Kale in the garden

How to Plant and Grow Kale

Cold-hardy and resilient, kale is an easy member of the cabbage family to grow. You can set out plants quite early in spring as long as you protect the young plants from severe cold winds with a cover. They will grow steadily for months until the weather gets too warm. You'll get a second chance to plant kale in the fall, when cool weather brings out a wonderfully sweet, nutty flavor that is unique to these cold-natured plants.

Fall is the best time for growing kale in areas where winter doesn't dip below the teens, or in a cold frame farther north, because the leaves are sweeter when they mature in cooler weather. In the kitchen, kale can be steamed, stir-fried, or substituted for spinach in omelets, casseroles, or even quesadillas. It's a wonderful addition to smoothies, too, and tender young leaves make delicious salads.

Quick Guide to Growing Kale

Plant kale 3 to 5 weeks before the last frost. In-ground gardens, raised beds, and containers are all excellent growing options.
Space kale 18 to 24 inches apart in an area with full sun and well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8.
Improve native soil by mixing in several inches of aged compost or other rich organic matter.
Kale is a fast grower, so keep the soil moist by giving it 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week.
Get the most out of your harvest by regularly feeding plants with a continuous-release plant food.
For nutritious kale year-round, consider an indoor, water-based growing system.
Harvest kale starting with the lowermost leaves once they reach the ideal color and are large enough to eat. Leaves reach their peak flavor once they've been kissed by a light frost.

Soil, Planting, and Care

Set out plants in spring 3 to 5 weeks before the last frost; in late summer, you can begin planting kale 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost for fall and winter harvests, and continue planting throughout the fall in zones 8, 9, and 10. Be sure to choose kale starter plants from Bonnie Plants®, so you know they'll be strong and vigorous.

Kale grows best in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade as well. Plants that receive fewer than 6 hours of sun daily will not be as stocky or leafy as those that get ample sun, but they will still be plenty edible! Like collards, kale likes fertile soil to grow fast and produce tender leaves. Enrich the soil with compost and fertilizer before setting out the seedlings. Apply fertilizer and lime according to test recommendations. If you forgo the soil test, work nitrogen-rich amendments such as blood meal, cottonseed meal, or composted manure into the ground before planting.

The soil pH should be 6.5 to 6.8 to discourage clubroot disease, although the plants will grow fine in a pH of 6.2 to 6.8 if clubroot is not a problem in your garden. To be sure about your soil pH, test the soil with a do-it-yourself kit, or by using your regional Cooperative Extension office. If that seems too complicated, you can simply improve your existing soil by mixing in a few inches of Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics®All Purpose In-Ground Soil with the top layer. Enriched with aged compost, it will improve both the texture and nutrition of the native soil.

Kale is easy to plant, and grows beautifully in both raised beds and containers. To create the ideal growing environment for the plant roots, fill raised beds with 100 percent organic Miracle-Gro® Raised Bed Soil and containers with Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All Purpose Container Mix. Set plants at the depth at which they are growing in the container. Space them 18 to 24 inches apart. The leaves will grow bigger if given a lot of space, but smaller leaves tend to be the most tender. After planting, water plants well. Plants grow best when they have access to both great soil and a continuous source of nutrition, so apply a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® Edibles Plant Nutrition regularly for excellent results.

At this point you may need to be patient, because spring-planted kale may stay small until slightly warmer soil temperatures trigger vigorous growth. Kale planted in late summer or early fall may sulk through spells of hot weather. Then, when conditions improve, the plants will take off, quickly multiplying in size.

Kale likes a nice, even supply of water, about 1 to 1.5 inches per week. You can measure how much water rain has provided by using a rain gauge in the garden. Mulch with compost, finely ground leaves, weed-free hay, straw, pine needles, or finely ground bark to keep the soil cool and moist and to keep down weeds. Mulching will also help keep the leaves free of splashing soil for a clean harvest.

You also have the option of growing kale indoors. An easy way to do that is in a hydroponic growing system like the Miracle-Gro® Twelve® Indoor Growing System. There's no soil—plants grow directly in water that circulates around the roots, delivering moisture, nutrition, and air. With plenty of light courtesy of a grow light, the system provides top-notch growing conditions for kale. Best of all, you won't even have to go outside to harvest.

Troubleshooting

Kale often grows as a carefree crop, but there are several insects that like kale as much as people do. Velvety green cabbageworms often can be found chewing holes in kale leaves. The larvae of cabbage white butterflies, cabbageworms are more likely to feed on cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower than to bother your kale.

Colourful black-and-orange harlequin bugs often show up on kale plants that are feeling the stresses of old age. Rather than fight the harlequins, most gardeners pull up and compost old plants if it is mid- to late summer. In late summer, the best way to protect young seedlings from these and other pests (like grasshoppers) is to cover them with a row cover or some other lightweight fabric, such as wedding net (tulle). The covers can be removed in mid-fall, when pest populations usually drop dramatically.

Watch for outbreaks of gray-green cabbage aphids, which often gather in clusters within the folds of frilly kale leaves. Treat small problems with insecticidal soap. Pick off and discard badly infested leaves.

Harvest and Storage

Like collards, kale leaves are sweetest in the fall, after they've been touched by a light frost. Pick the oldest leaves from the lowest section of the plants, discarding those that appear yellowed or ragged. Pick your way up the stalk, taking as many leaves as you like, as long as you leave at least 4 leaves intact at each plant's top (or growing crown). Kale will produce new leaves all winter in zones 7 to 10. In climates where hard freezes are frequent, kale often survives winter with additional cold protection from thick mulch, row covers, or plastic tunnels. Overwintered plants will eventually bolt (producing yellow flowers) in spring, signaling that it's time to remove them and make room for other crops. Wash the leaves thoroughly and store them in a plastic bag. You can eat the stems or discard them—it's up to you. If you cook the kale, the stems will become more tender. Kale leaves will keep for several days in the fridge in a loose plastic produce bag.

Kale will produce the most tender leaves if the plants get plenty of moisture from the beginning.Full-sized kale plants are beautiful with big, frilly leaves that can be eaten whole in sandwiches, cut into salads, used as a garnish, or cooked alone or in soups.When the weather warms, your kale plants will send up flower stalks and produce pretty yellow flowers. The plants become ornamental in the garden, and you can cut the flowers for arrangements.This winter scene shows kale alongside leeks in a display of two of the garden's most cold-hardy vegetables.

FAQs

Should I harvest leaves when they are young or wait until they grow larger?

It depends. Young leaves work great for salads, but if you're planning to cook the greens, let leaves reach full size. Pick the largest leaves from the bottom and outside of the plant. Avoid picking or damaging the center of the plant where new leaves arise.

How long can I expect to harvest kale?

For many months. You can pick spring-planted kale all summer, but leaves may get tough and bitter when heat arrives. Quality improves again in fall and plants continue growing even winter in mild climates. Frost makes them taste sweeter, and plants are cold-hardy at least to the low 20s. The following spring, though, they will bolt. The same is true for fall-planted kale. Winterbor is an especially cold-hardy one that works well in cold weather. Gardeners in cold climates can enjoy it through winter in a cold frame.

Is there anything I can do to help kale leaves stay sweet?

Warm weather can make kale bitter and tough. While cool temperatures are the key to sweet leaves, you can help keep roots cool by mulching around plants. Making sure plants remain well watered also improves leaf flavor.

I picked kale last week and the patch still looks sparse. Is there anything I can do to jump-start growth?

Fertilize during the growing season for a steady supply of leaves. You can side dress plants with compost or blood meal, spray foliage with diluted fish emulsion, or water with a liquid fertilizer like Bonnie Herb & Vegetable Plant Food.

How long can I store harvested kale?

Kale stays crisp in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Store it in an unsealed plastic bag with a damp paper towel.

Frost is predicted. Should I pick all the kale and store it?

Frost actually sweetens kale. This is the most cold-hardy of all vegetables and will take quite a few of the early frosts before a hard freeze, or "black frost" as it sometimes called, kills it in colder regions. In zones 7 and warmer it often continues to produce leaves all winter long.

Green worms are eating my kale. Can I spray anything that will kill the worms without hurting my family or pets?

Cabbage worm likes to eat kale. If you've noticed a white moth fluttering among the plants, that's the source of your worms. Spray kale with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control the worms. Bt doesn't affect humans or other wildlife. Bt targets worms, which die after ingesting it. After you spray Bt, worms may take a few bites from the leaves, but they'll stop feeding and die in a few days. Spray any time you spot the moths among plants.

How to Germinate, Water, and Harvest

Kale (Brassica oleracea) is essentially a form of cabbage that doesn't have the tightly formed head associated with most cabbages, and it's grouped in the cooking greens category with collards, mustard, and Swiss chard. Kale plants can be quite ornamental, with textured and curly leaves that come in shades of green, purple, and other colors. Kale has a relatively fast growth rate and can grow from seed to harvest in about three months. It is best planted in the late winter or early spring and can also be planted in the late summer for a fall to winter harvest. Kale does come back every year, but this biennial plant takes two years to complete its growth cycle—so it grows leaves in its first year, while seeds and flowers develop in its second growing season.

Common Name	Kale, ornamental kale
Botanical Name	Brassica oleracea
Family	Brassicaceae
Plant Type	Annual, biennial, vegetable
Mature Size	1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure	Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type	Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH	Acidic
Bloom Time	Spring
Hardiness Zones	7–9 (USDA)
Native Area	Europe

How to Plant Kale

Kale is a fast-growing vegetable that does best in a planting location with full sun. Plant kale seeds about 1/2 inch deep, leaving at least 1 1/2 to 2 feet between each plant. High nitrogen content in the soil is important for kale to grow its leaves, so adding a few inches of organic matter like compost to a well-draining soil mixture will encourage a healthy harvest.

When to Plant

Kale can be planted three to five weeks prior to your area’s projected last frost date in the spring. In most regions, gardeners can harvest kale in the summer by planting it at this time. It can also be planted in late summer roughly six to eight weeks before your first fall frost.

Those in warm climates (zone 8 and above) can continue to plant in the early fall for a late fall to winter harvest. Kale takes roughly three months to reach maturity from seed, while cuttings will mature in about one month.

Tip

Cuttings are an inexpensive way to create new plants. Plant your kale in early spring if you plan to take cuttings in late summer. Kale cuttings should be taken in about three months once the plant has become established.

Selecting a Planting Site

Kale grows equally well in pots, garden soil, raised garden beds, and other containers. Kale can grow indoors as long as you have adequate lighting. Soil that’s rich in organic matter and has sharp drainage is ideal, and the planting site also should get ample sunlight. Be sure the kale isn't too close to taller plants that will shade it. Growing kale in a window box can also be successful in south- or west-facing windows, but in very hot climates, east-facing windows can help prevent scorching from the afternoon sun.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Space kale plants roughly 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart, and plant them at the same depth they were growing in their nursery container. Seeds should be planted around 1/2 inch deep. No support structure is necessary.

Kale Care

The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

The Spruce/Debbie Wolfe

Light

Kale needs full sun to partial shade in most climates, as the fullest growth will occur when the plant gets six or more hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, if you live in a hot, dry climate, provide your plant with some shade, especially from the strong afternoon sun. Heat can make the leaves wilt and lose their flavor.

Soil

Kale plants like to grow in a rich soil that's high in organic matter with a slightly acidic pH (6.5 to 6.8). The high nitrogen content provided by organic matter is crucial for healthy leaf growth. The soil also should drain well.

Water

Kale needs consistent amount of water to stay healthy, generally growing best in 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Water your kale plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Along with cool temperatures, moist soil helps to keep the kale leaves sweet and crisp, rather than tough and bitter. Mulching around your plants can help to keep the soil cool and to retain moisture.

Temperature and Humidity

The plant is usually considered a cool-weather vegetable and can handle some frost once they're mature. The optimal soil temperature for planting kale is 60 to 65 degrees. All varieties prefer cool temperatures and will be sweetened by a touch of frost. Hot weather turns kale bitter. Kale is a biennial plant, taking two growing seasons (or years) to complete its life cycle, but it's usually grown as an annual. It will collapse if exposed to heavy frosts or snow. But it can be grown throughout the winter in USDA zones 7 through 9 if the winters are mild and there is adequate water.

Fertilizer

When planting, mix fertilizer into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil. Then, feed your kale throughout the growing season, following the instructions on your fertilizer label. Use compost or a high-nitrogen vegetable fertilizer.

Types of Kale

There are many kale varieties, and they're all worth a try. The curly-leaf varieties tend to hang on longer in cold weather. But the flat-leaf types generally become established faster. Here are some varieties to consider:

'Hanover Salad' is a fast grower and an early producer. It has a pleasant taste for eating raw in salads.
'Lacinato' is a puckered heirloom kale from Tuscany. It is sometimes listed as Tuscan or dinosaur kale. Its thick leaves are hardy enough to be harvested even after a snowfall.
'Redbor' has magenta leaves with curly edges. It features a mild, crisp flavor and texture.
'Red Russian' has smooth, tender leaves with purple veins and edges. It is considered one of the sweetest varieties of kale.
'Vates' is a dwarf, curly, bluish-green kale that is both heat- and cold-tolerant. It is derived from 'Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch' kale.

'Lacinato' kale

Anna Yu/Getty Images

'Redbor' kale

valery_green/Getty Images

'Red Russian' kale

romiri/Getty Images

Kale vs. Chard

Kale and chard have similar appearances. Their leaves are often large, crisp, crinkled, and deep green. Their difference comes in their taste. Kale is generally stronger, with a bitter and earthy flavor. And chard is a much milder green. Plus, kale’s thick stems are typically best removed before eating while chard’s stems may be tenderized by cooking them.

Harvesting Kale

Expect to wait approximately two months for your kale plants to mature from seeds. Check the days to maturity on your seed packet or plant label for more precise timing. Spring-planted kale will be good for harvesting throughout the summer months, but it's especially tasty after a light frost.

You can harvest young kale leaves to use fresh in salads or allow your plants to mature for use as a cooked green. Remove the older outer leaves, and allow the center of the plant to continue producing. Kale will keep in the refrigerator, ideally in the crisper drawer, for about a week.

How to Grow Kale in Pots

Kale is easy to keep in pots. Not only does this make the plant mobile so that you can move it into adequate sunlight and protect it from severe weather as needed, but it also helps to protect it from garden critters, such as rabbits, that might munch on the leaves. Plus, container growth is ideal if you don’t have garden space or the right soil conditions.

Select a pot with at least a 12-inch diameter. It also should have ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is a good option because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls, helping to prevent root rot. Use a quality potting mix; an organic mix made for growing vegetables is a good option. Transplant your kale into the pot at the same depth it was growing in its previous container, and water it after planting.

Propagating Kale

Kale is most commonly planted from seeds or nursery plants, but it can also be propagated via cuttings. Kale does regrow after cutting, but it requires a specific propagation process. To pick kale to keep it growing healthy, cuttings must be taken from the oldest leaves. Here’s how:

Use gardening shears to cut a stem from the bottom of the plant on its side, choosing one with multiple leaves from the main stem (do not propagate from the plant's center). Remove the leaves on the lower half of the stem. Trim the bottom of the stem right below a leaf node at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the bottom half of the stem in a moistened soilless potting mix in a small container with drainage holes.
Continue to keep the growing medium moist. Roots should develop in a few weeks. If you can gently tug on the stem and feel resistance, you’ll know roots have formed. After that, it’s ready for transplanting.

How to Grow Kale From Seed

Growing kale from seed can begin inside or outside depending on your region. Kale can be direct seeded in the garden or started indoors and transplanted into the garden. You can direct seed in cold climates as soon as the soil temperature is at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit.

Start plants indoors in a seed-starting mix about six weeks before your last expected frost date. Kale seeds germinate quickly in warm soil and should sprout up within five to eight days.
Cover the seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil, and keep the growing medium moist.
Transplant your seedlings from indoors after the danger of frost has passed.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Kale is a member of the cabbage family, which is notorious for attracting insect pests and for rot diseases. Kale is susceptible to black rot and clubroot, as well as aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbageworm, cutworms, flea beetles, and slugs. The best defense is to monitor the plants often for signs of eggs or feeding, such as holes in the leaves. Treat problems as soon as they arise.

Watch Now: How to Make Tuscan Kale and Squash Salad Crisps

Article Sources

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Kale. Cornell University Growing Guides.

cultivation, planting, care in the open field

Before you start growing cabbage, you need to decide what you need it for. If you are going to use it in the summer for salads, cabbage soup and pies, then you need to choose early varieties. For fermentation and twists, mid-ripening ones are ideal. But only late varieties are suitable for winter storage.

Cultivation of cabbage

Cabbage can be grown from seedlings, but this is a troublesome task. Cabbage is a cold-resistant plant, so in most regions of Russia it can be sown immediately in open ground.

Pre-soak the seeds for a day in warm water, and then wrap them in a damp cloth. As soon as they hatch, the fabric must be unfolded, put together with the seeds in a plastic container and sent for a week in the refrigerator. And then get it, stand for a day in a warm room and only then sow.

Such hardening will help increase the resistance of seedlings to spring frosts. Yes, they can already easily tolerate a drop in temperature to -5 ° C (1), but after a week in the refrigerator they will also withstand more serious cold snaps.

Planting cabbage

The place for cabbage should be chosen taking into account the predecessors. It is best to sow it after potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, onions, garlic or legumes - peas and beans (2). And in no case should it be planted after radish, radish, turnip and swede - they are all from the same Cruciferous family, they have common diseases and pests.

If the spring is early and warm, cabbage seeds can be sown already in mid-April. If the spring is long and cold, then at the end of the month.

- It is better to sow them in holes with a diameter of 50 cm. In each - 3 seeds at a distance of 10 cm from each other and at a depth of 1 cm, advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - Beforehand, it is useful to add 1 bucket of humus to each well. After sowing, it is useful to powder the holes with ash - it will protect the seedlings from diseases.

When the seedlings have their first true leaf, they must be pulled through, leaving one strongest shoot in each hole. In no case should you leave all three - heads of cabbage in such tightness will not tie.

Cabbage planting pattern depends on the ripening period of varieties:

early – 30 cm in a row, 40 – 50 cm between rows;
mid-season - 50 in a row, 50 - 60 cm between rows;
late - 60 - 70 cm in a row, 60 - 70 cm between rows (3).

Outdoor cabbage care

In order to get a good head harvest, the plants must provide 3 important conditions.

Irrig. White cabbage is one of the most moisture-loving vegetables. It needs to be watered once every 2 weeks, 3-5 liters per 1 sq. m. If the weather is hot and dry, the watering rate is increased to 10 liters per 1 square. m.

Once a week it is useful for cabbage to take a refreshing shower from a watering can directly over the leaves - 0.5 liters per 1 sq. m.

- Early and mid-season varieties should be watered immediately before harvesting, says agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova. - Watering late from the beginning of September should be reduced in volume by 2 times, and 20 days before harvesting should be stopped altogether.

Top dressing. During the summer, white cabbage should be fed 3-4 times (depending on the variety):

3 weeks after germination: mullein infusion (1:10) - 0.5 l per plant;
2 weeks after the first: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water - 1 liter per plant;
2 weeks after the second: in 10 liters of mullein infusion (1:10) add 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 1 liter per plant;
20 days before harvest (for late varieties): 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water - 1 liter per plant.

The last dressing makes the heads tastier and increases their shelf life.

Pest protection. The main enemies of white cabbage are caterpillars of white butterfly and cruciferous flea. To destroy them, there are a lot of drugs, but they do not always give the desired effect. The most reliable way is to wrap the heads of cabbage with non-woven fabric and tie it tightly on the stalk so that pests do not have the opportunity to get inside.

Harvest cabbage

Early varieties can be harvested as needed.

Mid-season varieties are usually harvested at the end of September. They can be immediately chopped and fermented, and if there is no time, put in the refrigerator or cellar. But remember, they do not last long, only 1 - 3 months.

Don't rush to harvest late varieties. It is important that they stay in the beds for some time at low temperatures, about 0 ° C. Only in this case they will lie for a long time. This weather usually happens in the first half of October.

- Harvest in dry, clear weather. The air temperature should not be higher than 7 °C (if it is warmer outside, the heads of cabbage will not lie for a long time), - explains agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova. - You need to cut them so that a stump about 3 cm long remains. Cut cabbage should be put away in the cellar or refrigerator as soon as possible - in the open air without roots, it quickly withers and then is stored worse.

Care should be taken when handling and storing heads of cabbage so as not to damage the protective leaves, because each wound is a gateway for infection. It makes no sense to clean cracked heads of cabbage in the cellar - they will rot very quickly. They must be eaten as soon as possible.

Cabbage storage rules

Optimal cabbage storage conditions are as follows:

temperature - 0 - 1 °С;
air humidity - 95%.

Higher temperatures reduce the shelf life of cabbage. And at 4 ° C, heads of cabbage begin to germinate.

The varieties stored the longest are: Amager 611, Belorusskaya 445, Zimovka 1474, Gift (4).

Ornamental cabbage in the garden: varieties, planting and care

Ornamental cabbage beds in the garden

Creating an unusual flower garden from ornamental cabbage

If you like unusual plants, ornamental cabbage will be a real find for you. This culture is not demanding to care, but it can truly revive and decorate any garden.

I have been using ornamental kale as a staple in open flower beds for many years. It usually blooms in June - July. During this period, the message of the personal plot takes on a fabulous look.

Ornamental cabbage in bloom

One of the advantages of the crop is frost resistance. She pleases with her beauty until late autumn, when the neighbors' plots become gray and empty. The color of the leaves even becomes richer and more colorful with the onset of the first cold weather.

I plant different varieties of plants in a specific pattern, and in this way I create patterned flower beds in rich colors and shades. Some of them can be eaten. I like the taste of ornamental cabbage, reminiscent of rose flowers in appearance. Even ordinary boiled potatoes become much tastier if you add a few leaves of this plant to the saucepan during the cooking process.

Tips for choosing a variety to grow

Different varieties of ornamental cabbage were brought to us from Japan and North America. Some adult plants exactly copy a decorative rose, others resemble scallops and lace.

A variety of varieties of ornamental cabbage makes it possible to create beautiful flower beds

Unusual cabbage looks great paired with other plants, but I use it as an independent plant in flower beds. I want to highlight the following varieties:

Nagoya captivated me with the richness of the shades, which by the autumn acquire a bright burgundy and crimson color.
Rose lovers should pay attention to Sunrise F1. When flowering, this species forms rosettes of a pleasant cream color.
Purple Dove variety I use when I want to make a flower bed more expressive. The bright purple color of the leaves makes the flower garden especially attractive.
Pink Heron helps me to add a delicate note when decorating the site. This variety is characterized by soft pink blooms.
In order to design the site in an original way, it is worth trying to plant varieties of cabbage that resemble African palm trees. For single cultivation, such species as Green Branched and Green Coarse Curly, Giant Blue and Curly Green are recommended.

There are many varieties of this plant and each of them has its own peculiarity in the nature of flowering, shape and size. Which option to choose is up to you.

Cultivation and Care

This vegetable does not require specific care. The main condition is regular watering and loosening the soil.

I grow seedlings in small greenhouses, maintaining a temperature of 12-16 degrees. Sowing seeds in the holes I spend at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other. Best time for this: March and April.

I do not subsequently pick the seedlings, I simply remove the weak shoots. Do not be zealous with watering, because the seedlings do not like it. I only slightly moisten the soil until sprouts appear.

With good care, ornamental cabbage will decorate the garden until late autumn

When choosing a site for planting seedlings, it is important to remember that this plant prefers soil rich in humus and is very fond of sunlight.