Home » Misc » Planting a fruit garden

Planting a fruit garden


How to plant fruit trees: an expert guide

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

It’s vital to know how to plant fruit trees the right way, to ensure a healthy plant that yields a good crop.

Fruit trees are one of the best garden ideas to include as they bring so much joy. From the crunchiest apples to the juiciest plums, nothing tastes as sweet as fruit you have grown yourself, and it will be much fresher than store-bought produce.

However, when planning a kitchen garden, it's important to only select the best fruit trees that will grow well in your location and climate.

'Start by asking your local county extension specialists, who often have the most knowledge about which varieties thrive in your area,' says Pete Smith, arborist and urban forestry program manager at Arbor Day Foundation . 'They will also be able to advise on whether you require two different varieties to cross-pollinate and bear fruit.'

In addition, you can check the plant hardiness zone map to find out which fruit trees are compatible for your specific location.

'Make sure you obtain quality plant stock from a reputable nursery,' adds Smith. 'Oftentimes the trees are bare-root specimens, which means there is no soil or containers around the roots, and they are usually less expensive.'

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

How to plant fruit trees – step by step

‘Learning how to plant fruit trees isn't that much different from knowing how to plant a tree of any other type,’ says Lisa Tadewaldt,’ arborist and owner of Urban Forest Pro .

‘But you need to get the process right to ensure the tree will survive and flourish, and produce as much fruit as possible.’

Bear in mind some fruit trees have their own specific requirements – there may be small differences between how to plant an apple tree versus another type of fruit, so do check the instructions supplied with your tree.

  1. Dig over the soil in your chosen location and remove any big stones. ‘Avoid amending the soil too much, as you want the tree to grow and thrive in the existing soil rather than add in a lot of nutrient-rich soil, which can keep the roots from branching out,’ says Tadewaldt. ‘Light mixing is fine, but don't go overboard and ensure local soil from your hole remains the majority.’
  2. Using the pot as a size guide, dig a hole for your tree. 'When digging a hole for your fruit trees, dig a saucer rather than a cylinder,’ says Christy Wilhelmi, author of Grow Your Own Mini Fruit Garden . ‘The bottom of the saucer should be only as deep as the soil root ball, and the diameter of the saucer should be at least 3-5 feet wide, sloping gently from soil surface to base.’
  3. Remove the tree from the container. ‘Scour the sides of the root wad 1-2 inches deep with the side of your shovel,’ says Tadewaldt. ‘You can further encourage this with your fingers, as the goal is to loosen that outer layer of the soil wad.' Bare-root trees won't have any soil.
  4. Place the tree in your prepared hole. ‘Follow the planting instructions to be sure to plant the sapling at the correct depth in the planting hole,’ says Smith. ‘You must never bury the graft union, which can be identified as a raised bulge that must be above the soil when planted. ’
  5. ‘Position the graft to the north, if it is a single graft. If planting multi-graft trees position the smallest graft or scion to the south,’ says Suzanne Fellows from Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply . 
  6. ‘Fill the dirt derived from digging the hole back in around the trunk of the tree and stomp the soil well while keeping the tree straight to compact it,’ says Tammy Sons from Tennessee Nursery .
  7. It’s important to stake your tree when planting, to protect it from wind damage. There are several ways to do this, but the most common method is to insert a stake before filling the hole with soil. The stake should come up a third of the tree’s height.
  8. If training your fruit tree as an espalier or cordon, put your trellis in place now. There are many beautiful vegetable garden trellis ideas available.
  9. Give your tree a good watering, and then water regularly until it is established.

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

Where to plant fruit trees

The best place to plant your fruit trees will depend on the light and sheltering requirements of the specific variety. However, most fruit trees prefer full sun. ‘Fruit trees should get at least eight hours of direct sun per day,’ says Fellows. 

‘In general, the best site for fruit trees is a sunny, sheltered spot with well-drained neutral to slightly acidic soil; they are not well suited to extremely alkaline soils,’ says Period Living's gardens expert Leigh Clapp.

You should also consider how your fruit tree's position might affect garden maintenance. ‘Decide on a planting location where the trees can grow and bear fruit without causing a mess near your home landscape,’ adds Smith.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When to plant fruit trees

The best time to plant fruit trees is when they are dormant in winter.

‘Bare root trees should be planted from November to early spring, while container-grown plants can be planted any time of year – but it is best done in winter,’ says Clapp. 

Winter is also the most cost-effective time to plant trees. ‘You can pick up wintertime bare-root fruit trees for less than half the price of springtime pot-grown ones,’ adds Clive Harris, founder of DIY Garden .

(Image credit: Future / Mark Bolton)

Planting fruit trees in pots

Dwarf fruit trees are some of the best trees to grow in pots and are fantastic small garden ideas as they can be positioned on the patio or even a balcony. 

‘Size really matters when it comes to container-grown fruit trees,’ says Harris.

‘Buy the largest container you can afford and plant your bare-root tree in winter using lots of organic mulch and a few handfuls of garden soil to introduce healthy bacteria and earthworms.'

When planting fruit trees in pots, it is important to stake them to provide protection against prevailing winds. Most fruit trees should be placed in a sheltered spot in full sun – but check the requirements of your plant.

‘It is essential that you water and feed container-grown fruit trees in spring and summer because dry trees will shed their blossom in a bid to stay alive,’ adds Harris. ‘Check them daily and feed them once a week with a specialist fruit tree fertilizer. ’

How do you prepare the soil for planting fruit trees?

To prepare the soil for planting fruit trees, first learn how to test the pH level of soil. ‘You can do this with a home test kit, or by sending a soil sample to be analysed in laboratory conditions at your local university,’ says Alison Hilton, plants and trees expert at The Yard and Garden . 

‘Ideally you would choose fruit trees to suit your natural soil pH, but it is possible to can amend it to a degree using lime or acidifier. For example, apple trees enjoy 5.5-6.5 pH, while plum trees prefer 6.0-8.8 pH – so get the pH right, and you will be rewarded every season.’

While minor pH adjustments are possible, if your soil type is completely at odds with the needs of the tree, then choose a dwarf variety that you can grow in a container.

It’s also important to lightly improve the soil with compost, to ensure your tree gets the nutrients it needs to thrive. ‘Amend the entire soil area with compost, rather than just filling the hole with potting soil or compost,’ says Wilhelmi. ‘That will encourage tree roots to grow into existing soil instead of circling around in the hole.’

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

How far apart do fruit trees need to be planted?

How far apart fruit trees need to be planted depends partly on whether they are being trained to grow up a trellis, or require cross-pollination.

'Fruit trees should not be planted too close together to avoid root competition and to allow light to reach the ground,' says Clapp.

'In general, they need to be around 10-30 feet apart. Allow at least 6ft between espaliers and 2ft between cordons.'

What fruit trees should be planted next to each other?

Which fruit trees should be planted next to each other depends largely on whether your chosen tree needs to be cross-pollinated. If so, you will need at least two varieties.

‘Self-fertile trees won’t need another nearby for cross-pollination to generate fruit,' but pollinating ones will need at least one companion tree nearby,' says Clapp.

For example, when growing apples, a crab apple tree will pollinate with most varieties.

How to care for fruit trees

A key part of learning how to plant fruit trees is knowing how to look after them once they are in the ground.

When your fruit tree is first planted, it’s important to keep it well watered until it is established. ‘Irrigate well for the first week in particular, watering once daily,’ says Sons.

Check the requirements for your particular fruit tree to see if it needs any particular feeding regime.

Many fruit trees will benefit from an annual mulch. ‘If mulching around the tree, do not allow mulch to touch the tree trunk,’ says Fellows.

Pruning to make major changes to the tree’s shape is best performed in the winter, when the plant is dormant and the leaves have fallen, so you can get a good sense of the overall shape.

You can also prune a fruit tree in the spring and summer to keep on top of excessive growth and to help train it.

As editor of Period Living, Britain's best-selling period homes magazine, Melanie loves the charm of older properties. I live in a rural village just outside the Cotswolds in England, so am lucky to be surrounded by beautiful homes and countryside, where I enjoy exploring. Having worked in the industry for almost two decades, Melanie is interested in all aspects of homes and gardens. Her previous roles include working on Real Homes and Homebuilding & Renovating, and she has also contributed to Gardening Etc. She has an English degree and has also studied interior design. Melanie frequently writes for Homes & Gardens about property restoration and gardening.

A How-To Guide for Starting a Fruit Garden

From summer’s sweet strawberries to fall’s crisp apples, there’s nothing quite like biting into a piece of fruit that you grew yourself. So what’s one of the main reasons why people don’t have a fruit garden you ask? Most people just don’t know how to get started. So whether you’re planting in a pot or a plot, here are a few things every first time gardener should know.

Start Small

Almost every gardener will tell you that it’s better to be proud of a small garden than to be frustrated by a big one. When the urge to start your own garden strikes, it may be tempting to transform your entire backyard into a miniature fruit farm, but that can be a lot (and we mean a lot) of work for first time gardeners. Instead, pick a small piece of land (typically 16X10 is a good start), and start out growing one type of fruit. Once you’ve got the hang of that one, expand and start growing other kinds of fruit.

Deciding Where to Plant

Now that you know how big your plot is going to be, it’s time to figure out where it’s going to go.

Gather Your Tools

The right tools can mean the difference between spending five hours working on your garden, and two. While everyone will need slightly different tools depending on what they’re growing, most gardeners will need these basics.

Decide What to Grow

While deciding what to grow usually depends on your diet, you should also consider starting with fruits that are easier to maintain, like:

Looking for an easier way to get fresh, tasty fruit on the table? That’s where we come in! With our same-day delivery, we can have delicious fruit at your door in no time.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest

Tara Carlson

Tara Carlson graduated from Hofstra University with a degree in Public Relations and loves any and all things creative writing - which is why she is thrilled to be working with Berry Chatty. When she's not writing, you can probably find her swimming at the beach, catching up on the latest movies (she's a big fan of award season!) and playing soccer.

Layout of a fruit and berry garden. Photo - Botanichka

Planning a fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Garden planning. © woodcroft orchard

Preparatory work

When planning the land, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place for the garden with a high groundwater table. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work. nine0003

Zoning when planning orchards and berries

On a separate sheet of the garden diary, draw the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cottage. nine0003

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and a brief description of fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their location on the plot area under the numbers. nine0003 Plan the future garden so that the plants do not interfere with each other and do not block the light. © pickleshlee

Berry Layout

When laying out the berry on the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in a landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great. nine0003

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally best placed along the boundaries of the plot. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

Planting density of berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops. nine0003

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place. nine0003 Planting berry bushes. © Thomas Generazio

Layout of the orchard

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout of fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost. nine0003

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle.

1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties are enough. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties of different ripening periods. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds. nine0003

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is necessary to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General approaches to planting a garden

Plant a garden in the fall, that is, dig planting holes according to your scheme, prepare near each one the fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Preparing the planting hole

In autumn, you will only be able to prepare a planting hole of approximate dimensions, as the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, depending on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit. nine0003

Preparing the soil mixture

Near each hole, mix the top layer of soil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

Saplings of fruit trees and berry bushes are best purchased from trusted manufacturers. © mainetoday

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting of seedlings is best done in spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period. nine0003

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time. nine0003

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak seedlings in rootstock or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

Approximately 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil. nine0003

Important details of planting

When planting, be sure to check the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loamy soils (especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils. nine0003

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you correctly identified the root collar and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves. nine0003 Apple trees on trellises. © starkbros

How to determine the root neck

  1. In a young seedling, wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root well with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
  2. In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet cloth and, after the wet zone has dried, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of the inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar. nine0010
  3. In some seedlings, the place where the upper lateral roots emerge from the trunk is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What should not be done when planting seedlings

What should be done when planting seedlings

Basic Principles of Orchard Planning

Orchard planning helps you plant fruit crops with maximum efficiency. Proper splitting and clever placement of crops helps to get a good harvest, prevents disease and pest damage. nine0003

Anisimov A.M. ⏳ 03-14-2018 06-24-2021

When planning an orchard, everything must be thought out for years to come. Photo: Vermont Public Radio When planning an orchard, you need to think about everything for years to come. Photo: Vermont Public Radio

Contents:

which should not be rushed. The yield of fruit and berry crops, their health and interaction with each other will depend on garden planning. nine0003

The basic principles of garden planning will help lay the foundation for future generations - a garden is not planted for one year or even a decade. Therefore, it is worth approaching planning with due reverence. All work should be divided into preparatory, main and final, in order to fully control the process of laying the garden.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work includes finding a place for a garden plot, or determining the most suitable place on an existing plot. nine0003

You should start by determining the orientation of the site relative to the cardinal points. Orientation will help to make a plan, taking into account the illumination. As you know, the intensity of illumination of plants is greater in the South, and in the North - the illumination is minimal, because the Sun is never in the North in the Northern Hemisphere of the Earth.

So, first of all, you need to determine the south side of the garden. Determined? Now look for tall buildings, fences, trees. If there is, at noon, determine the length of the shadow from them and the place in the garden that falls into the shade. nine0161 June 22 it is desirable to map the shadows when the sun's height at noon is at its maximum. A shadow map will help determine the planting of shade-tolerant plants.

Determining the groundwater level is the next step in planning an orchard. The garden cannot be laid in a low place where the groundwater level is closer than 50-80 cm. In addition, cold air and water will roll into the lowland when snow and ice melt.

So, ideally, an orchard should be located on a bright, sunny, southern hillock, away from buildings and fences. nine0003

The garden area must be cleared of stones, wild shrubs, stumps and other debris, and then the earth should be deeply plowed with a bed overturn.

When weeds emerge, remove them and level the area so that you can make markings for fruit crops and drive in pegs with the names of future plantings.

Raspberries grow strongly over the years. This must be taken into account when planning. Photo: Gardenoholic

If you are unfamiliar with the physical and chemical state of garden soil, then it is worth doing an analysis in a chemical laboratory. Soil analysis is necessary to plan the need for fertilization, irrigation and other activities. nine0003

If the soil is poor, then pre-calculated doses of fertilizers should be applied before the autumn final tillage. It is not necessary to fertilize the entire area without analysis, it is easier to fertilize the planting pits, along with humus, slaked lime, pest and disease preparations.

When the soil is ready for planting seedlings of fruit and berry plants, the preparatory stage of laying out the garden is completed.

Drawing up a plan for planting fruit and berry crops

Drawing up a planting plan should begin with the placement of the garden: behind the house, in front of the house or on the side of the house. It is the placement of the house and outbuildings that affects snow retention. Ideally, plantings are planned so that the snow is evenly distributed between them throughout the garden.

Seedlings should be sorted according to photophilousness. Remember, sea buckthorn, chokeberry and red currant do not bear fruit in the shade, having increased requirements for lighting. Therefore, you should not plant them in the shade of a neighbor's fence or bath. nine0003 Plants do not grow well with a lack of light, so the garden should be light and spacious

One way or another, all garden plants do not grow well with a lack of light, bear fruit worse and winter poorly, being damaged by frost. If there is already a fruit orchard in the neighborhood, then you should plan the planting so that the neighboring plants will not be in the shade of your trees in a few years. Berries are planted at a distance of 1 m from the neighbor's fence, and fruit trees - at a distance of 2.5–3 m.

It is necessary to plant varieties of cherry, honeysuckle and sea buckthorn with different periods of flowering in a separate array in the border areas of the plots, creating favorable conditions for pollination and better fruiting of plants.

In the garden, it is worth allocating space for growing blueberries. Photo: The Spruce

For example, for honeysuckle, which is a self-fertile crop, the best pollinator varieties have not yet been identified, which means that effective pollination of honeysuckle can only be achieved by growing many varieties. nine0003

Planting fruit and berry plants, taking into account pollination by pollen from different garden plots, increases the yield of apple, pear, currant and other plants.

Allelopathy has not been canceled either, so it is worth focusing on the compatibility of plants with each other. After all, plants will grow side by side throughout life.

It is known that all plants always secrete compounds from the roots into the soil, and from the ground part into the air and onto the surface of the earth, compounds that can be toxic for some plants, and neutral or even stimulants for others. nine0003

If you had to uproot the stumps of trees or bushes that grew on the site before laying out the garden, you must definitely know the type of these plants. The fact is that after uprooting, long-term rotting remains of the roots always remain in the soil.

Isolation of the remains of common woody forest plants does not affect the growth of planted fruit and berry plants. However, the release of rotting residues of fruit plants, for example, pome plants, has a long-term depressing effect on newly planted new pome plants, but does not affect the growth of stone fruit plants here. That is, in such cases, it is necessary to replace seedlings of one breed with another, tolerant of the excretions of the remains of rotting roots. nine0003

Moisture-loving plants should be planted near water sources so as not to create headaches for decades to come.

Planting - the final stage of planning

When a detailed planting plan is drawn up, they begin to complete the layout of the garden - planting. It is desirable that the whole scheme be transferred to nature and fixed on the ground with the help of pegs with the names of the culture.

For spring planting of fruit and berry crops, planting pits are dug in the autumn of the previous year, for autumn planting - in the spring of this year. For six months, the soil and fertilizers mix well in a natural way and ripen - a useful microbiological environment is formed. nine0003

The pit must be round and the walls of the pit must be vertical. Excavated soil should not be dumped in one pile and mixed. Soil excavated from different depths differs in fertility.

The round shape of the planting hole is well suited for the development of the plant's root system. For planted plants, it is easier to feed - it is easier to determine the boundaries of the growth of horizontal roots.

The round shape of the planting hole is ideal for developing the root system of seedlings. Photo: fermilon.ru

The contours of the future pit are outlined with a shovel, cutting out a strip of turf. The soil taken out of the pit is placed on thick polyethylene, 3 × 4 meters in size, laid out to the left and right of the landing pit. nine0003

Nutrient soil must be prepared in advance from peat, compost, soddy soil. The approximate consumption for each pit is 300 kg of nutrient mixture.

150-200 kg of sand or clay may be needed, depending on the initial quality of the soil (clay is applied on sandy soils, and sand on clay soils).

Fresh manure and acidic peat must not be added to the soil mix. Peat is suitable only for weathered grassroots with a neutral pH reaction and a high calcium content.

Peat can be replaced with peat-dung component (humidity not more than 60%, ratio of manure and peat 3:1). nine0003 Do not deepen the root neck too much

Optimum soil acidity (pH):

If the soil is acidic, add 200-300 grams of wood ash per 1 m 2 to the soil mixture.

The sod is cut into pieces around the perimeter, removed and placed along the edges of the polyethylene film.

Learn more