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Prune flowering cherry tree


7 Simple Steps To Prune Your Flowering Cherry Tree

Is your flowering cherry tree looking like it woke up with a severe case of bed head? Well, it may be time to break out the pruning shears. What are the best ways to prune your flowering cherry tree?

Properly pruning flowering cherry trees encourages flowering and fresh growth. It also removes dead branches and abnormalities. You should prune your flowering cherry tree in the late winter, early spring, or immediately after blooming using pruning sheers while removing any damaged branches.

Keep reading to learn the best ways to prune your flowering cherry trees, and when to manage this task. Even if you have no experience in trimming trees, you will have the confidence and know-how to trim your flowering cherry tree and keep it healthy for many years to come.

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Why Do Flowering Cherry Trees Need Pruning?

Ornamental trees like the flowering cherry need regular maintenance to remain healthy, encourage new growth and allow the beautiful blooms to greet you with bright vitality every spring. Without proper pruning, the tree can overcrowd itself, branches can rub across each other, leaving open wounds. This can make it look rather unattractive in your yard. 

The blossoms are quite beautiful, and they may bring a pleasant scent to your garden.

Some trees, like the flowering cherry tree, also have dense growth patterns and, left alone, will become too dense to be properly healthy. Pruning once a year will thin them out and help to reduce the possibility of fungal growth because of the increased sunlight and airflow between branches and foliage. 

If you are looking into different types of ornamental, or mock, cherry trees, you can find information here in our article about the types of mock cherry trees and where they grow!

Pruning Keeps The Tree Healthy

Regular pruning on your flowering cherry tree will extend the life of your tree by keeping it healthy. Removing dead and afflicted branches allows the tree to grow stronger because it spends less energy on problem areas. Pruning also eases overcrowding of branches and removes branches rubbing across each other, which could cause problems later on. 

When you prune and trim your tree properly, it keeps the canopy—the top, the foliage-covered section of the tree—open and able to get plenty of airflow and sunlight. This helps make the foliage and flowers resist fungal growth as the airflow removes more of the problematic spores.

Regular pruning also removes weaker branches, which could break off and open the tree up to pests and infections. 

Overgrown and improperly maintained trees can become weak and unhealthy. If the branches and foliage of the tree are too dense, this can weaken the tree. Dead branches can accumulate and cause more problems as well.

Not to mention, when a tree is not pruned properly, it just makes the tree look bad and unattractive.   

Pruning Is Preventative Maintenance

Pruning your trees also lets you see and remove potential problems before they can manifest into bigger issues. When you are pruning your trees, you can see if there is something wrong with them, almost like your yearly checkup at the doctor. 

Sometimes rubbing branches can open up the bark and expose the inside of the tree, leaving the area weak and susceptible to infections. While pruning, you will notice little signs such as weakness, pests capable of harming the tree, or infections you need to remove before the tree needs professional care.  

Proper Pruning Does Not Harm The Tree

When you perform regular, proper pruning, it helps to strengthen the tree. Pruning removes afflicted and infected branches and leaves, leaving energy for the tree to focus on regular growth, making the tree stronger and healthier.

Trees can heal themselves faster after a proper trimming. If pruning is not maintained, branches can break off, leaving hard to heal wounds that open up the tree for infections and pests. It’s just like if we get a cut and do not treat it properly, it takes longer to heal, and can cause bigger problems later on. 

Pruning Makes The Tree More Attractive

Trees in the forest, growing wild, with branches all over the place, moss creeping up the trunk and dripping off the branches, have a certain rugged appeal. However, most people do not want a wild, unruly-looking mess in their front yards or gardens.

You bought a flowering cherry tree to show off the beautiful blooms, attractive bark on the trunk, and the appealing shape of the canopy. By following this guide, you can keep your tree appealing and attractive.

When you do not trim your flowering cherry tree, it can quickly start to look unkempt, and be a big eyesore compared to the neatly trimmed hedges and lush carpet of maintained grass. Pruning your tree keeps the attractive shape, encourages more blooms, and healthy, full foliage, adding to the overall appeal to your yard.

When Should You Prune A Flowering Cherry Tree?

Now you know why a flowering cherry tree needs to be pruned, so let’s get into the proper times you should trim your tree. Yes, there are certain times when it is beneficial to trim your tree, and others when it is not advised. 

If you prune your trees at improper times, you could do more harm than good. It may send your tree into shock, effectively showing down growth for a season, and causing it to look sickly. Trees have growing stages. In the winter they lay dormant, and grow little, if at all, while in fall they are trying to store up energy for the long, cold winter. 

Not all trees are the same, and you can prune some during dormant stages without harm, but in this article, we are only focusing on flowering cherry trees. If you have questions about when or how much you can prune other trees on your property, please consult a professional arborist or tree specialist to answer your questions.  

Below we will go over the best times for pruning your flowering cherry trees are.

Trim Cherry Trees In Late Winter Or Early Spring

Do not start the pruning on your flowering cherry tree in late fall or early winter because the tree is trying to store up energy for the long dormant season. It will not have the proper time or energy to seal off the open cuts made from pruning.

Wait until late winter or early spring for your area to do most of your cherry tree pruning because the tree is about to exit the dormant stage and it will be more able to heal itself where the branches were cut. The tree will have plenty of energy to deal with the pruning at this time of the growth period. This is also the time for your heavier pruning. 

During late winter or early spring, pruning will be easier because all the foliage is gone, and you can see the branches better. There will not be a thick canopy of leaves getting in the way and blocking the view. You can better see if branches are rubbing on each other, where the dead wood is, and if there are any unhealthy areas you need to remove. 

Trim Immediately After Blooming

You can also start your pruning after the cherry tree has finished blooming to help promote new growth and production of more flowers next year. Do not wait long after the blooms have fallen, though. Trim immediately after blooming, or wait until next season.

During this time, keep the pruning light. Just trim off smaller branches to promote better growth and accentuate the shape of the tree you are looking for. Leave larger branches and heavier trimming for late winter or early spring. 

How To Prune Your Flowering Cherry Tree Properly

First off you want to stand back to get a good feel for your tree and notice the natural growth patterns. Does it droop down like an umbrella, does it grow upward toward the sun, or does it bush out in an oval or circular pattern? Contour your tree to the natural shape it takes on.

This also helps you to formulate a plan for pruning your tree. 

Make sure you have time to step back and look at the progress after each cut. It pays to be methodical, or you could end up with a lopsided tree that has lost all its beautiful appeal.

1. Remove Unhealthy Branches

When cutting back the branches or removing unhealthy branches, cut them back to a healthy part of the tree. Do not leave a long piece of stub sticking out, as this could cause the branch to continue rotting. Cut it back to a healthy side shoot, as this will promote the section to grow stronger.

If you have to remove an entire branch, you want to cut it just above the branch collar. The branch collar is where the bark around the bottom of the branch looks wrinkled up. You want to cut straight as possible just above the branch collar to help the tree heal itself faster.

Cuts need to be straight, clean, and cut with a properly sized tool. If the cut is frayed, crushed, or the branch splits while cutting, get a larger tool and cut it again. 

Hand shears are for branches only about the width of a pencil to ½ of an inch. Loppers will cut branches up to 1½ inches thick, whereas the saw will cut larger branches. 

If a branch breaks during the cut, clean it up and make the cut as clean as possible, so it is easier for the tree to heal itself.

2. Do Not “Top” Your Tree

“Topping” a tree refers to cutting nearly all the growth off a tree to shorten the height or restrict its growth. This practice will severely shorten the life of a tree and opens it up to a host of problems it may never recover from. 

Topping a tree is really never a good idea. It removes the main leader and branches, which can leave the tree wounded and unable to heal properly. This practice can also shorten the life of the tree greatly.

3. Remove Any Dead Branches

Now that you are ready to trim, look for any dead, or damaged growth on your flowering cherry tree and remove those first. Once all the undesirable branches are gone from the tree, again step back from the tree to see what it looks like now. 

It’s easy to start trimming, get into the “zone” and then realize you may have gotten a little overzealous. Now it looks like the Charlie Brown Christmas tree. 

4. Clean Out The Tree’s Canopy

Next, you want to clear the clutter and open up the canopy. You are not looking to cut the top completely off, but you want the tree opened up. This is so air can easily circulate through the fully leafed-out branches. 

A good rule of thumb here is to be able to see patches of sky through the canopy of your flowering cherry tree. Opening it up like this also allows sunlight to penetrate the inner and lower branches and leaves. This helps the tree grow stronger, healthier, and produce more food for itself. 

Again, after each cut, stand back and look at the tree and plan your next section to trim. There is no rush! You would not rush a fine painting, so do not rush the trimming of your tree either.  

5. Remove Undesirable Branches

Look out for branches crossing or rubbing on each other. Rubbing branches can open up wounds and expose the tree to afflictions. Cut one of these branches off to prevent further problems. 

The same goes for branches crossing each other. They may not be causing a problem now, but during a growing season, the branches could start rubbing or even start growing into each other. 

Other branches to look out for are branches shooting straight up, or water sprouts. The problem with water sprouts is they typically grow faster than other branches on the tree and can break off easily with gusts of wind. Remove any water sprouts you see. 

Any branches of the flowering cherry tree growing toward the inside of the tree or other branches need to be removed next. These types of branches will only cause problems, and it is best to trim them off before they can. 

You want to be left with branches growing outward in uniform patterns. They need to be relatively evenly spaced, neat, and open enough to allow plenty of airflow. 

6.

Trim Any Suckers

Suckers are small branches at the bottom of the tree along with its root system. These suckers do exactly as they are called—they suck energy from the rest of the tree. They are an attempt to grow more branches.

However, the problem, aside from usually looking unattractive, is they take a lot of energy and slow the growth of the rest of the tree. 

Remove these suckers from the base of the tree and any other branches along the trunk to keep the attractive allure of your flowering cherry. 

7.

Step Back And Take Another Look

Now that you have trimmed the canopy, removed any dead, broken, or abnormal-looking branches, and cleared away any suckers at the base of your tree, how does it look? Is it looking lean and healthy?

Trim off any small growth growing outside of the natural habit of the tree. You want to shape it now to make it look more attractive and uniform. This part of the pruning should be light and only to accentuate the tree because you have done all the heavy pruning before this step.

If your tree looks pleasing and you are happy with the look, congratulations, you have successfully trimmed your flowering cherry tree! Now all you need to do is clean up the trimmed branches and clean and disinfect your tools for later use. 

What Tools Do You Need For Cherry Tree Pruning?

Before you hack away at your cherry tree, make sure you have the proper equipment. You will need:

The THANOS A1101 Extendable Anvil Loppers are a great option if you are looking for tools to prune your larger trees. They can easily chop through branches 2 inches in diameter. It can also be adjusted to lengths between 27 and 40 inches to fit your needs.

If you already have these tools in your shed or garage and have been using them, make sure you clean and disinfect them before trimming your ornamental cherry. You can use a 70% rubbing alcohol to clean the cutting surfaces of these tools.

Disinfecting your blades before using them will prevent cross-contamination between trees and other plants. Once the tools are clean and disinfected, do not forget to oil them to prevent rust. 

If you are still uncomfortable about pruning your tree, or if it is very tall and you are not completely comfortable on a ladder, then consult a professional in your area. Make sure they have experience with ornamental trees and will not just lop all the branches off.

Wound Paints Are Not Needed

In the gardening section of your local hardware store, there are undoubtedly plenty of tree stump sealants, or wound paints claiming to help promote the health and vitality of trees after trimming them. Maybe you have seen the black or white telltale markings on trees after they have been trimmed, but you do not need these.

They come in convenient spray cans and tell claim you need the product, but a tree is better off taking care of its own wounds. Trees have their own arsenal to deal with pruning wounds. If pruning is done at the proper time, then it does not harm the tree and they can heal themselves easily.

The article, Caring for Cherry Trees in Washington DC by the National Park Service, says they no longer use wound paints for cherry trees! Wound paints are no longer seen as an effective way to prevent or reduce decay, or insect infestations on flowering cherry trees.

  

There You Have It!

Flowering cherry trees are a beautiful addition to your yard or garden and, with a little maintenance, they will continue to grace your space with years of beauty.  

As you have read, proper pruning during the correct time is beneficial for a tree’s overall longevity. Pruning keeps the tree strong, growing better, encourages more blooms and foliage, and is necessary for the extended life of a tree.

Here are the 7 simple steps to prune your flowering cherry tree:

  1. Remove unhealthy branches
  2. Do not “top” your tree
  3. Remove and dead branches
  4. Clean out the tree’s canopy
  5. Remove undesirable branches
  6. Trim and suckers
  7. Step back and take another look

Pruning your flowering cherry trees need not be a daunting or monumental task. With the right tools, a small dose of know-how, and a little elbow grease, you can trim them yourself and, keep your outdoor investment growing beautifully for many years.

References:

Guimond, C. M., Lang, G. A., & Andrews, P. K. (1998). Timing and Severity of Summer Pruning Affects Flower Initiation and Shoot Regrowth in Sweet Cherry.  HortScience, 33(4), 647–649.

Douglas, S. (2001, August). Pruning: An introduction to why, how, and when. CT.gov – Connecticut’s Official State Website. https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Plant-Science-Day/2001/Pruning

How to Prune a Flowering Cherry | Home Guides

By Susan Patterson Updated December 14, 2018

Proper pruning techniques help to keep trees healthy and attractive. Pruning a cherry tree encourages blooming, removes undesirable growth, removes dead and diseased branches and shapes the tree. Examine your flowering cherry tree each year and trim according to need. Unpruned trees may become overgrown and weak. Pruning a cherry tree is a straightforward task that requires no previous pruning knowledge, only the right tools and a little time. Pruning is best done immediately after the tree flowers.

  1. 1.

    Wipe dirt and debris from pruning tools using a clean rag.

  2. 2.

    Soak pruning tools in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water for five minutes. Allow the tools to air dry. This will sterilize them so that they do not transmit any pathogens.

  3. 3.

    Assemble your clean and sharp pruning tools. Use hand shears to remove branches that are less than 1/2 inch in diameter, anvil clippers to remove dead limbs that are less than 1/4 inch in diameter and loppers to trim branches that are 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. If necessary, use a pruning saw to cut branches that are 1 1/2 inches and larger in diameter.

  4. 4.

    Prune cherry trees immediately after blooming to promote new growth and flower display. Trimming should be light at this time.

  5. 5.

    Cut suckers from around the bottom of the tree.

  6. 6.

    Thin any branches that are outside of the desired shape. Make all cuts back to the branch collar.

  7. 7.

    Prune flowering cherries more aggressively during the dormant season. Pruning at this time is for shape and size.

  8. 8.

    Step back from the tree and assess the tree's natural shape. Formulate a pruning plan.

  9. 9.

    Remove all broken, diseased or dead limbs. Make cuts back to the branch collar being very careful not to damage the collar or the bark around the pruning cut. Be very careful not to leave a stub as this will interfere with healing.

  10. 10.

    Remove branches that cross over each other or rub against each other.

  11. 11.

    Shorten branches using heading cuts. Make the cuts 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud. If you leave the inward facing buds on the tree it will cause crowding towards the center of the tree which will limit air circulation and light penetration.

  12. 12.

    Thin selected branches back to the main trunk to allow light and air to penetrate the tree. Make cuts back to the branch collar, being careful not to damage surrounding bark or the collar.

    Things You Will Need

    • Hand shears

    • Anvil clippers

    • Loppers

    • Pruning saw

    • Clean cloth

    • Bleach

    • Bucket

    Tip

    Keep all equipment sharp and in excellent working order. Remove and discard all pruned limbs.

    Warning

    Use the correct tools for the size of limb that you are cutting. Use caution when working with sharp pruning tools.

References

Writer Bio

Susan Patterson is a health and gardening advocate. She is a Master Gardener, Certified Metabolic Typing Advisor and a Certified Health Coach with vast experience working with organic gardening and nutrition. Her passions include sustainable living, organic foods and functional fitness. Patterson has been writing and presenting on health and gardening topics for 10 years.

How to prune cherries and when to prune

Pruning cherries is a subject of controversy for many gardeners. Beginners do not dare to cut branches, fearing that in this way they will significantly reduce the number of fruits. More experienced gardeners consider such an activity useless and even harmful, because it weakens the tree, and its strength is spent on "licking the wounds." Although in the vast majority of cases, the main reason is banal ignorance of how to work correctly.

Contents

What you need to know before the procedure

Few people manage to avoid common mistakes in this painstaking process. Therefore, many gardeners simply prefer to leave the tree alone until it brings at least some kind of harvest.

But regular thinning of the crown and removal of unnecessary branches brings many benefits:

Destruction of old diseased branches provides additional protection of cherries from pests

If you are just starting to grow cherries, first of all you will need to understand the process of their flowering and fruiting in order to understand why cherry pruning is necessary and how it should be done for the benefit of the tree.

Before you start pruning, you must learn to distinguish between vegetative branches (from which new branches grow), bouquet branches (characteristic of tree-like cherries) and increments (twigs that appear annually from the upper buds) in order to be aware of which the branch you are about to cut.

Be sure to consider what kind of cherry grows on your site - tree-like or bushy ? The first option is characterized by the location of berries on annual growths and on bouquet twigs that bear fruit for several years, and in cherries of the second type, fruitful twigs are always annual. Due to the peculiarities of crown formation and fruiting, pruning of bush cherries and tree cherries has some differences.

pruning of cherries and plums, as well as other stone fruits, should begin at a young age and be annual

Pruning technology for young cherries

Pruning of cherries and plums, as well as other stone fruits, should be started at a young age and be annual, as these trees grow very quickly, thickening the crown. As a result, the fruits become smaller, the yield decreases, the trees themselves weaken.

It is better to do this before the buds appear, so that the tree has time to get stronger during active growth and flowering.

Having planted a cherry seedling, five of the most developed and strong branches are left in it (up to ten branches are allowed for bushy ones), the rest are removed without leaving a stump, and the wounds are immediately covered with garden pitch. It is desirable that the branches left be directed in different directions and located at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other. This is the first post-plant pruning of the cherry so that other branches do not take the growth force from the main branches.

It is better to prune cherries before buds appear on the tree

Basic rules of work:

When growing tree-like cherries, preference is given to a sparse-tiered system, or a combination. But you can form a crown of cherries, both bushy and treelike, according to any system adopted in gardening.

Most importantly, do not forget that this is a responsible matter, because you are laying down the direction and nature of the tree's growth, which will subsequently affect the fruiting and development of cherries.

Pruning of cherries and plums, like other stone fruits, should start at a young age

Differences in work on tree and bush cherries

half or a third of the length of the shoot. It is also necessary to shorten semi-skeletal and skeletal branches to dormant buds, or to well-developed lateral branches growing upwards. It is better to start shortening skeletal branches one year, and semi-skeletal ones the next year, so that the tree has enough strength to bear fruit. Just do not remove the annual growths that appear as a result of such manipulations.

In bush cherries, annual pagons should not be cut, as shoots grow in length from the upper bud, and if it is removed, the branch may dry out.

Tree cherries produce a good harvest provided they have an annual increase that can be stimulated if done right. Otherwise, the bouquet branches become less and less over time, which means that the fruiting is also reduced. Proper pruning of tree-like cherries consists in slightly shortening annual shoots in order to obtain a sufficient number of lateral branches and new bouquet branches, on which fruits will then appear.

Proper pruning of arborescent cherries consists in slightly shortening one-year shoots

Tips for working with arborescent cherries:

Tip! Don't delete too many branches at once. If you have started the tree and haven't cut it, it's best to do it in several steps. After that, new branches almost always begin to grow, keep an eye on them and prune if necessary.

Although it will take you extra time to annually remove old branches and new growths, but soon you will notice how much better the cherry on your site has begun to grow and bear fruit. Having convinced yourself from your own experience of the benefits of such manipulations, you can easily answer the common question yourself: do you need to trim the cherry, and what does it give?

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tips for beginners, and features of plant rejuvenation, diagrams and videos

Spring is the best time to prune cherries. This culture can be formed by analogy with a tree or in the form of a bush. In any case, thinning and removal of dry branches are necessary. In addition, by pruning, you can give old cherries youth and extend their life on your site.

Contents

Why cherries should be pruned in spring

Cherry differs from other fruit and berry crops in its high capriciousness:

  1. It is subject to serious diseases - moniliosis and coccomycosis.
  2. Many varieties grow long and thin branches hanging down, with buds only at the tips.
  3. The thinnest branches almost always freeze in severe winters.

In any of the three cases, a lot of "empty" shoots are formed on the cherry, that is, without buds at all, with a small number of them, or with buds, but dead, which will not wake up in the spring. And only when the tree wakes up, you can accurately determine which branches are alive and which need to be cut.

For an inexperienced and inattentive gardener, it is better to prune cherries during bud break

Followed the recommendations: cut trees before bud break. Everything went well on the apple and pear trees. The trees blossomed and pleased with the harvest in the summer. But with cherry, the opposite happened. I cut out all the extra branches, in my opinion, so that the crown was sparse and beautiful. And when leaves and buds began to appear, I saw that almost half of the branches left were dry, the buds did not wake up on them. As a result, I had to cut the already rare cherry again. There is almost nothing left of my cherries.

Only a keen and experienced eye can recognize viable ones among the numerous still dormant branches. You won’t break each branch, look at whether the bark is wrinkled, or pick it everywhere to determine if there is a green layer there. Therefore, I now do cherry pruning at the beginning of bud break, when it is already clearly visible: which branches have overwintered and are ready to grow. And I also agree with the opinion that sometimes it is enough to remove dry branches for pruning cherries, which are always in abundance on it. The crown will become less thickened, it remains only to tweak a little. If you take my experience into service, then do the pruning carefully so as not to damage the already swollen buds: pull the cut branches out of the crown carefully, and cut the large and clumsy ones into pieces.

Video: cherry pruning master class from an agronomist

Cherry pruning in spring

Spring pruning of cherries can be divided into:

Moreover, it is necessary to perform pruning in this sequence, since after cutting out dry shoots, thinning is often no longer necessary. And the crown has to be formed from what is left, that is, from healthy and well-placed branches.

Rules for Sanitary and Thinning Pruning

Once the buds begin to open, you will clearly see what needs to be removed as part of the Sanitary Pruning:

  1. Bare branches without leaves or buds.

    There are a lot of bare branches on the cherry, they need to be cut out

  2. Shoots that have buds only at the tips.

    Such unproductive shoots may grow long and hang down; cut them whole from the trunk

  3. Branches that prevent you from walking freely past the cherries hanging over the paths. Sooner or later, you will still break them and inflict more severe wounds on the tree than when pruning. Worse, you can injure yourself on protruding branches.

    If branches get in the way, shorten them

Thinning pruning is more difficult because it has more rules. Cut branches:

will continue to grow outward rather than inward. This rule is true for all trees, but cherries have a nuance: not all of its growth buds and sprouts, so if possible, make a cut not over a bud, but over an existing branch.

Shorten cherry branches by cutting above the branch, and if there is none, then above the outer bud

When removing the whole branch, cut it into a ring. To do this, firmly press the pruner blades to the trunk, do not step back from it.

Ring cutting technique: blades pressed against the trunk

If you leave a stump, whole bouquets of shoots will start to grow from its base. This is how tops are formed, that is, fattening branches. They are always directed vertically, often compete with the conductor and greatly thicken the crown. It turns out that by incorrect pruning you add work to yourself - you also remove numerous tops.

Spinning tops have grown on old cherries

Spinning tops are more likely to grow on old cherries. You can cut down your old branch, and leave one of the young shoots to replace it. This pruning is called anti-aging.

Cover all sections thicker than 1 cm with pitch, paint or garden mastic.

Pruning young tree-like cherries

Cherries are formed before 5-6 years of age, because many main branches coming from the trunk will have to be cut. On older trees, they are already thick, the wounds will be significant. This will lead to gum disease, fungal diseases, reduced yields and other troubles up to death.

What a mature tree cherry should look like:

  1. Stem 50–60 cm high, i.e. there should be no shoots up to this level.
  2. The total number of skeletal branches is 10–15.
  3. Skeletal branches arranged in tiers, 2–3 in each, directed in different directions.
  4. The distance between the tiers is 25–30 cm.
  5. On the skeletal branches, on both sides, there are branches of the second order with a gap of 20 cm between them.

Approximate scheme for the formation of a cherry tree

It takes about five years to form such a tree. Every year the tree becomes taller, branches grow on it, from which you can form the next tier. The task of spring pruning is to create or maintain such a tree shape.

Video: Principles for Pruning Cherries by Type of Tree

For side branching by 1/4–1/3, shorten only strong annual growths at least 40–50 cm long. Such strong shoots have both growth and fruit buds. On short growths, there is only one growth bud - at the very top. If you shorten such a shoot, it will bear fruit and die. There will be no growth in length, no lateral branching. Annual growths differ from perennial branches in the color of the bark. It is brighter and more lustrous.

The length of one-year growth is the distance from the top of the shoot to the point where the bark changes color to a paler, matte color

Pruning bush cherries

Rooting sour cherries are usually grown as a bush. It can consist of 2-3 trunks, be with or without a trunk. Each trunk is formed according to the principle of a tree, but the main (skeletal) branches should be 8-10. There will be fewer tiers, because bush cherries are lower than tree-like ones.

I like to shape my cherries in a bush way. First of all, I raise my hand with a pruner and cut off all the tops at a height that I reach. I don't need berries that I can't pick without a ladder or tilting the trunk. Then I do sanitary and thinning pruning, as described above. Each bush I have consists of three trunks. If one is outdated, then I grow a new one from the shoots to replace it.

Video: pruning a cherry bush from three stems

Rejuvenating pruning

Old, long-formed cherries in spring, in addition to thinning and sanitary pruning, also need rejuvenating pruning. After about 10–15 years of fruiting, the yield decreases, the branches give short growths, the trunks are covered with lichens and cracks. So, it's time to do a rejuvenating pruning. Bush cherries are very easy to rejuvenate. You cut out the old stem, and leave a new one from the growth to replace it. You can generally cut off the entire bush at ground level, leaving the root offspring, and grow a new cherry out of them. With tree-like varieties that do not give shoots, everything is more complicated. There are several ways:

  1. Cut off the top of the trunk at a height of 2.5–3.5 meters from the ground. Down the trunk, dormant buds are activated and give side shoots. From them, you can form new skeletal branches. Leave the most powerful and well-placed. In the meantime, they are growing, cut out the old ones 1-2 per year on the ring.

    If you cut off the top, the cherry will begin to actively grow with young branches

  2. Form a new skeleton from tops. To provoke their growth, make cuts on a stump in several places of the crown.

    Well-placed spinning tops can form not only new skeletal branches, but also a trunk.

    Learn more