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Cucumber planting companions


13 Best Cucumber Companion Plants

Cucumbers are exuberant plants with vines that can sprawl over a lot of space—the healthier the plant, the more room they seem to take up. But, if you do not want your cucumbers to overgrow in a spot or choke out the competition, give the cucumber vines a trellis to grow up, giving you more space for other nearby plants.

Several garden plants fare well alongside these vigorous vines and make great companion plants for cucumbers. You'll find it's usually easiest to grow plants with similar care instructions, such as light, soil, water, and sun requirements. Some similar growing companions may include plants like tomatoes, zucchini, or squash. However, one thing to be careful of with similar-growing plants like cucumbers and tomatoes is they can sometimes fall prone to the same diseases, like mosaic virus or blight, which can spread easily if they're near each other.

The best companion plants help deter pests and do not compete with cucumbers for water or nutrients. The worst neighbors do just the opposite.

Best Cucumber Companion Plants

Special note about tomatoes and other cucurbits: Tomatoes and other cucurbits (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin) grow in the same conditions, complementing each other. They also attract similar pollinators to increase your plant's harvest. The reason these plants are not on the list as "best" companions is they are susceptible to some of the same diseases as cucumbers. If one plant gets infected, it's possible to wipe out your entire crop.

Learn more details about the garden plants that make the best cucumber companions and discover why you should not grow potatoes, sage, mint, and melon with cucumbers.

How to Grow Cucumbers

What Is Companion Planting?

Companion planting is the practice of planting different species together based on their ability to enhance one another's growth, offer some form of pest protection, or other advantages.

Sometimes this is a matter of choosing plants with different growth habits that do not compete with one another for space, or it can mean choosing companions that have different nutrient needs in order to make efficient use of soil. Ideally, companion plants help ward off destructive insects, making garden pest management easier.

Some companion planting simply involves common sense—making sure that taller plants don't provide too much shade to low-growing plants, for instance. Strategic companion planting is especially important in small gardens or wherever careful space planning is needed. 

Companion Planting to Control the Insects in Your Garden

Benefits of Companion Planting

Seasoned gardeners swear by companion planting because it increases the health and productivity of crops like cucumbers. Benefits of companion planting for cucumbers and other plants include:

The Spruce / K. Dave

Best Companion Plants for Cucumbers

Various vegetables, flowers, and herbs make excellent companions for cucumbers.

How to Grow and Care for Oregano

The Spruce / K. Dave  

Worst Companion Plants for Cucumbers

What plants should you not plant near cucumbers and why?

The Spruce / K. Dave 

The Best and Worst Cucumber Companion Plants

When certain plants produce huge yields, grow fast, and take a lot of nutrients and water, it’s only natural they would become the stars of the garden.

Cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, definitely play that role. But if you’re wise, you can make them healthier, happier, and more productive by choosing proper companions as supporting players.

This idea of companion planting is part science, part shared lessons handed down from home gardener to home gardener.

The basic idea is to intently plan your garden spaces so plants that benefit each other end up growing close together – and those that aren’t able to get along don’t have to.

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The end game is to increase the whole garden’s ability to repel pests and attract beneficial insects, improve your soil health, and sometimes to create an appealing garden design.

While this is a great idea in any growing space, I think you’ll find it really makes sense when you’re trying to grow a bumper crop of cukes.

Just a little support from another plant can increase yields and pollination levels. Sometimes, the other plant is the main beneficiary, which is okay, too.

I will mention that many of these ideas are centered on garden wisdom, not hard research conducted in a lab. But I’d encourage you to give them a try yourself and see what works for you.

Some companion plants old timers swear by might solve a big issue for you. And the worst case scenario is that you plant a few things you wouldn’t otherwise. No harm done!

Let’s get to exploring this concept, and take a look at all the best options. Here’s what to expect:

What You’ll Learn

What Cucumbers Need from Companions

Before I get into specific types of plants, I’m going to take a minute and share the general guidelines for beneficial companions for cukes.

In general, the plants should grow well in the same type of soil, and prefer the same pH. To get along with cucumbers, that would mean well-draining soil that’s been amended with plenty of aged organic matter, and a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.

As for light requirements, the best neighbors will either share the need for full sun, or benefit from the shade provided by vining vegetables.

Since these vegetables are annuals, it’s key that any flowers or herbs grown in the same garden plot be annuals as well. Otherwise, it’s a pain to relocate or work around perennials so you can cultivate your veggie garden in preparation for the following season.

You can, of course, opt for perennials, even with the sunflowers I’ll suggest, but plant them nearby or in containers so they don’t mess up your soil prep next year.

Keep in mind, too, that there are many different types of C. sativus plant, and the ones you select will impact your choice of companion.

Bush varieties, for example, don’t grow so tall they’ll shade other plants. So you can plant them closer to fellow sun lovers, like bush beans, but you can’t rely on them to shade plants like calendula.

The bush types spread more than trellised vining varieties, too, so they require more square footage on the ground or in a raised bed.

That leaves you fewer opportunities to tuck a few companions like carrots into the nooks and crannies at the base of the plants, the way you can when you’re growing vines on supports.

Whether a variety requires pollination to bear fruit also impacts this selection process. You may want to emphasize annual and perennial flowers that attract pollinators, for example, but if you have a parthenocarpic cucumber variety in mind, they won’t need bees to produce.

For more information about the different types of cucumber plant, including pickling and slicing, hybrid and heirloom, and distinctions made on whether they require pollination, see our guide.

Also, make sure to note how many days it takes each plant to mature or fruit.

So I can clear the whole garden in one fell swoop for next season’s planting, I make sure to select varieties that wrap up their harvest window around the same time.

I don’t like when one variety lags behind the others once I’m ready to uproot, compost, and sow a new crop or prepare the garden bed for winter.

The Best Companion Plants

Now that we’ve established a basic framework, let’s get a look at some specific companions that are most beneficial as you pursue that bumper crop:

1. Beans

All types of bean plant (Phaseolus vulgaris) “fix” nitrogen into the soil, which is appreciated by this heavy-feeding garden vegetable.

I recommend only bush beans as buddies for cukes, though. If you’re growing vining varieties, pole beans will compete for sunlight and space on the trellis.

And when you’re growing bush cucumbers, the vining types of bean will shade them – not a good thing.

I plan this pairing extra carefully, making sure the cucumber seedlings are at least a couple of inches tall before sowing the beans, so they don’t grow right over the top of them.

Try the heirloom bush bean ‘Dragon Tongue,’ which produces shell, snap, or dried beans.

‘Dragon Tongue’ Beans

It is available from Territorial Seeds via Arbico Organics. And it matures in 60 days, roughly the same as a vining cucumber like ‘Marketmore,’ available from the same seller.

Learn how to grow bush beans in our guide.

2. Borage

Borage (Borago officinalis) is a friend indeed. It draws pollinators with its edible blooms that, ironically, taste like cucumbers.

If it matures ahead of your summer vegetables, you may also want to nosh on the leaves and stalks, which can be steamed as you would spinach or beet greens.

I plant the seeds next to my zucchini and tomatoes, too. When the garden starts blooming, I delight in watching the bees start off at the borage, and stop by to pollinate my veggie plants on their journeys to and fro.

This beautiful plant, which is considered a self-seeding annual herb, also adds nutrients to the soil and repels pests like hornworms.

And it needs the same full sun and well-draining soil as its new BFF, so you can plant them together in containers, too.

Just remember to give each plant enough space; they both really appreciate ample circulation.

Borage

Find borage seeds at Botanical Interests.

Learn how to plant and grow borage in our guide.

3. Calendula

The bright orange blooms on calendula (Calendula officinalis) are attractive, and not just to the human eye.

This annual flowering herb appeals to a number of beneficial and pest insects, which makes it a helpful neighbor for cucumbers.

Plant them as a “trap” to draw aphids away from the vines or bushes.

Also known as pot marigold, calendula attracts a number of beneficial prey insects, too. It brings in hoverflies to dine on aphids, for example, and parasitic wasps that consume cucumber beetles.

On the more appealing side of this circle of life, calendula flowers are pollinator magnets, which is much appreciated if you’re growing heirloom, open-pollinated vegetables.

And the compact plants prefer filtered sun or part shade, so they’re a great choice to grow at the foot of a vining variety, or next to a bush plant that will shade them.

‘Ball’s Improved Orange’ Calendula

This sunny plant is easily grown from seed. Try ‘Ball’s Improved Orange,’ available from Eden Brothers.

Check out our guide to learn more about growing calendula.

4. Carrots

Except for a big taproot that makes them so resistant to transplanting, cucumbers don’t need much space below the soil to grow.

That opens up an opportunity to plant a root vegetable like carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) nearby, and use every square inch of available earth.

Carrots grow best when you plant them as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. So they’ll have plenty of time for their sloooowww germination before the soil warms and you add cucumbers to that same garden bed.

Both veggies appreciate deeply tilled soil, too, another reason they make good neighbors.

‘Little Finger’ Carrots

For this pairing, consider planting heirloom ‘Little Finger’ carrots.They’ll mature in 57 days and grow just three inches long.

Seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Consult our guide to growing carrots to learn more.

5. Corn

Corn stalks can provide a natural stake for some vining varieties. But if you’re going to try this, make sure you give the corn a head start.

While corn can grow really quickly, to be sturdy enough to support vines, the stalks should be at least half-grown and an inch or two thick.

Also take care not to expect the trellising benefit if you’re growing varieties with heavy yields of eight or 10-inch fruits. Corn is far more reliable as a support for vines that produce smaller cucumbers, like gherkin varieties or ‘Lemon.’

If you’re committed to growing bush or heavy-fruited cucumbers, though, the corn will still appreciate them as a neighbor.

According to ag extension agents at the Chemung County University of Cornell Extension Service, “cukes seem to be offensive to raccoons, so it’s good to plant them near your corn.”

Also, short vine or bush cultivars can suppress weeds if you sow them at the base of corn plants. Just be sure they don’t grow so close together that the corn throws shade.

‘Peaches and Cream’ Corn

Try ‘Peaches and Cream,’ which grows six or seven feet tall, and produces eight-inch ears about 70 days after sowing.

The seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

You can learn more about how to cultivate corn in our guide.

6. Dill

Dill attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs, which eat the aphids and spider mites that tend to plague cucumbers.

The popular pickling herb also brings in the pollinators, a benefit to open-pollinated vegetables all over the garden.

‘Bouquet’ Dill

‘Bouquet’ dill is the standard choice here, with seeds available from Eden Brothers.

It matures in 40 to 60 days, so it will be ready for pickling enterprises right about the same time as your cucumber harvest.

Check out our guide to growing dill for more information.

7. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum spp.) spell two-for-one trouble for common cucumber insect pests.

First, their bright, edible blooms attract aphids. Plant them close enough, and the aphids will bug the nasturtiums, not your veggies.

In addition, they’re a draw for the beneficial insects including ladybugs, which eat cucumber beetles and whiteflies.

And the ladybugs consume aphids, too, so you don’t have to fret that the nasturtiums will suffer under this arrangement.

This pairing has visual appeal in an edible container garden, too, with the vibrant oranges, yellows, and reds playing off the dark green cucurbit leaves and yellow blossoms.

If you’ve got a strong enough trellis, consider growing a climbing nasturtium alongside your vining cucumber to save space.

‘Mahogany Gleam’ Nasturtiums

For a trailing vine with red-petaled blooms, try ‘Mahogany Gleam’ nasturtiums. You can find seeds available from Eden Brothers.

Learn more about how to grow nasturtiums in our guide.

8. Radishes

If maximizing every inch of your garden is a priority for you, consider planting a few radishes (Raphanus sativus) near your cucumbers.

They’ll sprout quickly and the spring varieties mature within 21 to 35 days. By the time your cucurbit plants are sizable enough to need the space, the radishes will be but a fond memory.

The ag experts at Chemung County University of Cornell Extension Service recommend this pairing for a different reason, though.

They advise home gardeners to plant two or three radish seeds in each hill because those root vegetables repel cucumber beetles.They also say to let the radishes get so old they begin to flower, which renders them inedible but draws in pollinators.

I would add, though, that if you’re growing a lot of brassicas like kale, broccoli, or mustard greens, you might want to skip this idea.

Radishes are also brassicas, so if you plant even a few of them now, it’s not a good plan to grow other cole crops in that soil for a season or two.

Brassica crops grown two years in a row in a particular location increase the risk of certain pests and diseases making an appearance. As important as companion planting can be, I would rank the value of crop rotation ahead of it, and skip the radishes.

‘Sora’ Radish

If that’s not a concern, try ‘Sora,’ spring-planted radishes that mature in 26 days.

You can find seeds available from Territorial via Arbico Organics.

Learn how to grow radishes in our guide.

9. Sunflowers

Heirloom and other open-pollinated sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) draw bees and other pollinators to the vegetable garden.

Some sunflower cultivars are also sturdy and tall enough to provide support for climbing plants. Just make sure to pick an open-pollinated cultivar with a substantial center stalk.

Plant them well ahead of the vines they’re intended to support.

Try ‘Lemon Queen,’ planting the seeds as soon as the weather is warm enough, and at least three weeks ahead of the cucumbers.

‘Lemon Queen’ Sunflowers

It takes 85 to 90 days to grow five to seven feet tall and bloom on a main stalk strong enough to support vines.

Find ‘Lemon Queen’ seeds available at Botanical Interests.

And our guide to growing sunflowers covers cultivation instructions.

Keep Cucumber Plants Away From These

Along with pairing up mutually-beneficial plants, it’s a good idea to keep cucumbers away from these plants that impact them adversely.

Other Cucurbits, Like Squash

C. sativus is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, which also includes various gourds, squash, and watermelons.

You may want to get familiar with that short list ahead of vegetable garden planning, because ideally, you won’t place any of its relatives too close to cukes.

When they’re neighbors, they tend to spread disease and attract the same insect pests, since they are susceptible to almost all the same issues and bugs.

If any are vining varieties, they’ll quickly get tangled, too.

Potatoes

One potato, two potato… no potato here, because they don’t play well with cucurbits.

One reason is that both vining veggies and potatoes are quite thirsty, and compete for water with one or both as the loser.

Also, to harvest potatoes, you have to uproot them, which can disturb those thin, shallow side roots the cucumber relies on.

Other nightshades do fine as cucurbit neighbors though, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. 

Sage and Other Aromatic Herbs

While I’ve never come across any hard data on the topic, gardening wisdom and even the occasional agricultural extension service expert warns against planting sage (Salvia officinalis) or other pungent, aromatic herbs near cucumbers.

The thinking is that the strong scent of these herbs may adversely affect the flavor profile of nearby vegetables.

My view is, why risk it? There’s a chance all those generations of home gardeners are mistaken, but I’d rather just save the sage, basil, and mints for other spots.

Cool Friends for Cucumber Plants

As you start using this list of vegetable plant friends and enemies to plan your own garden, I hope you’ll experience an added benefit.

Aside from improving the health of your plants and the yield of your vegetables, companion planting can hone your awareness as a gardener.

To figure out which pairings will work in your available growing space, you’ll need to observe, tinker, and check in on your seedlings, soil, and even the bugs.

To me, that’s one of the great joys of gardening: being present.

It gives me a lift that exceeds even the value I receive from managing my cucumbers, and indeed all the vegetables I grow, in a way that will keep them producing at their best.

What about you? Do you have any experience with cucumbers and their BFFs and enemies?

Tips or questions are most appreciated. Kindly share either in the comments section below.

And if you’re getting into the swing of growing this popular vegetable, or even if you’re still just considering all the angles, read these cucumber guides next:

How to properly plant cucumbers with seeds in open ground

Cucumber is a vegetable that gives freshness and contains a large amount of water. The minimum number of calories and the benefits of eating are far from the only benefits. The most strict diets and healthy eating rules allow an unlimited amount of literally vitamin at any time of the day, thanks to the stimulation of metabolism with a high amount of water, weight goes off many times faster.
The composition, in addition to magnesium, potassium, fiber and minerals, contains the presence of antioxidants that reduce the likelihood of the onset and development of diseases. Losing weight and maintaining a stable stomach condition affects body weight and sugar levels. Prevention of diabetes, moisturizing and improving the quality of the skin. Cucumber masks and water are popular with those who follow beauty and health. nine0003 As a component of dishes, the ingredient is suitable for many cuisines around the world. Easy to process, has a pronounced shade for all receptors. And grandparents will always be able to please themselves and their grandchildren by salting a jar for the winter or leaving it in the marinade for a couple of hours.

Fit features.

On the shelves of stores and markets, goods are often presented with a high content of harmful additives and chemicals, which do not always pass the appropriate test and are of proper quality. Self-breeding on your site or in a special place guarantees a quality product with a clean composition and a pleasant taste. nine0003 Planting cucumbers in open ground with seeds is a process that knowledgeable, experienced summer residents do with constant regularity, leaving the best part of the territory for cultivation. By correctly performing the sequence of actions, carrying out timely care and taking into account some secrets and features, a small piece of land can bring a huge harvest.

The secrets of inevitable success are based on controlling the key needs of the root crop. Each feature requires a detailed analysis for further work. The most important are:

Soil preparation for planting.

Basic, laying a solid foundation for achieving the goal - the distribution of the territory and soil preparation. The response of the root crop to fertility is positive and fast. The organization of the area stretches south from the north, introducing organic matter in the spring and additional trace elements at the time of planting. nine0003 Up to 6 kilograms of rotted cow manure is applied to a standard square. Under the seed - mullein in a ratio of one to five with water. The rules for diluting chicken manure are four times different and equal to one to twenty. The absence of organics is saved by ready-made complexes of minerals.
The height of one bed is at least a quarter of a meter - a reliable and advantageous superstructure on the base. The warming effect of the walls and the environmentally friendly cushion works like a factory supplying the right amount of products from the environment. nine0005

Landing.

Seedlings are not the only way to achieve high performance. Mild climatic conditions do not cause a negative reaction and inhibition of development, on the contrary, they contribute in every possible way to its painless formation.
Sowing is divided into successive stages in order not to miscalculate, finding out the stabilization of the weather and the likelihood of cold weather and stretch the fruiting. It is customary for the southern ones to start sowing in mid-May, carrying it out until June 15. The shift forward is meaningless because of the conditions that act as irritants, not catalysts. nine0003 Having identified the likely threats and obvious catalysts, study in detail the modern scientific achievements associated with the appearance on the market of varieties modeled for specific areas with all the consequences and hybrid mixtures with developed immunity to viruses and diseases. The analysis of information and the use of the invention of modernity eliminates unnecessary hassle and saves time, effort and money.
The description on the packaging or on the Internet indicates the purpose of the model. Having missed this moment, you can waste the beginning of summer and the summer season, spoiling the quality or losing the long-awaited harvest altogether. nine0003 A picture or label with an image carries a hidden meaning, unfamiliar to beginners and amateurs. Having found black pimples, refer the species to those developed for conservation. Intended for eating fresh, they have white dots.
Two years is the lower age limit for inoculation material. Female flowers form fruits with a small error. Melon breeds annually provoke a jump upward in germination during storage for six years. Until the ninth year, the criterion falls, taking the pasture out of circulation. nine0005

Watering.

Moderate portions of water are the key to competitiveness and a decent exit. Row spacing holes are stocked, supplying moisture non-stop. In the evening or at a fixed fixed time in the morning, 18-25 degree rain is sprayed, avoiding contact with the leaves. Fruits require an increase in fluid intake.

Fertilizers.

2-3 leaflets determine the beginning of the introduction of nitrogen, stimulating the fastest full development. Phosphorus and potassium compensate for losses after a reliable formation. Skilled experts mix fertilizer groups, introducing complexes before frost. nine0003 Hilling.
Several times per season is sufficient for bare roots. Stem immunity to fungal diseases has been achieved.

Aristan Cucumber

Pinching.

The formation of the plant increases the lateral shoots, producing predominantly female flowers, subsequently producing an enviable vegetable one after another. The central main stem is pinched on the 5th-6th leaf, forming a direction. Brake for early maturing and "Green light" late and neutral. nine0005

Techniques for increasing quantity.

In addition to pinching and care, there are a number of ways to increase the yield, based on the formation of predominantly female flowers: fruit formation.

  • Another way is the deliberate mixing of varieties and hybrids for the purpose of cross-pollination. nine0022
  • By making a circular incision at the bottom of the first pair of stem leaves in dry weather - banding, vital substances that sponsor nutrition stop leaving the stem to the roots, redistributing to the long-awaited product in the ovary stage.
  • Urea at the time of the decline in the setting of greens at the rate of 20 grams per 10 liters, relevant on humid evenings or in a cloudy sky. Top dressing occurs outside the root.
  • Complete removal of the first ovary is an effective stimulant that encourages the root system and accumulates strength for further production. nine0022
  • The bait of bees by plants bearing honey or fragrant syrups in containers is responsible for benign pollination.
  • The Scourge needs support. The installation of simple vertical or inclined structures along the beds or along the diameter will definitely have a positive effect not only on the collection, but also on the movement of air flows, reducing the risk of diseases and threats.

    • Cucumber Ecole F1

    Care at the final step. nine0009

    Peak fruiting occurs in early July. They pluck every other day with roosters crowing in the early morning. Evening ones wither faster and have problems with preservation. They seize everything that is available: twisted, damaged, ugly or too large take away some of the substances, depriving the rest of the opportunity to fully grow. Cut with garden shears or pinch with nails, without scrolling and pulling out, in order to avoid injury to the lashes.
    Unusual leaves, yellow or brown, with holes or rotting, are transported away. Strength and health depend on all factors, extra risk is not welcome. nine0005

    Subsequent years.

    It is customary to repeat the variety you like the next year. Seeds are collected from the largest, fleshy and absolutely healthy representatives after full maturation in an amount not exceeding 3 pieces per 1 bush. Do not confuse with hybrids, in such a situation the process loses its meaning, not repeating from its predecessors.

    Given the few features and preferences indicated in the article, the process begins to bring not trouble, but pleasure at the beginning of the warm season. The result completely depends on the owner and his detailed analysis of all indicators, really accurate and attentive interaction at all stages. Most responsible gardeners succeed in appreciating the taste and freshness of a root crop filled with vitamins and minerals, using a vegetable that is absolutely pure in composition. Proper storage, in turn, will ensure enjoyment before the onset of serious cold weather. Leaving in a place inaccessible to outsiders the rudiments for the next years, not letting them disappear, there are all chances to save time and money, having obtained a crop identical or superior to the past. nine0003 It is easy to do gardening and horticulture by studying the information available in the open spaces, based on many years of experience of seasoned summer residents and scientists.

    Cucumber, in place! Making a plan for planting in a greenhouse | Kitchen garden | Dacha

    Julia Belopukhova

    Estimated reading time: 3 minutes

    14712

    AIF at Dacha No. 7. Black list of crops: what not to buy 04/04/2017 nine0002 Shutterstock.com

    In the middle lane, it is better to install a cucumber greenhouse in the north-south direction. This culture will feel best in the garden adjacent to the east side. However, you can settle cucumbers in any part of the greenhouse and no matter where it looks. The main thing is to choose suitable varieties and not thicken the plants. The most common planting pattern is 50 × 50 cm (if the greenhouse is surrounded by tall trees, then the step is increased by a third). nine0005

    South

    Early or mid-ripening (they have time to harvest before the heat), cold-resistant cucumbers with both long and short fruits will show themselves well here.

    Long-fruited hybrids F1: Zozulya, Aprelsky, Dmitry Donskoy, Uncle Styopa (do not require pollination) and Olimpiada, Do not be sad, crunch (bee-pollinated).

    Short-fruited parthenocarpic (that is, fruit-bearing without pollination) hybrids F1 female flowering type: Aroma of summer, Antoshka, Chipmunk, Boatswain, German, Dmitry Donskoy, Friends-friends, Uncle Styopa, Quadrille, Curly forelock, Shanghai. Bee-pollinated F1 hybrids, including those with limited shoot growth: Baba Masha, Bax, Gemini, Vladimir, Perseus, Skorokhod. nine0005

    West

    Here you can choose from many parthenocarpic varieties.

    They are recommended to be planted in two rows (1.5 m apart) staggered 50 cm apart.

    F1 hybrids: Vanyusha, Magnificent five, Moscow evenings, Teschin dessert.

    Vostok

    Early cucumbers with weak branching will like this place.

    F1 hybrids: Appetizing, No hassle, Ant, Crunchy breakfast. nine0005

    North

    Light shading and coolness will withstand cucumbers with a bunch type of fruiting. The secret is that they first grow in one stem and do not interfere with each other for a long time.

    F1 hybrids: Cheerful gnomes, Green bunch, Hit of the season and others.

    Center

    Parthenocarpic cucumbers with a female flowering type make full use of the height of the greenhouse. They are planted in a row along the ridge line of the greenhouse.

    F1 hybrids: Barin, Lucky, All the way, Herman, Zyatek, Peat. nine0005

    Is a cucumber not a child of the Sun?

    Many people think that the cucumber loves the light. Indeed, the lack of lighting delays fruiting, sometimes for two weeks, and reduces the accumulation of sugars and essential substances in them. However, this plant was formed in tropical forests, so it does not tolerate direct sunlight and is less demanding on lighting than watermelon, melon, tomato, eggplant and pepper.

    See also:

    cucumbers greenhouse

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