Pruning wisteria in summer
Wisteria: pruning / RHS Gardening
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Wisteria needs regular pruning to keep the growth and size under control, but it will also improve the flowering display. Although it seems complicated, wisteria pruning is quite simple if you follow our simple guide.
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Pruning wisteria in winter
Quick facts
Suitable for Wisteria
Timing Twice a year; in Jan-Feb and Jul-Aug
Difficulty Moderate
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- When to prune wisteria
- How to prune wisteria
- Other ways to train wisteria
- Problems
When to prune wisteria
Wisteria is pruned twice a year, in July or August, then again in January or February.
How to prune wisteria
Wisterias can be left to ramble unchecked where space allows but will usually flower more freely and regularly if pruned twice a year. The removal of growth in summer allows better air circulation and more sunlight to reach the base of the young growths, encouraging better ripening of the wood and improving the chances of flower bud formation. Restricting the amount of vegetative growth and encouraging short, flowering spurs will result in more flowers.
Summer pruning (July or August)
Cut back the whippy green shoots of the current year’s growth to five or six leaves after flowering in July or August.
This controls the size of the wisteria, preventing it getting into guttering and windows, and encourages it to form flower buds rather than green growth.
Winter pruning (January or February)
Then, cut back the same growths to two or three buds in January or February (when the plant is dormant and leafless) to tidy it up before the growing season starts and ensure the flowers will not be obscured by leaves.
Renovation or hard pruning
With older plants severe pruning may be needed to remove old, worn-out growths, or branches growing over windows or protruding outwards from the face of the building.
Likewise, hard pruning maybe required where maintenance needs to be carried out on the structure supporting the plant.
Drastically shortening back long branches, removing sections of older stems to just above a strong young branch or growth shoot lower down, or cutting completely back to a main branch, or even to ground level may be necessary. A careful, unhurried approach is needed if larger, thicker branches are to be removed and where a branch is twining it may be necessary to trace back and mark it at intervals with string before removing it. The end result should be a skeleton frame work of reasonably well-spaced branches.
Other points to consider when hard pruning;
- Hard pruning will stimulate strong, new growth so it is better to avoid feeding in the first spring after hard pruning
- If there are gaps in the framework suitably positioned new growths can be trained in to form replacement branches, with flowering usually resuming in two or three years’ time.
Often there is strong basal shoot growth - If unwanted for replacement branches they can be removed. Any such pruning can be done during the period from leaf fall to early February
- Other new growths can be pruned back summer and winter as for normal routine pruning
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Winter pruning: In January or February shorten summer-pruned shoots further. Cut them back to within 2.5–5cm (1–2in) of older wood, or 2 to 3 buds.
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Summer pruning: New shoots that are not needed or have grown in already crowded areas should be pruned. Cut them back to five or six leaves from the main branch, making the cut just above that leaf.
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Winter pruning: Long, whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning should also be pruned. Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch, making the cut just above a bud.
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Winter pruning: In January or February shorten summer-pruned shoots further.
Cut them back to within 2.5–5cm (1–2in) of older wood, or 2 to 3 buds.
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Summer pruning: New shoots that are not needed or have grown in already crowded areas should be pruned. Cut them back to five or six leaves from the main branch, making the cut just above that leaf.
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Winter pruning: Long, whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning should also be pruned. Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch, making the cut just above a bud.
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Other ways to train wisteria
On walls
The ideal way to grow wisteria against a wall is to train it as an espalier, with horizontal support wires (3mm galvanised steel) set 30cm (1ft) apart. Over time, and with pruning twice a year, plants will build up a strong spur system. Use new growths that develop near the base of plants as replacement shoots, if necessary, or cut out at their point of origin.
On pergolas and arches
Wisterias with long flower racemes are best admired on structures where they can hang free, unimpeded by branches or foliage.
For the best flowers, reduce the number of racemes by thinning out to give those that remain plenty of space to develop.
Growing into trees
Wisteria can be trained to grow up into the canopy of a small tree, but to the possible detriment of the tree. Growing into large trees can make pruning of the wisteria difficult, and flowering may be affected if the leaf canopy is dense. If you choose to grow into a tree, plant the wisteria on the south side of the tree, 1m (3ft) away from the trunk.
Training as standards
Standard wisterias can be grown either as specimens in a border, or in a large pot.
- Start with a young, single-stemmed plant, and insert a 1.2-1.5m (4-5ft) stout support next to it when you plant into the ground or container. This will be used to create the main stem of the ‘lollipop’
- If planting in a pot, John Innes No 3 potting compost is a good choice of compost. Make sure the wisteria is planted to the same depth as it was in its pot from the nursery, spreading out the roots and loosening the root ball before planting.
Choose a cheap container that is only slightly larger than the plant needs, potting it on gradually as it grows to fill its final display container - Train the stem vertically up the support (this is usually stronger than twining)
- Allow the plant’s leader to grow unchecked until it reaches the top of the support and then remove the tip in the following February to encourage the formation of sideshoots
- Prune the sideshoots the following winter, shortening them to 15-30cm (6in-1ft) and repeat this process each winter to gradually build up a head
- Weak or misplaced growth can be cut out entirely, as can older branches if the head becomes too dense in later years
- As the head develops, prune in August as well. Cut off above the seventh leaf any shoots that are not needed to extend the head
- The following February cut back these shoots to 2.5cm (1in) of their bases, just as you would routinely prune a wall-trained plant
Problems
See our page on frequently asked questions on wisteria problems.
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Promoting Wisteria Bloom, Part 2: A Three-Year Pruning Plan — Seattle's Favorite Garden Store Since 1924
Editor's Note: Welcome to part 2 of Promoting Wisteria Bloom. This article offers a three-year plan for pruning your wisteria for health, structure, and bloom, whether it is newly planted or already established. It therefore offers detailed, step-by-step information on intermediate and advanced pruning techniques.
Not everyone will want to tackle wisteria care at this level and that is okay! For general care guidelines and advice on helping your wisteria thrive and bloom, refer to Promoting Wisteria Bloom, Part 1.
Proper pruning can help you manage a wisteria and produce a truly spectacular flower show. At a minimum, pruning should be done twice a year: once around mid-summer (a few months after flowering) and again in late winter/early spring (before the plant leafs out).
Ideally, these two pruning sessions should be supplemented by routine thinning throughout the growing season to prevent congested growth and/or to continue training the plant along a structure. Doing this will not only make winter pruning a quicker operation but can help reveal wisteria’s beautifully gnarled and twisted trunks.
Wisteria Structure
Wisteria performs best with a clear basic structure. Think of this as the "armature" or framework from which flowering growth occurs.
Regardless of whether it has been espaliered, trained as a standard (a free-standing tree form), along a porch, over an arbor, or in any other form, the principles remain the same with only small nuances here and there.
And while it is easier to train a young plant, the rules remain the same for even ancient wisteria vines.
For the sake of this piece, I'll assume our hypothetical wisteria is espaliered against a wall, but these rules can be directly extrapolated to any other growing circumstance.
Deducing a vine's structure, as well as where it flowers and where it doesn't, will help reveal where to make cuts.
Primary leader: the primary leader is the main vertical element of the plant. Often, in older plants, the primary leader branches off to form several leaders.
Side shoots: any branch that grows from the leader. Some side shoots will be selected to become laterals; others should be removed as needed to minimize congestion.
Secondary branches (laterals): these are side shoots which grow from the leader and are tied in to create the strong secondary branches of the plant.
Tertiary laterals: side shoots that grow from the laterals.
Some of these develop into flowering spurs (short side shoots where flower buds typically develop).
Understanding the different bud shapes is also important: flowering buds are rounded and more swollen, whereas leaf buds are more narrow and pointed. In the picture below the larger buds are flower buds and the small, pointy buds are leaf buds.
Pruning: A Three-Year Plan
Year 1
Initial Pruning and Training
Once your wisteria is planted considering cutting the primary leader back to a strong leaf bud, roughly 3 feet from the ground. Next, remove any excessive side shoots to help stimulate the growth of a strong leader.
Tie in your new leader, then select some strong side shoots and tie them in at an appropriate angle (~45 degrees). These shoots will become your lateral branches. As they grow, cut them back to 3-4 leaf buds. This will encourage the formation of flowering spurs for future seasons.
Winter Pruning
No matter when you planted your wisteria, after its first full growing season, revisit your plant the next winter, when it is bare of leaves and flowers.
Ideally, choose a sunny or dry day (if we're lucky enough to have one!) to perform winter pruning.
Cut back the leader again to between 2-3 feet above the highest lateral branch.
Cut lateral branches back by about 1/3 to a strong leaf bud.
Cut tertiary side shoot back to encourage flowering spurs.
The first year can be frustrating; cutting back hard and keeping your new plant relatively diminutive can seem counter-intuitive. But this is absolutely essential to developing a strong framework and a good set of flowering spurs.
Year 2
Training Your Plant During the Growing Season
And now we're in year 2!
Continue tying and guiding your primary leader (it is OK to have two leaders if it makes sense for your situation). As your leader grows, select a second (and/or third) set of shoots to grow as lateral branches and tie them in roughly parallel to the first set of laterals from the previous season.
Removing Excessive Growth
At this point you may be seeing basal growth—young shoots exploding from the base.
Remove them immediately and continuously with a clean and flush cut against the trunk. If they are popping up near the base of the trunk directly, either lightly cut them with a spade or dig around them a little bit and cut beneath the soil surface.
Strong tertiary shoots growing from the lateral branches that may be growing quickly out of the structure you have created should also be removed.
Monitor the plant through the summer of Year 2 to keep unwanted growth at a minimum until you start to reach the allotted space for the plant.
Year 3
Once your plant is well established (from year 3 onwards), continue the practices outlined above.
In summer, about two months or so after flowering, cut back most of this year's side shoots to 5-6 buds.
In winter, cut these same branches back even farther to 2-3 buds of their base. This will help produce the coming season's flowers. You may also prune any leaders back by about a third if the wisteria has reached the desired height.
This helps to not only manage overall size, but helps to ensure that the wood stays strong and tidy instead of weak and sprawling.
Renovating an older, overgrown wisteria
If you're dealing with an older and overgrown wisteria, thin it out heavily in the summer but try to keep major cuts (around two-fingers-to-wrist width) to a minimum as these are best performed in the winter.
Wintertime is often the best time to inspect older and unmaintained specimens for structure and possibilities. Using the principles outlined above you can slowly train a wisteria back into a controlled and free-flowering form.
Note: Wisterias can withstand heavy renovation pruning but this may delay flowering for a year or two. Don't worry, your wisteria will eventually flower again.
If you're doing construction around a wisteria and have to remove it entirely, cut it at the base and avoid soil compaction around the trunk. Quite frequently new shoots will come up from the old root system if the plant was very vigorous.
Again, it will be some time before it begins flowering again, but the established root system can aid in a relatively quick recovery.
Wisteria can be a hugely rewarding plant capable of enormous presence in the garden, but it does require some work. However, as the years go on and you begin to keenly understand your plant’s structure, pruning will become quicker and more intuitive, and given wisteria's capacity for immense growth, the possibilities for training it into unique forms or over structures will create a real treasure in the garden to be enjoyed for years and years.
step-by-step instructions, aftercare and problems, as well as how often the procedure is required? Cottage expert
Wisteria or wisteria has always attracted gardeners with its beauty. The plant looks good in landscape design. In order for wisteria to please the eye, it must be cut correctly.
This article explains why this beautiful plant needs pruning, how often this procedure needs to be done and how it is done.
You will also learn how to care for wisteria and what to do if the tree starts to hurt.
Display content
- Why?
- How often and at what time of the year?
- Spring pruning step by step
For flowering
- How to care for the plant?
- What to do if the creeper disappears?
Why do you need it?
Timely pruning of the creeper will give it a presentable appearance . If this is not done, then the plant will lose its shape. It will grow, the flowers will no longer be so beautiful. It is recommended to shorten the shoots twice a year - in the summer and after the foliage has fallen. The presence of lateral uncircumcised shoots will become an obstacle to the growth of new flowers.
If you need to adjust the vine in a new way or give it a different shape, then this is not a problem, it will not give flowers for only one season, but then flowering will be restored.
Attention! If this procedure is carried out correctly, then the wisteria will grow for many years, without the need for rejuvenation.
How often and at what time of the year?
Regular pruning of the plant should start after 2-3 years of growth. First pruning at the end of summer , in August. Young growths are cut into 3-4 buds. This is the main pruning that stimulates abundant flowering in the spring (for more details on how wisteria blooms, and what to do when this does not happen, you can find out here).
The second pruning is carried out in the spring, this time frozen, dried or too thin shoots are removed. If necessary, summer pruned shoots are also shortened by another 2 buds. This pruning is repeated annually.
This procedure is not necessary in winter , but many gardeners advise it. The main shoot is shortened, the shoots cut off in the summer, which still have time to grow, and side shoots.
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We advise you to watch a detailed video about the summer pruning of wisteria:
Step-by-step instructions for pruning in spring
In spring, pruning wisteria is as follows:
- This is done at the end of spring, old shoots need to be cut 9012 into 9013 30 cm. only on last year's wood or on short shoots of the current year.
- After the release of wisteria from winter shelter, the growth of old branches is shortened by 2-3 buds.
We invite you to watch a video on how to prune wisteria in the spring:
For flowering
Next, we will tell you how to prune the plant in order to bloom. Pruning is carried out as follows:
- To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is selected, and the rest are removed.
- If it was originally planned to grow the vine as a climbing species, then it is necessary to remove abundantly growing lateral shoots. So wisteria will not spend its energy on overgrowing greens, but will direct all attention to the formation of buds.
- If the flowering of the plant is poor, then you can try to cut off part of the roots. This is done with a shovel at a depth of 30-40 cm and at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from the main trunk. The growth of the vine will be reduced, and the flowering will increase.
Attention! A creeper cut to the base may grow back but will not bloom for several years.
How to take care of the plant?
The plant does not require special care after cutting. It is only necessary to strengthen the usual actions that gardeners perform in relation to wisteria.
- Rough pruned branches must be treated with garden pitch or other means that accelerate wound healing. If this is not done, then the places of cuts contribute to the penetration of pests and the spread of diseases.
- Don't forget to water. It should be moderate, but the soil should be constantly moist. Such watering will be relevant from the beginning of spring to the end of summer. The plant does not tolerate drought well.
- If the spring is dry, there should be more water for irrigation, otherwise the vines will start to fall off the buds.
- When the budding and flowering period begins, fertilizers must be added to the soil. This is done once a week.
- The presence of sunlight is important for the plant, it should be on average 6-12 hours a day.
What to do if the vine disappears?
Both transplanting and pruning wisteria can stress the plant. Therefore, you can often hear the phrase that the liana began to disappear after these actions.
You can help wisteria in the following ways:
- You can use the antidepressant Epin (1 ampoule per 5 liters of water). Shoots of wisteria are sprayed.
- Shade the plant for a while, avoiding direct sunlight.
At the same time, regularly spray branches from a spray bottle in the morning.
Wisteria disappears very rarely after pruning even if most of the branches have been cut. This is a powerful plant that has good endurance to various kinds of shocks, so you only need to strengthen its care, and wisteria will recover (you can learn more about caring for room and garden wisteria here).
Pruning removes unnecessary twigs that prevent the wisteria from flowering well. The top of an adult plant is also cut off so that its growth does not go up. With each year of growth, wisteria requires different types of pruning, everything will depend on how quickly the growth of additional shoots occurs.
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How pruning of wisteria in autumn affects the development of a plant, why it is necessary and how to do it correctly
Bright colors in the backyard always give it a special touch of freshness.
For decoration, many plants are used in landscape design, among which wisteria occupies a special place, which is important to cut correctly, especially in autumn.
After all, with its help nondescript corners, structures and walls are masked. In order for the vine to create a dense green shield, annual pruning of wisteria in the fall is necessary.
Contents:
- 1 Ornamental varieties of wisteria
- 2 Basics of wisteria cultivation
- 3 Basic principles of pruning wisteria in autumn
Ornamental varieties of wisteria
Wisteria is a perennial vine. This plant develops rapidly, its aerial part can reach 10-12 meters in height already in the seventh year. Therefore, this garden culture is used for vertical decoration.
Lat. Wistéria
Particularly prized for its drooping bright flowering clusters. Their color depends on the variety. They can be white, cream, pink and purple. Blooming brushes exude a delicate fresh aroma.
The wisteria genus is represented by nine species. The following varieties are especially popular:
Chinese. Differs in high frost resistance. An adult plant reaches a height of up to 20 meters. The flowers are light, lilac.
The length of the inflorescences is 30-35 cm. Flowering begins almost immediately after the leaves bloom, and continues throughout the summer.
Profuse flowering. Differs in the large size of inflorescences. Blooms until early summer. The length of one brush can exceed 40 cm.
Color blue, pink, white. Ornamental varieties are also represented by a terry purple hue. Flowers bloom in stages, starting from the base of the inflorescence.
Bluemun. The advantage of this variety is high frost resistance. Withstands frosts down to -35 degrees without shelter. The flowers are collected in a brush 20 cm blue shade. The duration of flowering is the first decade of June.
Japanese. This variety is less resistant to low temperatures, but is valued for large inflorescences of a delicate white color.
It grows well in regions with a temperate and warm climate.
Regardless of the variety, wisteria can be grown using standard or trellis methods. The formation of the crown of wisteria is carried out using pruning.
Fundamentals of cultivation of wisteria
Almost all varieties of this crop are undemanding to growing conditions. Minimal care for wisteria and a properly selected place will allow you to grow a tree on your own without much difficulty.
Liana of this genus grows well in sunny areas and does not like gusty winds. The soil prefers light with good aeration and water permeability. You can not plant wisteria on calcareous soil.
Flowering wisteria
When growing wisteria, it is necessary to regularly water it:
Water it. Irrigation is carried out as needed. Throughout the vegetative period, the bush is watered abundantly in spring. During the summer, watering is regular, but moderate. Since September, the soil has not been moistened.
Feed. Nutrient complex compositions are applied in early spring and at the beginning of flowering.
Cut. It is necessary for the formation of new buds and giving a decorative shape. It is carried out using a wisteria pruning tool: a sharp pruner or garden shears. Cutting with a knife is not recommended. You will also need a stable ladder.
It is important to keep the near-stem area clean. Weeds and root cuttings are removed manually.
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In addition to pruning wisteria in autumn, timely top dressing contributes to the beauty of the plant. Since the culture belongs to legumes, it is important to carefully apply nitrogen-containing agents. The amount of such fertilizers should be minimal or they can be completely abandoned.
Since the plant does not like calcareous soils, fertilizers with ash or ash solution should also be avoided. During the period of active growth, the culture can be fed once every 15-20 days, unless otherwise provided by the instructions.
Then the flowering will be abundant and long-lasting. Top dressing is best combined with watering, so as not to burn the rhizome of the crop. Fertilizers should include potassium and phosphorus. This mode will provide maximum decorative effect of wisteria, although the liana can develop on fertile land even in conditions of rare fertilizers.
Most varieties are best covered during the cold winter months. Especially if the region of cultivation is northern. Young branches are most sensitive to frost. It is better to remove the wisteria from the supports and lay it on a previously laid out and fixed agrofibre.
Next, you can cover the crop with a few more layers of spunbond or use spruce branches. The older the plant, the less likely it is to freeze in winter or get crown damage from the cold.
Basic principles for pruning wisteria in autumn
How to prune wisteria? Regardless of the variety of wisteria, to maintain its lush flowering, it is necessary to prune the plant. Its method depends on the age of the shrub. There are general principles for autumn pruning of wisteria:
By following these principles, you can significantly improve the development of wisteria, increase the number of flowering buds and reduce the risk of infection by diseases and pests.
In order to grow a healthy, strong plant with dense foliage and lush flowering, wisteria needs the following pruning:
- Forming
- Supporting
- Sanitary
A wisteria tree can be fully formed in at least 3-4 years. To do this:
In the first year, the main shoot is determined and shortened by a third. The cut is carried out over a strong kidney. All side shoots are plucked, and the trunk is fixed in an upright position with a wooden support.
The main shoot is cut again at the level of the strong bud. Short upper side shoots are not removed. Located below - shortened by 2/3. At a height of 25-30 cm, all side branches are removed.
Delicate flowering of wisteria
Further, for two years, the fixation of the main shoot continues. A pair of strong shoots is also determined. They are tied at a 45 degree angle. At this stage, all the main shoots of the side branches are tied up and the side branches are shortened by a third.
When the tree is fully formed, when pruning in autumn, it is necessary to shorten new shoots by 2/3, and old ones by half. This will make the crown compact and branched.
Wisteria is a representative of vines, so shoots often appear under the tree. All young shoots under the crown are completely cut out. Also, maintenance pruning removes twigs that have sprouted below 30 cm on the trunk.
Sanitary pruning is necessary to prevent damage to wisteria by diseases and pests.
