from the atmosphere.

    Planting peas outdoors

    When to plant

    Despite the fact that peas are finicky, it is not difficult to grow them on the site if agricultural practices are followed. Planting peas in open ground is carried out at the end of April - from the twentieth day of the month, as soon as the garden dries out a little from the melted snow. Pea seedlings develop normally even with light frosts. Early ripening varieties can be planted in summer, until the end of the first decade of July. In general, peas are sown several times: from late April to early July, with an interval between sowings of 10 days. nine0007

    Before planting, the seeds are heated for five minutes in a hot (40 ºC) solution of boric acid (2 g of acid per 10 liters of water) - this measure reduces the likelihood of damage to peas by diseases and pests, in particular, nodule weevil larvae. After swelling in the acid solution, the pea seeds should dry out. If for some reason you did not have time to wet the seeds for swelling, sow them dry - they will swell in the ground by evening.

    Soil for peas

    Growing peas in open ground requires certain conditions to be met: a site for peas is chosen sunny, with deep groundwater, since the roots of the plant go deep into a meter and can be affected by water. The soil for peas is preferably light, but fertile, the pH of the soil should be in the range of 6-7 units: in acidic soil, the plant will be sick and weak. Peas do not like poor soils, as well as those in which there is an excess of readily available nitrogen. nine0007

    Some gardeners recommend sowing peas in the near-trunk circles of young apple trees, since their crowns, which are just beginning to develop, do not cover the peas from the sun, at the same time, peas enrich the soil for trees with nitrogen. If you decide on such an experiment, pour fertile soil into the near-stem circles of apple trees with a layer of 10-12 cm in height.

    Despite the fact that the cultivation of peas from seeds starts in early spring, it is better to prepare the soil for peas in the fall: dig, adding an additional 20-30 g of potassium salt and 50-60 g of superphosphate for each m². Acidic soil is neutralized with wood ash at the rate of 200-400 g per m², depending on the value of the acid index. The following spring, before planting, 10 g of saltpeter per m² is added to the soil. Never use fresh manure as a fertilizer for peas - the plant does not tolerate it, but grows well on soils that were manured under its predecessors. nine0007

    Then you can sow peas

    Peas grow well after plants such as tomato, potato, cabbage, cucumber, and pumpkin. Undesirable for peas are such predecessors as beans, beans, soybeans, lentils, peanuts and peas themselves.

    How to plant in the ground

    Before planting peas, make furrows 5-7 cm deep and 15-20 cm wide at a distance of 50-60 cm from one another in the beds. Bring compost mixed with ash into the furrows and sprinkle it on top with garden soil so that the depth of the furrow remains approximately 3-5 cm (3 cm for heavy soils, 5 cm for light soils). nine0007

    Sowing is carried out at a frequency of 15-17 seeds per meter of furrow, that is, the distance between seeds should be approximately 6 cm. seedlings are covered with a translucent film or fishing net. Shoots will appear in a week or a half. In the aisles of peas, you can grow radishes or lettuce.

    Pea care

    Growing conditions

    Seeds germinate already at 4-7 ºC, but the most comfortable temperature for the crop is 10 ºC. But heat is contraindicated for peas, and you will not wait for flowering from seeds planted in the heat.

    The main care for peas is proper watering followed by loosening and simultaneous weeding of the plot. The first loosening of the soil is carried out two weeks after the emergence of shoots and is accompanied by hilling pea bushes. When the plants stretch to a height of 20-25 cm, place a row of supports along which the peas will climb up. nine0007

    If you want to get a rich harvest, pinch off the top of the stem as soon as possible so that it puts out a few side shoots, which can also be pinched off over time. It is best to carry out this manipulation in the early sunny morning, so that the wound has time to dry before the evening. It is likely that you will have to deal with pests or diseases of peas, and you must be prepared to protect the crop from them.

    Watering

    Peas are very sensitive to heat, so in the dry season there is a need for increased moisture. The culture especially needs moisture when flowers appear on peas. If up to this point, peas are watered on average once a week, then with the beginning of flowering and further fruit formation, they switch to watering twice a week. More often, peas are watered and in a hot season - twice a week, and plentifully - 9-10 l per m². After watering, weeding and loosening of the site is usually carried out.

    Top dressing

    Pea top dressing can be combined with irrigation. Before watering the peas, dissolve a tablespoon of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water - this is the consumption of the solution per 1 m² of pea beds. How to fertilize peas besides nitroammophoska? Mullein solution can be used. Dry organic matter (compost, humus) and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied the first time before flowering, and the second time after it, as well as in autumn, when tilling the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil in spring. nine0007

    Peas tie

    Pea stems are weak, so when the fruits begin to form, the peas lie down under their weight and need to be tied to a support. As a support, you can use pegs or metal rods stuck along the row at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. A wire or rope is pulled horizontally over them. Guide pea shoots with tendrils along these stretch marks so that the plants warm up in the sun and ventilate, and not lie on the ground, rotting from dampness. nine0007

    Pests and diseases

    Pea enemies among insects are codling moth, leafworm, cabbage and garden scoops. Scoops, like leafworms, lay their eggs on pea leaves. The hatched caterpillars of the scoop eat the ground parts of the plants, and the larvae of the leafworm, feeding on the leaves, wrap themselves in them. Codling moth butterflies lay their eggs on the fruits, leaves and flowers of peas, which in just a week become food for the larvae.

    Mosaic and powdery mildew are dangerous for peas. Mosaic is a viral disease that cannot be cured, but it can be avoided by observing the agrotechnics of the species and crop rotation, as well as by properly processing the seed before planting. The first signs of the disease are slow growth and curling of the leaves, as well as the appearance of teeth on their edges. Later, necrotic spots appear on the leaves, and the veins become discolored. nine0007

    Fungal disease powdery mildew, or sferoteka, is manifested by a whitish loose coating, which occurs first at the bottom of the ground part, and then spreads to the entire plant. As a result, the fruits crack and die, and the affected leaves and shoots turn black and die over time.

    Processing

    If you have found out what pea disease is, you need to know how to treat pea fungus, because there is only one way to get rid of the virus: remove the diseased specimen from the site and burn it, and the soil in which the diseased plant grew, shed a strong solution of potassium permanganate and do not grow anything in this place for at least a year. nine0007

    You can fight the fungus with fungicides (Kvadris, Topaz, Topsin, Fundazol, Skor, for example), but it's best to try to treat the sphere library with folk remedies that are safe for humans:

    All foliar treatments are done in the evening to avoid sunburning the drop-covered ground parts of the peas.

    Scoops, leafworms and codling moths fight caterpillars by treating peas with infusions of tomato tops and garlic. To prepare a tomato infusion, three kilograms of chopped tomato tops are infused in 10 liters of water for a day or two. Before processing the peas on the leaves, the infusion is filtered. Garlic for the preparation of a medicinal infusion in the amount of 20 g is passed through a crush, poured with ten liters of water and infused for a day, then filtered and used. These infusions have proven themselves well in the fight against aphids. nine0007

    Harvesting and storage

    About a month after flowering, peas can be harvested. Fruiting of peas lasts 35-40 days. Peas are a multi-collection crop, the pods are removed every day or two. The beans at the bottom of the bush ripen first. In one season, under favorable conditions, up to four kilograms of beans can be removed from a square meter of pea planting.

    Gardeners grow mainly varieties of sugar and shelling peas. One of the differences between sugar peas and shelling peas is the absence of a parchment layer in the pods, and therefore young sugar peas can be eaten with the pod. Tender pods of sugar peas begin to be gradually harvested as they reach technical maturity from mid-June. If you regularly remove every single pod from the bushes, then in August the peas can bloom again and give a second crop. Try to remove the pods carefully without breaking the stems. nine0007

    Shelling peas are harvested from the end of June until autumn, also when the fruits ripen: since shelling peas are grown for green peas, the pods must be removed while they are still smooth and uniformly colored. If a grid is drawn on the pod, it is only suitable for grain.

    Green peas, that is, peas that are unripe or, as they say, at the stage of technical maturity, are stored in canned or frozen form, as they quickly deteriorate. There is a third storage method: boil the peas for two minutes in boiling water, put them on a sieve, rinse with cold water, put them in an oven and keep them there for 10 minutes at a temperature of 45 ºC. Then it is taken out, cooled at room temperature for an hour and a half and placed again in a dryer at a temperature of 60 ºC. You can dry peas with the addition of sugar on a baking sheet in the oven. Ready for storage, peas have a wrinkled surface and a dark green color. nine0007

    Ripe peas, that is, peas in the stage of biological maturity, can be stored for more than one year.

    However, the following conditions must be met:

    Before storing peas, they are shelled and dried in a room with good ventilation for two or three days, scattered on clean paper. Do not store peas in paper, fabric, or polyethylene, as insects easily penetrate these materials. Peas are best stored in glass jars with metal twist lids, since nylon lids are also not a barrier to pests. nine0007

    Species and varieties

    Common pea or vegetable pea (Pistum sativus) is genetically diverse. Its subspecies differ in leaves, flowers, fruits and seeds. But this classification is of interest only to botanists. Practitioners divide pea varieties according to ripening time into early, mid-ripening and late-ripening, and according to the intended purpose, varieties are distinguished:

    Peeling (Pisum sativum convar. sativum) varieties

    Varieties with smooth seeds containing a lot of starch and not so much free sugars. nine0007

    The best varieties of shelled peas:

    Brain (Pisum sativum convar. medullare) varieties

    Their peas are shriveled in the stage of biological ripeness, but they are used in the phase of technical ripeness. They have a lot of sugar, so they are frozen and used for canning.

    The most popular varieties:

    Sugar varieties (Pisum sativum convar. axiphium)

    Varieties with small and very wrinkled seeds that do not have a parchment layer in the pod, so they can be eaten with the pod.

    Best varieties:

    Literature

    1. Read related topics on Wikipedia
    2. Peculiarities and other plants of the legume family
    3. List of all species on The Plant List
    4. More information on World Flora Online


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    Outdoor planting of peas: amateur instructions

    Greetings. Today I will share my experience: how to plant peas in open ground in spring and reap a rich harvest. I will tell you about my favorite varieties of peas, and I will conduct a short review of popular varieties. I will share with you how to prepare the soil and the peas themselves for planting, as well as talk about care and possible difficulties. And if you follow my recommendations, you will reap a rich harvest, even if you are a beginner.

    Contents

    1. Why I decided to grow peas outdoors
    2. My favorite varieties
    3. When to plant peas in open ground
    4. according to the regions
    5. according to the lunar calendar
    6. How to properly plant peas in open ground: Instruction
    7. Preparation of seeds
    8. Opel
    9. Preparation of the soil
    10. .
    11. Caring for peas outdoors
    12. Watering
    13. Fertilizing
    14. How to tie up peas outdoors
    15. What difficulties arise when planting peas outdoors
    16. Pest Control
    17. Disease Prevention
    18. More Related Articles

    Why I Decided to Grow Peas Outdoors

    I grow peas for many reasons at once:

    1. hardy, hardy plant.
    2. A fast-growing, prolific crop - several “waves” of harvest can be harvested in one summer.
    3. An excellent predecessor for any plant. Peas are green manure that improves the structure of the soil, enriching it with nitrogen. nine0012

    Gastronomically, peas are a source of vital vegetable protein. Its benefits for the body are also great:

    1. A source of deficient amino acid - lysine.
    2. Contains provitamin A (carotene), vitamins B, C, PP.
    3. Peas contain salts of iron, manganese, potassium, phosphorus.

    Growing peas is easy even for beginner gardeners. I will tell you about the secrets of a rich harvest, growing the sweetest and largest peas. nine0007 we grow peas in the open field

    My favorite varieties

    All varieties of cultivated peas can be divided into three groups. I will present varieties worthy of our attention in each of them.

    Sugar - small, wrinkled peas in an edible pod:

    1. Miracle of Kelvedon. An early high yielding variety. Pods up to 8 cm, with large smooth peas.
    2. Ambrosia. An early maturing variety grown on poles.
    3. Sugar Oregon. Mid-early variety with pods up to 10 cm long. nine0012
    4. Zhegalova 112. Mid-season high-yielding type. The length of the pods is up to 15 cm. Peas are sweet, delicate in taste.

    Brain - suitable for preservation and freezing:

    1. Phone. High yielding late variety. The plant grows up to 3 m in height. Pods - up to 11 cm with large green peas.
    2. Alpha. Early (ripening time - about 55 days) variety. Saber-shaped pods, up to 9 cm long. Peas - excellent taste.
    3. Faith. Early maturing prolific variety. The pods are small (up to 9cm), contain up to 10 peas.
    4. Adagum. Mid-season very tasty variety with yellow-green peas.

    Shelling - characterized by smooth peas containing a lot of starch, but a minimum of sugars:

    1. Dakota. High-yielding early type with large peas. Characterized as disease resistant.
    2. Somerwood. Mid-season coarse-grained and high-yielding variety. Also resistant to legume diseases.
    3. Bingo. A late maturing and productive type valued for its excellent taste characteristics. nine0012
    4. Vegetable Miracle. Mid-season, disease-resistant variety. Delicious peas are suitable both for preparations and for fresh consumption.

    I usually grow several varieties at once - early, mid-season and late. Do not forget to leave your favorite varieties for seeds.

    When to plant peas outdoors

    Peas are an unpretentious cold-resistant crop. Young sprouts withstand night cooling down to -6 C. But such cold resistance is short-lived - only for the duration of short frosts. Peas will not develop stably at low temperatures. Therefore, I plant it when the upper layers of the soil warm up to 5-8 C.

    Pay attention to the variety of peas. Sugar varieties are more thermophilic and tender, and shelling varieties survive frost well.

    By regions

    No one will tell you the specific dates for planting peas - I always focus on the characteristics of a particular season, long-term weather forecasts. However, I will indicate approximate dates:

    1. Southern regions - early-mid April.
    2. The middle band is the second or third decade of April.
    3. Urals and Siberia - early-mid May. nine0012

    In any case, I recommend to carry out sowing work before the end of May. Legumes develop best with long daylight hours. Every 2 weeks I update the plantings so that the first wave of peas is replaced by the second, third and subsequent ones.

    According to the lunar calendar

    According to the lunar calendar, peas are referred to as “tops”. Such plants should be planted in the phase of the young growing moon. At this time, plant juices are directed upwards, which contributes to accelerated growth.

    The most favorable dates for sowing in 2019:

    It is believed that plants planted on these dates develop the strongest and most productive.

    How to plant peas in open ground: instructions

    Peas are sown by a common method - through seeds. Its landing is simple - it seems that even a child can handle it. But still, gardeners need to take into account the nuances that I will reveal further. nine0007

    Seed preparation

    The germination of seed directly depends on the quality of its preparation. Therefore, the first thing I do is calibrate the peas - I reject damaged, deformed, having traces of diseases, incomprehensible spots.

    Then I decide on the method of sowing - there are two of them: with and without soaking. Instructions for the first method:

    1. Fill a small container with warm water.
    2. Wrap the peas in a thin natural cloth, place the bag in the water. nine0012
    3. Move container to a warm place (20-23 C).
    4. Keep the bag of chickpeas from drying out by adding water periodically.
    5. Seeds sprout after 2-5 days - ready for sowing.

    There are faster modern alternatives to this "old-fashioned" approach. I soak the peas in a solution of growth stimulants like Epin and Zircon. It is enough to keep the peas in the liquid for 2-3 hours - they are ready for planting.

    The dry method of preparation is even faster - the peas are simply placed in the recesses in the prepared bed. After planting, it is well, but carefully watered, covered with dense polyethylene. This creates a kind of "greenhouse effect" - a microenvironment favorable for the germination of peas.

    When choosing any preparation method, I do not forget about such an important procedure as seed disinfection:

    1. I dilute powdered boric acid in warm (about 40 C) water: for 5 liters of liquid - 1 g of the substance. nine0012
    2. I dip the peas into the solution for 5-10 minutes.
    3. Soak them with a paper towel or toilet paper to remove excess moisture.
    4. Dry on natural fabric for 1-3 hours at room temperature.

    Disinfection in a boric acid solution destroys pathogenic fungi and bacteria that may be in the seed. In addition, this is the prevention of pests - the same larvae of the nodule weevil.

    A slightly pink manganese solution is also suitable for disinfecting seed. Do not forget about the disinfecting properties of hydrogen peroxide: dilute 2 tbsp. tablespoons of the substance in 1 liter of water. In this composition, pea seeds are disinfected a couple of hours before planting. nine0007

    Germination in sawdust

    For residents of cold regions who want to eat early peas, I suggest an experimental planting. Varieties suitable for this method are:

    I will leave a small instruction:

    1. Pour boiling water over dry sawdust - this will simultaneously disinfect them and reduce acidity.
    2. Wring out the material, place in a plastic container with a layer of 1.5-2 cm.
    3. Spread the peas on sawdust at a distance of approximately 1x1 cm.
    4. Cover the seeds with a layer (2 cm) of the same wet sawdust.
    5. After 5-6 days, the sprouted seedlings are ready to move to a permanent place.

    As practice shows, such a "warm" germination accelerates the ripening period of peas by 15-20 days.

    Soil preparation

    For a pea bed, I leave a place in advance on a well-lit hill. Planting a crop in a lowland is impractical - it has very long roots. In the ravines, there is a rather high level of groundwater occurrence - they melt the root system of peas, which leads to its decay. nine0007

    I also draw attention to the predecessors of peas. The most successful:

    Do not grow peas on the site of plantations with legumes, cereals. They have common diseases that are easily transmitted "by inheritance". Peas are returned to their original place no earlier than after 4 years.

    Pay attention to the following features:

    1. Successful mixed plantings of peas with tomatoes, lettuce, turnips, radishes, parsley. I turn to the trick - I plant peas and corn nearby. In this case, there is no need to install a support - peas cling to a tall neighbor.
    2. Do not plant beans and potatoes or cabbage together.
    3. Do not plan joint plantings of peas and garlic, onions. Such a neighborhood spoils the taste of peas.

    The pea itself is an ideal predecessor - almost all crops can be planted after it. The powerful root system of the plant loosens the soil, and nodule bacteria that settle on it saturate the substrate with nitrogen, which helps to improve soil fertility. nine0007

    Peas prefer light soils - sandy loam and loam. Feels good on fertile chernozems, cultivated sod-podzolic substrate. Tolerates light soil acidity.

    An unfavorable environment for the pea root system is saline, acidic, heavy and damp soil. Such soil should be neutralized in advance: add lime, dolomite flour during acidification, lighten by adding peat.

    I noted that peas love a fertile substrate, but it is not worth "feeding" it. With an excess of fertilizers, the plant often "goes into tops". Therefore, I conduct a simple two-stage preparation of the beds:

    1. Autumn. I begin work with the careful removal of plant debris in which pests can overwinter. I bring in any last year's organic fertilizer - horse or cow manure, compost, bird droppings. I carry out a deep digging - I close up top dressing to a depth of 30 cm. I plan to prepare for frost so that the unexpected cold destroys all the pests hiding in the ground and their eggs and larvae.
    2. Spring. I introduce mineral compositions (per 1 m2) - 20 g of double superphosphate, 30 g of a potassium preparation. nine0012

    After these procedures, the bed is ready for planting peas.

    Sowing seeds

    When choosing one or another planting scheme, I focus on the characteristics of the pea variety. For low and medium plants:

    1. Spacing between plants in the same line - 5-6 cm.
    2. Row spacing - 15-20 cm. superficially to a depth of less than 2 cm. There is a high risk that birds will find them and peck them. nine0007

      If the variety is tall (more than 80 cm), I turn to another scheme:

      1. Intervals between plants in one line - 10 cm.
      2. Row spacing - 50 cm. per 1 m2.
      3. Seeding depth – 3-5 cm. The last method is classic:

        1. I make uniform grooves parallel to each other 3 cm deep.
        2. I keep 15-20 cm between rows.
        3. Between peas - 2-5 cm. However, with this method I make sure to thin them out - I leave at least 10 cm between mature plants.

        The grooved method allows for a tight planting. Peas perfectly tolerate somewhat cramped conditions, and even develop better under them.

        Planting in the holes is quite unusual:

        1. I make individual holes by hand about 5 cm deep. I stick to the 10x10 cm pattern.
        2. I put 3-5 peas in each hole.
        3. I fall asleep with earth, carefully tamping it down with my palms.
        4. I pour warm water.

        But the sowing itself is quite simple:

        1. Draw rows according to the chosen scheme, mark them with reeds.
        2. Make grooves of the selected depth - with a flat cutter, chopper or ordinary stick. The depth also depends on the type of soil: on chernozem, loam - up to 5-6 cm, on light "air" substrates - up to 7-8 cm.
        3. Water the bed well with preheated water.
        4. Dip the peas into the grooves, respecting the length of the intervals between them.
        5. Cover with loose earth, pressing lightly with your hands against the peas for a tighter fit.
        6. If tall plants are expected, install, stretch on the bed supports.
        7. If there is a threat of cold weather, protect plantings with dense covering material for 7-10 days.

        I expect the first shoots in 1-1.5 weeks. nine0007

        Outdoor care of peas

        Peas are hardy and unpretentious crops that do not require special care. But the cultivation of this plant should not be left to chance, if you want to get a good harvest.

        Watering

        Whatever variety of pea you buy, it is a moisture-loving crop. In the spring, you don’t have to worry about watering - you plant peas in soil saturated with melt water. In the summer, especially during drought, heat, peas are watered abundantly every 5 days. nine0007

        After a good rain or watering, I don't forget to loosen the plantings. Otherwise, a hard, airtight crust will form, preventing oxygen from reaching the roots.

        Top dressing

        Peas for development, in principle, enough of the fertilizers that you laid during the autumn, spring preparation of the ridge. If you forgot about it, it does not matter - humus can be laid directly when sowing peas.

        I do not recommend fertilizing peas during development with nitrogen preparations - the plant will go into green mass, and you will get an extremely meager harvest. During the growth period of peas, I spend the only top dressing - during flowering, I introduce a potassium composition. nine0274

        I manage with traditional ash infusion:

        1. For 10 liters of water - a liter jar of ashes.
        2. I insist a lot of days.
        3. I dilute the concentrate with water in a ratio of 1:10.
        4. I water the plants with a nutrient composition under the root, focusing on the growth line.

        This simple fertilizer helps me get a great crop of large and sweet peas.

        How to tie up peas outdoors

        Don't forget to tie up the plant for timely development. It is impossible to get a decent harvest from tangled, creeping peas on the ground. nine0007

        The easiest way to build the supports:

        1. Drive 1.5 m stakes at the row spacing on each side of the bed.
        2. Stretch fishing lines, thin synthetic laces, wires between the stakes at three levels - 20, 40 and 60 cm from the ground.
        3. The gardener does not need to tie up, direct the peas - the plant itself will cling to the supports with its antennae, and use them for their intended purpose.

        Any mesh construction can be installed between the rows - the same chain-link mesh. Such a simple support is quite enough for pea plantations. nine0007

        What difficulties arise when planting peas in open ground

        Peas rarely suffer from serious diseases and enemies. But I will draw your attention to the common difficulties in growing it.

        Pest control

        The following enemies can be found in our gardens:

        1. Aphids.
        2. Ognevka.
        3. Leaf roller.
        4. Cabbage and garden scoop.
        5. Nodule weevil.
        6. Thrips. They suck out the juice of the plant, which leads to the drying of the pod and the loss of the crop. nine0012
        7. Pea codling moth.
        8. Grain. The pest is easy to identify by the numerous eggs on the pods, which look like small yellow drops.
        nodule pea weevil aphid in the garden pea moth

        I control the pest as follows:

        1. Disinfection of seed. Disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate, boric acid, hydrogen peroxide destroys pest eggs.
        2. Aphids effectively eliminate a solution of laundry or tar soap: 150 g of shavings (grate a bar) in 10 liters of water. I spray the plants with the resulting mass. nine0012
        3. I deal with other uninvited guests with garlic infusion. I grind 0.5 kg of cloves or arrows of a plant, pour 3 liters of warm water. I let it brew for 3 days, then I filter and dilute the concentrate with 10 liters of plain water. To increase the effectiveness of the solution, I add 50 g of tobacco, soap chips. I stir until smooth, spray the plants.
        4. Effective against pests and decoction of tomato leaves. Grind 4 kg of tomato shoots, leaves, pour 10 liters of heated water. Infuse for 3-4 hours, then put the container on a slow fire. I boil the mass for about 30 minutes. Then I cool, filter, dilute with water 1: 4. I add 50 g of laundry soap shavings, apply spray liquid. nine0012

        If the above methods were powerless, I turn to chemicals like karbofos. I use the drugs strictly according to the attached instructions. It is especially important to observe the waiting periods specified by the manufacturer, to ensure personal safety during processing.

        Prevention of diseases

        Peas practically do not get sick, but still can be susceptible to two dangerous infections:

        1. Mosaic is an incurable virus. Infection can be prevented by observing the rules of crop rotation, agricultural technology, and high-quality processing of seed. I define the disease by inhibition of growth and a certain “curly” tops, the appearance of scars on the leaves, discolored veins, necrotic blotches. nine0012
        2. Powdery mildew is a fungal infection. A loose whitish coating appears on the tops, enveloping the plant from bottom to top. Affected leaves, shoots turn black, dry out, and the pods crack.

        First of all, I dig up and destroy the affected plant. I water the place where it grew with a strong manganese solution of saturated raspberry color. Then I do not grow anything in this place during the season.

        Neighboring plantings for the purpose of prevention are treated with safe folk remedies:

        1. I fill the bucket ½ full with crushed weeds, pour the remaining volume with hot water. I insist for several days until an unpleasant odor appears. Then I filter through a sieve, gauze, dilute with water 1:10. I use it for foliar spraying.
        2. For 10 liters of water - 40 g of laundry soap shavings, 40 g of soda ash. I spray the plants with the resulting composition 2 times, taking a break of 7 days.
        3. For 300 g of sow thistle greens - 10 liters of water. I insist the mass overnight, filter. I use for spraying according to the same scheme: 2 times with a break in a week. nine0012

        I spray with natural compounds in the evening so as not to burn the foliage. If these measures are powerless, I turn to the "heavy artillery" - fungicides. Among the common ones are Topaz, Quadris, Skor, Topsin, Fundazol.

        Growing delicious and productive peas is a task feasible for any gardener.

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