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Fruit trees to plant


Best fruit trees: 10 to grow in your backyard

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When choosing the best fruit trees to grow in your garden, prioritize the fruits you most enjoy eating.

Nurturing your own organic, home-grown fruit is simply one of the best backyard ideas. It is so rewarding and the produce tastes far superior to anything you can buy. You will also be able to grow varieties that are rarely seen at the grocery store.

‘There are lots of ways you can add fruit trees to your kitchen garden ideas, be that in a dedicated orchard, espaliered on fences, fanned across walls, grown in containers, or planted among ornamentals,’ says Period Living’s gardening expert Leigh Clapp. 

Bear in mind that home-grown fruit won't look as perfect as store-bought – but that's a good thing. ‘Don’t expect the fruit to look the same unless you’re willing to use pesticides and fungicides on a regular basis,’ says Clive Harris, founder of DIY Garden .  

’You shouldn't be put off by an odd shape or a few brown spots, because the flavor is so much better.'

Make sure you learn how to plant fruit trees correctly in order to get them off to a good start.

How to choose the best fruit trees for your garden

‘It's important to only choose fruit tree varieties that are suited to your area,’ says Pete Smith, arborist and urban forestry program manager at Arbor Day Foundation , who advises asking the local county extension specialists for advice. 

Your hardiness zone is the biggest factor in how suitable a fruit tree is for your area, although your soil type also plays a part. 

‘Only buy a fruit tree that can withstand your temperatures – otherwise blossom won’t appear and that means no fruit,’ says Harris.

You also need to know whether cross-pollination will be necessary, as a number of fruit trees aren’t self-fertile. This means you won’t get a good crop without at least one partner tree. 

'Check whether your preferred tree requires two different varieties to cross-pollinate and bear fruit,’ adds Smith.

If you are short on space, then there is another solution: ‘A "family" fruit tree of apples, pears, plums or cherries may be ideal for a small space as they consist of two or three compatible varieties grafted onto the one tree that are selected to cross-pollinate with one another,’ says Clapp.

Whether you have a large or small garden, you also need to choose the right rootstock for your fruit tree.

'These will dictate the overall height and vigour of growth you will have. Some fruit trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks to be more manageable, but in an exposed site a vigorous tree would cope better,' says Clapp.

Happily, most fruits are available in a range of sizes, from dwarf trees, which are a some of the best trees to grow in pots, to large trees that will make an impact in your garden design.

So, with our pick of the best fruit trees, you will find one to grow in every situation.

1. Apple tree

(Image credit: Getty Images)

One of the easiest and most versatile options, apples are arguably the best fruit trees for beginners to grow.

‘The two main categories are dessert apples for eating, and cookers, with some good for both, such as heritage varieties ‘Blenheim Orange’ or ‘Court Pendu Plat’,’ says Clapp.

There are a number of self-fertile varieties of apple available, though it’s usually best to plant one or two different partner trees close by for cross-pollination.

‘When choosing, research nursery lists to ensure you have the right flowering group trees together,’ adds Clapp. ‘The flowers of a crab apple nearby could be another option; they will pollinate most apples and the trees are quite small so good for compact spaces.’

It’s important to know how to plant apple trees correctly to get the best result, as well as how to prune an apple tree at the right time.

Once established, apples are fairly low maintenance; sprinkle a general fertiliser around the base in spring, prune yearly, and you will have fruit in two to four years.

You can grow apples in hardiness zones 3-9, if you choose a suitable variety.

2. Fig tree

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Eating home-grown figs feels like such a luxury, and the fruits make an indulgent addition to salads, tarts and desserts.

Figs need plenty of sun in order for the fruits to ripen, so consider growing a tree against a south-facing wall.  

‘Growing it against a wall also helps to restrict the roots, which stresses the tree, and increases the fruit yield,’ says Alison Hilton, plants and trees expert at The Yard and Garden . 

‘Ficus 'Brown Turkey' is a wonderful hardy fig variety that produces large tasty fruits that ripen into a purple brown color. It’s very easy to grow in most regions.’

Fig trees can be grown in zones 5-9, and are suitable for planting in containers. They should start to fruit within two to three years. 

‘Water them well through summer and feed as the fruits develop,’ adds Clapp.

3. Lemon tree

(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)

One of the best trees to grow in pots, lemon trees add an exotic air to a patio and can double up as one of the best winter house plants.  

‘If you live in a colder climate and have a sheltered area like a porch, lemon trees will bring a taste of the tropics to your landscaping,' says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. 

'The growth of these trees is usually stunted by colder weather enough that they can live in the pot for an extended period of time.'

You can even learn how to grow lemon from seed, to fill a sunroom or conservatory with these joyful trees.

The 'Meyer' variety is a particularly popular lemon tree as it flowers throughout the year, but this is best bought as a grafted tree.

Lemon trees require a lot of nutrients in order to thrive, so invest in a good citrus feed, and when you plant them be sure to introduce some grit or sharp sand to improve drainage. It’s best to let them dry out between waterings.

You also need to make sure you know how to prune lemon trees to increase fruit production.

While lemons are best grown in zones 9-11, you can grow a potted tree in cooler areas as long as you bring them into a porch or sunroom once the nights get chilly.

4. Plum tree

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Plum trees are easy to grow and generous yielders. Cooking varieties make the most exquisite desserts and jams, while eating plums are a widely loved sweet fruit. 

The trees don’t take up too much space – especially if grown on dwarf rootstock – meaning they can work in most backyards.

‘Dwarf rootstock means the plum variety you've picked, say the popular 'Victoria' plum, is grafted onto a much smaller tree root to control its eventual size,’ says Harris.

‘Buying dwarf rootstock doesn’t necessarily mean less fruit, it means less height and spread. With good care, you can grow an abundance of fruit on dwarf rootstock.’

Many plum trees are not self-fertile, requiring a partner tree, but some varieties can be planted on their own, including 'Victoria' and 'Majorie’s Seedling'. The latter is one of the best options for both eating and cooking, making it a truly versatile fruit.

Plum trees do require a warm, sheltered location and thrive in soils that retain moisture. Learn how to plant a plum tree correctly to give it the best chance of success.

Depending on the variety, you can grow plums in zones 3-9.

5. Pear tree

(Image credit: Getty Images)

With stunning blossom in the spring and rich colors in the fall, pears are certainly one of the most attractive fruit trees to grow. 

There is much variety to their flavor, from mellow and sweet to pleasantly sour and subtly spiced. While they can be enjoyed uncooked, they make sensational tarts, and simply poached pears make for the most luxurious dessert.

‘The fruits are categorised as either European, sweet and juicy, or Asian, nashi, which are firm but more bland,’ says Clapp.

‘Rootstocks are grafted onto quince roots; the most common is Quince A for espaliered and bush trees and Quince C for cordons and containers.’

Most pears are not self-fertile, requiring a partner tree – although notable exceptions to this are the dessert pears ‘Concorde’ and ‘Conference’.

‘Pears like rich, moist, well-drained soils and protection from winds, watering well in dry spells and feeding in spring,' adds Clapp. Also know how to prune pear trees to maximize fruit production.

'Harvest the fruit just before it is fully ripened. They will feel firm but look swollen with a slight change of colour. Pears ripen after picking and are ready to eat when they give into a little pressure at the stem end.’

Grow pears in zones 3-8. Trees will take five to seven years to fully crop.

6. Mulberry tree

(Image credit: YONCA60/Getty Images)

Mulberries are rarely sold fresh in grocery stores, so they’re ideal for growing if you want to try something different.

Just the right amount of sweet and sour, mulberries taste a little similar to blackberries, but still have their own distinct flavor.

With its characteristic crooked branches, the mulberry is also an ancient fruit tree surrounded by myth and legend, and makes an attractive tree in the garden.  

There are varieties available with red, black and white berries, although only the red and black berries are grown for eating.

‘Mulberries are fast-growing fruit trees, but they take a long time to produce fruit,’ says Tammy Sons, owner of Tennessee Nursery . They can reach up to 80ft, which makes them an ideal feature in the garden, but they may not fruit for 7-10 years. 

However, it is possible to grow mulberry trees in a large pot when young, which is reported to speed up their cropping time to just 5 years.

They can grow in zones 4-9 and are widely tolerant of different soil types and part-shade. You can also train a mulberry tree as an espalier. 

The berries are prone to staining, however, so don’t position a tree over a walkway.

7. Cherry tree

(Image credit: Getty Images / Jacky Parker)

Cherry trees are some of the most beautiful fruit trees you can grow, with their enchanting blossom in the spring time. They are also striking trees with red berries in the summer, and one of the best trees for autumn color.

‘Cherry trees are by far one of the lowest maintenance and easiest to grow fruit trees,’ says Sons.

They are often grown on dwarf root stock, which makes them ideal for small yards and growing in pots.

There are several lovely varieties of cherry tree you can grow, with options for zones 3-9. ‘Sweetheat’ is a particularly delicious late-season variety and it self-fertile, so does not require a partner tree.

Cherries do need good, fertile soil and regular watering until they are established, at which point they are low maintenance. While sweet eating cherries need a good sunny spot, the sour (acid) cooking varieties can be planted in a shadier location.

Make sure you know how to plant cherry trees properly to ensure a successful crop, and also learn how to prune a cherry tree to ensure the ideal balance of old and new wood, which is essential to a good harvest.

Sweet cherries can be grown in zones 5-7 while sour varieties will thrive in zones 4-6.

8.

Apricot tree

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Delicious apricots are highly desirable fruits to grow, but they are less hardy than many other fruit trees so require the right conditions in order to thrive.

‘Apricots prefer slightly alkaline soil, but they are self-fertile, so won’t require a partner tree,’ says Clapp. ‘They do well left unpruned, but can be trained as a fan shape.’

In general it’s inadvisable to heavily prune apricot trees, as it can cause them irreparable damage.

Apricots are somewhat high maintenance – as they flower early in the season, there are often not enough pollinating insects around to help them pollinate naturally, meaning you’ll have to give them a helping hand to ensure a bumper crop. 

Over the course of several days, you should pollinate the flowers using a soft brush, and lightly spray the tree with water to ensure it sticks.

The blossom is also sensitive to frost damage, so in areas where this might be an issue you should protect the trees overnight with horticultural fleece. You can grow them in zones 4-9.

If you can put in the work, however, you will be rewarded with one of the sweetest fruits that will taste unlike anything you can buy at the grocery store.

In terms of variety, 'Moorpark' is one of the most widely grown, but 'Tomcot' is a particularly large, juicy fruit. ‘Look for names that end in ‘cot’ as they produce large fruit,’ says Clapp.

9. Quince tree

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Though not common fruit trees, quinces have a long history and were eaten by the ancient Greeks and Romans. 

These days, they are most often grown for their ornamental value as they have an attractive shape and most beautiful pink blossom – though don’t confuse them with the ornamental Japanese quince.

However, though the pear-shaped fruits are rather sour eaten raw, when cooked they are transformed. ‘Quinces make the most delicious jams and jellies,’ says Clapp. They also have a glorious fragrance, and can be used to perfume a room.

Grown in a sunny spot, they are also easy to grow and not prone to many issues. ‘Quinces just need need warmth and moisture to thrive,’ adds Clapp.

You will need to water the trees in hot summers, and prune once a year in the winter. You should also do an annual feed and mulch in the spring. All varieties are self-fertile.

While quinces are fairly hardy, suited to zones 4-9, in very cold areas you might need to protect the trees from the frost with horticultural fleece.

Quince trees are available on different sized rootstock, but there are some dwarf varieties ideal for smaller gardens. You should have fruit within 5 years.

10. Peach tree

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘If you are seeking a more low-maintenance fruit tree, look to peaches, which require less care than many fruits,’ says Smith.

Alternatively you could consider growing nectarines, which are a smooth variety of peach.

One of the main selling points of peaches is that they are quick to crop, often producing some fruit after just one year. When fully grown, they can produce a bounty of fruit – more than enough for the whole family to enjoy.

Peaches aren’t too fussy about soil type as long as they have good drainage and are positioned in a sunny spot. 

While they have beautiful pink blossom, peaches do flower early in the season, so if there is still frost in your area, the fruit yield will likely be affected.

The trees can be planted any time of year, though bare-root specimens will only be available in the colder months.

While peach trees are easy to look after, it’s important to keep them well watered in the warmer months, and they will benefit from regular feeding during the growing season.

Peaches thrive in zones 4-9 and they grow well in containers, which will keep the trees to a nice manageable size.

Which fruit tree is best?

'The best fruit tree will of course be the one you enjoy the fruit from most,’ says Smith. 

You should also consider how much fruit you are likely to get, in order to make your endeavors worthwhile.  

‘Popular fruit trees include the 'Bing' cherry, which can provide as much as 50-100 pounds of cherries per year, and then closely followed by the red 'Jonathan' apple. 

'Be sure to check if they are self-pollinating or not. If not, you will need to plant at least two trees or varieties to bear fruit.'

What is the easiest fruit tree to grow?

The easiest fruit tree to grow for beginners is usually an apple tree, which has the benefit of being such a popular, versatile fruit.

'If you are seeking a more low-maintenance fruit tree, look to the plum or peach trees, which require less care than other fruit trees,' adds Smith.

Peach trees are also quick to crop, often producing fruit after just one year, so they are a good choice for impatient gardeners.

What's the best time to plant fruit trees?

The best time to plant fruit trees depends on whether you have bought less expensive bare-root trees, or container-grown plants. 

Bare-root trees are only available in the colder months so must be planted then. Make sure you learn how to plant bare-root trees properly to help them to thrive.

‘Container grown plants can be planted any time of the year, but it is best done in winter,’ adds Clapp.

As editor of Period Living, Britain's best-selling period homes magazine, Melanie loves the charm of older properties. I live in a rural village just outside the Cotswolds in England, so am lucky to be surrounded by beautiful homes and countryside, where I enjoy exploring. Having worked in the industry for almost two decades, Melanie is interested in all aspects of homes and gardens. Her previous roles include working on Real Homes and Homebuilding & Renovating, and she has also contributed to Gardening Etc. She has an English degree and has also studied interior design. Melanie frequently writes for Homes & Gardens about property restoration and gardening.

What Are The Best Fruit Trees To Plant

Top 10 Backyard Fruit Trees: What Are The Best Fruit Trees To Plant

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Home › Ornamental Gardens › Trees › General Tree Care

General Tree Care

By: Teo Spengler

Image by redstallion

The best fruit trees to plant in your home orchard depend on the fruit you love to eat. But when you are contemplating growing fruit trees, there are a few other important things to consider. It is essential to take your hardiness zone into account as well as the exposure you can offer the tree. Most fruit trees require a full sun location and well-draining soil, but a few will accept more shade and will shrug off poor soil.

The most popular garden fruit trees are typically the fastest growing, lowest maintenance choices. That’s why a list of the top 10 backyard fruit trees is a great place to begin your search.

  1. Peach trees
    If you live in an area with relatively mild winters, peaches are good garden fruit trees. Fast growing and easy maintenance in USDA zones 6 through 8, peach trees can fruit in as little as three years. Most require full sun as well as another peach tree with similar bloom time for cross fertilization.
  2. Nectarine trees
    Nectarines are peach look-alikes except for their smooth peel. They have the same cultural requirements. They are more popular with those who can’t stand the fuzzy peach skin.
  3. Apple trees
    Only those with some winter chill need consider most apple trees, but there are a few varieties that have low chill requirements. These all-American favorites thrive in USDA zones 3 through 8 and require a compatible species for cross-pollination. Full sun and well-draining soil a must.
  4. Citrus trees
    Those living in warm area (think USDA zones 8-10) should consider planting citrus trees, since these are among the fastest producing fruit trees. Lemon trees, orange trees, tangerine trees – all develop rapidly in an appropriate climate and produce fruit the second year. The other option is to grow citrus as container trees and bring them indoors in cold weather. No need to get more than one since they are self-pollinating.
  5. Mandarin trees
    Yes, mandarin trees are citrus trees, but they get their own category since they are far easier than any other citrus tree to grow. That makes them a great first citrus tree to get you started. The tree thrives outside in USDA zones 8 through 10 but can be grown as potted plants as well and carted indoors in winter. 
  6. Cherry trees
    Who doesn’t love picking red, ripe cherries from garden fruit trees? Cherry trees are incredibly popular, but not all of them produce fruit quickly. Count on four years from planting to first harvest for sweet cherries, three for sour cherries. They thrive in USDA zones 5 through 7 and require lots of sunshine to produce.
  7. Fig trees
    These sun-loving trees grow fast and produce fruit quickly, if, that is, they are kept in a warm climate. They thrive in the ground in USDA zones 8 through 11 but can be grown in a container in cooler regions. Figs are self-fertile so only one is needed.
  8. Pear trees
    Just like apple trees, there are many pear tree varieties to choose from. Some produce rapidly, others less so. You can find pear trees that thrive in almost any climate ranging across USDA zones 3 through 10. Give them direct sun and sandy soil.
  9. Plum trees
    When it comes to backyard fruit trees, plum trees may require the least maintenance. They adapt to a variety of growing conditions and grow into compact plants with little work on the gardener’s part, producing juicy stone fruit. Most plum trees are not self-pollinating, so plant at least two plums to bear fruit. You can find plum varieties that thrive in USDA zones as low as 3 and as high as 10.
  10. Mulberry trees
    The berries are small but the trees are very large, great for big backyards. These trees grow fast and can get to 30 feet (10 m.) tall, producing a lot of berries that work well for jams. They like direct sun but can take some shade in USDA zones 5 through 9.

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How to plant fruit trees on your site?

The optimal time for planting seedlings in central Russia: in spring - from the moment the soil freezes to the beginning of bud break. Usually from April 1-10 to May 1.

Autumn We recommend planting from 1 to 20 October. If you haven't planted seedlings until October 20, then they must be dug in for the winter and planted on permanent place next spring, as soon as the soil thaws. But at the same time try preparing the planting holes in the fall. nine0003

Planting site

Fruit trees should not be placed in low places with excessive soil moisture. Prolonged and frequent waterlogging of the soil in the zone roots cause plant death. When planting trees in the garden it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater in the area. If ground water is at a distance of 1 m from ground level, it is necessary refrain from planting all fruit trees.

Cherry and apricot and cherry are demanding on heat, but put up with a lack of moisture, they are placed on the highest and well-heated part of the site.

Apples and pears also grow best in higher ground.

Plums more moisture-loving, and if there is a slope, it is better to place them in its lower parts, because on poor and dry soils they grow and bear fruit bad.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Pruning seedlings (except seedlings in a container). For better survival of seedlings, before planting, it is necessary to trim the above-ground part the fact is that when digging seedlings from the nursery, part of the roots is necessarily damaged and remains in the soil, but the aerial part is completely preserved. As a result, the balance between the root system and aboveground part. This has a negative effect on growth tree, especially in the first year. To restore the disturbed balance, cutting seedlings. Annual seedlings that represent a single stem - cut to approximately 1/3 of the length. At two-year-old seedlings are cut to 1/3 not only the top of the trunk, but everything side branches are also cut no less than 1/3 of their length. nine0003

Before planting (except for seedlings in containers) loosen the roots of seedlings from the packing bag, shake out sawdust (peat) and soak on
3-6 hours in a solution of the root formation stimulator "Kornevin", or in a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer 10g per 10l of water.

Planting

The following tree planting schemes are recommended for personal plots:

apple, pear, plum trees 3.5-4 x 2.5-3m;
apricot and cherry.3.5-4 x 3-4m; nine0031 cherries 2-2.5 x 1.5-2m.

For plantings dig holes with a diameter of 100-150cm for apple, pear, plum, apricot and 60-80cm for cherries. The depth of the pits is determined by the thickness fertile soil layer, that is, do not dig deeper than the fertile layer, especially if there is clay (on thin soils with a close occurrence clay horizon in most cases it will be 30-35cm). No way case without going deep into the clay.

When digging a hole, it is recommended Divide the excavated soil into two parts. The first is the top layer of soil, it more fertile, and the second - lower, less fertile. So that when landing on the bottom of the pit, pour out more fertile (upper) soil, from above - less fertile (lower). nine0003

A stake is driven into the center of the pit. Earth from pits are mixed with fertilizers (250-500g superphosphate, 500g ash, 500g lime - fluff, or dolomite flour. 2-3 buckets of humus) and showered to the bottom of the mound. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied to planting pits. On the top of the mound is established by a seedling, the roots of which are carefully straighten in all directions along the slopes of the mound and fall asleep well crushed, fertilized earth until the planting pit is completely filled. By as the backfill, the tree is slightly shaken to fill the voids between roots, and then the soil is compacted with a foot. nine0003

For seedlings in containers:

The seedling is removed from container carefully tear a lump and straighten to the sides twisted roots. No need to be afraid if 5-10% of the roots along the perimeter of the coma break off. On the contrary, it contributes to a better survival of the plant. AT further lump is placed in the hole, and the remaining empty space fall asleep with waterlogged earth, so that good contact is obtained between lump and earth.

Around planted plants make a hole for watering and pour a few buckets water. Water contributes to the sedimentation of the soil, so it should be watered even in wet weather. It is necessary that the plant is practically in the mud, then compact the soil well around the plant. root collar (the place of transition of the trunk to the root) after the subsidence of the soil should be flush with the soil surface. nine0003

Planting trees without planting holes

On areas with a thin fertile layer, as well as in places with high groundwater, it is recommended not to dig holes when planting. At At the same time, a stake is driven in at the landing site, around which, within a radius of up to 1 m scatter fertilizers (250 - 500g of superphosphate, 500g of ash, 500g of lime - fluffs, or dolomites, 2-3 buckets of humus) and mix them well by digging the soil. Then, near the stake, a mound of fertilized soil. The roots of the seedling are set on a mound, distributed in all sides and fall asleep first with fertilized earth, and then with ordinary earth. Pour more earth around the seedling and make an irrigation hole out of it. so as not to expose the root system, after which they are watered. When the water is absorbed, the hole is destroyed, and from above they are spudded with earth. nine0003

Care after planting

Planted the tree is tied to a stake. Care must be taken that it does not rub against the stake or the garter rope has not grown into it. Labels are also needed remove as they attract bipedal pests…

After planting requires repeated watering, and it is better to water rarely, but plentifully. So that the water does not spread, with each next watering they do hole. After watering, the soil is mulched with manure, peat or compost, placing them in a layer of about 10 cm. If a wild growth, it must be removed, if this is not done, it can overtake seedling growth and will inhibit its development. Practice often shows that after a strong freezing of the above-ground part, wild shoots grow the most active. nine0003

Very often literally within a few days after the first leaves bloom on the seedling, they begin to gnaw on all kinds of pests: weevils, aphids, caterpillars. AT mid-August, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30g per 1m2), so that the tops of the shoots ripen well and the trees are better overwintered. In October, to protect the trunk and skeletal branches of the young trees from sunburn and wind drying, they are wrapped in any material other than polyethylene film. Need to take care of protection from mice and rabbits. These are the enemies of the garden. They will harm until the plants become fully grown at 12-15 years of age. nine0003

Remember that young fruit plants for the first 3-4 years are gaining strength and winter hardiness. Still, it's better if you cover them more carefully.

A few words should be said about planting fruit trees on a clone (dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock).

Such plants are the obvious progress of science, they come into fruition earlier than ordinary plants, bear fruit more abundantly, the fruits are larger and tasty. But along with the advantages, they also have disadvantages. Plants on such a stock requires more fertile soils and regular watering. Be sure to take care of the support, otherwise the plant may warp, or even fall off. In some cases, clonal rootstocks less winter-hardy than ordinary seedlings and this requires additional mulching of the trunk circle. It should also be canceled that dwarf plants require smaller planting holes than plants on seedling rootstocks, the norms of mineral fertilizers are also decrease significantly, but the amount of organic should be increased. It is also necessary to make adjustments to the plant density on your plot. For example, columnar apple trees on a dwarf rootstock can planted at a distance of 0.4 meters. nine0003

Fruit trees - how to plant? How to choose a place? How to harden landings?

26. 10.2017

I. Choosing a place for a garden and placing trees in the garden

In the conditions of Moscow and adjacent regions, it is better to plant gardens on gentle (1 - 5 °) slopes of the southern, southeastern, southwestern exposure (direction), as the most favorable location in terms of heat and light.

The soil of the garden should be, most importantly, deeply drained, i.e. easily permeable to air, water and deep root growth. An indicator of this is the strong, hundred-year-old oak, Norway maple, elm, ash, pine, wild pear and apple trees that grow well in the vicinity of the garden, all of which are distinguished by a root system deeply penetrating the soil. nine0003

Fruit trees should be placed in the garden so that they are well lit, especially in the morning, because. The highest intensity of photosynthesis occurs from 5 to 10 hours. Rows of trees should have a direction across the slope, and on a flat area it is better in the north-south direction, but can be planted with wide row spacing and in any direction in accordance with the configuration of the site.

Seedlings of vigorous species (pears, apple trees, apricots, cherries, sweet-fruited mountain ash, etc.) on vigorous (seedling) rootstocks are usually planted according to the scheme of 4x6 meters, i.e. in a row after 4 meters, and between rows after 6 meters; medium-sized species (plums, plums, sea buckthorn, viburnum, etc.) according to the 3x5 scheme, and low-growing species (cherries, thorns, felt cherries, etc.) according to the 2x5 meters scheme. nine0003

We categorically do not recommend narrowing the row spacing (less than 5 - 6 meters), because. this worsens the illumination of the trees during their fruiting period, which leads to a decrease in yield, and also makes it very difficult to care for the trees. As recommended by Professor Schitt P.G. it is better to plant trees denser in a row, but you can not narrow the aisles!

In places with harsh natural and climatic conditions (cold, low, with poor soil, etc.), we advise you to initially plant fruit trees in a row twice as often as is customary, i. e. vigorous trees after 2 meters, medium-sized trees after 1.5, and weak trees after 1 meter. nine0003

After 5 - 10 years, weak trees mostly die (due to freezing, undergrowth, diseases, etc.), as a rule, up to 30 - 50% of the number originally planted, and the most hardy trees will survive and will please gardeners for a long time with good harvests. Here gardeners use Charles Darwin's basic biological law of natural selection.

Of course, that dense plantings can only be afforded by gardeners who have mastered well pruning of fruit trees , and you can learn how to do this at practical classes that are held annually at the Yuzhny Garden Plant Center from April to September, every Saturday. Schedules and topics of classes can be found in the section Seminars.

We do not recommend getting carried away with fashionable seedlings on low-growing dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, as well as columnar apple trees, as they are not sufficiently adapted to our harsh natural conditions. It is better to grow such seedlings south of the Central region of Russia, and in our region they can be planted only in the most favorable places of growth and they need to be provided with especially good care (watering, pruning, pest, disease, weed control, top dressing, etc.), and without As a result, they will be significantly less winter-hardy and less productive than ordinary vigorous seedlings. Usually seedlings on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks are planted according to the scheme of 2x5 meters. nine0003

II. Planting seedlings in flower beds

Everyone knows that seedlings should be planted in planting pits. In favorable places of growth, this should be done, only we recommend digging holes not 0. 7x1 meter in size, and even less 1x1 meter, as recommended, but only 0.5 meters deep, but 2 - 3 meters wide. There is no need to dig deeper holes, since the bulk of the horizontal (tree-feeding) roots are located near our fruit trees in a soil layer from 10 to 40 - 50 cm. nine0003

We consider it absolutely useless, as they say in books, to put sheets of slate, iron on the bottom of the sedimentary pit, so that the roots do not grow deep if groundwater is close.

In low places, with a close groundwater level, with infertile soil, with severe frosty winters, we recommend planting seedlings of fruit trees only in flower beds, and in more favorable places it is also better to plant them in flower beds.

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Flower bed size: 2 - 3 meters in diameter and 0.5 - 1 meter high (per cone), the worse the growing conditions, the larger the size of the flower bed should be. Gardeners should not be embarrassed by the high height of the flower bed, because. in a year or two it will settle down and will be two times lower.

Flower beds are poured directly on the soil surface (without preliminary digging of planting pits) from a mixture of rotted (black, with a large number of earthworms) manure or compost, peat and highly fertile soil (it can be taken from the aisles of the garden) in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 ( in equal amounts). nine0003

If the soil of the garden is heavy clay, then first on the soil (under the flower bed) it is necessary to pour coarse-grained river sand with gravel or expanded clay with a layer of 5-10 cm to improve drainage, and if the soil is light, sandy, then the same layer of peat, preferably with clay, to keep water from seeping through quickly.

One glass of superphosphate, half a glass of potassium sulfate and 1-2 liters of wood ash should be evenly added to the lower half of the flower bed (depending on the acidity of the soil and the size of the flower bed). nine0003

It is better to prepare flowerbeds in the fall (the sooner the better), and it is better to plant seedlings on them as early as possible in the spring (as with oats - “soak in the mud and you will be a prince”).

Autumn planting on flower beds is more risky , and if necessary, it is necessary to mulch the flower beds well (with a layer of 5-10 cm) with rotted manure or compost so that the roots do not freeze, and tie the seedling with spruce branches and paper so that it does not freeze.

nine0092 When planting in a flower bed, tying seedlings to a stake is obligatory so that it sways less from the wind and takes root faster.

After planting, a watering hole is made along the periphery of the crown of the seedling (usually 1 meter in diameter) from earthen sides 15–20 cm wide and 15–20 cm high, so that they do not erode during heavy watering.

On the day of planting or the next day, seedlings are abundantly (50 - 100 liters of pure water without fertilizers) spilled to the bottom of the flower bed and the flower bed is mulched (filled with a layer of 5 - 10 cm) with a mixture of rotted manure or compost, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 (in equal amounts), but so that the mulch does not touch the trunk to avoid undercooking the bark.

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