Growing leek from seed


Seed to Harvest to Table ~ Homestead and Chill

In all our years gardening, and with a seemingly endless list of veggie varieties we’ve grown, we discovered leeks later in our gardening game. But once we started growing leeks, I was like: where have you been all my life? Leeks are delicious, beautiful, fun and easy to grow (albeit a tad slow). Yet their journey to maturation is a laid back one, as very few pests bother leeks, and they’re also frost-tolerant.

Ready to become a certified leek geek? Read along to learn how to grow leeks, from seed through harvest and beyond. We’ll talk about the best time of year to grow leeks, starting seeds, transplanting seedlings, ongoing care, and different varieties of leeks to grow. After harvest, we’ll also cover several ways to store, preserve, and eat fresh leeks – including leek greens!


What are Leeks?


Leeks are part of the Allium family, alongside onions, scallions, and garlic. They have an onion-like flavor, but are far more mild and sweet. Unlike many alliums, leeks don’t form bulbs. Instead, they’re easily recognized by their long, thick, cylindrical white stalk. Atop their stalk, leeks grow a fan of wide, flat, blue-green leaves – which can be a bit tough but are also edible! Leeks are considered a cool-season crop, though they are adapted to growing in a wide range of temperatures, much like onions.

Nutritionally speaking, leeks are rockstars! While low in calories, they boast an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals including manganese, iron, folate, vitamin K, vitamin B6 and vitamin C. Like the rest of the allium family, leeks also contain an high amount of flavonoid antioxidants. According to WebMD “Flavonoids are antioxidants and may have anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, and anticancer properties, as well as other health benefits.”

A harvest of Jumper leeks from our garden


Growing Leeks: At a Glance


Types of Leeks: Short vs Long Season


Leek varieties fall into one of two general categories: long season or short.

Short season leeks, also known as “early season” leeks, are ready to harvest within 50-100 days of planting seedlings. Short season leeks are generally smaller, more mild-tasting, and less hardy than long season leeks. Yet they are ideal for gardeners with a short cool-season growing window. Popular short season leek varieties include King Richard, Varna, Rally and Lancelot.

On the other hand, long season leek varieties need more than 100 days to reach maturity – some up to 180 days after transplanting! Even more, long season leeks can often be left in the ground for “storage” after they reach maturity, for up to 210 days (or until the ground freezes). These leeks are larger, more cold-tolerant, and can be stored longer – including in the ground or after harvest. Long season leeks also benefit from blanching, described more to follow. 

Notable long season leek varieties (100-150 days on average) are Comanche, Bandit, Runner, Carentan, Tardorna, Giant American Flag and Giant Musselburgh.

Sometimes you’ll also see a third “mid-season” leek category, capturing the leeks that take 90-120 days to mature in their own intermediate group.  The vast majority of leek varieties are mid to long season types.

A late spring harvest of leeks (planted in late fall). Here on the temperate Central Coast of California, we can grow leeks virtually year-round.


When to Plant Leeks


When is the best time to plant leeks, you wonder? Most gardeners plant short season leeks in the spring to harvest in summer to early fall. In the north, long season leeks are also planted in spring, but can be harvested up until the ground freezes. Mature leeks are frost-tolerant.

Southern gardeners with mild, virtually frost-free winters have more flexibility. They too can plant leeks in spring, as well as in late summer or fall as part of their winter garden. Fall-planted leeks can overwinter to harvest in late winter or spring. Here on the temperate Central Coast of California, we grow leeks year-round!

For spring planting, start leek seeds indoors in late winter about 8 to 10 weeks before your area’s last spring frost date. Transplant leek seedlings outside after the last risk of spring frost has passed. See more tips about growing leeks from seed below.

To determine the best time to start leek seeds and transplant them outdoors for your particular zone, check out the Homestead and Chill planting calendars – available for every USDA hardiness zone!

An example of the Homestead and Chill planting calendars, zone 9. Get a printable planting calendar for every zone as part of our free garden planning toolkit for email subscribers!


Growing Leeks from Seed or Seedlings


There are two ways to grow leeks: start them from seed yourself, or purchase already-started seedlings to plant. We have done both, but usually prefer to start from seed. 

One key benefit of growing leeks from seed is the ability to choose specific varieties that sound intriguing or most suitable for your climate. For instance, we look for leek varieties that are naturally resistant to rust – a fungal disease that affects the allium family, which is fairly common in our area.  

Yet there is nothing wrong with growing leeks from nursery seedlings either! (If you can find them at your local garden center, that is.) Nursery seedlings are especially convenient if you don’t have seed starting supplies, have a short growing season, and/or didn’t start seeds on time.


Should I start leek seeds indoors or direct-sow leeks outside?


To grow leeks from seed, you’ll find the most success by starting the seeds indoors (or in a greenhouse) in containers and transplanting seedlings outside later. 

While you technically can direct-sow leek seeds outside, I don’t usually recommend it since the seeds can be finicky to germinate. Plus, long-season leek varieties will greatly benefit from the jump start they’ll get inside – much sooner than you could start them outside in colder climates. Last but not least, starting leeks from seed in a container allows you to bury the leek stem deeper come transplant time, which helps promote the most upright, tender, and delicious leeks.  

Leek seedlings started in nursery trays, with a few seeds planted per cell.


Tips for Starting Leek Seeds IndoorsMany leek seedlings started in a single larger container, also known as the multi-sow method. These leek seedlings will need to be gently teased apart later before transplanting.


How to Plant Leeks (Transplant Leek Seedlings)


Once the leek seedlings are at least 7 to 8 inches tall and about as thick as a pencil, it’s time to plant your leeks outside! Whether you are growing leeks from seed or purchased seedlings, the following transplanting tips apply:


How deep should I plant leek seedlings?


This deserves it’s own discussion because there is a lot of confusion and conflicting information out there about transplanting leek seedlings. Most garden experts recommend planting leek seedlings deep (up to 6″, with most of the stem buried) to reduce the need for blanching. Planting leeks deep will result in a longer white stalk, which some folks find more desirable. Yet deeply-planted or hilled leeks may also harbor more dirt inside this way – so there’s a tradeoff.

However, you don’t have to bury them so deep. Leeks grow just fine if only minimally buried, planted 2-3″ deep. Their stalk color will simply be light green instead of pearly white. If you desire extra-white leeks, you can always blanch them later after planting (read more below). Or, simply let them grow au natural like we usually do!

Some of our leek seedlings, which were started in 6-packs. Since there was only one leek seedling per cell, I can plant the whole root ball as-is.These two leek seedlings were sharing the same cell, so I gently teased them apart before planting.These leek seedlings were growing as a cluster in a single container, so they need to be carefully separated before each one gets planted in its own hole.

Leek Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Fertilizer, Water & Mulch

Immature leeks in our garden


Blanching Leeks


Blanching is the act of covering or hilling soil around leek stalks as they grow, blocking sunlight from the lower portion. It encourages the leaves to grow higher up the plant and results in a longer, whiter stalk. Un-blanched leek stalks are light green instead. Certain leek varieties are “self-blanching” and produce white stalks even when exposed to the sun while growing.

Some folks claim that the more white and blanched the stalk, the more tender and sweet the leek is. However, this claim has also been repeatedly refuted in blind taste tests when comparing blanched to un-blanched leeks. So, it seems blanching is more about aesthetic than anything.

To blanch leeks, simply hill up soil or mulch around the base of the plant, burying a couple inches of the stalk (but not too high or dirt will end up between the leaves). Do this two or three times throughout the growing season, hilling higher each time.  Another way to blanch leeks is to cover or wrap their stalks, such as with cut cardboard tubes made from toilet paper or paper towel rolls.

Blanching is most useful when leek seeds are directly sown outside, or if seedlings are buried shallowly when they’re first transplanted. When leeks seedlings are transplanted deeply with the “dibble method” or in deep trenches, the need for hilling is reduced or eliminated. It’s also less necessary when growing short-season leek varieties. 

Rather than hilling soil to blanch leeks, the base of these stalks have been wrapped to block the sun.Another example of blanching leeks.One of our homegrown leeks, left to grow without blanching. The stalk is light green in color instead of white (minus the tip) but are still plenty tender and delicious.


Leek Pests & Diseases


Thankfully, leeks are inflicted by few pests compared to most garden crops, making them relatively fuss-free to grow. Rather, leeks, onions, and other members of the allium family naturally deter many pest insects! Leeks are most susceptible to pests or diseases that affect onions.  


The most common leek pests include: 

Leek rust aka allium rust


Flowering or Bolting Leeks


Us gardeners grow leeks as annual crops, though they’re technically biennials. That means if they’re left long enough in the ground (beyond their prime harvest time), they will form a center flowering stalk and eventually produce seeds. Leeks may also form a flowering stalk prematurely, referred to as “bolting” or “going to seed”. 

Leeks may bolt when presented with unfavorable growing conditions, such as too little or irregular water, too much fertilizer (especially high phosphorus fertilizer), or too little sunlight. Unlike many garden veggies that bolt due to hot weather, consistently cold conditions (e.g. daytime temperatures regularly under 45°F) can cause leeks to bolt instead. The best way to prevent leeks from bolting is to grow leeks at the right time of year for your climate, and transplant seedlings before they become too large or root-bound. 

Once leeks begin to flower, their stalks and leaves become increasingly tough, woody and bitter (though still technically edible). Therefore, if you notice your leeks start to flower, harvest them as soon as possible since the quality will only continue to decline. That is, unless you want to leave the flowers to enjoy! They’re quite beautiful, and popular with the pollinators too.  


When and How to Harvest Leeks


Harvest leeks once they’ve reached the desired size. Check the description of the particular leek variety you are growing to determine their expected maturation time and size. Like onions, you can harvest leeks early and enjoy them as tender premature versions of their adult selves if you’d like! 

One of the beautiful things about growing leeks is that you don’t have to harvest them all at once. Long season leek varieties can be left and stored in the ground until you’re ready for them – as long as they don’t begin to flower and aren’t exposed to a hard freeze (though they’re frost tolerant). When hard freezing conditions are expected, either harvest the leeks or protect them with mulch and horticultural fleece.

When it comes time to harvest leeks, remember: DIG, don’t pull! Leeks can be deep-rooted in the soil, and pulling up on them risks breaking the precious stalk. Instead, carefully insert a small trowel or spading fork straight down into the soil near the stem to gently loosen and lift the leek upwards from below.  

To harvest leeks, gently dig around them, prying them upwards from below. Don’t pull!Leeks after harvest. These leeks had been blanched/hilled while growing.


Storing Fresh Leeks


After harvest, avoid washing or trimming the leeks until you’re ready to use them. (That is, unless you intend to use them within the next few days). You can trim off the dirty roots, but don’t cut into the stalk itself. Store fresh leeks in the refrigerator tucked inside a plastic bag (or two, if they’re extra tall). Refrigerated leeks should stay good for at least a week or two, sometimes longer. 

Another option to store fresh leeks is in a root cellar, ideally between 32 and 40°F. After harvest, transfer the leeks (unwashed, roots still intact) into a bucket of horticulture sand or fresh potting soil. Stand them upright in the sand/soil and cover several inches of the bottom stalk. Certain leek varieties can stay good for several months in a root cellar! 


Ways to Eat Leeks (and Leek Greens)


Leeks are a wonderful mild substitute for onion in any recipe. The tender stalks are fantastic thinly-sliced on top of pizza, sourdough focaccia, in stir-fry, pasta or rice dishes, omelets and quiche, soups, sauces, and more. They’re also fantastic grilled, or turned into pesto. Then of course perhaps leek’s most renowned use: potato leek soup! Try our creamy vegan potato leek soup recipe here. 

Try our creamy (vegan) potato leek soup recipe here.


How to Prepare Leeks


The cylindrical stalk is the most edible, tender, and delicious portion of the leek. To prepare leeks, cut off the firm root end as well as the upper leafy green portion. (But don’t discard those just yet!) Peel away a few outer layers of the stalk if needed; they may be more tough or dirty. Finally, thinly slice the stalk into rounds to use in your recipe of choice. 

Since leeks are grown partially underground they can be quite dirty, including hiding between the layers of leaves. In addition to running them under water, you can clean leeks by soaking cut leeks in a bowl of water if needed. The dirt will settle to the bottom of the bowl, while the leek pieces will float and can be scooped out. (I’ve found commercially grown leeks to be far more dirty than our homegrown leeks, and don’t usually need to soak ours). 


Can you eat leek greens?


Yes, you absolutely can eat leek greens! Yet they can be quite tough and chewy, especially the uppermost portion. Therefore, I suggest using the lower leek greens (closer to the white stalk) for cooking applications. Thinly-sliced, those leek greens make a great addition to soup or other recipes where they can cook long enough to soften. Or, if they get blended up – like added to our besto pesto recipe. Yet our favorite way to use leek greens is to dehydrate and turn them into leek powder. We use some of the toughest top leek greens for that!

We were using these homegrown leek stalks to make potato leek soup, including some of the leafy green portion closest to the stalk (shown on the top right). Then, most of the remaining greens were cut up to dry into homemade leek powder. The toughest tattered tips go into the compost.Cut leek greens laid out on our Excalibur dehydrator trays, ready to dry!


Can you eat leeks raw?


Sure can! Just as you can eat raw onions, raw leeks offer an even more mild (and more enjoyable, in my opinion) pop of flavor to many meals. Add thinly-sliced raw leek stalks mixed into salads (including potato or pasta salad), dips, pesto, or homemade salad dressings. They’re also great as a garnish on top of roasted veggies, sandwiches, egg dishes, soups, salads, and more. I personally would not eat tough leek greens raw.


Preserving Leeks


Fresh leeks can be frozen, dehydrated, canned, fermented or pickled. We love to preserve leeks by drying them to make leek powder. The result is a delicious sweet onion-like seasoning powder. Learn how to make and use leek green powder here. Freezing leeks is also easy, explained below. Another great way to preserve leeks is to freeze potato leek soup!    


Freezing Leeks


Freezing leeks is a great way to preserve leeks when you have more than you can eat fresh. Later, frozen leeks can be added to soups, sauces, or other recipes that call for cooked leeks. However, their texture won’t be quite as great as fresh leeks. 

To freeze leeks, cut them into thin rounds so they’re ready to use without further preparation after thawing. Line a baking sheet or other tray that can fit in your freezer with parchment paper, then lay the cut leeks out in a single layer. Next, freeze the tray until the leeks are frozen solid (overnight or 24 hours).

Finally, transfer the individually-frozen leek pieces into a freezer safe storage container and place back in the freezer for final storage. Move quickly so they don’t defrost while you work. This way, the leeks won’t stick together into one solid clump, making it easier to pull out just a portion of them as needed. 


And now you know how to grow leeks – and then some!


In closing, I hope this article boosted your confidence and excitement about growing leeks. Between their easy care, unique appearance, and versatility in the kitchen, they’ve certainly become a staple in our garden! Please let me know if you have any lingering questions that I didn’t address in the comments below. If you found this article to be helpful, please feel free to spread the leek love by pinning or sharing this post. Thank you so much for reading!


Ready to learn more? Don’t miss these awesome grow guides:

Growing Leeks From Sowing to Harvest

, written by Benedict Vanheems

You’ve got to admire leeks. They’re exceptionally hardy, generally trouble-free, and best of all they will provide beautiful long stems from autumn right the way through to spring at a time when other harvests are thin on the ground. Now’s the time to start thinking about sowing them…so let’s get started!

Luscious Leeks

Leeks are very hardy vegetables, which in most regions will safely sit through frost and snow to be lifted as needed. You can prolong the harvest period by selecting a mix of varieties. Early season leeks are less hardy but will be ready for autumn, while mid and late season leeks will give you smooth stems for winter and spring.

Grow leeks in a sunny, open position in well-dug soil that’s had plenty of organic matter added to it. The fungal disease rust can be a minor problem from summer onwards, so look out for varieties described as ‘rust resistant’ and make sure you leave enough space between plants for good air movement.

Sowing Leeks

The earliest varieties can be sown under cover from late winter, with others following on from mid spring. Leeks are usually sown in pots or trays of potting soil and then transplanted into their final position when they’re big enough.

For guidance on when to start sowing why not try our Garden Planner, which uses data from your nearest weather station to recommend the best times to sow, plant and harvest your crops.

Sowing is very easy. Start by sieving potting soil into pots or trays. Gently tamp the potting soil down then sow the seeds very thinly so they fall about an inch (2-3cm) apart. You can also sow two seeds per cell in a plug tray. Now cover them over with a thin layer of more potting soil, and water them. Keep the potting soil moist as the seeds germinate and the seedlings grow on.

Early sowings should be placed on a sunny indoor windowsill or into a greenhouse where the warmth will encourage quicker growth. As the seedlings grow you can if you wish separate them out and pot them on into individual pots.

Transplanting Leeks

Before transplanting your young leeks make sure you’ve acclimatized them to outdoor conditions by leaving them outside for increasingly longer periods over the course of one to two weeks. They’re ready to transplant when they are six to eight inches (15-20cm) tall.

Begin by ‘dibbing’ (poking) holes that are about the same height as the leek seedlings' stems into well-dug soil. You can use a purpose-made dibber for this, or improvise with a cut-down handle from an old broken spade or fork, or even use the handle-end of a hand tool such as a trowel. Make one hole for each plant. The holes should be about six inches (15cm) apart, with a foot (30cm) left between rows, or if you’re planting in blocks space then seven inches (20cm) apart each way.

Now carefully remove the leeks from their pots and, if they haven’t already been potted on, tease the roots apart. Place the seedlings into the holes. It’s important that the roots reach right down to the bottom of the hole, so if necessary, help them along – you may need to trim them to get them in if they’re very long.

With your leeks in position, fill the holes to the brim with water and leave to drain. Do not fill in the holes. The soil will naturally fall back in with time, allowing the shanks (stems) to swell easily.

Caring for Leeks

If you want to maximize space you can grow fast-growing salad leaves in between your newly planted leeks while you wait for them to establish. Salad crops are shallow-rooted so they won't compete with the deeply-planted leeks. By midsummer the leeks will need all available space to encourage high light levels and good air circulation.

Easy-care leeks need very little attention. Water the plants in very dry weather and keep the ground between the leeks weed-free by hand weeding or hoeing weekly.

If you want really long, white stems, you can ‘blanch’ your leeks two to three weeks before you want to harvest them. Simply draw the soil up around the shanks to exclude light, or tie cardboard tubes around the stems.

Harvesting Leeks

Leeks can be harvested as soon as they’ve reached the desired size. Slip a fork underneath the plant to lever it out, while pulling up on the leaves. Trim the roots and any damaged leaves onto the compost heap then wash away the soil ready for the kitchen. Hardy varieties may be dug up as needed over the winter, though in very cold areas you may want to dig them up before the ground freezes solid.

Leeks are very versatile vegetables, and can be added to all manner of recipes, including stir-fries, quiches, soups, pies and tarts. For a luxury side dish try adding cream and grated cheese to sautéed leeks before serving piping hot with a grind of the pepper and salt mills. Mmm!

Look after your leeks and they’ll love you back! If you’re already in the know about leeks and fancy sharing some cultivation or culinary tips, do drop us a comment below. Happy sowing!

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Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: garden plants reprinted: Last amendments:

Content

Late varieties of leeks ripen for a long time - more than 180 days. Their productivity is the same as that of mid-season varieties, but they are stored longer. The leaves of the late onion are wide, blue-green in color, often with a waxy coating. They are very densely located on a false stem and depart from it at almost a right angle, which makes the plants look squat. Their legs are dense, thick and short. Popular late varieties of leek are:

  • Karantansky - the height of the bleached leg of this variety reaches 25 cm, diameter - 4 cm with a weight of 200 or more grams. The leaves are wide, sprawling, dark green with a strong wax coating;
  • Elefant – frost-resistant and drought-resistant, spicy-tasting variety of Czech selection with a stem up to 25 cm long and weighing about 200 g, blue-green leaves with a strong wax coating and a weak bulb;
  • Bandit is a beautiful tall plant, bred by Dutch breeders, with a short thick stem of excellent taste. The variety is cold resistant;
  • Autumn Giant is another variety of Dutch selection, forming a large stem up to 40 cm high and up to 8 cm in diameter. The main advantage of the variety is its excellent keeping quality;
  • Asgeos - winter-hardy variety with wide dark bluish-green leaves, weak bulb and stem of semi-sharp taste up to 20 cm high, but weighing up to 350 g;
  • Mercury – plant resistant to viral infections with dark green leaves, stem of semi-sharp taste up to 25 cm high and weighing up to 200 g.

Properties of leeks - harm and benefits

Useful properties of leeks

Leek is characterized by a high content of vitamins (B2, B1, E, C), carotene, as well as protein substances, potassium salts, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, calcium and sulfur. This type of onion has the ability to increase the content of ascorbic acid by more than one and a half times during storage.

The healing properties of leek have been known since antiquity: it was used in the treatment of gout, scurvy, rheumatism, obesity, metabolic disorders, beriberi, exhaustion, urolithiasis, mental and physical fatigue.

Clinical studies have found that leeks have a choleretic and diuretic effect, increase appetite, improve liver function.

Leek is also used to slow down the development of oncological diseases, such as cancer of the intestines, prostate and uterus. In addition, it restores the body, gives strength and improves tone during the spring beriberi.

Leek is also used to heal abrasions and scratches, as well as to increase hemoglobin in the blood, in the treatment of tuberculosis and anthrax, streptococcal and staphylococcal infections, diarrhea, insomnia, chills, asthma attacks, arthritis and other diseases and disorders of the body.

Leek has a minimum calorie content, so it can be classified as a dietary product and recommended to anyone who watches their figure or fights obesity. Leek is used to prepare mashed soups, borscht, pickles, it is used as an ingredient in multi-component dishes - vegetable stew, scrambled eggs, casseroles, salads, leeks are also added to pizza. Braised leeks seasoned with lemon dressing are used as a side dish.

Leek - contraindications

Fresh leeks are not recommended for diseases of the stomach and duodenum, but after heat treatment they will not cause harm. The product is contraindicated in diseases of the kidneys and bladder. Leek should be used with caution in people suffering from kidney stones, as it contains the substance oxalite. And overeating a leek can cause a headache even in a perfectly healthy person.

Literature

  1. Read related topics on Wikipedia
  2. Peculiarities and other plants of the Amaryllis family
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online


Batun: growing from seeds in the garden
Green shallots: growing on sawdust in the window

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outdoor planting and care

Some gardeners find it easier to grow onions than leeks. However, it is worth knowing that the gastronomic qualities and rich vitamin composition of leeks are significantly superior in their subtlety of taste (not spicy, but even slightly sweet) of their onion counterpart. Nevertheless, even a novice summer resident can plant and grow leeks on his site, which you will definitely see by reading this material to the end.

Well, then you will learn when and how to plant leeks for seedlings (including whether it is possible to plant leeks directly into the ground, so to speak, grow them in a seedless way), how to properly care for a decent harvest.

Contents

  • 1 How to plant leeks for seedlings: timing, preparations and staged planting
    • 1.1 Sowing dates
    • 1.2 Required planting containers and soil
    • 9.301 Seed preparation and treatment10012
    • 1.4 Planting seeds for seedlings
  • 2 Leek seedling care after planting
    • 2.1 Picking
  • caring for leeks in the garden after planting
  • 5 Seedless cultivation of leeks
  • 6 When to harvest and how to store

How to plant leeks for seedlings: timing, preparatory measures and staged planting

In the south, due to earlier warming up of the earth and a long summer, leeks are planted with seeds directly into the ground; return frosts and a relatively belated onset of consistently warm weather. Therefore, due to the fact that the growing season of leeks is very long (about 6 months), it is better to grow leeks through seedlings in this region.

Sowing dates

As for the approximate planting dates, as a rule, seedlings are planted for leek seedlings from the end of February until the month of April .

By the way! The site already has a separate material on how to determine when to plant leeks for seedlings , including favorable days according to the lunar calendar in 2022.

Required planting containers and soil

The choice of containers for sowing leeks for seedlings is not limited to purchased options, you can always make a planting container yourself.

By the way! An excellent option would be planting and growing leeks in peat tablets without a pick.

In order for a leek to sprout successfully and grow quickly, it needs light and nutritious soil. Heavy (dense) or excessively clay soil does not suit him.

You can buy ready-made potting soil from a gardening store, but ready-made potting mixes for eggplants, peppers, and cucumbers are great for this.

Recipe for self-preparation of soil mixture for growing seedlings of leeks:

  • 1/4 peat;
  • 1/4 garden (garden) land;
  • 2/4 manure.

Before sowing, it is desirable to decontaminate the prepared soil by one of the methods , spilling a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and even better Fitosporin .

Seed preparation and treatment before sowing

Before planting leek seeds, they must be treated for better germination, and it does not matter if you plant the leeks first in seedlings or directly in the ground.

Remember! The optimal shelf life and, as a result, the germination of leek seeds is 3 years, then the chances for friendly seedlings of crops are significantly reduced.

There are many ways to prepare leek seeds before planting.

For example, you can simply soak the seeds in lukewarm water, soak for 24 hours, and then dry.

Another processing option can be keeping the planting material in a thermos at a water temperature of about 40 degrees for 3-5 hours. After that, the seeds must be rinsed in cold water and dried.

It is possible to dress leek seeds in a special solution, for example Fitosporina .

Planting seeds for seedlings

Sowing seeds of leek occurs differently depending on the size of the planting container: if it is a separate container, for example, cups, then it is better to place 1 seed in each (although, for better further selection can be sown in 3-4, so that later only the strongest seedling is left).

So, step-by-step instructions for planting leeks for seedlings:

  1. Fill containers with moistened substrate.
  2. Make small grooves 1-1.5 cm deep.
  3. Sow the seeds at a distance of 4-5 centimeters from each other and cover lightly with soil.
  4. Then sprinkle the whole surface with an additional 0.5 cm layer of sand and pour over.
  5. Now you can cover the crops with a lid or plastic wrap, or you can use the most ordinary shoe covers (to create the effect of a greenhouse) and put them in a warm place where the air temperature is around + 21-25 degrees throughout the day.

Video: planting leeks for seedlings

You can also sow leeks in snail or non-woven napkin. How to do this, see the following video:

Care of leek seedlings after planting

cooler place. There the temperature in the room at night should be at the level of + 10-12 degrees, in the daytime - + 15-17 degrees. Under such conditions, planting should live for 1 week. Then the temperature must be raised again to + 13-15 degrees at night and + 18-20 degrees during the day. It is in this mode that you need to keep the seedlings until they are finally transplanted into open ground.

Video: care of leek seedlings

Onion seedlings require 12 hours of daylight to grow normally . Therefore, when sowing early, you need to immediately think about how you will illuminate the leek: these will be more expensive fitolamps or economical LED counterparts.

Leek needs frequent and heavy watering . The soil should not be allowed to dry out, the leek germinates well only in moist soil.

Important! Due to the fact that the stalks of young leek seedlings are very tender, they need to be watered very carefully. That is why a constant additional sprinkling of earth into the seedlings is required, which ensures the correct formation of the leek bulb.

After 1 month from the moment of seedling formation, it is necessary to start thinning so that the distance between seedlings is somewhere between 3-4 cm.

also stem thickening by pruning plants every 14 days, while maintaining the height of the onion at a level of 10 cm from the ground.

Video: leek seedling care - pruning (cutting)

Leek seedlings need a fertilizer feed for best growth. So, it is desirable to carry out exactly 2, top dressings. The first - a couple of weeks after germination and the second - about a week before transplanting to the garden. Can be used as ready-made fertilizers (for example, Kemira-universal or Nitroammophoska).

Interesting! Bird droppings are what leeks need as fertilizer. To prepare such top dressing, you need to dilute 0.5 kg of litter in 10 liters of water, then water the plantings as carefully as possible, without falling on the seedlings themselves.

A week or more before planting the leek in the ground (i.e. 7 weeks after the emergence of the first shoots), the seedlings require preliminary hardening . Therefore, gradually begin to take out planting containers with seedlings on the street (preferably left in partial shade), every day increasing the time of his stay in the open air.

Pick

Please note! Picking leek seedlings is undesirable, so plant the seeds immediately in spacious containers.

If you have planted the leek too thickly, then transplanting young seedlings must be carried out very, very carefully, in no case damaging the small roots.

Method for planting leek seedlings in open ground: terms, rules and rules for further care

The appearance of 3-4 true leaves in leek seedlings is a signal for transplanting seedlings from planting containers into open ground. As a rule, this occurs approximately between 55 and 65 days from the moment of germination, depending on the variety chosen.

If you haven't prepared the soil since autumn, don't worry, you can do it in spring too. Mark out the bed in advance, dig the ground and apply fertilizer (for digging).

Leek does not favor or grow in acidic soils. Therefore, if you are not sure that we have a soil of neutral acidity, then add, for example, lime or dolomite flour .

Tip! Leek grows very well next to beets, carrots, strawberries and celery, so they can be planted side by side, for example, in alternating beds.

According to the crop rotation, if you plant a leek in a garden where legumes (peas) were previously grown, as well as potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage or green manure , then it will grow well.

By the way! Do not plant onions in the same place 2 years in a row.

Just before planting, lightly (1/3 or 1/4) pinch off the roots and top of the leek seedlings. Such shortening will have a positive effect on the speedy rooting and on the further production of better greenery.

By the way! To improve the survival of seedlings, leek roots are recommended to be dipped in a clay mash with mullein (1 to 1).

Leek seedlings are planted in small V-shaped grooves 10-12-13 cm deep and at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other and at a distance between rows of 35-45 cm. This planting pattern will be ideal for subsequent hilling of beds.

Leek can be planted in separate containers and in individual holes.

Important! Do not forget to lightly sprinkle the grooves (furrows) with a mixture of humus and ash before planting onions (1 bucket of humus per 0. 5 liter jar of ash).

How to care for leeks in the garden after planting the basic procedures of agricultural technology for growing leeks.

Leek care includes the following agrotechnical measures:

  • hilling;
  • loosening and weeding;
  • watering;
  • groundbait;
  • treatment for diseases and pests.

After the young seedlings take root, and the stalks reach a thickness of 0.5-0.7 cm (so to speak, they become like pencils), then you can already start doing light hilling, namely: little by little pour the earth under the stems. Real hilling can be started only after 45-60 days from the date of planting the seedlings.

Please note! Hilling is the most important part of leek care. it is this that leads to the bleaching of the lower parts of its stem.

If you ignore regular hilling (for the whole season it must be done 4 to 5 times), then you will grow a tasteless green "trunk".

leek should be watered frequently, about once every 4-6 days. Naturally, if the days are hot and the weather is dry, then it is necessary to increase the amount of watering. You can water with cold water, somewhere at the rate of 1 bucket of water per 1 sq. garden meter.

Important! It is necessary to monitor the moisture content of the soil, as constant moisture stagnation adversely affects the growth and development of onions, and can also contribute to its diseases. However, the same applies to the lack of moisture in plantings.

By the way! The site already has a general article on the rules for watering onions .

Leek responds very well to feeding chicken manure with the addition of phosphorus and potash fertilizers. It is necessary to breed in the following proportion: 1 part of litter and 20 parts of water.

In addition to hilling, fertilizing and watering, regular loosening and weeding of plantings from weeds should definitely be included in the care of the leek.

Seedless leeks

As mentioned earlier, seedless leeks are only suitable for southern areas.

With the onset of April-May, when the earth warms up enough and stable warm weather sets in, the time for sowing leek seeds in open ground is also suitable. This is due to the fact that onion seedlings do not tolerate frost, although they are quite resistant to cold.

The basic requirements for a bed for planting leeks with seeds in open ground are as follows:

  • The soil must in no case be acidic and heavy, leeks grow well only on light and neutral soils;
  • a place for a bed on the site is better to choose well-lit and moisture-retaining.

Step-by-step instructions for planting leek seeds outdoors are as follows:

  • Treat the seeds (of course, you can use the same methods as for sowing seedlings)
  • Preparing a garden bed. First dig the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm (shovel bayonet), and then add fertilizer to it, and then dig again and lightly tamp.
  • Now you need to make grooves and sow seeds in them at a distance of 10 cm and sprinkle with earth.

Further care of leeks is fundamentally no different from care of onions grown from seedlings.

When to harvest and how to store

The harvest time of leek is determined by its variety: certain varieties can be harvested as early as late summer - August, others created for long storage - only in mid-autumn, that is, starting from October .

How to harvest leeks for storage? First you need to dig the plant, and then pull it out, holding the stem with both hands. Loose earth makes it easy to pull out the stems without resorting to the use of additional funds. Now the onion needs to be cut to 20-30 centimeters in length, while shortening the roots to 1.5-2.5 cm. Be careful not to cut the roots completely, otherwise the leek will simply rot during storage.

Leek can be stored in a basement or cellar, perhaps even a shed or garage. It is only important that the air temperature is at least 0 degrees.

Pearl onions, subject to the optimal storage temperature, have every chance and opportunity to lie like this until spring and not lose their useful properties.

By the way! The leek has one very distinctive feature: during storage, the level of ascorbic acid in it rises by 150%.

Video: growing, harvesting and storing leeks

As you already understood, growing strong and healthy seedlings of leeks and correctly planting them in open ground will not be difficult even for a beginner vegetable grower and summer resident.


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