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Do leaves make good mulch


Tips On Using Leaf Litter For Mulch

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Mulch

By: Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Image by James Andrews

Many gardeners view the piles of dropped autumn leaves as a nuisance. Perhaps this is due to the labor involved in raking them up or it might be simple ennui as the season changes and cold weather makes its approach. Either way, dead leaves should actually be looked upon as a boon. Leaf litter mulch in gardens has numerous attributes and mulching with leaves is an inexpensive and renewable way to achieve garden gold. Read on for some interesting leaf mulch info to get you composting that spent foliage and cleaning up the yard.

What is Leaf Mulch?

Mulch is any material that is placed atop the soil to moderate its environment and enhance the landscape. There are many types of mulch, and leaf mulch is comprised of exactly what it sounds like, leaves. This organic mulch will decompose and needs to be replaced eventually but, in the meantime, it improves the soil’s fertility and its organic content. Mulching with leaves is a win/win in many situations where you want more rapid decomposition and is generally a free commodity to anyone that has deciduous trees.

The avid gardener spends quality time amending his or her soil and getting ready for the growing season. Some of us make our own compost, purchase manures or even buy soil additives. The cheaper solution, however, is to use what nature gives you for free. Using leaf litter for mulch enriches the soil and perpetuates the cycle of life by renewing plants.

So exactly how is leaf mulch good for plants? The benefits of leaf litter mulch are abundant:

Tips on Mulching with Leaves

The best way to use leaves is to shred them. You can do this in a number of ways but it is best to let them dry first. Once dry, use a lawn mower to chop them into little pieces. Dried leaves as mulch break down more quickly and shred easily. You can also use leaves after the season that have been moist and developed into leaf mold. These are partially decomposed and can be worked into the soil.

Using leaf litter for mulch is an easy way to recycle the debris in your yard. To use the dried leaves as mulch, spread them at a rate of 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm.) around trees and shrubs and 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) over perennial beds. You can use them to insulate rose bushes in November; just pull them away before the bushes start spring growth.

Work leaf litter into vegetable beds to increase porosity and add valuable nutrients. The smaller the leaves are shredded, the quicker they will break down and the less likely they will mat and mold.

Composting with Leaves

Using leaf litter as mulch has many benefits, but you can also simply compost the dead foliage. You can use the three-bin system, a composter or simply a pile of leaves. Rake the leaves into a pile in an area that will get wet on occasion. Leave the pile alone for about 2 years and it will become rich, crumbly compost ready to amend your flower beds. As in mulching, it’s best to cut them up to fine pieces for quicker composting.

Keep the leaves moderately moist and turn the pile at least weekly. For a balanced compost, mix in some grass clippings to add nitrogen. The proper ratio of nitrogen to carbon is 25 to 30 carbon (leaves) to 1 part nitrogen (grass).

Keeping the pile warm, moist and aerated will guarantee juicy soil in the future and that the fine shreds will break down quickly for fast compost that will benefit the whole garden.

I can’t think of anything better than leaf mulch if you have trees on your property. Free exercise and free organic mulch to nourish your garden year round! So don’t rake and bag those fall leaves, turn them into leaf mulch instead. Now that you know how to use leaf mulch in gardens, you can take advantage of the fantastic “green” benefits mulching with leaves provides.

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Don't Bag It - Leaf Management Plan

Vince Mannino, Horticulturist, Jefferson County
Robert Richter, Horticulturist, Montgomery County
Doug Welsh and Sam Cotner, Extension Horticulturists, The Texas A&M University System

During the year, at least 20 percent of the solid waste generated by Texans comes from grass clippings, tree leaves and other landscape wastes. Bagging these materials and placing them into the curbside garbage collection system uses valuable landfill space, removes nutrients from the environment, and costs cities and the people of Texas more in increased taxes and service fees.

Of the landscape waste, approximately half is composed of tree leaves. The “Don’t Bag It” Leaf Management Plan is an ecologically sound program designed to significantly reduce the volume of leaves entering community landfills, thereby extending their life and saving tax dollars.

Managing Leaves

The tree leaves that accumulate in and around your landscape represent a valuable natural resource that can be used to provide a good source of organic matter and nutrients for use in your landscape. It is an established fact that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall. You may complain, as you lean wearily on a leaf rake, that your neighborhood outdoes any forest, but be thankful. Hang on to your leaves. And if your neighbors don’t want them, hang on to theirs. It makes no sense to send valuable treasure to the dump.

In forests, pastures and other natural settings, tree leaves and other organic wastes form a natural carpet over the soil surface which conserves moisture, modifies temperatures and prevents soil erosion and crusting. In time bacteria, fungi and other natural occurring organisms decompose or compost the leaves and other organic material, supplying the existing plants with a natural, slow release form of nutrients. You can, and should, take advantage of this same concept.

Options for Managing and Using Leaves

Leaves are truly a valuable natural resource! They contain 50 to 80 percent of the nutrients a plant extracts from the soil and air during the season. Therefore, leaves should be managed and used rather than bagged and placed at curbside to be picked up and hauled to landfills. There are four basic ways in which leaves can be managed and used in the landscape.

Leaf Management – Mowing
A light covering of leaves can be mowed, simply leaving the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, during times of light leaf drop or if there are only a few small trees in your landscape, this technique is probably the most efficient and easiest way to manage leaf accumulation.

Leaf Management – Mulching
Mulching is a simple and effective way to recycle leaves and improve your landscape. Mulches reduce evaporation from the soil surface, inhibit weed growth, moderates soil temperatures, keep soils from eroding and crusting, and prevent soil compaction. As organic mulches decompose, they release valuable nutrients for use by your landscape plants.
Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves.

Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. For vegetable gardens, a thick layer of leaves placed between the rows function as a mulch and an all-weather walkway that will allow you to work in your garden during wet periods. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival.

Leaf Management – Soil Improvement
Leaves may be collected and worked directly into garden and flower bed soils. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into a heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. The same amount tilled into a light, sandy soil, will improve water and nutrient holding capacity.
A recommended strategy for using leaves to improve soil in vegetable gardens and annual planting beds is to collect and work them into the soil during the fall. This allows sufficient time for the leaves to decompose prior to spring planting. Adding a little fertilizer to the soil after working in the leaves will hasten their decomposition.

Leaf Management – Composting
Knowledge of composting dates back to the early Greeks and Romans. The Arabs kept the science of composting alive during the Dark Ages, and it continued throughout the Renaissance. From Shakespeare’s Hamlet comes the line “spread the compost on the weeds, to make them ranker!” In America, the value of composting was recognized by George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and George Washington Carver. Today, knowledge and interest in the science of composting is increasing dramatically. Whether an ancient art or a modern science, composting is a useful and environmentally sound gardening practice for you.

What is compost?

Compost is a dark, crumbly and earth-smelling form of organic matter that has gone through a natural decomposition process.

Compost can be used to:

If you have a garden, lawn, trees, shrubs, or even planter boxes or house plants, you have a use for compost.

What can be composted?

In addition to leaves, other yard wastes such as grass clippings, pine needles, weeds, small or chipped prunings and spent garden plants can be composted. Avoid composting diseased or insect infested plant materials, noxious weeds, meat, dairy products, cooking oil, or grease.

Essentials of Composting

To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water and a small amount of nitrogenare needed. Microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria break down the organic material. A small amount of garden soil or compost can provide sufficient microorganisms. The nitrogen, air and water provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to decompose the organic materials and make compost. Air is the only ingredient which cannot be added in excess. A lack of nitrogen to “feed” the microorganisms will greatly slow the process, while an excessive amount is wasteful and can kill the microorganisms. Too much water limits the amount of air (oxygen) available to the microorganisms, greatly inhibiting their activity. As composting occurs, heat is generated, often causing temperatures to rise to 140 degrees F.

Methods of Composting

The process of composting can be carried out in traditional compost piles or bins, trenches, bags or barrels.

Piles or Bins – You can compost in almost any type of bin or suitable container. Or you can stack the leaves in a loose pile for composting, although available space is used more efficiently if you use some type of bin or enclosure.

Locate the compost pile or bin in a convenient but out of the way location. Since the compost needs to be kept moist, a convenient source of water is desirable.

If you choose to use a bin for composting, it can be constructed from any number of different materials, including wire fencing, concrete reinforcing wire, wood slates, cement blocks, bricks or scrap lumber. Regardless of what you use, the sides should be open enough to provide for good air movement through the bin. One side should be able to be opened to allow for easy turning and removal of the finished compost.

The truth is that compost bins help people, not the composition process. You can make excellent compost in any type of bin or no bin at all. So as you design your composting facility, let the human factors, neatness, ease of turning, economy, performance and good looks, take high priorities.

The most common method of building a compost pile or bin is in layers. For each 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves (and other suitable organic materials), add 1 inch of compost or rich garden soil. Next, add about 1 inch of manure or 1 cup of nitrogen rich fertilizer for each 20 to 25 square feet of surface area and then repeat the layers. Moisten each layer as it is constructed. Mix the pile weekly during the summer and monthly during the winter, providing moisture as needed. Remember, avoid keeping the compost pile too wet! Ideally, your compost pile or bin should be 3 to 5 feet in diameter and several layers deep to encourage rapid, effective decomposition.

Types of Structures


Trenching Composting – Trench composting involves decomposing the leaves “in place” where the organic matter is needed. Although this form of composting can be done in other suitable areas, it is extremely well adapted for use in small vegetable gardens, especially if you do not have room for a compost pile or bin.

Trench composting involves digging trenches at least 8 to 10 inches wide and one foot or more deep. In a vegetable garden, the pathways between the rows are ideal locations for trenches. Backfill the trenches with shredded leaves and other forms of organic matter, along with about five shovel-fulls of manure or a cup of fertilizer for each 25 feet of trench. Soil from the trenches can be used to form raised planting beds or utilized in other areas of your landscape.

For your next garden, locate your raised planting beds or rows over the trenched areas. The compost will provide greatly improved soil conditions for your vegetables and supply them with some of their needed nutrients. By continuing the trench composting process each gardening season, all of your garden soil will eventually be improved – as well as your results at harvest time.

Bag Composting – Bag composting is one of the easiest composting methods. However, the quality of the compost produced may not be as high as that made by more traditional methods.

To produce compost in a bag, simply collect the leaves and place them in heavy-duty, plastic trash bags. As with other methods or composting, shredded leaves work best. Into each bag full of leaves, put one to two shovel fulls of garden soil and either two shovel-fulls of manure or about one-half cup of a high nitrogen fertilizer. Apply enough water to thoroughly moisten the leaves. Punch 10 to 15 holes in the plastic bag to allow for air circulation through the leaves. Turn the bag once or twice and add water, if needed, to keep the leaves moist. Store your bags of composting leaves in an out-of-sight place. After about 2 weeks open the bags to check on the composting process. Under most circumstances, the compost will be ready for use in about 6 to 8 weeks.

Commercial Composting Devices – Garden catalogs and retail outlets offer numerous different types of commercial composting devices, such as boxes, bins and barrels. The devices are usually constructed of plastic, wood and/or metal. They provide a quick way to start composting for the gardener who isn’t a “build-it-yourselfer”. Prices vary and range from reasonable to expensive. Commercial composting devices will do a fine job, as long as you follow the basic essentials of composting.

SYMPTOMS PROBLEMS SOLUTION
The compost has a bad odor. Not enough air, pile too wet. Turn it; add coarse dry materials such as straw, corn stalks, etc.
The center of the pile is dry. Not enough water, too much woody, coarse material. Turn and moisten materials; add fresh green wastes, chop or shred coarse wastes.
The compost is damp and warm in the middle, but nowhere else. Too small. Collect more materials and mix the old ingredients into a new pile.
The heap is damp and sweet smelling but still will not heat up. Lack of nitrogen. Mix in a nitrogen source like fresh grass clippings, fresh manure, or ammonium sulfate.

The information herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Cooperative Extension Service is implied.

Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service serve people of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, handicap or national origin.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Zerle L. Carpenter, Director, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, the Texas A&M University System.

Popular mulching material for decoration and utility

Mulch or not? This question is asked by almost every owner of a summer cottage. Mulching is the covering of the soil surface, in particular the near-stem circle, with various materials.

What are the benefits of mulching?

Firstly , the mulch has a protective function. Such material protects the root system of plants from overheating and hypothermia. nine0003

Secondly , it reduces the number of weeds in its location.

Thirdly, protects against drying out of the soil and reduces the likelihood of soil crust formation.

Fourth, , it perfectly performs a decorating function.


Can I mulch for the winter?

Yes, you can and should. Let's see why and why. In autumn, we mulch the near-stem circles of plants so that the roots located near the soil surface do not freeze. In addition, under this material, the soil will begin to thaw faster in the spring. nine0022

There are two main categories of mulching material: organic and inorganic.

Organic mulching material is sawdust, peat, green manure, grass clippings, straw, foliage, compost and more. Mulching material of organic origin, decomposing, helps to increase soil fertility and improve its structure.


Sawdust mulching

Almost all plants can be mulched with sawdust. For example, if you mulch strawberries with sawdust, they will perfectly save this tasty berry from attack by slugs and from fruit rotting, because. the berries will no longer come into contact with the soil, and access to slugs will be very difficult. Also, slugs do not like straw. Plants that prefer acidic soil can and should be mulched with sawdust. So, for example, hydrangeas, which have recently been in great demand, love acidic soil, and they prefer to keep their “legs” in the shade, like actinidia (a beautiful liana with miniature kiwi fruits). Mulch protects the soil surface from direct sunlight and prevents evaporation of moisture from the surface layer, which is essential for plants. When using sawdust as a mulching material, it is important to ensure that they do not cake, forming a crust, in order to prevent the rhizome from warming up. In addition, sawdust can be used to mulch plants in the winter. They give warmth. nine0003

Those who like to gnaw nuts or seeds for long evenings: seed husks and even nut shells (walnut, cedar, forest) are suitable as mulch. So do not rush to throw away the husk and shell, it will still serve you well.

Peat mulching

In addition to sawdust, there are several other types of organic mulching material. For example, peat, a natural resource that has been formed over thousands of years, is an indispensable mulching material. nine0003

When we mulch the soil with peat, we protect it not only from hypothermia, but also from wind erosion, and also improve its fertility and chemical composition. And mulching for the winter is best with peat. For example, tender bushes of southern and everyone's favorite roses, creating an "anthill" 20-30 cm high. When we mulch with peat for the winter, we create additional shelter in addition to snow, which will be a source of heat in winter, which is difficult for delicate plants. And if we mulch the beds with peat, then in the spring the soil will thaw faster, because. the dark color heats up faster, and besides, it will improve the structure of the soil! Peat can be sprinkled not only with roses, but also with any other plants. For trees and shrubs that prefer acidic soil, it is better to use acidic peat. For example, rhododendrons. Before the onset of frost, a small layer of peat can be sprinkled on the surface of the tree circle, thereby protecting its delicate roots in the event of a long absence of snow cover. With the onset of spring, peat mulch does not need to be removed: acting with melt water into the soil, it improves its composition, being an excellent fertilizer. For example, peat is often used for raspberry mulching, because this shrub needs a lot of moisture. nine0003

Leaf mulching

Often, guests of our garden center ask the question, do plants mulch with leaves, especially in autumn, when there is plenty of foliage after leaf fall?! Let's figure it out. Fallen leaves are a biomaterial that also warms and protects the soil from excessive evaporation and overheating. Moreover, the most affordable mulching material. Waited for leaf fall and nothing to buy. Collected foliage and covered her plants. But is everything as simple as it seems at first glance? Foliage, in fact, is a rich biomaterial for mulching, but after all, during the season, it must have been subjected to various misfortunes, such as fungal diseases. So apple trees often get sick with scab, and phloxes and maples with powdery mildew; roses - black spot; pear, mountain ash and apple tree - rust. If during the season no measures were taken to eliminate the diseases or these measures were not enough, then the use of this foliage for mulching is a great danger. After all, mushroom spores will calmly overwinter in “warmth and comfort”, and also, if a thick layer of snow falls, in spring these spores will be carried by the wind, melt water, and even, to be honest, by ourselves throughout the garden. And in the end there will be a vicious circle with diseases. But, if your garden has not been "attacked" by fungal diseases, or you have taken preventive measures, then the foliage can be safely used for mulching. And also, if the garden was still prone to diseases this year, and it’s a pity to throw out the foliage, and there is no way to purchase peat or sawdust, then treat the foliage with a 3-5% solution of copper sulfate to kill fungal spores and then you can safely use it for mulching . Plus, it's perfect for a compost pit! nine0003


Needle mulch

In addition to foliage, coniferous litter can also be used as mulch. But also with caution. Needles affected by diseases must undergo a course of treatment. But caution does not hurt here either: when decaying, the needles acidify the soil, and this must be taken into account when planning to mulch a particular plant. If you mulch with coniferous litter plants growing on neutral and slightly alkaline soil, such as roses, tomatoes, potatoes, apple trees, etc., then you can seriously pay for such a rash step. The soil will then have to be loosened. And this is another vicious circle: first we acidify, then we deoxidize. Coniferous litter can be used to mulch the soil under coniferous plants: arborvitae, spruces, pines, as well as heathers - blueberries, cranberries, rhododendrons, heathers, and, of course, for the queen of the shady garden - hydrangeas. nine0003


Mulching material

Another available material for mulching is freshly cut grass. And if, in addition to cereals, lupine, alfalfa, mustard, nettle and peas were sown, then the benefits will be more significant: the soil will be enriched with micronutrients of different groups, which will improve its structure.

Wood chip mulch is suitable for perennial flowers, rock gardens, rockeries and simple flower beds. Chips can be of natural color and dyed (blue, green, red ...). As a rule, dyed loses color over time. This type of mulching is used only for decorative purposes. nine0003

Mulching with bark (oak, pine, larch) gives an even more decorative look.

The benefits of using natural bark are tangible: it is light, but voluminous and durable, and it also contains a lot of phytoncides that “heal” the air. Such mulching looks natural, aesthetic and is suitable both for the near-trunk circles of individual plants, and for creating a charming “rug” in landscape compositions. And, by the way, this is the most durable cover among the mulches of natural origin. nine0003

In order for the mulch layer to “last” longer, it is better to lay it on non-woven material, and not directly on the ground. So the mulch will be able to perform its functions longer (several years), and indeed not only reduce the growth of weeds, but generally can get rid of them.

Artificial mulch

The most durable types of mulch are artificial materials: stones and film. Every year, textile materials are used more actively, which include polypropylene fiber. Their clear advantage is an affordable price and decent quality, and besides, they absorb the sun's rays. The most popular mulching material of this kind is the well-known mulching film called geotextile. This fine covering gives unconditional protection against weeds. nine0003

Mulching with stones is an equally popular way to design compositions and protect against weeds and moisture evaporation. Often crushed stone, gravel, pebbles, and even expanded clay are used for this: all of them will perfectly complement rock gardens, rockeries, flower beds and other compositions. By the way, stones are usually used to create an artificial (dry) stream. And if you use your imagination, then the very mulching with stones can become a whole composition.

It is important to consider that the bark and stones are more of a decorative and applied value, since they are able to transform any garden composition. However, they can serve as an obstacle to tillage. And because of its structure, the same expanded clay crumbles into small pieces over time. nine0003

By mulching flowerbeds, compositions and near-stem circles of trees, you give them not only a noble appearance, but also make it easier for you to take care of the plants. Due to this, there are fewer weeds, the speed of their appearance is reduced, and the frequency of watering is also reduced. Especially in a dry summer (which was the summer of 2018), and, very importantly, thanks to the use of mulch, you protect the plant's root system from overheating.


DIY garden mulch

How to make mulch

Mulch is essential in the garden because it prevents soil erosion, retains moisture in the soil, keeps weeds from growing, protects plants from pests, and helps the soil maintain a more even temperature. You can make your own mulch by collecting and reusing organic matter found in your yard, including leaves, grass clippings, and green branches.

How to make leaf mulch

Almost every gardener has deciduous trees and shrubs that are a great source of mulch, and leaf mulch is a good all-rounder for your garden. You can collect leaves in the fall during leaf fall, or collect them during summer pruning. Collect the leaves using a rake or blower to rake them into a large pile. A shovel and a wheelbarrow might come in handy if you don't have a rake or blower.
Avoid using walnut and chestnut leaves as they may inhibit the growth of other plants. nine0022 Spread the leaves on a flat area of ​​the lawn in a layer no thicker than 5 cm.

Crush the leaves with a lawn mower. Walk over the pile several times to cut the leaves into smaller pieces. Continue chopping until the pieces are one to two centimeters in size. The crushed leaves decompose more easily in the garden, and this will provide the soil with nutrients. Use brush cutters to manually chop the leaves if you don't have anything else.
After the leaves have been crushed, they can be used as mulch in the garden. Use the mulch right away and don't store it for a long time. nine0003

Excess mulch can be stored in a ventilated barrel, in a large bag with air holes, or spread out on a tarp and covered with breathable material.
Once the leaf mulch is ready, you can also combine it with other suitable materials such as shredded bark, sawdust, etc.
The longer the mulch is stored, the more nutrients it will lose.
Mulch stored in areas with poor or no ventilation will ferment and release high pH toxins that are harmful to plants. nine0003

How to make mulch with different combinations

Wood

Grind tree branches, bark and sawdust. Wood is also an organic substance that makes good mulch. Wood and bark must first be crushed through a grinder.
Bark and wood mulch can be used alone or in combination with leaf mulch. Wood mulch is good for fruit-bearing gardens and plants, but should not be used on young plants. Wood decomposes more slowly than leaves, so this will be a good mulch for long term use. nine0003

Grass cuttings

Gather lawn cut grass (when cutting grass with a hand scythe or a lawn mower with a cutting blade, it should be further chopped) to add to the mulch. Finely chopped grass is a good addition to leaf mulch, although they are not as effective when used alone. After you've cut your lawn, rake up the grass clippings and mix them in using a shovel or fork.
If your mower has a grass collection bag, simply pour the contents of the container onto the leaf mulch when you are done. nine0003

Needles

Rake fallen pine needles for your mulch. Like grass clippings, fallen needles can also be mixed into leaf mulch. Pine mulch is best used for plants that tolerate acidic soil well.

Paper

Use shredded paper. Newspaper and other types of paper can also be recycled and turned into mulch. Gather up the paper and use a shredder or regular scissors to shred the paper into small pieces. Mix the pieces of paper with the sheet mulch and use as usual. nine0003

How to Mulch for Summer and Winter

In the summer, mulch will help your gardens retain moisture and keep roots from getting too hot. In winter, mulch will protect plants from frost and keep them from freezing. Summer mulches decompose over time, but winter mulches should be removed.
A good summer mulch is a composition of leaves, a mixture of leaves and compost.
For winter, these are needles, straw and bark. Winter mulches don't decompose as quickly as summer mulches, so it's important to remove them in the summer so that a nutrient-rich compound can be added to the soil. In the spring, when you start gardening again, rake up the mulch that protected the gardens in cold weather. It can be added to the compost heap. nine0003

Weeds

Before you mulch your garden, go around and pull out any weeds you find.

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