Flowers to plant in november

10 Flowers to Plant in Fall

With proper planning, there is a plethora of beautiful fall-blooming perennial and annual flowers that you can grow from seed. However, you may prefer the convenience of buying plantings at a nursery on an as-needed basis. In the fall, your local garden center should have a selection of cool-weather-loving flowers ready to take home.

Some will tolerate frost and last into the snowy months, while others, like cosmos and marigolds, live fast and die young with the first frost of winter. Often you can find these frost-sensitive flowers at bargain prices since their season is essentially over, and in that case, buying them might be worth it for two additional months of beautiful blossoms. Here is a list of fall flowers that you can plant right now to keep your yard looking great.

Asters

Asters produce pretty daisy-like flowers in a range of colors and, depending on the species, are frost tolerant. In order to avoid diseases, don't plant annual asters in the same place year after year. Preferably plant in either full sun or partial shade in moist, well-drained soil.

Cabbage and Kale

While not actual flowers, ornamental cabbages and kales have been bred to look colorful and eye-catching. They are definitely attractive and can tolerate freezing temperatures, keeping up appearances into the snowy months. Their colors may not fill out until the plant has experienced a few frosts. Plant in a sunny location with moderately moist soil.

Calendula

A cheery, golden addition to the fall garden with medicinal qualities, calendula flowers grow up to 4 inches across and come in a variety of shades. Easy to grow, they help deter some garden pests and will tolerate light frosts. Although calendulas prefer full sun, they can tolerate partial shade.

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums (nicknamed "mums") are very easy to grow and come in a vast array of color and size. They can tolerate light frosts so they compliment the fall garden perfectly. Autumn varieties enjoy full to partial sun and moist soil.

Cosmos

Cosmos are very pretty flowers for the fall but cannot tolerate frost. They are drought tolerant and depending on the variety, will grow from 1 to 3 feet tall. Prefer full sun.

Daisies

Another beautiful and easy to grow flower, daisies look best when planted in groups or clumps. They are rarely affected by pests or diseases and are frost tolerant. Plant in rich, well-drained soil with plenty of sunshine.

Marigolds

While not frost tolerant, marigolds come in beautiful fall reds, golds, and yellows. They will last until the first frost. Generally, marigolds are considered good companion plants for keeping pests away from vegetable gardens. They prefer full to partial sun and rich, well-drained soil.

Pansies

Pansies are one of my favorite ornamental flowers. They have a delicate appearance and come in many different color combinations. Low maintenance, they can even survive past the first frost. They like full to partial sun and moist soil.

Petunias

Trumpet-shaped and colorful, petunias are a well-liked flower. The violet-flowered petunia is frost tolerant, but other types will last until the first frost. They prefer full sun but can tolerate partial shade.

Snapdragons

A front yard favorite, snapdragons produce an abundance of flowers in bright colors and enjoy cool fall weather. They can tolerate a heavy frost. They grow 1.5 to 3 feet tall and prefer full sun.

These flowers will keep your garden looking fresh for the next couple months. As an aside, the fall is also prime time to start thinking about spring flowers. Plan ahead and plant spring bulbs in October.

For gardening design, planting, and maintenance, hire an expert landscaping professional.

Best November flowers | Gardens Illustrated

November in the garden doesn't necessarily mean browns and no interest. In fact, there are a host of November flowers and plants that are in their element in this month, which can provide structure, support for the wildlife and lots and lots of stunning colour.

And what with the bright mornings that appear with more regularity as the season progresses, we'd even suggest that autumn can be one of the most colourful months of the year. Below are a few beautiful plants to help cheer you up and bring warmth to your outside space.

For more on what to do in the garden in November, head to Aaron Bertelsen's tips. And why not check out our suggestions of the best trees for autumn and ideas for making an autumn wreath?

Chosen by Tom Brown

Acaena microphylla ‘Kupferteppich’

I grow this charming plant for its copper-coloured foliage, which comes into its own in autumn and winter. In summer the finely feathered foliage is punctuated by small, yellow flowers that in autumn develop into attractive red burrs. It makes a wonderful groundcover plant but doesn’t like to be overshadowed by others. It’s best grown in a gravel garden with plenty of light and air. It can also be used to great effect between paving slabs, as it is robust enough to tolerate being occasionally trodden on.

Height 10-20cm. Origin Garden origin (species from New Zealand). Conditions Well-drained soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 7a-8b. Season of interest Interesting foliage throughout the year.

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Miscanthus nepalensis

Miscanthus is generally thought of as a robust and solid grass for the back of a border, but this species has a delicacy that can elude more vigorous miscanthus and gracefully achieves a height of only around 1. 5m. During November, the plumes have an elegance when they sway in the breeze and display an ease of movement and transparency that is incredibly appealing. If you believe there is no room for grasses in your garden then I suggest you give this one a try. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Height 1-1.5m. Origin Himalayas. Conditions Well-drained, reasonable garden soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 6a-8b. Season of interest Late summer flowering; seedheads into winter.

Rosa ‘Geranium’

This much-loved Rosa moyesii hybrid is incredibly robust and disease resistant. In summer it has large, delicately fragrant, bright-red blooms that in September make way for attention-grabbing red hips to bring a final hurrah to your beds and borders. Achieving a height of around two metres, it’s extremely effective at the back of a mixed border, patiently waiting in the background for its moment in the late autumn, when as perennials begin to fade, it reveals its fruitful beauty in all of its glory. AGM.

Height 1.5-2m. Origin Garden origin (species China). Conditions Moist but well-drained, fertile soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 4a-9b. Season of interest Flowering during the summer, fruiting autumn into winter.

Colletia paradoxa

A plant that won’t be to everyone’s taste. In late autumn and winter its small, white flowers – which appear among a fortress of spines – have a sweet, almost honey and almond-like scent that is quite enchanting. On closer observation – but be careful, not to get too close – you’ll see that what on first glance appear to be the leaves are actually modified triangular stems. The true leaves are small and often appear in spring. If you’re intrigued, there’s a wonderful specimen in the winter garden of Hillier’s in Hampshire.

Height 2.5-4m. Origin Uruguay and southern Brazil. Conditions Tolerant of most well-drained soils; sun. Hardiness RHS h5, USDA 7a-9b. Season of interest Early autumn to winter.

Euonymus hamiltonianus subsp. sieboldianus ‘Coral Charm’

A wonderful, deciduous, tree-like Euonymus that has tremendous autumn colour. In cold weather, its leaves gracefully drop to the ground to reveal clusters of coral-pink fruits with orange-red seeds that can persist well into winter, and which are a glorious sight when kissed with frost on a crisp, sunny November day. Makes a super tree for a smaller garden or as a lower-storey shrub in a woodland garden.

Height 4-8m. Origin Korea and Japan. Conditions Moist but free-draining soil; full sun or partial shade. Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 7a-8b. Season of interest Autumn and late winter.

Acer griseum

In late autumn and winter, when its papery, peeling bark is backlit, it has a wonderful translucent quality. For the most dramatic effect, it is best sited where it can be viewed from all angles, and light can penetrate the peeling bark. Introduced from China by the plant hunter Ernest Wilson in 1901, it is slow growing and will struggle in exposed garden situations, but place this paperbark maple in the right site, with the right growing conditions, and you’ll be patting yourself on the back for years to come. AGM.

More like this

Height 4-8m. Origin Central China. Conditions Fertile, moist but well-drained soil; sun or partial shade. Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 4a-8b. Season of interest Autumn foliage and winter stem interest.

Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca ‘Citrina’

Flowering plants are few and far between at this time of year. Coronillas have soft-yellow flowers that are sweetly citrus scented and appear on stems that scramble and ramble over the ground in a charmingly haphazard way. Coronillas will grow happily in a container with extra grit in the compost to allow plenty of air through the roots in those winter months, but avoid exposed sites, which can become waterlogged in winter. AGM.

Height 50cm-1m. Origin Garden origin (subspecies from Mediterranean France to Albania). Conditions Well-drained soil with moisture during the summer; sheltered position in sun. Hardiness RHS h5, USDA 9a-10b. Season of interest Late autumn and winter.

Galactites tomentosa

In midsummer, this milk thistle produces scented, purple flowers that are much loved by bees, butterflies and other pollinating insects. But it’s in autumn and winter when you can really appreciate its stunning crisp, white-and-green variegated foliage. It is among the most stunning foliage found in gardens during November. This thistle adores free-draining, sun-rich locations in the garden and, once established, has great drought-tolerant qualities. I find it best to collect the seed and sow them straight away as viability can be erratic.

Height 50cm-1m. Origin Mediterranean and southwestern Europe. Conditions Free draining soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS h5, USDA 9a-10b. Season of interest Flowering in summer but excellent crisp foliage in winter.

Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’

Few plants can rival a cherry tree when in full bloom, but this one also has flame-like autumn foliage to give the blossom a run for its money. If you have only a small garden then it pays to demand more from your plants, and this compact Prunus not only gives two bursts of interest it also offers great winter structure. But, trust me, once you see it in late autumn, backlit by the crisp autumn light, you’ll want this tree for your garden. AGM.

Height 1.5-2.5m. Origin Garden origin (species from Japan). Conditions Fertile, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Hardiness RHS H6, USDA 7a-8b. Season of interest Spring flowering and colourful autumn foliage.

Abelia x grandiflora

Plants that have become popular garden fixtures can easily be overlooked in favour of something new and unknown. But sometimes, it’s worth reminding ourselves that plants such as Abelia x grandiflora have remained popular for a reason. It is incredibly versatile, providing structure and soft-pink flowers from early summer to late autumn. Given a reasonable garden soil, it is trouble free and stands strong with glossy foliage. A plant that offers structure without compromising colour and flowers.

Height 2.5-4m. Origin Garden hybrid between A. chinensis and A. uniflora. Conditions Fertile, moist but well-drained soil; sun. Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 5a-9b. Season of interest Flowering from early summer into late autumn.

Chosen by Fleur van Vonneveld

Sorbus pseudohupehensis ‘Pink Pagoda’

Its beautiful, feathered, blue-green leaves have a greyish underside, and in autumn turn a glorious rich red. In spring it is covered in white flowers, which grow in pyramidal clusters, and are followed by dark-pink berries. Unlike other rowan berries, these pretty pink ones aren’t loved by birds, so the display continues until
the following spring. It’s a small tree that is easy to grow and is able to withstand extremes of heat, cold, strong winds and drought. AGM.

Height 8m. Origin Garden origin (species China). Conditions Well-drained soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H6. Season of interest Autumn.

Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’

This ornamental onion flowers late, from September to November, producing clusters of bright-purple to purple-pink flowers. Its thin, hollow, grassy leaves are attractive throughout the growing season and even turn slightly orange when temperatures fall below freezing. It forms neat clumps, so it is also suitable for pots. The species was first introduced from Japan in the 18th century, but this cultivar, which is more compact and flowers richly, was selected by the nurseryman George Schenk in Washington State, USA.

Height 40cm. Origin Garden origin (species Japan, China, Korea). Conditions Well-drained soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H5, USDA 4a-9b. Season of interest Autumn.

Nicandra physalodes ‘Black Pod’

An annual that is easy to grow from seed, although its bell-shaped flowers, which are pale blue to violet with some white, last for only a few hours a day in full glory. The spectacular, black-spotted seedpods are really small lampions that are long lasting when dried. It is a monotypic genus in the potato family, and very toxic if eaten. It takes its name from the ancient Greek poet and physician Nicander of Colophon who wrote several hundred hexameters on poisons and their antidotes.

Height 1m. Origin Garden origin (species South America). Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; full sun. Hardiness Not applicable. Season of interest Summer to autumn.

Nepeta kubanica

The large, purple-blue flowers of this nepeta rise beautifully above its large, fresh-green leaves, giving it a transparent feel. Its real strength comes to the fore after flowering when the purple spiked seedpods stand in whorls along the stem. They create a strong architectural effect in late autumn, when the upper half of the plant with the bushy seedpods turns a violet red. It looks beautiful when it is grown above a subtle grass, such as Sporobolus heterolepis, but can also be used to unusual and stunning effect when it’s combined with late-flowering anemones.

Height 80cm. Origin Russian region of Kuban (Caucasus). Conditions Well-drained soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H7. Season of interest Summer to autumn.

Deyeuxia effusiflora

At first sight this grass looks like Calamagrostis brachytricha, but the leaves are slightly wider and the plumes looser and more airy, attaining a soft, purple glow. It was found in 2010 by Cassian Schmidt, director of Hermannshof in Germany, on Mount Lu in central China at an altitude of 1,100m. In some winter lights, the leaves and plumes appear gold, while in others they can look silver. Its elegant, eye-catching panicles mean this is a grass that stands out as a solitary beauty in the middle of a border or in a prairie-style planting. It also works well as a contrast for the hard winter contours of hedges and buildings.

Height 1.2m. Origin China. Conditions Well-drained dry soil; full sun. Hardiness RHS H7. Season of interest Autumn.

Fuchsia ‘Blacky’

Like most fuchsias, ‘Blacky’ flowers non-stop from summer to late autumn, provided temperatures remain above freezing. We first came across this new cultivar, from Billy Carruthers at Binny Plants, at last year’s Great Dixter Autumn Plant Fair and fell for its very large flowers in a dark, black purple and purplish red. It’s an improved version of Fuchsia ‘Roesse Blacky’ with a chalice that looks like a ruffle skirt and slips that curl up. It’s a large, upright plant better suited for pots than for hanging baskets, and its almost-black fruits, which are over 1cm, are also very tasty.

Height 70cm. Origin Garden origin (species Mexico). Conditions Well-drained soil; full sun to part shade. Hardiness RHS h3. Season of interest Summer to autumn.

Plectranthus argentatus

Although its foliage provides interest from spring, the plant doesn’t bloom until late in the summer. But the blue spikes, when they do appear, stand out beautifully against the silver-grey leaves, making this a wonderful plant for a hot border where it provides a cooling contrast to more intense colours. In common with all Plectranthus species it’s not hardy, but is easy to propagate from seed or cuttings and does well in pots. Some species of Isodon, such as Isodon excisus, have a similar look for a hardy alternative.

Height 80cm. Origin Australia. Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; part shade. Hardiness RHS h2C. Season of interest Spring to
early winter.

Astilbe ‘Beauty of Ernst’

A cultivar, introduced in 2005 by the Dutch grower Henk Holtmaat. In summer the bright-green spring leaves mature to a purple colour then in autumn these fade to a wide colour spectrum that ranges from green and purple to gold, orange and deep red, which probably accounts for its alternative selling name of ‘Color Flash’. The pale-pink blooms, held on upright stems, also offer good autumn colour and, after flowering, dry to form reddish-brown silhouettes.

Height 60cm. Origin Garden origin (species China, Japan). Conditions Moist, rich soil; part to full shade. Hardiness RHS H7, USDA 5a-8b. Season of interest Autumn.

Saxifraga ‘Shiranami’

The name of this Japanese cultivar translates as ‘white wave’ and the abundant, pure-white, double flowers that froth above slightly hairy, apple-green leaves on short stems look like stylised sea foam. So stunning are its flowers, which without night frost will bloom until December, that it feels out of place among the often messy mix of browns in the late autumnal border and is better placed in nice pot on the terrace. This cultivar may be Japanese but the species, Saxifraga fortunei, is from China brought to Europe in the 19th century by the Scottish plant hunter Robert Fortune.

Height 30cm. Origin Garden origin (species China). Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; full sun to part shade. Hardiness RHS h5. Season of interest Autumn.

Clematis ‘Polish Spirit’

One of our favourite clematis. The medium-sized, dark-violet flowers contrast nicely with the fresh-green leaves. It is a clematis with a rich and long flowering period and one that is strong and almost never suffers from wilting disease. It is a good grower that can be easily guided through bushes and small trees such as Elaeagnus ‘Quicksilver’. It also combines wonderfully with climbing roses, such as the yellow ‘Golden Showers’, the voluptuous pink ‘Eden Rose’ or the single-flowered Open
Arms (= ‘Chewpixcel’). AGM.

Height 3m. Origin Hybrid of garden origin. Conditions Moist but well-drained soil; full sun to part shade. Hardiness RHS H6. Season of interest Late summer to autumn.

Planting and transplanting flowers in November

Autumn continues, but winter is already approaching. In November, the season officially ends in many gardens in our country. The trees are no longer leafy, but some flowers are still blooming. In more southern regions, escholcia and violets are re-blooming. While there are no severe frosts, the prominent stonecrop and chrysanthemums continue to delight. Now is also the time for winter planting and doing some garden work. For example, in November, you can and should be transplanting flowers.

Advantages of winter planting
Working in the garden with flowers in November
Choosing planting material
What flowers to plant in November in the country
When and how to plant flowers in November
How to replant flowers in November 9005 take care of flowers after planting and transplanting in November

Flowers in the garden after planting in November. Exceptions are those plants that bloom in the second year of life.

You will not need to grow seedlings, carry out stratification on your own. You will save your time and effort!

In the spring, you will not need to plant seedlings in the ground.

Photo: Planting flowers in autumn.

As a rule, seeds that have undergone natural stratification and sprouted on their own are hardened by small spring frosts and have better immunity. They bloom earlier than their "home" counterparts.

When the snow melts in spring, the seeds have plenty of moisture. Snow water is better than tap water. She is structured. Each seed receives a greater energy charge for growth.

Work in the garden with flowers in November

At the beginning of the month perennial flowers and the soil around them should be treated with a 7% urea solution. Closer to the middle of the month, we cover roses, clematis and other plants that need shelter.

We cover roses gradually. First we cut them and remove all the leaves from the branches. If the bush is large, we tie the branches and add earth to the roots. Looking forward to the first real cold. Roses are not afraid of frosts up to -7 ... -5 degrees. As soon as it becomes chilly on the street, we wrap them with spandbond. And when the first snow falls, cover with spruce branches on top. If you cover ahead of time, the bush will begin to rot from the inside, and this will not benefit the plant.

Shelter of roses in November. Photo

The beginning of November is the ideal time to dig up cannes, begonias and dahlias. When preparing them for storage, at the same time you can check how our tubers, dug earlier in September and October, are doing. Is there any mold or mildew? If at least something you do not like in the tubers, immediately begin to resolve the issue. Otherwise, next year you can be left without planting material.

Those who want to plant a lawn should prepare the lawn for planting grass in November.

Spud hydrangea roots on a dry, sunny day. Cover young hydrangeas for the winter in spandbond, and build a hut from spruce branches or branches from the garden on top.

Heather is also desirable to insulate for the winter. Pour a thick layer of peat under the roots, and cover with spruce branches on top.

The best way to preserve your flowers in the winter is to cover them with a wooden box and spruce branches. But you can’t get enough boxes and spruce branches for all the flowers.

There is an easier and more natural way that I use. In autumn, I do not remove dried leaves from the roots of perennial flowers. It is a natural defense against night frosts. I rake up all the dead parts in the spring and burn them. And even in spring I leave some leaves. When decomposed, they enrich the soil. Thus, I create a natural top dressing. In gardening, you need to build on the laws of nature. Try to do everything close to nature. And then the flowers will definitely thank you and let you know that you are doing everything right!

Shelter with wooden boxes. Photo

After completing all the covering and preventive work, we will only have to burn the dry tops from the plants, which were cut this fall. After burning, collect the ash, it will be a great fertilizer when spring comes.

How to choose the right planting material

Purchase seeds and bulbs only from reputable manufacturers.
Check the expiry date printed on the seed packets.
Bulbs and cuttings must be disease-free. Feel free to ask the seller to take the plant out of the pot to inspect its root system. And in the case of bulbs, ask to open the package if it is not transparent. It is often in autumn that sick and damaged bulbs of tulips and daffodils are sold at a markdown.
If you are an experienced grower and feel that such damage is not critical, then you can buy. I often buy bulbs on sale. Their appearance was not presentable, but they all took root and successfully multiplied.
Inexpensive bulbs are sold at the beginning of November. Here you need to manage to be in time so that the bulb takes root, and you have time to buy on the stock. Over time, you will learn all the nuances of the life of a gardener and learn how to do everything on time!

Photo: Planting material.
Buy seeds and bulbs just before planting.
If you didn't have time to plant the bulbs, then send them for winter storage in the sand, in a refrigerator or a frost-free basement, where the temperature will not fall below +6…+7 degrees.

Tip: Try not to buy spring-flowering bulbs directly in the spring. You do not know where they were stored and how. In appearance, the bulb may look quite presentable. But its expiration date has already expired.

Try to buy plants with recommended planting dates on the packages.
Peony delenki are best purchased in autumn, but they appear in stores at the end of winter, beginning of spring. Store peonies bought in the store until disembarkation in the refrigerator or in the basement.
Before planting, peony roots must be pickled in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.

What flowers can be planted in November before winter

Sowing before winter is recommended for many plants that need stratification. These include: aquilegia (catchment), escholcia, gaillardia, delphinium, primrose, various bells, carnations, hellebore, corydalis, backache, autumn aster, rudbeckia, echinacea, ornamental cereals and herbs, stonecrops, lavender, gentian and many others. Planted in early November and bulbous, provided that the month is warm, no severe frosts are expected. You can plant: crocuses, muscari, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips.

Rudbeckia in the garden. Photo

Calendula, aster, annual chrysanthemum, matthiola bicorne, iberis, flax, cornflowers, lavatera, scabiosa, mallow, marigolds, cosmea, allisum, escholcia, gypsophila are sown from annuals.

Planting flowers in November: rules and suitable numbers

The best time to sow seeds is from the beginning of the month to the middle. As long as there are no severe frosts and the ground is soft. You can sow even on the first snow. The beds need to be prepared in advance: fertilize and make grooves. And when the earth rises, scatter seeds over the snow. The snow can still melt, so the seeds will naturally go deep into the ground and will not go anywhere.

We dig up the land for planting on a spade bayonet, loosen it so that it is “lush”. We add organic fertilizers: rotted manure or compost to saturate the earth with nutrients. If there is no organic matter, you can add granules or water the seedlings with nutrient solutions in the spring.

We make shallow grooves in the ground. If the seeds are small, then simply scatter them over the surface without making grooves. When sowing, try to spread the seeds a little thicker than usual. So you insure yourself in case some seeds die in winter.

Ideal if you immediately sow the seeds in a permanent place of growth. So you will not need to deal with transplanting seedlings in the spring, and young plants will be less injured.

Grooves for planting flowers. Photo

As a rule, I make grooves in a circle so that the plants grow in bouquets. I also plant immediately in a permanent place, so as not to do extra work. When you have a lot of plants in the garden, then every minute counts, there is always a lot to do. You begin to value your time, and try to spend a minimum of effort for maximum results.

I do not sprinkle anything on very small seeds. And I sprinkle medium and large ones with a thin layer of no more than 1 cm from a mixture of peat or humus with garden soil.

After planting, no watering is necessary.

How and when to transplant flowers in November

At the beginning of November, peonies can still be divided. But only if you have not yet had snow, there are no permanent frosts, and there is a warm autumn in the yard. This year, in Central Russia in early November, peonies can be divided.

Phlox dreamy in the garden. Photo

Other flowers that can be replanted in November are phloxes. Some types of flowers easily tolerate transplanting at any time of the year, for example, sedum and stonecrop prominent. Divide in early November and some bulbs: muscari, daffodils, crocuses, chionodoxes.

How to care for flowers after planting and transplanting in November

After planting and transplanting, the plants must be well watered. The aerial part of many species has already turned yellow and dried up by this time, it can be cut off, leaving small stumps at the base of the root.

Covering flowers with damaged roots. Photo

If the roots are severely damaged during transplantation, be sure to cover such a bush for the winter. Pour a good 10 cm layer of earth over the roots. Remove it in the spring. Sprinkle a layer of dry leaves on top or cover with spruce branches.

Favorable days for planting and transplanting flowers in November 2020

By choosing the days of planting and transplanting according to the lunar calendar, you increase the chances of successful plant cultivation. The fact is that the lunar calendar is compiled according to the lunar phases. All the dates that are recommended fall on days when the sap flow in the upper part of the plants increases and the roots become slightly dehydrated. Thanks to this, plants easily tolerate various manipulations with them.

In November 2020, the following days are considered auspicious: the 14th, 18th and 27th. Unfavorable from 1 to 13, 16, 17, from 19 to 26, 28 and 29.

How to save dug up roses in a cellar or basement0003

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planting, transplanting, fertilizing, watering and pruning

Author: Elena N. https://floristics. info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Reissued: February 19, 2022 Last edited: February 19, 2022

Contents

Gardening in November
Planting flowers in November
- What flowers are planted
- How to plant
Flower transplant in November
- How and when to transplant flowers
- What flowers dig
Cutting of flowers in November
Preparation for winter 9000
Comments 9000
Comments 9000
Comments

The smell of winter is already here. In the last month of autumn, only chrysanthemums remained from the flowers in the garden. Frosts will soon begin, central heating has already started working in the houses, in the morning on the way to work people exhale clouds of steam. There is peace and quiet in the almost bare garden, but far from all the plants have already fallen asleep and far from all the garden work has yet been done. What remains to be done to prepare the garden for winter?

Work in the garden in November

At the beginning of the last month of autumn, if September and October were dry, winter watering of shrubs and trees is carried out, without which withered plants are more likely to freeze. In the first decade of the month, flowers are simultaneously fertilized and the plants and soil around them are treated with a seven percent urea solution. At the end of autumn, it is time to lay and cover climbing roses, clematis for the winter, and also sow the seeds of annual and some perennial plants.

In the last month of autumn, begonias, dahlias and cannes are dug up and cleaned from the ground for storage until spring planting, at the same time you need to check how the bulbs and tubers that you dug up in September and October are stored. Lawn and lawn lovers need to prepare the soil for sowing grass. Young shrubs should be wrapped in a dense, breathable material, the ends of which should be sprinkled with earth so that the plant shoots do not become easy prey for rodents. Plants that cannot winter without shelter should be wrapped with material or covered with spruce branches.

That seems to be all. After that, all that remains is to remove the garbage in the garden, rake and burn the last leaves, with the ashes of which you will fertilize the flower beds next year.

Planting flowers in November

What kind of flowers are planted

Winter sowing of flowers is justified by the fact that seedlings of autumn sowing germinated in spring are much more resistant to spring frosts. But not all seeds can withstand natural stratification in winter soil. What kind of flowers can be sown in the garden before winter? Lavender, aquilegia, primrose, gaillardia, gentian, delphinium, arabis, bluebell, small-petal, yarrow, carnation, hellebore, corydalis, adonis, backache, aconite, sanguinaria and some others.

How to plant

Sow the seeds from the beginning to the middle of November in furrows. If the seeds are too small, they are mixed with sand. The grooves with seeds are sprinkled with a mixture of fertile soil with humus and peat, which is prepared in advance and kept indoors, protecting it from freezing. The crops do not need to be watered.

Replanting flowers in November

How and when to repot flowers

In November, it is still possible to divide the bushes and replant peonies, but only if frosts are not predicted in the near future. It is better to do this at the beginning of the month, until the ground is frozen.

What kind of flowers are dug up

Tubers of flowers such as cannes, dahlias and begonias, if you did not do this in October, after the first frost, you need to dig up, clean from the ground, dry, pickle in a pink solution of potassium permanganate and store in a dry dark a place with a temperature not higher than 5 ºC.

Plants such as datura, fuchsia, petunias, silver cineraria and pelargonium should not be left in the garden over the winter. They need to be cut, transplanted into flower pots and placed in a cool room until spring.

Mineral fertilizers or organics - we deal with the pros and cons!

Pruning flowers in November

Pruning flowers that will have to be covered for the winter is the next step in preparing the garden for winter. In November, clematis and roses are pruned. Clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year are cut short, and those that bloom on the shoots of last year are not cut, only too long lashes are shortened. Floribunda rose and hybrid tea rose are pruned at a height of 45-60 cm from the ground, removing all unripened shoots. In miniature and polyanthus roses, only inflorescences are cut.

Some amateur gardeners cut off the ground part of perennial flowers in anticipation of winter, and some do not, and everyone has their own reasons. Decide for yourself what is best for your flowers.

Preparing plants for wintering

In the last month of autumn, flower care consists mainly in preparing them for winter. If in your area the winters are not cold and snowy, consider yourself lucky: in light frosts, under a warm snow cover, the flowers will overwinter well. But what if the frosts are strong, and there is little snow? And what will happen to the perennials planted at the end of autumn, which have not yet developed a root system? No need to wait for mercy from nature, it is better to prepare flowers for a harsh winter. If it turns out to be not too harsh, so much the better.

Cover hibernating bushes with dry earth. In dry weather, spud adult hydrangea bushes, and cover young plants with non-woven material in several layers or make a spruce hut over them. Cover heather and erica with spruce branches, after adding dry peat to the base of the bushes. Place an inverted wooden box on the clematis cut at the root and cover it with roofing material, the edges of which are pressed with stones. Remove the clematis that you have not cut off from the support, lay it on the ground with a ring, cover it with spruce branches, and press it on top with a shield of boards, placing a block of wood under it for ventilation.

Wintering perennials in the ground, as well as those planted in autumn, mulch with a layer of compost, peat or garden soil 5 cm thick. Less winter-hardy flowers require additional shelter. Rhododendrons and forsythia are spudded, laid on the ground, pinned and covered with spruce branches. Coniferous plants, often suffering from sunburn in early spring, are loosely wrapped in burlap, but this can also be done in the middle of winter.

Before sheltering for the winter, the lower parts of the branches of roses are cleaned of leaves, trying not to damage the buds, and spud to a height of 20 cm. An air-dry shelter with spruce branches or oak leaves is built around standard roses or laid on the ground and covered with spruce branches. Climbing roses are also spud, then removed from the support and laid on boards or spruce branches.