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How to keep outside water faucets from freezing


How to Prevent Outdoor Spigots From Freezing

By

Bob Formisano

Bob Formisano

Bob Formisano is a licensed architect and builder with nearly 40 years of experience building new homes and restoring older homes. One of his specialties is repairing old systems dating back to the 1920s, including galvanized water pipes, knob-and-tube wiring, and more. His home repair articles for The Spruce span more than 10 years.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 08/02/22

Reviewed by

Richard Epstein

Reviewed by Richard Epstein

Richard Epstein is a licensed master plumber with over 40 years experience in residential and commercial plumbing. He specializes in estimating as well as design and engineering for plumbing systems, and he works for one of New York's largest union plumbing construction companies.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Fact checked by

Jessica Wrubel

Fact checked by Jessica Wrubel

Jessica Wrubel has an accomplished background as a writer and copy editor, working for various publications, newspapers and in public libraries assisting with reference, research and special projects. In addition to her journalism experience, she has been educating on health and wellness topics for over 15 years in and outside of the classroom.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

Project Overview

Worrying about outdoor spigots freezing every winter is something that most homeowners can relate to. But this doesn't have to be such a perennial problem.

If you have a standard spigot, there are simple winterizing steps you can take that make it unlikely you'll have a problem with freezing. You can also go a step further and replace a standard faucet with a frost-proof faucet.

What Is a Frost-Proof Faucet?

A frost-proof (also called "freezeproof" or "frost-free") faucet provides better protection against freezing and eliminates the need to winterize the faucet—other than removing the hose.

Keep reading for two ways to prevent your outdoor spigots from freezing during the wintertime.

Equipment / Tools

Winterizing a Standard Spigot
Installing a Frost-Proof Faucet

Materials

Winterizing a Standard Spigot
Installing a Frost-Proof Faucet

The Spruce / Sarah Lee

How to Winterize a Standard Spigot

  1. Remove the Hose

    If there is still a garden hose connected to the outdoor faucet, remove it from the spigot, drain any residual water in the hose, coil it up, and store it in a dry location.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  2. Shut off the Water

    Locate the control valve on the water supply pipe leading to the outdoor spigot. If you have metal water pipes, this is usually a brass ball valve located several feet from the outside wall. Turn the handle on the control valve clockwise until it stops. If the valve has a lever-type handle, turn the lever so it is perpendicular to the pipe.

    Tip

    As you can see, preventing a standard (not frost-proof) spigot from freezing requires a shutoff valve on the supply pipe leading to the faucet. If your spigot does not have this kind of shutoff valve, it's best to install one to simplify annual winterizing tasks.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  3. Drain the Spigot

    Fully open the outdoor spigot and let all residual water drain out of the pipe. If the water trickles and never fully stops, the indoor shutoff valve is faulty and must be replaced. Close the spigot valve.

    Hold a bucket under the shutoff valve and remove the bleeder cap on the valve, if it is equipped with one. You may need pliers to loosen the cap. Let all residual water in the line drain into the bucket. Reinstall the bleeder cap, and tighten it snugly.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  4. Install an Insulated Faucet Cover

    Add an insulated faucet sock or faucet cover to the faucet, if desired. Although these covers don't create any heat of their own, they do trap a small amount of heat radiating from the house, and this is usually enough to prevent the faucet from freezing and bursting—especially if you have also followed the recommended steps for draining the pipes.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

How to Install a Frost-Proof Faucet

The surest way to prevent an outside faucet from freezing is to replace a standard faucet with a frost-proof one known as a sill-cock. These faucets are controlled with a long rod that extends into the home, where a cartridge or compression valve controls the flow of water. Since the valve itself is located within the safe warmth of the home, it is almost impossible for it to freeze.

A frost-proof faucet is a 6- to 20-inch unit with a hose spigot and control handle at one end and a connector on the other end of the tube for attaching to the indoor water pipe. As a further safety measure, these faucets are designed to be self-draining; when you shut off the faucet handle, any residual water in the long stem will drain out of the tube.

These faucets can be attached to the plumbing pipe with a compression, soldered, PEX, or push-fit connection. For most people, it's best to buy a faucet with a push-fit style of connector, such as the SharkBite brand. This will be the easiest install, as it requires no soldering and can be used with any type of water supply pipe.

If you have trouble finding a frost-proof faucet with a push-fit connector, you can use a standard threaded type, and then use a female threaded-to-push-fit transition fitting to join it to the water pipe. If you have PEX tubing in your home, there are also frost-free faucets that are fitted with PEX-type connectors.

Warning

A project of this scale is best left only to professionals or experienced DIYers: Do not attempt this unless you are confident in your plumbing skills.

  1. Shut off and Drain the Water

    Turn off the water to the supply pipe leading to the outdoor spigot. If the water pipe does not have its own control valve, you must turn off the water to the entire house, using the home's main shutoff valve.

    Open the outdoor spigot and drain the remaining water from the supply pipe.

    The Spruce / Sarah Lee

  2. Remove the Old Spigot

    To remove the outdoor faucet spout, start by removing any mounting screws, then turn the spout counterclockwise to unscrew it from the end of the pipe. You may need to use a pair of channel-lock pliers to twist the faucet spout. Pull the faucet out from the wall on the exterior side. Purchase a new frost-free faucet of the same size. It is important that the length and diameter of the pipe match the old faucet.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  3. Prepare the Water Supply Pipe

    Because of the long valve stem on a frost-proof faucet, it is usually necessary to cut the water supply pipe where the tube of the faucet will connect to it. Use a tubing cutter (for copper pipe), a hacksaw (for galvanized steel or PVC pipe), or a PEX tubing cutter for PEX pipe. Remove and discard the cut-off section of pipe running to the outside of the house.

    Debur the inside and outside of the cut end of the water supply pipe with sandpaper or emery cloth. Make sure the outside of the pipe is clean and smooth so it can accept the connection fitting on the new frost-proof faucet.

    Mark the end of the pipe at the push-in distance specified by the manufacturer (usually about 1 inch from the cut end of the pipe).

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  4. Attach the Frost-Proof Faucet

    Insert the frost-proof faucet through the wall from the outside and position the spout so it is right-side-up. Go inside and push the faucet's fitting end straight onto the pipe, pushing as far as the fitting will go. It should reach the push-in mark on the pipe, indicating the pipe is fully inserted into the fitting.

    If you are using a standard threaded-type faucet, screw on the push-fit transition fitting to the faucet's tube first, before attaching it to the water pipe.

    From the outside of the house, secure the faucet flange to the wall surface using corrosion-resistant screws, which are usually provided with the faucet.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  5. Test the Faucet

    Open the valve on the faucet, then turn the water back on at the shutoff valve and allow water to run freely out of the faucet spigot. Open and close the faucet spigot several times to confirm that it is working properly and that there is no leaking where the faucet tube connects to the water pipe.

    When satisfied that the faucet works correctly, seal the joint between the faucet flange and the house wall with exterior caulk.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

Stop Outdoor Faucets from Freezing First

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When chilling temperatures arrive, it’s not a matter of “if” you should pay closer attention to your outdoor faucets, but “when” and “how.” Even if you live in a warmer climate, the occasional cold spell has the power to do incredible damage to your pipes. Neighborly is here to help you stop the faucet freeze before it starts! Use this guide to prevent frozen/burst pipes and the costly damage that follows.

Why Cover Your Faucets?

Your outdoor pipes and faucets are vulnerable to freezing and bursting in the wintertime due to an increase in water pressure. Freezing and bursting often result in expensive water damage and repair costs for your home.

If you live in a warmer climate, you’re not exactly in the clear – in fact, because homes in warmer climates aren’t built for the cold, your pipes are likely not insulated well and are therefore more vulnerable.

Protect Your Pipes

The pipes in your home get to piggyback off the protection and insulation your home provides, but your outdoor pipes aren’t so lucky! That’s why it’s crucial to take care of your outdoor faucets and pipes when the winter months arrive.

Frozen pipes? Don’t panic! Check out these quick ideas and recommendations:

Don’t wait until a cold front to pay attention to your pipes! Use this guide to protect them before a freeze.

Didn’t get to them fast enough? Mr. Rooter Plumbing, a Neighborly Family brand, is ready to help! Check out more of our service brands at Neighborly.com.

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What to do so that the water in the garden tap does not freeze

To keep the tap water from freezing

Most cottages and private houses have at least one faucet that goes outside, for example, to water the garden or for other household needs. What needs to be done so that the water in the tap does not freeze ?

Garden taps are usually installed close to the house or directly in the ground floor wall, usually several tens of centimeters above the ground. This first solution is less convenient because you have to bend over to put on the end of the hose and unscrew or turn off the water. However, it is easier to drain the water from such a low faucet before the onset of winter and thus protect it from damage. Not all owners do not forget to drain water from pipelines before the onset of frost.

Winter exposure to water

Frozen water (ice) during its expansion forms cracks both on the tap itself and on the supply pipeline. Damaged can be not only a faucet installed in the wall from the side of the garden, but also a faucet in an unheated garage. Theoretically, the temperature inside the garage is always warmer than outside the house, but it can be cold enough that water left in the faucet for the winter freezes and bursts it along with the end of the supply pipe.

If there is a faucet in an unheated garage, it must also be drained before winter.
Paradoxically, always noticeable damage to the faucet is a more favorable situation than when the pipeline itself has a small crack due to the action of freezing water in it. Indeed, when using a tap in the spring, water can penetrate the thickness of the wall of the house for a very long time before a leak is noticed.

Worst of all, when the water passing through the pipeline gets into the structures (floors) of the first floor, in the case when the place of damage is far enough away from the outer walls.

There were cases when the owners of the house noticed in the summer a damp spot on the wall of the living room, very close to the floor. Since the summer was very rainy and the water table in the area had risen significantly, they began to suspect that poor insulation of the foundations was the cause of the moisture. The specialist, having examined the wall and the section of the foundation with waterproofing, ruled out leakage through the foundation.

The reason for this, as it turned out after a long "hydraulic" search, was a crack at the end of the pipeline far behind the garden tap.

We drain the water so that it does not freeze

No one doubts that it is necessary to drain the water from the automatic garden irrigation system for the winter, because otherwise - after the appearance of cracks in many places of the hose hidden deep underground - our lawn can turn into a huge fountain in the spring. However, to keep your faucet from freezing, don't forget to drain your garden faucet, especially if you've made it through the first winter without having finished building your house and nothing bad has happened.

Meanwhile, this action should be considered as one of the mandatory actions that must be performed at the end of autumn, firstly, because, as the experience of many homeowners shows, the elimination of the consequences of such an omission is often not limited to simply replacing the faucet, and secondly , we no longer use water from this tap during the cold season.

Draining the pipe is easiest when the garden faucet is low to the ground. All you need to do is open it, then unscrew the faucet itself, and all the water from this section of the pipe will be drained.

When a watering tap is relatively high, it becomes more difficult to drain water from it, unless a specialist plumber has equipped it with a drain valve at the point where the vertical section of the pipeline becomes horizontal. If the installation does not have such a tap, then the water is drained inside the house, after unscrewing the garden tap and an additional tap located as close to the floor as possible.

Thus, without additional manipulations (for example, purging the pipeline with a compressor), we can remove water from the tap and part of the vertical section of the pipe. However, this is enough to protect the installation from freezing, since the water pipe, which is laid deep in the wall, is in a warmer environment and is protected from freezing by a layer of wall material, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

If during the construction of the house on the water pipe to the garden there was no additional tap to drain the garden installation, then this can be done using modern technology at any time.

An additional tap may not be needed at all if a backflow prevention valve has been installed after the water meter, which protects the drinking water in the water supply from contamination if, for various reasons, the flow was reversed, that is, from the internal installation to the network. When such a check valve is installed, it is enough to unscrew the drain valve in it to drain the garden water from the pipe.

So, here are the answers to the question of what to do so that the water in the tap does not freeze!

Measures against freezing of pipelines | SAN SAMYCH

Plumbing, House.

The well or well of a country house is usually located a few meters from the house. Sometimes, a well is made in the underground or basement of a house, but even then measures against freezing of the pipeline will not be superfluous. As a rule, the water in the pipe freezes not in the underground section of the pipeline, but at the ground-air boundary, then crystallization proceeds along the air section of the pipe. Another “weak” section of the pipeline is located at the “underground-house” border due to the inevitable draft in this place along the pipe contour, which is quite difficult to get rid of.

I would conditionally divide all measures to combat pipe freezing into passive and active. It is desirable to foresee both those and others in advance, even at the design stage. So:

Passive measures.
  1. The supply pipe material itself must be heat insulating. It can be polyethylene , polypropylene, metal-plastic . Metal pipes are undesirable.
  2. It is advisable to choose a larger diameter of the supply pipe. The larger the diameter of the pipe, the greater the volume of water in it, the thicker the pipe wall (additional thermal insulation), the longer the water will cool to the freezing point. The optimal diameters are from 3/4 (20mm) for polypropylene and metal-plastic (preferably 26mm) to 1½ (40mm) for polyethylene (more is possible, but it is expensive).
  3. The depth of the trench for the pipe should be comparable to the average freezing depth in your area, from 0.7m to 1.5m.
  4. The pipe must slope towards the well or well.
  5. The pipe must be insulated.
  6. All places where the pipe passes through walls and ceilings (floors, ceilings) must be sealed (foamed) to avoid the formation of even the slightest drafts of cold air in these places.
  7. When passing the pipe in the corners of the premises (the joint between the wall and the floor or ceiling), it is imperative to check these corners for the presence of the same drafts, and, if possible, eliminate them.
  8. It is undesirable, or rather unacceptable, to place metal fittings outdoors and/or in places where drafts can form. If they are placed in such places and it is impossible to remake them, they must be well insulated and provide for the possibility of at least periodic heating (heating cable, heat from the house, hot water or heating pipes).

I conditionally call the following measures

Active:
  1. It is necessary to provide easily detachable pipe connections at the outlet of the well (well) and at the entrance to the house or basement, for possible inspection of the mouth of the underground section of the pipe and removal of ice plugs.
  2. The best active protection is to run the heating cable along the supply pipe. It is not necessary to buy an expensive self-regulating two-wire. In the worst case, you will use it only a few times during the winter. Quite enough is a cheap single-core cable for underfloor heating of domestic production. The only limitation in its use is that its activation time should not exceed 15 minutes. If this was not enough, just repeat the procedure after 10-15 minutes so that the cable cools down a bit. It does not make sense to turn on the cable for constant heating (you need another cable for this), this is an extra waste of energy, and the cable can overheat.

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