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How to repair cracks in plaster ceilings


How to Fix Plaster Ceilings

By using modern materials and a traditional technique, it is possible to repair plaster ceilings that are cracking and delaminating. Here is a step-by-step guide to how to fix plaster ceilings in your old house.

Author:
Peter and Noelle Lord
Publish Date:
Updated Sep 2, 2021

What old-house owner doesn’t have a cracking or sagging plaster ceiling in need of repair somewhere? Besides the normal wear and tear of living, plaster-and-lath ceilings are at the mercy of gravity, and they can take only so many water leaks and structural movements before they pull away from the framing.

The good news is, it’s possible to repair and rescue plaster ceilings from further damage. We have successfully reattached many old ceilings by injecting adhesive between the plaster and lath where the keys (anchors) have broken away over time. Though variations of this technique are not new–texts from the 1920s recommend liquid sulfur as an adhesive–we use modern materials that are easy to handle and inflict minimal damage to sound plaster. With these methods and good tool skills it’s possible to restore the integrity of plaster ceilings for many more years of service.

Sizing up Plaster Ceilings

Stained cracks and suspicious shadows—the telltale signs of a delaminating plaster ceiling.

After correcting whatever problem made the ceiling loose in the first place (leaky roof, structural alterations), the first step is to assess how far the ceiling has pulled away. Gently push on the surface and judge the amount of play between plaster and lath. Hopefully, you will feel it move back into place like a jigsaw puzzle piece sliding into its own unique spot.

If there are broken keys or debris in the way, the plaster will resist seating, and it will feel and sound “crunchy” akin to breaking eggshells or crushing popcorn. Do not force it back into place or more plaster may break. Instead, just gently encourage the plaster with the flat of your hand. If the separation is slight—say, between 1/4″ and 1/2″—good reattachment is likely because the plaster will usually push back into place solid and flat against the lath. If the plaster sags 1/2″ to 1″ from the lath, there is often too much debris (broken keys, years of silt) between the plaster and lath for success.

Remove the Debris

Unless you can vacuum out all this debris from above, reattachment is probably not an option. Often we find that the worst part of the ceiling has too much debris, and we have to remove this section, reattach the edges, then infill the lost parts with new plaster. Plaster that is soft and crumbly will not hold up during the pushing and drilling and has to be removed as well.

Holding a vacuum nozzle on the drill bit helps suck the 1/4″ injection holes clear of dust.

Removing areas of damaged plaster—particularly in a ceiling—will encourage more plaster to come down, especially if you use a chisel-edged tool. (We call this the domino-delamination effect.) To control this tendency we recommend carefully marking out your repair plan, then removing any areas with a sharp utility knife. Mark with a lumber crayon or pencil; a pen will bleed through your paint later on.

Find The Wood Laths

The holes you bore to inject the adhesive must be directly beneath the wood lath—not the spaces between the lath—so that the adhesive can bond to something solid. If you have removed any plaster, or dug out a crack for repair, then you can see the positions of the lath. In a reattachment-only repair, however, finding lath is basically hunt-and-peck. Sometimes, if the plaster is not too thick, you can stand back and look for ghosts or shadows of the lath showing through the finish coat.

Once you have a solid fix on one lath, assume that the rest of the lathing is 1 1/2″ to 2″ wide and spaced approximately 1/4″ to 1/2″ apart. If you have an infill area that needs reattachment at its edges, mark for injection sites 1 1/2″ to 2″ back from the edges. If you are only reattaching plaster, plan for injection holes every 3″ to 4″, no more than 6″ apart.

Drill Injection Holes

We bore injection holes with a 1/4″ carbide drill bit. Making these holes presents a second challenge because it is very important to bore only through the injection surface. For example, if you are reattaching from the plaster side, you must bore completely through the plaster, yet stop before going into the wood lath.

The 1/4″ injection hole is an effective size for a good seal with the adhesive tube.

Conversely, if you are reattaching from above, you need to bore through the lath, but stop before the plaster. By paying attention to the changing resistance of the materials on the drill bit, it’s possible to develop a feel for these different layers.

Vacuum Again

After you have bored your injection holes, you need to vacuum out the debris and drilling dust. Older plaster is soft, so be careful not to suck it off the ceiling with the vacuum! Place your hand near the hole to gently support the plaster while you vacuum using the other hand. Do not push the plaster back up into place, however; the void will allow the vacuum to pull some of the debris out through the hole.

If you have access from above, you can vacuum more of the silt and debris. Remove keys that are visibly loose or broken as well. Use a wet/dry shop vacuum designed to handle the fine dust. Plaster will kill a household vacuum in short order. Next, wet the injection holes by either spraying down the lath with a squirt bottle or squirting up into the drilled holes from the plaster surface. Wetting encourages the adhesive to travel farther when it is compressed and will also slow the drying time slightly for a stronger bond.

Inject The Adhesive

Finally it’s time to inject adhesive. We use a water-based, latex product that is actually a vinyl floor adhesive. However, any good-quality latex or acrylic adhesive can work (for example, Liquid Nails or floor adhesive). You can purchase these products at construction supply houses and hardware stores in caulking tubes for small projects or five-gallon pails for large jobs.

We use a caulking gun with the tip cut to fit snugly in our 1/4″ holes, and inject the adhesive until the plaster moves ever so slightly (one squeeze of the average caulking gun is usually enough). If you inject too much adhesive you will actually push the plaster off the ceiling. As you inject, follow along with a damp sponge to wipe away the excess adhesive that leaves the holes when you remove the nozzle.

Adding wire lath over wood lath improves an infill repair.

Complete your entire series of holes, then go back over the plaster with a clean, damp sponge to remove further glue residue. Follow the same process if you’re working on the lath side, leaving adhesive wipe-up as an optional step.

Secure The Plaster With Forms

Once we have injected adhesive into the repair area, we push the plaster back into place against the lath and secure it with forms. This step spreads the adhesive so that it bonds to a greater surface area.

We use flexible plywood squares (1/2″ to 3/8″ thick) covered with a layer of sheet polyethylene. Do not underestimate the importance of this layer of poly; if you forget it you will glue the plywood to the ceiling and take all the plaster with it if you attempt to remove the form. (Sound like first-hand experience?) Last, we secure these in place with screws or wood shores running to the floor, then allow the adhesive to set up for 24 hours.

Screws Versus Shores

Screws save the time of fitting wooden shores and keep the work area clear, but they can damage the plaster and leave more holes to fill later. Shores are more appropriate for fragile, decorative, or museum-quality plaster, and we use them for both plaster-side and lath-side reattachment.

Remove The Forms

The next day you can remove the forms. Where some of the plastic sticks to adhesive injected from the plaster side, simply scrape it off with a putty knife. The adhesive is still soft around the holes at this point, but has set up enough to remove the forms. On the plaster side, scrape off the dried adhesive residue with a drywall or putty knife, then use the corner of a putty knife to gently scallop out excess adhesive showing from the hole.

Fill the Injection & Screw Holes

As with all good restorations, a successful repair is hard to see.

As it dries fully over another day or so (depending on heat and humidity) the adhesive will further retreat into the hole, leaving a clear space to fill. We usually fill the injection and screw holes with Durabond 45 (sandable), mixed to the consistency of peanut butter, because this product has a quick set-up time and dries very hard with minimal shrinkage. However, any vinyl paste filler or plaster/joint compound can be used for this step. Usually, it takes two to three applications to fill the holes flush with the ceiling, depending upon the product. Other than this, the ceiling is now reattached and ready for a skim-coat of plaster or a fresh coat of paint.

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Tags: adhesives ceilings Noelle Lord OHJ January/February 2001 Old-House Journal Plaster repairs

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By Tara King

last updated

Wondering how to repair a plaster ceiling? There are a few different ways you can do it. Which method you use ultimately comes down to the cause of the damage and how extensive it is (and sometimes the structure of your ceiling, but more on that later), so it’s always best to start with a little investigation. 

The good news is that in most cases, it’s relatively simple to restore the surface to its smooth former glory, meaning that you won't have to plaster a ceiling in its entirety. 

‘You can usually scrape away any cracks or holes in the plaster using a putty knife and then repaint the area. Another option is to patch up smaller areas that are damaged using drywall compound or spackle. If the damage is particularly severe, replacing the ceiling altogether might be the best route to go down’, says Luke Lee, co-founder of Ever Wallpaper . 

In this case, learning how to patch a drywall ceiling or how to hang a drywall ceiling can prove useful. 

How to repair a plaster ceiling 

Before you start fixing, it’s worth establishing the structure of your plaster ceiling, and find out, perhaps, why your ceiling is cracking. Moisture could be the cause, in which case you’ll need to know how fix a ceiling with water damage. Modern building methods have seen traditional lath-and-plaster ceilings replaced by drywall or plasterboard that’s then skimmed with a thin layer of plaster to achieve the same smooth surface. Repair methods will vary depending on the type of plaster ceiling you have in your home. 

Whether the damage has come as a result of fixing a ceiling leak, shoddy DIY work, simple wear and tear or something a little more serious, we’ve put together an easy guide to help you recognize the warning signs and know how to repair a plaster ceiling accordingly.   

Track down the cause of the problem 

Before you start any repair work on your ceiling, you’ll need to work out what caused the damage in the first place. Sometimes it’s obvious; unsightly yellow stains are a clear sign of a moisture problem, so you’d be best off researching how to fix a ceiling with water damage for example. Other times it can be a little trickier.  

The cause of a crack in a plaster ceiling is more than likely cosmetic, occurring due to changes in temperature or as a result of DIY work, for example. However, it’s better to investigate.

‘While minor cracks are usually nothing to worry about, thicker ones (anything more than 1/10 of an inch) can be a warning sign that structural problems may be afoot. In this case, you should bring in a professional to inspect in more detail’, says Ash Reed, interiors expert at Living Cozy . 

If the crack in question traverses the wall as well as the ceiling, you will want to know what causes cracks in walls to help solve the problem.

Only once you’ve established the cause – and resolved any issues – are you in a position to think about how to repair a plaster ceiling. 

Protect the area

Regardless of the extent of repair work necessary, you’ll need to wear protective gear including a face mask and goggles, particularly when working with old plaster. Cover walls and furniture with plastic and lay down drop cloths so any dust and scrapings can be easily cleaned up afterwards.  

How to repair cracks and holes in a plaster ceiling 

Cosmetic issues such as repairing nail holes and gouges caused by DIY work and fixing ceiling cracks that are fine in a plaster ceiling are relatively easy to deal with. It may seem counterintuitive, but the best thing you can do is to make the crack slightly wider. ‘This will ensure you get enough easy sand into the crack for a substantial strong fill’, explains Nicholas Smacchia from Westchester-based company, Plastering by Nicholas .

Ensure you have brushed out any debris before applying joint compound or filler with a putty knife, scraping off the excess as you go. After applying several thin layers, let it dry and sand the area to create a flat, smooth finish. Then prime and paint to match the wall. 

For wider cracks, consider applying mesh or fiberglass tape over it before spreading joint compound over the top and smoothing out. This same method works for small holes, too. 

How to repair a sagging plaster ceiling 

Typically found in older homes, traditional lath-and-plaster ceilings are formed by nailing strips of wood or metal mesh (referred to as laths) to the ceiling joists to form a strong base, then adding layers of plaster on top.  

Over time, plaster can dry out, weaken and lose its holding strength, and the laths can start to pull away. The first sign of this is sagging or bulging plaster. We’d advise calling in a professional for a job like this, however, it you want to attempt it yourself, here’s how the DIY experts at B&Q advise you do it: 

‘Prop up the sagging plaster using a flat piece of chipboard or plywood nailed to a length of 38mm-square timber. This should reach from the floor to the ceiling. Lift the floorboards in the room above and vacuum between the joists over the bulge to collect up loose plaster. 

'Mix fairly runny boding undercoat plaster and pour it over the damaged area to replace the broken plaster. Leave the supporting prop in place until the plaster has dried and bonded to the laths’. 

You can then either remove the old plaster or leave it in place and reface the entire area with a new drywall. 

Does water damaged plaster need replacing? 

It depends. If modern plastering applications have been used, you’ll need to assess whether the drywall underneath has suffered extensive water damage. Indicators include large holes or sagging in the ceiling, as well as mold and discoloration. 

‘In this case, the ceiling would need to be fully replaced, including structural elements such as beams’, says Adam Graham, construction analyst at Fixr . 

Repairs aren’t usually that drastic, however. Assuming the water damage is surface-level and the laths are still intact, you can simply replaster over the top. 

Can you repair part of the ceiling? 

If only a small part of your ceiling is affected, you can make a simple repair with a plasterboard or drywall patch. Cut out the damaged area of plaster, then use drywall to patch it, securing it in place with drywall screws. 

‘It’s a good idea to take off the old plaster before you buy the plasterboard to make a repair patch. Then you can choose the thickness closest to the depth of your plaster’, say the DIY experts at B&Q.  

Can I fix my own ceiling? 

It depends on the extent of the repair work required and the finish you’re expecting. Minor issues such as cracks and water damage are easy enough to DIY, however, larger fixes should be dealt with by professionals to ensure the ceiling is repaired to recommended safety standards. 

‘Whether you decide to do the work yourself or hire an expert, it's important to address repair issues as soon as possible. Leaving them unaddressed for too long can lead to costly problems further down the line’, says Luke Lee. 

For 10 years, Tara King worked as a Content Editor in the magazine industry, before leaving to become freelance, covering interior design, wellbeing, craft and homemaking. As well as writing for Ideal Home, Style at Home, Country Homes & Interiors, Tara’s keen eye for styling combined with a passion for creating a happy – and functional – family home has led to a series of organization and cleaning features for H&G. 

90,000 from the ceiling, walls and joints, how to close up, how to avoid cracks of

Content

Finishing the walls and ceiling with plasterboard sheets is good for everyone The perfect geometry transforms an old room into a modern one. As soon as it comes to repair and finding a solution to the problem, how to fix cracks in the drywall ceiling, a slight panic begins. Nevertheless, the solution to the problem is possible, but some experience with gypsum and putties based on it will be required.

Why drywall cracks appear

There can be several reasons for damage to the cladding. Most often, cracks on a plasterboard ceiling appear as a result of:

The last point is the most critical, if the ceiling finish begins to crack, even when unloaded, then repairing cracks in drywall becomes meaningless. In such a situation, it is necessary to completely remove the finishing material, correct the shortcomings of the mounting profile and re-lay sheets of better material.

The situation with house shrinkage is considered to be difficult.

In this case, the most stressed sections of the ceiling lining must be removed to keep them intact. Sometimes, in order to prevent cracks from spreading, you have to cut and remove entire sections of drywall on the ceiling. Only upon completion of shrinkage, it is possible to look for areas of "bullying" of wall mounting profiles and deformation of the frame on the ceiling.

How to cover cracks in drywall

The most unpleasant quality of gypsum is its fragility. If a crack appears in the cured gypsum stone, it will spread from edge to edge, just as any non-ductile material bursts.

Drywall is in the best position, the sheets are coated with thick paper to prevent the formation and spread of cracks on the surface of the ceiling. It is possible to cover up drywall gaps, but without restoring the protective coating, the problem can only be removed for a short time.

Sometimes it is not possible to remove and replace the ceiling finish for technical reasons, in this case it is possible to temporarily seal the gaps with:

The latter option is generally considered stock, but the composition of the decorative plaster mixture includes separate components that increase strength and adhesion. Therefore, the material has high ductility and strength. In some cases, it is many times better than special gypsum putties.

You can also use a specialized compound from Knauf. Fugenfüller plaster mass is designed specifically for sealing joints at the joints of drywall sheets. The seal is sufficiently ductile and at the same time fluid to penetrate into the thinnest cracks.

A crack can only be repaired with ordinary plaster or alabaster for a very short time. A small temperature drop will cause the repair material to quickly fall out of the crack.

How to fix drywall cracks

Before attempting to repair damage to the ceiling, a little preparation needs to be done. A chance to fix a crack in a drywall ceiling will only come about if it is stopped from spreading.

If the line has reached the edge of the drywall sheet, then in this part we simply temporarily seal it with adhesive tape, after which we look for and find the end of the crack. With a thin drill with a diameter of 3 mm, we drill the stop point of the damage line.

Cutting the damaged area

The next step is to increase the width of the crack, that is, to perform its cutting. This is a fairly simple procedure that requires accuracy and patience. Just like that, covering the damaged area with putty and thereby fixing the crack on the plasterboard ceiling will not work. Firstly, the viscous material will not penetrate deep into the crack, and secondly, the drywall material will quickly pull water out of the repair compound, and the strength of the seam will turn out to be quite low.

Cut with a thin, sharp knife. The edges of the crack expand up to 3-4 mm and increase the slope of the walls up to 60 to . After cutting, the cross section of the crack acquires a wedge-shaped shape.

If possible, it is best to carefully remove the drywall sheet from the supporting frame. In this case, you can perform a similar cut on the reverse side of the sheet. Double cutting is considered more convenient and reliable.

How to fix a crack in a plasterboard ceiling

It is more difficult to remove a crack from a ceiling than from a wall, and even more so from the surface of a drywall sheet that has been removed and laid on a table. The repair problem lies in the fact that even after careful sealing and coating with a repair compound, the putty material will remain in a plastic state for quite a long time, 20-30 minutes. Therefore, the laying of gypsum putty will move away from the surface of the drywall.

Important! The place of damage must be primed and dried for at least 12 hours.

Repair is usually carried out in two stages. Initially, a putty mass is laid in the crack, it is carefully pressed through and rubbed with a spatula. Immediately, without a pause, a thin ribbon, 4-5 mm wide, is cut into the crack, cut off from the masking grid of the sickle. The edges of the laid ribbon are sealed into drilled holes at the ends of the crack.

After approximately 40 minutes, the lubrication procedure must be repeated. First you need to remove the remnants of the old mass remaining at the edges of the groove. After that, a fresh layer of repair putty is applied and another tape is laid, this time at least 40 mm wide.

After the repair mortar has dried, the damaged areas are puttied again, this time using the finishing compound. And finally, in order to remove traces of repair, the drywall surface is polished with a thin emery mesh.

How to remove serious cracks from the ceiling

A small crack 20-30 cm long is not a particular problem, it is easy to seal it up or even repair it with Liquid Nails, acrylic Moment or any other similar material.

Most often, the situation with drywall on the ceiling is much more serious. If the house is wooden, built on a "quicksand", or the gable roof on the box of the building is set incorrectly, then the ceiling will be twisted regularly. As a result, the drywall on the ceiling will periodically creak and crack.

The length of such damage can be on average from 30 cm to 1.5 m. In this case, sickle and putty simply will not help, their strength will not be enough to remove or compensate for the stress in the thickness of the drywall.

In this case, a crack in the plasterboard ceiling can be removed with a special reinforcing tape of the “American” type. The presence of double-row perforation along the side edges and a very dense, durable base easily withstands the strongest loads. "American" is very convenient when working with drywall in cases where you need to remove damage or repair joints.

Before laying the material, the crack must be glued with a gypsum-based mass with the addition of acrylic. Alternatively, you can use any suitable adhesive, but always on an acrylic basis. The damaged place on the ceiling is rubbed with an adhesive mass, then you can apply finishing putty and sculpt a reinforcing tape.

How to fix a crack in a plasterboard wall

It is quite possible to repair damage to the surface of plasterboard walls using the same method as in the case of repairing the ceiling. In a similar way, drilling and cutting of cracks is performed, and since the wall drywall is thicker than the sheets for the ceiling, it is desirable to make the groove larger, about 1.5-2 cm wide.

Many craftsmen, after applying a primer to the inner cavity of the groove, perform the so-called gluing, that is, acrylic glue is applied in small dots in depth along the entire crack, in increments of 10-15 mm. It is impossible to completely glue a crack on the wall. Sizing is done in order to remove stress in the material. The adhesive has a higher ductility, so most of the load will be transferred through the inner joint.

After the adhesive has dried, fill the groove with a small amount of filler and dry thoroughly. It is primed, and after 4-5 hours it is possible to apply the main layer of the repair mass with the laying of the sickle tape.

How to Repair Cracks in a Drywall Joint

Damage to the joint between two drywall sheets is considered to be one of the typical failure situations in a cladding. A certain number of self-tapping screws are screwed into the material, which weaken the edges of the drywall. If the carrier profile is also laid incorrectly, then even with a little effort, the edge may simply crack, or even fall off from the main part of the sheet.

In order to remove such damage, it is necessary first of all to cut the joint, that is, cut off a part of the sickle with a knife and remove the putty mass of the joint.

Carefully cut the edges of the crack, trying to make the groove deep enough to lay the maximum amount of putty. We blow and free the damaged area from gypsum dust, prime with acrylic, as in the previous case.

The edge crack at the joint is considered very difficult to repair the ceiling or walls, so it is not possible to solve the problem with putty alone. For example, many craftsmen prefer to cut a crack to a through state with consistent sizing of the bottom with silicone.

Next, you need to remove the remnants of the sealant, and glue the rest with acrylic with a sickle seal on the finishing putty. Upon completion of the work, the surface of the drywall must be reinforced with a fiberglass sheet glued along the damaged joint.

Tip! If the crack is superficial, then you can generally limit yourself to surface grouting with acrylic Moment.

How to fix a hole in drywall

The choice of repair technology and materials for restoring through damage depends on the size of the hole and its location on the ceiling or wall.

A small hole from a hit by a tool or a misplaced nail, repaired with conventional acrylic sealant. In this case, it is acrylic material that is used, since the seam after drying can be painted in the color of the main surface of the drywall. If you try to remove a hole from the ceiling with silicone, then the damage will be clearly visible even after several layers of primer. It will be almost impossible to remove traces.

Another thing is if the size of the hole is in the range of 3-5 cm. In this case, you can remove the hole as follows:

Carefully listen to the cork, then on the surface, using a blade, cut out a square of paper covering around the hole, a couple of centimeters larger than the damaged area.

Next, you need to clean the place, remove the remnants of the paper base, glue the freed surface and plaster the hole. If the hole in the drywall is located near the loaded area, then before sealing it is advisable to seal the square with a piece of fiberglass, and only then try to remove the traces of repair with putty.

How to avoid cracks in plasterboard ceilings

Cracking in ceiling and wall materials is most often the result of improper installation of the supporting profile. As a rule, the number and dimensions of the galvanized U-profile and Omega side strips are taken in accordance with the standard recommendations of the manufacturers, but this is not enough for complex ceilings. The number of profiles and suspensions must be doubled.

If the house is built of wood, and no more than six months have passed since the completion of the work, then it is best to assemble the ceiling and walls according to a temporary scheme, with a minimum amount of fasteners and without grouting joints. It doesn't look very pretty, but it's the only way to identify and remove problem areas on the ceiling in the future. After a year, you can remove the temporary decor, strengthen the supporting profiles and lay the cladding on the ceiling.

Expert advice

Usually, in problematic areas, they try not to use drywall. If the choice has already been made, then it is best to take a heavier and thicker wall plasterboard sheet, and at least double the number of supporting profiles. In this case, the joints between the sheets should be immediately sealed not with a sickle, but with a denser "American".

Conclusion

Fixing cracks in plasterboard ceilings is easy, but that's not the point. The very fact of cracking of the material already indicates that serious miscalculations were made in the choice of finishing scheme. Therefore, in such a situation, it is best to first remove the cladding or consult with the craftsmen so as not to redo the cracked sheets on the ceiling again, at a loss.

Plasterboard Ceiling Cracks - Sealing Gypsum Board Surfaces

Although the completion of repairs is a welcome event, there is an opinion that repairs cannot be completed, they can only be temporarily suspended. There is, of course, some truth in this, especially when the work is done in parts over several years. But here's the problem: the matter has not yet been completed, and the plasterboard ceiling, from which repairs usually begin, has begun to crack. This can be discouraging, because at first glance there are no visible reasons for such a phenomenon, and the craftsmen assured that the product would not fail. The situation can become even more complicated when the room has already been finished and everything is put in its place. It seemed that the hour had finally come when it would be possible to feel comfortable at home, and here it is. What to do if, just a few months later, clearly visible cracks appeared on the plasterboard ceiling? We will try to give an objective assessment of what happened and find a way out: what measures to take to eliminate the problem.

Causes of cracking on a plasterboard ceiling

We note right away that there may be several reasons for damage to the ceiling and not all of them can be eliminated. Let's pay attention to them in more detail:

Objective reasons

What they are:

Subjective reasons

Their list includes:

Troubleshooting

Whatever the reason for the appearance of cracks on the plasterboard ceiling, you don’t want to put up with it for a long time. But before starting restoration work, you need to make sure that the cause of the problem is correctly identified, otherwise the situation may repeat itself.

First, let's check the condition of the coating. To this end, you can press it a little to the top in several places and determine if there is a large backlash and general sagging of the structure. If this is traced, then you need to come to terms with the fact that you will have to redo the entire surface. When the problem is local, it will be enough to define its boundaries.

Materials and tools

When starting to repair the ceiling, you need to have on hand several spatulas of various widths, a construction knife, sandpaper, a grout board with a grit size of 220-360 and a screwdriver, in case you need to dismantle a damaged fragment of the coating .

Tip : We will use a primer liquid, a strong putty like Knauf Fugenfuller and a regular finishing putty such as SatenGips as restorative materials.

Let's not forget about the paint, which should be enough not for some area, but for the entire ceiling, since local painting will most likely stand out from the rest of the coating. We will also prepare a paint roller and an appropriately sized paint tray.

Possible crack repair steps:

Cracks in plasterboard ceilings can range from simple to complex. If contour or cobweb-like cracks are observed in a separate area, it is better to completely dismantle it and examine the condition of the entire structure from the inside. If several ceiling hangers fall out, it is advisable to seal the holes for them or drill new ones next to them and securely fix them. And then screw the cut out fragment back, or replace it with a new one.

Starting the repair of the damage itself, do the following: