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What veg to plant now


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Knowing when to plant vegetables is essential if you’re looking to grow your own edibles. Growing your own vegetables from seed is a great way to give a supply of fresh organic produce as part of a healthy diet, but it is also highly rewarding and good for wellbeing. 

While you can buy seedlings and plug plants from garden centres and online suppliers, planting vegetables from seed is the most economical way of growing produce, plus it also offers the opportunity to try all sorts of different vegetable varieties. However, with a dazzling array to choose from, it can be tricky to know where to begin.

Whether you’re in the process of creating a kitchen garden or simply want to grow a few veggies in containers on your patio or balcony space, this handy vegetable calendar will help get your kitchen garden ideas get off to the best start.

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

When to plant vegetables – points to consider

Planning when to plant vegetables can be confusing as there are a huge array of vegetable garden ideas, plus there are vegetables that can be planted in every month of the year, right through from January to December.  

A vegetable calendar is a great place to start when planning a kitchen garden as it will help you know when to buy seeds so that you don’t miss out on growing your favorite vegetables, plus will it help you organize crop rotations on your patch. It is also a handy source of inspiration for what to plant.

Exactly when to plant vegetables will depend on your climate and weather conditions, so while a vegetable calendar is a handy guide planning tool, it is also important to keep a tab on temperates in your region. 

Throughout the gardening year it's a good idea to note down key information on weather conditions to help build your own personal vegetable planting calendar. The last frost date is particularly useful for gauging when to start sowing and planting out tender crops. 

The temperature of the soil is a key factor in the germination of seeds, and different seeds germinate at different temperatures, so consider buying a soil thermometer to check the temperature is right for sowing.

Different varieties of the same type of vegetable can have different sowing and planting times, so always refer to the instructions on the seed packet. 

(Image credit: Future/Annaick Guitteny)

January

With the ground still very cold, January is a quiet time for sowing and planting vegetables, so this is the perfect opportunity to plan for the year ahead. Take time to look through seed catalogues and make a plan of your plot.

However, there are some things that can be planted under cover to get your growing season off to a head start.

Onions – if growing from seed then onions can be planted under cover in a greenhouse in January and February. While growing onions from sets (immature onion bulbs) is often the easiest method, knowing how to grow onions from seed may be useful as it is a more economical way of growing them if you are looking for a larger crop.

Potatoes - For those keen on learning how to grow potatoes then January is the time when you can begin the process by chitting your Early potato varieties. Chitting encourages potatoes to sprout prior to planting and is usually done 6 weeks before seed potatoes are planted into beds. 

Lay seed potatoes in a tray – egg boxes are often used – with their eyes point up and leave in a light, cool, frost-free place. When the shoots are 1/2-1 inch tall (1-2cm) then the potatoes are ready to plant.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

February

The weather is unpredictable in February but there are some vegetable varieties that can be sown under cover in the greenhouse or on a warm windowsill to kick start the growing season including hardy vegetables.

'In February, you can start sowing choices such as broad beans, peas, carrots, onions, the first potatoes and salad crops under cloches,' explains gardening expert Leigh Clapp. 

Edibles that need warmth and are suited to growing in a greenhouse can also be planted under cover in February including tomatoes, peppers, cucumber and eggplant.

With spring around the corner, February is a good time to prepare your beds for the growing season. You can also cover them with a plastic tarpaulin or cardboard to prevent the soil getting waterlogged.

(Image credit: Crocus)

What to plant indoors:

Fava beans – grow fava beans, also known as broad beans, by sowing them indoors into individual pots or modular trays ready for planting out 4-6 weeks later. Alternatively sow directly from March to May or in October to November for an early spring crop. You can also sow directly in February under cloches.

Tomatoes – sow tomatoes in a propagator in late February – this is the best time to sow if you are thinking of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. Sow in seed trays or in individual pots if you want just a few plants.

Peppers – sow under cover from February until March. Sow seeds into pots or seed trays and place in a heated propagator 65–70°F (18–21°C) or on a sunny window sill covered with a plastic bag.

Eggplant – growing eggplant – or aubergines – in a greenhouse sow seeds in individual pots in February and plant out in April. Alternatively sow from January for cultivation in a heated greenhouse. If transplanting outside, sow seeds undercover in March and plant out once the risk of frost has past in later May.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

What to sow outdoors:

Radish – sow seeds direct where they are to grow in short drills 12 inches (30cm) apart from February until August. Sow little and successively for a continual supply. If sowing in February consider using a cloche. 

(Image credit: Getty Images)

March

In milder regions and areas with light, sandy soil, March is the time when you can begin to sow some vegetable seeds outside. Sandy beds will benefit from the addition of organic matter to help the soil retain moisture. In cooler regions, and areas with heavy clay soil, outdoor sowing may be a little later, explains gardening expert Leigh Clapp.

'Clay soil needs breaking up and takes longer to warm up so suits later crops, whereas light soils are good for early vegetables but will need large quantities of manure and compost to avoid water draining away too rapidly. The ideal is loose, crumbly loam, which absorbs and holds water and nutrients, is well aerated and drains freely.'

If you live in a cooler region you may want to wait until April to begin direct sowing some of the vegetables on this list, however there are vegetable varieties that can be started off in the greenhouse in March, too, including: sweetcorn, spinach, parsnips, leek, kale, cauliflower, beetroot.

You can also continue to sow tomato, eggplant and peppers under cover.

(Image credit: coldsnowstorm / Getty Images)

What to sow indoors:

Pumpkin – sow under cover from March until May or sow direct from late May once frosts have passed.

Cucumber – if you are planning to cultivate cucumbers a greenhouse sow seeds now ½–¾in (1–2cm) deep, in small pots. Be sure to familiarise yourself with how to grow cucumbers before you start out.

Tomatoes – sow seeds under cover in March if you are planning to transplant them outside.

(Image credit: merlinpf / Getty Images)

What to sow outdoors:

Asparagus – plant asparagus crowns in late March and April.

Beetroot – direct sow in rows 12 inches (30cm) apart from March to July for harvesting in as little as 7 weeks. Thin out seedling to 4 inches (10cm) apart at about 1 inch (2.5cm) tall. Sow every few weeks for continual supply.

Broad beans – sow seeds direct outside into rich fertile soil enriched with manure or organic matter. Sow in seeds at 9 inch (23cm) intervals in double rows set 9 inches (23cm) apart, with 24 inches (60cm) between each double row. Be sure to familiarise yourself with how to grow fava beans beforehand.

Leeks – sow leeks in March and April in a prepared seed bed for transplanting to their final position in early summer. Alternatively they can be sown under cover from January to March in modules and placed in a propagator ready for planting out later. Harvest from October to March.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Onions – plant onion sets from mid March to mid April. Alternatively plant from October and November.

Parsnips – direct sow from March to May in a prepared bed in a sunny position. The soil should be friable and stone-free. 

Peas – sow peas direct from March until July for picking from July to October. To grow them outdoors sow in trenches 2 inches (5cm) at around 3 inches (7.5cm) apart. 

There are three types of pea: Early, Second early and maincrop peas, and each is best planted at different times so be sure to research how to grow peas before starting out.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Potatoes – plant chitted First Early potatoes in mid-late March ready for harvesting in 11-13 weeks. When to plant potatoes will depend on what variety they are so be sure to do your research first.

Spinach – sow summer spinach direct from March to June. Sow every three weeks for picking from May to October. Sow thinly in drills 1inch (2.5cm) deep set 12 inches (30cm) apart. 

Spring Onion – sow seeds direct from March until August. Sow thinly in drills every three weeks for a continual supply. Spring onions can be harvested in just 8 weeks from sowing.

(Image credit: Future)

April

April is a busy month in the vegetable garden as it is when the outdoor sowing season gets into full swing. 

Be sure to label your sowings with the vegetable variety and date as you go. If sowing direct avoid treading on freshly dug soil, instead use boards to stand on. 

What to plant indoors:

Zucchini – you can grow zucchini by sowing zucchini seeds in 3 inch (7.5cm) pots and place in a propagator or on a sunny windowsill.

Sweetcorn – for best results sow sweetcorn seeds under glass in mid April and early May and plant out in late May to early June.  

To avoid root disturbance sow in 3 inch pots, sow two seeds about one inch deep. Alternatively sow outdoors in mid May – sow in blocks with 2 seeds every 18 inches and 1 inch deep. 

(Image credit: Getty Images)

What to plant outdoors:

Broccoli – to grow broccoli, sow direct outdoors from May to April. Sow where they are to grow or alternatively sow in a seedbed or under cover, and transplant them to their final position 5-7 weeks after sowing. 

Carrots – If you're wondering how to grow carrots, April is the month to start sowing the seeds outdoors – sow thinly ½in (1cm) deep in rows 6–12in (15–30cm) apart. Ensure the soil is well dug over and raked to a fine tilth – it needs to be free from stones as this can result in forked carrots.

‘For sweet, small carrots, sow every few weeks from early spring to late summer for a successional harvest from June to November,’ says gardening expert Leigh Clapp.  

Alternatively, for an early crop, sow varieties such as 'Nantes' under cloches or in the greenhouse in February and March.

Cabbage – sow winter cabbage April and May. Transplant seedlings to their final position in late June to July and when the plants have 5-6 true leaves.

(Image credit: Miracle Gro)

Cauliflower – sow outdoors in April for transplanting in June. There are three types of cauliflower – spring, summer and autumn and sowing times will vary on what type you choose to grow.

Chard – chard, also known as beet leaf, is a tasty and versatile hardy biennial that can be sown direct from March to September however sowings in April and July are a good way to ensure a continual crop throughout the year. 

'For great-value yielders you can’t beat Swiss chard and perpetual spinach that will crop for a whole year and throughout winter,' says gardening expert Leigh Clapp.

Potatoes – plant Second Early potatoes in early to mid April and maincrop potatoes  in mid to late April.

Salads and lettuce – direct sow rocket, salads and summer lettuce. Or sow from March under cloches.

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

May

May continues to be a busy month for sowing vegetable seeds. From mid-May the risk of frost in the UK has usually passed, meaning you can begin to direct sow half-hardy annuals and begin to harden off tender vegetables grown under cover ready for planting outside including courgettes, pumpkin and French beans. 

Hardening off is where tender plants are gradually brought outside to acclimatise them to cooler temperatures. If raised in a heated greenhouse, move plants to an unheated greenhouse for around two weeks before then moving them to a cold frame. 

If you do not have a greenhouse or cold frame then move the plants outside into the sun for a couple of hours a during the day and slowly increase the time period. 

You can continue to direct sow broccoli, cabbage, carrot, parsnip, peas and spinach.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

What to plant outdoors:

French beans – direct sow French beans from May when the risk of frost has passed, or sow under cover from March for transplanting later. Make successive sowing until the end of June for picking until early October.

You'll know when to pick green beans and French beans by the appearance of the crop. The beans should be pencil thin, around 4 inches long, and without any visible bumps along the pod. 

Zucchini – direct sow zucchini outside in late May to June. Plant out courgettes grown under cover from late May but be sure to harden them off beforehand.

Pumpkin – to grow pumpkins, direct sow pumpkin seeds where they are to grow in late May or early June. Pumpkins grow best in warm weather so cover with cloches to give them the best start.

(Image credit: PhotoAlto/Jerome Gorin / Getty Images)

June

In June you can continue to make successive sowings off radish, salad and carrots, as well as direct sow zucchini, beetroot, peas, French beans and parsnips.

What to plant outdoors:

Fennel – Sow seeds direct in late June in fertile, moist soil. Thin to one plant every 10in (25cm) in rows 18in (45cm) apart, and water during dry spells.

Brassicas – direct sow brassicas such as kale cabbage, broccoli and Brussel sprouts for harvesting in winter

(Image credit: Getty Images)

July

July is the last chance to sow French beans and you can also plant out winter winer leeks into their final position. Fast-growing vegetables can still be sown including radish, spring onions and beetroot.

There is plenty of harvesting to be done in July which will keep you busy including, carrots, radish, beetroot, chard, peas, salad leaves, broad beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and more!

(Image credit: Getty Images)

What to sow outside:

Chard – Sowing a second crop of chard in July will give you a fresh supply through autumn. Sowing made in July can also be overwintered for picking the following spring.

Spring cabbage – sow spring cabbage in July and August in seed beds and transplant to their final position in September and October ready for picking the following spring.

Pak choi  – great in soups and salads and easy to grow from seed, pak choi can be harvested in as early as 30 days in baby leaf form or in 45-70 days as semi-mature to full size heads. 

They can be grown outside over winter, providing you with fresh greens all the way through to spring but will benefit from some protection. Sow seeds thinly at a depth of 1/2 an inch (1cm) in rows 15 inches (38cm) apart. The seedlings will need thinning to different distances depending on how mature you want to grow your pak choi.

(Image credit: coldsnowstorm / Getty Images)

August 

In August your vegetable plot will be at its peak with a glut of produce ready for harvest, however there are some things you can plant including winter crops such as spinach, kohl rabi, and spring cabbage as well as winter salad leaves.

(Image credit: Dougal Waters / Getty Images)

What so plant outside:

Spinach – late august is a good time to sow a second crop of spinach. 

Spinach is a cool season crop which can easily go to seeds in the heat, so seeds are best grown in early spring as well as in late summer and early fall. 

It can also be over wintered with protection. For later sowings look for 'long-day' varieties. Check out how to grow spinach for more tips.

Kohl rabi – If sown in August this brassica can be harvested up until November. Sow direct in drills 12 inches (30cm) apart and at a depth of ½in (1cm) deep. Thin out seedlings at 1in 2.5cm tall to a final spacing of 6in 15cm (15cm) apart and keep well watered in hot weather. Pick when between the size of a golf and tennis ball.

(Image credit: The Garden Smallholder)

September

Winter salads – there are many hardy salads that will grow over winter including Lamb’s lettuce, mustard greens, 'Winter Gem' lettuce, arugula and oriental leaves such as mibuna and mizuna.  

Early fall is the perfect time to sow these as the soil is still warm. Seeds can be sown in seed trays or direct into finely raked soil.

You can also continue to make sowings of chard.

(Image credit: Jonathan Buckley for Sarah Raven)

October

What to plant outside:

Garlic – October is when you can start growing garlic. Garlic is often grown from sets rather than seed and is best planted in autumn as it needs a cold spell to stimulate growth. However there are varieties that can be planted in early spring. 

Sets should be purchased from garden centres or specialist mail order supplier and not from the supermarket. There are two main sorts to choose from: hardneck and softneck. 

To sow, split the bulb into cloves and plant in rows 4-6 inches (10-15cm) apart, 1 inch (2.5cm) deep with the pointed end facing up. 

Garlic can rot in waterlogged soil so is you have heavy clay soil consider starting them off in modules finding out more on how to grow garlic will ensure your crop is a success.

Broad beans – if your vegetable garden is in a sheltered position early varieties of broad beans can be planted direct in October for an early crop the following year.

(Image credit: Trine Loklindt EyeEm/Getty Images)

November

As the temperature drops there are little sowings that can be made in November, but there is still plenty of edibles to harvest including brassicas such as kale, cabbage, Brussel sprouts and kalettes. 

Root vegetables can be lifted including the last of the carrots, parsnip, beetroot and celeriac, plus hardy salad leaves can be picked. 

Asparagus – while the crowns are traditionally planted in spring, you can grow asparagus by planting in fall, too, to help give the crop a head start.

(Image credit: Alamy)

December

December is a good time to plan what you are going to grow in the year ahead and crisp winter days can be a good opportunity to prepare the soil for the coming growing season. Take notes of what worked well and plan crop rotations for the year to come. 

Winter salad – seeds of mustard greens, mizuna, corn salad, lambs lettuce and ‘Winter Gem’ lettuce can be grown outside in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. If you live in a mild area you can grow them in the ground and use cloches to protect them if temperatures dip dramatically.

Garlic – December is the last chance to plant fall garlic varieties. 

If you live in a mild climate and you have free-draining soil sets can be planted directly – they do not grow well in waterlogged soils. 

(Image credit: RHS/Georgi Mabee)

What month do you plant vegetables?

There are vegetables that can be planted right through the year from January to December. Using a vegetable planting calendar is a handy tool for planning when to plant vegetables, but ultimately what month you plant vegetables will depend on your climate and growing zone, as well as the last frost date in your area.  

Generally March and April, when the soil begins to warm, are the best months to begin sowing many hardy annual vegetable seeds outdoors including broccoli, cabbage, chard, carrots, peas and parsnips. Some of these can be started off under cover in a greenhouse or on a sunny window sill from February to help give them a head start, ready for planting outside once the weather warms. 

Vegetables suited for growing in a greenhouse such as tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers and chilli peppers can also be planted undercover from February.

(Image credit: Leigh Clapp)

From March, frost-tender, half-hardy vegetables can be started off under cover ready for transplanting once the risk of frost has passed including zucchini, pumpkin, sweetcorn and aubergine. After this time, generally from late May and June, frost tender half-hardy annual vegetables can then be planted out into their final position or sown directly outside.

Successive sowings of many fast maturing vegetables can be sown from March up until July including radish, beetroot and spring onions.  

In July and August many hardy vegetables can be planted for winter harvesting including cabbage, pak choi, spring cabbage, spinach and chard.

The growing season slows from October when temperatures begin to dip but this is the prime time to plant garlic. winter salads can continue to be planted and broad beans can be sown for an early spring crop.

Pippa is Content Editor on Homes & Gardens online contributing to Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors print issues. A graduate of Art History and formerly Style Editor at Period Living, she is passionate about architecture, creating decorating content, interior styling and writing about craft and historic homes. She enjoys searching out beautiful images and the latest trends to share with the Homes & Gardens audience. A keen gardener, when she’s not writing you’ll find her growing flowers on her village allotment for styling projects.

12 Fruits and Vegetables to Plant in Spring

Ah, spring. The sun is shining, the trees are budding, and most importantly, the ground is thawing. Interested in growing your own fruits and veggies this season? Wondering what to plant in the spring? Here are a few low-maintenance spring fruits and vegetables you can raise—even as a beginner.

HONEYDEW

Honeydew is best planted in late spring, when the soil is warm. Build planting “hills” that are about three feet wide and flat on top, in well-spread rows. Dig out small moat-like circles around each mound. Add fertilizer or compost to your soil to help your new plants grow (melons do well with manure). Next, add four to six seeds in each hill, pushing them an inch into the mounds.

CUCUMBER

Cucumbers are great for spring planting. To enjoy fresh cucumbers all summer long, you need to plant them two weeks after the last frost. Cucumbers require a lot of sunlight and fertile soil in order to flourish, so pick a sunny spot and add lots of fertilizer. Plant the seeds in rows that are six feet apart.

BEETS

Beets are a great choice for early spring. These spring plants do well right after the last frost when the ground is cold but not frozen—they don’t grow as well if it’s too hot. Beets don’t need a lot of space, so they can be grown in pots. If you decide to plant them in the ground, use a garden tiller to make sure the soil is loose and rock-free. Soak the beet seeds in warm water to soften the shells before planting them half an inch in the ground. Spread the seeds out three inches apart. Once the seedlings appear, make sure the soil is consistently moist by watering them often.

CARROTS

It might be a little late for carrots (they’re best planted a few weeks before the last frost), but you can still meet with success if you plant them right now. The orange veggies do best in loose soil that is free of rocks. Plant the seeds three inches apart in rows that are a foot apart. Don’t use manure in the soil or else your carrots may end up growing extra legs (really!).

TOMATOES

Tomatoes are sun-worshipers and do best in warm soil, so it’s best to plant them in late spring. Add lots of compost and fertilizer to the soil so that the tomatoes get enough nutrients. The plants also need lots of growing room, so place the seeds far apart.

PEPPERS

Peppers are a little trickier to grow if you don’t live in a warm climate. To make them work in colder weather, most gardeners will start by growing the seeds inside and transplant them after 8 to 10 weeks. Begin by putting the seeds in a warm, wet paper towel inside a plastic bag. Once the seeds sprout, they can be moved to a pea pot, and eventually into the ground. They shouldn’t be planted outside until the overnight temperature is 55°F at the lowest.

BEANS

Unlike peppers, beans are not likely to survive being transplanted. Instead, these plants should be reserved for places with six hours of uninterrupted sunlight. Seeds should be planted one inch into the soil, about three inches apart from one another. If you opted to plant pole beans, keep in mind that they will grow vines and need stakes or trellises to cling to.

BROCCOLI

Broccoli can survive in colder climates and thrives in slightly acidic soil. Plant the seeds half an inch underground. You can start to fertilize three weeks after planting.

GARLIC

Garlic is a cinch to grow, and as an added bonus, the stinky plant works as a natural insect repellent. It’s normally planted in fall, but early spring is also an option. Plant your cloves two inches into the soil and four inches apart. Make sure to cut off any flower shoots that may pop up in the spring, as they inhibit bulb growth.

POTATOES

Potatoes are a hearty plant that can survive a frost or two, which means they can be planted right at the beginning of spring. Make sure the dirt is slightly acidic and loose—tightly compacted soil leads to malformed potatoes. To plant, cut up a potato and plant the chunks, eye side up, four inches deep. When the stems of the plants reach eight inches, start to cover the bottoms with extra soil. Sunlight makes the potatoes green and bitter tasting, so it’s best to keep them well covered.

ONIONS

Plant onions in soil mixed with compost in early spring. The bulbs should be placed about six inches apart. A steady supply of water is needed for the little bulbs to grow, but they’re heartier than they may appear and can snap back from a drought.

RASPBERRIES

These antioxidant-packed berries are perfect for summer fruit salads. They can be planted in the summer, but early spring yields the best tasting crops. The berries are prone to root rot, so they do best well in a raised bed with rich soil that drains well. Manure or compost will help the fruit really flourish.

 

Plant well, eat well! Check out these healthy spring eating choices to get you back on track!

What to plant in the garden: a list of popular vegetables, fruits and berries

After buying a summer cottage, the question immediately arises of what to plant in your garden. However, you should not rush into choosing a crop, first you need to decide what exactly you want to grow and answer a few simple questions for yourself.

It is best to plan the site in advance on a large sheet of paper, and only then start working. Issues of water supply, quality drainage and soil are also important, however, if your site does not have access to direct sunlight, some crops will have to be abandoned.

Not many people know, but some cultivated plants can be planted in flowerpots or even pots. Some of them will bring not only fruits, but will also become a decoration of the house, due to their decorative effect. You can order indoor plants, as well as flowers in Ternopil online, without leaving your home or office.

Planting layout

Planning is very important, especially for the beginner gardener. Do not limit yourself to approximate sizes and rely on intuition. It is best to use a tape measure to make accurate measurements and draw the data obtained on an A3 sheet. Do not forget to measure all the buildings that already exist and are only planned. Carefully measure your gazebo, compost site, vegetable garden, home (if any), seating area, or barbecue. Make measurements and make several copies of the resulting plan. Choose well-lit and more shady areas, make appropriate notes on the plan. Allocate a large number of places for greenhouses or hotbeds and do not forget about the paths. Designate a water source.

What crops need beds

There are two important rules to remember before planting crops. First, some cultures do not get along well with each other. And secondly, do not plant the same crops in the same place every year. This can negatively affect their quality. There are some cultures that take root well without a garden bed. For example, dill seeds can simply be scattered around the site, and beans, radishes, beets and turnips can grow without beds. Raspberries can be planted next to fruit trees along the fence or set aside a special area for them - raspberries. However, remember that no other fruits or vegetables can be planted under a raspberry bush. Now let's look at which crops need beds, and also dwell on the compatibility of different crops.

Cucumbers . They grow well near potatoes, cabbage, beets and peas. Every year you need to look for a new place for these healthy vegetables.

Potato . Root vegetables, cabbage and the same cucumbers grow well with this perennial, but you should stay away from tomatoes because of common pests and diseases. Do not forget that potatoes, like love, live only three years, and then it is better to transplant them to another place.

Tomatoes . It is best to plant tomatoes with cauliflower and white cabbage, onions and legumes. If you are going to plant this crop every year, take care of the soil, as after 2-3 years of use it becomes too acidic. To avoid this, add some lime to the soil and dig deep into the soil.

Bow . In one place it is better not to plant more than 3 years in a row. It takes root well in soil rich in organic fertilizers or, if you plant onions in place of potatoes, tomatoes or cabbage. Sunlight and loose soil are critical for this plant. In clayey and heavy soil, the harvest will be poor, if at all.

Garlic . It is best to choose spring varieties of garlic, for example, "Gulliver". They give a good harvest and are easy to care for. The main thing is not to grow this crop in one place for more than 2 years, otherwise there is a possibility of soil contamination with a nematode.

Carrot . Sow immediately after early potatoes and cabbage. It will not be a mistake to place carrots immediately after tomato or peas.

Strawberry . The best predecessors are radishes, lettuce, celery, mustard and flowers (tulips, irises). They are usually planted in May in the sunniest place and, preferably, on a cloudy day.

Strawberry . Radishes, beans and parsley are suitable as a precursor for this delicious berry. Categorically not suitable cucumbers, tomatoes, all types of ranunculus and sunflowers. Strawberry transplantation is usually carried out in spring and autumn. There will be no berry transplantation in the year, so it is usually carried out in the fall. By the time of flowering, the root will have time to get stronger, and the strawberry will have time to adapt to new conditions.

In addition to these crops, you can grow radishes, pumpkins, beets, beans, corn and squash in the garden.

Selecting a location for each crop

Even on large farms, there is often not enough space or time to plant all the plants. In small summer cottages, there is even less free space. I want to plant tomatoes and potatoes, install a greenhouse and make a vineyard, but often you have to prioritize and choose. If you plant only one crop in the garden, then the soil will be depleted, and pathogens of various diseases will become a real threat to the site.

That is why experienced gardeners came up with the concept of crop rotation, that is, the alternation of different crops in the soil. In small areas, a full-fledged crop rotation is impossible, but at least a fruit change is necessary (when a crop is grown in one place for no more than 2-3 years). All crops are divided into several conditional groups: pumpkin (cucumber, zucchini, squash), tomato (pepper, eggplant, tomato) and cabbage (headed, cauliflower, broccoli, etc.).

Decide on size and location before changing crops, then vary every 3-4 years. It is important that cultures return to “their” original place. It is for this that copies of the plan, drawn up in advance, are needed in order to return the cabbage to the soil, which has recently been freed from potatoes. If everything is done correctly, your cultures will not change, unlike their location. This rotation will keep your garden healthy and allow you to get the maximum yield each year. If you plant exclusively a monoculture on your site, for example, potatoes, then for the health of the soil, plant intermediate crops (green manure) in parallel and plow them into green manure (for example, cereals, beans, peas, barley).

In the text above, we indicated with which plants popular crops have the maximum synergy. For a garden entirely consisting of green crops, alternate lettuce, dill, radish, basil and parsley. In a perennial ornamental garden, alternation is generally recommended once every 5 years. Crop rotation is convenient because plants receive natural protection from pests, grow well and do not deplete the soil, but supplement it with their alternation.

List of crops that can be planted in a summer cottage

With the advent of spring, many summer residents think about what crops to plant in their area. Of course, it is necessary to build on personal preferences and family preferences. But it is also necessary to choose the right neighbors for vegetables and fruits and distribute them over the site in order to reap a good harvest and not deplete the soil.

Vegetables

Vegetable plants are one of the most popular crops among summer residents. They are quite easy to grow, conveniently located, so at the end we get cheap and natural products from our own farm. We bring to your attention a list of the most popular vegetables that you can easily grow in your country house.

How to Arrange Vegetables

The conventional wisdom is to arrange the beds from north to south using a compass. It is important to monitor the location of the sun at dawn so that the rays can warm the plants and high plantings do not obscure the low ones in the morning. It is the morning sun that is considered the most favorable and productive in terms of photosynthesis for plants.

  1. Make the beds the same length and width
  2. North-south ridges are good for low plants and level ground with good drainage.
  3. In uneven terrain, plant priority vegetables on the south, sunny side to get a good harvest.
  4. One, maximum 2 acres of land is enough for a family for vegetables.
  5. If the site has a slope, it would be most reasonable to first level it a little, adding earth, and plantings should be placed horizontally to maximize the use of moisture.
What vegetables can be planted under the trees (in the shade)

Fruit

Berries

What is best to plant in the garden in spring and after frost

Curly cabbage . The vegetable can withstand temperatures down to minus 20 and is ideal for growing in early spring.

Radish . Radish seeds begin their growth already at +2 degrees. At too high temperatures, the radish becomes coarse and bitter, for him the cold is his best friend.

Carrot . Unpretentious cold-resistant culture, which is usually sown in late April. Seeds germinate well even at +4 degrees.

Turnip . The seeds of the legendary plant sprout even at sub-zero temperatures.

Arugula . This plant is often used in Mediterranean cuisine. You can plant seeds even in autumn, arugula does not die in sub-zero temperatures and frosts.

Spinach . Sailor Papaya's favorite delicacy is a very healthy and tasty plant. It begins to grow even in a slight minus, and the seedlings calmly tolerate frosts down to -15 degrees.

Peas . It grows rapidly in soil warmed up to 7 degrees. In addition, it revitalizes the soil and synergizes well with many plants.

Parsley . A very useful and tasty plant that grows quietly in the shade and does not pay attention to temperature changes.

Beetroot . It grows at +4 degrees and does not require special care or heat. After the appearance of the first leaves, the beets do not seem to notice any temperature changes (except for the very extreme ones).

Potatoes . The second bread for our people reacts quite calmly to frost and temperature changes. Tubers are planted in soil that has warmed up to +7 degrees. The largest crops are obtained in moderately warm temperatures, but even in a cold winter, the crop can remain alive, there will simply be fewer potatoes, and the fruits will be worse.

Celery . The plant grows for a very long time (up to 120 days) and is often bred using seedlings. Celery shoots survive at -5 degrees, but die in severe frosts. Based on this, calculate the time and place of planting a useful plant.

Lettuce . Only in appearance this plant looks like a gentle and thermophilic guest from other countries. Lettuce can withstand even -6 degrees and grows quickly in the shade. True, the payback for this is inedible and bitter leaves after harvest.

Rutabaga . The closest relative of the turnip sprouts in a few days even at 7-10 degrees and withstands slight frosts.

What is good for planting in summer

Shrubs and fruit-bearing trees - pears, cherries, apple trees, currant bushes or raspberries are best planted in summer. These crops are the best choice for summer residents who appear on the site only in the summer, and even then, on weekends. When planting, it is advisable to fertilize the soil well so as not to let the plants wither and not deplete the soil. Also, look carefully at the site plan so that the roots of large trees do not interfere with other plants on the site. In addition, the bushes will form a beautiful hedge that will protect against noise and curious neighbors.

Melons . Watermelons and melons are not the most common choice for the site, but if you perceive the cottage as a hobby, then why not. They grow well without much human intervention, the only thing is to carefully monitor pests and beware of thieves.

Corn . Seedlings will make excellent cobs, and homemade corn tastes much better than store-bought. The only negative is that it takes up a lot of space and grows quickly.

Strawberry . Unfortunately, the first fruits can be obtained only next year. Many birds are not averse to eating strawberries, so it is better to cover the seedlings with an awning, but after ripening you can fully enjoy the taste of this beautiful berry.

Nemophiles . So that the site gives not only congestion, but also aesthetic joy, plant nemophila flowers. Plant them simply in open ground, they take root well and delight with a beautiful colored carpet for a long time.

Dill . Varieties of Armenian or Sukhumi dill are an excellent choice for planting in July. In addition to the fact that the plant is rich in vitamins and microelements, it also looks organic on any table as a seasoning or in a salad. Dill is always paired with parsley, so it is recommended to plant this plant on the site.

Basil . A unique herb that doesn't chase moisture or shade. Adds flavor to various salads and is used simply as an appetizer. Large leaves can also shield potatoes from direct sunlight. Basil gives a great smell that refreshes the entire territory of the summer cottage.

What vegetables to plant side by side on the same bed to increase the yield

Have you ever heard of mixed plantings or companion vegetables? The essence of this method is simple: take several varieties of garden crops that are comfortable with each other and grow them together. Understanding how companion plants work together helps increase yields and solve some gardening problems.


Our grandmothers said: "Tomatoes love carrots. " This old proverb says that these two vegetables can multiply their yield by many times, making the plants strong, happy and healthy. For many years, the idea of ​​companion planting was only a personal observation of farmers and amateur gardeners. Recently, however, scientists have studied the effect of plants on the growth and development of each other and found several advantages of such a scheme for planting vegetables in the beds:

Protection against aggressive external factors. More tender plants grow well with hardy varieties that take the brunt of heavy rains, scorching sun and piercing wind.

Improved pollination. Individual crops with a strong aroma and rich color attract pollinating insects. Thanks to this, they pay attention to all the plants that are nearby. Plants that attract insects for pollination always increase yields.

Bait for pests. There are seedlings that attract pests like bee jam. Planting such plants shifts the attention of pests from important vegetable crops. Farmers simply create separate beds with special plants to lure and trap pests.

Pest repellent. There are plants that release substances that are toxic to pests. They cannot get used to such seedlings, and therefore are forced to leave the beds with vegetables.

Soil enrichment. There are crops that enrich the soil with nutrients.

Benefits of planting companion vegetables

If you do not know what to plant with what and how to increase the yield in the garden, use the companion planting method. In addition to increasing yields, it has other benefits:

Which plants attract pollinators to the beds

It would seem that everything is simple: pollen is carried by the wind, and plants pollinate themselves. actually 90% flowering crops need help with pollination from native insects: bumblebees, bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

These companion plants are perfect for any garden. Their main task is to attract pollinating insects to your beds. For best results, plant them in beds with berries and vegetables. But do not limit yourself to one exotic. In this floral mix, be sure to have native plants in your area that insects already know and are looking for.

So, which plants attract pollinators? Calendula, catnip, parsley, dill, thyme, buckwheat, coriander, calendula, echinacea, alyssum. The spring flowers of muscari, a type of grape hyacinth, also attract bees well. They are one of the first to bloom in the spring.

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Which plants repel pests

Some cultures secrete substances that repel predatory insects. They help to suppress the growth and development of harmful microorganisms, which favorably affects the yield of beds. Therefore, make it a habit to plant plants with allelopathic properties (the ability to inhibit the growth of other organisms) in the garden. The most popular pest fighters are marigolds.

How to plant marigolds to save the harvest? Marigolds bloom all summer, saturate the soil with useful substances and have a detrimental effect on weeds: creeping wheatgrass and horsetail. In addition, these flowers repel moles, the Colorado potato beetle, nematodes, aphids, bears, cabbage whites, wireworms, and onion flies.

If marigolds are planted between rows of potatoes, you will have to use less pesticides. Also plant flowers in the beds with tomatoes, strawberries and cucumbers to save them from aphids. The radius of the flower is 60 cm. Flower plantings protect onions and cabbage. It is worth noting that marigolds protect not only vegetables, but also flower crops: roses, gladiolus, phlox.


Another important pest repeller is calendula . It is good to plant it together with peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, asparagus. It disinfects the soil, protects berries and vegetable plants from mites and root rot. Rose bushes also protect calendula from many diseases.

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What to plant with what: which companion vegetables improve the taste of each other

As they say: there are no comrades for the taste and color, but many gardeners still adhere to the classic planting companions. Here are the most popular combinations:

Which plants enrich the soil with nutrients

Add beans, clover, or peas to your vegetable garden to increase the nitrogen content of the soil. These crops contain bacteria in their roots that draw nitrogen from the atmosphere and convert it into a form useful to the earth and plants. To improve the quality of the soil, get ready to plant peas, beans, beans, clover. And if the garden lacks calcium, plant buckwheat.

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What to plant with what: What vegetables can be planted nearby to increase the yield

Companion vegetables: Tomato + onion/garlic + basil
Onions and tomatoes are a great tandem, because snails and slugs do not live on such beds. Basil enriches the aroma of ripe tomatoes.

Partner plants: Cabbage + radishes + marigolds
Cabbage surrounded by radishes and flowers will never encounter pests that destroy its roots. Add some garlic to this bed if you want to forget about the slugs.

Companion vegetables: Salad + carrot + garlic
Carrots and lettuce go great next to each other. Plant green onions and garlic nearby to keep the lettuce free from aphids and other pests.

Partner plants: courgettes (cucurbits) + beans + corn
It's a win-win combination used by farmers all over the world. Zucchini is good next to legumes and corn, because they effectively repel pests. Beans delight with exuberant color than attract pollinators to the pumpkin. And corn, in turn, becomes a support for trailing beans.

The best companion vegetables in the garden: Cabbage + beans + beets
If the beets have deep roots, then cabbage and beans with small roots do not compete with it and do not interfere with growth. And this means that vegetables will not steal nutrients from each other. The exception is string beans, which are not compatible with beets.

List of the best companion vegetables for your garden:

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Also read:
• Which pruner is better for the garden - contact or bypass
• How to choose the best floor sweeper
• Detailed guide on how to choose the best toilet brush

What vegetables should not be planted next to each other?

Not all vegetables get along with each other in the beds. Garden crops release potassium and nitrogen, which can speed up or slow down the growth of neighbors by changing the pH level of the soil. So, for example, cucumbers feel good with lettuce, radishes and beans, but suffocate next to potatoes. Tomatoes should stay away from corn because they have a common enemy - a fungal infection. If the tomatoes become infected, they will pull the corn along with them. The same story with the other two combinations "potato + tomato" and "pepper + potato". Grow these garden crops on opposite sides of the garden.

List of bad garden companion vegetables:

Now you know which vegetables to plant next to increase the yield, and which ones become bad neighbors and interfere with each other. Use these simple tips this year to get the most out of your work. And the Store of Permanent Sales reminds you that you can buy goods for summer cottages and gardens in our online store right now.

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