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How to kill plant roots


How to Kill Plant Roots at Ground Level | Home Guides

By Shelley Marie

When your garden or landscape has undesirable plants such as weeds, digging them up to eliminate them isn't always necessary. A few alternative methods use either natural, nontoxic material or chemical herbicide, and both of those approaches are effective in killing plant roots at the ground level.

Cutting Down Plants

  1. Large plants, such as shrubs, as well as vines and sprawling ground-cover plants should be cut to the ground before a method is used to kill the plants' roots. Use a saw or electric trimmer to cut plants to the ground level. Gather the removed plant material, and dispose of it either in the trash or a compost pile. It's not necessary to trim or mow weeds, but when they're very tall and overgrown, doing so can make it easier to smother them.

Smothering Roots

  1. Killing the roots of weeds and other plants by using a thick layer of mulch, including newspaper and cardboard, can be very effective. After cutting the plants to ground level, cover them thoroughly with at least 36-sheet-thick layers of newspaper or with cardboard or plastic sheets. Covering the material with a 3-inch-deep layer of wood-chip mulch will hold it in place. Leave the materials on the ground for at least one year to ensure the plants' roots die.

Using Herbicide

  1. Glyphosate, a broad-spectrum herbicide, effectively kills all parts of most plants it contacts. Use a paintbrush to paint the cut areas of large plants and vines with undiluted glyphosate herbicide. A plant absorbs the glyphosate into its roots. Spray weeds thoroughly with a premixed glyphosate herbicide. Whether painting or spraying, apply the herbicides on a calm, clear day when no rain is expected and the temperature is above 60 but below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. .

Following Safety Precautions

  1. When using glyphosate, wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, a face mask, safety glasses and waterproof gloves to protect yourself. People and pets should be kept out of the area while the herbicide is applied and for a while afterward; treated plants shouldn't be touched until they dry completely. Wash your hands after using the herbicide.

    Take care when handling a saw or electric trimmers, which can cause injuries.

References

Writer Bio

Shelley Marie has been writing professionally since 2008 for online marketing and informational websites. Her areas of expertise include home, garden and health. She holds a Bachelor of Science in business administration and an associate degree in medical billing and insurance coding, both from Herzing University.

How to Kill Tree Roots (Project Guide)

Photo: istockphoto.com

Trees add great beauty to your landscape and their shade can help keep cooling costs low. But when a tree outgrows its location or is seriously damaged in a storm, it becomes a hazard that should be removed—and chopping it down is only half the battle.

A tree’s underground root system can extend up to 20 feet deep in ideal soil conditions, and spread over an even greater area. These tree roots can continue to grow even after the trunk is history and, if close to your sewer line or foundation, cause serious damage. Eliminate underground issues with either the chemical or natural treatment described here—just remember to use caution and keep both herbicide and rock salt out of reach of pets and kids. Now read on to get to the root of the problem.
 

Option 1: Chemical Herbicide

The fastest, most effective way to kill roots is with chemical herbicide, as soon as the tree has been cut down. If you can treat the tree immediately, proceed to Step 2; if not, follow Step 1.

Photo: istockphoto.com

TOOLS AND MATERIALS Available on Amazon
– Saw
– Watering can (or garden hose)
– Glyphosate herbicide (with 41 percent or higher active ingredient concentration)
– Small bucket
– Garden sprayer (or paintbrush)

1. If the tree was cut down days (or more) ago, make a fresh cut with a saw across what remains of the trunk.

This slice should create a flat surface and expose new flesh. With trees three inches or less in diameter, cut across the entire surface of the trunk. For larger trees, expose new flesh of the outer two to three inches.

2. Saturate the tree’s cambium layer—the outer ring located just under the bark—with 2 to 3 inches of water.

As this outer layer is still alive and growing, the liquid will help carry the herbicide from the live tissue to the tree roots.

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3. Mix a 50/50 solution of glyphosate herbicide to water and apply it to the exposed cambium layer.

You can use a garden sprayer, hand-held sprayer, or paintbrush to do so. Be careful in your application to avoid splashing and inadvertently harming plants or grass surrounding the trunk. Tree roots should die off completely in a couple of weeks.
 

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Option 2: Rock Salt

Although it takes longer than chemical herbicide, rock salt can effectively kill tree roots by robbing them of water.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS Available on Amazon
– Rock salt
– Water
– Drill (with 1-inch or larger drill bit)

1. Drill several holes 3 to 4 inches deep into the cut surface of the tree trunk.

Before you stow your power tool, bore several additional holes into any larger roots that are exposed near the ground.

2. Fill the holes completely with rock salt, and pour water into them to fill to the top.

Avoid overfilling, as the rock salt solution is harmful to surrounding vegetation and toxic to pets—you won’t want any spillover. Repeat this process several times for a few months, and eventually rock salt will kill the tree roots. (You’ll know the roots are dead when there is no longer any regrowth from the trunk.)

Fear that the roots have invaded a sewer line or your foundation? Maybe you wish to keep the decomposing material from feeding unattractive fungus. In either case, you could also attempt digging the larger tree roots out of the ground. It’s an arduous process, but once you remove them you can reclaim your lawn.

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Destruction of the roots of trees and bushes: the best means and methods

Renovation of the garden is invariably accompanied by cutting down old trees and planting new ones. But after that, one problem appears: stumps remain in place of the removed plants, which not only spoil the appearance of the garden, but also reduce the potential area for new plantings.

This article will describe the main ways to destroy the roots and stumps of trees, and step-by-step instructions for mechanical and chemical removal of wood residues will help clear the garden of old stumps. nine0003

Contents:

  1. Why tree roots need to be removed
  2. Preparation for destruction of tree roots
  3. Methods for removing tree roots
    1. Mechanical uprooting
    2. Chemical removal of tree roots
  4. How to remove roots yourself
    1. Safety when removing roots and stumps

Why tree roots need to be removed

Removing an old stump has not only aesthetic but also practical value. As a rule, they appear on the site after the old tree has already been cut down and disposed of. Just removing a tree from the site is easy, while removing its overgrown roots and large stump is much more difficult. Many people use the old proven mechanical uprooting, but there are a variety of chemicals on the modern horticultural market that make this process much easier.

See also: Do-it-yourself drip irrigation

If the root and part of the trunk do not bother you, you can turn it into a kind of garden decoration by planting flowers inside it or decorating it in any other way you like. However, there are times when destruction is not just a whim, but a necessity. This happens if the tree was cut down due to illness. If even a small part of it is left in the ground, it can become a source of infection for the rest of the trees in the garden. In addition, the remains of an old plant occupy a usable area, because in their place you can plant a young tree or shrub, which will bring a crop in the future. nine0003

Preparing to destroy the roots of trees

Before you start removing the roots, you should decide on the method you will use for this. Wood residues can be destroyed mechanically or chemically.

If you prefer to manually uproot part of the trunk, you will need a saw, a shovel and an axe. In this case, you will first have to dig a hole around the stump, chop or file its roots and gradually, piece by piece, remove the wood from the soil. nine0003

Note: The mechanical method is considered obsolete not only because of the high labor costs, but also because some large specimens are difficult to manually remove, and the remains can only be uprooted from the soil with the help of machinery.

The chemical method is considered more modern. The remains of wood are simply treated with a special preparation that accelerates the process of fiber destruction. As a result, in a short time, the remains of the trunk begin to crumble, and you just have to remove it. nine0003 Figure 1. Preparatory work

Depending on the chosen method, you will need some preparation (Figure 1). With mechanical removal, you need to dig a hole around the trunk in advance and prepare all the necessary tools, and in some cases, rent special equipment. If you opted for the chemical method, you will need to buy special treatment products, as well as prepare a spray gun and protective clothing.

Methods for removing tree roots

As mentioned above, roots and stumps can be destroyed mechanically and chemically. Since they are fundamentally different from each other, we will look at the features, advantages and disadvantages of each of them in more detail so that you can choose the right one for yourself.

Mechanical uprooting

This method is considered the oldest, since the process uses tools with which the roots are filed, and the stump is simply uprooted from the ground. A more modern mechanical method involves the involvement of heavy equipment (excavators, bulldozers or special pullers), but, unfortunately, not everyone can pay for the rental of such equipment. In addition, it is far from always possible for heavy equipment to enter the site. nine0003 Figure 2. Mechanical uprooting

If you don't want or can't use heavy equipment, you can also remove the stump manually. This will require some preparation. First, the remains of the plant must be freed from the surrounding earth by digging the soil with a shovel. Secondly, you need to prepare in advance the equipment with which the trunk will be removed from the ground (Figure 2).

Mechanical uprooting is carried out as follows:

  1. After the stump is freed from the soil, it must be tied with a cable attached to the winch. It is better to fasten the cable immediately under the saw cut so that it acts as a lever when tipping over. The winch can be tied to a regular car. nine0010
  2. If it is not possible to use a winch, the frame can be removed by cutting off the remains of the roots with an ax or cutting down with a saw.
  3. Once the trunk is free of lateral roots, it can be easily swung and removed.

This method is the cheapest, and with some effort, a large root can be uprooted in a day. However, this method is accompanied by significant labor costs. In addition, if you plan to carry out construction on this site, a mechanical removal method will not work for you, as the remnants of the roots may remain in the ground. nine0003

Chemical removal of tree roots

Chemical stump removal is simpler and more modern, although it has certain features. As a rule, saltpeter is used to destroy wood residues - a chemical with a powerful oxidizing effect, which quickly destroys not only the aerial part, but also the roots (Figure 3).

Removal of roots with saltpeter is carried out as follows:

  1. At the end of summer or beginning of autumn, several holes are drilled in the trunk. For this purpose, it is better to use the thickest drills so that the diameter of the holes is large. nine0010
  2. Potassium or sodium nitrate is poured into the holes obtained and poured with plenty of water. The liquid will dissolve the chemical and it will penetrate the wood fibers faster.
  3. The top of the trunk should be covered with pieces of wood or covered with foil, tightly tied to the trunk. This will prevent chemical vapors from escaping, and the destruction process will be more active.

Leave the stump prepared in this way until next summer. During this time, saltpeter will saturate not only the trunk, but also the roots. After that, you need to either pour a small amount of kerosene on the remains of the tree, or light a fire around the stump. The tree will begin to smolder, and all you have to do is remove its remains and dig up the site. nine0003

Note: It is important to consider that this method is not suitable for areas with peaty soil, since the roots soaked with saltpeter after ignition can cause a fire in the deep layers of the soil.

This method is good because it requires minimal physical effort, and all the remains of the tree will be completely removed. An exception can only be thick and deep-lying roots, but they will be destroyed so much that they will not be able to give young shoots. nine0003 Figure 3. Chemical destruction with saltpeter

But when using saltpeter, it should be borne in mind that in large quantities it negatively affects the fertility of the soil, so it will not be possible to grow fruit and vegetable crops in this area for several years.

How to remove the roots yourself

Another easy way to remove roots and stumps with your own hands is with the use of urea. This method is also considered chemical, but its advantage is that even large stumps can be removed quickly and with minimal labor. nine0003

Preparation of the barrel for removal is similar to the saltpeter method: large holes are drilled in the barrel, into which urea (urea) is poured. Each hole is filled with water, and the saw cut is tightly covered with a film. After 1-2 years, both the trunk and the roots remaining in the soil will completely rot and turn into fertile soil (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Chemical uprooting with urea

The main advantage of this method is considered to be low labor costs. But it should also be borne in mind that when using urea to remove stumps, all wood is destroyed: not only the trunk, but also the roots that go deep into the soil. In addition, after such treatment, the soil is not polluted with chemicals, remains fertile and suitable for growing other crops. Of the shortcomings, only a long period of stump removal can be distinguished: it can take 1-2 years to destroy large specimens, but if you want to maintain high soil quality and not make serious physical effort, this method will be the most suitable. nine0003

Safety when removing roots and stumps

When using any chemicals to destroy tree residue, safety rules must be strictly followed. First of all, for processing, you need to wear gloves and a protective suit. This requirement applies not only to saltpeter, but also to safer urea, which should also not be touched with bare hands.

In addition, it is better to carry out the treatment in early spring or autumn, after harvesting, since the fruits of crops growing near the treated stump cannot be eaten after treatment. nine0003

How to get rid of stumps and tree roots on the site: 4 ways

Sooner or later, every owner of the site is faced with the problem of removing stumps. Even if they didn’t exist initially, they will definitely appear over time. Aging and diseases of fruit trees, the need for redevelopment of the territory - there can be a lot of reasons. We will analyze several working methods on how to remove a stump from the site quickly and easily.

All about uprooting stumps yourself

Is it always necessary
4 methods that work
— Manual uprooting
— Burnout
— Chemical destruction
— Mulching

The easiest way to solve the problem of removing large and small stumps is during the development of the site. If the territory has not yet been ennobled, special equipment is ordered. With its help, in just a few hours, they clean the site. The disadvantage of this method is obvious: heavy machinery and destructive mechanical uprooting will leave numerous marks on the site. But if the territory is still going to be ennobled, it's not scary. nine0003

It is much more difficult to choose the right solution, how to get rid of a stump in an already developed area. There can be a lot of options, but each of them has certain disadvantages. First of all, you need to understand whether it is really necessary to get rid of a piece of wood. After all, you can benefit from them. For example, an interesting landscape decor is obtained from the rest of the trunk. In order to make it, the core is hollowed out and a fertile substrate is poured into the cavity. The resulting "bed" is used to grow flowers, vegetables or berries. Such a flower bed or garden bed can become the center of an interesting multi-tiered composition. A good option is growing mushrooms. Their spores are inhabited by the remains of wood, where mushroom families germinate very quickly. nine0003

It turns out an unusual and useful “decoration”. Honey mushrooms or oyster mushrooms will give several harvests over the summer. At the same time, the mycelium actively destroys wood, because it needs food for growth. In five to six years, mushrooms will completely destroy the remains of the tree. Flowers or vegetables "work" in a similar way, however, they need much more time to destroy.

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If the stump stands where it is planned to set up a flower garden or beds, or somehow interferes with the improvement, you have to think about how to uproot the stump on the site. You can invite specialists with a cutter. A powerful technique will crush the wood, deepening 20-30 cm. This is enough to get rid of the roots. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to use the services of specialists. Then use the methods available for independent use. nine0003

1. Manual uprooting

In order not to mess around with the remains of the tree, when felling, you can cut the trunk at ground level. This is done if they do not interfere and it is possible to leave them to rot in the soil. To speed up the process, the cut is chopped with an ax. Sooner or later, the rhizomes will rot, but this will not happen very soon. All the time, while the processes of overheating are going on, it will not be possible to break a garden bed, put up any building, etc. at this place.

When there is no time to wait, choose manual uprooting. This is a very labor intensive method. To begin with, they dig a hole around the hemp, exposing the rhizome. It is important to expose all root processes in the trunk area. You can not remove the soil with a shovel, but wash it off. To do this, put a drain chute in the pit and “wash” the rhizome with a stream of water under strong pressure. The bare root shoots are cut. This must be done very carefully so as not to get hurt. It is extremely inconvenient to work in the pit, the roots are most often mixed up and very hard. But it is imperative to cut them, otherwise, when the hemp is pulled out, the long rhizome will easily destroy the adjacent path, fence or building foundation. A snag with chopped roots is fixed to a winch or any other lifting mechanism and pulled out of the ground. If it is not possible to use mechanical devices, the stump is split, loosened and untwisted fragments, removed from the ground. nine0003

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Uprooting takes a lot of time and effort, so not everyone is ready to do it. There are ways to remove the stump without uprooting. They are much easier. Let's analyze the most effective of them.

2. Use of fire

A very simple but rather dangerous method. It can be used with certain restrictions. First of all, the remains of the tree must be removed from buildings, fences, underground and air communications, power lines. It is impossible to carry out the procedure on peat soils (peat bogs ignite quickly and can smolder for a long time). Putting out an underground fire is very difficult, almost impossible. nine0003

Burning is carried out in calm, dry weather. All flammable items are removed to a safe distance and be sure to prepare a supply of water in case the situation gets out of control. Start by drilling two channels inside the hemp. Drill to the maximum possible depth. One is lowered strictly vertically, and the second is placed at an angle to it. In the first there will be a fire, through the second it will receive the air necessary for combustion. In large snags, it is advisable to drill several holes for air. This will speed up the burning. nine0003

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A flammable liquid is poured into the central cavity. It is best to take lighter fluid or diesel fuel. Gasoline will burn very quickly, which will not give the desired effect. A cotton wick is lowered inside the hole and lit. The only thing left to do is keep the fire going. Depending on the condition of the wood, it will last from 13 to 16 hours.

You can speed up the process if you remove the stump using the Tsiolkovsky method. In this case, "caramel fuel" is used as fuel. This is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and sugar in a ratio of 7:3. The ingredients are mixed and carefully poured into the drilled hole. You need to know that the mixture gives a very strong flame. In a matter of minutes, the entire snag, including the roots, burns out. Therefore, it is imperative to observe precautionary measures: it is necessary to ignite the fuel from a certain distance; for this, a gasoline “path” is laid to it. nine0003

3. Chemical destruction

The essence of the method is the decomposition of root residues with the help of chemicals. This is an effective, but slow way to get rid of tree roots. Different preparations are used for destruction, but the method of their application is approximately the same. To begin with, as many deep holes as possible are drilled in the saw cut. This is best done in the fall, two to four weeks before the first frost. The chemical substance will have time to penetrate into the most remote root shoots before the cold weather and will destroy them all winter. nine0003

Chemical reagent is poured into the holes. Most often it is carbamide, aka urea. This is a well-known fertilizer that decomposes wood in large quantities. The granules are tightly packed in the cavity, spilled with water, covered with plastic cut and the film is securely fixed. You can plug filled holes with corks or cover with clay. After a few months, the snag will soften, it will be easier to remove it from the ground. Urea, even in large quantities, is relatively safe for the site.

The same cannot be said about potassium or sodium nitrate. They are also used to destroy wood residues. Nitrogen salts are toxic in high doses, so the technique is not suitable for areas where there are new plantings near tree residues. Saltpeters act differently than urea. They dry up the root, which is then easily taken out of the ground. If the soil is not peaty, you can simply burn it, because it is saturated with a substance that stimulates combustion. To destroy a hemp with a diameter of 15-16 cm, it is necessary to lay 2,000 g of any reagent. nine0003

Salt will help solve the problem of how to remove stumps from freshly cut trees. Tree juices will quickly spread it throughout the rhizome, which the salt will “dry out” in a year and a half. The removal procedure is the same as described above. You need to know that a high concentration of salt will not allow plants to develop in this place for several years.

Copper or iron sulphate can also be used as a chemical agent. Each of these preparations is a highly effective insecticide and fungicide, toxic in large doses. Vitriol is used for chemical uprooting of diseased stumps. No other way can prevent the infection of nearby plantings. nine0003

Herbicides work quickly and effectively. They process only a fresh cut, pour the roots with a solution. Autumn processing allows you to remove the rhizomes from the ground in the spring without any problems. But the soil turns out to be contaminated with herbicides, nothing will grow here for several years.

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4. Mulching

The essence of the technique is that the mulch layer blocks the access of air to the saw cut. Without oxygen, the roots slowly die. True, it takes a lot of time. Mulching is more suitable for destroying small stumps. For example, it will be a good solution for getting rid of cherry or plum roots. nine0003

The trunk is cut at ground level or slightly above. The saw cut is covered with a dense layer of mulch 20-25 cm high. It is desirable to cover the entire near-trunk circle. Any organic matter is suitable as mulch: chopped grass, leaves, plant debris. The rhizomes will rot for a long time, for several years. All this time, organic matter will have to be added, as its layer is thinning.

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There are many ways to uproot trees. The optimal one is chosen taking into account the prevailing conditions. So, effective mechanical uprooting is not suitable for an already ennobled area, but on a newly developed area it will help to get rid of rhizomes quickly and easily. In order not to spoil the landscape design, they invite specialists with a cutter, they can remove any stumps in a short time. Or use the safest chemical uprooting. Burning is effective, but it must be done very carefully. The risk of fire and fire is too great.

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