Front porch gates
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Porch Gate Fence - Etsy.
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Walks in Moscow: Kolomenskoye
Kolomenskoye is a capital estate, beloved not only by Muscovites.
Guests from all over the world willingly come to the former royal residence, and now a museum-reserve, to feel the charm of Russian antiquity. However, although Kolomenskoye literally “breathes” with history, it lives absolutely in step with the times.
Start
Spassky Gate, Church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God
These places have been inhabited since the Stone Age. According to one of the legends, the village of Kolomenskoye on the high bank of the Moskva River was founded by the inhabitants of the city of Kolomna, who fled from Batu Khan. Over time, it became the grand-ducal, and then the royal patrimony. From the Kolomenskaya metro station to the Spassky Gates, from where it is best to start sightseeing, it is only a 10-minute walk. Moreover, the second half of this path is through a well-groomed park with old maples, lindens, mowed lawns and luxurious flower beds. The historical center of the estate - the Sovereign's Court - was once surrounded by a wall with two gates: Front and Spassky.
Now we enter the estate as if “from the back porch” and immediately find ourselves on the Kormovoi and Khlebny yard. The buildings that once “inhabited” the courtyards have not been preserved (only the foundation remains), just as the wooden palace of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich has not been preserved. However, we will say more about the palace. The stone church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God was once connected to it by a covered passage. Pay attention to her. This is an elegant white temple with blue onions in gold stars, built in the middle of the 17th century. Today it is open to believers.
Museum
Front gate, Fryazhsky cellar
Under Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, Kolomenskoye flourished. It was his favorite front country residence, where he came for 30 years in a row and where he not only rested and practiced falconry, but also received foreign guests, met with the patriarch and the boyars. The front gate, built in 1673, was the main entrance to the estate from the Moskva River.
Above the arches of the gate was a mechanism that set in motion large mechanical lions - a kind of royal "cunning idea". The lions that greeted the guests at the entrance to the Sovereign's Court roared and rolled their eyes terribly, which amazed the guests. Lviv, unfortunately, is no longer there, but the Order and Colonel's chambers adjacent to the Front Gate, as well as the Fryazhsky cellar, where foreign wines were once kept, including Italian (as they said then, Fryazhsky). The four-tier ensemble of the Front Gate now houses the Milestones in the History of Kolomenskoye exposition. Entrance to the territory of the museum-reserve is free, tickets are purchased only for exhibitions and expositions. It is curious that the guides, as well as museum curators, are dressed in old Russian costumes, which, of course, adds a special historical flavor to everything that happens.
Temple
Church of the Ascension of the Lord
Through the arch of the Front Gate we come to a magnificent white temple - the Church of the Ascension of the Lord.
This unique monument of Russian architecture - the first Russian temple with a hipped dome - is familiar to any schoolchild from history textbooks. The first mention of it refers to 1532. According to legend, the temple was erected by Vasily III in honor of the birth of the heir, the future Ivan the Terrible. There is also an assumption that it was built by the Italian architect Petrok Maly. At one time, the 62-meter building of the church was the highest in Rus'. At 19In 1994, the church received the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Interestingly, in the basement of the temple in 1917, the miraculous icon of the Mother of God "Reigning" was found. It was like this: Evdokia Andrianova, a resident of the Perervinskaya Sloboda, had a dream that supposedly in the temple there was “a black icon that needs to be made red, and that everyone would pray to her.” She informed the rector of the temple about this, and after a long search, a large black icon was found “among the junk” in the church basement.
This miraculous event, as well as the history of the creation and restoration of the temple, is told by the exposition located in the basement tier of the temple (the icon itself is now in the temple of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God).
History
Oaks and House of Peter I
Not far from the Front Gate, unique oaks grow, which still remember Alexei Mikhailovich. These are almost the oldest trees in the capital, they are from 400 to 600 years old. Their thick sides are polished with numerous touches - hardly anyone can resist being photographed under the canopy of the "patriarchs". If we walk along the alley a couple more steps, we will see a small wooden house. It was built in 1702 on the island of St. Mark at the mouth of the Northern Dvina. Peter I lived in it for two and a half months, when he oversaw the construction of the Novodvinsk fortress. The house was moved to Kolomenskoye at 1934 year. Now it is open to visitors, who, for sure, will be surprised by how unpretentious and modest the Russian emperor was in everyday life.
I must say that in his youth in Kolomenskoye, Peter arranged his "funny" fights. And later - celebrated victories. After the Azov campaign in 1696, it was here that he gathered an army before solemnly entering Moscow. In December 1709, the Swedes captured near Poltava were brought here, “along with cannons and banners,” and on December 21, the victorious tsar entered the capital in triumph. By the way, a special exhibition “General Battle...” is dedicated to the 300th anniversary of the Battle of Poltava, presenting portraits of Peter and his contemporaries, various interesting documents and ancient weapons (the exhibition is held in the Sytny Dvor).
Legends
Golosov ravine, Dyakovo village
There are not only architectural monuments in Kolomenskoye. For example, Golosov ravine is a unique natural relic that has preserved its relief since ancient times. Numerous stairs lead to it, including the one not far from Peter's house. A stream flows along the bottom of the ravine, springs with clear water come out here, for which local residents specially come here.
If you go down to the Golosov ravine, be sure to reach two amazing stones - witnesses of the Ice Age. One of them, dotted with incomprehensible inscriptions - "The Maiden's Stone" - looks like a frozen bubbling stone mass. Another - "Goose" - very much resembles a horse's head (this is another name for the stone). There are many legends associated with the healing power of these ancient "idols"... From the ravine you can climb to the former village of Dyakovo and admire the Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist (XVI century), which experts consider to be the predecessor of St. Basil's Cathedral - both in architecture and in interior decoration. Now it is a functioning temple.
Eat
Shopping street
A long walk, an abundance of impressions, fresh air ... Surely you are tired and hungry. There are no problems with a "snack" in Kolomenskoye. A whole street with charming flower beds in a rustic spirit is set aside for "refectories". To get there, we get out of the ravine, return to the Church of the Ascension and walk down the paved path, while admiring the opened panorama of the Moscow River and imagining that once there were fields and meadows instead of skyscrapers towering on the other bank.
5 minutes walk, and in front of us is a series of wooden houses with open verandas. Each hut has its own specialization. There are shish kebabs, and dumplings, and tea and coffee, and beer and water, and, of course, pancakes. Prices are affordable. By the way, on the territory of the museum itself you can also buy gingerbread, Suzdal mead and wonderful honey. Kolomenskoye even has its own apiary. And in general, there is a large "ethnographic farm" here: a forge, a stable, a poultry yard, a water mill. The museum is actively introducing the idea of interactive communication with visitors who have every opportunity to “immerse themselves” in the historical past, including participating in rituals, ceremonies and numerous public holidays. The next such events are scheduled for 29August: at 15.00, the street folklore festival "Spasovki" will begin here, as well as on the City Day on September 5-6.
Palace
Palace of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich
"The eighth wonder of the world", "Russian fairy tale" - this was the name of the wooden palace built for Alexei Mikhailovich.
Golden and colorful, with numerous towers, it struck the imagination of contemporaries. Alas, after the death of the tsar, Kolomenskoye gradually lost its significance. Peter I visited here only occasionally, however, he ordered to bring a stone foundation under the mansions. And yet wood is a short-lived material. Catherine II wanted to repair the building, but the palace had to be dismantled due to dilapidation. Fortunately, the Empress ordered to draw up drawings - in order to be sure to restore it. It just so happened that it was possible to recreate the palace with absolute accuracy only now. True, not in its historical place - construction on the Sovereign's Court is simply impossible, for many years it has been "overgrown" with luxurious trees, which in themselves are natural monuments. You can already admire the new palace today - it is located on the territory of the former village of Dyakovo, near the Kashirskaya metro station. Its domes are already visible from Peter's house.
The mansions were created using advanced technologies - wooden on the outside, inside they are supported by a frame made of modern materials. Finishing work is now starting in the building, including painting walls and ceilings, woodcarving. According to the plan, it will open its doors by the City Day in 2010. Permanent exhibitions will open in the palace, concerts and theatrical performances will be held here. Today, excursions are conducted around the vast territory around the palace - there are many Tsar's choirs here, recreated in an absolutely accurate historical form.
Izmailovo Estate - Architectural Style — LiveJournal
Izmailovo Estate is the famous country residence of the Russian tsars Alexei Mikhailovich and his son, Peter the Great. At the end of the 17th century, Izmailovo was the most important cultural center of the country. The Romanovs have been hosting here since 1654. Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich erected a majestic ensemble of the Sovereign's Court in Izmailovo, equipped an exemplary patrimonial economy and usually spent summers only here.
In Izmailovo, a Russian theater, a botanical garden, an apothecary's garden were born, a linen manufactory, a glass-blowing factory, etc. were organized. Under Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, agronomic experiments were even carried out on the Izmailovo fields: they tried to arrange a mulberry garden in order to get silk. However, the Moscow climate is not very suitable for heat-loving trees, but flax, which was called "northern silk", grew well here. At the same time, the Serebryanka River, by decree of the tsar, was blocked by dams - a pond was formed, called Silver-Grape. Silver - from the name of the river, Grape - from the plantings of various southern fruit trees and vineyards, which were then massively grown here. As a result, the pond was surrounded by the man-made Izmailovsky Island, on which the royal estate was located.
Today Serebryano-Vinogradny Pond is one of the oldest ponds in Moscow. And on the island in the middle of this pond there is a historical and architectural ensemble of the 17th-19th centuries, part of the united museum of the Kolomenskoye - Izmailovo - Lyublino reserve.
I suggest looking from a small footbridge across the pond. This is a side, not the main entrance to the estate - I just always get here that way (closer to get from home))
From this inconspicuous bridge, there are excellent, well, simply fabulous views of the Izmailovsky Kremlin. "Kremlin" here is a stretch, of course - it was built in 1998–2007 with stylization of Russian architecture of the 17th century. They scold Luzhkov's gingerbread popular remake, but it is from afar that it is not particularly striking and is perceived rather as a fantasy on the theme of the lost Izmailovsky Palace of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.
Serebryano-Vinogradny Pond in the 17th century was one of several ponds in the whole system created under Alexei Mikhailovich. Of these, besides this, the Lebedyansky pond in the Izmailovsky forest park has survived, for example. And this system of ponds played an important role in the history of the Russian fleet - we can say that it was on these waters that it was born.
In the 17th century, a boat was ordered from England for Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich to sail on these ponds (ie, to entertain the tsar and his entourage). In May 1688 it was accidentally discovered by 16-year-old Tsarevich Peter, the son of Alexei Mikhailovich. The Dutch master Karsten Barndt, who lived nearby in the German Quarter, helped young Peter fix the boat, set up the mast, the sail, and soon the boat was launched. Peter quickly mastered the basics of boat control - it turned out that the boat can sail under the sails not only with the wind, but also against it. So our founder of the Russian fleet made his first experience in maritime business right here, on the Silver-Grape Pond. Later, this boat, called by Peter the “grandfather of the Russian fleet,” was transported to St. Petersburg, where it was first stored in the Peter and Paul Fortress in the Boat House. And today it can be seen in the Central Naval Museum (and in the Boat House of the Peter and Paul Fortress there is an exact copy of the boat, in full size).
The territory of the Izmailovo estate today is an open-air museum. The vast birch grove on the shore of the pond gives a special flavor. It was the house temple of the royal family: in order to get into it, it was not necessary to leave the royal palace, it was enough to go through the passage. Unfortunately, this temple and its bell tower were destroyed in the 20th century.
In addition to birch trees, weeping willows are planted in the park, as well as just single old trees. The estate, let me remind you, is located on the island - paths are laid along the water, you can go around the whole island in a circle, it is small Cathedral (1671–1679), Front and Rear entrance gates to the Sovereign's Court (1679–1682). Let's all see.
In the center of the manor is Cathedral of the Intercession of the Holy Mother of God . It was built in 1671-1679. Kostroma craftsmen on the site of the former wooden church. And the old Church of the Intercession was erected by Ivan Nikitich Romanov in memory of the victory over the enemies in the Time of Troubles.
During the Patriotic War of 1812 The Intercession Cathedral was looted by French soldiers, it needed repairs and was locked up for a long time. By decree of Emperor Nicholas I, in honor of the 25th anniversary of the victory in the war on Izmailovsky Island (which Nicholas I Romanov considered "his" land) and near the temple, close to its walls on the left and right, buildings of a military almshouse were built. They were intended for the residence of war veterans and officers who had served their full term in the army. It’s a necessary thing, of course – old soldiers were cared for here, fed and treated free of charge. But the barracks changed the appearance of the architectural monument. And they are unlikely to ever be demolished. Firstly, the author of the almshouse project is the famous architect Konstantin Ton (he also owns the completed projects of the Grand Kremlin Palace and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior). And secondly, these side extensions "hold" the cathedral, which was about to "float" and fall apart 200 years ago - a heavy building of the temple in 19century has already subsided unevenly on loose Izmailovo soils.
The only surviving porch is very ornate – in the old Russian style, with a large kokoshnik at the top and hanging weights in the aisles. Both other side porches were demolished when the buildings of the almshouse were added to the cathedral.
Craftsmen from Yaroslavl, Kostroma, the Trinity-Sergius Lavra and Moscow proper were invited to make the cathedral iconostasis, who were unable to cope with the huge order on their own. Thus, the local and deesis row belonged to the brushes of the Yaroslavl icon painters, the festive one - to the Lavra, the prophetic - to the Kostroma ones, while the Muscovites painted the upper row of icons. The walls and four white stone pillars were painted by the masters of the Kremlin Armory.
After the revolution, workers and employees of the weaving factory settled here in 1851. The buildings of the almshouse were converted into communal apartments. The archive of the NKVD was located in the cathedral itself, and at the same time, approximately in 1932, the iconostasis was removed, traces of which were then lost.
Part of the icons, having served for a long time as shelves in the archive (and later in the vegetable store), ended up in the museum. Andrei Rublev.
Now the cathedral has been restored and is functioning.
Outside the church is decorated with colorful tiles made by Stepan Polubes. Especially valuable is the outlandish pattern "peacock's eye" - the personal invention of the master!
The tiles depict various wild flowers - daisies, snapdragons, carnations. In my opinion, it’s just lovely❤
In front of the cathedral there is a small square where the already inactive Lion Fountain stands
The fountain with a cast-iron bowl was cast in 1859year in the workshops of the Izmailovo military almshouse at the expense of the disabled who lived in the almshouse, and the merchant I.Ya. Sorokin. Together with the fountain, the entrance gates to the territory of the island and the almshouse were cast (but I don’t have a photo of them yet, the gates were under restoration at that moment, now they have already been installed) the decision of which a military almshouse appeared).
And the muzzles of the lions on the fountain, according to legend, for sure repeat the face of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich😊
Also in the square in front of the cathedral there is a monument to Peter the Great (in connection with his first voyages in his life, on a boat on the local pond, which I mentioned above). Installed in 1998 to the 300th anniversary of the Russian fleet.
Exactly the same monument, one to one, is installed in Kaliningrad in front of the Main Headquarters of the Baltic Fleet (which I saw only a month ago). Only the pedestals and inscriptions differ.
Commandant's house of the military almshouse (1855-1859gg) next to the Pokrovsky Cathedral and the square. In the 1950s there was a kindergarten here, today the building is occupied by some private company
Now we are going to the territory of the estate itself. Entrance through Front Gate Sovereign's Courtyard (the so-called "White Tower")
These gates were the front gates - through them the Tsar with his family and his noble guests entered the Sovereign's Court.
The gate was built in 1682, about which there is a reminder on the top of the weather vane
View of the Front Gate from the courtyard of the estate
In the 17th century, the tsar's guards - archers - served in the galleries.
The yard of the estate after the construction of the buildings of the almshouse in the 19th century became an even quadrangle in shape. And once here in the middle of the courtyard stood the palace of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, but it was demolished back in 1765. To imagine how it looked, you can, for example, visit Kolomenskoye, where in 2009built a semblance of the palace of Alexei Mikhailovich. It is no coincidence that today, together with Izmailovo, Kolomenskoye is an administratively single museum complex.
Reconstruction of the palace of Alexei Mikhailovich in Kolomenskoye.
Well, in Izmailovo now the Sovereign's Court in the middle is empty - you can just take a walk along the buildings of the former almshouse, sit in silence on the benches.
In autumn it is deserted here even on weekends (unlike Kolomenskoye))
70s). Today, they are mainly occupied by the directorate of the Izmailovo Museum-Reserve, as well as various research institutes and federal state unitary enterprises.
Former carriage shed and northern corps of the Nikolaev almshouse (1830s)
since the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, except for the front gate, still rear gates of sovereign of the courtyard (““ Black Tower, also 1682). They were intended for household needs. In appearance, the front and rear gates are the same. In the 17th century archers sat at the top of both gates to guard the royal court.
In Soviet times, you can also go through the Back gate, and even climb the steep steps up (and everyone climbed)) Now it is closed - entrance and exit to the territory of the estate courtyard is possible only through the Front gate.
As I already mentioned, four buildings have been preserved since the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich: the Bridge Tower, the Pokrovsky Cathedral, the Front and Rear entrance gates to the Sovereign's Court.
Only Bridge Tower 9 remains to be seen from this list0106 . It is located near the Pokrovsky Cathedral, moreover, its construction was carried out simultaneously with the construction of this cathedral and lasted until 1679. It was built of large-sized red brick. The three-tier Bridge Tower served as the main entrance to the Izmailovo estate, being part of a stone (a rarity at that time) arched bridge across the Silver Pond. By the way, in those days it was possible to get to Izmailovsky Island only through that one bridge (and today there are as many as three of them). But that stone bridge of the 17th century, alas, has not survived to this day, but we were more fortunate with its travel tower - and it is a real beauty! Even some of her shabbiness cannot hide how elegant she is. And recently the Bridge Tower was thoroughly restored (I have not seen it yet, and my photos before this repair).
The beauty of the Bridge Tower is complemented by its significance - during the stay of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich in Izmailovo, meetings of the Boyar Duma were held on the second floor of this tower (which is why its second name is Dumskaya).
The composition of the Bridge Tower is typical for the architecture of the second half of the 17th century. and resembles some of the towers of the Moscow Kremlin. Two square quadrangles are crowned with a wide octagon with a tier for a bell tower and a low tent. The lower one is cut through by three wide arched passages. On the second tier were the bell-ringers' rooms. The premises of the archery guards in the first two floors of the Bridge Tower have survived to us - today various museum exhibitions and expositions are held there.
In the past, archery guards were guarding the Bridge Tower. At the top, the tower was crowned with a metal double-headed eagle, but today there is simply the date of its construction.
After 1917 the entire Izmailovsky Island was transferred to the jurisdiction of the Salyut aviation plant. And in the former royal estate, a working Gorodok was formed. Bauman - the name of a revolutionary and a fighter against the autocracy.
