Pond building tips
15 Garden Pond Building Tips
By
Lee Wallender
Lee Wallender
Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for over 13 years.
Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process
Updated on 01/12/22
BasicB / Getty Images
A garden pond adds beauty, elegance, and lively interest to a yard. Whether a fish pond, a receiving basin for a waterfall, or simply a placid body of water for meditation and reflection, a garden pond provides a focal point that enhances nearly all yards.
To successfully create a garden pond that looks natural, it helps to follow a few basic guidelines to make the building go smoother, and for easier continued maintenance of the pond.
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01 of 15
Level the Garden Pond Perimeter to Close Tolerances
When digging the hole for the garden pond, remember that a garden pond's water level is only as high as the lowest point of the pond perimeter.
In other words, the entire perimeter of the garden pond needs to be as near to the same height as possible.
This might be a point that seems obvious from afar, but when you are digging the pond it can often escape attention. Since an exact level is not possible, think in terms of deviation and tolerances.
For example, if your chosen pond depth is 24 inches, the perimeter's deviation from that height should be as little as possible: just an inch or two.
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02 of 15
Decide Whether the Pond Will Be Shallow or Deep
The depth of the garden pond is an important decision that affects both the cost and the eventual appearance of the pond.
As the pond gets deeper, the bottom becomes less visible and rock cannot be seen. Fish might tuck themselves away, hidden. Deeper ponds also require the use of additional expensive pond liners.
Shallow ponds are better for displaying decorative rocks on the bottom and fish are more prominent.
But shallow ponds tend to build up algae faster because the light can reach more of the water with greater intensity. -
03 of 15
Protect the Pond Bottom Against Burrowing Animals
Burrowing pests such as groundhogs and moles can dig up holes in a lawn and garden. When you have a burrowing animal in your yard, it seems like you're always filling in holes.
But the problem goes well past the point of annoying when the burrowing animal exits under your garden pond, chewing away the pond liner in the process.
The solution is to lay down a metal mesh called hardware cloth as a base for your pond bottom before shoveling a few inches of dirt over it. Then underlayment and liner go on top of the dirt layer. If your sides are dirt, not retaining wall block, then you should lay hardware cloth on the sides, too.
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04 of 15
Reconcile Eventual Pond Size With Pond Liner Size
A garden pond can only be as large as the size of its underlying pond liner.
So, long before any shovel meets the dirt, you'll need to figure out how big the pond should be, in conjunction with the size and price of the pond liner. Quality pond liners made of ethylene propylene diene terpolymer (EPDM) are very expensive. PVC liners are expensive but less so than EPDM.
In a project that involves the use of free or low-cost materials such as rock, concrete slabs, retaining wall blocks, and the lowest cost item of all, water, spending hundreds of dollars for a sheet of the liner can seem like a major purchase.
If your budget is tight, then the cost of the pond liner will always dictate the size of the pond. On the other hand, you might find that it is worthwhile to put a little extra money into a high-visibility, curb appeal project such as this.
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05 of 15
Early Shape Nuances Are Often Lost
When you initially create the shape of the pond, you may find yourself adding special curves and inlets that you feel will give the garden pond a unique look.
But these early delicate nuances often get softened and obliterated with each subsequent stage of the pond-building process. Adding underlayment, liner, rocks at the bottom of the pond, and especially rocks along the bank of the pond all contribute to this softening process. Think in terms of basic shapes.
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06 of 15
Add a Top Spillover Drain in the Design
Unless you live in a parched, arid climate, your pond will inevitably overflow. Yet even in dry areas, this can happen when you are filling with the hose and let the time slip away. Rather than having the pond spill over and race toward your house foundation, create a predictable spillover point so that water can go to a safe spot.
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07 of 15
Avoid Tall, Vertical Garden Pond Walls
The more vertical and tall the walls of the garden pond, the harder the job you will have when you apply stone to the pond. Loose, natural stones are difficult to stack vertically.
Not only does the rock tend to fall, but a greater amount of rocks or larger rocks are also needed to cover this area. Small rocks are less expensive but hard to stack. Large rocks cover vertical spaces easier but are costly and difficult to move. Try to keep the garden pond banks at a 45-degree angle or less, if possible.
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08 of 15
Install a Permanent External Water Filter and Skimmer
Unless you make provisions for a permanent water filter mounted in your pond's wall, your only options for filtration will be manual skimming or floating filtration devices.
Hand skimming is a constant job while floating filters take up a lot of water surface and are unsightly. A permanent water filter mounted on the side of the pond stays out of the way.
Since it is automatic, it will turn on at set intervals. While a permanent filter is more difficult and costly to install at first, it makes for easier pond maintenance over the long term.
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09 of 15
Terrace the Pond Bottom
Sloped garden pond banks, if angled sharply enough, result in sliding rock at the bottom and sides of the pond.
Instead, terrace the garden pond's sides and bottom, much like farming terraces or stair risers and treads. Keep each terrace riser no more than about 6 inches high to avoid stacking rocks too high. Create terraces by cutting them directly in the dirt with the shovel, as long as the dirt is packed tight enough to hold shape.
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10 of 15
Plan to Cover the Pond Liner
Every single square inch of pond liner must be covered up. Even the best, most expensive pond liner is subject to the sun's punishing UV rays and will break down.
The way to protect against deterioration is by covering up all of the liner with something permanent, like rocks up the sides, river pebbles, or smooth gravel on the bottom. It's better to think ahead about how you want to cover up the liner. Doing so in hindsight often means overloading the pond liner.
For example, if you keep the pond terraces low enough, you can use smaller rocks. High terraces demand larger, more visually intrusive fill items.
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11 of 15
Be Inventive About Sourcing Your Rocks
Garden ponds require a lot of rocks on the bottom and the sides to cover up the liner. If you were to purchase all of the rocks, the cost of the pond would increase substantially.
Instead, look around for rocks that you can use whenever you are out. When you go on a trip and find a legitimate source of rock, toss a few in your car. Rivers are a good source for rounded river stones.
Beaches, too, provide an endless source of pebbles, round stones, and sand. Just make sure that you can legally take the stones.
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12 of 15
Think Ahead to Cleaning
One of the more dreaded aspects of owning a garden pond is cleaning it. Garden ponds collect leaves, dust, dirt, and all sorts of debris. Eventually, you need to empty out the pond and clean it.
One way to make cleaning day easier is to create a pond bottom that is smoother and easier to clean. Heavily rocked pond bottoms and those that are heavily textured are more difficult to clean.
Lay down only as much rock as is needed to cover the pond liner. -
13 of 15
Use an EPDM Liner If Possible
Even though PVC pond liners are vastly cheaper than EPDM liners, EPDM liners are usually worth purchasing, if you can afford it. EPDM liners are thicker and far more durable than PVC liners.
EPDM liners resist UV rays well, and even chemicals such as chlorine are no match for EPDM. Also, when warmed by the sun, EPDM liners become pliable and fit well into the pond hole.
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14 of 15
Use a Variety of Terracing Methods
Terraforming the earth below and around the garden pond is naturally the most popular way to give the pond its shape. Earth can be sculpted into a variety of shapes.
But for yards with sandy soil or other earth that doesn't form so well, it helps to employ other shaping methods. Cans of landscaping foam, similar to insulation foam, are perfect for adding form to curves.
Large sheets of insulation foam can be creatively cut and stacked to provide a garden pond's basic terraced shape.
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15 of 15
Consider the Effect of Sunlight on the Pond
Sunlight creates algae in garden ponds. Moving or angling the garden pond away from sunlight can help to mitigate the problem.
If you want sunlight on your garden pond, then you'll want to look into natural algaecides or inhibitors. Some pond owners simply drain their ponds during the most light-prone times of the year to avoid algae altogether.
10 Things to Know Before Building a Fishing & Hunting Farm Pond
There are many advantages to building your own ponds, from wildlife viewing to hunting, serious angling to teaching youngsters to fish, not to mention improving your property’s value. Here are more details on how to plan your pond and make this dream a reality.
The author has built four ponds on his property. Each offered different challenges and different rewards. Some are prime bass fishing spots. Two are great wood duck and mallard hangouts.
Others attract and hold mature bucks on the property, offering vital water and cover in close proximity to this popular big game animal.
1. Where to Locate the Pond
This is a major decision that the Natural Resources Conservation Service and state fishery biologists will help you with. The ideal location is where the contour of the land dips towards a natural site, perhaps with several side-hills sloping down into a low area. A flat area in a small valley is also potentially good spot, or a low spot that’s fed by springs or streams that drain into it after rains.
Tip: You can dam up a small all-weather creek, but be sure you find out how much water flows after heavy rains. It may be too much and could flood your pond, causing damage to the dam or washing out fish. In this case you might want to consider constructing the pond off to one side of the creek and have a channel leading to it from the stream, with a gate that can be opened and shut to control the amount of water that enters the pond.
This results in greater stability and allows you to manipulate the water level if you want to grow aquatic plants in shallow areas to attract waterfowl and then flood them to the desired depth.
In many cases a contractor or excavator who has experience building ponds may be able to plan and create the pond by his or herself with input from the NRCS and biologists. In other cases, you may need to hire an engineer to help lay out your pond. Talk to neighbors who have built ponds and see how they designed theirs and what problems they might have run into.
2. Pond Drain Pipes & Spillways are Safety Features
Drainpipes are necessary for most ponds. Here thee builder is filling around the pipe with his heavy equipment.Thinking about your ponds drain design, a pond that simply accepts the drainage from a few sidehills, a drainpipe of 6-18 inches in diameter may suffice. For a pond draining a larger area, 18-36 inch pipes may be required. Galvanized steel is okay, but after 15-25 years there may be some deterioration and leakage.
PVC is the other main choice and will last longer. Gates or valves to manipulate your pond level are also an option. That way you can close them when the pond needs filling or open them when you need to drain or partially lower it.
With some ponds that drain a limited area, you can get by with just a spillway. Actually two spillways are best—a main site and an emergency one that kicks in to drain additional water during heavy rains. Even if you go with a drainpipe, you need to have one spillway for overflow after downpours.
Author build this rock spillway for one of his ponds with a small tractor and lots of hand work. At least one spillway is required on ponds for heavy rainfalls.Tip: Don’t put a grate or screen across the spillway to prevent fish from escaping. It might clog up with debris.
Extra Tip: These spillway and drainpipe decisions you can certainly be involved in, but the engineer or contractor should have the final say.
You could be liable if a dam fails and floods property downstream. Expert advice is best.
3. How to Determine the Size of Your Pond
Size is important in a pond, but surprisingly small ponds can be rewarding to build and own. Things to consider include the lay of the land, the abundance of the water source, and how fat your wallet is!
In some areas a one-third or half-acre pond may be all you can build before the change in elevation becomes too steep to increase the pond’s size. In open bottom land that drains a large area, you can almost create a pond as large as you can afford.
Tip: Ask your contractor to give you a couple of estimates so you can know the exact cost according to how large the pond is built. Try to go with the largest you can afford. But even a half-acre pond can provide great rewards for fishing, hunting, and wildlife viewing. So don’t feel bad if you have to build small. Go with what you can afford and maybe you’ll be able to build another larger one later.
4. How Deep Should You Dig Your Pond?
Depth of the pond will vary with the topography and your purposes. For most warm-water game fish ponds a minimum depth of six feet at the deepest spot is crucial. This allows the pond to retain sufficient oxygen during winter and summer months. If possible, try for 8-12 feet or more at the deep end in front of the dam when the pond is full.
Tip: Avoid having the pond taper up to very shallow water at the upper end. If possible, even that should be three feet or at least two feet. Less than that and weeds tend to become a problem.
Extra Tip: It’s vital that all topsoil be removed and a hard, impervious bottom be formed for the pond to hold water securely.
5. How do You Know What Should be in the Bottom of a Wildlife Pond?
If you’re digging in a sandy or rocky area, a pond may not hold water well, so it’s important to check ahead of time with a soil expert or the district office of soil and water conservation.
Avoid sandy soils, rock, shale, and limestone areas when possible.
Ideally you want to find clay beneath the topsoil that can be packed down to form an impervious bottom. This material also swells up when it’s compacted and then becomes wet, helping seal any potential leads. If the bottom doesn’t appear likely to hold water well, you may have to haul in truck loads of bentonite, a volcanic material, to seal the bottom of the pond so that it will retain water. On small ponds, plastic pond liner sheeting can sometimes be used to line the bottom. Fortunately, these steps are rarely required if the site is chosen carefully.
Tip: If a pond leaks some during the first few months, don’t despair. Often it will seal itself as silt and mud wash in and spread out, clogging up the leaks.
Sometimes you can leave standing timber or brush in a pond when it’s built for fish cover. Usually, however, it’s best to completely clear the pond so the bottom can be packed and sealed with the bulldozer.
Then you can add fish structures later—either natural or artificial. They can be added before the pond fills or afterwards.
Tip: If you like catching big bream such as bluegills and shellcrackers (redear sunfish), consider adding a truck load of small gravel spread out in a few shallow areas or coves where it won’t get silted over. This will make prime spawning habitat and spring fishing spots for those species.
6. What is the Best Fish for Stocking a Pond?
If you are fortunate to have a strong cold-water spring on your property, you may want to dig a fairly shallow pond and stock it with trout. Usually the best fish to go with are warm water species such as largemouth bass, bluegills, redear sunfish, and catfish. It’s generally prudent to avoid stocking crappies in small ponds. They tend to overpopulate the pond and become stunted.
State fishery biologists or private pond consultants can help you decide how many and what species of fish to put in the pond, depending on its size and other factors.
Buy from a reputable live fish company so you make sure you get healthy stock.
Tip: A second option where legal is to catch fish in surrounding waters, put them in large coolers or live wells and stock them in your new fishing hole. This way you can start out with some good-sized fish to make the angling fun and productive from the start. Since you’re stocking adult specimens, you won’t need nearly as many this way. Hopefully they will breed the first year in the pond and restock it that way.
7. How to Decide on the Forage or Feeder Fish Species for Your Pond
Mossy Oak BioLogic Perfect Pond Plus FertilizerThe geography, rainfall and even soil and water quality of your ponds location will affect your forage species choices. Stocking minnows or shad in a pond is usually a good idea. Fathead minnows, shiners or local minnow varieties from nearby hatcheries will help make your gamefish healthy and those forage fish may reproduce. Young bluegills will also provide a good food source after they spawn.
Tip: Frogs and tadpoles will usually get in a pond naturally. Be sure to add them if they don’t appear on their own.
8. How do You Know When to Start Fertilizing Your Pond?
This is an option when a pond is excessively clear with low nutrient content. Consider it if you can see deeper than 24 inches through the water. It will increase plankton and zooplankton, which leads to a greater supply of minnows, crayfish, and aquatic insects, all of which help build the food chain.
Tip: If the pH of the pond is too low, you can add lime to raise it. This may be necessary so the pond can make use of the fertilizer. Add carefully so you don’t make it too high.
Clover Wild Game SeedTip: The Perfect Pond Plus Fertilizer from Mossy Oak BioLogic will grow bigger bass in your pond or small lake with its scientifically developed micronutrient package. This fertilizer supports the aquatic plant life and adds micronutrients that support the feeder fish that bass feed on.
9. What Type of Plants Can You Put in and Around a Farm Pond?
A pond will look pretty raw when you just finish it. By all means plant vegetation around the edges, and possibly even aquatic plants in the water in shallow areas to attract waterfowl and provide cover for minnows. Good choices include clover like the Imperial Whitetail Clover, orchard grass, switchgrass, bluestem, rye, and lespedeza, among others.
Tip: Check out Plant Identification at Texas A&M here
10. Check Into & Apply for Proper Permits to Build Your Pond
The truth is, anyone can create valuablefood plots for deer and other wildlife
easily and with minimal financial
investment.
The days have passed where you could just go out with a bulldozer and dig a pond where and when you want to. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service has design standards and specifications for construction of farm ponds.
The state you live in may also have requirements and permits and require inspections during the construction process. Check with your states Department of Agriculture, here is a link to the NASDA State Directory.
Tip: Click to print or download the USDA Ponds-Planning, Design, Construction PDF
If flowing streams are involved, restrictions can be particularly strict. Fortunately, there are usually well-qualified friendly people at these departments who will walk you through the process. Just don’t try to short-cut the process by skipping any paperwork involved or you could have to remove the pond later.
Tip: Learn how to plant a food plot with this 10 step guide for beginners
Useful advice in the field of pond construction, bank protection, cleaning of ponds, aerator, construction of ponds, bank strengthening, engineering surveys » Dr. YARO
The water level in the pond plays depending on the groundwater associated with the level in the Volga.
Only in spring the level reaches 1.8 m, and in summer 1.3 m, which is not enough for the processes of self-cleaning, bathing. The pond warms up blooms and smells! Advice to customers and incl. deputies: before digging a “ditch”, contact a professional, do not self-medicate! And don't forget to pay [...]
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July 15, 2014 ooptV
The contractor for the budget funds of the Rostov MR YaO cleaned the pond in the village. Semibratovo, and the main part of the silt with the root system of bottom algae remained in the central part of the pond on 70% of the area. The slopes are made with a prohibitive angle, which led to erosion and slumping. Shallow depth gives a relapse of active growth of algae due to the high heating of the bottom. There are no elementary [...]
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13 July 2014 ooptV
Administrations of National Parks, museums, city parks, private individuals face the problem of restoration and construction of ponds.
the optimal depth of the reservoir and what should be the set of measures for optimal functioning. Here it is necessary to take into account the conditions of water exchange, the surrounding relief, vegetation, height of the banks, slopes in the pond (soil characteristics, vegetation, fish, etc.), assess coastal erosion, determine [...]
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6 July 2014 ooptV
Harvesting sums up the work of the year. And if you want to raise them next year, then now is the time to take care of it. Using the sowing of winter crops ... It would be optimal on the day of harvesting to start sowing winter crops. Following the combine, sow on the stubble without plowing. I understand that this is not done on a mass scale. But this is temporary, as [...]
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1 June 2014 ooptV
There is a great way - to replace the sheet pile with a structure using screw piles and shields! Easy to install, big savings! Let's make piles, we will perform installation and dismantling!
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May 6, 2014 ooptV
They make ponds, then the banks collapse.
Here is another diagnosis of how you can get there. It is required to fix the slope in 1-2 belts with a sheet pile with a possible pairing with cantilever structures, etc. Tips: 1. Do not rush to try to reconstruct the reservoir yourself. The treatment itself leads to unnecessary expenses and problems. 2. Refer to [...]
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November 28, 2013 ooptV
The family (customer) signed the contract in the person of the wife with a list of the scope of work, emphasizing that she herself is only a performer, and the husband drives. Previously, the contractor advised the customer (the whole family) that the lack of geological surveys (including data determining the coefficient of the slope of the reservoir during its expansion) may entail additional. costs along the way. And so it happened when dredging hit the fine sand [...]
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April 14, 2012 ooptV
Owners of land located near water bodies should be aware of how the radius of water protection zones and coastal protective strips is established and how, within the framework of Russian laws , you can use the territory located on these sites.
The creation of water protection zones and coastal protective strips does not yet mean that the lands found in them cannot be used for summer cottage construction, gardening or individual housing construction. [...]
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October 11, 2011 mactersait
The practice of our ancestors. Bandage a shock of reeds or straw, and so freeze several bundles into the pond. It's simple, gases will escape through the stems, which means that the reservoir will breathe. And do not overdo it with the number of fish, so one fish 10-15 cm should have at least 50 liters of water
Section: Helpful Tips Tags: aerator, biological treatment, Biotechnology, Oxidation and hydrodynamic, surface aerators, construction of a new pond, operation of reservoirs "
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