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Growing cucumbers in the garden


How to Grow and Plant Cucumbers

Learn expert tips for growing cucumbers in your vegetable garden. Cucumber is a relatively easy plant to grow and really easy to eat!

A tropical vegetable, cucumbers thrive when the weather is hot and water is plentiful. Growing cucumbers is for warmer weather: Plants are so frost-tender that they shouldn't be set into the garden until soil temperatures are reliably in the 70-degree range (no less than 2 weeks after the last frost date).

Cucumber plants grow in two forms: vining and bush. Vines scramble along the ground or clamber up trellises, while bush types, such as Burpless Bush Hybrid, form a more compact plant. Generally, vining cucumbers yield more fruit throughout the growing season. Bush selections are especially suited to containers and small gardens. You can increase the season's yield of bush varieties by planting several crops in succession 2 weeks apart.

Whether you want a cucumber for slicing or pickling, Bonnie Plants® has a variety to suit your taste. Lemon cucumber offers smaller fruits perfect for a single serving, while Boston Pickling boasts classic heirloom taste. The long Armenian cucumber is a specialty cucumber prized for taste and the fact that a single cucumber yields so many slices. Whichever cucumber variety you choose, you can rest assured that you'll get a strong start with Bonnie Plants, a company that has been around for over 100 years.

Quick Guide to Growing Cucumbers

Soil, Planting, and Care

Cucumbers need warm, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8, although they will tolerate a bit more alkaline soil to 7.6. To improve the soil and help create the root environment needed for a big harvest, work several inches of aged compost-enriched Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All Purpose In-Ground Soil into the top few inches of your existing garden soil. (Compost or composted manure will work, too.) Plant seedlings 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety (check the stick tag). For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.

In areas where spring is long and cool, you can warm the soil 3 to 4 degrees by covering the hill or row with black plastic.If you do not plant in black plastic, then mulch with pine straw, wheat straw, chopped leaves, or your favorite organic mulch shortly after planting. If the weather is unseasonably cool, you can wait a while to mulch until the ground is warmed by the sun. Mulch is especially important to keep the fruit clean for bush types and vines not growing on a trellis. Straw mulch is also thought to be uncomfortable for slugs and creates an uneasy footing for cucumber beetles, helping to keep them at bay.

If you can, trellis your vines. This keeps the fruit clean and saves space. A 12- to 18-inch diameter cage made from 4- or 5-foot welded wire fencing or hog wire will support 2 or 3 vines. Wire is easy for the tendrils of climbing cucumbers to grab as the plant grows.

Cucumbers grow fast and don't demand a lot of care. Just keep the soil consistently moist with an inch of water per week (more if temperatures sizzle and rain is scarce). Inadequate or inconsistent moisture causes oddly shaped or poor-tasting fruit. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry. This helps prevent leaf diseases that can ruin the plant.

For best results, high quality plant food is just as important as starting with great soil. You can fertilize with a water-soluble food, such as Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® Edibles Plant Nutrition, applying it directly to soil around plant stems. Or, you can use a continuous-release fertilizer, like Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® Edibles Plant Nutrition Granules, worked into the soil. Both plant foods feed both your plants and the beneficial microbes in the soil that help them thrive. Either way, be sure to follow label directions.

Troubleshooting

If vines bloom but don't fruit, something is probably interfering with pollination. First, make sure that you see both male and female blooms. Male blooms usually appear first and then drop off, so don't be alarmed if this happens. Within a week or two, female flowers will also appear; each one has a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become a cucumber. If you're still not seeing those swellings turn into fruit, you may need to do a bit of hand-pollination.

Several pests bother cucumbers. Squash bugs may attack seedlings. Slugs like ripening fruit. Aphids can colonize leaves and buds. Straw mulch helps keep slugs at bay, as can trellising vines to get the fruit off the ground. Vines are also bothered by cucumber beetles, which chew holes in leaves and flowers and scar stems and fruits, but worse than that, they spread a disease that causes the plants to wilt and die. Powdery mildew is a disease that leaves white, mildew-like patches on the leaves. Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence. To minimize disease spread, avoid harvesting or handling vines when leaves are wet.

Harvest and Storage

You can pick cucumbers whenever they're big enough to use. Check vines daily as the fruit starts to appear because they enlarge quickly. Vines produce more fruit the more you harvest. To remove the fruit, use a knife or clippers, cutting the stem above the fruit. Pulling them may damage the vine. Don't let the cucumbers get oversized or they will be bitter, and will also keep the vine from producing more. Yellowing at the bottom (blossom end) of a cucumber signals overripeness; remove the fruit immediately. Harvest lemon cucumbers just before they begin turning yellow. Although they are called lemon cucumber because the little oblong or round fruits turn yellow and look like a lemon, by the time the fruit turns yellow it may be a little too seedy for most tastes.

You can keep harvested cucumbers in the refrigerator for 7 to 10 days, but use them as soon as possible after picking for best flavor. If you don't eat a slicing cucumber all at once, cover the unused portion in plastic wrap to prevent dehydration in the refrigerator. In fact, it's a good idea to wrap your whole cucumbers in plastic or store them in a zipper bag in the fridge to keep them crisp.

Cucumbers grown on a trellis are clean and easy to pick. Use a trellis slender enough for tendrils to grab. Cattle panels work beautifully for this purpose.Set cucumber transplants at the base of your trellis, and mulch after planting unless the soil could use a little more warming. Cucumbers bear male and female flowers. Female blooms have a small swelling at the base, the makings of a fruit.Cucumbers on a trellis are clean and easy to pick. Use a trellis small enough for tendrils to grab.Short vines make this plant ideal for a variety of containers.

FAQs

I read that cucumbers can be planted in hills. How do I do this?

Make a hill before planting the cucumber. Just a small rise in the ground is adequate. Build the hill, or mound, about a foot in diameter and about three inches high; this is to drain water from around the stem. Plant the cucumber in the mound.

Should you stake cucumbers?

Stakes or cages hold plants up from the ground. Cucumber vines have little tendrils that will grab a string or wire and climb up a wire cage or trellis. Staking makes it easier to pick the cucumbers and keeps them cleaner than if they are on the ground.

Which varieties of cucumbers can be grown in containers?

Use our bush-type cucumber because it is more compact and is bred for containers and small gardens. The vines do not grow as long as standard types.

My cucumbers bloomed but failed to set fruit. Why does this happen?

This is a pollination problem. The flowers must be pollinated to set fruit. Did you use a pesticide that might have killed bees that pollinate the flowers? Look to see if any bees are visiting your plants in the morning. This is when they are most active.

Why do my cucumbers taste bitter?

Some varieties grown under stressful conditions — weather that is too warm or too cool, poor soil fertility, or disease — can develop a bitter flavor. The same thing will happen to fruit that is left on the vine too long and is overmature. To help minimize the potential for bitterness, plant varieties that are not prone to becoming bitter, such as Armenian cucumber, lemon cucumber, small pickling varieties (like Boston pickling), or “burpless” slicing varieties.

It is cold in the spring where I live. How do I protect my cucumbers from the chill?

Cucumbers are sensitive to frost. Plant at least two weeks after all danger of frost has passed. You can use plastic sheeting on the ground to help retain the earth's heat. You can also cover plants with a row cover until they start blooming, if needed. After flowers appear you have to uncover them for the bees.

How often should I water my cucumbers?

Water often enough to keep the soil slightly moist all the time. Cucumbers will be small and can taste bitter if they get stressed for water. Mulch the soil around the plants to keep in moisture. It also keeps the fruit clean.

When should I harvest pickling type cucumbers?

Pickling cucumbers should be harvested when the fruit reaches 3 to 4 inches in length; for big pickles let them get 6 to 7 inches long if they are still tender.

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The 7 Secrets To Growing Cucumbers

When it comes to growing cucumbers, following a few key tips can make all the difference between struggling plants, or a massive harvest.

And if you love cucumbers, a big harvest means plenty of cukes for salads, fresh eating, pickling and more! Here is a look at 7 key tips to help you grow your best crop ever:

#1 Plant For Early Morning Sun

Cucumbers need a lot of sunlight to produce a bumper crop. Cucumbers rely heavily on photosynthesis to build strong, sturdy and productive vines. A process that is centered around the sun entirely.

Locate your crop in an area that receives a minimum of 8 hours of sunlight each day. And if at all possible, make sure your plants receive early morning sunlight.

Check Out Our Podcast On How To Grow Amazing Cucumbers!

Early morning sunlight helps to dry off vines and foliage from early morning dew. Dew that if left to linger, can create the perfect conditions for mildew and blight.

#2 Great Soil = Great Cucumbers

Whether planted in the ground or in containers, cucumbers need rich, fertile soil to grow strong and thrive. In addition, that soil needs to be light and airy to allow for good drainage.

When planting, add in 6 to 8 cups (a few shovels) of compost to each planting hole. Compost adds vital nutrients that can easily be absorbed by the cucumber plants. But even more, it also loosens the soil to create excellent drainage.

Cucumbers thrive in loose, fertile soil that drains well. By adding compost at planting time, you can help to build soil with those exact qualities.

From pitchforks to shovels and more, there are a wide range of gardening tools that can work well to work the compost in.

Want to build even more power? Add in a quarter cup of worm castings to the compost. The worm castings / compost combo can make a huge difference in the health and productivity of plants.

#3 Plant In Mounds

When planting directly in the soil, plant your crop in slightly tapered hills. In containers, make sure the primary stem is planted above the surrounding soil as well.

Cucumber plants are highly susceptible to rot. But a bit of “raised planting” helps keep the main plant stem out of sitting water during heavy rains or watering.

Plant cucumbers in slightly tapered mounds to keep stems from rotting in wet soil.

Create tapered mounds approximately 18″ in diameter, that are 3″ to 4″ high in the middle. And remember – add in that compost!

#4 Transplants Vs. Direct Seeding

Although cucumbers can be grown easily by direct seeding, we prefer starting our seeds early and transplanting. The added growth and strength of a transplant gives the plant a better chance to avoid and fight dreaded cucumber beetle attacks.

Transplants can help give you a better chance against cucumber beetles than direct seeding.

When planting, plant two transplants per cucumber mound. If seeding, plant 3 seeds and thin to the 2 strongest after a few weeks. By growing multiple vines per mound, they intertwine for added strength.

#5  Be Careful What You Plant Nearby

What you plant around your cucumbers will play an important role in their productivity. One thing to avoid for sure is growing cucumbers near potatoes.  

Potatoes release a substance in the soil that greatly hinders the growth of cucumbers. And planting them nearby can have devastating effects on your cucumber crop.

Planting radish seeds around your cucumber plants an help stave off beetle attacks.

But there are some crops that are highly beneficial, like radishes. When grown nearby or with cucumbers, radishes help to repel harmful insects like cucumber beetles and aphids that attack tender cucumber plants.

When planting cucumbers, simply seed 5 to 10 radish seeds on the edges of your mounds. The seeds germinate fast, and will help stave away the beetles. (See: Companion Planting 101)

#6 Crop Rotation

Cucumbers, much like tomatoes and peppers, can easily develop soil borne disease when planted in the same space year after year.

Rotate your crop each season to help keep plants healthy and strong.

Rotate your crop to a new location in the garden each season. This allows the soil to recover, minimizes disease, and reduces the possibility for long-term infestation.

For best results, wait at least three years before rotating back to plant cucumbers in the same location.

#7 Harvest Regularly

Once cucumber plants begin to grow and produce,  they need to be picked on a regular basis to continue to produce.

When overloaded with a harvest, plants will instead put their energy towards making existing fruit larger, and not into producing new blooms.  

Harvest regularly to keep the energy of plants concentrated on producing new blooms.

In addition, cucumbers left on the vine too long will become woody, full of seeds, and bitter. Check plants daily, cukes can go from 2″ inches to 12″ in just a day or two!

A bit of slow and steady fertilizing can help to keep plants producing as well. Apply a light dose of compost tea or organic fertilizer ever 2 weeks until plants begin to form their first cucumbers. Once they begin to fruit, fertilizing can cease. Product Link : Dr. Earth’s Organic Fertilizer

There you have it, seven huge secrets for growing cucumbers successfully. Now get out there and grow your best crop ever!

Happy Gardening! – Jim and Mary

As always, feel free to email us at [email protected] with comments, questions, or to simply say hello! You can sign up for our free email list in the subscribe now box in the middle of this article. Follow us on Facebook here : OWG Facebook. This article may contain affiliate links.

Cultivation of cucumbers in the country in the open field

Cucumber is a very common crop. In its composition, it consists of more than nine-tenths of water, but it contains many substances and trace elements necessary for life. Cucumber juice is used for various purposes - from medicinal and culinary to cosmetic. Cucumbers help to remove decay products and toxic radicals from the body.

Since it belongs to the gourd family, it is a warm and moisture-loving plant. His homeland is the central part of India, therefore, for successful cultivation and good harvests, it is necessary to create conditions that correspond to the climate of his homeland. The taste of cucumber is so good that it is widely used in cooking. An interesting fact is that cucumbers are traditionally eaten unripe.

Site selection

The requirements for the site where cucumbers will be grown in the country do not depend on the method by which it is planned to germinate their seeds - seedlings or direct planting in the ground. From the north side, as well as from the side of the most frequent winds, the site should be protected by some tall and dense plants. Legumes, corn or potatoes are suitable as a natural fence. They coexist well with cucumbers and do not lead to possible pollination problems. From the south, the site should be open to sunlight; there should not be any shading on the site. Legumes or nightshade crops such as potatoes, peas or tomatoes are good precursors to cucumbers. It is not advisable to grow cucumbers for more than two years in one place, since the soil will be so depleted that even the application of organic fertilizers will not help.

If the garden plot slopes from north to south, the conditions for cucumbers become even more favorable, since even a slight slope raises the temperature in the plot by several degrees. The presence of natural plant barriers in the form of corn or sunflower generally makes it possible to create a small zone with its own microclimate on the cucumber plot, where the temperature of the air and the earth will be 3-4 ° C higher than in other parts of the garden. Cucumber beds are located from west to east. The optimal size of the beds: width no more than 100 cm, height about 25 cm; the length is not limited by anything.

In order to grow cucumbers in the country without problems, the soil under them must be loose (density no more than 800g per 1 dm3) and well-drained. Despite their moisture-loving nature, cucumbers do not like excessive stagnant water, which can cause rotting of the root system. If the soil is excessively heavy, then the roots will not be able to penetrate deep and will be located close to the surface; this is undesirable, as it can lead to their death due to sudden changes in temperature or the accumulation of moisture that will not go deeper into solid soil. Therefore, in the case of heavy soil, it needs to be dug up and, if necessary, slightly changed its structure. The soil must be carefully dug up to a depth of 1-2 bayonets. If the soil is clayey, it must be fertilized with a small amount of organic fertilizers or peat or humus should be added to it.

Different types of soil on the site may require the use of fertilizers. In poor soils, it is necessary to add superphosphate and potash fertilizers - 20 g per 1 sq.m. and 15 g per 1 sq.m. respectively. Cucumbers do not like acidic soils, so in this case, liming the soil may be required: adding 30 to 50 g per 1 sq.m. wood ash or lime. All fertilizers are applied 10-15 days before planting cucumbers to a depth of no more than 10 cm. After that, the earth is leveled and watered.

Cucumber seedlings

The soil for seedlings should differ slightly from the soil of the site where it will be planted, since the plant does not like different soil conditions. The best option is to mix the soil available in the summer cottage with compost and perlite in a ratio of 5: 1: 1.

After the purchase of seeds, they are pre-screened and processed. The largest seeds should be selected, which are then disinfected in a potassium permanganate solution for about 30 minutes. This is followed by washing the seeds and soaking with a damp cloth for several days.

3-4 days after soaking, seeds are planted in peat pots, where they germinate within a week. Seedlings should be moderately watered and covered with foil for the first week. When the first independent leaves appear, the film can be removed. This will lead to a decrease in temperature and slow down the upward growth of seedlings that is undesirable at this stage.

After about a month, the seedlings can be planted outdoors. The timing of planting seedlings depends on the climatic features of a particular region. It is necessary to start planting 1-1.5 months before the temperature in the region reaches 15 ° C, which is optimal for planting cucumbers in open ground.

Cucumber seedlings are planted at the rate of about 15 plants per 1 sq.m. Before planting, it is necessary to harden the seedlings for several days, leaving it for several hours in the open air (the first days during the day, the rest at night).

Planting cucumber seeds in open ground

In open ground, seeds are planted in mid-May. It is advisable to warm the seeds for two hours at a temperature of about 60 ° C before sowing. You should not be afraid that they will die at the same time, on the contrary, in seeds heated in this way, germination increases significantly and fruiting improves. The next stage of processing is soaking the seeds for 12 hours in a solution of mineral fertilizers. The composition of the solution is as follows: 5 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium nitrate are dissolved in 1 liter of water.
When sowing, there is one little trick: the seeds treated in the above way are planted in the wells along with the untreated ones; thus, a kind of "duplication" of plants is carried out. If early shoots (from treated seeds) die from flash frosts or other unexpected factors, then later (untreated) seeds will grow a replacement after a while. This significantly increases the likelihood of successful cultivation of plants.

Planting is carried out on furrows located at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. The distance between the seeds in the furrow should not be less than 4 cm, the planting depth is 1-2 cm. The seeds are sown in pre-moistened soil; watering the seeds after planting should not be done, since the crust formed when the soil dries out blocks the access of oxygen to the seeds.

Care of cucumbers

Young seedlings attract the attention of birds, therefore it is necessary to cover them with special protective devices at an early stage of cultivation; also in the country, you can use means to scare away birds in the form of scarecrows, rattles, etc.
Watering of young plants is carried out in the evening, closer to sunset. Water for irrigation should be warm, water consumption is about 2 liters per 1 sq.m. as soon as the plants begin to close up with stems, it is necessary to thin out the beds. At the same time, only the largest plants are left, the distance between which should not exceed 20 cm.

The beds should have structures for young shoots to climb over. These can be stationary structures in the form of tapestries or ordinary twine tied to a frame of sticks.

About a month after planting, cucumbers begin to bloom. The fruits are tied depending on the beginning of pollination. Therefore, in order to attract bees to cucumbers, it is necessary to plant some plants next to them that attract bees, or to pollinate them manually, using plucked male flowers.

When fruiting begins, watering rates are increased to 3 liters per 1 sq.m. and water daily, regardless of the weather. With proper fertilization in the spring, cucumbers do not need additional feeding. In general, since cucumbers are an early ripening crop, when growing, you should not be very zealous with mineral fertilizers, especially with various types of saltpeter. Nitrates are well absorbed by cucumbers, but they do not always have time to be processed into the stem mass, but go directly to the fruits, which, of course, is a very unpleasant surprise for those who will eat these cucumbers.

In general, after the cucumbers begin to curl along the frame, care for them is very simple and consists in regular watering, as well as removing weeds that interfere with the cucumbers.

Use of borage

Often the climate does not allow growing cucumbers outdoors for a long period. In this case, it is recommended to use special greenhouses for growing cucumbers - the so-called borage. The borage differs from the greenhouse in its size, as a rule, its height does not exceed one meter; in addition, borage designs are usually simpler and almost any material can be used for their manufacture.

Requirements for borage are as follows:

The simplest version of the borage, which you can make with your own hands, is a frame of metal arcs with a diameter of about a meter, dug in at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other and covered with a film. The arcs can be made of thick (about 8 mm in diameter) bent wire or made of any other material such as plastic or wood.

When building a borage plant, it is advisable to fix the arches with the help of transverse crossbars connected to the arches with ordinary wire. The borage should provide several ways of ventilation - from the complete removal of the film to short ventilation intervals, aiming to freshen the air in the greenhouse. As a rule, for this, a film is opened from the end ends of the greenhouse.

Plants should not be planted too densely in the borage, and it is also desirable to remove excess side shoots.

Growing cucumbers in a barrel

The original way of growing cucumbers is to plant several plants in an iron barrel with a volume of 200 liters. This method of planting allows you not to use the beds for this, in addition, the place of cultivation can be any; important is the convenience in caring for cucumbers, since there is no need to bend over the garden bed.

The barrel must first be prepared; for this, in early spring it is necessary to thoroughly clean it and fill it with soil. Large branches and garden debris are placed at the bottom of the barrel - these elements will act as drainage. Next, the barrel is covered with garden soil to about 80% of the height, closed from above and left until the plants are planted. You can optionally add a little organic fertilizer to the topsoil.

It is necessary to make a frame over the barrel, along which young cucumber shoots will curl. There can be a lot of options for the execution of the frame: from a stationary structure welded to a barrel to wooden sticks to which a twine is tied. You can use ready-made plastic nets or trellises.

Planting plants or seeds in a barrel is carried out at the same time as for a simple planting in the ground. Four plants will feel best in a 200 liter barrel. In fact, there may be more of them, but when their number exceeds 6, there may not be enough space for root systems in well-nourished soil.

Further actions for growing and caring for cucumbers and harvesting do not differ in any way from a regular garden. At the end of the season, the soil from the barrel must be evenly distributed over the garden in the country, and the drainage must be disposed of.

3 ways to grow cucumbers in a small area

Your plot is so small that there is nowhere to arrange beds, but you still want to grow vegetables. Our advice will help to adapt any free space for a mini-garden and even collect a good crop of cucumbers.

Here are some effective ways to grow cucumbers in a small area. Today you will learn how to get the maximum benefit in the minimum space.

1. Growing cucumbers on a trellis

Trellised cucumbers are easy to care for and look very neat.

Growing cucumbers on a trellis makes very economical use of available space.

What is it?

Some gardeners, without knowing it themselves, use the following method of growing: to prevent cucumber lashes from spreading on the ground, they are tied up vertically. This is the essence of growing cucumbers on trellises. The latter are special support structures, along which cucumbers subsequently "rise".

This method of growing cucumbers has many undeniable advantages:

Peculiarities of growing cucumbers on trellises

Keep an eye on the plants: until 6 true leaves appear, be sure to pluck all the ovaries. This will lead to a later, but more plentiful, cucumber harvest.

Notice the growth direction of cucumbers and "help" them to occupy the available space on the trellis. If the whips could not catch on their own, tie them with twine or twine.

In order for a lot of cucumbers to ripen and all of them to be even and beautiful, get rid of dried and diseased leaves in time, pinch off male flowers and ugly greens so that the plant does not waste energy on their development.

When the fruits are 6 cm long, harvest them so that the plant does not starve and the following cucumbers do not grow crooked or bitter.

2. Growing cucumbers in a barrel

Cucumbers planted in a barrel look very original and attractive

Growing cucumbers in a barrel has recently become more and more popular, and for good reason, because this method has a lot of advantages:

The best varieties of cucumbers for growing in barrels

Cucumbers ripen in barrels quite quickly, so for this method it is better to choose early-ripening varieties or hybrids:

How to grow cucumbers in a barrel?

Barrels for cucumbers must be prepared in advance. As soon as the snow melts, fill the metal barrels with vegetable food waste, old grass, alternating layers with earth or rotted manure. To speed up the fermentation, spill the layers with EM preparations. Then pour the resulting mass with hot water, cover with a film and leave for 7-10 days.
After this time, the mass will settle - fill the barrels again to the top and repeat the procedures until the beginning of May.

Never put meat or fish waste in the cucumber barrel.

In the 10th of May, sprinkle about 10 cm of soil on plant residues, scald it with boiling water, pour a pink solution of potassium permanganate and plant cucumber seeds (6-8 per barrel). Cover the barrel with cellophane or black tape.

If you place a small bucket (1 liter capacity) in the center of the barrel and regularly fill it with water, cucumbers will grow by leaps and bounds.

When 3 leaves appear on the seedlings, attach a frame of arcs to the barrel, along which cucumber lashes will later curl.
By the middle of June, when it will be possible to remove the shelter, the barrel will be only 3/4 filled with earth (it will settle again), and the whips of cucumbers will already reach the metal arcs. After they grow over the edge of the barrel and be outside.

The most important point at this stage is the correct and regular watering of the plants. There is no need to pinch them or weed weeds.

3. Growing cucumbers in bags

It is convenient and pleasant to harvest from bag-beds - the fruits are beautiful and clean

Vertical beds for cucumbers can be organized in bags or bags. The advantages of this method include:

True, it is worth noting that for growing cucumbers in this way, some materials are needed, as well as time to create such a vertical bed. In addition, in bags there is a risk of waterlogging the soil, and therefore you need to be very careful when watering the plants.

How to make a "bag" for growing cucumbers?

Sugar bags of 100-120 l are ideal for this growing method. In addition, to create a suitable structure, you will need:

Nail some nails to the top of a wooden stick to attach fishing line or rope to. In each tube, make holes along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Place the selected bag or bag in the desired area and fill to the top with earth. Place a wooden stake in the middle of the bag, and place hollow tubes around. Make small cuts on one side of the bag. Plant 3 seedlings in each bag.

Hollow tubes will be your irrigation system - pour water or liquid fertilizers into them.

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