Upright fuchsia care


Growing and caring for Fuchsias - Master Gardeners - MCBG Corp. 2023

Above: Fuchsia boliviana 'Alba' at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

Here on the North Coast, fuchsias enjoy a nearly perfect climate. The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens maintains a collection of both species and hybrids. Over 60 fuchsias have been planted in the Woodland Garden. There is also a lovely display of trailing and standard fuchsias in the Display House. You can visit and enjoy the fuchsias any time from summer to late fall, even in winter if the weather is mild.

Planting
Although fuchsias are considered shade plants, they need lots of light to grow and bloom. Choose a location outdoors where the plants receive direct morning sun or filtered sun all day. The warmer the climate, the more shade will be necessary. Fuchsias are at their best where the summer days stay below 85 degrees F. and the nights are cool. In hot and dry climates, the plants grow poorly and the flower size shrinks. Growers in those areas must provide good shade and wind protection and install automatic misting systems. Prolonged sub-freezing temperatures damage the majority of fuchsias. Hardy cultivars can survive temperatures in the teens if they are well established in the ground, have been planted deep, and have been given a heavy layer of mulch. They will freeze to the ground and re-sprout from the roots. Container plants will have to be moved under shelter.

Red- and orange-flowered varieties take full sun near the ocean. White and pastel hanging basket varieties must be shaded. Some small flowered pot plant varieties will also grow in a very bright window, but usually do not do as well as outside, especially on the West Coast.

If there seems to be too much stem between sets of leaves, move the fuchsia to more light. Turning the plants a quarter turn on a regular basis will also make them more symmetrical. If shade in your yard comes from trees, be careful where you place the fuchsias until the trees have leafed out completely.

Soil
Plant fuchsias in humus-rich soil in the garden or use a light organic planter mix in containers with perfect drainage. Wooden containers or fiber pots keep the roots cool and allow the plant to "breathe." Clay pots do the same but dry out faster.

Watering
Fuchsias like their roots moist, but not soggy wet. Water when the surface of the growing medium becomes dry. A container plant in full bloom needs water once a day or possibly twice in very warm and dry weather. Do not water a wilted plant in the midday heat if the soil is still wet. You may suffocate the roots! Mist the leaves to reduce surface temperatures and move the plant to a cooler location.

Fertilizing
How you care for your fuchsias in March and April will affect how well they grow and blossom in the summer. Start in spring with a regular fertilizing schedule, beginning with a light application each week. A good rule of thumb to use is to mix a balanced water soluble fertilizer half-strength and feed fuchsias each week. You can switch to a "bloom" formula of fertilizer when the plants are setting buds, but do not cut out the nitrogen altogether since fuchsias continue to grow while they are blooming. Remember that a container plant needs regular feeding because there is little soil to hold nutrients and the frequent watering leaches them out faster. In cold winter areas, withhold fertilizer in the fall to harden plants off before they go dormant for the winter. Most fuchsias need long days to flower. Some varieties, notably the F. triphylla hybrids, can be in bloom all year long if the climate is mild.

Pests and Diseases
In hot climates and for greenhouse growers, white fly can be extremely problematic. Whitefly populations in the early stages of population development can be held down by a vigilant program of removing infested leaves, vacuuming adults, or hosing down (syringing) with water sprays. Insecticidal soaps or oils such as neem oil may reduce but not eliminate populations. Don't miss the underside of the leaves. Test all sprays first; the tender leaves and flowers are easily burned. Also be aware of fuchsia gall mite, a microscopic mite that sucks the plant juices and injects a poison that causes the fuchsia to produce gnarled and crippled growth, similar to peach leaf curl. Stems, leaves, and flowers swell and become hairy and galled. Within these galls, the mites live and breed, protected from predators. See below for a detailed review of treatment.

Rust is a cool weather disease and usually at its worst in the fall. Provide plants with a lot of room for air movement. Pick off affected leaves and destroy them, and avoid overhead watering, which favors spore germination. Give your plants more sun. Grow varieties that are less rust prone. Orange-flowered varieties tend to be the first to rust.

Pruning and Maintenance
Prune heavily in late winter or early spring, after the danger of frost is past. On the North Coast, it is recommended that pruning be done by mid February. Remove dead wood and most of the previous year's growth for upright fuchsias. Leave only a few strong vertical canes. The pruned branches of a hanging basket should ideally look like the spokes of a wagon wheel. Roots of container plants may also be pruned at this time.

Start feeding as soon as green growth appears. Pinch out growing tips after two sets of leaves are formed. Snipping out the new leaves on the end of each branch makes two new branches grow where there was one. Repeated pinching produces bushier plants and more blooms. Flowers will open six to eight weeks after pinching is stopped. Pick off berries to prolong the blooming season.

Training
Fuchsias can be trained to grow as a bush, tree, basket, wall-pocket, espalier, or even bonsai. To learn which varieties are best suited for which form and how to do it, contact the fuchsia society. See below for detailed information on training a fuchsia standard.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
For more information on fuchsias, see the website for the American Fuchsia Society at www. americanfuchsiasociety.org.

Learn more about the Fuchsia Collection at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens.

Fuchsia Growing Tips For Success

Home › Ornamental Gardens › Flowers › Fuchsia

Fuchsia

By: Caroline Bloomfield

Image by liuyushan

Beautiful, delicate fuchsias come in thousands of varieties and colors, with multi-colored blossoms that hang and droop beautifully from baskets, planters, and pots. Often trellised in the garden, fuchsia plants can be bushy or vining and trailing.

Wild fuchsias, native to Central and South America, grow profusely in the Andes where temperatures are cool, and the air is moist. Fuchsias were named after a 16th century German botanist – Leonard Fuchs. They don’t require constant maintenance, but do plan on paying attention to them. Read on for more fuchsia growing tips.

Fuchsia Growing Tips

If you live in zones 6 or 7 and are growing fuchsia in your garden, you’ve probably chosen a “hardy” variety. Good fuchsia plant care entails planting them in soil with a pH level of 6 to 7. However, they’re fairly adaptable in many kinds of soil, so long as it drains well and quickly. Fuchsia roots don’t like to sit in water.

Fuchsias love lots of filtered light but are particularly intolerant of heat. Making sure your fuchsia baskets or planters have plenty of dappled shade and daytime temperatures well below 80 degrees F. (27 C.) will encourage a healthy bloom. Fuchsias also prefer cooler nighttime temperatures. If you’re expecting a period of hot summer weather, it’s good to have a backup plan for sheltering your fuchsia plants to support their blooming activity through the summer.

If you’re growing fuchsias indoors, a window with bright, indirect sunlight works best. However, they do like humidity and will languish if the air is too dry, whether indoors or out. Fuchsia blossoms are a wonderful treat for pollinators, so expect plenty of bees and hummers if you’re growing them outside.

Care of Fuchsias

Fuchsias will thrive and blossom more abundantly if they’re pinched back as new growth appears. When a branch has finished blooming, clip it back with clean garden shears.

You can fertilize fuchsias every couple of weeks in spring and summer, but begin to taper off feeding as fall approaches. Diluted fish emulsion works beautifully.

If you live in zones 10 or 11, your fuchsia may behave as a perennial, but in colder zones you may need to replant in spring or move your plants indoors for the winter. Snip off any dead leaves and stems and keep your plant in a cool dark environment, watering only every third or fourth week throughout the dormant period. It won’t look great, but in early spring with some fresh sunlight, water, and food, it should spring back to life.

Fuchsia plants can be subject to various fungal infections and viral diseases. Be sure to keep the area around your fuchsias free from dead leaves, stems, and other materials and debris. Watch for problems that might develop at the junctures of stem and leaf, and treat the plants with neem oil and insecticidal soap when necessary. You may want to introduce some beneficial insects to keep the bad ones away.

Fuchsias are worth the time it takes to maintain a proper environment for them. Care of fuchsias is not necessarily low maintenance, but with a little special attention their beauty is worth a bit of extra effort.

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home care, photos, species, varieties, transplantation, diseases and pests of the flower

There are 113 (1) evergreen and deciduous species in the genus Fuchsia of the Onagraceae family. The genus is named after the famous German scientist Leonhard Fuchs, a botanist and physician who first described it in his fundamental work The History of Plants.

In the natural flora, fuchsias are found in Central and South America, as well as in New Zealand. In culture today, along with individual species and their varieties, hybrid fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida) is most often grown. nine0003

In nature, life forms of fuchsias are shrubs, shrubs, shrubs and even small trees with opposite or whorled leaves of oval or lanceolate shape. The surface of the leaves is smooth (matte, glossy) or velvety.

Any fuchsia is a bright individual thanks to drooping flowers of various colors and original shapes. They are called ballerinas, gypsy earrings, Chinese lanterns, dolls, trinkets. Fuchsia flowers are an excellent subject for both spectacular shots and thoughtful looking at. And the structure of the flower is very convenient for artificial pollination when creating new varieties. It consists of a tubular calyx, which ends with four spreading sepals, a corolla with straight petals forming a crown, long stamens and a pistil (ballerina's legs) that hang down a few centimeters below the petals. nine0003

Flowers are simple (non-double), semi-double, double. Semi-double fuchsias have up to 7 petals in a flower, and terry fuchsias have 8 or more.

Fuchsias bloom from spring to late autumn, and under favorable conditions almost all year round.

The fruit is an edible berry. Seeds are very small, almost flat, light brown.

Types and varieties of fuchsia

At home, 8 types of fuchsia are most often grown.

Three-leaf fuchsia (Fuchsia triphylla). Forms a dense bush when grown in pots up to 60 cm high. The leaves are ovate, about 8 cm long, the upper side of the leaf is reddish-green, the lower side is brown-red. Bell-shaped flowers are collected in a brush. Their color is determined by bright coral sepals that form a tube. Petals of the same color, very short, barely protruding from the calyx. nine0003

Abundant and lush flowering from May to October.

In winter, this fuchsia is kept at a temperature not lower than 10 °C and not higher than 15 °C. In summer, it can withstand high temperatures and even bright sun.

Fuchsia trifoliate gave rise to triphylla hybrids, on the basis of which excellent varieties for hanging baskets and planters appeared:

Three-leaf fuchsia. Photo: pixabay.com

Magellanic Fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica). This evergreen fuchsia is the most winter-hardy and hardy. It comes from the middle mountains of the Andes and is able to winter under the snow even in central Russia when covered with spruce branches and light hilling. However, plants are usually grown in containers and brought in for the winter in a cool (3 - 5 ° C) room. nine0003

Its leaves are violet-green, about 4 cm long. Flowers solitary or in racemes of 3-5, with cream-red calyx and purple corolla.

Blooms from May to October.

This fuchsia also has interesting varieties:

Magellanic fuchsia. Photo: pixabay.com

Bolivian fuchsia (Fuchsia boliviana). One of the most beautiful fuchsias. Evergreen shrub, in containers about 1 m high, grows well indoors and tolerates pruning. With good care, it blooms almost all year round. Prefers partial shade and adequate moisture. Winters at temperatures around 10°C. nine0003

The leaves are large (up to 15 cm long and about 6 cm wide), dark green with a velvety surface and a serrated edge. The flowers are dark red, tubular, with a long (about 6 cm) calyx and a short corolla (2 cm), collected in lush brushes at the ends of drooping peduncles. This fuchsia has a form Alba - with a white skirt.

Bolivian fuchsia. Photo: pixabay.com

Bright red fuchsia (Fuchsia coccinea). Shade tolerant fast growing shrub. Shoots are thin, drooping. The leaves are oval on short petioles. Flowers with long red calyx and purple corolla. nine0003

Blooms from April to October.

Brilliant fuchsia (Fuchsia fulgens). Rare view. Well leafy shrub up to 1.5 m. Shoots are thin, flexible, reddish. The leaves are large, up to 15 cm long, broadly ovate, with a finely serrated edge, purple-green. The flowers are collected in drooping apical inflorescences-brushes. They have dark pink tubular calyces about 5 cm long and small red petals. This fuchsia has the most delicious and largest (up to 5 cm long) fruits with a tart lemon aroma. Unfortunately, they ripen only in nature. nine0003

Blooms from spring to autumn.

Most popular varieties:

  • Swanley Yellow - with bright orange petals and cream sepals;
  • Traudchen Bonstedt - with pale salmon sepals and bright salmon petals.
Fuchsia brilliant. Photo: pixabay.com

Small-leaved fuchsia (Fuchsia microphylla). Low-growing shrub with reddish shoots and small (up to 4 cm long), reddish-green pointed leaves with a serrated edge. The flowers are red-purple, small, solitary, located in the axils of the leaves. nine0003

Blooms from spring to autumn.

Graceful fuchsia (Fuchsia gracilis). Shrub up to 1 m high, with thin reddish shoots. The leaves are 5-6 cm long, green with reddish veins, oval-lanceolate with a serrated edge and a smooth surface. The flowers are collected in gracefully falling racemose inflorescences. They have bright red cups and a purple corolla skirt.

Fuchsia elegant. Photo: YouTube

Fuchsia hybrida (Fuchsia hybrida). A widespread houseplant, the number of its varieties has already exceeded one thousand. They differ in the shape of the flower, its size, the degree of doubleness, the color of the calyx (usually it is not green, but red or white in different shades) and the corolla (white, pink, red, purple). Bicolor varieties abound in spectacular color combinations. nine0003

Fuchsias are also distinguished by the size of the flower - small-, medium- and large-flowered. There are also unique forms - with flowers the size of a palm.

Fuchsia hybrid. Photo: pixabay.com

The most popular - beautiful and unpretentious varieties include:

  • Alfred de Groot - a viable variety that easily adapts to growing conditions, a compact, upright bush, green leaves, ovate with a jagged edge, simple flowers with pale pink cup and pink-purple corolla; nine0036
  • Annabel - slender, drooping shoots, green, lanceolate leaves with a sharp apex and serrated edge, large, double flowers, with a white skirt and light pink sepals, dark pink stamens;
  • Ballerina - upright shrub, large double flowers with scarlet sepals and lush pale pink corolla, dark pink stamens;
  • Cecile - erect bush, strongly branched, densely double flowers with light red sepals and bluish-lilac wavy petals; nine0036
  • Clara - ampelous variety, flowers are large, double, with white sepals and a cherry skirt in light strokes, pink stamens;
  • Marinka - an ampelous variety, flowers are simple, medium-sized, raspberry-red, blooms for a long time and very plentifully;
  • Millenium - very showy cultivar, erect shrub, large, double flowers with purple-red sepals and dark purple, almost black, rounded corolla;
  • Niedersachsen - classic ampelous variety, flowers are large, semi-double and double, with dark pink sepals and a snow-white skirt;
  • Prince of Peace - unpretentious ampelous variety, green ovate leaves with a sharp end and a finely serrated edge, simple flowers with a white calyx and a bright red or purple-red corolla;
  • Santa Clara - ampelous variety, large, double flowers, cherry-colored skirt with white strokes, white calyx. nine0036
  • Voodoo - erect plants with densely double large flowers, bright red sepals, corolla petals blue-violet, wavy.

Caring for fuchsia at home Photo: pixabay.com

At home, fuchsias grow under the forest canopy, at high humidity and moderate temperatures, illuminated by sunlight, "strained" foliage. There is a significant difference between day and night temperatures. Similar conditions must be created for plants in our home. nine0003

Soil

Fuchsias will do well with general potting mixes for potting plants with a slightly acidic environment, but to improve aeration, you need to add pieces of charcoal, perlite, vermiculite, as well as a little sand and clay soil or hydrogel to retain moisture.

Fuchsia soil can be prepared by mixing peat, humus or fertile soil and sand in a ratio of 2:3:1 (2). The earth needs to be warmed up or spilled with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. nine0003

A layer of expanded clay drainage is poured on the bottom of the pot, at least 1/4 of its height. In the absence of drainage, plants are threatened with waterlogging.

Lighting

Fuchsias need bright, but diffused light, they also withstand light shading. Windows facing east or west are best suited. And you can place the plant a couple of meters from the south window, protecting it from direct sunlight.

The place must be determined immediately, so as not to rearrange or turn the plant later, especially during the budding and flowering period. Fuchsias do not like this and can drop not only buds, but also leaves. nine0003

In summer indoor fuchsias should preferably be taken out to fresh air, but not under the scorching sun. In the garden, they are placed in partial shade or on outdoor windowsills with full morning sun.

Temperature

During the period of active growth and flowering, the favorable temperature for fuchsias is from 18 to 25 °C, the optimum is about 20 °C. Temperatures above 30 ° C are depressing. In winter, in the stage of relative dormancy, the most suitable temperature is 5 - 10 °C, taking into account the requirements of individual varieties and species (3), (4). In a cool room, the leaves may fall off, but new ones will grow in the spring. The room where fuchsias grow should be regularly ventilated, avoiding drafts. nine0003

Garden fuchsias can be kept in a frost-free basement until they are returned to the open ground in spring.

Humidity

Fuchsia should be watered regularly, as the top layer of the substrate dries out, but moderately, avoiding both complete drying and waterlogging of the earthy coma. It is recommended to drain excess water from pallets. In the warm season, fuchsias are responsive to spraying with settled water.

The best time to irrigate is in the early morning so that the plants actively absorb moisture until noon. nine0003

In autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter it is practically stopped, but make sure that the soil does not dry out.

Fertilizers

Fuchsias are fed with complex mineral fertilizers for indoor flowers or a complete fertilizer with trace elements. It is better to use fertilizer solutions.

Photo: pixabay.com

Top dressing

Feed fuchsia from mid-March to September every 7-10 days. From time to time, it is useful to water the plants with infusion of mullein or chicken manure with a dilution of 1:10. In September-October - 1 top dressing per month, and then they are stopped until spring (5). nine0003

After transplanting into fresh soil, fuchsias start feeding after about 30 days.

Pruning

In order for fuchsias to be lush and bloom profusely, they need to be cut and pinched regularly, as the flowers appear on new growths. The main pruning is done in early spring - early March, or in autumn, after flowering and active growth. Bushes can be formed by giving them a different shape.

During the growing season, shoots are shortened as needed, sometimes even by 1/3, and thin and weak branches are removed. They usually pinch the tops of the lateral shoots at the level of 2-3 pairs of leaves, due to this, the fuchsia branches better and lays more buds. Pinching can be repeated every time when three pairs of leaves are fully formed on the next lateral shoot (6). nine0003

During flowering, wilted flowers are regularly removed to encourage the formation of new ones.

Reproduction of fuchsia at home

Photo: YouTube

2 methods are usually used to propagate fuchsia.

Cuttings. Cuttings are often combined with spring pruning in early March, but this can be done until August.

Green cuttings about 12 cm long are rooted in wet sand or a mixture of peat and sand, using hormones to stimulate root formation (Kornevin). Roots usually appear after 3 weeks. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots filled with a disinfected soil mixture. nine0003

Seeds. When propagating fuchsia seeds, they are sown on top of a wet substrate of peat and sand (1: 1), covered with film or glass and placed in a warm (20 - 25 ° C) bright place. Seedlings appear within 2 weeks, after the formation of 5-6 leaves in seedlings, they dive into pots 5 cm in diameter with the same soil (7).

Plants from seed will flower in 4-5 months.

Transplanting fuchsia at home

Transplant fuchsia annually in the spring, before the start of active growth, when the roots of the plant have completely mastered the ground in the old pot. Too large a new pot is not good, it should be slightly larger than the previous one - 2 - 4 cm in diameter. In the process of transplanting fuchsias, it is sometimes necessary to trim roots that are too long (8). nine0003

To create a beautiful cascade of fuchsia flowers, you can plant several plants at once in one wide flowerpot, and immediately place them closer to the edges and obliquely to give the future bush a falling shape. During the growth of the green mass, the pot is regularly turned to the light in different directions - then the group will form evenly and magnificently.

Ampel and semi-ampel varieties of fuchsia at first have the shape of a bush, but over time, under the weight of numerous buds and flowers, flexible stems begin to bend beautifully and hang over the edge of the pot. To prevent fragile branches from breaking, they are tied to supports. nine0003

IT'S INTERESTING

One of the first synthetic dyes, obtained in 1856, was given the name "magenta" by chemists because of the similarity of the color of its aqueous solutions with the color of fuchsia flowers.

Fuchsia diseases

Powdery mildew. Fuchsias are often affected by powdery mildew, especially in high humidity. Small spots appear on the plants, powdered with a white powdery coating. They quickly increase in size, acquiring a brownish or gray color. Affected leaves dry up. nine0003

Biological preparations help with this fungal disease: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Planriz. In case of severe damage, spray with Fundazol (9) (1 g / l of water).

Dry rust . Dangerous fungal disease. In the affected plant, rusty-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves, as well as dusty pustules.

Diseased shoots are removed, and the plants are sprayed 2-3 times with Bordeaux liquid at intervals of 10-12 days.

Photo: YouTube

Gray rot. Fuchsia roots often suffer from it, especially when waterlogged . When transplanting plants, it is important to pay attention to the roots. They should be light, almost white and firm. If the roots are brownish and soft, then this is a sure sign of the presence of gray rot. A characteristic gray coating also appears on the leaves.

For prevention, Trichodermin, Zaslon, Barrier, etc. are applied to the soil. All affected parts of plants are removed and sprayed with fungicides Abiga Peak, Skor (9), copper sulfate.

Fuchsia pests

The main pests of fuchsia are aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, mealybugs.

Aphid. It is clearly visible, especially in the colonies. Damaged plants have deformed shoot tips and twisted leaves. They are covered with sticky secretions of insects, on which a sooty fungus settles.

With a small number of aphids, they can be washed off or cut off the inhabited branches. Severely affected plants are treated with insecticides Biotlin Tanrek, Karate or Fitoverm biopreparation (9) . Apply pesticides as directed.

Spider mites. They pierce the integumentary tissue of the leaves and suck out the juice from them. Therefore, the leaf blades are covered with small white dots, and with severe damage, they become discolored and dry out. Mass reproduction of ticks occurs in dry warm air.

Prevention - regular shower. Fight - spraying with infusions of garlic, chamomile, yarrow or acaricides - Aktellik, Neoron, Fitoverm (9).

Whitefly. In case of damage by the whitefly, discolored blurry spots appear on the leaves, and in case of mass reproduction of insects - sticky discharge. It is easy to notice the whitefly, but it is difficult to deal with it.

Insecticides Actellik, Konfidor, Mospilan are mainly used - according to the instructions for the preparations. Plants are treated several times with an interval of 5 days, as new generations of pests appear from the laid eggs.

FAQ

About the cultivation of fuchsia and the problems that arise, we talked with agricultural candidate. Sciences Irina Titova.

How to choose fuchsia?

Fuchsias are grown in bush, ampel and standard forms. Almost any variety can be grown in all three variants, as well as to make an ampelous or standard form from bush fuchsia and vice versa. So the main thing for a grower is the beauty of flowers, and this is a matter of taste.

What kind of pot is needed for fuchsia?

For fuchsias choose light pots and planters, or cover them from the sun. Ceramic products are preferred. nine0003

It is useful to cover the surface of the soil with light wood chips, small pebbles, marble chips to protect the roots from overheating.

Why do fuchsia leaves fall off?

The most likely cause of fuchsia leaf drop is warm, dry air. Spray plants with a spray bottle every 2 days or more. If possible, expose them to the open air.

Why do fuchsia leaves dry?

This happens when there is a lack of moisture and, conversely, when the soil is waterlogged in the cold and dark season. If spots appear on the leaves, fungal diseases are likely to develop. nine0003

The lower leaves often dry and fall off due to insufficient watering or poor lighting.

Why do fuchsias drop buds?

This is most likely the result of a violation of the irrigation regime - too much or too little water. Other possible reasons are very high or vice versa low air temperature and lack of light. Sometimes the buds fall off if the plant is moved to a new location or turned in relation to the light source.

Why does fuchsia wither?

This can happen if the plant is kept in a warm room in winter, as well as with a lack of water and nutrients, or if there is not enough light during the period of active growth. Another reason is overheating of the earthen coma.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Adult fuchsia does not bloom under unfavorable conditions. Analyze how your fuchsia lives. Surely establish the cause, take action, and fuchsia will bloom.

Sources

  1. Fuchsia // The Plant List http://www.theplantlist.org/1.1/browse/A/Onagraceae/Fuchsia/
  2. Laborer E.R. Fuchsia // M.: Kladez-Buks, 2006
  3. Bartlett G. Fuchsias // The Crowood Press Ltd, 2007
  4. Bartlett G. Fuchsias Step by Step to Growing Success // The Crowood Press Ltd, 1996
  5. Shvelidze C. Fuchsia. At the peak of fashion // M .: Fiton +, 2006
  6. Nicholass J. Fuchsias // Aquamarine, 2008
  7. Markina T. Fuchsia. Maintenance, breeding, care // M .: InterService, Presscom, 2004
  8. Dubrovskaya S. Fuchsia: development and care // Moscow: Ripol Classic, 2006
  9. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation
    https://mcx. gov.ru/ministry/departments/departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii- khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/

cultivation and care at home, reproduction, varieties with photo

The fuchsia plant (Fuchsia) is a member of the Cyprus family. This genus includes about a hundred species. In their natural environment, they live on the South American continent, but can also be found in Central America.

The name of the flower comes from the name of the botanist Fuchs, a German plant researcher who stood at the origins of botany. Growing fuchsia at home is not too difficult. Sometimes the plant is used to create small standard trees or serves as an ampelous planting. For successful cultivation of fuchsia, a cool wintering is required. nine0003

1 Description Transplanting

3.8 Pruning

3.9 Flowering

4 How to propagate fuchsia

4. 1 Growing from seed

4.2 Propagation from cuttings

5 Possible difficulties in growing

5.1 Flowering too quickly ends

5.2 Leaves

5.3 spots on leaves

5.4 Disruption of buds

9000 5.5 Pests

6 types and varieties of fuchsia with photos and names 9000 Fuchsia fulgens)

6.2 Bolivian Fuchsia (Fuchsia boliviana)

6.3 Magellanic Fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica)

6.4 Corymbiflora Fuchsia (Fuchsia corymbiflora)

Description of fuchsia

Fuchsia is a shrub or tree. Its leaves can be located opposite or be collected in whorls. Some species during the dormant period begin to shed their foliage. The shape of the leaf plates can be different, most often they are slightly elongated. The edges of the sheet may be serrated or smooth. The recognizable flowers of the plant can be painted in shades of white, pink, purple or red. They have a prominent tube-shaped calyx adorned with protruding stamens. Petals and calyx can be plain or painted in different colors and shades. nine0003

There are varieties with double flowers. A wide palette of fuchsia colors, including rather rare tones, gave the name to one of the shades of purple, as well as a chemical compound with a solution of a similar color - fuchsin.

It is known that growing in its homeland, fuchsia gives quite edible berries, which are quite difficult to obtain in room conditions. Often, dishes are decorated with flowers of this plant, by the way, edible.

Growing FUCHIA from A to Z! nine0003


Watch this video on YouTube

Brief rules for growing fuchsia

The table shows brief rules for caring for fuchsia at home.

Light level The flower needs a sufficient amount of bright light, but only diffused rays.
Temperature content During rest no more than 10 degrees, in the warm season - up to 24 degrees.
Watering mode When the plant begins to grow, it is watered as the topsoil dries out. Starting in autumn, the volume of moisture is reduced, but they try not to overdry the earth.
Humidity All summer the leaves can be moistened with a sprayer. This is done twice a day using lukewarm water. In autumn, you can moisten the plant every few days. In winter, the procedure is stopped.
Soil The optimum soil is a mixture of leafy soil, peat and sand. nine0469
Top dressings Twice a month from mid-spring to September, using a flower formulation.
Transplantation Transplantation is carried out immediately after pruning, every spring.
Pruning Only ampelous species are not pruned, the rest are pruned in the spring, at the very beginning of the growing season.
Flowering Flowering can last from spring to late autumn. nine0469
Dormant period The dormant period starts from the middle of autumn until the last days of January.
Propagation By cuttings, less often by seeds.
Pests Whiteflies and spider mites.
Diseases Diseases are caused by improper care, including spotting and various rot.

Home care for fuchsia

Due to its unpretentiousness and ease of care, fuchsia is ideal for beginner growers. All that is needed to ensure good growth and flowering is to follow simple growing rules. nine0003

Lighting

Fuchsia is best suited east or west. A flower needs a sufficient amount of bright light, but only diffused rays will suit it. In the morning or evening, even the direct sun will not bother fuchsia. On the south side, it must be shaded at noon. To do this, you can use a light-diffusing fabric or paper, or move the pot away from the window. On the north side, the plant will lack lighting, so the branches of the bush may stretch unnecessarily, and flowering will be weak. To avoid this, the bush can be illuminated with fitolamps. nine0003

In the summer, you can move the fuchsia to a balcony or other place with open air, but a similar procedure is carried out by gradually accustoming the plant to new conditions. Sometimes some plant varieties are even grown outdoors. A hardened flower is able to withstand frosts down to -10 degrees.

Fuchsia should not be disturbed during the budding period. The pot with it should not be moved or even turned - the plant will begin to shed buds, flowers or even foliage.

Temperature

During the development of fuchsia, a temperature of 18-24 degrees is suitable, but the plant does not like extreme heat. If the foliage of the bush drooped, the cause was probably not a lack of moisture, but overheating. In warm weather, you can keep fuchsia on the balcony, providing it with a corner, closed from the scorching sun and protected from rain and cold wind. If the flower stays at home, they try to air the room more often, but at the same time avoid drafts.

Fuchsia should winter in a cool place. The absence of such conditions will lead to dropping foliage and stretching the stems. A dark corner is considered optimal, where it keeps about 5-10 degrees. During this period, the bush will not need lighting and may shed some of the foliage. This allows you to keep a container with a plant in the basement or garage. nine0003

Watering mode

Well-settled, not cold water is suitable for watering fuchsia. From the beginning of spring to the first days of autumn, the flower is watered when the soil in the pot dries slightly. In autumn, the volume of watering begins to gradually decrease so that by the end of November it becomes very scarce. This allows the plant to prepare for wintering and promotes more lush flowering next season.

If fuchsia hibernates in a room where it stays less than 10 degrees, it is watered as rarely as possible - about several times a month. But in a warmer place, you should not completely reduce watering. You should also not completely dry out the clod of earth in a pot. nine0003

Humidity level

Fuchsia likes moderately high humidity and needs periodic spraying. For them, use water that has settled for at least a day. Since May, with the onset of heat, the plant is sprayed twice a day, trying to do this in the morning or during sunset so that water does not fall on the inflorescences. In the fall, you can do this only occasionally. In winter, spraying is not carried out at all.

Soil

Fuchsia is grown in slightly acidic soil, including leaf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1. You can add to the soil and peat chips. A layer of drainage must be laid at the bottom of the container (about 1/5 of the height of the pot). The pot itself should slightly exceed the old one in size. Ceramic containers are best suited for fuchsias. This material allows the flower not to overheat in the heat. nine0003

Top dressing

Fertilize fuchsia from mid-spring. Once every 2-3 weeks, it is fed with a liquid complex composition for flowering. You can use the foliar application method. Excess fertilizers (especially nitrogen) should not be allowed. In winter, top dressing is not required.

Transplanting

Transplanting fuchsia is undemanding: the flower should be transplanted when the pot becomes cramped. If the roots have begun to crawl out of the drainage hole, then there is not enough space for them and you need to take a larger pot. The plant is not demanding on the quality of the pot, it is selected in the same way as for other flowers, the main thing is that it has good drainage. nine0003

Fuchsia is transplanted at the very beginning of spring. Usually this procedure is combined with pruning. In addition to shortening the branches, you can also trim the roots a little.

After transplanting, the fuchsia bush is sprayed and watered abundantly, and then placed in a moderately bright place. If desired, you can transplant fuchsia twice, replacing the earthen mixture in the container. This is usually done in the middle of summer. About a month after transplantation, the plants are not fed.

Pruning

The bushes of the plant should be pruned regularly in spring. Fuchsia, which spent the winter in a warm room, during this period may lose foliage and stretch noticeably. Due to the fact that most of the buds will be formed on fresh young shoots, this procedure allows you to make flowering more abundant. Old bare branches of the plant are removed. As a rule, they are shortened by at least a third, or they try to remove everything to the rusty part. This will allow the bush to maintain a neater and more attractive shape. The only exceptions are ampelous fuchsias - such trimming of decorativeness will not add to them. nine0003

The stems left after pruning can be used as planting material as cuttings. You can prune fuchsia not only in spring, but throughout the entire growth period. When 3 pairs of leaves appear on fresh branches, they are pinched.

Fuchsia can be shaped like a tree. One of the stems of the plant is tied to a vertical support, continuing to remove side shoots from it until the required height is reached. Then the top of the bush is cut off. Up to 5 lateral stems will form on it, which will serve as the crown of a mini-"tree". In a few years, they will grow and make the plant look even more attractive. nine0003

Flowering

Proper care will allow fuchsia to bloom for a long time. The flowering period can last from late spring to November. After the bush fades, juicy fruits similar to berries can form on it. They are edible and are often used as a base for desserts. They are also used as a natural dye. But at home, the plant can be treated with chemicals, so it can be dangerous to eat the fruits of such fuchsia. nine0003

It takes about 2 months for the formation and growth of buds near the bush. At the same time, species with simple and not too large flowers bloom earlier than the others.

Fuchsia will not bloom without this


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For more abundant flowering, faded flowers should be regularly removed from the bush. The timely movement of the bush into the air will help to extend the process of bud formation until winter - this should be done in July. Over the summer, such a fuchsia needs to be cut a little about 3 times. nine0003

Methods of propagating fuchsia

Growing from seeds

In order for fuchsia to form seeds, it is necessary to artificially pollinate its flowers. Seed propagation does not transmit some of the characteristics of the mother plant, but allows you to create hybrids. To do this, pollinate different types of plants with flowers that differ in shape and color.

Seeds should be treated in a weak manganese solution and sown shallowly in a container with soil. Under glass or film shoots appear within a couple of months. After the formation of several pairs of true leaves, they dive. nine0003

Propagation by cuttings

Cuts about 5-7 cm in size are used as cuttings. They should have at least a couple of internodes. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, leaving only a few pieces (up to 4) on top. For rooting, they are placed in water or planted in wet sand. At a temperature of about +20, the process of root formation takes from a couple of weeks to a month. Young branches take root faster. After that, the cuttings are planted in separate pots about 9 cm in diameter. As a soil, a mixture of equal parts of sand, leafy soil, humus and turf is used. nine0003

To get more lush bushes, you can put several cuttings in one container. Similar fuchsias will bloom this year.

Cuttings can be carried out until the end of the growing season. But for slow-growing species, segments from the bush are taken not in spring, but at the very end of summer. Sometimes leaf cuttings are also used for propagation.

🌱 SUPER WAY OF FUCHIA BREEDING! PLANTING AND CARE OF THE CUTTINGS 🌱


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Possible growing difficulties

Poor ventilation of the room is considered one of the causes of problems with fuchsia. Lack of air movement can affect plant health. It is for this that a room with a flower is recommended to be ventilated more often or to transfer the pot to fresh air in the warm season.

Bloom ends too soon

A wave of bloom ends too soon can be caused by several factors. The first of them is insufficiently cool wintering and abundant watering during this period. Other reasons include lack of lighting during the growing season or lack of moisture and nutrients in the summer. An excess of nitrogen in the soil can also harm flowering - in this case, fuchsia may not bloom. The addition of phosphorus and potassium will help to correct the situation. nine0003

Sometimes the reason for the lack of flowering is too small a pot. In this case, the bush will need to be transplanted into a more suitable container.

Falling leaves

Falling leaves may be due to unfavorable plant conditions. The reasons may be too low lighting, improper watering, low humidity levels or excessively hot weather. If the fuchsia sheds its leaves in winter, it is likely that the bush is in too bright sun and needs to be removed from there. Untimely appearing buds during this period are pinched. nine0003

Leaf spot

Leaf spot may occur due to excessive watering in winter. If the foliage has turned pale, it is possible that the bush was planted in unsuitable or too poor soil.

Dropping buds

During bud formation and flowering, do not disturb the fuchsia bush - in this case, all flowers will fall off it. To avoid this, you do not need to move or twist the pot, or expose it to drafts.

Pests

Whiteflies and spider mites can settle on a fuchsia bush. The presence of the whitefly is manifested in the appearance of rusty spots on the leaf blades. Fuchsia can react to spider mites by dropping foliage. Such pests should be controlled with insecticidal preparations.

Types and varieties of fuchsia with photos and names

Brilliant fuchsia (Fuchsia fulgens)

Mexican species growing in the mountains. It forms tall bushes up to 2 meters in size and branches quite strongly. On bare branches are large leaves of an elongated or heart-shaped shape. There are notches on the edge of each leaf blade. The width of the leaf reaches 12 cm, and the length is about 20 cm. Hanging inflorescences-brushes are formed on the tops of the stems. They consist of reddish flowers with petals up to 10 cm long. The whisk is the same size. As it approaches the base, it narrows. Flowering continues throughout the summer. After it, fruits are formed on fuchsia - edible berries. nine0003

Bolivian fuchsia (Fuchsia boliviana)

The species lives not only in Bolivia, but also in the mountains of Argentina and Ecuador. Reaches a meter height. The foliage has a slight pointed tip and a finely serrated edge. The width of each plate reaches 6 cm, length - up to 15 cm. This fuchsia blooms until mid-spring. At this time, inflorescences-brushes are formed on it, located on the tops of the shoots. They have small red flowers.

Magellanic fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica)

Either Fuchsia discolor or Fuchsia conica. The size of such a shrub can be very impressive and reach up to 5 m in height. It has branches of a purple hue, covered with weak pubescence. Foliage can grow alternately on them or be collected in whorls of 3 plates each. The leaves have a serrated edge and crimson veins. The length of each leaf reaches 5 cm. Flowers are formed in the axils. They are collected in inflorescences of several pieces or arranged singly. The flowers have a reddish corolla and a purple calyx. Flowering begins in late spring and continues almost until autumn. nine0003

Fuchsia corymbiflora

The species lives in the mountainous regions of Ecuador and Peru. Forms large bushes up to 5 m tall. She has erect shoots. The foliage is oval and slightly hairy. The width of the leaf plate reaches 7 cm, the length is up to 17 cm. Each leaf has a reddish central vein. The flowers of this species combine purple petals with a scarlet calyx.


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