Are hydrangeas low maintenance

The Best Panicle Hydrangeas: Low-Maintenance, Long-Lasting Hydrangeas

There is no denying the wow factor of the panicle hydrangea, especially when it’s in bloom. The flower trusses are in-your-face big, averaging 6 to 8 inches long, but they can be much bigger. Even better is that the robust blooms sit atop stout branches during the dog days of summer, when other shrubs have finished their show. Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 3–8) is a great old-fashioned shrub. I clearly remember having to duck under a huge canopy of blooms while delivering newspapers as a boy. I’ve seen a countless number of different panicle hydrangeas since my paper-route years—a testament to their reliability and popularity.

Panicle hydrangea is undergoing a renaissance of sorts, with a plethora of fresh cultivars making this vintage shrub relevant again. The influx of new cultivars in the 1990s, as well as the obvious similarity among some cultivars, fueled my interest in beginning a plant trial in 1999. Let’s be honest: Comparing the flowers can be like staring at a Magic Eye stereogram and waiting for the hidden image to appear. How distinct are the plants, really? Are the new cultivars improvements over the old ones or just more of the same? I knew that, by planting the cultivars side by side, their similarities and differences would become clear—and, boy, did they ever.

How we treated the hydrangeas

Over the past 12 years, we’ve evaluated 25 cultivars of panicle hydrangea at the Chicago Botanic Garden (CBG). The initial trial included the traditional offerings of the day, such as ‘Floribunda’, ‘Tardiva’, and ‘Unique’, as well as some cultivars from Europe that eventually became available in the United States. In the last few years, we’ve kept the trial current by adding new introductions. We grew the plants in their preferred setting—moist, well-drained soil in full sun—although most would also tolerate partial shade. We rated them on ornamental qualities, cultural adaptability, winter hardiness, and disease and pest resistance. The goal is to determine, through scientific evaluation, which plants are superior. Shrubs, like panicle hydrangea, are evaluated for a minimum of six years in CBG’s Zone 5b gardens.

The top-performing panicles

‘Big Ben’. Photo: Danielle Sherry

Because of its name, I expected ‘Big Ben’ to have huge flowers, but they were fairly average compared with those of other cultivars. I was, however, over the moon when I saw the unexpected transformation of the blooms from creamy white to deep fuchsia. The color of the open, lacy panicles continued to get better with age, a rarity in the plant world.

‘Angel’s Blush’. Photo: Doreen Wynja

Where ‘Big Ben’ is a bit of a misnomer, Angel’s Blush™ (‘Ruby’) is a name that is spot-on. The deep red stems foreshadow what’s in store for the color of the blossoms: The white florets blush pink come midsummer and then gradually darken to red by midfall.

‘Dharuma’. Photo: Bill Johnson

‘Dharuma’ was the earliest hydrangea to bloom at the start of summer and is the smallest of the hydrangeas we grew, making it perfect for undersize gardens or containers. Held on beautiful red stems, the diminutive, lacy white flowers eventually age to deep pink. Because of its slow-growing, compact habit, this cultivar needs only a light pruning in spring to remove spent flowers.

Quick Fire™. Photo: Danielle Sherry

Quick Fire™ (‘Bulk’) is aptly named for how rapidly the white flowers change to pink in midsummer, peaking at a dusky rose by late summer. Like ‘Dharuma’, which is one of its parents, Quick Fire™ boasts deep red stems and an early bloom time. While it has a compact habit, Quick Fire™ has vertical stems that occasionally shoot up arrow-straight in summer. The natural inclination is to prune back these errant stems, but resist the urge because they bear late-season flowers. Panicle hydrangeas typically have handsome, dark green leaves with no significant fall color, but the leaves of Quick Fire™ turn orange when cooler temperatures set in.

‘Limelight’. Photo: www.millettephotomedia.com

It was evident from the start that there was something special about Limelight™ (‘Zwijnenburg’). The fresh chartreuse color and Rubenesque plumpness of its flower clusters set it apart. I am still in awe of its bodacious floral show and beyond impressed that its stems are strong enough to hold up the rotund blossoms. In the trial garden, the serendipitous floral juxtaposition of overstuffed Limelight™ with noble ‘Big Ben’ was brilliant. It’s hard for me now to think of having one without the other nearby.

‘Little Lamb’. Photo: Bill Johnson

‘Little Lamb’ looks like the kid brother of Limelight™ but with creamy white flowers. Its plump panicles are jam-packed with the smallest florets of all, which are less than an inch wide. I’ll fight the urge to compare the fluffy flowers to frolicking lambs, but the analogy is an honest one. Like Limelight™, its showy florets gradually turn pink by early fall.

‘Unique’. Photo: Bill Johnson

‘Unique’ is a giant—the tallest cultivar with the largest flower trusses. I think of this cultivar as a garden classic (which is not just a nice way of saying that it’s old). It has been around since the 1970s, but that is because it has a solid reputation for vigor and reliability. ‘Unique’ is the progenitor of many modern cultivars, such as ‘Brussels Lace’, ‘Burgundy Lace’, ‘Greenspire’, Pink Diamond™, and ‘White Moth’; interestingly, in our trial, it outperformed all of these cultivars.

What you need to know about panicle hydrangeas

1. They are hardy

Panicle hydrangea are considered the most cold hardy of the species. They are reliable shrubs or small trees that require minimal fuss for success. Their stout, reddish brown branches are upright to arching, sometimes becoming bowed under the weight of the large flowers. A height and width up to 15 feet is possible, but something closer to 6 or 8 feet tall and wide is more common. Due to their size, panicle hydrangeas are usually ruled out for small gardens; however, with judicious pruning or by choosing a small cultivar, such as ‘Dharuma’ or Quick Fire™, anyone can enjoy them.

2.

Pruning doesn’t affect bloom

Unlike bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla cvs., Zones 6–9), panicle hydrangeas don’t mind being pruned. I recommend cutting the plants back by about one-half of their height before the leaves emerge, typically in early spring—although this isn’t necessary if you have room for a larger plant. We initially pruned due to space restrictions in the trial beds, but the improved habits and performance after pruning encouraged us to do it regularly. The chart below reflects the size of the hydrangeas with annual pruning. Panicle hydrangeas (unlike many bigleaf types) bloom on new wood, so pruning will not reduce flower production and may actually increase the size of the flowers. Contrary to some reports, annual pruning did not encourage long, weak stems that couldn’t support the heavy flowers. With the exception of ‘Dolly’, all the cultivars were strong enough to hold up their blooms.

3. Flower type and size vary

The blooms of panicle hydrangeas are a mix of frothy, fertile florets and showy, sterile florets. The showy florets, varying in size and quantity by cultivar, provide the long-lasting bloom show, which is enhanced by a metamorphosis from white to varying shades of pink. The trend in breeding, not surprisingly, has been to intensify the pink color of the aging blossoms. I use the terms “lacy” and “mop” to distinguish between the two flower types of panicle hydrangea. “Lacy” refers to an open panicle with showy florets interspersed among the fertile florets, whereas “mop” indicates an overabundance of showy florets with fertile florets hidden beneath.

4. Watch the pH—but don’t worry about deer

Our soils at the Chicago Botanic Garden tend to be alkaline, which I found may cause foliar chlorosis in panicle hydrangeas, especially in hot, dry weather. In warmer climates, consistent water will ensure healthier foliage and stronger flower production. Panicle hydrangeas are tolerant of urban conditions and are largely unbothered by pests and diseases. While the mildew resistance of some cultivars is often touted, we never observed powdery mildew on any of our plants. And although deer love bigleaf hydrangeas, they tend to be less interested in panicle types.

5. They have some winter interest

I’m not nutty about expounding on a plant’s winter character, but I don’t agree with naysayers who think panicle hydrangea has no winter interest. The faded tan flowers provide a bit of color and structural interest, especially when rimed with frost or covered in snow. Being a lazy gardener at heart, I prefer to leave them on until spring, when I’m cutting the branches back anyway. It’s fun when the crispy panicles snap off and roll through the garden like miniature tumbleweeds.

Panicle hydrangea trial results

‘Silver Dollar (left) and ‘Burgundy Lace’ (right). Photos: Danielle Sherry

Rating	Name	Flower period	Flower color
3/5	Angel’s Blush™ (‘Ruby’)	Midsummer to midfall	White, dark pink to red
4/5	‘Big Ben’	Early summer to midfall	White, deep pink to magenta
2/5	‘Boskoop’	Midsummer to midfall	White, pink
1/5	‘Brussels Lace’	Late spring to late summer	White, light green
2/5	‘Burgundy Lace’	Midsummer to late fall	White, deep pink

3/5	‘Dharuma’	Midsummer to early fall	White, deep pink
2/5	‘Dolly’	Early summer to midfall	White, tan
2/5	‘Floribunda’	Midsummer to midfall	White, pink
2/5	‘Greenspire’	Midsummer to midfall	Greenish white
3/5	‘Kyushu’	Midsummer to late fall	White, light green
4/5	Limelight™ (‘Zwijenburg’)	Midsummer to late fall	Greenish white, pink

3/5	‘Little Lamb’	Early summer to midfall	White, pink
2/5	‘Mega Pearl’	Midsummer to late fall	White, pink
3/5	‘Phantom’	Midsummer to late fall	White, deep pink
2/5	‘Pink Diamond’ (‘Interhydia’)	Early summer to midfall	White, deep pink
2/5	‘Pink Lady’	Late summer to early fall	White
3/5	Quick Fire™ (‘Bulk’)	Early summer to midfall	White, dusky rose

3/5	‘Silver Dollar’	Midsummer to late fall	White, green and pink
2/5	‘Tardiva’	Early summer to midfall	White, pink
1/5	The Swan™ (‘Barbara’)	Midsummer to late fall	White
3/5	‘Unique’	Late summer to midfall	White, pink
2/5	‘White Lace’	Early summer to late fall	White
3/5	‘White Lady’	Midsummer to late fall	White, greenish

Richard Hawke is plant evaluation manager at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois.

How to Plant, Grow & Care for Hydrangeas

Hydrangea Care: How to Plant, Grow & Care for Hydrangeas

Tips & Techniques

Betterdays in Full Swing

Gardening

If you’re looking for a garden flower with show appeal, hydrangea flowers are truly stunning. Large globes of flowers cover this shrub in summer and spring. Although their appearance may seem high maintenance, with the right conditions and care, hydrangeas are actually fairly easy to grow. So grab your garden gloves, because our growing hydrangeas guide will have you ready to plant in no time.

What Are Hydrangeas?
Planting Hydrangeas
Hydrangea Care Tips
Types of Hydrangeas
Common Questions About Growing Hydrangeas

What Are Hydrangeas?

Blooming in spring and summer, the hydrangea is considered a shrub. But despite their ability to be rather large showstoppers in your yard, how to grow hydrangeas isn’t a question even the novice gardener will need to ask – these beauties all but grow themselves. Reaching up to 15 feet in height, the hydrangea grows quickly and often fills in a space in just one summer. You’ll find hydrangeas growing in hardiness Zones 3 to 7 as perennials. With flowers starting in spring and often last throughout summer into early fall, hydrangea flowers can be the foundation plant of your landscape.

Planting Hydrangeas

As with most things in your garden, learning the basics of how to plant hydrangeas can save you time and money. By choosing the proper location, getting the soil just right and planting correctly, you’ll increase your chances of enjoying large, colorful hydrangea blooms for years to come.

Best time to plant hydrangeas
Fall is the best season to plant hydrangeas, followed by early spring. The idea is to give the shrub plenty of time to establish a healthy root system before blooming. The best time of day to plant is early morning or late afternoon. The cooler parts of the day offer protection against heat stress. Keep new plants well-watered until established.
Where to plant hydrangeas
Knowing where to plant hydrangea shrubs is an important first step. Many people plant hydrangeas in beds next to their homes or fences. This is because hydrangeas love the warm morning sun, but they dislike the heat of the afternoon. The best place to plant hydrangeas is in a sheltered location with sunny mornings and shady afternoons. You often find this on the north or south side of your home. Avoid planting directly underneath trees, which can lead to competition for water and nutrients. High winds can rip and damage leaves and destroy the flowers.
Best soil for hydrangeas
Hydrangeas grow well in soil containing an abundance of organic material. Good drainage is vital. While hydrangeas like moist soil, they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. Soggy, poor draining soils can cause root rot. In just a few weeks, your hydrangeas can quickly die. If you have heavy soil, consider mixing in plenty of compost prior to planting to improve soil quality.
How to plant hydrangeas
To plant hydrangeas, simply dig the planting holes 2 feet wider than the root ball. Keep the depth of the hole consistent with the size of the root ball so your plant sits level with or just higher than the surrounding soil. By creating a slight mound, you help increase water drainage away from the base of the plant.
How to propagate hydrangeas
One hydrangea can turn into many through simple propagation techniques. Bigleaf and panicle hydrangeas are best propagated through layering in early to mid-summer. All you have to do is:
- Dig a small trench near your hydrangea plant.
- Bend a branch down to the trench so it touches the soil in the middle of the branch (six to 12 inches of branch should extend past the trench).
- Make scratches in the bark where the branch touches the trench soil.
- Fill in the trench and place a paver, brick or stone on top.
- With time, the branch will form its own root system and may be transplanted to a new location.

Smooth and oakleaf hydrangeas put out new shoots through underground stems. Just dig up the young plant and separate it away from the main plant. It can then be transplanted to a new location.

Hydrangea Care Tips

Although the hydrangea’s leaves and flowers appear delicate, they actually don’t require a lot of tender care. These tips provide all you need to know about how to care for hydrangeas.

Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. Deeply water 3 times a week to encourage root growth. Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture. Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves. Watering in the morning will help prevent hydrangeas from wilting during hot days.
Add mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool. An organic mulch breaks down over time, adding nutrients and improving soil texture.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas need several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Protect against pests and disease by choosing cultivars with resistant traits. Leaf spots, bight, wilt and powdery mildew can all appear on hydrangeas. Pests are not common on hydrangeas, but can appear when plants become stressed. Possible pests include aphids, leaf tiers and red spider mites. Properly caring for hydrangeas is your best defense.

Types of Hydrangeas

There are four different types of hydrangeas grown in the United States:

Oakleaf hydrangeas thrive in warmer zones. If you live in Zone 5 or warmer, oakleaf hydrangeas are a great choice, as they’re able to withstand the heat of summer.
Bigleaf hydrangeas are the most common of all. They’re often found growing in Zones 5 through 9.
Panicle hydrangeas are hardy to Zone 3. They’re easy growers, reaching up to 15 feet tall.
Smooth hydrangeas are also known as snowballs because of their large white clusters of blooms. They’re an excellent choice in cold climates.

Consider planting these popular hydrangeas in your garden landscape:

French Hydrangea – This traditional bigleaf hydrangea is also known as the florist’s hydrangea for its large, vibrant blooms.
Mophead hydrangea – This variety of bigleaf hydrangea features large, round blooms.
Lacecap hydrangea – Large flowers surround smaller buds with the appearance of being only half bloomed for a lacy, delicate look.
Endless summer hydrangea – Discovered in the 1980’s, this unique bigleaf hydrangea variety has the ability to withstand the cold winters of zone 4.
Peegee hydrangea – While often trained to look like a tree, the Peegee (P.G.) is technically the Grandiflora cultivar from the panicle hydrangea family.
Blue hydrangea – Blue hydrangeas from the bigleaf family are only blue because of the soil they are grown in. You can purchase a blue hydrangea and find it blooms a different color next year.
Pink hydrangea – Pink hydrangeas range from hot pinks to barely blushing and can be found in several different types.

Common Questions About Growing Hydrangeas

When do hydrangeas bloom?

The hydrangea blooming season depends upon the type and cultivar as well as your planting zone. Most new growth hydrangeas put on buds in early summer to bloom in the following spring, summer and early fall seasons. In hot climates, hydrangeas may stop blooming in the heat of summer, but will rebloom in the fall.

How do you cut back hydrangeas?

When hydrangea plants are given plenty of growing space in the garden, they don’t need pruning. All that is required is the occasional removal of dead wood.

Do you need to deadhead hydrangeas?

Deadheading hydrangeas will keep your plants blooming into fall. You don’t have to wait until the flower wilts – hydrangeas make excellent cut flowers. Leave those early fall blooms in place to fade on their own. You don’t want to encourage new growth close to your freeze date.

How do you control hydrangea color?

Hydrangeas are unique in that you can control their color. But keep in mind, not all hydrangea types are capable of color adjustments. Bigleaf hydrangeas, H. macrophylla, react to changes in soil pH. A low soil pH allows hydrangeas to absorb aluminum, which turns the flowers a beautiful blue color. To increase blue hydrangea flowers, lower your soil pH by adding sulfur or peat moss to the soil. You can also add additional aluminum sulfate to your soil throughout the growing season. Pink and red flowers shine when you add ground limestone to increase the pH.

A soil pH test can help you accurately adjust your hydrangea color. Avoid pH levels above 7.5 to prevent damage to the plant. No matter what adjustments you’ve made, all hydrangeas will naturally fade in the fall. Don’t worry – the plant will showcase fresh, colorful blooms again in the spring.

Can hydrangeas grow in shade?

Hydrangeas like dappled or occasional shade, but they will not bloom in heavy shade. It isn’t so much a question of do they prefer sun or shade, but rather more of a question of how much sun do hydrangeas need? The further north your garden is located, the more sunlight your hydrangeas need. An average rule of thumb is six hours of sunlight per day. However, hydrangeas growing in the south can perform on only three hours of sunlight.

Can hydrangeas grow in full sun?

Hydrangeas like morning sun, but do not do well if they’re in direct, hot afternoon sun. Partial shade in the later parts of the day is ideal for these beauties.

Can you grow hydrangeas in pots?

Even if you lack the space in your garden to grow hydrangeas, knowing how to grow hydrangea in a pot means you can still enjoy these beautiful blooms. The process is relatively simple, as long as you follow the basics of hydrangea care. Choose a large enough pot for the mature size of your specific hydrangea – at least 18 inches in diameter. Look for non-porous containers to help hold the consistent moisture level require by hydrangeas. Drainage holes will allow excess water to drain properly. Consider planting dwarf hydrangeas, such as Little Lime, Mini Penny and Buttons ‘n Bows.

How do you keep hydrangeas from wilting?

Regular watering in the mornings can help prevent wilting. Some varieties of hydrangeas simply can’t handle the heat. It won’t matter how much water you give them – they’ll wilt a bit in the heat of afternoon. A thick layer of mulch can help retain moisture and keep soil cool. If your hydrangeas perk back up once the day begins to cool, you don’t need to worry. It’s better to have a little mid-day wilting than to overwater and drown your hydrangeas.

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Hydrangea paniculata - description of the plant, planting and care

White, cream, greenish, pink flower clusters highlight their territory with a bright accent. Hydrangea paniculata truly serves as a spectacular decoration of any, even the smallest, site.

We will tell you about the rules for planting and caring for Hydrangea paniculata below.

Contents:

1 Description
2 Variety
3 Planting and care
4 Hydrangea formation
5 Reproduction

Description

Commerson Philibert, a French resident, a naturalist and physician, while making a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, noticed a richly flowering shrub and decided to name it after the brave traveler Hortensia Lepot. The Japanese themselves use the term "ajisai" to refer to a tree.

Hydrangea grows in many parts of the world

Hydrangea paniculata belongs to flowering plants of the Hydrangea family. It is a small tree that can reach 10 meters or a multi-stemmed shrub.

Wild specimens are most often found on the edges of oak forests. The leaves are oval. The root system is located at a shallow depth, expanding widely to the sides. Numerous beaded seeds ripen in fruit-boxes, shaped like a jug.

Inflorescences are very remarkable - cone-shaped panicles, white when blooming, subsequently changing color to cream, pale lilac, pink. Depending on the variety, flowering begins in June and ends in October. With proper care, the hydrangea is so covered with flowers that the foliage is almost invisible. By the way, the buds that densely cover the brushes are false or sterile. The true flowers that form the seeds are hidden inside the inflorescences and are not attractive at all.

Lush brushes are used to create winter or dry bouquets. To do this, the panicles that have reached the desired color are cut off, the leaves are removed and individually hung in a dry, dark room. After two weeks, dried flowers can be used. If you do not put the vase in bright sunlight, they retain their colors for several months.

All parts of the plant are toxic, but cases of poisoning are extremely rare.

The shrub is quite unpretentious, it is not affected by pests and diseases. It easily tolerates smoke and an increased amount of gas. Due to its high frost resistance, it perfectly takes root throughout Russia, up to the northern regions. Lifespan - more than half a century! Very hygrophilous. Not without reason from the Latin language hydrangea is translated as "a vessel with water."

Unpretentious shrub

Habitat - China, Japan, Korea, Sakhalin. It has been cultivated in culture since the beginning of the 19th century. In the biological classification, there are about 80 plant species, but in Russian conditions, paniculate hydrangea is the most common.

Varietal diversity

Widely cultivated in Soviet times, paniculate hydrangea went into the shade for decades, and only by the middle of the 2000s, gardeners again turned their attention to it. Now the choice of varieties is so numerous that it is simply dizzying.

Grandiflora. This representative of the family is characterized by rapid, up to 25 centimeters, annual growth. Late flowering. Thirty centimeter brushes initially have a creamy hue, then become a rich white color, by autumn they change back to greenish-red.

Kyushu. Tall shrub with a fan-shaped crown. Very aesthetic. Shiny, glossy foliage. Flowering begins in July. White panicles have a pleasant light aroma.

There are many types of hydrangea

Pink Diamond. A two-meter beauty with dark rough leaves. Narrow pyramidal brushes acquire a dark pink, almost red color at the end of the season. Most popular in European countries.

Limelight. The originality of this variety of hydrangea lies in the silky foliage and dense flower heads of the original light green color. The rounded crown is well suited for creating single or group curtains.

Floribunda. American favourite. It stands out among the "relatives" with abundant flowering. Buds are very large, white.

Bombshell. Novelty of the Russian market. Dwarf variety, only 80 cm. Dense crown and straight stems. Super frost resistant.

Pinky Winky. Fantastic cherry-colored panicles with white tips. One of the most famous and valued varieties of panicled hydrangea in Russia.

Vanille Fraise. Indispensable in creating mixborders - numerous large inflorescences of a shade of strawberry with cream delight from mid-summer until frost.

All varieties of garden beauty are adapted and will perfectly take root in any corner of Russia.

Planting and care

Hydrangea does not like the bright sun, it makes the leaves turn yellow, growth slows down, and the flowers become smaller. In deep shade, it seems to be good, but then the shrub will bloom very late. The optimal "place of residence" will be penumbra.

The plant does not require fertile land

The plant is rather undemanding to soil fertility. But the main factor for the proper development of hydrangea is the acidity of the soil. The lower the pH of the earth, the brighter and richer the flower color! To increase this indicator, when planting a tree, acidifiers such as peat, sawdust, pine or spruce needles should be added. Lovers of acidic virgin soil include crowberry, erica, heather. They will make a wonderful composition next to hydrangea.

Planting should be carried out in spring, in extreme cases - in early autumn. The selected place is carefully dug up, all large weeds are removed. The dimensions of the pit should be sufficient for the free location of the roots, approximately 60 by 60 cm. If necessary, acidify. The seedling is lowered into a recess and covered, carefully tamping the soil. The root neck is not deeply buried, sometimes completely leaving it on the surface. Then it is plentifully watered and mulched, for example, with compost.

A layer of mulch - ten centimeters to keep moisture longer.

It is very important not to allow the earthen clod to dry out too much! This rule works both with young seedlings and with long-established specimens. Hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so you should pay attention to the state of the soil mixture. However, turning its habitat into a swamp is also not worth it. Everything is good in moderation!

Don't over-fertilize

Some growers don't over-fertilize the tree, but it still blooms beautifully. But, like any other plant, panicled hydrangea will not refuse additional feeding and will thank you with a guaranteed result.

Slurry, nettle infusion, urea, mullein or ordinary citric acid can be used as "goodies". It is also not worth overdoing with fertilizers in order to avoid lowering and breaking the stems under the weight of the inflorescences. A triple moderate top dressing is enough: before the swelling of the kidneys, in the process of opening the foliage and during flowering.

Whether it is worth doing top dressing at all - everyone decides for himself. The main indicator of necessity is the appearance and flowering of the shrub.

Expert opinion

Yuliya Yurievna

I have a large garden and kitchen garden, several greenhouses. I love modern methods of plant cultivation and soil mulching, and I share my experience.

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You can choose a sunny area for hydrangea, but on condition that the rays touch it only in the morning and evening. It is good if the soil is not only acidic, but loamy and fertilized. Although this is a moisture-loving plant, stagnant moisture will lead to unpleasant consequences. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thick layer of drainage on the bottom of the planting hole. For this purpose, you can use expanded clay, gravel, broken bricks. You can sprinkle sand on top. It can also be placed in the ground, which will be used to sprinkle the rhizome.

As for the planting period, it depends on the climate. If it is quite warm, then bushes can be planted in early September. It is not worth delaying until a later time, otherwise the hydrangea will not have time to take root. If everything goes well, then your pet will begin to bloom in the coming season. When planting in spring, you need to wait until the earth warms up well and the frosts finally recede.

If you plan to plant several shrubs, then they should be placed no closer than at a distance of 120-130 centimeters between the plants. You need to pay attention to the roots. If it has dried up, then before planting it is advisable to soak it for a day in water. We recommend adding a root growth stimulant to it.

It will be better if the buds are cut from the bush in the first season. This will help the development of the roots. With this approach, the plant will better endure the winter and increase resistance to negative environmental factors.

Hydrangea should be moistened about twice a week. Approximately 25-30 liters of water are required at a time. If possible, it is better to defend the water before watering, since the presence of impurities, especially chlorine, will have a bad effect on the plant.

Complex mineral mixtures can be used as the first top dressing. When budding has begun, we recommend using potassium sulfide superphosphates. In August, organic matter is applied. It is better to apply it in liquid form, so the plant will quickly receive nutrients. We do not recommend neglecting loosening the soil. Dried crust on the surface can interfere with the retention of moisture in the soil. The depth of loosening is about 8 centimeters.

Formation of hydrangea

In order for paniculate hydrangea to become an ornament of the landscape, it is recommended to prune twice a year - in autumn and spring.

Dried panicles are removed before the onset of winter to avoid deflection and deformation of the twigs.

Cut level - approximately to the initial buds. The main formation is done in early March. There are two cropping methods.

First option. Hydrangea is grown by bush. For this, strong pruning is done in the spring. The main branches are cut to three buds, and frozen, dried and broken rods are completely eliminated, without leaving stumps. Excess root shoots are removed, leaving only a few strong shoots. If the shrub will serve as a hedge, then pruning can be done more sparingly.

The paniculate type of hydrangea has a fast growth and "merciless" shortening of the trunks helps rejuvenation, proper tillering and abundant flowering of the plant.

The second way. Hydrangea paniculata is formed by a low (about a meter!) tree. Having chosen the most powerful trunk from the seedling, all the rest are removed. The sprouts that appear then are left, but pinched, several times per season. This is necessary for better nutrition and thickening of the main trunk.

If sprouts appear, pinch them out

The work is repeated annually until the frame reaches the desired height. Then the crowning process begins. What it should be depends on the desire and imagination of the creator. Annual shoots are shortened to two to four buds every year until the planned result is achieved.

Hydrangea paniculata in the form of a tree looks stylish and beautiful. It can be planted in a tub or grown on the porch. But it is worth remembering that the wood of this member of the family is quite fragile, so the trunk needs additional support.

Reproduction

It is quite easy to increase the number of flowering beauties on your territory. This can be done using layering or summer cuttings. Naturally, there is also a seed method, but it is so laborious and inefficient that it is almost never used.

The easiest option is layering. To do this, a small depression is dug next to the shrub, where the shoot is placed, covered with soil and pressed with an iron hairpin or stone. To speed up the rooting process, cuts are made on the layering. The following year, it is separated and transplanted.

Green cuttings are carried out in June-July.

Select young annual branches. Length - 10-12 cm. All leaves and buds, except for the top ones, are cut off. The lower cut is made obliquely, the upper one is straight. If necessary, the “blank” is treated with a root stimulator, although this applies more to lignified shoots. The seedling is deepened by two to three centimeters, generously watered, covered and shaded if a sunny place is chosen for planting. With a successful outcome, the cuttings will “acquire” a root system within a month.

No matter how hardy the hydrangea is, one-year-old young growth for the winter should be covered, for example, with spruce paws. Next year, this will no longer be necessary.

While watching the video you will learn

An unprepossessing area will acquire a special charm if you plant paniculate hydrangea on it. Lush clusters of flowers will delight until late autumn, and cut and dried, they will be a pleasant reminder of a warm summer.

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Ornamental

outdoor planting and care, species, propagation

Many gardeners buy the wrong species and varieties, so they do not succeed. Usually they take the most spectacular bushes, with blue and pink inflorescences. But this is a large-leaved hydrangea, and it is the most thermophilic. Yes, it can also be grown in the middle lane, but you have to tinker a lot. But there are more unpretentious species that are not afraid of frost.

Winter-hardy hydrangeas

The genus Hydrangea includes 52 species (1), but much less is used in horticulture. And there are two truly frost-resistant ones: tree hydrangea and panicled hydrangea. Experienced gardeners usually have no problems with them. Know yourself to water without sparing, fertilize when necessary, and cut if the bush is thickened and the inflorescences are crushed. These hydrangeas winter in the middle lane without shelter, but to the north they freeze slightly without it.

Winter-hardy varieties of Hydrangea arborescens

Hydrangea arborescens most famous is Annabelle (Annabelle), with large caps of snow-white inflorescences. The bush is sprawling, in favorable conditions it grows up to 1.5 m. The branches often bend under the weight of the inflorescences, especially after rain. Almost as popular are Grandiflora (Grandiflora) with cream and Sterilis (Sterilis) with white-green, then whitening petals.

But the lesser-known novelties so far: Hayes Starburst (Hayes Starburst) with white double flowers, Incredible (Incredible) (first lemon green, then white, and green by autumn). And, of course, pink Invincibelle Spirit (Invincibelle Spirit)!

Winter-hardy varieties of panicled hydrangea

The most common decorative form of panicled hydrangea is Grandiflora (Grandiflora). When blooming, its inflorescences up to 30 cm long are creamy white, then pure white, later they turn pink, and in autumn they become greenish-red. And this is the most frost-resistant variety in the middle lane (2)! Take a closer look at other varieties of panicle hydrangea. For example, to dwarf Bobo (Bobo) 60 - 70 cm high. Inflorescences abundantly covering the bush, first in lemon-green tones, then turn white and even turn slightly pink. Slightly larger than Little Lime (Little Lime). In partial shade, the flowers of this hydrangea are greenish all season, and in the sun they acquire a pinkish tint by autumn. Wims Red (Wim's Red), 1.5 - 2 m high. Blooming flowers are first creamy white, then pink and wine red by autumn.

And the most beautiful are Pinky Winky (Pinky Winky), Vanille Fraise (Vanille Fraise) and Limelight (Limelight) - they gain the highest marks in all indicators of decorativeness (3).

Photo: Anatoly Zhdanov

Winter-hardy varieties of large-leaved hydrangea

New - hydrangea Endless Summer (Endless Summer). Pink and blue. Blooming on the shoots of both the past and the current year! That is, remontant, and even wintering normally in the middle lane. Yes, with cover.

There are 9 more0174 Twits and Shout (Twist and Shout) - she has blue and pink varieties. And also variety Expression (Expression): its graceful flowers are purple-blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. All of them can withstand up to -29 ° C.

That is, a gardener who has taken care of a winter shelter for hydrangeas will be able to admire flowering from July to September-October! The main thing is to open them on time, but not too early in the spring, and in the summer, especially hot, indulge in watering.

Planting hydrangea outdoors

Hydrangea likes rich soils and does not tolerate excess lime. When planting in a pit, you need to add humus, peat, a little sand to clay soil. It would be good to mulch the trunk circle with riding (red) peat or coniferous litter.

It is better to plant hydrangeas in the garden in late spring. Seedlings with well-developed roots can be planted in early September. In the summer? After all, it is known that container plants can be planted throughout the warm season. Theoretically, this also applies to hydrangeas, but the problem is that in summer it is very hot and dry, and hydrangeas are water drinkers. If you live in a country house or you have a country house and you have the opportunity to water the sazhens every day, then plant it. If you come to the site on weekends, it is better not to risk it.

Planting holes are dug 50 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. Humus, peat are added to it, and a little sand is added to clay soil.

If the soil is alkaline, it must be acidified with high-moor peat, Kemira-universal fertilizer or Acid plus acidifier. Lime and ash must not be brought into the planting pits! They alkalize the soil.

Hydrangea has a shallow root system, so it is not recommended to plant it close to trees and other shrubs - they will take moisture from it.

After planting, it is useful to mulch the trunk circle with high-moor peat or coniferous litter.

Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail Frolov Photo: Mikhail Frolov

Hydrangea care in open ground

Watering. Hydrangeas should be watered abundantly and often. In summer, it is supposed to pour 3-5 buckets of water under each bush! In hot weather - twice a week. On rainy days, once a week.

If it is not possible to water twice a week, it is necessary to mulch the soil with peat in a layer of 5 - 10 cm - it slows down the evaporation of water from the soil.

Top dressing . Over the summer, hydrangeas need three top dressings:

In the spring, at the beginning of growth - 2 tbsp. spoons of urea, 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1.5 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m.
During the budding period - 3 - 4 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m.
At the end of summer - 1.5 - 2 buckets of humus or compost for each bush.

Mineral fertilizers are spread evenly under the bush, covered with a rake and watered. Humus and compost are poured out in an even layer - it is not necessary to close up their soil.

Cutting. In order for the hydrangea to bloom profusely and for a long time, it must be cut off annually - then more additional shoots with flowers are formed. Usually leave 6 - 10 of the strongest shoots. And they, in turn, are shortened, cut off the top with 2 - 5 kidneys.

Propagation of hydrangeas in the open field

There are 4 ways to propagate hydrangeas: seeds, layering, green cuttings and lignified cuttings. It is difficult to propagate with seeds and this method is only suitable for species plants - varieties will not retain their characteristics. So it's not worth the hassle. But the rest of the ways are pretty simple.

Layering . The easiest way is to just bend the lower branch to the ground, pin it with wire, sprinkle it with earth, and bring the top up and tie it to a peg. You can do this throughout the summer. In the spring of next year, until the leaves have blossomed, the shoot is cut off from the bush, dug up with a clod of earth and planted in a permanent place.

Green cuttings. They are cut in mid-June 15-20 cm long. The lower pair of leaves is cut off. The lower cut is treated with Heterauxin or Kornevin (4) and stuck into loose soil so that it contains at least one internode (preferably two). The leaves are cut to 2/3 so as not to evaporate a lot of moisture. The planted cutting is covered with a jar or plastic bottle.

It is better to root the cuttings in the shade . They are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring of next year.

Woody cuttings. They are cut in the first half of April. The technology is the same as with green cuttings. But they take root worse.