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Cut flowers garden


24 Best Cutting Garden Flowers

These vase-worthy flowering bulbs, annuals, and perennials will give you a bumper crop of blooms from spring all the way through fall. By Anne Balogh

The saying “I’d rather have roses on my table than diamonds on my neck” sums up how many people feel about the simple pleasures of a vase of freshly cut flowers. Whether they are roses or another type of bloom, nothing brings more sparkle to a room than a bouquet of flowers harvested from your own backyard.

A cutting garden doesn’t have to be large to keep your vases full all season long. Even a small bed strategically planted with a variety of spring- and summer-blooming bulbs, brightly colored annuals, and a few long-blooming perennials and shrubs can yield a bountiful supply of homegrown bouquets.

Read more: How to Create a Cut Flower Garden.

On this page: Cut Garden Flowers | Tips for Keeping Cut Flowers Fresh

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CUT GARDEN FLOWERS A TO Z

'Grape Crush' New England aster. Photo by: Proven Winners.

ASTER (

Symphotrichum and Aster)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-8/> Bloom time: August through October
Height/Spread: 1 to 6 feet tall, 1 to 3 feet wide

These easy-to-grow, late-season bloomers are a wonderful choice for fall bouquets, especially taller varieties whose long stems are ideal for cutting. For the longest vase life, harvest asters once the flowers have fully opened. To encourage the growth of more blooms, pinch back the stems several times before mid-July.

Learn more about growing asters.

Pictured: 'Grape Crush' aster from Proven Winners.

Photo by: darkmoon1968 / Pixabay

BLACK-EYED SUSAN (

Rudbeckia spp.)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-9/> Bloom time: Midsummer until frost
Height: From 10 inches to 7 feet tall, depending on the cultivar

These prolific native wildflowers bloom in abundance from midsummer through autumn in cheery shades of yellow, orange, and gold. Like most wildflowers, they are also drought tolerant and low maintenance. For the longest vase life, cut when the petals have unfurled but before the tiny disk flowers have opened.

Learn more about growing black-eyed Susan.

'Kobold' blazing star. Photo by: Proven Winners.

BLAZING STAR (

Liatris spicata)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-9/> Bloom time: Mid to late summer
Height: 1 to 5 feet tall

Blazing star’s fuzzy florets of bright purple or white flowers bloom from the top down on unbranched stems, giving them a unique bottlebrush effect that provides vertical interest in fresh or dried flower arrangements. Because of its slender, upright form, blazing star also takes up minimal space, making it a good choice for smaller cutting gardens.

Learn more about growing blazing star.

Pictured: 'Kobold' blazing star from Proven Winners.

Intenz Lipstick celosia. Photo by: Proven Winners.

CELOSIA (

Celosia spp.)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time: Summer through fall
Height/Spread: 1 to 3 feet tall, 6 to 18 inches wide

A longtime favorite for cutting, these heat-loving flowers come in a variety of eye-catching forms ranging from feathery plumes to crested cockscombs, in vibrant shades of red, orange, yellow, and pink. Freshly cut flowers will last as long as two weeks in a vase or can be dried for other ornamental uses.

Color Coded™ ‘Yellow My Darling’ coneflower. Photo by: Proven Winners.

CONEFLOWER (

Echinacea spp.)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-9/> Bloom time: Summer to early fall
Height: 1 to 4 feet tall, up to 2 feet wide

With their long stems and large daisy-like blooms, coneflowers are ideal for adding height and bright color to a mixed bouquet. Even the spiky orange centers, with the petals removed, can be used as interesting accents in floral arrangements. By planting early- and late-blooming varieties, you can harvest flowers for cutting for up to five months.

Learn more about growing coneflower.

Pictured: Color Coded™ ‘Yellow My Darling’ coneflower from Proven Winners.

Photo by: Janet Loughrey.

COSMOS (

Cosmos bipinnatus)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time: Midsummer until frost
Height/Spread: 1 to 6 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide

The cheerful daisy-like flowers of this cottage garden favorite bloom prolifically all summer long, with one plant producing dozens of flowers. In fact, the more you pick of this cut-and-come-again flower, the more it blooms, giving you an ample supply for all your summer bouquets. Both single- and double-flowered types are available, in shades of crimson, rose, pink, lavender, and white.

Photo by: Roger Foley.

DAFFODIL (

Narcissus spp.)

Plant type: Bulb/> Zones: Typically 4-8, but may vary/> Bloom time: Early to late spring
Height: 6 to 30 inches, depending on variety

One of the first flowers to bloom in spring, with thousands of varieties to choose from. Although long-stemmed varieties are perfect for traditional floral arrangements, a few vases of miniature daffodils can make a charming spring display. For the longest vase life, take your cuttings before the flowers have fully opened.

Learn more about growing daffodil flowers.

Dalina® Grande Tequila. Photo by: Proven Winners.

DAHLIA (

Dahlia spp. and hybrids)

Plant type: Tuber/> Zones: 7-10/> Bloom time: Midsummer until frost
Height/spread: 1 to 6 feet tall, 1 to 3 feet wide

These tried-and-true garden performers come in a dizzying array of colors and sizes, and just a few plants will give you armloads of blooms. Since dahlias don't open much after they’ve been harvested, wait to pick the flowers when they are at their prime. For the best flower production, pinch or cut back your plants early on—when they are about 8 to 12 inches tall—to encourage the growth of multiple stems.

Learn more about growing dahlias.

Pictured: Dalina® Grande Tequila from Proven Winners.

New Millennium™ Pink Punch. Photo by: Proven Winners.

DELPHINIUM (

Delphinium hybrids)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-7/> Bloom time: Early to midsummer
Height/spread: 2 to 6 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide

The glorious spikes of delphinium bring stature and elegance to flower arrangements because of their striking colors and upright form. To get a second bloom from your plants in late summer or early fall, cut the stalks back immediately after flowering.

Learn more about growing delphinuim.

Pictured: New Millennium™ Pink Punch from Proven Winners.

Artist® Blue. Photo by: Proven Winners.

FLOSS FLOWER (

Ageratum)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time: Late spring until frost
Height/spread: 4 to 36 inches tall, 6 to 18 inches wide

Fluffy pompom-like blooms in soft shades of blue, purple, or pink make outstanding cut flowers because of their unique form and wonderful fragrance. Newer varieties with longer stems are perfect for picking, giving you blooms that will last more than a week in a vase.

Learn more about growing floss flower.

Pictured: Artist® Blue from Proven Winners.

'Priscilla' gladiolus. Photo by: Shannon Marie Ferguson.

GLADIOLUS (

Gladiolus x hortulanus)

Plant type: Corm/> Zones: 8-10/> Bloom time: Early summer to frost
Height: 2 to 5 feet

Nothing is more dramatic in a summer bouquet than the bold spikes of freshly cut garden glads. This cutting garden favorite is not only easy to grow, it also takes up very little space when planted in long rows. And because the corms are inexpensive, you can grow them as annuals and plant different colors and varieties each year. The best time to cut glads is when one or two of the lower buds have opened fully. The remaining buds will open when the spike is placed in water.

Learn more about growing gladiolus.

'Beverly Sills' iris. Photo by: Garden World Images, Ltd. / Alamy Stock Photo.

IRIS (

Iris germanica)

Plant type: Rhizome/> Bloom time:Spring to summer
Height/spread: 1 to 4 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide

The exotic blooms of the iris come in nearly every color of the rainbow, and by planting varieties with different bloom times, you extend the harvest for many weeks. For the longest vase life, cut the flowers when the first bloom on each stalk begins to unfurl. Because the buds on each stem open in succession, the younger buds will open as older flowers fade.

Learn more about growing iris.

Photo by: ESB Essentials / Shutterstock

MARIGOLD (

Tagetes spp.)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time:Late spring until frost
Height/spread: 6 inches to 4 feet tall, 6 inches to 2 feet wide

Marigolds and other flowers in shades of orange and yellow are especially striking when mixed with blue or purple flowers in summer and fall bouquets, such as salvia and blazing star. To save garden space, you can also interplant marigolds in your vegetable patch to help repel unwanted pests.

Learn more about growing marigolds.

'Millennium' allium. Photo by: Proven Winners.

ORNAMENTAL ONION (

Allium spp.)

Plant type: Bulb/> Zones: 3-8/> Bloom time: Early summer
Height/spread: 1 to 3 feet tall, 3 to 18 inches wide

With their stiff, leafless stems and spherical lollipop-like blooms, alliums of all types are dramatic-looking cut flowers and are often used to add wow-factor to mixed bouquets. Because they belong to the onion family, alliums may give off a pungent aroma, especially when first cut. To minimize the smell, change the vase water frequently and avoid crushing or damaging the stems.

Learn more about growing ornamental onion plants.

Pictured: Millennium ornamental onion from Proven Winners.

Photo by: PaylessImages / 123RF.

PEONY (

Paeonia spp.)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 2-8/> Bloom time: May to June
Height/spread: 1 to 3 feet tall and wide

Peonies are one of the most popular cut flowers because of their large, billowy blooms and remarkable range of colors and forms. For the best vase life, harvest the flowers when the buds are somewhat closed but soft, like a marshmallow. You can even store your cut blooms in the refrigerator for display later if you have an over-abundance (see these peony storage tips from Michigan State University Extension).

Learn more about growing peonies.

Photo by: Hong Vo / Shutterstock.

RANUNCULUS (

Ranunculus asiaticus)

Plant type: Tuber/> Zones: 8-11, can be grown as an annual in cooler climates/> Bloom time: Early spring to summer
Height: Up to 2 feet

These show-stopping spring bloomers (also called Persian buttercups) have long been a favorite of commercial florists because of their brilliantly colored rose-like flowers and long vase life. Because of their early bloom time, they are a great alternative to roses or peonies in spring bouquets.

Learn more about growing ranunculus.

Oso Easy Double Red™ rose. Photo by: Proven Winners.

ROSE (

Rosa spp.)

Plant type: Shrub/> Zones: Typically 4-11, but can vary/> Bloom time: Spring through summer
Height/spread: 1 to 12 feet tall, 1 to 15 feet wide

With their showy blooms and intoxicating scent, roses are even more heavenly indoors in a vase than they are in the garden. Varieties with long stems and large fragrant blooms, such as hybrid tea roses, often make the best cut flowers, but even miniature roses look charming when tucked into small bouquets.

Learn more about the best types of roses for your garden.

Pictured: Oso Easy Double Red™ rose from Proven Winners.

Color Spires® 'Violet Riot' salvia. Photo by: Proven Winners.

SALVIA (

Salvia spp.)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 5-9/> Bloom time: Late spring until frost
Height/spread: 1 to 6 feet tall and wide

Salvia (ornamental sage) is a must in the cutting garden because of its long bloom time, aromatic foliage, and spiky purple flowers. As a bonus, you can also dry the leaves to add to potpourri.

Learn more about growing salvia plants.

Pictured: Color Spires® 'Violet Riot' from Proven Winners.

Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® Shasta daisy. Photo by: Proven Winners.

SHASTA DAISY (

Leucanthemum superbum)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 5-9/> Bloom time: Early summer to fall
Height/spread: 6 to 48 inches tall, 10 to 24 inches wide

All types of Shasta daisies are excellent additions to summer bouquets because of their strong stems and bright, cheery blooms. In addition to the classic single-petaled form, you can also find double, quilled, and fringed types, some even sporting yellow petals.

Learn more about growing Shasta daisies.

Pictured: Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® from Proven Winners.

Photo by: All America Selections

SUNFLOWER (

Helianthus spp.)

Plant type: Annual or perennial/> Zones: 4-8 for perennial varieties/> Bloom time: Summer through fall
Height/spread: Up to 16 feet tall

Sunflowers are often the superstars of late summer and fall flower arrangements. In addition to the classic bright yellow blooms, you’ll also find varieties with deep red petals, fuzzy double yellow flowers, and white petals with chocolaty brown centers. Varieties with large flower heads look great gathered together in large bunches, while those with smaller blooms work nicely in mixed bouquets.

Learn more about growing sunflowers.

Photo by: Katherine Anderson.

SWEET PEA (

Lathyrus odorata)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time: Early spring to early summer
Height: Climbs to 6 feet when trained on stakes or a trellis

Dainty ruffled flowers in a wide range of colors have an irresistible scent of honey and orange blossoms. In Zone 7 and above, sow seeds in late fall for early spring blooms. In colder climates, sow in early spring. To get the longest season of production from your sweet pea plants, do not let the flowers go to seed. Cut them regularly to keep the blooms coming.

Learn more about growing and arranging sweet peas.

Photo by: Hudson Valley Seed Library.

TULIP (

Tulipa spp.)

Plant type: Bulb/> Bloom time: Early to late spring
Height: 6 to 24 inches tall

With their tall, elegant stems and velvety petals, tulips are the quintessential flower in spring bouquets. For the most riveting displays, grow multicolored forms, such as the breathtaking parrot tulip, or blend varieties that bloom in complementary colors. When kept out of direct sunlight, heat, and drafts, a bunch of freshly cut tulips will last at least a week in a vase.

Learn more about growing tulips.

'Firefly Sunshine' yarrow. Photo by: Proven Winners.

YARROW (

Achillea spp.)

Plant type: Perennial/> Zones: 3-9/> Bloom time: Early summer to early fall
Height/spread: 1 to 4 feet tall, 1 to 3 feet wide

The broad, flat-topped flowers clusters of yarrow are particularly well-suited for layering or stacking in floral arrangements or to add a horizontal component to offset vertical design elements. They have a great vase life, too, lasting well over a week when harvested at their peak. Also save a few clippings for use in dried floral arrangements by hanging them in bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.

Learn more about growing yarrow plants.

Pictured: 'Firefly Sunshine' from Proven Winners.

'Queeny Lime Orange' zinnia. Photo by: All America Selections.

ZINNIA (

Zinnia spp.)

Plant type: Annual/> Bloom time: Late spring until frost
Height/spread: 1 to 4 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide

One of the best cut-and-come-again flowers, offering great variety in color and form. Once they get established and start growing, these amazing plants will keep on producing nonstop if you harvest the blooms regularly. Be sure to cut the stems just above the leaf nodes because this is where new growth and flowers will form.

Learn more about growing zinnias.

For more: See this Cut Flower Guide for Shrubs from Proven Winners.

TIPS FOR KEEPING CUT FLOWERS FRESH

Harvest during the coolest part of the day. The best time to cut your flowers is early in the morning or late in the evening rather than during the heat of midday, when water loss due to transpiration is much greater. This will help them recover faster because they won’t be wilted, parched, and thirsty.

Don't let the stems dry out. Cut flowers rely on healthy stems to bring them water, so it’s important to keep them fresh. Carry a bucket of cool, clean water with you to the cutting garden at harvest time to plunge the stems into so they don’t dry out before you place your flowers in a vase. Clipping the stems at an angle with a sharp pruner and recutting them underwater will also facilitate water uptake.

Strip away lower foliage. Remove any leaves at the base of the stem that might rest below the waterline of the vase. Any foliage sitting in the water will rot and lead to bacterial growth, which will significantly decrease the life of your freshly cut flowers.

Use clean containers. Another way to minimize bacteria in the water is to sanitize your vase or container before filling it. Don’t use anything that isn’t clean enough to drink from.

Change the water often. Refreshing the water in your vase every few days is the best way to keep your cut flowers vibrant longer. This is also a good opportunity to remove withering foliage and flowers and to recut the stems so they will continue to take up water. Another tip: Your cut flowers will absorb water more efficiently if it’s lukewarm (about 100° F) rather than ice cold. That’s because the molecules in warm water move faster and speed water uptake.

Use a floral preservative. Those packets of powdered preservative you get from the florist, which are typically a blend of sugars and bacteria inhibitors, can be quite effective at lengthening the life of your bouquets. But you can also make your own preservative using common household products. Try this homemade preservative recipe from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

Place your cut flowers in a cool spot. To extend the life of your blooms, keep your floral arrangements in a cool location away from direct sunlight, especially during the summertime. Also consider refrigerating your cut flowers overnight, as many florists do, to slow down water loss and keep the flowers looking crisp and fresh.

RELATED:
Backyard Landscaping

Planning a cut flower garden: plus the flowers to grow

(Image credit: Future)

Many of us dream of planning a cut flower garden in our own backyards, having fallen in love with the idea of strolling down the garden to harvest a horde of richly colored blooms that we can then proudly display in our homes.

Thankfully, it's really easy to plan a cut flower garden as part of your flower bed ideas. All you need is an empty plot of ground and a packet of seeds.

‘Growing a cut flower garden is a much more sustainable way of growing flowers for arranging in your home and avoids buying ones that have been flown halfway across the world. Intersperse flowers you wish to use for cutting with shrubs and herbaceous perennials,' explains Amelia Bouquet who trained in garden design at the English Gardening School .

Just remember, everyone’s cutting garden is different, so pick the right flowers for you and your garden  – and make sure they keep coming. 

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Planning a cut flower garden: 

Before you get caught up in the blooms that you're going to plant, you must first consider the practical elements of planning a cut flower garden – namely it's size, shape and position. Knowing how to plant a flower bed is also useful in planning a cut flower garden as this will help you design a space in which the flowers can thrive. 

(Image credit: Salsabil Morrison)

How do you map a cut flower garden?

The easiest way to map a cut flower garden is on paper. Pick your position and then draw out a scale replica of your garden including your new addition. This will help you to visualize how your cut flower garden will work in the space and also help you avoid issues once you start building.  

One key consideration when planning a cut flower garden is accessibility so factor in lots of garden path ideas and ensure that your compost heap and water supply are  nearby, too. 

Unlike traditional garden ideas, you need to be able to easily access all the plants and flowers for cutting. Therefore, it is a good idea to opt for a long thin design where possible, rather than a thick bed. Also ensure you can completely walk around the bed to enable you to easily take flowers from all sides.

'One of the main rules would be to account for ample direct sun light, the most flashy flowers are usually those from perennials that receive a lot of sunlight,' recommends landscape designer Jonathan Fargion . 'Once you have established a sunny location, you might still want to grow something that does well in shade. Here, you can strategize to use the taller plants so that they cast shadow onto the more shady ones. For constant ample light plan rows in direction east to west, if you want to cast shades, plant in rows in direction north to south. '

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

How much space do you need for a cut flower garden?

There are no rules on the amount of space you need for a cut flower garden, however, if you pick a spot with the potential of expansion, this will avoid any regrets further down the line. 

'The amount of space you need depends on the type of plants. Spacing should be calculated from the center of the plant. If you buy them in pots, think of the center of the pot as a point of reference. And always account for its mature size. Perennials can take about 18 inches from center, while a shrub like hydrangea takes more space (things can always be controlled through pruning). As a rule of thumb I'd space the perennials at 12 inches from the center and shrubs 24 inches from center, planted in rows that are 24 inches apart, to have space to attend the plants,' advises Jonathan Fargion.

If you are looking to add a cutting garden to your small garden ideas, then create a perennial cut flower bed within your existing borders. ‘It means you don’t have to section off areas of ground when space is already tight,’ adds Amelia Bouquet .  

The general rule for cut flower gardens is to grow the plants in lines, which requires lots of space. Instead combine cutting flowers in looser groups amongst other planting. Choose flowers that multitask, looking good in both garden borders and indoor arrangements. 

(Image credit: Salsabil Morrison)

How deep should flower beds be?

'If you are limited with space, I'd suggest at least 18 inches of soil depth,' recommends Jonathan Fargion. However, deeper is always better. If you are concerned about the quality and depth of your soil, consider raised garden bed ideas for your cut flower garden. These will also give you total control over the quality of the soil types and soil health, thus increasing the health and productivity of your plants. 

If you've not already added raised beds to your garden, learning how to build a raised garden bed will get you started.

(Image credit: Alamy)

How to start a cut flower garden

Once you've finished planning a cut flower garden, it's time to make it a reality. Mark out your beds and lift the turf. If you are using raised beds, these will need to be built. 

The next step is to 'get rid of weeds, add in organic matter and rake the soil to a fine tilth. You may like to use a Mypex weed control mat to prepare a sterile weed-free seed bed,' advises H&G garden expert Leigh Clapp.

Then comes the long anticipated planting. 'Plant flowers close together or put in supports ready to stop tall plants flopping over as they grow. Combine plants of similar heights, growing conditions and flowering times, including both focal flowers and fillers. For a year-round successional supply you could have options such as hellebores, spring bulbs, aquilegia, wallflowers, pinks, Sweet William, peonies, alstroemeria, sunflowers, dahlias, asters, chrysanthemums, kniphofias and daphne in winter. Include an abundant medley of self-replenishing, cut-and-come-again varieties, such as cosmos, zinnias, scabious and sweet peas, which will produce more flowers after cutting.

'Always plant more foliage and fillers than you think you will need, as using plenty of greenery in your arrangements will make them look more natural and rustic,' adds Leigh.

(Image credit: Salsabil Morrison)

What flowers to grow in a cut flower garden

The key to a productive cutting garden is to choose plants with many flowers that bloom for a long period of time. 

These are some of the best flowers to grow for a cut flower garden:

Vibrant orange Mexican sunflowers and crocosmia are combined with magenta cosmos and pale mauve scabious for a profusion of contrasting color that looks good both indoors and out

(Image credit: Selina Lake)

‘My favorites are sweet peas, dahlias, Mexican sunflowers and cosmos,’ says stylist Selina Lake , whose new book Shed Style is out now. ‘These are great choices as picking the flowers regularly encourages more flowers to bloom, giving you a constant supply for cutting.’ 

Choose plants in color combinations you find appealing. ‘I like to mix vibrant pink cosmos and dahlias, and dusky pink zinnias with pops of orange from Mexican sunflowers and crocosmia for colorful late summer arrangements.’  You can try collecting seeds from some flowers you have grown to increase the stock for your cutting garden for free – just ensure they are not hybrids as these may not come true from seed.

Your plot needs to be in full sun and as your plants grow you may need to add stakes and supports to keep the blooms upright. Growing a cut flower garden is also a great project to do when gardening with children.

(Image credit: Selina Lake)

Every cutting garden needs roses. ‘I find that ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ and ‘Constance Spry’, with their highly scented pink rosettes, work well with a few stems of nigella, whose lime-green feathery leaves top the purply-blue flower like the ring-setting for a glamorous jewel,’ says Jane Cumberbatch, author of Pure Style in the Garden .  

‘The pink/ blue/lime-green combination is a favorite. I don’t usually go for elaborate vases and containers. A simple, utilitarian look tends to be my choice: glass jam jars, rounded pudding basins, enamelled jugs.’ 

Constance Spry roses: a mass of pink, scented blooms to be enjoyed fleetingly as it flowers only once a year

(Image credit: Pure Style in the Garden by Jane Cumberbatch (Pimpernel Press))

Keep flowers coming with successional planting

‘Think in terms of successional flowering too,’ says Carien van Boxtel, who designed a cut flower garden for 2021's RHS Hampton Court Flower Show. ‘Use space as economically as possible, with one bed for multiple crops. Once spring bulbs have finished flowering, replace them with plants grown from seed, like cosmos and sweet peas.’  If you're unsure where to start, these succession planting tips will help to get you started.

For a regular supply of blooms, ensure you deadhead throughout the season. Pinch off the finished flower, just below where the base of the flower joins the stem.

Growing foliage for flower arrangements

Euphorbia oblongata

(Image credit: Future/Rebecca Pow)

Foliage works the same way in the garden as in arrangements. When planning a cut flower garden, use it as a filler and to add interesting architectural shapes. The idea is to make your design as three-dimensional as possible. 

‘The more leafy stuff you use, the more your arrangement will look nicely home-made rather than florist-bought,’ says plant expert Sarah Raven . 

‘For primary foliage, I often use euphorbia oblongata. It's brilliant acid-green color adds brightness and contrast, and it’s one of the best foliage plants because it has a robust, upstanding structure. It also has thin stems but a generous horizontal top, so you don’t need huge quantities to create the right effect.’ 

You can also achieve this with interesting grasses or seed pods, or vertical leaf spikes such as Bells of Ireland.  

Every cut flower plot should have dahlias, cosmos, scabious, sweet peas and calendula as they will keep on giving you flowers

(Image credit: Carien von Boxtel)

Cutting garden flowers for a sunny garden

(Image credit: Selina Lake)

Try tall and airy verbena bonariensis for graceful structure. Long flowering coreopsis adds a punchy pop of sunshine color, while phlox paniculata has clusters of gorgeous fragrant flowers. Floaty silk-petalled cosmos add an ethereal touch and the tall spires of erysimum bring masses of mauve flowers to the mix. Combine these to create a naturalistic arrangement. 

‘Fill out your vase with stems of pittosporum, perfect for providing limitless foliage to use as a backdrop for brighter colors, plus a great filler shrub for sunny borders,’ says garden designer Amelia Bouquet.

Sweet peas are the perfect choice for a container. They are an abundant source of cut flowers and come in an array of pretty colors.  

Cutting garden flowers for a shady garden

(Image credit: Amelia Bouquet Garden Design)

During the summer months, astilbe is the star of the cutting garden with its elegant plumes of feathery flowers and attractive ferny foliage, while starry shaped astrantia blooms are perfect for creating lacy drifts. 

‘Both are striking plants that love a shady dappled spot and look equally good in the vase,’ says Amelia Bouquet. 

Alchemilla mollis is one of the prettiest foliage plants around. The velvety soft fan-shaped leaves add a pretty effect and can be used to introduce detail to a delicate arrangement too. For containers, try orange calendula (marigolds) for a stunning display. They will tolerate shady conditions, and make excellent cut flowers for arrangements too. 

Harvesting cutting garden flowers – the right way 

(Image credit: Carien von Boxtel)

Cut your flowers when they’re about to show some color. For best results, collect cut flowers early in the morning when their stems are fully turgid (filled with water) and avoid picking them if it’s hot or sunny. Put the stems straight into a bucket of water before arranging. 

Many annuals, such as sweet peas, as well as some perennials will bloom over a longer period if picked regularly. Follow the stem you want to pick until you reach the main stem and cut at this intersection. Do not leave parts of the stem behind. 

Multiply your stock by collecting seed. Wait until a dry day towards the end of summer, pick the dry seeds of a healthy plant. Shake the stem to let the seeds fall in a container or put a paper bag around the seed head and cut the stem. Hang it upside down to dry. Don’t forget to label when dry.

How to care for a cut flower garden

'A cutting garden is for harvesting; so don’t expect it to look pristine at all times. Deadhead and cut flowers regularly and keep up the weeding and watering. When watering, don’t shower plants from overhead, but water carefully with a steady
jet flow at the base of the plant. The best time to water is in the evening as it allows the plants to soak up what they need overnight. Mulching is valuable to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Many recommend a no-dig gardening, as the less
you dig over the soil, the less weeds are disturbed. Cutting actually encourages more flowers to grow, especially annuals that have a survival imperative to set seed. Let some of your flowers set seed and collect them to sow the following year, replenishing your own stock for free,' explains Leigh.

Lifestyle journalist Sarah Wilson has been writing about gardens since 2015. She's written for Gardeningetc.com, Livingetc, Homes & Gardens, Easy Gardens and Modern Gardens magazines. Her first job on glossy magazines was at Elle, during which time a visit to the legendary La Colombe d'Or in St-Paul-de-Vence led to an interest in all things gardening. Later as lifestyle editor at Country Homes & Interiors magazine the real pull was the run of captivating country gardens that were featured. 

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CUT FLOWERS - Growing plants

Home - Growing plants

Most gardeners prefer to admire the flowers in the garden, in their natural state. However, it cannot be denied that they can be examined in more detail only at home. Collected and placed in vases, flowers and leaves will light up the gloomiest room and bring pleasure to both hosts and guests.

Cut flowers

It is best to cut garden flowers early in the morning or late in the evening, when the air is cool, the stems of the plant are elastic and have good turgor. Stems cut on a bright sunny day are not always able to absorb water quickly enough to stop the wilting process. The flowers picked in the morning, when heavy dew still lies on the grass, also wilt.

Flowers are cut with secateurs or special scissors. The stems of the collected flowers should be immersed in water as soon as possible so that their ends do not have time to dry out and delay the absorption of water.

How to prolong the life of cut flowers

Cut flowers last much longer if you follow certain rules. Removing leaves. Regardless of the type of plant, remove all leaves that, when placed in a vase, are under water. This prevents the water from becoming polluted quickly and also frees up space for other stems. Immersion in water. Withering flowers can be restored by immersing their stems to the inflorescence in warm water (a basin or bucket is suitable for this). When the flowers left in this position fully come to life, they are collected in bouquets, trying to keep them in the air as little as possible. This method is especially effective for roses.

Notching. Many plants with lignified stems have difficulty absorbing water when cut. To facilitate this process, some gardeners crush the ends of the stems with a hammer, others prefer to split the lower (2.5 cm) ends of the stem with a knife.

Boiling water treatment. The stems of some plants absorb water faster if their ends (2.5 cm) are placed in a vessel of boiling water. A minute later, the same container is filled to the brim with warm water and the plants are kept in it for several hours. The method is especially effective for roses, leaves of tropical plants, milkweed, poppies and other "weeping" plants.

Plugged stem. Hollow-stemmed flowers, such as lupins and delphiniums, are turned over, their tubular stems filled with water and plugged with damp cotton or tissue paper. This eliminates the formation of an air lock that prevents the absorption of water.

Use of chemicals. Many flower growers know that aspirin thrown into a vase of water keeps the bouquet fresh and the water clear. For the same purpose, charcoal is used. In addition, powders are available that are designed to extend the life of cut flowers. They are especially effective for rare and expensive flowers.

Perforated stems. Some flowers tend to wither immediately after they are cut. This is due to the fact that air enters the stem of the plant. Tulips are a classic example. You can avoid wilting of the stems by pricking them from top to bottom all over with an interval of 2.5 cm with a needle or a thin carnation.

Care. The bouquet retains its attractiveness with the regular addition of water at room temperature. It is not necessary to completely disassemble and regroup the bouquet due to a few withered plants. It is enough to remove the drooping stems and replace them with fresh flowers.

Flowers for a bouquet throughout the year

January: springweed, witch hazel, jasmine, viburnum, marigold iris, red lungwort, hellebore, nearly rough-haired plum, saffron.

February: bergenia, vesennik, witch hazel, garria ellipsis, erica, jasmine, holofacial, viburnum, candyk dog's tooth, marigold iris, lungwort, hellebore, yellow narcissus, snowdrop, blueberry, nearly hard-haired plum, chaenomeles, chionodoxa, saffron.

March: bergenia, spring white flower, springweed, anemone, doronicum, erica, camellia, candyk dog's tooth, lungwort, yellow narcissus, snowdrop, blueberry, hazel grouse, forsythia, chaenomeles, chionodoxa, saffron.

April: bergenia, anemone, viper onion, doronicum, wallflower, Iberian, shadberry, camellia, kandyk, lily of the valley, magnolia, hellebore, yellow narcissus, primrose, hazel grouse, tulip, forsythia, endymion.

May: columbine, carnation, geranium, doronicum, gorse, iris, lacfiol, lily of the valley, onion, laburnum, forget-me-not, primrose, peony, broom, roses, hazel grouse, cyanothus, endymion.

June: astrantia, boranchik, columbine, carnation, geranium, deutsia, shrubby rosemary, iris, bellflower, krasodnev, onion, lupine, laburnum, foxglove, roses, lilac, yarrow, hebe, cyanotus, black rank.

July: marshmallow, alstroemeria, buddleia, loosestrife, gaillardia, galtonia, gelenium, St. roses, eryngium, tobacco, physostegia, chrysanthemums (perennial border), centrantus, eucrephia.

August: agapanthus, acanthus, marshmallow, aster, gaillardia, carnation, gelenium, dahlia, kniphofia, bellflower, krasodnev, crocosmia, lavender, liatris, lily, onion, monarda, mordovnik, penstemon, roses, rudbeckia, scabiosa, yarrow, skewer, eucrephia.

September: aster, wrestler, windmill, golenium, dahlia, St.

October: aster, wrestler, heather, anemone, gayardia, erica, liriope, nerina, prominent rosary, rose, scabiosa, schizostylis, physalis, hebe, chrysanthemums, saffron.

November: erica, jasmine, viburnum, marigold iris, cotoneaster, liriope, pyracanthus, snowdrop, almost-rigid plum, schizostylis, physalis, hebe, chrysanthemums, saffron.

December: witch-hazel, erica, jasmine holoculis, black winterweed, viburnum, marigold iris, red blister, holly, pyracantha, snowdrop, plum almost rigidly hairy, schizostylis, saffron.

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Cut flowers: how to prolong their life | Flowers and Garden

Hello, dear summer residents and gardeners, you are on the Flowers and Garden channel. When a person receives a bouquet of flowers as a gift, he dreams that they would not fade and delight with their beauty. Experienced florists know some effective ways to preserve cut flowers, and they are ready to share their secrets.

More coolness

The bouquet must be stored in a cool place. If cut flowers fall into the sun or are near heating appliances, then their condition worsens literally before our eyes.

For the same reason, they must not be left near appliances that emit heat. At night, it is advisable to hide the plants in the refrigerator, after wrapping them in a newspaper, then in the morning they will again delight with their charm.

Water purity

The water in the vase must be changed daily, while shortening the stem by 1-1.5 cm. The cut must be oblique. If you cut the stems at an angle of 45 degrees, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with the life-giving liquid will increase significantly.

This way the plants will be fed better. Lignified stems (flowering willow branches, lilacs) can be split. It is important to ensure that there are no leaves in the water. Florists advise removing them according to the height of the vase.

Yes to preservatives

Special preservatives sold in flower shops can be added to water to maintain plants. Their cost is not too high, but the efficiency is great.

Thanks to the chemical elements, the bouquet will retain its external beauty for a long time. If the purchase of special preservatives did not work out, then they can be replaced with what is found in every home: soda, sugar, and even aspirin.

Strong and weak

When choosing a bouquet for a gift, remember that all flowers are different. Some are more resilient, as they tolerate stress more easily, others wither too quickly. For example, chrysanthemums and alstroemerias can remain fresh for a whole week, and with proper care even longer.

Daffodils and roses can stand for several days, but only if they are not combined with other species.

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