How deep do you plant daffodils bulbs
Bulb Planting Guide - How to Plant Tulip & Daffodil Bulbs
How Deep to Plant Daffodils, Tulips, & Other Bulbs
The general rule of thumb for planting spring bulbs is to plant two to three times as deep as the bulbs is tall. This means most large bulbs like tulips or daffodils will be planted about 6 inches deep while smaller bulbs will be planted 3-4 inches deep. When determining how deep to plant tulips, daffodils, and other bulbs, the depth should be measured from the surface level of the soil to the shoulder of the bulb and the eyes or crowns of the perennials. Distance between plants is measured from the center of one plant to the center of the next.
There are two basic methods of planting. One is to dig individual holes for each plant. This can be done with a garden trowel or one of the special hole-cutting tools called bulb planters. Dig the hole several inches deeper than the recommended planting depth and fill to base level with a mixture of loose soil and food for bulbs. Then place your plant in the hole and cover it with loose soil. Using your fingers, gently push the soil into position around the plant so there will be no air pockets where water can collect.
If you are planting a quantity of plants in a single area, you may want to dig an entire bed to planting depth. Then you can locate each plant just where you want it before covering with soil. Press the soil into position around each plant to eliminate air pockets.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Bulbs
Fall is the prime time for planting of hardy
spring flowering bulbs. Bulbs and perennials need plenty of water and good drainage. If water has a tendency to stand in the planting area, you'll want to break up hard sub-soil and put in a layer of drainage material such as coarse gravel, broken stone or sifted cinders below your surface soil.
Summer-blooming
Dutch bulbs and perennials are not fussy about soil - provided it is
not too heavy and sticky.
If soil is heavy, loosen it with lots of
humus, sand, gypsum, etc. If very light, add moisture holders - humus,
peat mold, etc. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be
improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic
material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve
inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).
When to Use Fertilizer for Newly Planted Bulbs
While
each plant is a complete "plant factory" in itself, with built-in
nourishment,
it is a good idea to mix a quantity of Breck's Food for
Bulbs and Perennials
with the loose soil at the bottom of your planting. This will provide
additional food without any danger of "burning." Never apply fresh or
half-rotted manure directly on bulbs and perennials. As soon as the
shoots break through the ground in the spring, repeat the fertilizer
application. Do
not fertilize spring flowering bulbs after they have started flowering.
This tends to encourage the development of bulb rot and sometimes shortens
the life
of the flowers. Summer and fall flowering bulbs should be fertilized
monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. The optimum pH
range for bulbs is 6 to 7. A soil test of the planting area is necessary to
determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone
should be worked into the soil. For good bud development, work Breck's Bulb and
Perennials Food into
the soil at planting.
Which Bulb End is Up?
One of the most frequently asked questions about planting bulbs is, "Which end goes up?" Most true bulbs, such as Tulips and Daffodils, have pointed tips which should point upward. Corms, tubers and rhizomes usually show sprouts on their upper sides, and these should be on top when planted. Some of the smaller bulbs, such as Poppy Anemones, look like small dried peas or small stones and can be planted in any direction - their shoots will find their way toward the sun.
How deep to plant tulips in the ground
Tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn before the ground freezes. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only, as tulips don't like a lot of heat.
How close should tulips be planted to one another?
You'll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose a large enough planting site.
How deep to plant daffodils in the ground
Planted in the fall, daffodils will bloom from early to late spring, depending on the weather conditions. Daffodils do well within hardiness zones 3 to 9. Plant bulbs at a depth of 6 inches.
Why is it important to plant daffodils deep enough?
Daffodil bulbs should be planted at the recommended depth to ensure they won't be affected by temperature variations above ground until it is the right time for them to sprout.
Have another question? Call Customer Service at 513-354-1512. Return to the Customer Service Help page or send an email directly to Customer Service .
How Deep Do You Have to Plant a Daffodil Bulb?
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We’ve all seen daffodils, those beautiful little white and yellow flowers that conjure up an image of something that is both familiar, and slightly exotic. Daffodils are perennials, which means that once you plant the bulbs, they should reliably grow and bloom every year. As long as you know the proper planting methods, i.e. how deep to plant the daffodil bulbs themselves, you should be rewarded with a spectacular bouquet come springtime.
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How deep do you have to plant daffodil bulbs?
Daffodils are springtime flowers that should be planted as soon as the bulbs are available, which is usually in the early autumn.
Gardening Know How has a specific way of planting daffodils that takes into account the overall size of the bulb itself. Most bulbs are around 2 inches from the base to the tip. For those, you’d need to dig a hole about 6 inches deep and plant the bulb about 4 inches below the soil level. A good rule of thumb is to plant the bulbs twice as deep as the bulb is tall.
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Larger daffodil bulbs will obviously have to be planted a little deeper, and smaller ones will need to be planted a little higher. Deep planting is used to prevent frost heave and to protect the bulbs from any accidental damage that could be inflicted by rakes, hoes, or shovels. Water the soil well after planting and cover with a thin layer of mulch to protect the bulbs from any animals that might seek to extricate them.
What type of soil is best for planting daffodils?
According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, daffodils grow best in fertile, well-drained soil that must be kept moist during the growing season.
If your soil is sandier than most, plant the bulbs deeper, and if it’s more like clay, plant them more shallowly. Note that daffodil bulbs are susceptible to rot if the ground is too wet, so it’s important to keep an eye on your potential daffodil patch if it looks like the rain is falling too heavily.
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How should I situate my daffodil bulbs?
Miracle-Gro suggests planting your daffodil bulbs in groups of three to five plants, spaced 4 to 6 inches apart. You can plant them individually, of course, but multiple plants will help support one another and create a nice visual effect when they finally bloom. At the same time, you could also plant them in large rows along the edge of a flowerbed by digging a 6-inch trench.
If you’re looking to fill a much wider space, consider planting them in blocks of 25 bulbs or more. You can even use the eventual daffodils to frame portions of your yard or garden beds.
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Can I plant daffodils indoors?
If you want to plant your daffodils indoors, you can do so by growing them in small pots or containers. You’ll want to follow the same rules as before: set the bulbs far enough down in the container so that they are about 4 inches from the surface, keep the bulbs moist but not drenched during the growing season, and once they sprout, ensure that there is enough sunlight to draw the plants up into the world.
According to DutchGrown, daffodils thrive best in containers that are between 8 and 12 inches in diameter, and around 12 inches deep. Make sure the pot and the soil itself offer plenty of good drainage to avoid any unwelcome root rot. You can plant daffodils indoors at the same time you would outdoors. That means if you plant inside in the autumn, it should come up in the spring. You can even transplant the growing bulbs to your backyard or outdoor garden once they have sprouted.
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Planting daffodils in autumn: How to plant the bulbs correctly, at what depth
Most flower growers prefer to plant daffodils in the fall, because in the case of spring planting in the ground, the first flowering is likely only after a year. The autumn planting of daffodils in the ground guarantees that in the spring a flower bed or an alpine hill will delight you with flowering.
More precise dates when we plant daffodils - in early or late autumn - depend on the region and the weather in the current year.
How to plant daffodils in autumn
Understanding how to plant daffodil bulbs in autumn is not difficult even for beginner growers.
Autumn planting of daffodils involves following several rules. Here are the main and most important ones:
Choosing a site
For planting in autumn, it is advisable to choose a flat place in the sun or in partial shade, which is well protected from drafts. With a lack of sunlight, the flowers become smaller, the flower stalks break and tend to the ground, the aroma becomes weaker, and strong gusts of wind lead to a reduction in the flowering period. nine0003
Also, when choosing a site for planting, it is necessary to pay attention to the level of groundwater. An excess of moisture in the soil leads to the development of fungal diseases and decay.
Purchase and preparation of bulbs
Even if a gardener knows how to plant daffodils in the fall and follows all the rules, but buys poor quality bulbs from his hands, he is unlikely to be able to get a beautiful flower bed.
It is advisable to buy planting material from official sellers, and not in the markets. For example, healthy daffodil bulbs of the most popular varieties are presented in our online store. nine0003
A few days before planting, it is advisable to treat the material with a fungicide, for example, Magnicur Star. Immediately before planting before winter, the bulbs must be cleaned of the upper dry layer of scales. Group bulbs that are tightly connected to each other should not be separated, since damage to their surface in most cases leads to death.
Soil preparation
Daffodils grow best on loamy soil with an acidity of 6-7.5 pH. Sand should be added to clay soil, and humus or peat and clay should be added to sandy soil. Daffodils also need mineral fertilizers, which must be applied 2-3 months before planting (they can also be applied when the first flowers appear). nine0003
For top dressing, compounds that contain potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus are used (for example, excellent reviews from gardeners about YaraMila).
The optimal proportions of minerals depend on the composition of the soil. It is advisable to analyze the soil in a laboratory in order to know exactly its composition. If it is impossible to carry out the analysis, it is possible to remove a layer of soil 30-40 centimeters thick in the fall and replace it with a purchased mixture.
How to plant bulbs in autumn
It is important to place the planting material upside down in the hole. Violation of this rule will lead to the curvature of peduncles, a decrease in the size of flowers and the intensity of flowering. The distance between the holes depends on the size of the bulbs and the type of planting (border, flower bed, alpine slide and other types of landscape design). nine0003
Between small and group bulbs, the distance is usually 7-10 centimeters, between large - up to 15-20 cm. Daffodils are transplanted once every 5-7 years, so in the fall it is very convenient to plant them in plastic baskets for planting, for example, round d20 cm and d27 cm or rectangular 25x28x7 cm.
These baskets are a great practical solution. They are designed to prevent injury to the bulbs during transplantation, quickly search for them in the ground and form beautiful group plantings of flowers. nine0003
It is not necessary to fertilize the soil after planting in autumn. Care consists in loosening the soil and, if necessary, watering (it is stopped after the temperature drops to 5-7 degrees).
How deep to plant daffodils in autumn
The depth of the hole for the daffodil should be 3 times the height of the bulb. For large ones, it is 15-25 centimeters, for group and small ones, about 10-15 cm. It is important to consider that the greater the planting depth in the fall, the later the daffodils will bloom in the spring and will multiply more slowly. A shallow planting (up to 12 centimeters) allows you to get flowers as early as possible and increase the rate of their reproduction, but in this case it is advisable to cover daffodils in autumn and winter, even in the southern regions.
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When to plant daffodils in autumn
When to plant daffodil bulbs in autumn depends on the weather, and in the same region in different years it can vary significantly. On average, the planting period begins in mid-September and ends in November, but planting daffodils in September is possible only in the northern regions in cold autumn. In other regions, the September weather is quite warm, so planting daffodils this month is fraught with premature development of plants and their death during the winter cold. nine0003
When it is possible to start planting in autumn, it is best to determine the average daily soil temperature, not the date. The optimum is a stable temperature in the range of + 8-10 degrees. The temperature should remain relatively constant for 1.5-2 weeks.
Soil temperature determines when and how to plant daffodils. If, for any reason, planting is carried out at a temperature below the recommended one, the flower bed must be covered with leaves, sawdust, covering non-woven material or spruce branches so that the plants can endure the winter cold.
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When to plant daffodils in autumn in Ukraine
Planting daffodils in autumn in Ukraine usually starts in October and lasts until mid-November. The exact landing time, as mentioned above, is determined depending on the weather.
Daffodils. Planting and care
Photo by the author.
Article:
1. Planting date for daffodils
2. Place for planting
3. Soil for daffodils
4. How to choose bulbs?
5. How to store bulbs?
6. Correct planting of daffodils
7. How to feed daffodils?
8. Care after flowering
9. Diseases and pests
10. Dividing and transplanting daffodils
The end of the summer season is still far away, but already I want to think about the future and plan plantings for spring. Bright primroses - spring-flowering bulbous plants open the long-awaited holiday of flowering in the garden after a long dullness and cold weather. This explains their enduring popularity. Graceful galanthus, lovely crocuses, charming scillas, luxurious hyacinths, magnificent tulips.
.. There are many “stars of the first magnitude” among the bulbs, and I would like to tell you about my favorite plant - narcissus. nine0003
The chosen topic is very broad, so in the already familiar “question-answer” format I will only talk about the agricultural practices of narcissus in the open field. I hope that the colorful photos of my favorites will make up for the lack of lyrics in the text and create a special, spring mood.
When can daffodils be planted outdoors?
Like most spring-flowering bulbs, daffodils need a cool start and a two-month stratification period to establish successfully and bloom fully. Bulbs of narcissus, which are in the dormant stage, after planting, quickly build up the root system at a soil temperature of +6 +8 o C. The formation of flower buds in daffodil bulbs occurs within 50–80 days only at a temperature of +3 +5 o C, so these frost-resistant plants are planted before winter.
When determining the timing of planting, it should be taken into account that for rooting and successful wintering, daffodils need about four to five weeks.
The optimal time for planting daffodils in open ground in the middle zone is the end of the first decade of September - the beginning of October. In regions north of the Moscow region, it is better to start planting at the end of August so that the bulbs have time to take root before the soil freezes. nine0003
If for some reason the time favorable for the rooting of daffodils is missed, then this is not a reason to abandon your plans. It is quite acceptable to plant daffodils during October, and at a later date, shelter will be required, prolonging the rooting period. In this case, the best option would be to install an air-dry frame shelter that protects the plantings from excessive moisture and retains the heat of the soil. The correct shelter for daffodils, as well as for any bulbous ones, is a structure such as a low (up to 30 cm) “table” covered with a wide “tablecloth” made of dense (45–60 g per sq.m) synthetic material, such as lutrasil (spunbond). , agrosufa, etc.). Usually I use inverted plastic mesh boxes as a frame, and on top I fix a sheet of any waterproof material (iron, foam plastic, siding, linoleum).
The ideal shelter should be two to three times wider than the planting area, and the covering material on the sides of the structure should not prevent excess moisture from escaping. nine0003
Stratified daffodil bulbs can theoretically be planted in early spring. I have practiced this method many times. In this case, the purchased planting material should be kept for two months in a frost-free room where the temperature does not rise above +5 o C (basement, cellar, balcony or refrigerator). You can start landing at the beginning of April. With this unconventional method, daffodils will bloom a month later, that is, in June. Of course, a September planting is preferable, but the “anomalous” simultaneous flowering of peonies, irises and daffodils makes an unforgettable impression! nine0003
Where is the best place for daffodils?
Daffodils are photophilous, so they are best planted in open sunny areas. It is quite possible to place daffodils under tree crowns in light partial shade or in an area where they will be provided with five to seven hours of direct light.
In addition, when choosing a place for planting, it must be borne in mind that daffodils cannot tolerate excessive and prolonged moisture. Consequently, low-lying areas or places where melt water is retained are of little use for the placement of these bulbs. As for groundwater, it is considered safe if the depth of their occurrence is 40–50 centimeters. nine0003
Narcissuses are unpretentious and hardy, with competent agricultural technology they very rarely suffer from diseases. However, when choosing a planting site, you should avoid areas where spring-flowering bulbs, lilies, phloxes or asters have previously grown. Of course, it is undesirable to plant daffodils after (or next to) onions and garlic. In addition, I do not recommend placing daffodils in the immediate vicinity of compost heaps or “warm” beds where soil pests or mice can winter.
The April greenery of daffodils pleases with its brightness, the May flowering fills the garden with sunny colors, but, unfortunately, by June, the plantings begin to lose their attractiveness, and this must be taken into account when placing.
The natural summer yellowing and dying off of the foliage can either be decorated with neighboring plants, or any accents that distract attention can be placed nearby. It is very popular to combine plantings of daffodils with peonies, which are a good addition during May flowering, and serve as a masking object in summer. On my site, most of the daffodils are “scattered” in curtains among coniferous and low ornamental shrubs. With this placement, the composition is harmonious, and a short period of unattractiveness goes unnoticed. nine0003
What kind of soil is suitable for planting daffodils?
Narcissus is a picky plant and not particularly demanding on soil conditions. The main thing is that the soil is breathable, moisture-intensive and fertile. Waterlogged or saline soils, of course, are unsuitable for planting daffodils. These bulbs develop well on slightly acidic, neutral or slightly alkaline soils (4.9–6.5 pH). Poor or depleted soils need to be improved a year before planting by adding organic matter, such as compost, humus or biohumus (but not manure).
An option for restoring soil fertility can also be the sowing of green manure (rye, oats) with subsequent incorporation into the soil in October. If the soil is sandy, it is recommended to add clay before planting daffodils, and on heavy soils - sand or any other loosening materials (expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite, peat). On acidic soils, it is necessary to add lime or dolomite flour a year before planting in September, observing the norms indicated on the package. nine0003
I have almost chernozem on my plot, but without watering the soil dries out quite quickly, and with prolonged moisture it becomes compacted. Therefore, to improve the structure of the soil and increase its moisture capacity, I use sand and neutralized peat (about 6–8 liters per sq.m.). In general, I start preparing the site for planting daffodils with deep digging in the middle of summer, which I combine with the incorporation of loosening materials and superphosphate (2 tablespoons per sq.m). I usually apply organic fertilizers and ash directly at planting, and there has not yet been a need to use deoxidizing materials, since the soil on the site is slightly alkaline.
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When and where is the best time to buy daffodil bulbs, and what to look for when choosing?
Spring-flowering bulbs are available for sale in late August - early September, and this is the best time to purchase them. The fact is that bulbs dug up three months after flowering are considered the best. And since 99% of the bulbous planting material offered in Russia was produced in Holland, where spring comes a month earlier, then from August you can buy the “correct” bulbs of good quality. By the way, in order to dispel fears about the viability of imported planting material once and for all, let me remind you of the following. Narcissus is a perennial, highly winter-hardy plant and, when properly planted, endures our winters without problems. The place of production does not matter, the plants of the zoned varieties are adapted to the conditions of the middle zone of Russia. In addition, when buying Dutch bulbs, the risk of regrading is very low, and the bulbs themselves are of excellent quality.
It is a pity that the assortment of network horticultural hypermarkets is distinguished by unfortunate constancy, rarely updated, even the photographs on the packages have not changed in twenty years. Of course, I am interested in new items, so I carefully follow the offers of online stores with a time-tested reputation. nine0003
When choosing planting material for daffodils, carefully inspect the bulbs and make sure that their actual number corresponds to that stated on the package. Bulbs of proper quality should not have major mechanical damage, mold foci or dark brown spots. The integumentary scales should be dry, uniform in color, and the bulbs themselves should be dense. You should inspect and gently feel the bottom of the bulbs, because it is in this place that rot most often appears. When choosing, many flower growers prefer large bulbs, believing that large bulbs will give out a large flower. I try to choose a package where there are the most daffodils with children, which can be separated before planting and increase the number of copies.
Also, when buying, do not forget that the size of the bulbs, as a rule, depends on the type and even variety of daffodils. For example, in undersized cyclamen or triandrus daffodils, the bulbs are smaller than in large-flowered terry or large-crowned, although there are exceptions. nine0003
How to store daffodil bulbs before planting?
After purchase, I try to immediately treat any bulbs in a fungicide solution containing thiram (Healthy Earth or Maxim). I first remove dry roots and exfoliated integumentary scales, and if possible, I separate the nests of the bulbs and carefully break off the babies. The soaking procedure in a working solution prepared according to the instructions takes only half an hour, subsequent drying in a sieve or on a newspaper takes about a day. These small efforts will pay off with confidence in the safety of the planting material, in addition, no more treatments will be required before planting. nine0003
Prepared bulbs before planting are stored in boxes or large paper bags in a cool dry place (+15 +17 o C).
Daffodils should not be stored in plastic bags as they can become moldy or rot. If I don't want to break the original packaging, I process the bulbs without removing them from the perforated bag and store them in a way that allows the bulbs to ventilate.
There are recommendations one week before planting to place narcissus bulbs in a place with a constant temperature of +6 +8 o C, but after trying this advice a couple of times in practice, I did not see any special results. But if the bulbs have dried up after long-term storage, then I soak them in any growth stimulant (“Zircon”, “Epin”, “Kornevin”) for three to five hours immediately before planting.
How deep and how best to plant daffodils: in holes or trenches?
The planting depth is three times the height of the bulb - this is the general rule for planting most bulbous plants. However, on light soils, it is desirable to increase the depth by another three to five centimeters.
In addition, a sand “cushion” about three centimeters thick is made in the landing pit or hole, and this must also be taken into account when preparing the seat. nine0003
There are two ways of planting bulbs and I conventionally call them “group” and “single”. With a “single” landing on a prepared site, a separate hole is made for each onion, where river sand is first poured. In this case, the traditional “planter” for bulbs will not fit in size, it will be a bit short, so it is better to use a long and narrow scoop. In a similar way, I plant bulbs in relatively inaccessible places with a limited area, for example, between undersized spireas or dwarf conifers. nine0003
When planting a large number of bulbs in a spacious area, it is more convenient to use the “group” method of planting bulbs. The essence of the method is to organize a landing trench or pit of arbitrary shape, from which the soil is removed, then a sandy “cushion” is poured, and only then the bulbs are laid out.
This is the method I usually practice, because I like to plant daffodils in large groups (clumps) of 15-30 copies of one variety. With this method, it is more convenient to maintain not only the optimal planting depth, but also the distance between the bulbs. In the allotted area, daffodils have been living with me for seven years without a transplant, so I try to plant the bulbs more spaciously and keep a distance of 15 cm for small ones to 25 cm for large bulbs. nine0003
Daffodils do not require annual digging and replanting, so I use ready-made plastic baskets for bulbs only when it is necessary to separate different varieties in one pit or trench. When planting in baskets, it is very important not to forget to add a layer of river sand to the bottom, then fertile soil, and lay out the bulbs themselves only after watering in order to avoid voids and organize reliable drainage.
Another important point is the installation of garden beacons or sticks that prevent unwanted damage to the planted bulbs during autumn digging.
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After placing the bulbs in the hole, I dust them with wood ash and carefully cover them with earth so that they are not visible, and then water them liberally with a hose. Next, I fill the planting hole or trench with excavated soil, and then mulch with compost (or leaf humus) with a layer of 3-5 centimeters. It seems to me right not to mix fertilizers with prepared soil, but to scatter them on top, therefore, on poor soil, before mulching, I recommend evenly scattering specialized mineral fertilizer for bulbs. If it is possible to visit the garden in early spring, then fertilization can be postponed until the active vegetation of daffodils begins. nine0003
How and when to feed daffodils?
Daffodils, in my opinion, are less demanding on regular fertilization than the luxurious “capricious” tulips or “gluttonous” hyacinths. However, like any spring-flowering bulb, daffodils need additional nutrition to fully recover from the flowering period.
And a few years after planting, when the nests of bulbs grow, daffodils begin to experience a shortage of basic nutrients, then fertilizers cannot be dispensed with. nine0003
For spring-flowering bulbs, there is a standard feeding scheme during the growing season using mineral fertilizers. Admirers of organic farming practice an alternative option using natural mineral and organic fertilizers. It seems to me more rational to save wood ash or Khotynets tripoli for vegetable and fruit crops, so for daffodils I use only “mineral water”. The exceptions are natural mulching materials (lowland peat, wood chips, coconut fiber, compost, leaf humus), the use of which is not only effective, but also significantly reduces the labor and time costs for caring for bulbs. nine0003
In the event that daffodils are planted in specially prepared and fertilized soil in autumn, then next year you can not worry about their additional nutrition. I start feeding bulbs from the second year of planting, observing the timing of fertilization and combining with other necessary agrotechnical measures.
Work begins in April, when young leaves are just appearing, and the ground has dried up after the snow has melted. Carefully, so as not to damage the plants, I loosen the soil around the daffodils, spill it well from the hose, and then apply nitrogen fertilizer carbamide (urea) and mulch with a layer of 3–4 cm. Consumption rate is a matchbox (13–15 g) per 10 liters of water per square meter of landing area. If it rains, then urea can simply be evenly scattered in the root zone of daffodils. nine0003
When flower stalks form on daffodils, it's time to apply a complex mineral fertilizer at the rate of 30 g per square meter. You can embed granular specialized (for bulbous) or universal spring fertilizer into the soil. It is easier for me to use water-soluble types of fertilizers, for example, nitroammophoska, the application of which saves working time. Just in case, let me remind you that solutions of any mineral fertilizers must be used up within half an hour after preparation, and it is impossible to feed on dry soil! nine0003
Under favorable weather conditions, a bright festival of flowering daffodils of different varieties can last up to a month.
Removing faded flower stalks and applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizer twice will help the bulbs stock up on nutrients and prepare for next spring. Immediately after flowering, I spill it over the leaves with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1 tbsp. L per 10 l) with an interval of 10–14 days. I note that if fertilizer with calcium and magnesium was previously applied, then potassium monophosphate is not recommended. nine0003
The quality of flowering and development of daffodils directly depends on soil moisture. From the moment the first sprouts appear until the very beginning of the natural yellowing of the foliage, it is important to keep the soil moderately moist. Of course, mulching plantings eliminates unnecessary trouble, but in dry weather additional watering is required. The root system of daffodils is compact and therefore it is enough to pour a couple of buckets of water per square meter.
Do I need to care for daffodils after flowering? nine0005
When preparing daffodils for a dormant period, nutrients are drained from the roots and leaves into the bulb, so it is highly undesirable to remove withered leaves before they are completely dry. You can either ignore the untidy appearance of plantings with drying leaves, or transform a temporary flaw into an unusual addition to the composition. For example, my neighbor and I make peculiar “hairstyles” from daffodil leaves: she weaves braids, and I do “samurai tails”. Tying the leaves into a bunch is a short but useful job that greatly facilitates weeding. In addition, in the case of a long rainy period, the land in the area with daffodils dries out faster. Daffodils need relatively “dry” conditions during their dormant period, so waterlogging is best avoided. nine0003
When the daffodil leaves are completely dry, they can be removed by first marking the planting boundaries with sticks or garden beacons. I am calm about the sight of empty land where the curtains of “sleeping” spring-flowering bulbs are located. Having a bad experience with trying to decorate an unsightly place with branches of a horizontal juniper, I was convinced of the following. It is better to mulch the plantings in a thin layer and keep them free of weeds and anything else than to provoke bulb rot.
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Autumn care for daffodils is reduced to the application of superphosphate (30 g per sq.m.) in September, watering with water (if necessary) and mulching of areas with daffodils in early November. The mulching layer will serve as protection against drying out during snowless frosts, and will also turn into organic fertilizer by the beginning of spring. Only daffodils planted after October 20 and varieties from the tacet group need additional shelter for the winter.
Can daffodils be affected by diseases and pests? nine0005
In theory, any bulbs under adverse weather conditions or incorrect agricultural practices can be susceptible to rot, fungal diseases or viral diseases. In practice, I have never encountered manifestations of any disease in narcissists. To prevent root rot in May, I plant a useful antagonist fungus in the soil, that is, I use one of the biofungicides (“Gliocladin”, “Trichocin”, “Trichoflor”). A couple of times at the end of May and in June I spray daffodils with a solution of any of the copper-containing preparations, follow the rules of crop rotation and agricultural technology, disinfect planting material and garden tools - and my daffodils do not get sick.
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Narcissus is considered a poisonous plant and it is believed that mice do not touch daffodil bulbs. They may not eat, but they cause significant damage to perennial bulbous plants with their nests and burrows. Therefore, in the matter of placement, I recommended avoiding the neighborhood of daffodils with the supposed places of “winter apartments” of mice. As for insect pests, I have not yet had to take any measures to combat them. While I manage with prevention: I periodically add mustard cake (hot pepper, ground eggshell, ash) around the plantings and use only healthy planting material. Plus, coniferous plants located nearby provide significant assistance, the essential oils of which repel insect pests. nine0003
How and when to transplant daffodils?
Even if you take care of and feed daffodils according to all the rules, after six years there is a need to transplant them to a new place. Bulb nests grow, the number of babies increases, there is a nutritional deficiency - all this affects flowering.
The photo shows how weak the flowering of daffodils, planted more than ten years ago, becomes. You can start digging up daffodil bulbs after the foliage has dried, that is, at the end of June. Planting daffodils in special plastic baskets greatly simplifies the work, because you just need to dig, remove the containers and free the bulbs from the ground. nine0003
When digging, one must manage not only not to damage the bulbs with a tool, but also try not to break the nests of daffodils. I usually remove the top layer of earth first, and then carefully remove the bulbs. With this work, I do not remove the preserved lower part of the leaves and roots, but only clean it from the ground, and without fanaticism, so as not to scratch it. Next, I put the bulbs according to varieties in mesh boxes and send them to a dry, dark place with good ventilation for a week.
To get a lot of quality planting material, you need to properly divide the nests of daffodil bulbs.
Only that narcissus baby will take root well, which has a common bottom with the mother bulb. When dividing, it is better to just gently break off the babies, rejecting the damaged ones and sorting out too small young bulbs.
Cleaned from the remnants of the earth and exfoliated scales, I soak the prepared planting material in a thiram-based fungicide, and then dry it in the shade in a draft. After that, I once again reject bulbs of dubious quality and then dust the finished material with a mixture of ash and crushed chalk (1: 1). Further storage takes place in a dark, cool and, most importantly, dry place at a temperature of +16 +18 o C.
Every passionate gardener knows that the pursuit of perfection is endless and is not limited by time or conditions. But when creating a “dream garden”, we sometimes choose a path that is too complicated and time consuming. But you can get closer to the cherished ideal using reliable and easy-to-cultivate plants.
