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Best spray to kill ivy


English Ivy Control | Home & Garden Information Center

English ivy (Hedera helix) has spread into a bed and is beginning to compete with and shade out ornamental coral bells (Heuchera americana ‘Dale’s Strain’).
Joey Williamson, ©2014 HGIC, Clemson Extension

English ivy (Hedera helix) is an evergreen vine that has been planted for many decades in South Carolina communities as a shade-loving groundcover. It is fast-growing, drought-tolerant, and generally maintenance-free, as it rarely has insect pest or disease problems. However, its mat-forming growth habit allows it to smother out perennials and smaller shrubs in the landscape.

English ivy (Hedera helix) has climbed and is smothering a mature oak by blocking out sunlight.
Joey Williamson, ©2014 HGIC, Clemson Extension

English ivy tends to climb anything it can for support, such as fences, homes, or trees. This ivy is unique in its ability to attach to objects by producing aerial rootlets from the stems that cement themselves to the object. On trees, English ivy travels quickly to the top in order to flower and set fruit. The fruit is eaten and disseminated by birds. Tree limbs covered with English ivy are often smothered, as the dense ivy foliage covers the tree’s foliage.

If English ivy is allowed to grow up the side of a home, the attachment of the aerial rootlets can damage stucco, wood, or the mortar of brick homes. The dense foliage makes for a haven for insects and small animals, and the shading may trap moisture that can cause damage from rot.

Although it may take a few years for a house to be engulfed with English ivy (Hedera helix), damage can occur where it does adhere to wood, stucco, or mortar.

Many retail stores sell miniature-leafed or variegated ivies, which make for nice house plants. However, sometimes these plants are added to the landscape intentionally or by the containers being placed outside where the ivy grows beyond the container and takes root in the soil. Both the miniature-leafed and the variegated ivy cultivars are slower-growing plants. The problem that can arise from these plants is that when grown outside, sooner or later, these cultivars with smaller, white, or yellow leaves may revert to the large-leafed, totally green, and fast-growing type of English ivy. The resulting larger-leafed, green vines will outgrow the more decorative cultivars planted initially, and they quickly get out of control.

Slower growing, variegated forms of English ivy, such as this Gold Heart ivy (Hedera helix ‘Gold Heart’), typically revert into the totally green and more aggressive form. The greater amount of chlorophyll within the totally green leaves allows for faster growth.
Joey Williamson, ©2014 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Cultural Control of English Ivy

The proper method of cutting and controlling English ivy (Hedera helix) growing up trees.
Joey Williamson, ©2014 HGIC, Clemson Extension

The first step is to sever the vines of the English ivy that have climbed trees in the landscape. Viney stems of the ivy are attached tightly and must be pried up from the trunk to be cut. A large flat-bladed screwdriver can lift and help make the vines easier to cut with pruners. Cut these vines several feet up the trunk at a height that is comfortable to attain. Then loosen the vines below these cuts and pull them down from the trunk. Cut them off at the base of the tree.

Larger vines may require the use of a saw, but be careful not to damage the tree trunk. Removal of the vines can be done at any time of the year. The hotter and drier the weather, the faster the remaining sections of vines up the trunk will die.

A thick mat of English ivy (Hedera helix) covered the ground and shaded out the original plantings.
Joey Williamson, ©2014 HGIC, Clemson Extension

English ivy on the ground is usually easier to pull up after rains have softened the soil. If pulling is done during the winter, any perennials in these beds are less apt to be damaged while they are dormant. The ivy stems are strong and not deeply rooted; therefore, long sections can be pulled up at a time. Be sure to wear a long-sleeved shirt and gloves, as the sap from English ivy may cause dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Chemical Control of English Ivy

Herbicides may be required for the control of large areas of English ivy. The spring is the best time to apply an herbicide when 3 to 5 new leaves appear on the English ivy vines. This new growth does not yet have the waxy cuticle covering present on the older leaves, which allows for better penetration of herbicides. Alternatively, the English ivy can be mowed or cut back with a string trimmer. When new growth appears, herbicides can be sprayed. Mix and spray a 2 or 3 % solution of glyphosate for best results. Always follow label directions for mixing, use, and safety. Watch for new growth from areas missed or inadequately sprayed because of multiple layers of vines and foliage, and then repeat the application of glyphosate.

Glyphosate is a general, non-selective, systemic herbicide that has the least soil activity and is less harmful to the roots of nearby trees and shrubs than other herbicides. If desirable plants are in the beds, spraying may be done before perennials appear in the spring, or individual plants may be covered with plant containers. Spray when temperatures are above 55 to 60 ºF. Repeated treatments will probably be required. Do not allow spray to contact the foliage, stems, exposed roots, or the trunks of desirable shrubs or trees. A glyphosate solution may penetrate the bark of many landscape trees, causing injury. Examples of products containing glyphosate are listed in Table 1.

Triclopyr is the active ingredient in many brands of brush killers and is a systemic, broadleaf plant herbicide that can be used for English ivy control. Apply a 2 to 5% triclopyr solution in the spring as new growth appears (3 to 5 new leaves per vine). Always follow label directions for mixing, use, and safety. Watch for new growth from areas missed or inadequately sprayed because of multiple layers of vines and foliage, and then repeat the application of triclopyr.

Triclopyr may remain in the soil slightly longer than glyphosate, but if applied during moist and warm conditions, microbial degradation is much more rapid so that it is less apt to affect the roots of nearby desirable plants. Triclopyr is applied as a spray, but do not allow the spray to contact tree trunks or exposed tree roots. Do not apply triclopyr if air temperatures are higher than 85 ºF, as there may be increased volatility of the sprayed product that might affect nearby broadleaf plants.

Caution: Pollinating insects, such as honey bees and bumblebees, can be adversely affected by pesticides. Avoid the use of spray pesticides (both insecticides and fungicides), as well as soil-applied, systemic insecticides unless necessary. If spraying is required, always spray late in the evening to reduce the direct impact on pollinating insects. However, it is very important always to read and follow the label directions on each product. For more information, contact the Clemson Extension Home & Garden Information Center.

Table 1. Herbicides for the Control of English Ivy in Residential Landscapes.

Active Ingredient Examples of Brands In Homeowner Sizes
Glyphosate Ace Concentrate Weed & Grass Killer (41%)
Bonide KleenUp Weed & Grass Killer 41% Super Concentrate
Eliminator Grass & Weed Killer Super Concentrate (41%)
Gordon’s Groundwork Concentrate 50% Super Weed & Grass Killer
Gordon’s Pronto Big N’ Tuf 41% Glyphosate Weed & Grass Killer
Gly Star Plus Glyphosate Herbicide (41%)
Glypho-Max (41%)
Hi Yield Kill-Zall Aquatic Herbicide (53.8%)
Martin’s Eraser Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate (41%)
Monterey Remuda Full Strength (41%)
Roundup Original (41%)
Southern Ag Weed Pro Glyphosate (41%)
Southern States Grass & Weed Killer Concentrate (41%)
Surrender Brand Eraser Systemic Weed & Grass Killer (41%)
Tiger Brand Quick Kill Grass & Weed Killer (41%)
Ultra Kill Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate (41%)
Zep Enforcer Weed Defeat Concentrate (41%)
Triclopyr Bayer Advanced Brush Killer Plus Concentrate; & RTS
(8. 8%)
Ortho GroundClear Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer Concentrate (8.0%)
Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover, & Oxalis Killer for Lawns Concentrate (8.0%)
Ferti-lome Brush Killer Stump Killer Concentrate (8.8%)
Southern Ag Brush Killer (8.8%)
Hi-Yield Triclopyr Ester Ultra Herbicide (61.6%)
Monterey Turflon Ester Specialty Herbicide (61.6%)
RTS = Ready to Spray (a hose-end spray bottle).

Pesticides are updated annually. Last updates were done on 7/21 by Joey Williamson.

Originally published 05/09

If this document didn’t answer your questions, please contact HGIC at [email protected] or 1-888-656-9988.

How to Kill Ivy - Bob Vila

Photo: istockphoto.com

Characterized by its showy, star-shaped foliage, English ivy (Hedera helix) might seem a fine choice for landscaping as a potted plant, ground cover, or groomed exterior wall accent—but don’t let down your guard just yet. Left unchecked, the evergreen perennial can become an invasive enemy to your yard. Ivy knows no bounds: It grows quickly in all directions, both horizontally and vertically, clinging to other vegetation and depriving it of all sunlight. If the vining plant doesn’t smother and kill trees, shrubs, and grass, it’ll infect them with rot or disease. If you’ve already seen such destruction, save your property from the aggressive greenery by following these steps for how to kill ivy and prevent its return.

  1. Don appropriate protective gear for the project choose a day with suitable weather.
  2. Detach the ivy from the surface on which it’s been growing.
  3. Dispose of the ivy with your household trash (i.e., do not compost ivy).
  4. Apply herbicide to the area in order to kill remaining roots.
  5. Monitor the area (and repeat Steps 2 and 3 if necessary)

Read on for the full tutorial on how to remove ivy from your house or yard—and just as important, how to prevent it from returning.

Tools & Materials

STEP 1: Protect yourself and your plants

First things first: Protect yourself and your plants. To do so, suit up in gardening gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants—exposed skin may be bothered by the oil that ivy secretes. Then choose a day with the right forecast to ensure no mishaps during chemical treatment. Topical chemicals used for killing ivy are only effective when the temperature is somewhere between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll also want to work on a day with minimal wind in order to prevent any chemicals from blowing onto nearby gardens and landscaping.

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Photo: istockphoto.com

STEP 2: Detach the ivy

Detach the ivy from the surface that it’s covering, whether across the lawn or up a tree.

STEP 3: Dispose of the ivy

Bag up the ivy and throw it away. If you leave your detached ivy in clumps on your property, it can quickly snake its way back into the ground or up a tree trunk, undoing your hard work. (It can even take root in your compost pile, so do not don’t try to compost ivy!)

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STEP 4: Apply herbicide

Select a herbicide made with glyphosate, imazapyr, triclopyr, or some combination of these chemicals, all of which target the ivy roots. Ortho GroundClear Vegetation Killer (view on Amazon) works well for the purpose.

If you prefer a more natural approach, you can substitute vinegar in a large spray bottle instead. Application for either is fairly simple: Thoroughly cover the whole area you’ve freed from the ivy with the liquid. If working on a tree, also cover the bottom foot or so of the vines remaining on the tree.

Herbicide alone isn’t necessarily the best way to kill ivy, because the waxy cover on ivy leaves blocks the chemical from properly attacking the root system. But by applying the deterrent soon after removing ivy from a tree or ground (Step 2), you can increase the commercial or DIY herbicide’s effectiveness.

STEP 5: Monitor the area (and repeat Steps 2 and 3 if necessary)

Every two or three weeks, examine your property and make sure ivy vines haven’t popped up again. If you spot any new vines, pull them out with a gloved hand and gardening shears (Step 2), then a repeat spray with your herbicide or white vinegar to spot-treat the stems (Step 3).

 

Note that if you purposely grow English ivy as part of your landscaping, you must follow some strict guidelines in order to prevent it from overrunning the place. Keep the vines contained by surrounding them with mulch and trimming the edges whenever they begin to creep. Ivy can be a charming addition to any yard, but containment and maintenance are critical if you want to keep your other vegetation thriving alongside it.

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The best remedies for spider mites

Unfortunately, they have not yet come up with such a way with which you can destroy all spider mites that have settled on indoor plants with a “one shot”. As a rule, more than one treatment, or even two, is needed before the last tick is defeated. And in this struggle, the choice of a remedy for spider mites will play an important role.

Contents

Folk remedies for spider mites

Peace of mind and only peace of mind! If the number of arachnid monsters on your plant is small, then it is quite possible to get by with folk remedies for destruction.

1. Medical alcohol

Quite an effective remedy for spider mites is medical alcohol (96%). Moisten a cotton swab with it and wipe the leaves of the plant - the tick will be destroyed (recall that you can’t take eggs in this way!). Alcohol has the ability to evaporate quickly, so the leaves of the plant should theoretically not be damaged. However, it is still better not to experiment in this way with thin fuchsia or petunia leaves. But ficus, hibiscus, date palm, dieffenbachia and other "thick-skinned" do not even feel the touch of alcohol.

2. Soap (drying soap is better, but any other will do)

If you have a spider mite, the plant can be treated with ordinary soap. To do this, we bring our plant into the bathroom and wipe all the leaves and branches with a soapy sponge. The more foam, the better. We also lather the pot and pan well. We also spray the earth with soapy water, but just a little bit so as not to get on the roots and not damage the plant. Unfortunately, some flower growers act drastically and spill the entire earthen lump, and then they are surprised that the plant withered after a week. Do not repeat the mistakes of others, there should be a measure in everything!

So, after you lather the plant, do not rush to wash off the lather. Wait 3-4 hours - that will be enough. Soap forms a film on the leaves through which gas exchange does not occur, that is, the plant “does not breathe”. Therefore, leaving it in such soapy conditions overnight is risky. After the soap is washed off, cover the plant with a bag for a day, without waiting for the water drops to dry. This will be a "double whammy" for those mites that are still alive after the soap. The increased humidity under the bag will become unbearable for them and they will die.

Soap - an effective remedy for spider mites

It is often recommended to spray plants with soapy water instead of wiping with a sponge. In some cases, this is the only right solution, for example, when many plants with small leaves are infected. Wipe each leaf - you are tormented, and you can spray it in a matter of minutes.

By the way, as an alternative to soap, you can use any dishwashing detergent, for example, the same "Fairy".

3. Garlic infusion

Take two heads of garlic and chop them finely. We put the resulting raw materials in a jar and fill it with 1 liter of water, close the lid. We put the jar in a dark cabinet and insist 5 days. After this period, we spray the plant with the resulting infusion, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

The tick drinks the “blood” of plants and therefore, like any vampire, is very afraid of garlic

4. Infusion of onion peel

Pour 100 g of onion peel into 5 liters of water and infuse for 4-5 days. After the infusion, filter and spray the affected plants.

Chemical control of spider mites - preparations of mass destruction

Putin tick is an arachnid "animal", therefore, it is pointless to use insecticides (means against insect pests) to destroy it. Other drugs are effective against ticks - acaricides and insectoacaricides.

1. Actellik - a toxic agent of "armor-piercing" action

This remedy for spider mites belongs to a series of insectoacaricides, that is, it destroys both arachnids and insects. It kills mites on the spot, so it is most often recommended for massive plant damage, when other drugs may not be as effective.

When spraying plants with Aktellik, it should be remembered that this agent is very toxic. Treat either outdoors or with good ventilation.

Actellik is a remedy for spider mites of the 2nd hazard class, therefore it is toxic to humans and domestic animals. Its advantage is much less toxicity, so spraying can be carried out indoors, for example, in the bathroom. Naturally, you should not lose vigilance - carry out the treatment at an accelerated pace, and at the end - wash your face, hands, rinse your mouth, wash your clothes. In general, comply with all safety requirements that must be observed when working with hazardous substances.

For the complete destruction of mites, plants should be sprayed with phytoverm 3-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days

3. Neoron - acaricide with ovicidal action

Rare preparations for spider mites damage not only adults, but also their eggs. One of these universal remedies is Neoron. It cannot be said that the eggs are completely destroyed and one treatment procedure can be dispensed with, but the fact that a significant part of them are damaged is a fact. As a rule, 2 treatments with Neoron are enough to destroy the entire population of ticks.

4. Other drugs - let's try to embrace the immensity

In addition to the above drugs, you can use: Sunmite (as well as Neoron destroys tick eggs), Aktofit, Akarin, Apollo, Vermitek, Fufanon (analogue of karbofos), etc.

In many sources, there is an opinion that the traditional insecticide Aktar can be used as an acaricide. So does Aktara work against spider mites? In fact, many experienced flower growers note the destruction of the tick precisely after the Aktara Strait of earth in a pot with plants. So, even if this phenomenon is not supported by the inscription on the label, this does not mean that it does not exist. Try it!

Biological measures against spider mites

There is another way to get rid of spider mites. The method is quite specific, but completely harmless to humans and pets. In addition, it does not involve any labor-intensive spraying, keeping plants under the package and other body movements.

The essence of biological control against spider mites is to use their natural enemies - phytoseiulus and amblyseius. These are also ticks, but only predatory ones. You can buy them in garden centers, flower shops or on the Internet.

Ambliseius and phytoseius are sold in paper sachets. An open package is hung on the affected plant, predatory mites crawl out and eat pests

As soon as you release Phytoseiulus or Amblyseius into a pot with a plant, they immediately begin to look for food. For day 1, a predator eats 5 spider mites or 10 eggs - not bad! Thus, the more predators you acquire, the faster you will be able to destroy the malicious pests. The only thing is that as soon as predators are left without food, they will die, so it will not work to store them until the next invasion of spider mites.

Top 10 best herbicides: description, application, action

In the current economic conditions, chemical plant protection products are in great demand. Now, in order to get a high yield, in some cases, even a minimal one, one cannot do without pesticides. Crops are threatened by pests, diseases and significant damage is caused by weeds. Malicious pests hinder the proper vegetative development of the crop, quickly spread over the sown areas and, as a result, significantly reduce yields. Thus, in order to effectively clear crops of weeds, agronomists use proven preparations - herbicides. Thanks to these pesticides, even malicious pest plants can be destroyed without harming the crop.

The main difference between herbicides and other plant protection products is a high level of phytotoxicity, which is manifested by plant resistance to drugs. They contain organic and inorganic compounds that quickly enter the weed tissues through the leaf apparatus or root. Thus, the active substances block the synthesis of amino acids and stop the vegetation process. How this happens, consider the example of ten popular herbicides.

Glyph BT

Modern drug Glyph BT is involved in the process of suppression of protein synthesis at the cellular level, which slows down the functioning of chlorophyll, and as a result causes the death of the plant.

How it works

The pesticide contains an adhesive that is absorbed by the ground and moves to the root. The rate of action of the herbicide depends on climatic conditions, the condition and type of the pest plant, as well as on the application rate of the working solution. As a result of the use of the drug, the weed turns yellow, the leaves wilt, and its death occurs within 10-20 days.

How to apply

To obtain the best results, the herbicide is recommended to be applied during the intensive phase of the development of the pest under suitable climatic conditions.
Favorable time for spraying is determined according to the stage of development of the weed:

The fight against thistle should be started at a plant height of 10-20 cm (the rate of use of the solution is 5-6 liters per 1 hectare). Herbicide against couch grass (10-12 cm), as well as humai (15-20 cm) must be used at a rate of 4-5 l / ha. To clear crops from birches (10-12 cm), it is necessary to apply 6-8 liters per hectare of the finished mixture. Gorchak is sprayed when stalking is normal - 6 l / ha.

Tornado

Tornado is effective against a large number of weeds, both dicotyledonous and grassy.

How it works

When sprayed, the active substance of the herbicide spreads through the tissues of the pest plant and moves to the root system, hits the growth points, which provokes the loss of the weed's vegetative capacity. Under the action of the drug, the synthesis of aromatic amino acids is blocked.

How to use

Tornado is diluted in 3 liters of water, the resulting mixture can be treated with 100 square meters. m. It is desirable to use the finished solution in the morning or evening hours, when there is no sun. Fruit trees, vineyards, citrus fruits and potatoes are recommended to be sprayed at a rate of 25-50 ml of the drug per 3 liters of water. To process lawn grass and areas for sowing various crops, it is necessary to dissolve 50-75 ml of herbicide in 3 liters of liquid.

Zenkor

Systemic drug Zenkor is designed to protect soybean crops, as well as vegetables and fruit trees. This is a reliable remedy for weeds (grass and dicotyledonous).

How it works

The active substance is concentrated at the growing point after being absorbed by the root and ground systems, and as a result, it slows down the development of the weed. The herbicide acts on the cells of the pest plant. The active substance, after penetrating into the tissues of the plant, delays cell division, in addition, protein and lipid metabolism is disturbed, which leads to the death of the weed.

How to apply

Knowing the mechanical soil composition, it is necessary to adjust the application rate of Zencor herbicide. On average, it is 0.5-1.4 kg/ha. The maximum dose of the herbicide is used on heavy soils, the minimum - on light soils, sandy (humus content - less than 1%) is not recommended to be treated with Zenkor herbicide. For best results, application should be carried out when the air temperature is 10°C–24°C and the wind speed is up to 5 m/s. The application rate of the working solution is 200-300 liters per hectare.

Napalm

Napalm is a systemic weed killer with a wide range of uses. It is used in any phase of development of the pest plant.

How it works

An effective weed killer is Napalm herbicide, the active substance of which, getting on the leaves, passes through the vascular system throughout the weed, and reaches the root system. On the 3rd-4th day, chlorosis is noticeable (yellow, then brown color of the leaves), subsequently the pest plant dies after 5-10 days.

How to use

The treatment of young weeds occurs during the period of active growth in the absence of wind. The drug is diluted in 3-4 liters of water, and the resulting solution can be treated with 100 square meters. m. A good result from the pesticide is achieved when the average daily air temperature is within 12-30 ° C, in the absence of precipitation (4-5 hours) after application.
There is a need to apply the herbicide 5-6 days before preplant cultivation and before planting.

Prima

Universal Prima herbicide is a reliable weed killer that protects corn and other crops in the post-emergence period. Effectively cleans crops from dicotyledonous weeds for one year and also fights perennial pests.

How it works

The drug works on the basis of a combination of two main components with different mechanisms of action. The first - Florasulam (a class of triazolpyrimidines) blocks amino acid synthesis. Aminopyralide destroys growth hormone and affects the rate of fluid penetration into plant cells. Perfectly manifests itself in any soil, regardless of climatic conditions. Acts on 160 species of pest plants.

How to use

To achieve the maximum effect, it is necessary to use the drug at temperatures from +5°C to +25°C, and it is also important to pay attention to the phase of development of the pest plant and the type of crop. The herbicide solution is applied to the entire ground part using a slotted sprayer in medium mode, at an application rate of 150-400 l/ha.

Roundup Max

One of the innovative and safe plant protection products against weeds. The pesticide effectively destroys monocots, rhizomes and dicots. Protects soybean, rapeseed, potato, sugar beet, sorghum and flax crops.

How it works

Penetration of the pesticide into the weed cells is carried out using the TranSorb technology: the active substance (Glyphosate) enters the tissues of the pest plant through the waxy layer on the leaves. During the first hour after application, the root system absorbs 75% of the components of the solution. The drug is completely absorbed in four, maximum six hours. 7 days after the application of the herbicide, the weed turns yellow and wilts. And after 3-4 weeks, the pest plant dies.

How to use

The herbicide is recommended for use when the air temperature is between 5°C and 25°C in calm weather. Be sure to apply herbicide pre-sowing and post-harvest to prepare for the next season. The recommended application rate for fruit trees, vineyards and citrus fruits is 3 liters of the drug per 200 liters of water. The soil for potatoes should be sprayed two (maximum five) days before germination, the solution should be 1.5 liters of herbicide per 100 liters of water, and the application rate should be 200 liters / ha. On the soil with the subsequent sowing of oilseeds and melons, as well as vegetables, Roundup Max should be applied after harvesting. How to apply to clear crops from weeds of one year? It is necessary to dilute 3 liters of the drug in 200 liters of water, from perennials - 3 liters of pesticide per 300 liters of water.

Hurricane Forte

This is one of the most effective weed killers. It is used in summer cottages, industrial facilities, forestry. Orchard, vineyard, steam are also treated with Hurricane Forte.

How it works

The active ingredient, after penetration through the leaf apparatus, immediately enters all weed tissues, reaching the root. Within three days (maximum 5), under the influence of Glyphosate, the pest plant turns yellow, dries up and dies within 2-3 weeks and does not grow back.

How to use

It is advisable to apply the drug in warm weather, in the pre-emergence and post-harvest periods, in the active growth phase of the pest plant, using the sprayer in medium drops mode. What is the application rate of Hurricane Forte herbicide? For 1 hectare for vegetables, the norm is 1.5 liters (maximum 2 liters), for shrubs - 2-4 liters, for cereals, sunflower and hops - 2-4 liters. Effective in non-agricultural areas (norm - 2-4 l / ha). Herbicide application for ground spraying is 150-200 l/ha, aviation - 50-70 l/ha.

Helios

The modern herbicide Helios has a systemic effect on many annual and perennial weeds. In addition to the use on soils intended for sowing, it is also used in non-agricultural areas. It is a universal herbicide for wheatgrass.

How it works

The active substance of the pesticide inhibits amino acid and chlorophyll synthesis in weed cells. The component, getting on the ground part of the plant, penetrates into the cells and enters the root part, this causes the death of the pest plant. Chlorosis in annual weeds occurs within 2-5 days, and after 5-12 days they die. Perennial pest plants finally stop the vegetation within 14-21 days.

How to use

Single application is carried out 12-14 days before soil cultivation. The pesticide should be sprayed on actively developing weeds in dry weather and 6 hours before the onset of rain. The recommended temperature range is above 13 °C, but not above 25 °C. Helios herbicide should be applied away from crops, trees, and shrubs. The application rate of the working solution is from 100 to 300 l/ha.

Neutrin BT

Post-emergence pesticide designed to control grass (annual and perennial) weeds. Protects vegetables, oilseeds and legumes. It is a reliable herbicide against wheatgrass.

How it works

The active substance moves along the vegetative parts of the plant to the growth point, where fatty acid synthesis is disturbed, thereby causing the death of weeds.

How to apply

It is recommended to apply Neutrin BT herbicide on cereal pests of one year (2-4 leaves) at a rate of 0.6 to 0.8 l/ha. To rid the sowing of cereal perennial weeds, 10-15 cm high, it is worth using a rate of 1.1 l/ha +/-100 ml/ha.

Titus

The mechanism of action of the post-emergence herbicide Titus will protect areas with potatoes, corn and tomatoes from malicious weeds. It fights a large number of cereals, and also destroys dicotyledonous pests of one year.

How it works

The pesticide is applied to the leaf apparatus of the weed. The active substance moves to the point of growth, where the blocking of the enzyme acetolactate synthase occurs. The component of the drug is indispensable in the synthesis of amino acids. Under the influence of the herbicide, weeds stop receiving nutrients and moisture for several hours. Pest plants stop growing and do not compete with the crop.

How to use

To determine the best processing time, pay attention to the number of leaves of the plant or its height. The area with potatoes, whose height is 5-20 cm, is sprayed against cereal weeds at a rate of 50 grams per hectare. Cereals of one year are treated when the plant has from one to four leaves, and perennial cereals - when the height is 10-15 cm. If there are no perennial and overgrown annual pests, it is allowed to use herbicide at a rate of 40 grams per hectare. At the same time, the amount of application of the working solution is 150 l/ha or 2 times more. Titus should be applied with adhesives to improve the wetting of pests and provide a better protective effect.

Herbicides and their application

Presented weed preparations are in great demand among domestic farmers. Their result of action is an excellent proof of effectiveness in the field. Herbicides against weeds are reliable means of protecting crops for a long period. The complete destruction of weeds requires compliance with detailed instructions for use. Therefore, herbicides, the types of which are presented above, must be used in accordance with the recommendations from the manufacturer. Since for their complete death in some situations it is necessary to use the drug twice. And in order to finally get rid of perennial weeds in other most critical cases, continuous herbicides are used (the description must be carefully studied, since a negative effect on cultivated plants is possible).

As can be seen from the TOP 10 selection, each preparation consists of a unique combination of active ingredients that have an effective effect only on certain crops and weeds.

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