Growing peas in a garden

Learn How to Plant and Grow Peas at Home

Opinions may differ, of course, but many gardeners will tell you that freshly picked peas (Pisum sativum) deliver a nearly unmatched pleasure.

Fresh-off-the-vine peas deliver a crisp crunch, an unmistakably bright and complex flavor, and because they are often the first spring crop to be harvested, the first promise of summer’s bounty yet to come.

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In this growing guide, we’ll learn about the types of peas available to home gardeners, when and where to plant them, and most importantly, when to harvest and eat them.

How to Grow Peas

• Fat or Skinny?
  • Non-Edible Shell
  • Edible Shell
• Sunny but Cool
• Spring Sprinkles Should Do the Trick
• Here Come the Bugs
• You Can Eat the Whole Plant
• A Salad Bar of Your Own Making
• Plump or Lean, It’s All Good

Let’s get started!

Fat or Skinny?

Broadly, there are two categories of this vegetable: edible pod, and non-edible pod.

And within these two categories, there are dwarf – or bush – types, which get to a height of 16 to 30 inches at maturity, and the tall – or telephone – types, which can grow three feet or taller.

The dwarf cultivars tend to produce their crop all at once, much like a determinate tomato, whereas the tall varieties bear fruit over a longer period. Some gardeners prefer the easier harvestability of the taller varieties.

You can often get away without trellising bush varieties, whereas with the tall ones, you’ll almost certainly need to provide support.

Non-Edible Shell

Garden peas, also known as English peas, are non-edible pod types, and must be shelled before the green orbs within are eaten, either raw or cooked.

Heirloom Green Arrow Pea Seeds

‘Green Arrow’ is a popular heirloom open pollinated dwarf garden type, and is available from Eden Brothers in sizes ranging from 1 ounce to 10 lbs.

If you’d like to try a tall variety, consider ‘Alderman,’ such as these from Stonysoil Seed Company, available via Amazon.

Heirloom ‘Alderman’ Seeds

This heirloom variety will grow up to 7 feet tall, and you’ll get approximately 50 seeds per packet.

Want More Options?

Take a look at our guide, “17 of the Best Shelling Pea Varieties to Grow in Your Garden.”

Edible Shell

Snow peas (P. sativum var. saccharatum), sometimes called Chinese pea pods, are of the edible-pod type. They’re nearly as flat as a flash drive, with tiny peas inside the pod. They’re often used in stir fries.

If you’re looking to grow a snow variety, consider ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ from Burpee.

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Seeds

You can order packets of 300 or 900 seees that will develop into 28-inch-tall plants. Seed packets that have been grown and harvested using purely organic methods are also available.

Sugar snaps are a blend of garden and snow. They’re plump like garden peas, but have a tender, edible pod like the snow variety.

If you’d like to grow sugar snaps, consider Burpee’s ‘Super Sugar Snap.’

‘Super Sugar Snap’ Pea Seeds

This variety gets about 60 inches tall, and is available from Burpee.com in packages of 300 or 900.

Sunny but Cool

P. sativum is a frost-hardy, cool-weather crop. Plant seeds in full sun as soon as the soil can be worked, when the soil temperature is at least 45°F.

If you live in an areas with warm summers, you’ll want to get your seeds in the ground as early as you can, because once temps hit 85°F, it’s adios P. sativum.

These legumes prefer well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. They’re happiest in soil with a pH between 6 and 7.5.

Plant the seeds 1 to 1 ½ inches deep and one inch apart. Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin seedlings to two or three inches between each after they’ve emerged, keeping the strongest specimens.

Add mulch to your planting area, to help retain moisture at the drip line.

Spring Sprinkles Should Do the Trick

These plants need a good amount of water, especially when pods are forming. If you get an inch of spring rains weekly, you’re in good shape. Anything less than that and you’ll have to supplement.

If soil tests warrant it, you can feed with phosphorus. But these plants gather their own nitrogen, so they don’t need supplements of that nutrient.

You’ll want to keep the garden area free of weeds by pulling the interlopers by hand.

Here Come the Bugs

P. sativum can be afflicted by aphids, which can be treated with neem oil such as this one from Bonide, available at Arbico Organics.

Bonide Neem Oil

This 32-ounce spray bottle is ready to use, and can also be used to treat powdery mildew, another problem from which this plant can suffer.

Monterey Bt Biological Insecticide

Cutworms are another potential pest of this plant. Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants to discourage these moth larvae, or use a Bt product, such as this one from Monterey, available through Arbico Organics.

You Can Eat the Whole Plant

Harvest English types before the peas have completely filled the pod. These veggies should be shelled and eaten as soon as possible – they will last only two to three days in the refrigerator.

You can also allow the English types to fully mature and dry on the vine, and then harvest the dried peas for use in soups, or to plant next year.

Snow peas should be picked as soon as they reach edible size. Consult the seed packet for optimal size at maturity, depending on your cultivar.

Pick sugar snaps while tender, as soon as the pods swell.

Snow and snap peas will remain tasty for as long as a week in the refrigerator. Just wait to wash them until you’re ready to eat.

Keep in mind: some varieties will need to have the strings removed before cooking.

The vines of these plants are also edible, and because they are the most tender and delicious when the plant is very young, some gardeners plant extra seeds just to harvest the tendrils and shoots, before the pods even form. They’re delicious added to fresh early-season salads.

A Salad Bar of Your Own Making

These green bits of goodness are wonderful sources of protein, fiber, and iron, and we’ve collected some recipes that are as tasty as they are healthful:

Let’s start with a fresh pesto pasta salad from our sister site, Foodal. English peas combine with other garden delights – basil and spinach – to create a refreshing summer salad.

Another salad from Foodal, made with black rice and a red wine vinaigrette, combines a hearty grain with greens, radishes, carrots, and our tasty emerald orbs.

Mushroom mattar masala is a delicious vegetarian side dish, especially  when it’s made with fresh vegetables from the garden. The Magic Saucepan shares the recipe for this one.

Or for a delectable casserole entree, try this lasagna bianca from Sugar Love Spices, with white sauce, asparagus, peas, and mushrooms.

For a change of pace, how about a creamy pesto zucchini pasta with peas? This quick dinner from The Fitchen makes use of coconut milk and white wine vinegar, with spiralized summer squash “noodles.”

Plump or Lean, It’s All Good

Nothing sings the promise of summer veggies to come like the springy flavor of peas, whether they’re chubby BBs thumbed from the shell, or flat as a stick of Wrigley’s and waiting to be sliced into a salad.

Among the few veggies that can take a frost with no ill effect, peas are easy to grow, provided you give them rich soil and plenty of water.

Do you grow this legume? Which variety grows best in your neck of the woods? Share your experience in the comments section below. And if you’d like to learn about another spring vegetable, check out our rhubarb growing guide.

Product photos via David’s Garden Seeds, Stonysoil Seed Company, Burpee, Bonide, and Monterey. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.

How to Grow Peas - Bob Vila

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Chances are the phrase “eat your peas” sounds familiar. But if the only thing that comes to mind are the mushy, canned variety, prepare to be converted. Fresh peas right off the vine taste nothing like their mass-produced cousins. They’re full of flavor, crisp, and in some cases they’re as sweet as candy.

The good news is that peas also are incredibly easy to grow and do well in cool weather, so they are often planted during shoulder seasons when other veggies are already fading or unable to start. This guide to growing peas will have you embracing peas on your plate again.

Common Name: Pea, Garden Pea, Snap Pea, Sugar Pea, Snow Pea
Scientific Name: Pisum sativum
Hardiness Zone: 2 to 11
Soil: Rich, quick-draining soil, pH 6 to 7.5
Light: Full sun
Water: Regular, even
Food: Little to none
Propagation: Sow directly in soil
Safety: Edible, nontoxic

Peas are lovely vining plants that are easy to grow in nearly any climate. Their vines range in size from 2 feet long to several feet high. Unlike other vegetables, the plants can tolerate quite a bit of cold and fog, so peas are an excellent cool-season crop and an attractive addition to a fall vegetable garden.

There are two different categories of peas: shelling peas and edible-pod peas. Shelling peas are usually called garden peas, and they require growers to open the pod (shell) to harvest the peas, and then discard the shell. Edible-pod peas include snap peas and snow (or sugar) peas. Snow peas are flatter than snap peas. The entire pea, including the shell, is edible.

If you’re wondering “is a pea a vegetable?” the answer is yes and no. Peas are legumes, though the fresh and frozen peas are considered starchy vegetables. No matter what you call it, nearly all of the pea plant is edible including the shoots, leaves, flowers, and pods.

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• Sugar Snap: sweet-tasting edible pods; eat right off the vine
• Little SnapPea Crunch: a small, crisp variety of snap pea great for containers
• Snowbird: A very early, cold-tolerant, dwarf snow pea
• Mammoth Melting Sugar: A large edible, sweet snow pea
• Lillian’s Caseload: Excellent taste, high-yield shelling pea
• Sugar Magnolia: Shelling pea with purple pods and bright green peas
• Lincoln: High-yield shelling pea, heat tolerant
• Little Marvel Garden Pea: Hardy, compact, high-yielding shelling pea

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Peas do best sown directly in the ground. Starting peas indoors is usually not worth the effort since peas like cool weather and are usually the first crop to go in and their roots don’t take kindly to transplanting. The most important thing when planting peas is giving them some kind of support, such as a trellis, on which to grow. A trellis might be as simple as a garden string fashioned between two stakes. Even bush varieties need some trellis support.

When to plant peas will depend on your climate. Peas don’t like temperatures above 85 degrees, so they are considered a cool-season crop. In areas with cold winters, peas can be the first crop sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is workable. For fall crops, plant up to 12 weeks before the first expected frost date.

In climates with milder winters, plant anytime from fall to early spring; however, if you live in a climate where springs turn hot (above 85 degrees) quickly, avoid planting too late. Most peas take 60 to 70 days to mature.

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Choose a place in your garden with full sun and good airflow. Garden peas are climbing vegetables that require support as they grow but be mindful of planting along a fence that doesn’t allow for air circulation. Not enough circulation leads to powdery mildew.

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Garden peas can tolerate various soils as long as there is adequate drainage. Enrich the soil with compost to create a nutrient-dense planting mix. You can maximize garden space by planting a tall, vining pea plant that will climb up a pole, and planting microgreens in its shade, not unlike companion planting with cucumbers and salad greens.

Planting peas is rewarding as most pea seedlings germinate within 1 to 2 weeks.

1. Plant seeds at the base of a trellis. How high will depend on the type of pea you’ve chosen.
2. Dig a narrow, shallow trench, about 1½  inches deep.
3. Plant the seeds 6 to 7 inches apart in the trench unless the seed packet suggests otherwise.
4. Press the seeds into the trench and cover them with 1 inch of soil.
5. Gently tap the soil to firm it over the seeds.
6. Water carefully to avoid flooding and dislodging the seeds.
7. Keep the soil evenly moist.
8. Once the pea seedlings are several inches high, you can mulch around the base of the plant to keep moisture in.

In general, peas do not put down deep roots. The plants, especially the dwarf or bush variety, do not grow very tall. For these reasons, it is possible to successfully grow them in a container. The biggest challenge is to ensure that the soil is both rich in nutrients and drains well. Some kind of trellis or support will need to be added to allow the peas to grow up and not simply vine over the sides. It’s advisable to set the trellis in place before the peas start to grow.

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Avoid overhead watering—water peas at the base of the plant, keeping the soil evenly moist. Watering in the early morning will help prevent wilting during the day and allows plants to dry out before cooler evenings, helping to prevent powdery mildew. Be careful not to flood out delicate pea seedlings.

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If peas are planted in a compost-rich planting mix, no fertilizing is required during the growing season. If the soil is lacking in nutrients, fertilize pea plants 6 weeks after germination with a water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10) and apply directly to the soil after watering in the morning.

Some growers choose to inoculate peas with Rhizobium, a bacterium that helps fix nitrogen from the air to store in the roots, resulting in a healthier, more vigorous plant. Look for a pea inoculant at any garden center or nursery. Prior to sowing the seeds, sprinkle a small amount of the inoculant directly into the seed packet and shake it. Many seed varieties will already be inoculated and will say so on the package. Peas will grow and produce without inoculation.

Nearly all parts of the pea plant, Pisum sativum, are edible and pose no risk to animals or humans. However, it should be noted that sweet pea plants, Lathyrus odoratus, which are grown for their flowers, are toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and horses. The seeds of the sweet pea are poisonous. To make matters even more confusing, there is an edible sweet pea variety called Lathyrus sativus, which can be consumed but should be avoided in large quantities.

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Pea seedlings are susceptible to slugs and snails. Because peas can be grown during cooler months, this is often a bigger problem in early spring or fall weather. Aphids can cause damage to plants, though not often the pods, and spread disease.

Powdery mildew is a common problem in the vegetable garden and pea plants are no exception. If caught early, the affected leaves can be removed to prevent spread. If it’s already started to spread, either wait until the peas mature, harvest the peas and then remove the plants, or pull out the diseased plants right away to prevent spreading. There are fungicides for powdery mildew, but it is difficult to spray the plants without coating the edible pods, and it is not generally advisable.

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Knowing how to grow peas is a great start, but understanding how to harvest and store them also is helpful. Harvesting peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest as well as how you store the pea.

Peas typically mature between 60 and 70 days after planting, though the exact time to maturity depends on the variety—this will be listed on the back of your seed packet. Most pea plants will begin to produce pods within 8 to 10 weeks. The pods first appear at the bottom of the plant. Harvest these right away to encourage more growth and pod production. Look for pods that are plump but not hard. If peas over-ripen, they become starchy and the shells become tough.

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Harvesting garden peas of any variety requires similar steps; however, the type of pea you’ve planted will dictate the pea’s readiness for harvest.

Snow peas are best when still flat, with just the beginning of peas forming inside. Sugar snap peas are at their sweetest when the pod looks plump and glossy, typically when the pods are 2 to 3 inches long, but the length varies depending on the exact variety. Garden peas are best when the peas are large but not fully developed. Look for pods that are full but not split or ready to burst. They will be somewhat cylindrical and still bright green.

1. Look for peas that are at peak readiness. Peas produce a lot of pods, and it won’t take long to learn the ideal stage for harvest once you’ve picked a few.
2. Harvest peas any time of the day, but morning is best, when they are plumpest.
3. All types of pea plant are delicate, so be careful when harvesting them. Try twisting the pod gently with one hand while holding the vine with the other, or use scissors or garden shears to remove the pods to avoid breaking the vine.
4. Peas are best when eaten right away.
5. Shell garden peas by splitting them open and gently scraping the peas inside into a bowl.
6. Some snow peas and snap peas have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating. If you plan to store your peas, wait to remove this.

If you are storing garden peas, shell the peas and then immerse them in cold water to chill. Some gardeners will shell their peas directly into a bowl of chilled water. Once they are cool, remove them from the water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator in a bag or container. They should hold their quality for up to a week in the refrigerator.

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You can also freeze peas following the same method, allowing them to dry completely before freezing. Don’t freeze whole garden peas; always shell them first.

Snow peas and snap peas should be cooled right after picking. Dunk them in cold water, allow them to dry, and store them in the refrigerator for up to a week. Both have fibrous strings at the edge of the pod that should be removed before eating, but leave them intact until you are ready to eat them. You can freeze snow and snap peas similarly to garden peas after cooling the pods and allowing them to dry.

If storing dried peas, particularly toward the end of harvest season, allow the pea pods to dry completely on the vine. They will start to brown and will sound like a rattle. Once the pods appear dry, pull the entire plant up and hang it to dry. Once the rest of the plant has dried out, remove the pods, shell the peas inside, and store for planting next year.

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how to plant, grow and harvest — AgroXXI