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Bug repellent for plants natural


6 bug sprays for plants |

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While insects are a valuable part of our gardens' ecosystems, sometimes they end up tucking into our vegetable harvests or eating their way through our flower buds before they bloom. 

These moments can have us reaching for the insecticides. However, filled with toxic chemicals, commercial insecticides often stand at odds with the sustainable garden ideas that we want our plots to embody.

This is where homemade insect sprays and deterrents come into their own. Created from items you would find in your store cupboard, they are quick and effective ways to ward bugs off your prized plants. 

‘Homemade garlic, nettle, soap, tomato and basil sprays are effective against aphids, mites and thrips. The aim is not to kill off all the insects in your garden, but rather aim for a healthy ecosystem,’ says garden expert Leigh Clapp.

Bug sprays – 6 homemade recipes for plants

Homemade bug sprays should only be used as a short term solution – at the same time as treating pests, think of adding other plants to your garden that will encourage insects and animals that prey on the problem bug.  

‘Disaster-proof your garden through plant diversity. The wider the range of plants, the less they are plagued by pests, so that if a disease or pest occurs only a limited number of susceptible plants will be affected,’ continues Leigh. 

For example, if you want to get rid of slugs, can you attract more birds? If you need to get rid of aphids, could you plant angelica, fennel and dill nearby to attract ladybirds? There are lots of different companion planting ideas that will help you to reduce pests in your plot. By creating a balanced garden, you will find that you have less and less need for bug sprays. 

Before using any of these bug sprays on your plants, always do a patch-test. Spray a small amount onto a few leaves of the plant and wait 24 hours to see if there is any damage. Avoid using any foliar sprays during the heat of the day as the exposure to the sun can cause leaf burn. 

1. Insecticidal soap

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A popular bug spray for treating a wide range of pests, homemade insecticidal soap, consists of soap, oil and water. Homemade insecticidal soap is often the first port of call for many gardeners as the ingredients are all store cupboard essentials. 

To create insecticidal soap combine one cup of vegetable oil with one tablespoon of dishwashing soap or pure Castile liquid soap. For this method, as well as any others that call for dishwashing soap, avoid those that contain a degreaser or bleach as these can cause more harm than good. Use this oil and soap mixture as a concentrate and dilute one teaspoon with two cups of warm water into a spray bottle. Once mixed with water, the solution’s efficacy will only last for a day. 

Insecticidal soap is one of the best ways of getting rid of aphids, as well as lacebugs, leafhoppers, mealybugs and thrips.

2. Neem oil bug spray

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An organic insecticide, neem oil has seen a rise in popularity as a method to treat everything from insects through to fungi. 

‘Neem oil has been used in India for thousands of years and is a trusted method to keep on top of pests, without any of the nasties,’ explains John Maree, co-owner of OxyPlants . ‘A spray of Neem oil on the tops and undersides of your plant’s leaves will help remove several pests, including mites, whitefly, aphids, thrip, and mealybugs, at every stage in their life cycle. Using neem oil also helps to get rid of powdery mildew, too.’

To use neem oil as a homemade bug spray mix one to two tablespoons of pure, cold-pressed neem oil with a gallon of water. You can also add one to two teaspoons of dish soap to the mix to help the neem oil adhere to the plants. 

Alternatively, you can use neem oil as a root soak to treat root rot. Mix one gallon of water with two tablespoons of neem oil and one teaspoons of pure Castile liquid soap (to help the neem oil adhere). Apply a small amount as a test and wait 24 hours. If all is well, then apply two or three cups to the soil around the plant, then continue the treatment as a replacement to the watering cycle. 

A benefit of using neem oil over other pesticides is that it doesn't harm birds, pets or beneficial insects. This is because neem oil gets absorbed into the plant’s tissue rather than just sitting on the surface and so only affects any insects that ingest the plant. 

3. Vinegar spray

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It seems that there is no end to the abilities of vinegar, especially when you take into account the numerous ways of cleaning with vinegar, but did you know that it can also be used as a bug spray?

One of the easiest homemade bug sprays, simply mix one cup of white vinegar with three cups of water. You can also add half a teaspoon of dishwashing soap to help the solution adhere. Shake thoroughly and apply to the affected areas.

The acetic acid in the vinegar will treat a wide range of garden pests but it requires contact. If you have whitefly eggs be sure to spray under the leaves. Furthermore, white vinegar has a strong odor which has been reported to repel ants and other scent driven pests.

'If you are wanting to treat houseplants with a vinegar spray, try adding a few drops of essential oil or some slices of lemon peel or rosemary sprigs to help temper the vinegar smell,' advises Period Living editor Melanie Griffiths.

4. Garlic spray

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You may have heard that onions and garlic make good companion plants as the scent of their foliage helps to repel aphids, slugs and carrot fly. This spray takes it to the next level. 

‘Puree two garlic bulbs with one tablespoon of vegetable oil, let it sit overnight, strain, add one teaspoon of mild liquid soap and four cups of water to fill the spray container,’ recommends Leigh Clapp. 

Store this mixture in the fridge until needed. In the evening, spray both sides of the leaves with the spray and then reapply every few days when your plants are suffering with infestation. Alternatively, use every one to two weeks as a deterrent. 

If you want to be even more sustainable, why not learn how to grow garlic so that you can have an endless supply of garlic spray – plus extra cloves that you can add to your favorite meals?

5. Tomato leaf spray

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If you’ve ever tried growing tomatoes, you will be familiar with the characteristic scent of their leaves, but did you know that these leaves contain a compound called alkaloid which can be used to create a spray that is toxic to aphids and mites? To make a tomato leaf spray, mix equal quantities of chopped up tomato leaf with water and leave to steep overnight. Let this steep overnight, before straining into a spray bottle and applying to the plant’s leaves.

This is a great way to recycle tomato leaves once you've pruned them – you can learn how to prune tomato plants for a maximum yield.

6. Cinnamon spray

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If you’ve ever grown plants in pots, you’ll be familiar with the problem of stray mushrooms. However, this can be easily resolve with a simple cinnamon spray. Mix two teaspoons cinnamon powder into four cups of warm water. Allow this to steep overnight and then strain through a coffee filter and then pour into a spray bottle. Mist the potting soil and plants. 

Cinnamon spray is also reported to be an effective treatment to get rid of ants. If you have an ant problem in your pots or want to keep ants away from dining or patio areas, try applying cinnamon oil or powdered cinnamon to create an effective barrier.

What is a natural bug killer for plants?

Vinegar is a really effective natural bug killer for plants. Dilute it 1:1 with water in a spray bottle and spray it over and under the leaves of affected plants. You can also use it around the house to deter bugs inside; the vinegary smell will quickly dissipate.

You can also use a hydrogen peroxide and water solution, which is great when trying to get rid of bugs from houseplant soil. 

Which homemade bug spray is best for repelling mosquitoes?

The best homemade bug sprays for repelling mosquitoes are those with a strong smell that mosquitoes hate. Other than citronella, which you are probably already familiar with as a mosquito repellent, they include the following essential oils: 

Having graduated with a first class degree in English Literature four years ago, Holly started her career as a features writer and sub-editor at Period Living magazine, Homes & Gardens' sister title. Working on Period Living brought with it insight into the complexities of owning and caring for period homes, from interior decorating through to choosing the right windows and the challenges of extending. This has led to a passion for traditional interiors, particularly the country-look. Writing for the Homes & Gardens website as a content editor, alongside regular features for Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors magazines, has enabled her to broaden her writing to incorporate her interests in gardening, wildlife and nature. 

Natural Insecticides: All About DIY Bug Sprays for Plants

In an episode of the TV show Silicon Valley, Gilfoyle, an overwhelmed software coder, rushes to debug some mission-critical software against a looming deadline. Running out of time, Gilfoyle hits upon a brilliant solution — write an artificial intelligence (AI) script to find and remove the bugs as efficiently as possible.

It works, and the script gets rid of all the software bugs in mere seconds. There’s just one “minor” issue — in its quest for efficiency, it deletes the bugs by deleting all the software. No more code, so no more bugs.

Oops.

Gardeners also struggle against bugs. If you try to grow your own food, you’ll find plenty of competition for those yummy calories among the denizens of the insect kingdom. You’ll also find plenty of weapons to help you prevail — the home and garden pesticides market generates almost $8 billion in sales worldwide. Unfortunately, many of the products that make up that market cause almost as much collateral damage as Gilfoyle’s bug-destroying AI. In addition to harming the environment and compromising human health, some of them actually exacerbate insect problems in the long run by destroying your garden’s natural defenses against insect predation.

Are there ways to protect your hard-earned crops without hurting your garden, your health, and the balance of nature? In this article, we’ll look at a natural insect repellent for plants and nontoxic formulas you can create from things you may already have, like vinegar, soap, and garlic. These natural insecticides can help you reap a harvest that supports not only your health but the well-being of the entire ecosystem as well.

The Challenge of Gardening: Hungry Pests

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Gardening is one of the most popular hobbies out there. It gained new adherents during the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic as people sought a way to reduce their dependence on the industrial food supply chain, and its appeal as a pastime and supplemental income source (especially if you count healthy calories as a source of income) appears to be lasting.

It’s no wonder. Gardening provides many benefits, in addition to the obvious one of fresh, delicious, healthy food at your fingertips. It’s good for your mood, your microbiome, your stress levels, and your cardiovascular system. It puts you in touch with nature and the unique qualities of your bioregion and microclimate (what you could call “terroir,” as long as you say it with a very heavy French accent).

There is one significant downside to growing food in a home garden, however — you have to deal with pests (well, you do if you hope to reap what you sow).

And while lots of critters — from deer who will happily jump an eight-foot fence to nibble at your sweet potato greens to neighboring cats who view your raised herb bed as the ultimate litter box — can be considered pests, the most difficult to deal with are typically the tiny critters. Specifically, I’m talking about insects.

Insects, as everyone knows who’s read their Wikipedia entry, are “pancrustacean hexapod invertebrates of the class Insecta.” In other words, boneless six-legged critters with outer shells.

There are a lot of insects out there. While all the humans on the planet weigh, collectively, about 287 million metric tons, it turns out that spiders eat two to three times that amount of insects every single year. So putting all of us on one side of a balance scale and all the insects on the other would be about as lopsided as a grasshopper doing the same thing with you.

And many insects eat plants. In fact, many of their favorite plants are our favorite plants as well. So when you grow crops outdoors, you’re essentially ceding the home-field advantage to the myriad species of insects that have unfettered access to all the yummies you’ve planted.

To regain the upper hand and protect their crops, many home gardeners apply insecticides and other pesticides to their garden beds to control those pests. But many of the most popular formulas, including the pyrethroid insecticides (such as the ominously named Anvil, Scourge, and Fumakilla), may harm the environment and compromise your health.

Fortunately, you don’t have to choose between toxic compounds and a garden destroyed by pests. You can deploy some highly effective and very safe homemade insecticides in your vegetable garden.

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Before we get into the specific formulas, we need to get clear on the difference between pesticides and insecticides. “Pesticide” is a broad term that includes insecticides as well as herbicides and fungicides. They are formulated to deter pests of all sorts, including insects and other bugs, weeds and other plants, fungus and mold, and even larger animals that like to snack on plants.

Insecticides, by contrast, are meant to deter or eliminate just insects, those small invertebrates with six legs that may or may not have wings. In other words, all insecticides are pesticides, but not all pesticides are insecticides.

Why are Insecticides Used?

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The simplest answer is to remove insects from a plant. It might just be a few bugs, or it could be a large-scale infestation. If the little critters were just using your plants as a walkway, it wouldn’t be an issue. But insects often have mischief on their minds (at least from the gardener’s perspective).

Insects may eat entire leaves, or chew holes in them, which can keep the plant from photosynthesizing. They may suck the nutrients from the plant, keeping it from bearing fruit. They might eat the edible parts of the plant, such as the tomato and cucumber fruit, or broccoli florets. And they might act so destructively that they kill the entire plant.

The best way to get insects off your plants is not to let them get on your plants in the first place. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Ideally, gardeners use insecticides not as their entire insect-fighting strategy, but as part of a systematic approach, such as that prescribed by integrated pest management (IPM).

IPM attempts to keep insect damage to a minimum while at the same time minimizing the hazards to people, property, and the environment. Rather than just pouring poison on the offending pest population, an IPM-minded gardener might recruit beneficial insects and other organisms to help keep the pest species in check. For example, ladybug larvae love to feast on plant-destroying aphids, and praying mantids will happily gobble up moths and beetles.

Other IPM techniques mimic the ways nature keeps pest populations from exploding — rotating crops between different areas of the garden, selecting pest-resistant plant varieties, interspersing onions, garlic, or other plants that tend to deter insects, and planting pest-resistant rootstock.

Ultimately, pest infestations in your garden are a lot like infections in your body — they take hold when the native immune system is compromised. And if the best way to keep your body infection-free is to live a healthy lifestyle — including fresh air, sunlight, healthy food, clean water, and emotional support — the best way to keep insects from eating all your crops is to create a healthy environment for those crops.

This includes nurturing healthy soil, allowing sufficient space between the plants, removing large weeds so your plants can “breathe,” and harvesting fully so you don’t leave rotting leaves or fruits that can attract pests.

Even with all those strategies in place, you may still face unacceptable levels of insect damage. In those cases, a homemade natural insecticide can be a useful tool in your toolbox.

Why Choose a Natural Insecticide?

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Conventional agriculture around the world relies heavily on synthetic insecticides. And through years of observation and research, we’ve developed a clear understanding of the negative long-term effects of many of these compounds on people, animals, and the environment.

Synthetic insecticides can contribute to water and air pollution. And these chemicals may remain on edible portions of plants when harvested and consumed, despite your best efforts to wash them off.

Spraying insecticides puts farmers and farmworkers at risk, as they can cause harm via skin or eye contact, or when inhaled. And there’s plenty of evidence that these chemicals can waft into nearby homes, where their concentrations and harms can be amplified.

Broad-spectrum insecticides don’t just target the pests you’re trying to get rid of. They can also harm beneficial insects such as pollinators (bees and butterflies), without whose help you may not have anything to harvest at all.

And just as broad-spectrum antibiotics kill your gut bacteria indiscriminately and wipe out as many beneficial as harmful microbes, chemical insecticides can kill beneficial critters in your garden and decimate its natural defenses. This perpetuates a vicious cycle in which you must continue to apply more and more insecticides because the garden ecosystem has lost its ability to defend itself.

In contrast to commercial insect-killers, the best natural insecticides use safe, generally nontoxic ingredients that will not harm humans or most other animals (we’ve got some cautions for you below). Neither do they hurt creatures that prey on the insects, or the soil or water in the garden. This is why they are allowed in organic farming and gardening.

So let’s look at some different bug sprays and insecticides you can DIY. You’ll not only save time and money, but you’ll also protect your health and the environment (and your garden!).

DIY Bug Spray Safety

Before we begin, a few cautionary notes. While homemade insecticides are typically far safer than industrial ones, you still want to treat them with respect and follow sound safety protocols. Label them, so you don’t confuse them with other household liquids. (“Is that cayenne pepper spray or contact lens solution? Oh, well, only one way to find out.”)

And keep your natural insecticides away from children, as they can irritate skin and mucous membranes.

Some of the sprays can be harmful to companion animals. Dogs and cats are susceptible to allium toxicosis (what veterinarians call “garlic poisoning”) and can experience digestive upset if they consume chili peppers.

Tomato leaves are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, and can lead to drowsiness, stomach pain, and breathing difficulties.

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Insecticidal Soap Spray

It couldn’t be easier to make this insecticide, which works on small, soft-bodied insects like mites, aphids, thrips, mealybugs, whiteflies, and immature leafhoppers. (Immature ones don’t have wings, and also probably shout, “Hey, Mom, look how high I can jump!” a lot.)

This insecticidal soap recipe works by dissolving their exoskeletons, which dehydrates and desiccates them.

Also known as horticultural soap, this homemade aphid spray is non-toxic to animals and birds and doesn’t harm beneficial insects. While you can buy it commercially, it’s cheaper and just as effective to make your own.

The formula for a DIY spray for plants couldn’t be simpler:

Make sure the dish soap doesn’t have petroleum-based ingredients, added fragrances, or essential oils. ECOS and Dr. Bronner’s are well-known brands that offer unscented varieties.

To use the DIY soap spray, cover any infested plants evenly, from top to bottom. Make sure the insects get good and wet.

Cayenne Pepper Spray

Nothing says you mean business like hosing down some garden pests with hot pepper spray. It repels insects like aphids, beetles, leafhoppers, and spittlebugs (which live up to their disgusting name with the revolting habit of leaving frothy mounds of spittle on the plants they’ve been enjoying — as you can tell, I’m not a fan). Of course, hot pepper also repels most mammals, including deer, squirrels, and domestic pets.

It’s the capsaicin in the peppers that does the trick; a natural irritant, it produces a burning sensation upon contact that acts as an effective deterrent to munching, nibbling, and, yes, producing gobs of spittle.

To make the spray, mix two tablespoons of powdered cayenne pepper into a gallon of water. Add a couple of drops of unscented soap to help the liquid stick to leaves, stems, and fruits. Whisk it thoroughly, let it sit overnight to grow ornery, and then use a funnel to get it into your spray bottle.

Alternatively, you can also use commercially manufactured hot sauce that contains capsaicin. The higher the Scoville number, the more firepower the sauce contains. Fun fact — cayenne peppers clock in at about 50,000 Scovilles, while the Carolina Reaper, according to the Guinness World Records the hottest chili pepper in the world, rings the bell at 2,200,000 Scovilles. Just thinking about this pepper can make your eyes water.

Be very careful when you handle this stuff. Keep it away from your eyes, and wash your hands thoroughly after touching cayenne or other whole, liquified, or powdered hot peppers. Do not rub your eye or scratch your nose unless you want to start an impromptu therapy session that involves lots of crying and a bunch of primal screams thrown in for good measure. And, not to be too graphic about it, making this spray is not something I recommend doing in the nude.

If you grow your own cayenne peppers, you can make a fresh cayenne spray by blending (keep that lid on good and tight!) a half cup of fresh peppers in two cups of water, then adding a couple of drops of soap. Unless you have a really good blender, however, you may find it difficult to use this mixture in a spray bottle without the bottle nozzle clogging.

You can also benefit from the deterrent effects of hot peppers by interplanting them directly in your garden beds, in between crops that might otherwise get bothered by those aphids, beetles, and spittlebugs.

Garlic Spray

Shocking, I know — not every creature loves the smell and taste of garlic! Rather than try to educate the palates of mealworms, aphids, mites, caterpillars, armyworms, cutworms, beetles, slugs, mosquitoes, and flies, you can take advantage of that fact by making your own garlic spray.

It turns out that the same compounds in garlic — sulfur and allicin — which are so beneficial to human health, offend the noses of flying and crawling insects. The Very Hungry Caterpillars and other critters that are far cuter in children’s books than in your cabbage patch will seek other plants to eat and on which to lay their eggs.

Make garlic spray by adding crushed or finely chopped garlic cloves to a bowl, covering them with boiling water, and letting the mixture sit until the water cools. Then strain the mixture and pour it into a spray bottle.

You can adjust the strength of the spray. A weak preventive mix can include six cloves of garlic for every gallon of water. To treat an infestation, make a concentrated spray consisting of two full heads of garlic pureed into half a cup of water.

Garlic spray doesn’t work against burrowing pests like voles and moles, but you can plant garlic bulbs around a plant to deter those kinds of pests. Garlic spray can also deter pollinators, so be judicious when and where you apply it. Otherwise, you may end up with a garden full of squash, cucumber, melon, and okra plants that don’t bear fruit.

Vinegar Bug Spray

Slugs, moths, aphids, and ants are among the garden pests who don’t like vinegar at all. A vinegar spray will deter these and other insects, but make sure to dilute your solution to reduce acidity. Because vinegar is a strong acid, it can kill plants if you don’t cut it sufficiently with water.

Start with food-grade vinegar, which itself is typically around 5% acetic acid. While any vinegar will work, white and apple cider vinegars are the cheapest, so no need to use up that $100 bottle of 20-year-old aged Italian balsamic to get the slugs off your tomatoes.

Mix two-thirds of a cup of vinegar in four cups of water, along with a few drops of liquid soap to help the mixture adhere to the plants and to deter more types of insects. Once it’s in the spray bottle, test the mixture on a leaf or small area of a plant and leave it there for at least a few hours to make sure it isn’t harming the plant before spraying on the rest of your plants.

Tomato Leaf Spray

Those sweet and innocent-looking tomato plants in your garden actually pack an insecticidal punch of their own, which they store in their leaves. As members of the nightshade family, which sounds pretty scary if you ask me (but really it isn’t — here’s our article on edible nightshade plants), tomato leaves contain alkaloids like solanine, tomatine, and even nicotine. These substances are toxic to spider mites, aphids, and other soft-bodied insects.

Make tomato leaf spray by chopping about two cups of leaves and soaking them overnight in about two cups of water. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth or a fine strainer and pour into a spray bottle, adding another cup of water to the mixture before using.

Last Word: Before You Spray Organic Pesticides, Test

If you garden, then pest control comes with the territory, especially in a vegetable garden where you want to reap the benefits of your hard work. While insects are part of the experience (and from an ecological perspective, an incredibly important part of the web of life), there are ways to share your garden that still give you lots of healthy and delicious produce.

The best way to keep insects from eating all your hard-earned vegetable crops is to nurture healthy soil, remove dead leaves and fruits, and utilize other pest-preventive practices. But even with all that, you still may need some extra help at times. While conventional pesticides, including synthetic insecticides, can harm humans, animals, and the environment, you can make natural insecticides using things you may already have at home.

Before applying any kind of insecticide in your garden, make sure to test a small area first, and use protective measures (such as wearing gloves and long sleeves) before applying. Keep children and pets away from plants while you’re spraying, as well as from the insecticides themselves. And depending on what you’ve used, and how much you like the taste of garlic, cayenne, and vinegar, you may want to wash any treated plants before eating them.

Tell us in the comments:

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Bona Forte natural insect repellent spray, 500 ml in Moscow - prices, specifications, reviews

Courier available: in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Khabarovsk

Bona Forte natural insect repellent spray, 500 ml

Product description "Bona Forte natural insect repellent spray, 500 ml"

Distinctive features of Bona Forte spray

Ingredients: natural pyrethrins, stabilizer, emulsifier, synergist, water. Natural feverfew is considered one of the most potent insecticides. It is worth noting that insects do not get used to pyrethrins. The active components of the spray quickly decompose, they do not harm human health, do not accumulate in the environment.

Insecticide "Bona Forte"

Recommended for the protection of indoor plants, ornamental flowers growing outdoors. This spray has been proven to be effective in instantly killing many types of insects.

The components of the spray through the skin penetrate into the body of pests and paralyze them. The spray is effective against the following types of insects: caterpillars, bedbugs, whiteflies, leaf beetles, flies, centipedes, moths, aphids, spider mites, flower beetles, etc.

Application of Bona Forte Insect Repellent Spray

Shake the bottle before use. It is recommended to process plants in the early morning or evening. Do not use in bright sunlight. Indoor plants should stand separately, avoid close placement near heat sources (batteries) and air currents (open window, balcony).

Spray insecticide no closer than 30 cm from the plant. Carry out circular pollination, paying attention to the lower leaves. If you want to destroy insects that live in the open field, you should spray the soil.

Carefully spray plants with thin, delicate leaves, avoid contact with flowers.

Benefits of Bona Forte insecticide

Bona Forte spray kills pests quickly and is absolutely harmless to humans. Does not pollute the environment, decomposes in a short time. Economically spent.

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Against most insect pests, including soil midges

Natural growth and development stimulator of various crops based on succinic acid

Means for changing the color of hydrangea inflorescences with pink petals to blue/blue

For all types of crops

Used for soaking and germinating seeds, root feeding of seedlings during their development, for healthy plant nutrition throughout their entire life span

For all types of orchids

For feeding vegetables, fruit and berries and ornamental crops

For pre-sowing treatment and feeding vegetables, berries, flowers and houseplants, for soaking seeds, tillage and plants

Food bait to control moles, shrews, mice and rats

To control rats and house mice

To control rats and house mice

Bait to exterminate mice and rats gerbils, bank voles and ground squirrels (small mountain, long-tailed)

For the control of house mice

For the destruction of black and gray rats, voles, ground squirrels, as well as house mice

Against moles

To kill mice

To accelerate the natural processes in compost pits

For latrines

Biological product for toilets and fast acting pit latrines

For country toilets, septic tanks, latrines

preparation of compost

Preparation for combating fungal diseases: root and fruit rot, blackleg, macrosporiosis, fusarium, late blight, anthracnose, wilt, etc.

Against powdery mildew, gray mold, anthracnose, goblet rust, columnar rust, leaf septoria, purple spot, leaf rust

For treatment and healing of wounds of ornamental and fruit trees after pruning, grafting, wind damage, as well as wounds caused by sunburn

For healing wounds of fruit and ornamental trees caused by grafting, budding or pruning, sunburn

To prevent infection of seedlings with soil infections (rot, scab, fusarium, mold)

From late blight, macrosporiosis, peronosporosis, septoria, black bacterial spot, mildia.

To combat pathogens of late blight and peronosporosis resistant to other drugs, as well as mildew

Used to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases

From various diseases - moniliosis, various rot, penicillosis

Against gray and white rot, downy mildew, early blight, late blight, peronosporosis, black spot

Against diseases (scab, powdery mildew, phytophthora, rust, etc.) thrips, sawflies, suckers, etc. sucking)

To protect trees from insects, from fungal and bacterial infections, from lichens, from frost and temperature extremes,

shrub vegetation. hogweed, dandelion, sow thistle, couch grass, goutweed, nettle, ragweed

Designed for the destruction of annual and perennial grass and dicotyledonous weeds, herbaceous and tree-shrub vegetation

For the destruction of flying and crawling insects (cockroaches, ants, wood lice, moths, flies, mosquitoes, etc.)

For the destruction of non-flying insects (ants, bugs, cockroaches, fleas, skin beetles) and flying (flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, moths) insects

For the destruction of crawling insects (cockroaches, ants, bedbugs, etc.) and flying insects (flies, mosquitoes)

For the destruction of flying and non-flying insects - flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, butterflies, moths, cockroaches, bed bugs, fleas, ants

For the destruction of all flying and crawling insects

Universal agent for the destruction of any flying and crawling insects

For protection against the attack of midges

beetle, aphids and moths

Bait against mole cricket, wireworm, Colorado potato beetle

Powder-bait for fighting garden and house ants, as well as other crawling parasitic insects

Means for fighting flying insects: flies, midges, wasps, etc. in the form of a trap on sticky tape

Activates growth processes, accelerates flowering and ripening, increases yield, normalizes soil microflora, and also helps plants to endure stress more easily, as well as recover after transplantation or adverse conditions

Increases seed germination, strengthens the root system and bushiness, increases resistance to diseases and weather stresses

Bait for rats, mice, voles and other mouse-like

For the destruction of rodents: rats, house mice, voles

To prevent overgrowth of seedlings ( inhibits the growth of the plant in length, but increases the growth in width)

For the destruction of annual and perennial grasses and dicotyledonous weeds, as well as unwanted tree and shrub vegetation in personal subsidiary farms. Destroys more than 155 species of weeds, incl. bindweed, thistle, wheatgrass and others

For the destruction of ixodid ticks in home gardens, cottages and gardens

It is used to control pests: thrips, aphids, caterpillars, leafworms, cabbage, apple and fruit moths, onion flies, spider mites, whiteflies, slugs, suckers, etc. e

Designed to improve the appearance of ornamental and flowering houseplants, enhance their growth, increase resistance to diseases and pests

For use in storage cisterns of dry closets, cottage sewage systems

Used to combat powdery mildew, scab, late blight and other fungal diseases of plants burns

It is used to combat scab, powdery mildew, leaf curl, white, perforated and brown spotting, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis, moniliosis, late blight, cercosporosis

Plant protection against aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, wireworms, mites, whiteflies, midges, moths, flies, leaf beetles, cutworms, cockroaches, fleas, wasps, mosquitoes, Maybugs), as well as an auxiliary agent that increases the effectiveness of chemical protection products

Means for the treatment of non-residential basements, cellars, greenhouses, greenhouses, from diseases, insects, rodents (hogweed)

For seedlings of vegetable, flower crops, pot plants, garden plants, shrubs

From bedbugs, fleas, cockroaches, ants, leather beetles, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, midges

whiteflies, spiders, carrot flies, Colorado beetles, aphids and moths

For the control of insects, pests and the protection and disinfection of trees

Against all types of ants, in particular against black, garden and red house ants and against cockroaches

For the control of red house and black garden ants, bed bugs, fleas, cellar mosquito larvae and houseflies fleas and flies (larvae and adults)

Preparation for complex protection of potatoes against diseases, Colorado potato beetle, wireworm and weather stresses

For the destruction of mice, gray and black rats with a mummifying effect

For control of gray and black rats, house mice, voles, other mouse-like rodents

For control of house mice, field mice, gray and black rats

Used to get rid of moles and red house ants, against cockroaches

Suitable for both treatment and prevention of late blight, alternariosis, peronosporosis and other diseases, on potatoes and tomatoes in open ground, on onions (on turnips) and cucumbers in open ground

From diseases (rhizoctoniosis, common scab) and pests (Colorado potato beetle, aphids), including those living in the soil (wireworm) etc. , and as a fertilizer, pouring into the soil before digging in spring or autumn

To protect people from the attack of blood-sucking insects (midges, mosquitoes, midges, mosquitoes, horseflies, fleas), forest and taiga ticks

Against the Colorado potato beetle and leaf-eating caterpillars for use in agriculture and in personal subsidiary plots

Destroy most common pests: apple flower beetle, various types of scale insects, aphids, thrips, leafworms, cutworms, whites, moths, cruciferous fleas, weevils, etc.

Effectively fights against a complex of pests: whitefly, aphid, thrips, codling moth, leafworm, apple flower beetle, mites, sprout fly, Colorado potato beetle, raspberry-strawberry weevil, etc.

For the destruction of nests of garden and house ants, cockroaches, fleas, flies, wood lice, earwigs, crickets and other insects , bedbugs, sawflies, caterpillars, aphids and other sucking pests

Intended for the destruction of cockroaches, bedbugs, fleas, flies, ants (red house and various garden species) and rat mites

For treatment of cesspools, septic tanks, sewer systems

For protection against pests of most horticultural and horticultural crops - cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, apple trees, currants, raspberries, flowers, etc.

mealybug, spider mite, whitefly, Colorado potato beetle, tortoise bug, wireworm, thrips, cabbage butterfly

Restores soil balance in microelement composition, prevents a number of fungal and viral diseases. Designed for pre-sowing (pre-planting) treatment of seeds and planting material, fertilizing vegetables, fruits, berries, flowers cult

For indoor and garden plants

For country toilets, septic tanks, bio-toilets, latrines

Means for fighting slugs, snails on flowers, fruit and berry crops food, in the practice of medical disinsection by specialists of organizations that have the right to engage in disinfection activities, and the population in everyday life

Means for combating flying insects: flies, midges, wasps, etc.

For quick and effective extermination of cockroaches

Against all types of rodents - gray and black rats, mice, voles, moles and ground squirrels for the destruction of synanthropic insects (cockroaches, ants and winged flies)

For the prevention of plant diseases. Warns, destroys and repels pests: aphids, mites, butterflies, beetles and even rodents

For home ornamental flowers and plants in the garden

Natural, environmentally friendly product with a specific smell to protect garden plants from pests and rodents

Stimulates the growth and development of plants, maintains leaf elasticity (turgor), reduces dust settling, strengthens the immunity of plants

For the prevention of infection by insect pests and for giving shine to the leaves

Designed to protect vegetable, berry, ornamental, fruit crops from a wide range of soil pests (bearworm, beetle, wireworm, weevil, onion fly, etc. .)

Mineral-oil emulsion of vaseline oil to control wintering stages of insect pests: Scale insects, false scale insects, mites, aphids, mealybugs, as well as eggs of insect pests

Used to change and maintain the blue color of large-leaved hydrangeas

Highly effective preparation with a triple combination active substances for the destruction of the Colorado potato beetle and its larvae on potatoes during the growing season.

To protect wool, fur, felt and felt products from moths

The drug has an intestinal mechanism of action and is effective against insects of any age. For the fight against insect caterpillars moths, silkworms, scoops, nuns, meadow moths, leafworms, hawthorn, butterflies, moths, etc. to protect coniferous crops from a wide range of pests: hermes, aphids, sawflies, scale insects, etc.

For prolonged protection of coniferous and deciduous trees, as well as perennial flowers from diseases: snow, brown, gray, common schütte (shedding needles), rust on conifers

Used on garden paths and paths, along fences and hedges, on the blind areas of houses, foundation cracks, near greenhouses and between ridges

To control snails and slugs on plants

To kill wasps and various types of flies

To kill ants (domestic and garden), as well as flies, wood lice, fleas, cockroaches, crickets

flies, centipedes, moths, flies, spider mites, sawflies, cutworms, aphids, thrips, tubeworm, earwigs,

Ready-to-use grain bait with a mummifying effect for the destruction of house mice, voles and other mouse-like rodents, as well as gray and black rats

Used to combat various crop diseases: late blight, coccomycosis, scab, rust, leaf curl, black rot , mildew, anthracnose, various types of leaf spot and needles

Designed for the treatment of agricultural products from fungal infections (fusarium, phomosis, or gangrene, oosporosis, dry rot, all types of clamp rot, gray rot, etc.

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