Diy chain link fencing
How to Install a Chain Link Fence
By
Lee Wallender
Lee Wallender
Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for over 13 years.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
Updated on 12/06/21
Reviewed by
Deane Biermeier
Reviewed by Deane Biermeier
Deane Biermeier is an expert contractor with nearly 30 years of experience in all types of home repair, maintenance, and remodeling. He is a certified lead carpenter and also holds a certification from the EPA. Deane is a member of The Spruce's Home Improvement Review Board.
Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board
Lars-Åke Svärdsten / Getty Images
Project Overview
Chain link fences are an economical way to fence in your property and keep everyone safe. Chain link is also one of few fence materials that creates a secure barrier without impeding your sightline. And chain link fencing is tough, with very little maintenance required over the years.
Chain link fences can be a bit tricky to install because nearly every component is unique to this type of fence. But after you've constructed one post-to-post stretch of chain link fence, all other sections are easier to build.
Working With Chain Link Fence
A full chain link fence consists of many parts, especially when you add gates or build corners. But there are a few major components common to all chain link fences:
- Chain Link: Available in rolls 50 feet long, chain link mesh or fabric is usually galvanized for long-term durability and to prevent rust. Vinyl coated chain link in green or black blend with many landscapes and usually cost about 25 to 30 percent more than galvanized steel chain link fence mesh.
- Terminal Posts: At each end of a section of fencing is a thick, sturdy terminal post that provides most of the strength.
Terminal posts are mounted in concrete in the ground. For a 4-foot-high chain link fence, you'll need 6-foot long terminal posts. - Line Posts: Line posts go between terminal posts every 8 to 10 feet, divided evenly between terminal posts.
- Top Rail: The top rail is a 10-foot, 6-inch metal pipe that runs across the tops of the terminal and line posts. The top of the chain link attaches to the top rail.
- Tension Bars: Tension bars are flat vertical strips of metal that weave into the chainlink material. Running parallel to and near the terminal posts, tension bars help you tighten the chain link material against the terminal posts.
- Tension Bands: Tension bands are open-ended bands that fit over the terminal posts and attach to the tension bars. Tension bands are placed about every 12 inches.
- Tie Wires: Tie wires or fence ties are 6 1/2-inch-long aluminum wires that let you attach the chain link to various points on the posts and top rail.
- Terminal Post Caps: Dome-shaped post caps fit over the tops of the terminal posts to improve the appearance and to prevent debris from settling in the open-ended posts.
- Line Post Eye Tops: Eye tops fit on top of the line posts. The top rail fits through the circular top (or, the eye) of this piece. The eye top helps hold the top rail in place.
- Rail End: A rail end is a metal cap that fits over both ends of a top rail, helping to hold the top rail to the terminal posts.
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Codes and Regulations
Codes and permitting vary per location. In many areas, a fence permit is required only if the fence rises above a certain height, such as 4, 6, or 8 feet. The fence must also comply with municipal setback and location restrictions.
Houses in developments with private Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&Rs) and an HOA (homeowners association) may not be controlled by municipal codes and restrictions, so check with the HOA before installing the chain link fence.
Many HOA communities control the types of fencing materials and will not allow chain link fencing.
Tip
You may be required to speak to your neighbor about the fence and obtain written permission to build it. Whether or not it's required, it's always good etiquette to first speak to your neighbor about the fence.
When to Install Chain Link Fence
Because chain link fence materials are waterproof and impervious to rot and freezing, they can be installed at any time of year. If your area requires the terminal and line posts to be sunk below the frost line, it will be difficult to dig fence post holes by hand if the ground is frozen. Also, special considerations are required when curing concrete during cold weather.
Safety Considerations
Always wear safety glasses and heavy gloves when working with chain link material. Be careful when tightening the chain link material from one post to the next post, as the come-along tool creates high tension.
If the tool or materials break, you may become injured.
Chain Link Fence Pros and Cons
Pros
Inexpensive compared to other types of fencing
Impervious to rot and rust
Allows a sightline for observation of children or pets
Requires almost no maintenance
Cons
No privacy unless additional covering added
Less desirable appearance
Not allowed in some communities
Adds little resale value to most properties (unless farmland or industrial)
Equipment / Tools
- Come-along tool with stretcher bar
- Ratchet wrench set
- Pliers
- Post hole digger
- Garden hose and water supply
- Trenching shovel
- Bubble post level
Materials
- 1 roll chain link fabric
- 2 terminal posts, each 6-foot
- 1 line post, 6-foot
- 1 top rail, 10-foot, 6 inches
- 2 tension bars
- 6 tension bands
- 1 bag tie wires, 30 count
- 2 terminal post caps
- 1 line post eye top
- 2 rail ends
- Tension wire
- 2 brace bands
- 4 bags quick-set concrete
- Wood stakes and twine
- Landscape gravel
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Mark Utilities
Call 811 at least two weeks in advance to give your local utility marking service enough time to show up your house to mark vital underground lines with temporary paint.
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Lay Fence Line
Drive wood stakes into the ground and run twine between the sticks to indicate the line of the fence. Drive a stake at each of the terminal post locations.
Tip
If you are laying out a corner, use the 3-4-5 method of squaring up corners. Measure 3 feet along one side, 4 feet along the other side, then measure the diagonal between the two to make a triangle. If the diagonal line is 5 feet, you have a square corner.
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Dig Terminal Post Holes
Use the post hole digger and narrow shovel to dig post holes for the terminal post. Depending on your area, the depth of the holes should be 30 inches and the width 8 inches.
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Set Terminal Posts
Fill the bottom of the terminal post with landscape gravel to about 6 inches. Attach the post level to the top of one of the terminal posts. Set the terminal post into the hole. Measure its height off of the ground. It should be 48 inches high.
Fill the hole with dry concrete. Add water to the concrete until it reaches the top of the concrete. Set the other terminal post 10 feet away. -
Set Line Posts
Run a taut line across the tops of the two terminal posts. Dig the hole for the line post. Add 6 inches of gravel, then place the line post into the hole. The line post should be 2 inches below the string. Add the post level to the line post and plumb it. Fill the hole with concrete, add water, then let the concrete cure.
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Install Hardware on Terminal Posts
Starting at the bottom and working upward, add:
- One brace band at the very bottom
- Three tension bands, spaced every foot
- Brace band at top with rail cup facing inward
- One post cap
Tighten all of the hardware with the ratchet wrench set. Repeat for the other terminal post.
-
Add Top Rail
Place the eye cap on the line post with the open circle facing toward the terminal post.
Slide the top rail through the eye cap. Fit one end of the top rail into the open cup section of the rail cap of one of the terminal posts. For the other terminal post, cut off the top rail with a hacksaw so that it will fit in the rail cap. With the ratchet set, tighten the rail caps on both terminal posts. Tip
Note that the top rail needs to be long enough to fit inside the second terminal post rail cap. So, add 1 1/2 inches or the appropriate length so that the rail will fit all of the way into the open cup section of the rail cup.
-
Add Bottom Tension Wire
Attach the tension wire to the brace band at the bottom of one of the terminal posts. Run the wire across to the other terminal post's brace band, add tension to it, then twist it into place. Cut off the excess wire.
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Lay out Chain Link Material
Unroll the chain link fence material next to the post. Slide a tension bar through the last row of diamonds at one end of the chain link.
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Attach One End of Chain Link Material
Lift up one end of the chain link material so that it is vertical and pressing against one of the terminal posts. With the ratchet wrench set, attach the end tension bar to the tension bands on the terminal post.
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Temporarily Attach Chain Link Material
Lift the rest of the chain link material up so that it is vertical all the way across from post to post. Loosely fix wire ties across the top to hold the chain link material on the top rail. Do not tighten the ties. The goal is to have ties that are loose enough to allow the chain link material to slide when you tighten it in later steps.
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Prepare to Tighten Chain Link Material
At the other end of the chain link, slide a tension bar vertically through the diamonds about 3 feet from the end. Add an extra tension band to the terminal post. This band will later be removed. Hook a stretcher bar to the tension bar.
Hook up the come-along tool from the tension bar to the extra tension band on the terminal post. -
Tighten Chain Link Material
Slowly pump the lever of the come-along tool to draw the end of the chain link material toward the terminal post. When it is tight enough, cut off the excess chain link material and remove the come-along tool, the temporary tension band, the temporary tension bar, and the stretcher bar.
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Add Last Tension Bar
Weave a tension bar through the last set of diamonds on the chain link material. With the ratchet wrench set, tighten the tension bar onto the post's tension bands.
-
Attach Wire Ties
Twist wire ties from the chain link to the posts at every 12 inches. Along the top rail, twist wire ties about every 2 feet along the entire run. Attach at the lower tension wire about every 2 feet, as well.
When to Call Professionals
Because building a chain link fence requires you to learn how to work with unusual tools and materials, it's sometimes best to call a professional fence company to install your fence.
Article Sources
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Rights and obligations of owners. California Legislative Information.
Tips for Installing a Chain Link Fence
It might sound intimidating. But with the right equipment, experience and help, you can install a chain link fence in a few days.
Installing a chain link fence on your property can provide security and safety for your kids, pets and equipment. But just like any DIY project, it will require careful planning and a fair amount of muscle to do correctly.
We’ve had some experience repairing and installing chain link fences. But we also called upon Vince Christofora, owner of Woodstock Hardware, to walk us through the process.
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Check Local Building Codes and Property Lines
Building codes vary among municipalities and towns, so check to see what’s required before you start your project.
Since you’ll be digging post holes, Christofora recommends calling 811 in your state so someone can come out and mark utility lines on your property. Make sure you’re absolutely sure about where your property lines start and end so you don’t accidentally dig in your neighbor’s yard.
Design and Layout Your Fence
To identify potential conflicts with landscaping or building structures, mark your fence line and the locations of the posts. This lets you know how much fencing you’ll need to purchase. Christofora recommends using spray paint to better visualize your future fence. The paint disappears the next time you mow your grass.
Determine the location and size of the gates. “On larger projects/longer fences you may want more gates to avoid long walks,” Christofora says. Also, remember large equipment like riding mowers or lawn tractors may need a double gate. Vehicle-wide gates can provide access to septic pump trucks.
Purchase Materials
You may need to buy tools as well as fencing.
“You might want to dig a few test holes to see what you will be up against when digging post holes,” Christofora says.
Besides pointed shovels, post-hole diggers and picks, rocky or hard soil may require rock bars or small jackhammers. You’ll need concrete mixing items like a wheelbarrow, mortar pans and mixing hoes, and installation tools like a level, a come-along, wire cutting pliers and locking pliers.
Dig and Install PostsThe posts anchor your fence. Once you’ve dug the holes and set them in the ground, secure the posts with concrete. In our experience, dig three times wider than the diameter of the post itself, and place one-third of the post underground. Posts need to be spaced evenly for aesthetic purposes, 4-10 feet apart.
Install Rails, Post Caps and Tension Bands
Once you’ve set the posts, add the tension bands that hold the fence to the end, corner and gate posts. Place a cap on the gates, corner and end posts, driving them in place with a mallet.
Then install the top rails through the caps.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, ensuring they’re oriented correctly. Then you won’t waste valuable time fixing them later on.
Roll Out and Attach Fence Material
Lay down your fence rolls — these are heavier than you might think — and unroll them along the length of the fence. While weaving it through the end of the fencing, slide the vertical tension bar through the tension bands. This will secure the fence to the end post and let you stretch the fence into place.
Pro tip: Wear a sturdy pair of work gloves to protect your fingers.
Tighten Fence Material
Chain-link fencing needs to be stretched taught or it’ll droop or sag. Using a come-along, pull the fence tight to eliminate any extra slack. Attach it to the end post with a tension bar. Christofora says this step requires a decent amount of muscle, so you’ll need a helper or two.
Step 8: Remove Excess Fencing
Any extra fence left over past the tension bar can be easily removed by unlooping the top and bottom weave and pulling the strand.
Then tighten the bolts on the tension bands and release the come-along.
Step 9: Tie Fencing to Rails
Separate aluminum wires called “tie wires” attach the fencing to the top rail of the fence. Slide the tie wire through a loop in the top of the fence link, around the rail and back around to the fence, tying it tightly in place. Place tie wires every 24 inches along the top rail.
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Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - how to install a chain-link fence yourself
More about chain-link fences. How to install a mesh fence yourself.
The simplest and most budgetary option for fencing a summer house, garden plot or private house is a do-it-yourself chain-link fence. To install such a fence, you do not need special tools. You can do all the work yourself, without involving assistants.
About chain-link fences
Chain-link is a mesh woven from pieces of wire in a spiral shape. Dimensions, shape and materials used comply with GOST 5336-80.
Mesh fabric is made with rhombic and square cells. A rhombic cell has an acute angle of a rhombus equal to 60 degrees, while a square cell has all angles of 90 degrees. The size of the cell side of the mesh fabric is from 5.0 to 100.0 mm.
Steel wire with a diameter of 1.2 to 5.0 mm is used as a semi-finished product for the mesh. It can be uncoated or galvanized carbon steel. Another type of woven mesh is a chain-link with a protective and decorative polymer coating. The mesh is sold in rolls, the length of the material in a roll is 10 m.
Purpose of mesh depending on the type of coating
- Uncoated mesh is usually used for the installation of temporary fences on construction sites. After installation, the grid almost immediately becomes covered with rust. The service life of such a fence is 10-12 years.
- Cloth with galvanization is used for fencing garden plots from summer cottages, building walking aviaries for poultry. The zinc layer reliably protects the metal from corrosion and moisture.
In this case, the protective coating is not decorative. The service life of fences of this type is 50-60 years. - Mesh with polymer coating has an aesthetic appearance, so it is most often used for fences of country houses. The protective and decorative coating has high mechanical strength, moisture resistance, resistance to seasonal temperature changes, retains its original color under direct sunlight. Service life - up to 70 years.
Mesh fence pros and cons
Mesh fence, like any other type of fence, has advantages and disadvantages.
Pros:
- Affordable price. A chain-link fence will cost much less than a profiled sheet or metal fence. A light translucent structure with zero windage does not need a massive foundation, which means you can save on materials.
- Protection. The grid is clearly visible, but at the same time it is an impenetrable obstacle for humans and animals.
- Environmentally friendly. The wire cloth freely transmits sunlight, does not interfere with natural air circulation.
This is very important for flowers and plants planted around the perimeter of the site. - Strength. The chain-link, made of structural steel, wins a lot in comparison with translucent fences made of wooden picket fence.
- Functionality. In addition to fencing, the mesh can act as a support for weaving ornamental plants, flowers, grapes.
- Durability. Materials for the construction of the fence have high strength, resistance to mechanical deformation. With proper installation, such a fence will last at least 50 years.
The advantages of this type of fencing include simple and quick installation. A mesh fence without welding can be delivered in 1-2 days. The time required to install the posts and install the grid depends on the total length of the fence, its height, and the type of foundation.
Cons:
- Transparency. The mesh fence does not hide the private area from prying eyes.
- Unaesthetic appearance. Netting fences are not considered "prestigious".
Despite this, the mesh fence looks neat and performs its functions 100% - it protects the site from penetration from the outside, creates conditions favorable for the normal growth of plants.
How to close a chain-link fence from neighbors
- Hedge. Evergreen weaving plants can be planted parallel to the fence line. It is better to choose perennials - honeysuckle, clematis, spindle tree, ivy.
- Camouflage and covering materials. Shading and camouflage nets, reed or bamboo mats are pulled onto the chain-link. The fence with an artificial "hedge" looks very beautiful. Plus, you have to wait for it to grow.
- Polycarbonate. The fence section facing the front side can be covered with opaque or translucent polycarbonate.
Types of mesh fences
There are several types of chain-link fence designs. The most common are rolled, sectional, on a metal frame.
Roll-up
Roll-up fencing has a simple design.
It consists of supports with hooks and a mesh fabric stretched between them. Temporary fences are installed using the “pull-in” method. Without additional support, the metal mesh eventually loses its shape, sags under its own weight.
To prevent the mesh from sagging, a broach is made - a reinforcing bar is passed through the mesh cells horizontally, and its ends are welded to the supports on both sides of the span. Reinforcement, located along the upper edge of the grid, strengthens and reinforces the structure. To make the fence even more rigid and durable, the broach is done in two rows. To do this, use 2 reinforcement for each span. One is installed on the top of the grid, the second - 25-30 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas.
Sectional
This fence has a more reliable and durable design. The pillars form the basis of the fence. The space between them is filled with finished sections.
Mounting strips are welded onto the poles - one from above, the other from below.
Frames for sections are welded from a professional pipe or a steel corner. The mesh is cut into segments according to the size of the frames, the edges of the wire are bent along the top and bottom. Along the perimeter of the segments, wire rod or metal rods are threaded through the cells and welded at the junction points in the corners of the web. On the reverse side of the frames around the perimeter, hooks are welded in increments of 20-30 cm. The sections are filled with the prepared mesh - they are stretched and the broaches are fixed on the hooks. Sections are welded to the posts on mounting strips. Frames and poles with mounting strips are coated with primer enamel and painted.
Sectional chain-link fences are placed on metal supports with concrete, on a strip foundation with brick pillars, as well as on pillars lined with decorative or natural stone.
Chain-link fence on poles
Fences of this type have a simpler design than sectional fences. The design consists of a supporting frame and mesh.
It can be installed without welding.
The supporting frame is made from a profile pipe. The connection of the supports and the log is carried out using X-brackets, which are attached to the poles with screws. The rolled mesh is fixed to the supports and lags with fixing metal clamps.
Since welding is not used to mount this fence, you can take a galvanized or polymer-coated corrugated pipe and the same brackets to mount the frame. Such a fence will not need to be painted every year. A layer of zinc and powder paint protects the metal from corrosion. The coating does not change its properties during the entire service life.
Installing a chain-link fence
Materials for mounting the fence:
- A corrugated pipe is used for the frame - for posts 60x60x3 mm, for horizontal logs 40x20x2 mm. If possible, it is best to take galvanized or polymer-coated pipes.
- To fill the spans, you need a mesh in rolls, galvanized or PVC. The standard mesh width is from 1.
0 to 3.0 m in 0.5 m increments. The best option is a mesh 1.5 or 2.0 m wide with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm. - X-brackets are required to mount rails to poles - 2 for each pole. For mounting the grid and assembling the frame, you will need metal clamps, screws or metal screws.
- To fill the foundation you need sand, cement, small gravel.
To install a fence without welding, we need to draw a schematic drawing of the structure. So it will be much easier to calculate how many pillars, logs, fasteners and grids will be needed.
- Pillars are installed in 2 m increments. For example, if we have a plot of 6 acres with sides of 20x30 m, then its perimeter will be 100 m, which means 50 poles will be required. If a plot of the same area has sides of 17x35 m, then its perimeter will be 104 meters, respectively, the number of pillars is increased by 2 pcs.
- With a mesh width of 1.5 m, the height of the fence will be 1.6 m, with a width of 2 m - 2.
1 m. This is due to the fact that the mesh is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from the soil. - The length of the support consists of the above and below ground parts. For a mesh fence with low windage, the depth of immersion of the support into the ground is 1/3 of the total height. So for a fence with a height of 1.6 m, supports with a length of 2.4 m are needed.
- The mesh comes in rolls of 10 m, which means that to enclose a site with sides of 20x30 m and a perimeter of 100 m, 10 rolls will be required.
- The number of hardware for brackets depends on their design and the number of attachment points, but not less than 4 pcs.
- Clamps are placed at a distance of 25-30 mm from each other along the logs and supports. In total, it turns out 200 meters of running logs and 75 meters of supports, or rather their ground part. To install the mesh without welding, 916 clamps are required. As clamps, you can use a knitting wire. Installation of fasteners is carried out using special devices - clamps.
The sequence of works for installing a chain-link fence:
- Preparation. Along the perimeter of the site, everything that can interfere with work is removed - construction debris, tall grass, shrubs.
- Marking. Pegs are driven in along the border of the site, a construction cord is pulled between them.
- Installation of supports. According to the marking, every 2 m they dig holes with a pit drill. A layer of sand and gravel 10 cm thick is poured at the bottom of each pit. A support is installed exactly in the middle of the pit, leveled with a plumb line or level, fixed with spacers and the pit is poured with concrete.
- Mounting log. After the concrete has set, brackets are screwed onto the supports, and logs are attached to them, in turn.
- Mesh installation. The canvas is stretched between the supports, sequentially screwed to the crossbars and supports with wire clamps, so as to avoid sagging.
Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - recommendations from TC Gazmetallproekt
Chain-link fence - a practical and inexpensive fence for a summer cottage.
It allows you to mark the boundaries of the territory, protect it from outside penetration, and also does not create a shadow for cultivated plants. They will receive enough sunlight, and this will help to get a good harvest every year. The chain-link mesh can be used not only for the garden, but also for the construction of pens for farm animals. It is also used for fencing sports and playgrounds, recreation areas and more. It is a practical universal material, easy to use.
What are the advantages of a chain-link fence?
Chain-link mesh is a roll material consisting of interlaced metal spirals. It has a sufficiently high strength, with its help you can install a reliable and durable fence for a garden plot or other area.
It is worth choosing this particular material for building a fence for several reasons:
- Reliability. It is difficult to climb over such a fence, it will protect the site from the intrusion of outsiders. It will also become a strong barrier for animals that will not be able to leave the fenced paddock.
- Light transmission. Profiled sheet and other solid materials isolate the site from prying eyes, but they create a shadow that will interfere with cultivated plants. The grid will be the best option for those who want to get a good harvest.
- Long term use. The steel mesh is additionally coated with a layer of zinc to resist corrosion. Galvanized material is able to serve up to 50 years, it does not rust or deteriorate under the influence of street precipitation.
- Easy installation. Mounting a chain-link fence is easy even for non-specialists.
All these advantages have made it a widely used solution for suburban areas. It is convenient to install mesh fences between plots in summer cottages: they delimit territories, but do not block sunlight.
The main types of chain-link mesh
This material is the most widely used: it is suitable for use in any climatic zone, the mesh is used on a variety of objects. Manufacturers produce several varieties, the right choice will make the design the most durable.
On sale you can find the following options:
- Non-galvanized mesh. It is cheap, but it does not have anti-corrosion protection. For it to last a long time, it will require additional staining.
- Galvanized mesh. The zinc layer reliably protects the steel from corrosion, the metal is not afraid of any atmospheric influences.
- Mesh with a polymer coating, it is also called plasticized. Staining with special materials provides it with resistance to weather vagaries, and also improves the appearance. The polymer coating can be of any color, such a fence will look beautiful. The protective paint layer will be durable enough, it will not have to be updated frequently.
The choice depends on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the land owner. However, it should be noted that a cheap mesh without a protective coating will still require additional expenses for regular staining. It is safer to immediately take care of its protection and get rid of unnecessary trouble.
How to build a chain-link fence?
One of the advantages of this material is the ability to install the fence without the use of welding - you do not have to look for a welding machine and a qualified welder. Before installing the fence, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the territory in order to calculate the required amount of mesh. You will also need to prepare support pillars for the fence - they can be wooden, concrete or metal. The grid is attached to the posts with the help of special mounting hooks - you need to buy them in sufficient quantities.
For the installation and concreting of the supporting pillars, sand, crushed stone and cement are required - they are used to prepare the concrete solution. Of the tools, the master will need a building level, a shovel, fasteners, as well as a hammer or drill to install them.
Step-by-step instructions for building a fence
The simplest design is a tension fence, consisting of support posts and a chain-link mesh stretched between them.
Its construction consists of the following main stages:
- Preliminary clearing of the territory. The perimeter must be freed from bushes, large stones and other possible obstacles for fencing.
- Marking the perimeter to determine the future position of the posts. The optimal distance between them should be 2-2.5 meters, this will avoid sagging and deformation of the mesh. To mark the perimeter, you can use wooden pegs: they are installed in the places of the future installation of support pillars, a string is pulled between them.
- Preparation of holes for poles. In the places of their future placement, pits are dug at least 50-60 centimeters deep. At the bottom of the pits, a sand and gravel mixture is poured. This support cushion increases the strength of the installation.
- Anti-corrosion treatment of poles. Since they are installed in the ground, care must be taken to protect them from destruction. The wood is covered with an antiseptic and a primer, metal poles are painted with a special coating to resist corrosion.
- Installation of supporting posts. A concrete solution is prepared, the pillars are installed in the pits and poured with concrete. With the help of the building level, they need to ensure a strictly vertical arrangement, perpendicular to the ground level. The installed pillars are temporarily fixed with struts in a vertical position until the final solidification of the concrete solution.
- Installation of support elements. After the final fastening of the pillars, fasteners are driven into or screwed into them for mounting the chain-link mesh. It can be both special hooks and ordinary metal bolts. To protect against corrosion, it is better to use galvanized fasteners.
- Net attachment. So that they do not deform, reinforcing bars are inserted into the mesh at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the edge. Nets are suspended from poles with hooks or bolts. The fence can be considered ready, the fence will be strong enough and durable.
An additional step is the improvement of the fence.
