Wisteria on house

Will Wisteria Damage Your Home or Building Walls, Foundation and More

Wisteria is a big risk, big reward kind of plant. If you have the time, energy, and space to maintain these vigorous growers properly, you’ll enjoy the romantic blooms and unique twisted vines for years to come. Still, some naive growers eventually find themselves trapped in a horror story of unchecked Wisteria gone wild.

Wisteria has the potential to cause damage to anything it comes into contact with, but that doesn’t always mean that it will tear your house down. These huge and heavy mature vines live for many, many years. So, they need a strong support system and lots of maintenance to keep them in check.

This article will discuss the kinds of damage Wisteria can do and share some do’s and don’ts for planting. We’ll also answer your questions about how Wisteria may interact with your lawn or garden and give you some tips for keeping it under control.

Will Wisteria Damage Your Home and Yard?

When you decide to plant a Wisteria vine, there are two things you need to think about carefully. First off, consider the plant’s location, and second is whether you’re willing and able to keep up with the necessary maintenance. Wisteria is a very strong, vigorously growing vine. It’s pretty hard to kill, and it will grow without much effort on your part. So, to keep this aggressive vine in check, you’ll need to be very intentional with your pruning and maintenance.

Wisteria can certainly cause damage to your home and yard if it’s planted in a poor location or left to grow without pruning and trimming. It can climb underneath siding, onto roofs and gutters, and cause damage to weak fences. It’s also known to choke out other plants.

However, that doesn’t mean that you’re doomed with having one of these beauties in your yard. As with so many other plants, proper care and maintenance are key! Keeping your Wisteria contained and training it to grow where you want is fairly simple as long as you keep up with it each year.

It’s also important to remember that not all Wisterias are created equal. There are three main types, and they have different behaviors and slightly different characteristics.

Chinese and Japanese Wisteria are what you typically find for sale online and in some nurseries. They’re the most aggressive growers, but they also have the most delicate, longest, and most fragrant racemes (blooms). These Asian varieties can grow 60 to 100 feet in length (or more), so they are truly massive at maturity. And, you should also consider that they can live for decades – fifty years or more!

There’s also a native variety – American Wisteria – that’s much less aggressive and easier to control. If you haven’t already planted a Wisteria and are considering it, I’d recommend going with a native variety. Another native option, Kentucky Wisteria, displays more bluish than purple racemes, and it’s equally as lovely. (Read more about Wisteria varieties here.)

The different varieties are important to know about because the most aggressive varieties are the ones that are most likely to cause damage to your home or yard. Left uncontrolled, Chinese Wisteria grows so rapidly that it can overtake other plants, kill trees, and damage local ecosystems. It will grow in virtually any conditions, meaning that it can climb and crawl into shaded areas and underneath existing brush, causing damage along the way.

Is it Safe to Plant Wisteria?

Wisteria is perfectly safe to plant in your yard despite its bullying reputation. However, it comes with the disclaimer that Wisteria requires ongoing pruning to keep it under control. This is not a “one and done” vine. It will require your constant care and attention year after year to ensure your Wisteria does not climb into places it shouldn’t be. Don’t plant it next to anything you don’t want it to climb, unless you’re prepared to prune and train the vine once or twice each year.

It’s generally not a good idea to plant non-native invasive species of any plant, Wisteria included. Chinese and Japanese Wisterias are both invasive in parts of the U. S., and they can cause big problems for the environment if they get out of control. Still, many people have these giant, beautiful vines growing on their property without it becoming disastrous.

Understanding how Wisteria grows and climbs is important for ensuring that it doesn’t make its way into areas where you don’t want it. Wisteria is a climber that uses tendrils to twist its way up anything it can grab ahold of. Unlike ivy and other vines that use suckers to adhere to surfaces, Wisteria needs to reach around something to creep upward. That’s why your Wisteria needs a good, sturdy support system for climbing.

So, if you plant Wisteria next to a fence or wall, it will eventually cover the area. However, if the fence isn’t strong enough to support the mature vine’s massive size and weight, it could easily tear it down. That’s part of the reason that Wisteria gets such a bad reputation.

To learn more about what Wisteria will climb and how to train it to climb where you want (and keep it out of areas you don’t), check out this article.

Does Wisteria Have a Big Root System?

Wisteria grows into a massive mature vine, potentially reaching lengths of 100 feet or more. The thick stems grow and expand into enormous twisting trunks powerful enough to tear down fences and arbors. So, it should be no surprise that mature Wisteria also has large, aggressive root systems.

Since Wisteria vines become so large and heavy, they need massive roots to anchor the plant. As such, the root systems grow deep into the ground. Wisteria roots typically grow two to three feet deep, but maybe up to ten feet deep in mature vines that have been in place for many, many years. Wisteria roots can become a problem if you plant the vine too close to existing structures or underground piping. However, in most cases, the roots will move around obstructions or grow in another direction if they run into something under the soil.

Most growers who run into problems with their Wisteria find that the issue is above ground rather than below. Wisteria roots are most likely to grow straight down rather than spread out very wide. This is because the plant climbs upward, so the growing energy is mainly directed to the tendrils and foliage. However, Wisteria can grow suckers from the root system, which should be removed as soon as you spot them to keep the vine contained.

Potential Damage from Wisteria Roots

Wisteria roots can cause damage in some cases if you plant the vine in the wrong location. While Wisteria doesn’t typically cause the kinds of problems that large tree roots can create, it’s still a woody vine that can potentially creep into undesirable areas.

If you plant your Wisteria right over your septic tank, irrigation system piping, or other underground pipes, drains, or structures, there’s always the possibility that the root system could cause damage. However, Wisteria roots aren’t as dangerous as some other plants that actively sprout outwards from the root systems.

Bigger issues like subsidence or damage to your foundation are possible but unlikely. Unless you live in a very old house with weak structural foundations, Wisteria roots will probably not do any major damage to your foundation or walls.

The only exception could be if you have clay soil. There have been some reports of mature Wisteria roots depleting the soil of moisture, causing it to dry out and crack or otherwise weakening the clay in small patches underneath the foundation. This could cause some localized settling, but it’s always good to seek professional advice if you suspect damage to your foundation.

There are plenty of examples of large Wisteria vines growing just fine along the walls of brick buildings worldwide. In those cases, the roots aren’t lifting the building off the foundation or causing it to collapse and crumble. It’s really just another example of Wisteria’s aggressive reputation. When it comes to Wisteria, you should focus your attention on controlling the growth above the ground more than worrying about the roots underneath the soil.

Can I Grow Wisteria On My Home?

If you’ve spent any time on the internet looking up information about Wisteria, you’ve seen countless images of lush foliage and whimsical blooms cascading across brick buildings. You might even be daydreaming about how those vines would look creeping around your own home’s windows and door frames. Who doesn’t want to live in those fairytale pictures?

But, whether or not you can (or should) grow Wisteria on your home is a tricky topic. In most cases, you can grow the vine on the outside of your house, but you’ll have to take the right steps to prepare the area and be extra vigilant about keeping the vine from creeping into unwanted spaces. As stated before, Wisteria can and will creep into any place its tendrils can reach.

We recommend planting Wisteria on another sturdy structure away from your home. Growing any plant too close to your house creates the potential for all kinds of problems, including pests, moisture damage, and structural damage from the plant itself. However, Wisteria is a little different because of the way it grows.

If you have your heart set on training your Wisteria to grow on your house, you should only do so if your home is built from bricks or concrete blocks. Wood is especially susceptible to damage, and it’s harder to keep the vine from creeping into small spaces. You’ll also still want to be mindful of the roof, shutters, and gutter system.

For our advice on the safest way to grow Wisteria up an exterior wall, read: What Will a Wisteria Climb? How To Train It to Climb Walls and More.

Potential Damage to Structures from Wisteria Vines

Most of the horror stories that you hear about Wisteria are related to structural damage. Wisteria can tear down a fence or wall, cause a pergola or arbor to collapse, and cause severe damage to your home. That’s why we don’t recommend planting it right next to your house, shed, garage, neighbor’s house, or anything else that you don’t want it climbing onto. However, all those issues can be prevented by planning ahead and regular maintenance.

Wisteria can creep into any small crack or crevice it finds, meaning it can poke underneath siding or roof tiles. As it matures and grows, it will crack or damage the structure. Not to mention that it can create a breach for water and moisture to get into walls or underneath shingles.

Wisteria has been known to grow into cracks and openings around doors and windows, buckling the frames or breaking glass. It can get behind shutters and pop them off or cause other damage. Vines can climb into gutters or wrap around downspouts. There are countless ways that this aggressive vine can poke and prod its way into your home’s exterior.

Another concern is the mature vine’s sheer size and weight. A mature Wisteria is big and heavy, so it requires a very strong support system to keep it upright. What often happens is someone buys a small vine and plants it next to a fence, standard-sized arbor, or pergola. The vine happily climbs and grows for several years, getting bigger and bigger, but eventually, it becomes hard to see the structure anymore because the vine has completely overtaken it. Once the Wisteria gets big and heavy enough, owners will find that the entire structure has collapsed under the vine’s massive weight.

So, if you want to plant your Wisteria next to something to climb on, it’s essential to consider how big and heavy the mature plant will be. To learn how to grow Wisteria on a pergola and what kind of structure you’ll need to support the vine, check out this article.

The same rules apply if you want to grow your Wisteria near a fence or wall. You’ll need to ensure the structure is strong enough to support the vine’s weight. That usually means you’ll need to use metal posts and anchor them deep into the ground. If you grow Wisteria next to a brick wall, you can use metal wires anchored into the wall to give the vine something to climb on.

The same goes for wooden posts. Be sure to use metal wire systems anchored into the wood to give the Wisteria’s tendrils something to twist around as it climbs. Otherwise, the structure will collapse under the mature vine’s weight.

Does Wisteria Harm Other Plants?

Wisteria can harm other plants and trees if allowed to invade the surrounding ecosystem without any maintenance. The vine grows aggressively and will overtake nearby plants for sunlight, water, and other resources.

While it may be tempting to allow Wisteria to climb up a large tree’s trunk, it’s not a good idea. It might be a lovely sight at first, but don’t be fooled by the delicate look of the vine crawling up a tree trunk. Wisteria can kill trees and plants if left unchecked.

Despite its smothering abilities, Wisteria will not typically strangle itself. It has many stems and tendrils growing upward, so it wouldn’t naturally smother its own stems unless you trained it to grow back around itself. However, it can become damaged by support structures if it’s tied too tightly or if it outgrows the space. When training a young Wisteria, it’s important to check ties and adjust them as the plant grows and the stems get thicker.

Potential Damage to Trees and Plants from Wisteria Vines

Wisteria can pose a serious threat to nearby trees and plants, especially if it’s introduced into an ecosystem and left to grow rampant for long periods. It’s never a good idea to let Wisteria grow onto a tree. Even if it’s a huge tree, Wisteria can still cause damage.

Because Wisteria is a twining vine, it won’t just climb straight up the side of the tree. Over time, it will wrap around the trunk until it reaches the top. It will also spread out and twist around limbs and branches, strangling and suffocating the growth. Another problem is the vine’s weight. Depending on how big the tree is, the heavyweight of a large Wisteria vine could weaken the tree’s limbs and make it more susceptible to damage.

Wisteria will continue to grow for decades. They live for fifty years or more, which means surrounding plant life will be under siege for a very long time if the Wisteria vine is never cut back or pruned. These vines will compete for water, sunlight, space, nutrients, and any other resources it needs. And Wisteria will usually win.

Tendrils are constantly looking for something to climb on. So, if it finds a limb or branch on a nearby tree or shrub, it will continue to twist and climb until it reaches the top. Then, it will continue to reach up and outward until it finds something else to grab onto.

In that way, the Wisteria will overtake anything around it. That’s why it’s important to keep your Wisteria’s vine maintained and ensure it doesn’t make its way onto your neighbor’s property. That’s also why we recommend going with native, non-invasive species that are less aggressive and pose less of a risk to the environment like American or Kentucky Wisteria.

How to Manage an Out of Control Wisteria

Most people dealing with an out-of-control Wisteria either planted it many years ago and left it unattended, or they inherited an already out of control Wisteria when they moved into a new home. In either case, it’s possible to prune your vine back into submission. But it’s no easy task.

If you live in the southern United States, you’re in for even more of a battle. These vines thrive in the warm sunshine, so they grow even faster and recover from aggressive pruning quickly. Still, you can groom the monstrous vine back into a graceful princess with the right approach.

If you have a Wisteria that’s already running wild, you will have to take a radical approach and give the vine a hard prune. Depending on how big it is, you may need to use a ladder to reach the top of the growth. In some cases, you may even need to call in a professional landscaper to help with the process.

It’s best to do a hard prune during the winter months when the plant is dormant, and there are no leaves. You’ll be able to best see the vine’s shape and identify which ones to remove. Depending on how big the plant is, you may want to spread out the hard prune over a couple of seasons, so you don’t stress the plant too much.

Start by cutting from the top, and trimming the vine down to a manageable height. You should be able to do this with a pair of hand pruners or loppers, but you may need to use a garden saw if the vine is too thick.

If the Wisteria is climbing onto areas where you don’t want it, like the side of a tree, on a weak fence or pergola, or up the side of your house, pull it down and cut those branches all the way down to the base. Trim back the excessively long shoots and prune away any dead branches. Check around the Wisteria’s base and cut any suckers down to the ground. For more information about pruning and maintaining a Wisteria, you can read How, When, Where, and Why to Prune Wisteria.

If you want to train the vine to grow into a tree shape (also known as a standard), that’s another option to help control it from growing too wild. It’s easier to train a Wisteria when it’s young, so it depends on how big the vine is and how established it is. Growing Wisteria into a tree shape is a popular way to keep it under control, so we’ve dedicated a whole article to it that you can read here.

How to Rid Your Yard of an Established Wisteria Plant

In some cases, you may decide that it’s best to remove your Wisteria plant altogether. While these vines are beauties, they can also just be too much to handle for some gardeners. Luckily, there are several methods you can use to rid your yard of unwanted Wisteria, but some of them are easier than others.

If you truly want to rid your yard of all things Wisteria, you’ll need to kill or remove all the branches, foliage, seeds, and the vine’s root system. Just know that Wisteria is a vigorous grower that doesn’t give up without a fight. So, you’ll have to be thorough and persistent to win this battle.

If you’re dealing with just one plant and it’s not too massive, you could opt to dig it up. While this method is labor-intensive, it’s also quick and doesn’t require applying poisons or chemicals. If the Wisteria is growing near other plants that you want to keep, this might be the best method for you.

Before digging up the roots, you should cut the stems down so that only a small stump or trunk remains. You don’t want to cut it all the way down to the ground because you need to have something to grab onto and use for leverage.

After you cut it down, use a pointed shovel or spade to dig into the ground around the vine, going about two feet out from the trunk and digging down to the roots. You may need to chop through some of the roots to loosen up the root ball. Once you dig a circle around the trunk, you may be able to insert the shovel at an angle and get underneath the root ball. Work your way around the trunk, inserting the shovel and making a prying motion underneath the root ball.

Eventually, you should get it loose enough to pull the root ball up from the ground. Continue to dig around and remove any more roots you can find, so they don’t start creating new shoots. After the main plant is removed, you’ll have to watch for new growth and work to kill or remove it quickly. You may have to do this for several seasons to completely eradicate the Wisteria.

An easier method is to cut the Wisteria down to just a stump and then apply herbicide to the cut area to kill the rest of the plant and roots. This is the method preferred by most people because it’s so much easier than manually removing the plant. However, it’s not always an option if you don’t want to harm any nearby plants or don’t like using chemicals in your lawn or garden.

To learn more about these methods and a few other options for removing established Wisteria from your yard, read Ridding Your Yard of Wisteria: Five Methods for Getting Rid of Wisteria.

Putting It All Together

Wisteria is one of those plants that, when you see it fully grown and in bloom, it’s hard not to want one of your own. Some people may shy away from growing Wisteria because of its reputation. Still, if you take the time to plant it in the right place, give it the appropriate type of support, and commit to pruning and maintenance, you can enjoy these vines for many years.

Wisteria can potentially cause a lot of damage to buildings, walls, plants, and other nearby things. But, there are plenty of other trees and plants that are equally as capable of creating havoc for growers who don’t care for them properly.

So, before you shy away in fear of what Wisteria might do, take the time to consider what you can do to maintain this lovely vine and enjoy its beautiful fragrant displays each spring or summer.

To continue reading about Wisteria, check out these articles:

What Will a Wisteria Climb? How To Train It to Climb Walls and More
How, When, Where, and Why to Prune Wisteria
Does Wisteria Always Take Over? Tips and Tricks to Keep it Under Control
Ridding Your Yard of Wisteria: Five Methods for Getting Rid of Wisteria
Wisteria and Pergolas: What to Know to Cover Your Pergola In Flowers

Why Don't You Plant Wisteria Close to Your House? | Home Guides

By Kimberley McGee Updated October 16, 2019

They are favored for their long, fragrant swags of blossoms. Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), American wisteria (wisteria frutescens) and Chinese wisteria (wisteria sinensis) make lovely additions to your garden and can make a beautiful arch. However, in some states, they are considered an invasive species.

It's often not a good idea to plant your wisteria on a house next to a door. The fast-growing Japanese wisteria plant grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, and Chinese wisteria grows best in zones 5 to 8, while the American wisteria thrives in zones 6 through 9. They are favored for their quick establishing traits, but this same characteristic can also make a wisteria a nuisance when it’s planted next to a structure.

Planting Wisteria Tips

Wisteria does best when planted in autumn or spring. Before sinking your wisteria into the ground, add plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure. The soil should be fertile from the beginning to create lush blooms. Bare root wisterias should be planted at the soil mark located toward the base of the stem where it was panted in the ground at the nursery.

Water the plant regularly during the first year and after it’s established. Apply a high potash feed to the wisteria's root system during the spring to boost flower production. Overfeeding can create fuller foliage but fewer flowers. Prune side shoots to three to five buds during the growing season and remove any unwanted growth.

Supporting a Wisteria

Wisterias love a good wall, and they can be trained to grow as an espalier by using horizontal support wires. A sturdy pergola can handle the weight of the woody stems and clusters of fragrant flowers.

Place the supports around the wisteria before planting. Select the strongest branches and tie those horizontally onto the wire framework. Leave 18 inches between each branch to give it room to grow.

Different Types of Wisteria

There are 10 species in the wisteria genus with numerous cultivars, but only two main species are typically planted in gardens in the United States, the Chinese and Japanese wisteria.

American wisteria has smaller clusters of flowers in white or purple, and Chinese wisteria features a mix of blue and white clusters. Japanese wisteria has white, blue, lavender and violet clusters of flowers that can grow well over 3 feet long.

Wisteria on a House

Location is an important factor when considering adding a wisteria to your garden. Wisterias have a long life and form heavy woody stems, so they need to have a lot of support throughout their growing cycle. Once they have been planted and made a place their home, they are difficult to remove and replant.

These fast-growing and aggressive vines can wind their way over entryways and may crack or damage facades. The vines will creep through any cracks in the side of the home or in crevices, pushing their way through the exterior and buckling siding. It can wind its way under roof tiles and create water damage after a big rain.

Wisteria can also clog gutters, cover and even break glass windows, remove decorative shutters, or otherwise damage the exterior of your home within just a few months during peak growing season.

References

Fine Gardening: American Wisteria
Fine Gardening: Japanese Wisteria
The Old Farmer's Almanac: Wisteria

Writer Bio

Kimberley McGee is an award-winning journalist with 20+ years of experience writing for a variety of clients, including The New York Times, Las Vegas Review-Journal Home section and other national publications. As a professional writer she has researched, interviewed sources and written about home improvement, interior design and related business trends. She earned a B.A. in Journalism from the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Her full bio and clips can be viewed at www.vegaswriter.com.

Is it possible to grow wisteria at home?

Content

1 Types and Glycinini varieties
- 1.1 Chinese
- 1.2 Frost -resistant (Blue Moon)
- 1.3 abundantly flowering or multi -flowered
2 Planting glycinia at home
- 2.1 Requirements for
- 2. 2 CHOOK CHOOSS locations
- 2.3 How and when to plant?
3 Wisteria care at home
- 3.1 Temperature regime and lighting
- 3.2 Watering and top dressing
- 3.3 Cabbage
- 3.4 Rules in winter
4 PROBLEMING Plant
5 Diseases and Pests
6 Features of Glycinia Growing
- 6.3 In Siberia
- 6.4 In the middle zone
7 Germination of seedlings
8 Seedling care
- 9.1 photo
- 9.2 Landing
- 9,0005 9.3 Watering
- 9.4 Air humidity
- 9.5 Temperature regime
- 9.6 FORMING
- 9,000 9.7 LIFTION
- 9000 9.9 Flowering 9000 9000 9.9 Putation
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 10
10.2 Chlorosis

11 Pests

11.1 Aphids
11.2 Clover mite

12 Description of the appearance of wisteria

18 Wisteria tree - description

19 Growing wisteria from seeds

19. 1 How to grow wisteria from seeds.
19.2 Wisteria seedlings.

20 Planting wisteria

20.1 When to plant wisteria.
20.2 How to plant wisteria.

21 Caring for wisteria in the garden

21.1 How to grow wisteria.
21.2 Flowering wisteria.
21.3 Pruning wisteria.
21.4 Propagation of wisteria.
21.5 Pests and diseases of wisteria.

22 Types and glycine varieties

22.1 Wisteria Chinese (Wisteria Chinensis)
22.2 Glycinia is plentifully flowering, or multi -flowered (Wisteria Floribunda),

23 24000 24 ° C. (Wisteria chinensis)

24.2 Profuse flowering wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)

24.3 Shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens)

24.4 Glycinia beautiful (Wisteria Venusta)

24.5 Bellywood Visteria (Wisteria Macrostachys)

25 Preparation for planting

26 Planting and growing process 9000,000 27 Care for Care

9000 9000 9000 9000 28 Grits , which can often be found in Ukraine and the Crimea, is not yet very common in Russia.

And in vain - caring for her is not so difficult, you can grow wisteria at home, in pots and tubs. But it is difficult to imagine anything more beautiful than this plant. When wisteria is in bloom in spring, it gives the complete impression that it came from the Garden of Eden. Care and cultivation of wisteria is a fascinating activity.

Types and varieties of wisteria

Florists are interested in those types of wisteria that can successfully grow within Russia. First of all, these are:

Chinese Wisteria

It is clear from the name that its homeland is China. A tree-like plant under favorable conditions can reach a height of 20 m. However, in Russia it grows better in the southern regions, and, of course, indoors.

The size of large leaves reaches up to 30 cm, and flower clusters - up to 40 cm. When such a wisteria blooms, the sight is simply fantastic. Moreover, flowering can last all summer, and even capture September.

Chinese Wisteria - Liana - loves bright light, but will not die in the shade. As for the soil, it should be moist and fertile.

As for growing at home - such a large vine, of course, will need regular pruning.

In outdoor conditions, wisteria can withstand temperatures down to -20°C, but such frosts should not be prolonged, otherwise the plant will die.

Frost-resistant (Blue Moon)

This wisteria comes from the other side - it grows naturally in North America. Its name translated into Russian sounds beautiful - "Blue Moon". And it is much more suitable for outdoor cultivation in Russia.

Blue moon wisteria can grow up to 8 m. It has dark green leaves and blue or purple flowers. Wisteria blooms in June, and its flowering lasts up to 3 weeks.

She will successfully survive the Russian winter, as she is able to withstand frosts down to -40°C.

The plant prefers to grow on the south side of the site, where there is always enough sun, it likes black earth from soils, and unlike Chinese wisteria does not require abundant watering.

Profuse or multi-flowered

And this luxurious wisteria comes from Japan. And although the size of the vine is not amazing - up to 10 m, the leaves and flowers of this wisteria are impressive. Leaves - up to 40 cm, and inflorescences - up to 70 cm. The colors are different - white, reddish, purple.

Can grow in Russia, but cold only tolerates down to -25°C. The soil likes fertile, well-drained.

Planting wisteria at home

Planting wisteria at home is not that difficult. It is only important to follow certain rules.

Soil requirements

Wisteria prefers black earth or loamy soils. It is especially important for her that there is no stagnant water on the site. In some cases, in order to grow this spectacular plant, the planting site is specially filled with fertile soil and drainage is provided.

Selecting a location

At least 6 hours a day, bright sunlight should fall on the wisteria. So the place for landing must be chosen taking into account this condition. Considering that the blooming wisteria will “stream” like a waterfall along the wall of the house, the plant is usually planted on the south or southeast side of the building.

But at the same time it is necessary that the growth of wisteria is not interfered with by the wind, and that the plant has a sufficiently reliable support.

How and when to plant?

While most plants are traditionally planted in spring or autumn, the timing of planting wisteria depends on how you intend to propagate it.

The seeds are planted in December, in the greenhouse.

Cuttings root better in spring. They can be planted both in a greenhouse and in open ground, if the soil is fertile enough, and it is already warm outside.

Care of wisteria at home

Care of wisteria comes down to providing the plant with proper lighting, watering, and regular fertilization.

Temperature and lighting

Wisteria, planted in the garden, easily adapts to Russian temperatures, excluding areas with very cold winters. A well-lit place should be chosen, where the vines are not threatened by drafts and strong winds.

Shoots for further successful growth must be tied up, and the plant itself must be provided with a strong support.

Watering and feeding

The main requirement for watering is that it should be regular, but not excessive. That is, it is important that the ground at the roots of wisteria is always wet, but the plant does not tolerate stagnant water.

As for top dressing, in order for wisteria to reach its maximum size, have bright foliage and bloom profusely, it is required to be applied throughout the warm season.

You can use compost, rotted manure, complex fertilizers.

In spring, wisteria is fed once every 7-10 days, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.

Responsive vine to the introduction of superphosphate, biohumus, peat. It is recommended to water the wisteria with chalky water from time to time.

Pruning

This is a very important part of wisteria care. How correctly the pruning is done will depend on how many flowers will appear on the vine. Cut wisteria 2 times a year according to a certain pattern.

During planting, the main shoot of the plant is cut with secateurs, leaving up to 90 cm and a strong bud. Side shoots are removed.

In the summer of the 1st year, the top shoot of the plant is tied vertically, and the side shoots are tied at an angle of 45 degrees.

In the winter of the 2nd year, the main stem is cut at a height of 80 cm, the side shoots are shortened by a third.

In the summer of the 2nd year, the main stem is tied to the support again vertically, and the side ones - at an angle of 45 degrees.

Tie up the main stems of the side branches, shorten the other branches, remove the shoots.

Starting from the 3rd year, do the same.

Rules for winter care

In order for wisteria to survive the winter safely, it must be prepared for the cold season.

Cut dry shoots, remove dried flower clusters. The liana is untied and its branches are laid around the trunk. After that, they shelter for the winter. You can use special agrofibre, burlap or thick kraft paper. Young plants try to insulate additionally - sprinkle with mulch, needles, leaves, even earth. It is undesirable to use cellophane film so that the shoots do not rot.

Plant propagation

Wisteria can be propagated in several ways. If there is no nursery nearby, then the easiest option is to plant seeds.

They are planted in November-December, in light and nutritious soil. The composition of the soil should include - leafy earth, turf, and sand - about 1/6 of the total volume. It must be remembered that building sand cannot be used for this purpose, only river sand.

Please note - the seeds are placed on the surface, and then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. The soil must be sufficiently moist. The top of the box is covered with foil.

It is advisable to keep the container or box in a dark place at room temperature, water the soil from time to time.

Seedlings appear in a month, but for another 2 weeks the plants are kept in the dark, and only then they are transferred to a lighted room.

As soon as the first leaves appear, each young wisteria is planted in its own pot. Gradually, the plants are hardened - regularly airing the room or transferring wisteria to the loggia, terrace.

Wisteria can also be propagated by layering. In the spring, the young stem is cut and placed in a box with earth, dug in, only the top of the stem should be at the top. A year later, the young plant is transplanted to another place.

Another option is propagation by cuttings.

In autumn, the strong vine with buds is cut into cuttings. Until spring, they are stored in the cellar, in damp soil. In the spring, cuttings can be immediately planted in the ground, covered with jars or plastic bottles from above.

Diseases and pests

Since wisteria is poisonous, it is rarely attacked by pests. And yet it happens. Beautiful green foliage can be spoiled by caterpillars. With a small amount, they are harvested by hand, but if there are quite a lot of caterpillars, wisteria is sprayed with biological preparations. Insecticides will help against aphids, and acaricides will save from ticks.

On the whole, wisteria is a healthy plant, diseases bypass it.

Peculiarities of growing wisteria

Russia is so big that growing wisteria has its own peculiarities in its different regions.

In the suburbs

Everything is relatively simple here. You need to choose a sunny place, and when planting the plant, provide drainage to the roots. The depth of the holes should be 25-30 cm. The plant is covered for the winter.

In the Urals

Ural climate is colder. The general rules for caring for wisteria are preserved. The plant is provided with slightly alkaline soil, fertilized regularly, protected from drafts. For the winter, a layer of peat chips is poured over the root system.

In Siberia

It should be borne in mind that tender wisteria may not endure strong and prolonged frosts. In open ground, it is worth growing only the Blue Moon here. A good option would be to plant wisteria in a large tub.

With the onset of warm weather, the plant can be taken out of the room to the street.

In the middle lane

In the middle lane, wisteria is looked after in the same way as in the Moscow region. It should be remembered that in some areas there are severe and prolonged frosts - given this, the shelter must be of high quality.

In addition, you need to pay attention to the composition of the soil. The sandy mixture is enriched with fertilizers, the clay mixture is “lightened” by adding humus, sawdust, and crushed bark.

Subject to all the rules of cultivation - every year wisteria will delight with its luxurious flowering.

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Wisteria

Wisteria (aka Wisteria) is a wonderful plant, covered with numerous brushes of fragrant inflorescences in spring.

This tree-like liana is very effective and attractive, it is able to decorate even the most sophisticated landscape.

Unfortunately, this very heat-loving inhabitant of humid subtropical regions is not able to grow in regions with cold snowy winters.

The only way out is to grow a beauty and take care of her at home.

This can be done in 2 ways : grow as a full-fledged tree-like plant or form a bonsai.

…

Luxurious wisteria, or wisteria, with long, low-hanging tassels of lilac, purple or white flowers will become an exotic decoration for any garden or house adjoining area. The plant propagates by cuttings, grafting, but growing from seeds is considered the most reliable way.

Germination of seedlings

Actually, wisteria is a subtropical vine and in nature parasitizes trees. There are 9 of its varieties, but two of the most popular are used in horticulture and landscape gardening: Chinese wisteria and profusely flowering, also called Japanese. This tree-like climbing plant belongs to the legume genus, so the seeds are beans and ripen in pods that form from faded flowers.
Planting seeds is carried out at the very beginning of winter. First, the beans need to be prepared - soak, spreading between layers of wet gauze. So they are kept until the seeds "hatch".

Ready beans are planted in a container with prepared soil. The soil mixture for wisteria should consist of three quarters of leafy soil, a quarter of turf and sand. Seeds are planted shallow, about a centimeter, and sprinkled with a layer of sand on top.

Important! A layer of drainage should be poured at the bottom of the container, otherwise you can not wait for seedlings - the plant does not like excessive moisture.

The container is then covered with film or glass and placed in a shaded, warm place. Seedling care rules:

The temperature must be constantly kept at 23-25 degrees.
The soil should be moderately moistened regularly and not allowed to dry out.
Film or glass - remove condensation by ventilating the seed container.

With the appearance of the first shoots, you can begin to adapt to the sun - daily expose the container for a couple of hours to indirect sunlight.

When the seedlings have formed two leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers. The transplant should be carried out carefully, taking the plant along with a clod of root earth, and watering the first time with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Planted seedlings are taken out every day for several hours to a cool, lit place, accustoming them to their future habitat.

Seedling care

All of the above procedures will take about five months: if the seeds were planted in early December, then they will be ready for transfer to the garden in May.

Gardener's advice. Many people prefer to germinate wisteria seeds immediately in the open field, choosing a suitable place in the garden.

In this case, start early in the spring, carefully taking care of the seedlings during the summer. By autumn, the seedlings will already be strong enough, and most importantly, they will be hardy and initially adapted to the conditions of the site.
For the first time, wisteria planted in the garden are taken care of in a standard way: they are regularly watered, fed with specialized fertilizers, and covered for the winter. As the plant grows, it will have to establish a strong support around which it will wrap itself. Chinese wisteria gives the first flowering at 3-5 years of age, and Japanese - after 10 years.
An adult plant blooms almost all spring and summer, endlessly pleasing the eyes of both the owner, who has spent a lot of effort on growing an exotic beauty, and his guests.

Wisteria (also known as Wisteria) is a wonderful plant that is covered with numerous racemes of fragrant inflorescences in spring.

This tree-like liana is very effective and attractive, it is able to decorate even the most sophisticated landscape.

Unfortunately, this very heat-loving inhabitant of humid subtropical regions is not able to grow in regions with cold snowy winters.

The only way out is to grow a beauty and take care of her at home.

This can be done 2 ways : grow as a complete tree-like plant or form a bonsai.

…

Indoor wisteria: care

How to care for wisteria at home? Wisteria cannot be classified as a problem-free and unpretentious houseplant.

To grow it, will have to put in a lot of effort .

Next we will talk about the wisteria plant: photos, care at home and in the garden, diseases and pests.

Photo

Wisteria flower: photo at home.

Planting

The root system of wisteria is small , so you should not take too large a container for growing it. At the bottom of the container, it is imperative to lay out a layer of stones (expanded clay, pebbles, broken bricks). It will not only serve as drainage, but also make the pot heavier so that the tree does not turn it over with its own weight.

Soil must is good to let water and air through to the roots, to be fertile and nutritious. It is most optimal to combine river sand, humus, high-moor peat in equal quantities and add soddy soil to the same volume. A seedling is placed in this mixture and watered abundantly.

Growing from seed is not difficult. They need to be placed in a small box on the surface of the substrate and not sprinkled on top of the ground. Germinate in a greenhouse (you can cover the container with glass or polyethylene film) in the dark.

If the soil is always moist, the seeds will germinate in 20-27 days. The next 9-12 days, the sprouts are gradually accustomed to light.

Seedlings can be dived into individual cups after the appearance of two true leaves.

Watering

Active vegetation of wisteria begins in spring . It is at this time that they begin to water it, observing moderation. 1-2 times a week will be enough. You can pour water along the edge of the container so as not to erode the soil and expose the roots.

In the autumn of development stops, so watering should be reduced, and the procedure should be carried out very infrequently.

Humidity

In the warm season, wisteria needs frequent spraying and fairly high humidity. By winter, this procedure is stopped.

Temperature regime

Wisteria is vital it is necessary to ensure a pronounced rest period in winter . At this time, it is kept at a temperature of 5-9 °. To do this, the pot is taken out to the basement or to the cold veranda.

If you leave the liana warm , at best it will not bloom in the spring, and at worst it will die.

From mid-February, the tree begins to accustom to heat, gradually raising the temperature. In a couple of weeks, the wisteria will be able to live in the house.

For summer , it is recommended to move the wisteria outdoors, placing it in the front garden or on the balcony. At this time, she perfectly tolerates any heat with regular spraying.

Top dressing

Liana needs additional food only during bud formation and subsequent flowering . It can be fertilized with any mineral concentrate for flowering plants.

Wisteria is most suitable for top dressing liquid fertilizer, which can be sprayed on the tree from above or shed the soil.

Life expectancy

With the right content, wisteria can live for a very long time, because it belongs to long-lived perennials .

Flowering

Whoever saw wisteria bloom will never forget it! Waterfall of the most beautiful fragrant earrings white, pink, blue or lilac color looks very picturesque and attractive.

You can watch this delightful spectacle from the beginning of spring until the autumn cold.

Propagation

To get new plants , you can use one of the following methods:

Collect seeds
Make layering
Root cuttings or green shoots

Seeds do not transmit varietal characteristics of hybrid species.

And these videos tell you about garden wisteria care.

Diseases

Wisteria does not have strong disease resistance . It can be attacked by both fungi and viruses.

Powdery mildew

When attacked by fungi, the leaves of become covered with an unsightly whitish layer . It is easily erased, but is soon re-announced.

Leaves begin to dry up and fall off, branches become deformed, the plant stops growing.

Fungicides of the latest generations will help to destroy harmful fungi: Previkur, Vitaros, Fundazol, Skor. The selected preparation is abundantly treated with ground parts of the vine. Usually two treatments are required.

Chlorosis

Occurs when there is a severe iron deficiency in the soil. Leaves stop producing chlorophyll and gradually turn yellow . Only the veins remain green.

It is advisable to completely replace the soil and feed it with one of the iron preparations. You can use iron chelate, Ferrilen, Ferovit, Antichlorosis.

In order for the preparations to work faster, it is recommended to spray the plant from above, and not to spill the ground.

Pests

The most harmful enemies of wisteria are clover mites and aphids .

Aphids

If the leaves begin to dry, the branches begin to bend, the flowers become smaller, and the plant languishes, then a colony of aphids has attacked the wisteria.

You can get rid of these small parasites with one of the modern insecticides: Fitoverm, Karate, Intavir, Actellik.

Clover mite

A small parasite with an oval body of inconspicuous green or brown coloration. It is very difficult to notice it - the body length barely reaches 0.4 mm. An attack can be detected by characteristic external signs.

The surface of the leaves is covered with small light strokes, then cracks. Affected leaves are twisted.

acaricides work perfectly against mites, completely ridding the plant of parasites. You can use Nissoran, Sunmite, Apollo, Fitoverm, Oberon, Omite.

Wisteria is rarely grown as a houseplant, as it requires special conditions. It is not suitable for beginner gardeners and people with an acute shortage of time.

Wisteria is a beautiful climbing plant from the tree legume family. It gets along well in a mild climate, blooms very brightly and profusely. Lovely hanging brushes of inflorescences cannot leave indifferent any person.

Contents:

Description of the appearance of wisteria
Wisteria varieties
Landing preparation
Planting and growing process
Care tips
Pests and diseases

Description of the appearance of wisteria

The first appearance of the curly beauty was recorded in North America and East Asia in subtropical regions. The plant is a perennial with woody vines. The vines grow quickly and reach 40 meters in length.

Wisteria definitely needs a support, preferably a wooden one. If the trellis is concrete, then uncovered shoots will freeze in winter. If a bush instead of a support develops on the trunk of another plant, then over time the tree will die. Wisteria in wildlife, like all vines, is a parasite.

Liana leaves are large, densely spaced. Each leaf is assembled from 10-15 separate green feathers and reaches up to 30 cm in length.

Flowering begins in June and continues until mid-autumn. Inflorescences grow up to 70 cm. Flowers come in different colors: from purple and lilac to white. A young stepson is able to bloom only in the 5th year of life, in rare cases in the 4th.

Wisteria emits an interesting delicate smell, especially bright at night. The aroma is persistent and spreads over large areas.

In order for the plant to bloom again, faded inflorescences are removed. If you do not cut the flowers, then pods with seeds inside are formed. The fruits take on a rounded shape with a white edge. Each house contains 2-3 seeds.

Wisteria seeds vary in appearance. Some fruits are green with brown flecks, while others are brown with green veins. They are easy to grow on your own at home.

Thus, the creeper is interesting not only for its appearance and original flowers, but also for leaf formation and seeds.

Varieties of Wisteria

Before planting a future plant, it is recommended to decide on the species. There are a sufficient number of vines in nature. The most famous for gardeners are the following types:

Chinese
Blooming
Shrub
Beautiful
Large-armed

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

A woody shrub that grows up to 25 m in height. Spins the vine counterclockwise only. Shoots are thin, gray. The buds appear in mid-late spring, opening all at the same time in a purple-blue hue. Exudes a faint, pleasant aroma.

Wisteria floribunda (Wisteria floribunda) profusely flowering

Unbranched shrub, reaching only 10 meters in height. Frost-resistant, does not require shelter. The leaf is powerful, up to 40 cm long. The flowers are small, bloom gradually, thereby contributing to a longer flowering. Inflorescences descend 60 cm down. There are several subspecies of this wisteria:

White - Alba
Pink - Rosea
Violet full - Violaceo-plana
Red - Rubrum
Red-violet - Longissima
Blue - Lawrence

Shrub (Wisteria frutescens)

Low growing plant, not exceeding 12 meters in height. The leaves are glossy, consist of paired feathers (up to 8 pairs), stretch 30 cm in length. The buds are arranged in dense inflorescences, no more than 15 cm, bluish-lilac color. The aroma of the creeper is either imperceptible or absent.

Wisteria venusta (Wisteria venusta)

Another low-growing shrub that does not exceed 10 meters. The leaves are not large - 10 cm. The buds are white, the brushes are small. Flowering begins in May and until the end of October. The fruits fully ripen in November.

Large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys)

Characterized by long racemes - exceeding 1.5 meters. It tolerates frost well, but young shoots often freeze out. The flowers are white or purple, rarely red.

Having decided on the species, you should purchase the necessary planting material in a specialized store or collect it from a growing tree.

Preparation for planting

Wisteria propagates in different ways: cuttings, grafting, seeds. Each of the methods is interesting and time-consuming, but the most effective is growing by seeds.

It is more expedient to carry out sowing immediately after the end of harvesting. At this point, the seeds have 100% germination. Such an early planting is necessary due to the long germination of shoots. If planted in November or December, then in May the seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground.

Before the main rooting process, a number of measures should be taken:

planting material should be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate
temporarily in a damp cloth. Seedlings should swell and hatch
prepare the soil - the soil is loose, light, fertile. The composition of the substrate should contain leafy soil (3 parts), 1 part sand and turf. Some advise to apply peat, but its addition only oxidizes the fertile layer
Treat the rooting container against fungus and pests. Pour boiling water over, and then wash in a solution of potassium permanganate. The same process should be repeated for
prepared soil. All measures must be taken so that the germinating young sprout does not become infected with diseases remaining in the soil or on the walls of the flowerpot

The substrate can be purchased from a specialist shop. The soil will already have all the necessary organic fertilizers necessary for the healthy growth and development of a young tree.

Thus, having prepared the substrate, container, and most importantly, hatched viable seeds, you can safely start planting.

Planting and growing process

Drainage from broken bricks, fragments of ceramic pots or expanded clay is laid out on the bottom of the flowerpot. The thickness must not be less than 2-3 cm.

Then the prepared soil is poured. Do not add 1.5-2 cm to the top of the flowerpot. Hatched seeds are laid out at this level. They must be placed in a horizontal position - it will be easier for the emerging sprout to find its way to the surface. Then add the rest of the soil.

To accelerate germination, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions. Favorable temperature for germination - up to + 250C. It is recommended to cover with glass or a plastic bag. Put in a sunny place, after spraying the ground with a spray bottle, so that a strong pressure of water does not wash the seeds out of the soil.

Periodically it is necessary to open the greenhouse, ventilate and water. Make sure that the soil is not waterlogged. Otherwise, young shoots tend to rot and rot. But to dry the fertile layer is not worth it.

If condensation forms on glass or film, remove it immediately. If this is not done, then a fungus may appear, provoking the death of a young shoot.
The first sprouts begin to sprout in 3-4 weeks. The appearance of the first pair of leaves is a signal of the beginning of the hardening period. Now more often you need to open or even remove greenhouse conditions, ventilate more in the fresh air, expose to the soft morning rays of the sun. Midday time is detrimental to young shoots.

Flowerpots should either be completely removed in a dark place, or shade the window with gauze.

After the germination of the third leaf - the first real green plumage of the curly beauty, the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.

The seedling can now be prepared for transplanting into the open ground. In the garden, dig the necessary area, select holes 40 by 40 cm. It is imperative to remove the seedling from the flowerpot along with a clod of earth, without damaging or shaking the soil from the roots. Such transshipment will ensure the rapid rooting of the plant without disease. Sprinkle with a fertile layer (humus) on top.

Thus, the process of growing a young bush is quite simple. It is interesting to observe the first shoots and the development of a new life.

Helpful Care Tips

Wisteria is a slow growing shrub that needs proper care to grow well:

Ensure proper watering
Make timely pruning
Fertilize
Provide shelter for the winter months

The first fertilizer is applied at the moment of transshipment of the shrub to its permanent place of residence, if it was not added during transplantation of humus. The next dose of nutrients should come when the bud formation process begins in adults.

It is necessary to feed in May-June with nitrogen fertilizers, and in July-August with phosphorus-potassium additives. In the first 5 years, an abundance of organic nutrients gives a good start to the healthy growth of young vines. In subsequent years, it is recommended to reduce organic supplements to 1 time per month.

Do not forget about the periodic pruning of the bush. After winter, all old vines are shortened by 30 cm. In the middle of summer, this process is repeated again to thin out and remove excess stepchildren and side branches. In September, the last shortening of the vine is made for the flowering period. Young shoots are reduced by 4-5 buds. Proper pruning is a good guarantee of abundant flowering bush for next year.

Watering should be frequent but moderate. Do not make the soil a swamp. Mandatory watering for normal growth should be provided during the months of vine awakening and when laying flower buds. The lack of moisture adversely affects the formed buds - they fall off before they open. In autumn, watering is reduced and completely reduced.

Both the vines of the bush and its roots should be covered before winter frosts. The latter are covered with mowed grass (mulch) or collected tree bark. The covering layer should not be less than 15 cm in thickness. Such activities will help to more successfully endure a decrease in temperature for a weak root system.

Young vines must be removed from the trellis. Under them, put spruce branches on the ground, so that the branches do not touch the ground, and cover with foil.

Thus, proper care will not only allow you to grow a healthy full-fledged plant from seed, but also ensure the longevity of the shrub.

Pests and diseases

Most often, wisteria is not attacked by pests or diseases. But, sometimes, it can be affected by the following ailments:

Chlorosis. Appears due to the location of the bush in clay and limestone soil. The leaves turn white or lose their emerald color, turning yellow. You can get rid of the disease with the help of root dressing containing iron salts.
Aphid. When attacking a bush of harmful insects, deformation of the shoots is observed. There is an excessive abundance of flies around the affected area, flocking to the honeydew. It is secreted by parasites when eating the juice of the leaves and buds of the liana. Treatment is carried out with insecticides in 2 stages: the first time - at the time the problem is detected, the second time - after 10 days.
Clover mite. The leaves take on a bronze hue. Spraying with insecticide (Melathion) is carried out. It should be sprayed 2 times in 3 weeks.
Renal blast. The disease affects the flower buds of the vine and the formed buds. They are covered in black mold. They should be urgently cut from the trunk along with the affected vine to a healthy area. Removed vines are recommended to be burned to prevent a greater spread of the disease.

Thus, in order for wisteria to feel comfortable on the site, you need to be guided by some rules for planting from seeds, pruning, feeding and watering. The main thing is to constantly monitor the healthy appearance of the shrub. At the first sign of pests, it is advised to take extreme control measures.

Flowers wisteria (from the Greek Glicinia - "sweet"), or wisteria (lat. Wisteria)

, belong to the genus of tree-like climbing plants of the Legume family, growing in subtropical regions and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "Wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of Caspar Wistar, professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania. 9 species of the wisteria genus are known, but only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or profusely flowering, are grown as horticultural crops.

Wisteria tree - description

The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous vine with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. The leaves of wisteria are imparipinnate, pubescent when young, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping brushes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, at the end of March and can bloom throughout the summer. The wisteria tree is very much in demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana wrapping around the walls of a gazebo or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home, in a container way in the form of a tree, but still, homemade wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.

Growing wisteria from seeds

How to grow wisteria from seeds.

Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Wisteria seedlings.

Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out for a couple of hours a day to an unheated part of the house or kept under an ajar window, provided that there is no draft in the room.

Wisteria seeds can be sown directly into open ground in early spring, then seedlings grow adapted to the environment and subsequently delight with their endurance.

Planting wisteria

When to plant wisteria.

Wisteria is planted in the spring after the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is better not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so choose the most sunny and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.

How to plant wisteria.

Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously applied mineral fertilizers to the soil in the area for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for some time - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.

Care of wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria.

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil underneath is always slightly damp, but never wet. If the spring is without rain, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-Lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to cut dry branches, tie up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the right direction. Before the onset of winter, you need to high up the rosette, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the near-stem circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spanbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.

Wisteria bloom.

When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait. Chinese wisteria blooms from April, with all buds opening at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow green, but will not bloom.

Wisteria pruning.

Prune the wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form the plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but directs them to the formation of buds. Pruning wisteria in spring consists in removing young shoots sticking out so that they do not hide flower clusters from view during flowering with their foliage. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm. 20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you can deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush flowering of wisteria.

Propagation of wisteria.

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the germinated and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of reproduction. Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, an annual shoot is selected, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and placed with an incision on a pot with a clay-soddy substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.

In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I don’t know anyone who actually succeeded in this, but my layering took root.

Pests and diseases of wisteria.

Sometimes wisteria is occupied by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed by an insecticide, and mites by an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root dressing of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Types and varieties of wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

– densely leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. The leaves are pinnate, large, at first pubescent, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden form with white flowers (f. alba) and a form with double flowers (f. plena).

Wisteria profusely flowering or many-flowered (Wisteria floribunda),

it is also colloquially “Japanese”, since it comes from the Japanese islands - it differs from Chinese in smaller sizes (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant , as well as their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length. The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves.

In addition to these two most popular species, wisteria venusta (Wisteria venusta), shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) are also known in cultivation, on the basis of which Blue Moon wisteria was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota, capable of overwintering. in the garden even without shelter.

floristics.info

Contents:

Description of the appearance of wisteria
Wisteria varieties
Landing preparation
Planting and growing process
Care tips
Pests and diseases

Description of the appearance of wisteria

Liana leaves are large, densely spaced. Each leaf is assembled from 10-15 separate green feathers and reaches up to 30 cm in length.

Wisteria emits an interesting delicate smell, especially bright at night. The aroma is persistent and spreads over large areas.

Wisteria seeds vary in appearance. Some fruits are green with brown flecks, while others are brown with green veins. They are easy to grow on your own at home.

Thus, the creeper is interesting not only for its appearance and original flowers, but also for leaf formation and seeds.

Varieties of Wisteria

Before planting a future plant, it is recommended to decide on the species. There are a sufficient number of vines in nature. The most famous for gardeners are the following types:

Chinese
Blooming
Shrub
Beautiful
Large-armed

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

Wisteria floribunda (Wisteria floribunda) profusely flowering

White - Alba
Pink - Rosea
Violet full - Violaceo-plana
Red - Rubrum
Red-violet - Longissima
Blue - Lawrence

Shrub (Wisteria frutescens)

Wisteria venusta (Wisteria venusta)

Large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys)

Characterized by long racemes - exceeding 1.5 meters. It tolerates frost well, but young shoots often freeze out. The flowers are white or purple, rarely red.

Having decided on the species, you should purchase the necessary planting material in a specialized store or collect it from a growing tree.

Preparation for planting

Wisteria propagates in different ways: cuttings, grafting, seeds. Each of the methods is interesting and time-consuming, but the most effective is growing by seeds.

Before the main rooting process, a number of measures should be taken:

planting material should be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate
temporarily in a damp cloth. Seedlings should swell and hatch
prepare the soil - the soil is loose, light, fertile. The composition of the substrate should contain leafy soil (3 parts), 1 part sand and turf. Some advise to apply peat, but its addition only oxidizes the fertile layer
Treat the rooting container against fungus and pests. Pour boiling water over, and then wash in a solution of potassium permanganate. The same process should be repeated for
prepared soil. All measures must be taken so that the germinating young sprout does not become infected with diseases remaining in the soil or on the walls of the flowerpot

The substrate can be purchased from a specialist shop. The soil will already have all the necessary organic fertilizers necessary for the healthy growth and development of a young tree.

Thus, having prepared the substrate, container, and most importantly, hatched viable seeds, you can safely start planting.

Planting and growing process

Drainage from broken bricks, fragments of ceramic pots or expanded clay is laid out on the bottom of the flowerpot. The thickness must not be less than 2-3 cm.

Flowerpots should either be completely removed in a dark place, or shade the window with gauze.

After the germination of the third leaf - the first real green plumage of the curly beauty, the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.

Thus, the process of growing a young bush is quite simple. It is interesting to observe the first shoots and the development of a new life.

Helpful Care Tips

Wisteria is a slow growing shrub that needs proper care to grow well:

Ensure proper watering
Make timely pruning
Fertilize
Provide shelter for the winter months

Young vines must be removed from the trellis. Under them, put spruce branches on the ground, so that the branches do not touch the ground, and cover with foil.

Thus, proper care will not only allow you to grow a healthy full-fledged plant from seed, but also ensure the longevity of the shrub.

Pests and diseases

Most often, wisteria is not attacked by pests or diseases. But, sometimes, it can be affected by the following ailments:

Chlorosis. Appears due to the location of the bush in clay and limestone soil. The leaves turn white or lose their emerald color, turning yellow. You can get rid of the disease with the help of root dressing containing iron salts.
Aphid. When attacking a bush of harmful insects, deformation of the shoots is observed. There is an excessive abundance of flies around the affected area, flocking to the honeydew. It is secreted by parasites when eating the juice of the leaves and buds of the liana. Treatment is carried out with insecticides in 2 stages: the first time - at the time the problem is detected, the second time - after 10 days.
Clover mite. The leaves take on a bronze hue. Spraying with insecticide (Melathion) is carried out. It should be sprayed 2 times in 3 weeks.
Renal blast. The disease affects the flower buds of the vine and the formed buds. They are covered in black mold. They should be urgently cut from the trunk along with the affected vine to a healthy area. Removed vines are recommended to be burned to prevent a greater spread of the disease.

Date of publication: Growing

Wisteria home - photo, care, reproduction, flowering

1. Seven secrets of success:

the onset of abundant flowering should be given a cool dormant period at a temperature of 6 - 8 ° C.

2. Lighting : shading from the scorching direct rays of the sun in summer days and maximum light in autumn and winter. In spring and summer, wisteria can bathe in the sun in the morning and evening, for 3 to 4 hours daily.

3. Watering and Humidity : Let the top layer of soil dry a few inches between waterings in spring and summer. In winter, the frequency of watering is reduced in accordance with the temperature in the room - the substrate is simply protected from complete drying when kept cool. Air humidity is increased only on hot and warm spring and summer days.

Pruning : wisteria needs both sanitary and timely shaping pruning, with which you can form a tree of different shapes.

5. Soil : Nutrient-rich loose soil with a slightly alkaline pH that allows the root system to breathe.

6. Top dressing : mineral or organic fertilizer every 2 weeks during growth. In mid-autumn, top dressing is stopped and resumed only in spring, with the appearance of the first signs of new growth.

7. Reproduction : Stem cuttings, spring transplant division, air layering, rhizome cuttings, grafting or seed sowing.

Botanical name: Wisteria.

Wisteria flower - family . Legumes.

Where wisteria grows . The plant is native to China.

Description. Wisteria is a perennial deciduous vine. The stems of curl clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on the species, and can rise up to 20 m above the ground. The diameter of the base of the trunk can reach 40 cm. One of the attractive features of the plant is the white or light gray bark of the shoots.

Leaves alternate, 15 to 35 cm long, pinnate, composed of 9 to 19 ovate leaflets with wavy edges 4 to 8 cm long. 10 to 80 cm long, purple, pink, blue or white, bloom in spring or mid to late summer. The flowers of some species are very fragrant, open sequentially from the base of the brush to the tip - from top to bottom, flowering occurs on the shoots of the previous year.

Blooming wisteria produces a sweet, intense fragrance .

Seeds are formed in velvety pubescent brown pods 10 - 15 cm long, poisonous. Wisteria fruits are pods typical of the Bean family.

Properly cared for, this vigorous, fast growing vine blooms relentlessly and profusely, about three times a year from spring to autumn.

Height . Up to 20 m . in the natural environment, in culture, the height of the plant is regulated by pruning, it grows quickly and within one year is able to grow two-meter shoots.

2. Wisteria - care and cultivation

2.1. Planting and care in the open field

How to plant wisteria? When choosing a suitable site for growing, it must be remembered that for good growth and abundant flowering, the plant must develop in a very nutritious soil and receive a sufficient amount of sunlight daily.

For planting, choose a site that will be protected from strong gusts of wind and where, without damaging other plants, you can put an impressive vertical trellis or organize another support for wisteria.

An area of land where groundwater runs close to the surface is not suitable for planting.

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When growing outdoors, it is necessary to constantly control the size of plants, because adult bushes can easily break the support and simply crush neighboring cultivated plantings.

Wisteria will look great as a large, green wall at the garden gazebo, it will shade and decorate structures such as terraces or porches.

It is not recommended to plant this creeper in the immediate vicinity of the house, as it can destroy the walls , using them as a support for growth, clinging to the slightest crack in the wall.

Plant this heat-loving vine on the south side of buildings - in this case, the plant will receive additional heat at night from the walls heated by the sun during the day.

Wooden structures can be used as tapestries in the first stages, and then it is worth moving on to more reliable, iron-welded supports.

For planting, the site is dug up and weeds are removed.

Prepare planting holes with a depth and width of at least 50 - 60 cm , on the bottom of which a drainage layer is laid in the form of expanded clay or river pebbles. You can also use plain river sand as drainage.

Growing soil is additionally enriched with organic matter in the form of well-rotted horse or cow manure, humus can also be mixed into the soil. River sand is mixed with too heavy, clayey soil to improve drainage.

The most suitable time for planting is spring or autumn. Plants that are 3-4 years old are suitable for planting in open ground.

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Bushes are planted outside when the threat of spring night frosts has passed or in the autumn months in such a way that they have time to take root in a new place before the onset of winter.

If several plants are planted, a distance of 3 - 5 meters .

When planting, observe the same depth at which the plant was in the previous container - place the seedling so that its root collar is above the soil surface.

The flower is placed in the center of the planting hole and sprinkled with the substrate.

After planting, the soil around the bush is well tamped to remove air pockets and thoroughly watered. If the earth after watering strongly subsided, add the required amount of soil.

The trunk circle can be mulched with straw, leaf litter or sawdust to retard the development of weeds and prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly from the soil surface. The layer of mulch can reach a thickness of 5 - 6 cm.

In autumn, plants are spudded together with mulch, thereby adding nutrients to wisteria.

Further plant care will consist of timely watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

Watering is carried out in such a way that between them the soil can dry to a depth of 3 - 5 cm.

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The first wintering will be a real test for young bushes. If the plant is grown on an iron trellis, then the shoots from such a support must be removed - on harsh winter days they simply freeze to their surface.

In the middle lane, the most suitable, frost-resistant variety is large-leaved wisteria - it withstands frosts of and down to -30 degrees Celsius.

In second place are varieties such as profusely flowering wisteria, many-flowered and Chinese - these beauties can be found in open ground in more southern latitudes, for example, in the Krasnodar Territory.

Unfortunately, it is not easy to achieve decent flowering in the middle lane - even branches slightly damaged by frost will not bloom.

Before the onset of winter, the trunk circle is additionally spudded and sprinkled with another layer of mulch.

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Before the onset of frost, absolutely all young plants will need shelter - their shoots are bent to the surface of the soil and sprinkled with leaf litter or insulated with spruce branches.

Preliminary, on the ground, to which the branches are bent, a wooden flooring is placed or a good layer of foam is laid out.

As soon as snow falls, it is additionally thrown on top of such a shelter.

Mature plants of large-leaved wisteria become the owners of strong, lignified stems, which can no longer be bent to the ground, the vine can already be left on the trellis even in the winter months.

Remove the shelter as soon as the snow in the area has melted.

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0239 from spring to autumn
, the flowering period is very long.

Only mature plants bloom 6 to 20 years old and only with the most careful care.

In many varieties, flowering begins even before the formation of leaves.

The most abundant will be the formation of racemes in mature plants at the age of 13 - 15 years old .

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2.3. Growing conditions - soil

Potted wisteria is a very hardy plant. It can grow in fairly poor soils, but prefers fertile, moist, well-drained soils with a slightly alkaline pH of .

It is best to use broken bricks as drainage when planting - due to its weight, it will give the pot stability.

The growing medium should easily pass not only moisture, but also air to the root system.

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2.4. Propagation, cuttings

Wisteria at home is propagated by division during transplantation , by cuttings or by seeds .

However, plants grown from seed will take a long time to flower. For this reason, flower growers prefer plants obtained from cuttings or by grafting - they bloom at the age of 4 - 5 years.

Cuttings do not always take root and require careful care for successful rooting.

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Stem cuttings 15 - 20 cm long . cut from one-year-old shoots during forming pruning so that below the leaf node there is a piece of the stem 1–2 cm long, and the lower cut is oblique.

Remove the lower leaves from the cuttings and dust their bases with growth hormones.
For rooting, make up the soil from peat, leaf and sod land.
Coarse-grained river sand is added to the mixture to improve drainage - the substrate should be loose and sufficiently nutritious.
Moisten the soil with a fine mist sprayer.
Cuttings are immersed in the ground to a depth of 4 - 5 cm and covered from above with a transparent plastic bag or glass.
Seedlings are placed in a warm and protected from direct sun place.
Every day, the shelter is removed, the landings are ventilated and the condensate accumulated on the glass or film is removed.

The appearance of young leaves can be seen within 4 - 8 weeks , and this already indicates that the first roots appeared in the substrate.

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Division of adults is carried out in the spring, when transplanting, with the appearance of the first signs of new growth, but before the formation of buds.

The bush is dug out of the ground and divided into several parts with a sharp knife. The wound surface formed during division is sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ash.

As a result of such division, each part should receive its own well-developed root system above ground.

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It is also possible to propagate by cuttings.

For propagation by air layering, place another small pot next to the container containing the mother plant.
Fill the pot with loose and nutritious substrate.
Take a one-year-old lateral shoot of the mother bush, make a small incision in it and tilt it to the surface of the soil in a pot.
From above, the shoot is pinned to the soil with a metal bracket and covered with a small layer of soil. The top of such layering should be above the soil surface.
Keep the soil around the cutting evenly moist throughout the rooting period.

The successful completion of the process can be judged by the appearance of the first signs of growth - new young leaves and shoots that break through the leaf nodes.

Such cuttings are separated from the mother plant 2 - 3 months later after the emergence of new growth.

If you have patience, you can grow wisteria from seeds . For such reproduction, you can use the seeds of your own collection.

Harvest the pods only when they are ripe but not dry. The pods are dried in a warm room - the seeds, completely ready for planting, can independently shoot out of dry, coiled pods.

Germination of fresh seeds is good and under mature plants they often form self-seeding.

Seeds are pre-soaked for several days in gauze moistened with water at room temperature.
For sowing take a plastic container with a lid and drainage holes at the bottom.
Drainage 1 - 2 cm high is placed as the first layer.
Fill container with nutrient and loose potting mix.
Seeds are sown to a depth of about 1 cm.

At home sowing can be carried out in late winter - in February, and in open ground planting is carried out in mid-April .

Planting can be carried out immediately in separate pots - in the latter case, it will be possible to do without the first dive.

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Crops are covered with glass or transparent plastic on top to maintain a high level of humidity.

Germination occurs within 20 days or a month at a temperature of 22 - 25 ° C . Throughout this period, the soil is kept evenly moist, carefully spraying it from the sprayer.

Air the seedlings daily by removing the glass and removing condensation from it. With the advent of the first sprouts, the shelter can be removed.

Seedlings should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

With the appearance of the first true leaves, plants dive into separate, small pots.

The first top dressing after diving is carried out after 10 - 14 days, using a very weak solution of flower fertilizer for this.

Plants grown from seeds may not have all the positive qualities of the parent plants.

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Another method of propagation is cutting off rhizomes .

To do this, young bushes are dug out of the ground and too long roots are cut off, located near the surface of the substrate, at the root collar, by a third of the length, and then the plants are planted again.

The following year, similar manipulations are performed again in early spring.

In autumn, the flowers are again dug up; as a result of such actions, long young roots appear in their root system, capable of producing an adnexal bud.

Pieces of such roots at least 5 - 7 mm thick . and lengths from 1 to 15 cm . separated from the mother plant and planted in separate containers in the fall.

During the first year, such specimens are kept in warm conditions in the house, and in the second year of life they can be taken out into the street.

Unfortunately, with this method of propagation, the root system of the mother plant suffers.

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Grafted seedlings purchased in flower shops or special farms differ in the earliest and most abundant flowering.

As rootstock is often used in hardy varieties, these plants are also more resistant to harsh outdoor conditions.

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2.5. Housekeeping, pruning

Growing a plant requires certain agricultural practices.

With an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, wisteria refuses to bloom. It fixes nitrogen in the root nodules, so mature plants need potassium and phosphorus, but not nitrogen.

Wisteria flowers develop in buds at the base of the previous year's growth, so prune without regret side shoots after flowering to maintain a nice and compact shape.

Young plants need proper crown formation .

The flowers of the first year of life leave the main shoot with 2 lateral ones.

In the second year after planting, the main trunk is cut at a height of about 80 - 90 cm and 2 more side shoots are left, which, after growing back, are cut to about 1/3 of the length.

In the third year of cultivation, we fix the main trunk to the trellis, and tie last year's lateral shoots at an angle of 90 degrees and shorten the branches of the second order located on them to 20 cm in length.

In this way we get a strong tree with side branches extending horizontally in tiers.

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If it is necessary to control the size of the mature plant, the side shoots can be shortened to 20 - 40 cm . length in mid-summer.

At the end of winter, formative pruning is done, in which last year's shoots are greatly shortened and only a few buds remain from them.

at sanitary pruning also remove old and damaged stems. It is also necessary to cut off flowering brushes - so the plant does not have to use its strength to form seed pods, which will only spoil the appearance of this tree.

Proper crown formation will add splendor to this flowering shrub, wisteria tolerates pruning easily.

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With pruning, you can grow both a large flowering liana and form a small flowering tree in style bonsai .

With this method of cultivation, not only the ground part is cut off, but also the root system is cut during transplantation. Each time with such pruning, too long roots are removed, leaving about 2/3 of their length.

Pruning is always carried out only with a sharply sharpened and sterile tool - a knife or secateurs.

Bonsai trees are grown in small and wide bowls.

Take wisteria out into the fresh air during warmer months, sheltered from wind, direct sun and rain. Don't forget to take the plants indoors if nighttime temperatures drop below zero.

The tall shoots of this ornamental plant may need support to grow.

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2.6. How to transplant wisteria

Transplantation is carried out annually , in the spring , as it grows, into larger pots.

For planting, choose a shallow and wide container - wisteria has a small root system, and in addition, the plant is able to turn over a tall and light pot.

Before planting, a good drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the pot in the form of broken bricks and expanded clay, which should be purchased in advance at a flower shop.

Wisteria does not like damage to the root system - try to transfer plants without destroying the earthy coma - in this case, the roots will receive minimal damage. When transshipping, the plants, together with the root ball, are simply installed in the center of the new container and sprinkled around the perimeter with fresh substrate.

After planting, the soil around the bush is compacted to remove air pockets and the plants are watered.

For large tub specimens, which will be difficult to transplant due to their size, replace the top layer of soil 5 - 7 cm thick with fresh soil annually, in the spring.

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during this period, the temperature in the room should be within 6 - 8 ° C. Cool wintering is necessary for the plant to get stronger and gain strength for subsequent flowering in the new season.

When grown outdoors, the plant tolerates short frosts.

Wisteria does not like abrupt changes in temperature, and therefore it is gradually accustomed to any changes.

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Plants damaged by viruses cannot be treated and must be destroyed.

Powdery mildew and other fungal diseases appear when kept in a cool and damp room without sufficient air movement.

Leaf blades turn yellow and veins remain green if plant develops chlorosis - add iron chelate to irrigation water.

Wisteria does not bloom if it does not have a dormant period in cool weather, it also does not bloom when the specimens are too young and if there is a lack of sunlight.

Bushes that regularly receive less light develop weak and sickly in appearance.

Plants rot when moisture stagnates at the roots - such specimens can be saved if transplanted with a complete replacement of the soil with fresh one. With such a transplant, the root system is carefully shaken off the old soil and inspected. Damaged and rotten roots are cut with secateurs. It is impossible to plant flowers treated in this way in the old substrate, as pathogens may remain in it.

In a large city where the air is heavily polluted, wisterias will develop poorly and bloom poorly, and will also look unhealthy.

Wisteria does not grow during the winter months and this is absolutely normal - the plants are at rest.

In the absence of a dormant period, plants will not only not bloom, but may also die.

When kept outdoors, the following harmful insects may appear 0240, like leafworms, at home and on the street, plants can be attacked by aphids and mealybugs, and nematodes settle in the ground.

Insect pests

Insect name Signs of infection Control measures

Mealybug The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development Folk remedies : spraying with a soap-alcohol solution. Infusion of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula performed well. Chemicals : green soap solution, Aktellik, Fitoverm.

Nematodes Leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown, black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason. Traditional methods : destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70 ° C, hot bath - immersion of the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55 ° C for 20 minutes. Chemical preparations : Anthelmintics.

Aphid Sticky droplets appear on leaf blades, leaf blades curl and deform, tender buds and young leaves wither. On the tops of the shoots, buds or the underside of the leaf plates, insect colonies can be seen. The flowers of an aphid-infested plant may become misshapen. Folk methods : nettle infusion, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, tobacco and dandelion infusion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, wood ash dusting. Chemical preparations : Sulfur powders, treatment with green potash soap of green mass without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm.

Leaf roller Rolled up young leaves with white thin threads inside. Folk methods : destruction of affected leaves, trapping belts. Chemical preparations : insecticides - Alatar, Fufanon, Karbofos, Aktara, Aktellik and others.

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An excess amount of nitrogen will cause plants to grow profusely green mass at the expense of flowering.

fertilizer for flowering plants with a high content of potassium and phosphorus is chosen for top dressing.

Wisteria responds positively to both mineral and organic supplements. As organics , well-rotted horse or cow manure, humus and humus can be added to the soil, as well as watering wisteria with a weak solution of chicken manure.

The best effect can be achieved by alternating these fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil only after abundant watering, since too concentrated solution on the root system in dry soil can cause burns.

In the autumn months, the frequency of fertilizing and the nutrient content in them are gradually reduced and the plant is put into a dormant period.

In winter, wisteria is not fed at all , but fertilization is resumed only in spring, when the first signs of new growth appear.

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2.10.Lighting
Bright lighting promotes abundant and long flowering.

Each plant should receive 3 - 4 hours of direct sunlight daily, in the morning and evening hours. In spring and summer, on a hot afternoon, plants need to be shaded.

In autumn and winter, you can put a tub or pot with a plant in the most lit place.

Every week the pot should turn around its own axis by a quarter of a turn so that the bushes do not tilt towards the light source and develop dense and symmetrical.

The window sills of windows facing east and west are considered the most suitable for growing wisteria. When containing on the south side of plants are slightly deepened into the room.

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2.11. Watering

Indoor wisteria needs a lot of water when it is actively growing and flowering. Keep soil evenly moist in spring and summer by watering well-settled water at room temperature.

During the winter period of dormancy, watering is reduced in accordance with the temperature in the room - they contain flowers in an almost dry substrate, protecting it only from complete drying.

Young wisterias will need regular watering, while mature plants can survive a short drought.

Be sure to drain excess water from the drip pan after watering.

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2.12. Spraying

Periodically spray the trees or place indoor humidifier near the plant. When spraying, make sure that moisture droplets do not fall on flowers and buds - this can drastically reduce their attractiveness.

Spray only in the morning, using softened bottled or filtered water at room temperature. You can also use well-settled tap water for spraying.

The moisture must have time to evaporate from the leaves and shoots before dark.

You can also use the Wet Pebble Tray to increase the humidity, but make sure that the bottom of the pot does not come into direct contact with the water.

Well helps to increase the humidity of the placement of several plants in a limited space.

Wisteria will appreciate staying in constantly ventilated rooms with good air circulation.

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2.13. Purpose

Of course, the main purpose of the plant is spectacular flowering trees that create a bright accent in landscape design. Unfortunately, it is possible to achieve a lush and long flowering of this capricious beauty mainly in the southern latitudes and it can take more than a dozen years.

Wisteria can be grown as a stunning blooming bonsai or as a beautiful stem tree .

Stunning clusters with numerous flowers make the plant look like a full blooming waterfall.

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2.14.Note

All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested and may cause dizziness, speech problems, nausea and vomiting, and abdominal pain. The most poisonous are the seeds of the flower.

Interestingly, the stems of Chinese wisteria wind counterclockwise, while the stems of Japanese wisteria wind in the direction of its movement.

Wisteria is a well-known long-liver , in the natural environment there are plants whose age is estimated at 250 years.

Dye is obtained from the flowers of the shrub , which is used for dyeing fabrics.

Plant leaves contain very useful substances that can inhibit the growth of harmful microorganisms, that is, they can be used as antibiotics.

House plants are able to cleanse the atmosphere of living quarters from viruses.

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Hydroponics .

3. Varieties:

3.1. Blue Moon Wisteria - Wisteria Blue moon

A plant with high resistance to frost - withstands frosts down to -40 ° C, and therefore is suitable for cultivation in open ground. This variety develops very quickly and blooms tirelessly with good care. The flowers are large, very fragrant, pale purple, collected in large, branched inflorescences - brushes, each up to 25 cm long. Flowering occurs up to 3 times a year, a flowering plant quickly fills the room with a unique sweetish aroma. The first flowering often occurs before the leaves appear, and it will also be the most abundant. The leaves are dark green, complex, large - up to 30 cm long.
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Insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
Mealybug	The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development	Folk remedies : spraying with a soap-alcohol solution. Infusion of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula performed well. Chemicals : green soap solution, Aktellik, Fitoverm.
Nematodes	Leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown, black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason.	Traditional methods : destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70 ° C, hot bath - immersion of the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55 ° C for 20 minutes. Chemical preparations : Anthelmintics.
Aphid	Sticky droplets appear on leaf blades, leaf blades curl and deform, tender buds and young leaves wither. On the tops of the shoots, buds or the underside of the leaf plates, insect colonies can be seen. The flowers of an aphid-infested plant may become misshapen.	Folk methods : nettle infusion, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, tobacco and dandelion infusion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, wood ash dusting. Chemical preparations : Sulfur powders, treatment with green potash soap of green mass without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm.
Leaf roller	Rolled up young leaves with white thin threads inside.	Folk methods : destruction of affected leaves, trapping belts. Chemical preparations : insecticides - Alatar, Fufanon, Karbofos, Aktara, Aktellik and others.