Gladiolus in garden
How to Plant & Care for Gladiolus
Plant gladiolus in spring for spectacular cut flowers all summer long By Anne Balogh
Photo by: Shannon Marie Ferguson / Shutterstock.
Gladiolus flowers are a gold standard in the florist trade, but they are also easy and economical to grow at home. Avid glad fans often fill entire rows or garden beds with them for use in bouquets, and others choose to keep them with other perennial flowers in the garden—where hummingbirds really love them!
On this page: Basics | Types | Planting | Care | Pictures | Cut & Display Glads | How & Where to Buy Glad Corms
On this page:
- BASICS
- TYPES
- PLANTING GLADIOLUS
- GLADIOLUS CARE
- GERBERA DAISY PICTURES
- HOW TO CUT & DISPLAY GLADIOLUS
- HOW & WHERE TO BUY GLADIOLUS
BASICS
Botanical name:
Gladiolus xhortulanus
Common names:
Common gladiolus, garden glad, and sword lily (because of the long, pointed leaves)
Zones:
Perennial in zones 8-10. Can be grown as annuals in zones 2-7. Some G. nanus types are hardy to zone 4 or 5.
Plant type:
Although often labeled as “summer bulbs,” gladioli are herbaceous perennials that grow from bulb-like corms covered with a fibrous papery skin.
Exposure:
Full sun
Height:
1 to 5 feet
Bloom time:
From early summer until frost, depending on the cultivar and when the corms are planted.
Flower characteristics:
Glads come in nearly any color and shade (except for true blue) in both solid and multicolored forms. Depending on the cultivar, the petals may be frilly, ruffled, semi-ruffled or plain, and the size can range from miniature (under 2 ½ inches in diameter) to gigantic (over 5 inches). The flowers are typically arranged on only one side of the stem and open in succession from the bottom up, with the largest flower at the base.
TYPES OF GLADIOLUS
You’ll find countless cultivars of glads in local garden centers and catalogs, all derived from various combinations of more than 250 species, most of which are native to southern and central Africa and Eurasia.
The three main glad groups are:
- Grandiflora: The largest group of garden cultivars. These hybrids are the showiest of the bunch, with blooms up to 6 inches wide and the most extensive range of colors.
- Nanus: Another group commonly grown in the garden. Miniature hybrids that tend to be more cold-tolerant than their taller cousins.
- Primulinus: Have daintier hooded flowers and very narrow leaves.
PLANTING GLADIOLUS
Gladiolus corms ready for planting. Photo by: Longfield Gardens.
When to plant:
Start planting glad corms as early as a month before the average last frost date in your area. Depending on the cultivar, gladiolus take an average of 90 days after planting before they flower. Stretch the blooming season by succession planting corms at two-week intervals through early July and by mixing varieties that mature at different times. Make your last planting about 12 weeks before the first frost date.
Where to plant:
Plant glads in flower beds and borders, vegetable gardens, cut flower gardens, and even containers. All they need is a sunny location that is protected from wind to avoid damage to the tall flower stalks. Use them to fill spaces and add vertical interest in an established flower garden, as they will bloom in late summer when many other flowers fade.
Planting depth and spacing:
Gladiolus corms can vary in size, depending on the type. For best results, follow the recommendations given on the package. Always plant corms with the flatter side facing downward, and the pointed end facing up.
Soil:
Glads aren’t fussy and will thrive in many different soil types, but well-drained soil is a must. Before planting, work the soil several inches deeper than the planting depth of the corm and amend it with organic matter if necessary.
For more on planting and storing bulbs:
Bulbs 101
GLADIOLUS CARE
Staking:
Glads that grow 3 to 4 feet or taller will probably need to be staked or caged to prevent the stalks from bending and breaking.
Set the stakes in the ground at planting time to avoid damage to the corms.
Watering:
After planting, water glads thoroughly and then keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. During dry weather, soak the ground thoroughly to supply the equivalent of an inch of rainfall per week. To help conserve moisture and control weeds, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your plants. (See How to Mulch and Avoid Mistakes.)
Pest problems:
The biggest threat to gladioli are thrips, tiny flying insects that feed on the foliage and flower buds. Thrips are hard to spot without a magnifying glass, so watch your glads for signs of thrip damage, which includes silvery streaks and small white patches on the leaves and buds that fail to open.
Winter care & storage:
After a glad blooms, the original corm begins to wither away and a new one forms for the next year’s growth. In areas where gladiolus aren’t hardy, you can overwinter the newly formed corms until the following spring by digging them up in fall once the foliage has been killed by frost.
Here are the basic steps:
- Cut the flower stalks off just above each corm, brush or wash off the soil, and then allow the corms to dry in a well-ventilated area for a couple weeks.
- Separate the new corms from the old ones, layer them in a cardboard box with newspaper in between, and store them in a dark, dry, cool area (ideally 35 and 45 degrees F).
- Some corms also produce cormels—smaller plantlets that can be separated from the parent and grown into new plants. However, cormels often won’t produce blooms for several years and are best discarded.
- If you have a variety of glads, label the corms by color or cultivar before storing.
- Check your corms periodically to make sure they are in good condition. If they have started to sprout new growth, move them to a cooler spot. If you notice signs of rot, the packing material may be too moist.
- If you don't want to fuss with digging up and storing the corms each year, simply treat them as annuals and buy new ones every spring.
GLADIOLUS PICTURES
Swipe to view slides
Photo by: grjo02022 © Visions BV, Netherlands / Johan Groot.
Gladiolus ‘Black Beauty’
Why we love it: Nearly black blooms with deep burgundy highlights are as plush as velvet. Especially dramatic when paired in the garden or a vase with a pure white glad, such as ‘White Prosperity.’
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 70 to 100
Also try: ‘Espresso’ and ‘Black Jack’, which also have luxuriant burgundy-red flowers.
Photo by: Longfield Gardens.
Gladiolus ‘Green Star’
Why we love it: In the mixed flower garden and in floral arrangements, this striking glad with ruffled blooms the color of lime sherbet is a refreshing complement to fuchsia, dark purple, orange, and other bold flower colors.
Height: 3 to 4 feet tall
Days until bloom: 70 to 75
Also try: ‘Kiev,’ a showy chartreuse-green glad with pink highlights and impressive 4-inch-diameter blooms.
Photo by: visi04474 © Visions BV, Netherlands / VisionsPictures & Photography.
Gladiolus ‘Peter Pears’
Why we love it: Velvety blooms the color of peach sorbet open to reveal bright strawberry-red centers. Its tall upright spikes and strappy foliage also add a strong vertical element to the garden.
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 60 to 100
Also try: ‘Boone’, a hardy zone 5 glad with apricot flowers and yellow throats marked with red.
Photo by: Shannon Marie Ferguson / Shutterstock.
Gladiolus ‘Priscilla’
Why we love it: Lovely, ladylike, and utterly enchanting, with frilly white flowers and light yellow centers, all fringed in hot pink.
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 70 to 75
Also try: ‘Charming Beauty’, a miniature glad with bubble-gum pink florets and bright pink accents.
Photo by: Roger Cope / Alamy Stock Photo.
Gladiolus ‘Princess Margaret Rose’
Why we love it: Towering spikes of yellow-orange blooms edged in red heat up the summer garden with all the tropical colors of a Tequila Sunrise.
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 60 to 100
Also try: 'Jester', with ruffled apricot-yellow petals and bright orange-red throats.
Photo by: Del Boy / Shutterstock.
Gladiolus nanus ‘Prins Claus’
Why we love it: This hardy miniature glad puts on a dramatic display year after year, first showing off its pure white petals then opening to reveal bright splotches of fuchsia. As a bonus, the corms of this zone 4 perennial can overwinter in the ground.
Height: 24 to 30 inches tall
Bloom time: May through July
Also try: 'Elvira’, another cold-hardy glad with pale salmon-pink blooms accented by smudges of deep pink.
Photo by: JRJfin / Shutterstock.
Gladiolus ‘White Prosperity’
Why we love it: Pristine snow-white flowers and ruffled petals up to 4 inches across make this glad one of the most versatile in the garden or vase. Each statuesque spike bears 18 to 20 flowers.
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 70 to 75
Also try: ‘Albus’, a diminutive pure-white nanus glad under 2 feet tall.
Photo by: visi08411 © Visions BV, Netherlands / VisionsPictures & Photography.
Gladiolus ‘Wine and Roses’
Why we love it: Even more romantic than red roses, a poetic composition of soft, ruffled pink blooms embellished with wine-red hearts framed by a halo of white. Also matures early, revealing its loveliness just a couple of months after planting.
Height: 4 to 5 feet tall
Days until bloom: 65 to 70
Also try: ‘Mon Amour’, another dreamy tricolored glad in softer tones of pink, pale yellow, and ivory.
HOW TO CUT & DISPLAY GLADIOLUS FLOWERS
- Generally, glads will remain attractive for at least a week in a vase; but for the greatest longevity, cut the stems when only a few flowers are open at the bottom of the flower spike. The rest of the florets will open gradually over the next few days. Pull off the bottom florets when they fade.
- Cut the flower stalks in the early morning or late evening—when temperatures are coolest and the stems are well hydrated. If you plan to store and replant your corms, leave as many leaves as possible on the plant to help nourish the corm for the following spring.
- Although glads look stunning arranged in a tall vase, you can also cut the blooms from the stems and arrange them in a shallow vase or bowl for an attractive, low-profile centerpiece.
HOW & WHERE TO BUY GLADIOLUS CORMS
- You can purchase glad corms individually, but it’s often more convenient to buy a color-coordinated mix that will look harmonious in a vase or the garden with little effort.
Many bulb suppliers offer an array of popular color schemes, such as pastels, bright summer blends, rainbow mixes, and more. - Look for corms that are at least an inch in diameter and ones that are relatively tall and plump rather than wide and flat. Larger corms will produce larger, more robust blooms.
Online resources include:
- Breck's
- Eden Brothers
- Spring Hill Nursery
- Michigan Bulb Company
- K. Van Bourgondien
- Burpee
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Growing Gladiolus Plants - Tips On Caring For Gladiolus
Home › Ornamental Gardens › Bulbs › Gladiolas
Gladiolas
By: Heather Rhoades
Image by Jurgute
Gladiolus plants grow wonderfully in the warm weather of summer. You can produce these flowers in sequence by planting some corms every few weeks or so. Learning how to take care of gladiolus will reward you with a huge array of colors and they also work out great for cut flowers.
Let’s look at how to grow gladiolus.
How to Grow Gladiolus
Gladiolus corms look like oversized crocus corms. They have a brown fiber wrapper with a small flat bottom. Sometimes they already have pointy shoots showing at the top.
Follow these growing tips to help with care of gladiolus:
- Gladiolus prefer well-drained and even sandy soil. They also like sunny locations.
- You will want to plant the gladiolus deeper than usual because they have a tall sheaf of leaves. This will help anchor them against strong winds that might blow them over to the ground.
Gladiolus – How to Plant
With gladiolus, how to plant is just a few simple steps:
- First dig a trench about 8 inches (20 cm.) deep. Make it long enough that you can space your corms about half a foot (15 cm.) apart. That spacing might seem a bit strange to you, so placing them in a semi-circle or oval will help. Make sure the space is large enough to handle about ten corms for a nice display.
- You will want to fertilize the corms with 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer. Put the recommended amount in the bottom of the planting area, but be sure to mix the soil and fertilizer well so you don’t burn the corm. Add a layer of unfertilized soil before placing the corm into the trench.
- You should start your planting of your gladiolus in mid-spring. From that point, make some new plantings every two weeks. They take 70 to 100 days to grow and flower so planting every couple of weeks gives you flowers right on through summer. If these flowers will be exposed to wind, you will definitely want to stake them.
- Stop planting your gladiolus in summer, around mid-July.
- Keep your gladiolus watered well during their growing period and make sure to mulch the soil around them to keep it moist.
Gladiolus are only completely hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 11. In zones 6 to 7, they thrive if the bulbs are protected by a thick mulch throughout the winter.
Proper care of gladiolus requires the use of fertilizer. As they come up, you can fertilize the new gladioli batches when you see the flower spikes start to show. After you pick the flowers, you can fertilize again. When you fertilize, just add the granules next to the flower, then scratch the soil with a cultivator to mix it a little.
How to Care for Gladiolus in the Winter
Rather than leaving the corms in the ground to winter, you can dig the corms up for storage four to six weeks after you pick the flowers.
- Dig the corm up and shake as much soil as you can off the corm. Trim back the leaves to within an inch (2.5 cm.) of the corm itself.
- Let the corm dry up for about a week. After that, you can brush off remaining soil.
- Store your gladiolus in a dry, dark, cool place in a mesh bag or old pantyhose to prevent moisture from aiding mildew to grow. Also protect them when you store them because mice love gladiola bulbs.
Gladiolus plants are a lovely addition to any garden.
Knowing how to grow gladiolus and proper care of gladiolus will ensure that these delightful flowers will grow well in your garden.
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Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden Plants Returned: Last amendments:
Content
- Listen to article
- Briefly on landing and care for gladioli
- Features of cultivation
- Planting gladioli
- Care for gladioli
- long-term favorites - we will help you succeed in this!
The tricks of growing gladiolus begin with the purchase of bulbs.
When choosing gladioli for planting, take note of a little secret: a big bulb does not mean better flowering! The fact is that the most productive flower stalks are formed from a young and healthy bulb. nine0007 How to count an old gladiolus bulb? It is flatter and with a large bottom. Please note that visual comparisons of shapes and sizes only work within the same variety, aged bulbs of different varieties will look different.
How to choose the perfect site for planting gladiolus so that they will delight you with lush and long flowering? What to look for when planting gladioli in the garden?
Is it true that gladiolus must be repotted every year to bloom luxuriantly? How does the type of soil affect the depth of planting gladioli? How to protect the plant from fungal infections? What to do so that gladioli do not germinate in the middle of winter? How to properly arrange wintering for gladioli in a city apartment? nine0007
Read our article.
Listen to article
Brief information about planting and caring for gladioli
- Flowering: from early summer (early varieties) to early autumn.
- Fit: in spring.
- Digging: first half of autumn.
- Storage: at 5-10 ˚C.
- Lighting: bright light.
- Soil: slightly acidic (pH 6.5-6.8), structural chernozem, sandy loam or light loam.
- Watering: very abundant (10-12 l/m²), frequent (once a week).
- Top dressings: liquid, organic and mineral. Root : 1st - in the period of appearance of 1-2 leaves, 2nd - at the stage of development of 5-6 leaves, 3rd - before the start of bud formation. Foliar : at the beginning of growth and during budding.
- Reproduction: seeds, buds, corms.
- Pests: thrips, meadow mites, cabbage scoops, wireworms, mole crickets, slugs.
- Diseases: fusarium, gray mold, sclerotinia, septoria, bacterial scab, cancer, penicillosis, curvularia, smut, viral diseases.
Read more about growing gladiolus below fields. But in ancient Rome, majestic gladiolus flowers already adorned the gardens of the patricians. Nowadays, more and more people want to grow them. In this article, we will introduce those who are just going to start growing gladioli with the rules and features of caring for these amazingly beautiful flowers. nine0007 - First , do not grow gladioli in one place for more than two years, transplant them to another place in the third year, observing the grower's golden rule - crop rotation.
- Secondly, , when transplanting gladioli, select a garden site with a different soil composition. For example, if at first gladioli grew in sandy soil, transplant them a couple of years later into light alumina. nine0012
- Thirdly, , buy planting material adapted to your climate zone, as gladioli do not like to go from a warm climate to a cool and rainy one.
When buying bulbs from Holland, be prepared for the fact that they will decorate your flower bed only once, but it will be a beautiful sight. - Fourth , do not plant babies and large bulbs next to each other, because the large ones will oppress the small ones. Plant in order: from small to large. The largest bulbs are best planted separately. nine0012
- Fifth , observe the correct planting depth: in light soils - to a depth equal to four bulb diameters, in heavy soils - equal to three. If you plant not deep enough, you will have to tie up the arrow, too deep - the gladiolus may not bloom at all.
- Sixth , three to five days before planting, clean the daughter bulb from dense scales, otherwise it may not germinate, and after planting, water every other day.
- Seventh , the gladiolus plant loves light, so late varieties may not bloom at all in the shade. Only early varieties can be planted in shade and partial shade, but then do not expect early flowering.
- Eighth , the area with gladioli must be ventilated, otherwise fungal diseases may occur.
- Ninth If your gladioli grow in sandy loam, practice foliar feeding, that is, spraying fertilizer on the leaves.
- Tenth , in summer, gladioli are watered once a week, but very plentifully. If the heat has dragged on, then in order to combat overheating of the soil, water them every evening, followed by loosening the soil, hilling and removing weeds.
- Eleventh , cleaning and storage of corms is a very important point, treat it responsibly.
- Do you need to prune paniculate hydrangea in the fall or should you wait until spring?
- Gladiolus: growing in containers
- Crocuses: growing in the garden, types and varieties
- Read related topics on Wikipedia
- Peculiarities and other plants of the Iridaceae family nine0012
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- 1 Cultivation brief
- 2 Basic cultivation rules
- 3 Planting of gladiolus bulbs in open soil
- 3.1 Preparation of bulbs for landing
- 3.2 Rules for landing
4.1 Care for gladioli - 4.1 ELAVING
- 4.4.
Growing tips
First learn the eleven must-have rules without which it will be difficult for you to succeed in growing and caring for gladiolus.
Preparing for planting
3-4 weeks before planting, peel the corms carefully from dense covering scales, without damaging the sprouts, remove all diseased or partially affected bulbs. You can leave only the bulbs, slightly affected by sclerotinia or scab, cutting out the lesion and treating the sore spot with greenery.
After removing the scales and processing the sections, the gladiolus bulbs are laid out in one layer with the sprout upwards and kept in a warm, bright room so that the shoot germinates.
nine0007 Before planting, corms are treated with chemicals to neutralize thrips and fungi, immersing them for 1-2 hours in a 0.3% solution of potassium permanganate or for 1 hour in a 0.3% solution of foundationazole. If the treatment is carried out immediately before planting, then soak the bulbs in a solution (0.5 g of potassium permanganate per 1 liter of water) for half an hour and then plant immediately without rinsing.
In the photo: Processing bulbs in potassium permanganate
Gladiolus babies also need to be prepared for planting. nine0085 10-15 days before planting, select buds with a diameter of 7-8 mm (if the variety of gladiolus is not large, you can take a smaller baby) with visible root tubercles and remove the hard shell from them. Then lay out in one layer in boxes and place in diffused light. Sprouted babies for disinfection, hold for 9 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 1 liter of water).
Planting gladiolus
Growing gladiolus requires the grower to follow the rules determined by the biological characteristics of the plant.
Since gladioli are light and heat-loving, the site for their landing must be chosen in accordance with these requirements. nine0007 So, selection and preparation of a site for planting gladioli : light, draft-protected sites with well-drained soil are preferred. The more northerly the area, the lighter the site should be, since even a barely noticeable shading delays the growth and flowering of the gladiolus. In addition, it is unacceptable to plant gladioli in areas with high standing groundwater. In the southern regions, shading is permissible at noon. The site should be level or slope slightly (5°) to the south so that excess water can run off. nine0007
In the photo: Planted gladiolus
Soil acidity is also the most important component of success in growing gladioli. Slightly acidic soil, pH 6.5-6.8, is considered optimal. At higher acidity, the tips of the leaves of the plant darken and wither, and the flowers do not open well, fusarium appears.
In an alkaline environment, the iron contained in the soil becomes insoluble and inaccessible to the roots of the gladiolus, therefore, the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves of the plant slows down, and they begin to turn yellow. To neutralize acidic soil, chalk, dolomite flour or eggshells are used, which are applied to the soil at 150-200 g per 1 m 2 when digging. Rules for planting and caring for dahlias in the open field
The best soil structure for gladiolus , except for structural chernozem, is light loam or sandy loam. You can create such a structure by adding sand to heavy loam, clay to sandy soil and adding humus and rotted compost. If the site warms up well, it must be dug up immediately before planting the bulbs. In arid areas, in order to retain moisture in the soil, the main digging is done in the fall, and before planting the bulbs, the ground is only slightly loosened. It is good if vegetables, legumes or perennial herbs grew on the site before the gladioli, but it is not recommended to plant flowers in the place where root crops or asters grew.
The width of the ridge is approximately 1-1.2 m. If you already know in autumn where gladioli will be planted in spring, add dry phosphorus (100 g of superphosphate per m 2 ) and potash (30-40 g of potassium chloride per m 2 ) fertilizers into the soil of this area and dig plot. Non-chlorine potash fertilizers (potassium sulfate or potassium magnesia) are best applied after winter before spring digging. Autumn digging should be ten centimeters deeper than spring. nine0007
Gladiolus are planted from late April to mid-May although allowances must always be made for climate and weather. We have already written about the depth of placement of the bulbs in the soil, but we recall: a large bulb of gladiolus is deepened by 10-15 cm, a small one by 8-10 cm. We plant large ones at a distance of 15 cm from each other, small ones - after 7-8 cm Distance between rows – 20-25 cm.
Moss does not allow rot to appear, retains moisture in the soil, not allowing it to dry out even in extreme heat. nine0007 Care of gladiolus
Planted gladiolus must be carefully cared for. When the seedlings reach a height of ten centimeters, try to mulch the bed with a layer of humus, 5 cm thick: it will protect the soil from dehydration and overheating and give the bulbs nourishment when watering.
Gladiolus should be watered once a week early in the morning or late in the evening, very plentifully - 10-12 liters per m 2 . It is better to pour water into inter-row furrows 3-5 cm deep to prevent drops from falling on the leaves of plants, followed by loosening the soil to a depth of 5-6 cm so that a crust does not form on it, and hilling gladioli. nine0007
It is desirable to loosen the soil at least once a decade, regardless of the presence or absence of precipitation. In the very heat, water gladioli every 3-4 days, otherwise the peduncle will become sluggish, and the last flowers will dry up without blooming.
When buds appear on the arrows, tie flower stalks to pegs if necessary, and remember to remove dried flowers so that the plants do not waste nutrients on the process of seed ripening that you do not need. Gladiolus care includes weeding , also as needed, which occurs on average 3-4 times during the summer. Make sure that weeds do not drown out seedlings, otherwise flowering of gladioli may be at risk. In addition, in areas overgrown with weeds, the risk of disease and damage to gladioli by slugs is greater.
Fertilizing gladioli with mineral fertilizers is carried out at different stages of growth. The first feeding, nitrogenous, is carried out during the period when the first 2-3 leaves appear. To do this, 25 g of ammonium sulfate or 25-35 g of ammonium nitrate, or 25 g of urea are added per 1 m 2 of dry soil. As a result of a lack of nitrogen, the plant has pale leaves, while an excess, on the contrary, gives vigorous growth and juicy color to plants, but, unfortunately, leads to a delay in flowering and reduces resistance to fungal diseases.
The second top dressing, nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus, should be done after the appearance of 5-6 leaves by applying 15-20 g of superphosphate, 10-20 g of ammonium sulfate and 10-20 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2 soil.
The third dressing, potassium-phosphorus, is given to plants before budding, immediately after the appearance of the peduncle: per 1 m 2 - 30-40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride.
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Gladiolus also needs organic fertilizer , which is best applied in liquid form, as this allows fertilizer to be delivered directly to the root system. At the beginning of plant growth, you can use an infusion of bird droppings (3 buckets of droppings are infused in 4-5 buckets of water for 10-12 days, then one liter of this infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and the inter-row furrow is watered, followed by loosening the soil and hilling).
Liquid mineral top dressing is carried out every 2-3 weeks, but after August 15, you need to stop feeding gladioli. Do not use horse manure as fertilizer. nine0007 Good results are obtained by foliar top dressing , that is, spraying with a solution of mineral substances of plant leaves, which accelerates the flowering of gladioli and increases their decorative effect. It is best to use solutions of boric acid (0.15 g per 1 liter of water), copper sulfate (0.2 g per 1 liter of water) or a 0.15% potassium permanganate solution for this. The leaves are fed 2-3 times during the summer at the beginning of growth and during the budding period, adding a little soap to the solution and trying to get the composition on both sides of the leaf. nine0007
It is very important to cut gladioli correctly . This should be done with a sharp knife early in the morning or in the evening so that the rest of the peduncle is deeply hidden between the remaining leaves, which should be at least four on the plant, and which should ensure further growth and development of the corm.
When to dig up bulbs
Timely harvesting and storage of gladioli. Gladiolus should be dug up in autumn, from mid-September, when 35-45 days have passed after flowering. Corms ripe for digging have root integumentary scales, children are also covered with dense scales and are easily separated from the mother bulb. You need to dig in dry weather, first the earlier varieties, then the later ones. The last to dig up plantings of small bulbs and children. If you notice that the corms are damaged by black or brown spots, digging up the corms should be done earlier to save them from being attacked by other diseases. nine0007
You can mow the stems before digging up, or you can cut them with secateurs after removing the corms from the soil. Roots are also pruned. Then the earth must be gently shaken off, the children are separated. Corms are placed in boxes with a finely meshed or mesh bottom, each variety separately from the other, and washed under running water.
Then they are disinfected by immersing them in a 1% solution of foundationazole for 20-30 minutes, washed again with water, treated with a 3% solution of potassium permanganate, laid out for three days to dry, then transferred to boxes lined with paper and stored at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, from time to time. turning over time. After 10-15 days, the temperature is reduced to 18-22 ° C. After 30-40 days, corms can be cleaned and sorted. nine0007 How to grow peonies correctly - when to plant, how to care for them
The topmost, dirty scales are removed from the corms and the children are separated. Children of gladiolus - what to do with them? First, they are sorted by grade and size. A large baby is considered to be from 0.8 cm in diameter and more, the average is about 0.6 cm. Then the children are laid out in paper bags, which are stored at a temperature not exceeding 5-6 ° C. It is dangerous to store tubers at a higher temperature, this can lead to loss of germination.
In a city apartment, you can put children in the refrigerator. nine0007 How to store in winter
The period of natural dormancy in gladiolus is 35-40 days, and during this time the corm will not germinate even in the most favorable conditions. But after this period, there is a risk of premature sprouts, and it's winter outside! What to do so that gladioli do not germinate in winter? How to keep gladioli until spring? Gladiolus corms should be stored in a room where the temperature does not exceed 5-10 °C and the humidity is approximately 60-70%. To keep them better, put a few peeled cloves of garlic in a box and at least once a month inspect the bulbs and remove spoiled ones, if any, and also replace old garlic with fresh ones at each inspection. nine0007
The most ideal place to store corms is in a cold cellar or cellar with ventilation, and the most convenient container is boxes with a mesh bottom, in which air circulates, allowing the corms to breathe.
The boxes are best kept on shelves: this is both convenient and space-saving. It is also very good to store corms in bags made from dimensionless tights.
If you have to keep gladioli in the winter in apartment and if you have a "no frost" refrigerator, use the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for storage: just put the corms in airtight containers so that they do not dehydrate during storage. But be sure to wrap them in paper. Closer to spring, the bulbs begin to "breathe", releasing moisture, then they will need to be taken out of the refrigerator, unfolded, dried, wrapped in another paper and placed in the refrigerator again, but in a cooler place. In relatively warm climatic zones, gladioli for the winter can be taken out to an insulated balcony or loggia by folding the corms into boxes or boxes and placing them on a wooden stand. When it gets cold, you can wrap the boxes with a blanket or an old coat. nine0007
If you still have to store corms indoors, try to arrange them in one layer so that they do not touch each other.
The corms, of course, will greatly decrease in volume over the winter, dry out, but if you soak them in a growth stimulator before planting, and then take good care of the gladioli in the garden, then it is likely that they will bloom no worse than other gladioli. Literature
Gladiolus in landscape design
Gladiolus - why they degenerateSections: Garden plants Garden perennials Garden herbaceous plants Garden flowering plants Bulb flowers Plants on G Iris (Iris)
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planting and care in the open field, how to store in winter
The flowering plant gladiolus (Gladiolus), also called skewer, has been cultivated by gardeners for a very long time and with great pleasure.
However, in ancient Greece, 300 years before our era, such a plant was considered a weed grass of wheat fields. But in ancient Rome, gladioli began to be used to decorate patrician gardens. Today, every year such a plant is becoming more and more popular. Contents
- Flowering: from early summer (early varieties) to early autumn.
- 5 Harvesting and storing corms
- 5.1 When to dig bulbs
- 5.2 Basic rules for storing bulbs
Brief description of cultivation
- Flowering . From the first weeks of summer (early varieties) until the beginning of the autumn period.
- Fit . In spring time.
- Bulb Digging . From the beginning to the middle of autumn.
- Storage . In a cool place (from 5 to 10 degrees).
- Illumination . Needs bright sunlight.
- Primer . Sandy loam, structural chernozem or light loam. The soil should be slightly acidic (pH from 6.5 to 6.8). nine0012
- Watering . It is watered on average 1 time in 7 days very abundantly (from 10 to 12 liters of water per 1 square meter of land).
- Fertilizer . Use liquid mineral fertilizers and organics. Foliar top dressing is carried out at the beginning of the growing season and during the formation of buds, and root top dressing: the first - during the formation of 1 or 2 true leaf blades, the second - during the development of 5 or 6 leaf blades, the third - before buds begin to form. nine0012
- Reproduction of . Seed method and vegetative (corms and buds).
- Harmful insects . Thrips, meadow mites, cabbage scoops, wireworms, bears, slugs.
- Diseases . Fusarium, gray mold, sclerotinia, septoria, bacterial scab, cancer, penicillosis, curvularia, smut, viral diseases.
Basic Growing Rules
Before you start growing gladiolus in your garden, you need to familiarize yourself with the 11 most important rules that will help you grow healthy plants with beautiful flowers:
- Such flowers cannot be grown in the same place for more than 2 years. In the third year, a different place is chosen for their planting.
- When transplanting gladioli, try to choose a site whose soil composition will differ from the previous one. For example, if flowers were grown in light black soil, then they can be planted in sandy loamy soil.
- Purchase planting material that has been adapted to the climatic conditions of your region. This is due to the fact that these flowers react extremely negatively if they fall from a warm climate into a damp and cool one. When purchasing planting material from Holland, remember that such gladioli will bloom luxuriantly and very effectively, but only once.
nine0012 - Large bulbs should not be planted near children, as they will oppress them. Planting is recommended to be carried out in order: from small onions to large ones. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing the largest corms and planting them separately.
- It is very important to plant corms at the correct depth. In heavy soils, the bulb is planted to a depth that is equal to 3 of its diameters, and in light soils to four. If you bury the bulb in the soil very deeply, then this can cause a lack of flowering. And if it is deepened to an insufficient depth, then an arrow garter may be needed. nine0012
- When 3-5 days remain before planting the daughter bulbs in open soil, they will need to remove dense scales, otherwise the sprouts may not appear. When they are planted, they are watered once every 2 days.
- This is a photophilous plant. If the late variety is grown in a shaded place, then its flowering can not wait at all. However, early varieties, if desired, can be grown in a shady or semi-shaded place, but in this case the bushes will bloom much later.
- The area where flowers grow must be ventilated, otherwise the bushes may infect fungal diseases.
- If the flowers are grown in sandy loam, they should be fed regularly on the foliage.
- In the summer, the bushes should be watered about once every 7 days, but at the same time quite plentifully. During a long dry period, they are watered daily in the evening, after which the surface of the soil is loosened, bushes are spudded and weeds are pulled out.
- Corms must be dug up and stored properly, and special attention should be paid to this.
Noble handsome man in your flowerbed. Gladiolus: basic rules for growing
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Planting gladiolus bulbs in the open ground
Preparing the bulbs for planting
When there are 20-30 days left before planting the gladiolus bulbs in the ground, you should start preparing them. To do this, they carefully remove dense covering scales, trying not to injure the delicate sprouts.
But for starters, the planting material is sorted out, removing all partially diseased or diseased corms. If they are not very sick with scab or sclerotinia, then they can be left, but at the same time the affected area must be carefully cut out, and the sections will need to be treated with brilliant green. Prepared onions should be placed in a well-lit and warm place, for this they are laid out in 1 layer with sprouts up, as they will have to grow well. nine0007
Before planting the bulbs in the flower bed, they are treated to prevent fungal diseases and thrips, for this, a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3%) is used, in which they are kept from 1 to 2 hours, instead they can be immersed in Fundazol solution (0.3%). If, after processing, gladioli are immediately planted, then they can be planted for 30 minutes. immerse in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per liter of water), the pulled out bulbs are planted in the wells (no need to wash).
Babies also need preparation before boarding.
When 1.5–2 weeks remain before planting in the ground, those buds are selected that reach 0.7–0.8 cm in diameter (smaller children can be taken from medium-sized varieties), while each of them should have a distinct root tubercles are visible. They need to remove the hard shell. After that, the children are laid out in cardboard boxes in 1 layer, which are placed in a well-lit place, but the light should be diffused. After they grow, they are placed for 9 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per liter of water). nine0007
Planting rules
The site for growing such a flower is chosen especially carefully, while taking into account all its features. This culture is warm and light-loving, so the chosen place for planting must necessarily meet these requirements. It is best to choose a sunny site with well-drained soil that is well protected from drafts. The cooler the climate in the region, the more light such flowers need, and if the site is even slightly shaded, this will have an extremely negative effect on the flowering and growth of the bushes.
Areas where groundwater is very close to the soil surface are not suitable for growing gladioli. When cultivating in more southern regions, slight shading of the site is allowed at noon. The surface of the soil can be perfectly flat or have a slight slope of 5 degrees to the south, which will allow excess liquid to drain. nine0007
Pay special attention to the acidity of the soil, as it is very important when cultivating such a plant. It grows best on slightly acidic soil (pH 5.6 to 5.8). If the soil is more acidic, then the tips of the leaf plates of the plant will become dark and begin to dry out, while the opening of flowers will slow down, and the bush itself can be affected by Fusarium. In alkaline soil, the iron contained in it does not dissolve, and therefore it is not absorbed by the root system of the gladiolus, which helps to slow down the production of chlorophyll in the foliage of the flower, as a result of which it begins to turn yellow. To correct acidic soil, dolomite flour, chalk or egg shells should be added to it during digging at the rate of 150 to 200 grams per 1 square meter of land.
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This crop grows very well on soil having the same structure as structural chernozem, and it also develops well on sandy loam or light loam. In order to fix heavy loam, sand should be added to it for digging, and clay, along with rotted manure and humus, is added to sandy soil.
A well-heated area is subjected to digging right before planting gladioli. If prolonged droughts are often observed in the region, then in order to retain more water in the soil, the main digging is carried out in the autumn, while in the spring, before planting gladioli, the surface of the site is slightly loosened. Legumes and vegetables, as well as perennial grasses, are considered the best predecessors of such flowers. And the area where asters and root crops were grown is the least suitable for planting such a flower. nine0007
The ridge should be about 100–120 cm wide. 40 grams of potassium chloride) and phosphorus (per 1 square meter of plot 100 grams of superphosphate) fertilizers, after which digging is carried out.
Before digging the site in the spring, it is recommended to add chlorine-free potash fertilizers to the soil, for example, potassium magnesia or potassium sulfate. In spring, digging is carried out not as deep as in autumn (approximately 10 centimeters less). Bulbs are planted in open ground from the last days of April until the second half of May, but remember that you need to make allowances for the weather and climate. nine0007
When planting corms are buried to the following depth: small - from 8 to 10 centimeters, and large - from 10 to 15 centimeters. In this case, the distance between small onions should be from 7 to 8 centimeters, and between large ones - about 15 centimeters. Row spacing - from 20 to 25 centimeters. The prepared landing groove is shed with Fitosporin solution or clean water, then a layer of sphagnum is laid on the bottom or a layer of river sand about 20 mm thick is poured. Only after that, onions are laid out in it, which are then buried. Sphagnum is able to prevent the appearance of rot and retain water in the soil, so that it will not dry out even on hot days.
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How to plant gladiolus
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Caring for gladiolus
In order for the gladiolus to grow normally and bloom luxuriantly, it needs good care. After the sprouts that have appeared on the flower bed reach a height of about 10 centimeters, the soil surface is covered with a layer of mulch (humus), while its thickness should be about 50 mm. It is able to protect the soil from overheating and drying out, and during watering, the bulbs will receive additional nutrition. nine0007
Watering
On average, watering is carried out 1 time in 7 days in the early morning or in the evening, while 10 to 12 liters of water are taken per 1 square meter of the plot. Before watering between rows, it is recommended to make furrows with a depth of 30 to 50 mm, into which water is poured, in this case, liquid droplets cannot fall on the surface of the foliage. After watering, the soil around the bushes is loosened to a depth of 50 to 60 mm, which will prevent the appearance of a crust on its surface.
After that, the bushes must be spud. The soil should be loosened at least once a decade, no matter how many times it rained during this time. In a hot dry period, the frequency of watering is increased to 1 time in three or four days, if this is not done, then the peduncle will be sluggish, and the flowers in the upper part will dry out even before opening. nine0007
Garter
After the buds form on the arrows, you need to tie them to the pegs (if necessary), also remember that you need to cut off the flowers that have begun to wither in a timely manner, in this case the bush will not waste its strength on formation and ripening seeds.
Weeding
The area where gladioli grow must be weeded in a timely manner. As a rule, flowers are weeded 3 or 4 times in 1 season. Pay special attention to the cleanliness of the site during the appearance of sprouts, since if weeds drown them out, then the bushes may not bloom. And also remember that a large amount of weed grass in the area is often the cause of the appearance of pests or the defeat of gladioli by various diseases.
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Fertilizer
At different stages of growth, such flowers are fed with various mineral fertilizers. During the formation of the first 2 or 3 true leaf plates, fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizer is carried out, namely, 25–35 grams of ammonium nitrate, or 25 grams of ammonium sulfate, or 25 grams of urea are applied to the soil per 1 square meter of plot. If the bushes feel a lack of nitrogen, this will lead to the fact that the color of the foliage will become faded. However, if there is too much nitrogen in the soil, then because of this, the greens will grow very actively to the detriment of flowering, while the bushes will become more susceptible to fungal diseases. The second time the gladiolus should be fed with potassium-nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer, this is done after the formation of 5 or 6 leaf plates, for this, 10-20 grams of ammonium sulfate, 15-20 grams of superphosphate and 10-20 grams of potassium sulfate should be added to the soil based on 1 square meter plot.
The third time they use phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, while top dressing is carried out before the formation of buds, as soon as the peduncle appears, for this, 15–20 grams of potassium chloride and 30–40 grams of superphosphate per 1 square meter of land should be added to the ground. nine0007
Such flowers also need organic matter, which should be applied to the soil in liquid form, since in this case the nutrients will go directly to the root system of the bushes. At the very beginning of growth, if desired, the bushes can be fed with infusion of bird droppings, to prepare it, you need to combine 40-50 liters of water with 30 liters of droppings, the mixture is infused for 10-12 days. The finished infusion is diluted with water (1:10) and the grooves previously made between the rows are shed, then the surface of the soil is loosened, and the bushes are spudded. nine0007
Bushes should be fertilized with mineral fertilizers every 15–20 days, but with the onset of mid-August, all fertilizing is stopped.
Horse manure cannot be used to fertilize this crop. However, it responds well to top dressing on the foliage using a solution of mineral substances, thanks to which the bushes will bloom earlier, and this will also have a positive effect on their decorative effect. For this, a solution of copper sulfate (0.2 grams per liter of water), boric acid (0.15 grams per liter of water) or potassium manganese (0.15%) is perfect. During the season, 2 or 3 foliar top dressings can be carried out, as a rule, this is done at the beginning of growth and during the formation of buds, while before spraying the solution must be mixed with a small amount of soap and try to get the mixture on both surfaces of the leaf plates. nine0007
Cut flowers
It is very important to cut the flowers correctly. Cutting is carried out with a very sharp knife in the evening or in the early morning. At the same time, after cutting, the rest of the peduncle should be deep between the remaining leaf plates, which should remain at least 4 pieces on the bush, this will allow the bulb to continue to grow and develop normally.
Three rules for growing gladioli #urozhainye_gryadki
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Harvesting and storage of corms
When to dig up the bulbs
It is necessary to dig up the gladiolus bulbs in the autumn, when 35 to 45 days will pass after the end of flowering. Bulbs ready for digging have integumentary root scales, while their children are also covered with dense scales, and they themselves effortlessly break away from the mother corm. For digging up gladioli, you should choose a day when the weather is dry. The early varieties are dug first, and then the late ones. Last of all, planting children and small onions is dug. In the event that signs of damage to corms by brown or black spotting were found, then they will need to be dug out earlier, thanks to this it will be possible to avoid damage to them by other diseases. To make it easier to dig gladioli, they can be mowed beforehand, however, if desired, the stems with foliage can be cut with secateurs already at the dug out bulbs.
Also cut off the roots. After that, the remains of the soil are carefully shaken off the corms, and then the children are separated. After that, they are put into special boxes with a mesh or finely meshed bottom, each variety separately, then they are thoroughly washed under running water. Next, they must be disinfected by immersing them for 20-30 minutes. in a solution of Fundazol (1%), then they are taken out and washed again in clean running water. Then they are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (3%) and laid out to dry for two or three days. Dried onions are put in boxes, the bottom of which is lined with paper sheets, and stored in a warm place (from 25 to 30 degrees), while not forgetting to turn them over systematically. After 1.5–2 weeks, they are removed to a cooler place (from 18 to 22 degrees). And after another 1–1.5 months, the corms can be cleaned and sorted. The dirty uppermost scales are removed from them, and the children are also separated. nine0007
How to properly prepare a baby for storage? To begin with, they should be sorted by size and grade.
Large children in diameter reach 8 mm or more, and medium ones - from 6 mm. After that, they are folded into paper bags and stored at a temperature of no more than 5-6 degrees. If they are stored in a warmer place, then it is likely that they will not sprout in the spring. If there is no other place, then you can store them on the shelf of the refrigerator.
GLADIOLI. Autumn digging and storage of corms // How To Store Gladiolus For The Winter
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Basic rules for storing bulbs
The duration of the natural dormancy period for gladioli is about 35–40 days, during which time no sprouts will appear on the bulbs, no matter what conditions they are in. However, when this period ends, the probability of the appearance of sprouts increases, but this should not be allowed, since it is still very far from planting in the ground. In order to preserve gladioli until the onset of the warm season, they are stored in a cool room (no more than 5-10 degrees), while the humidity level there should be from 60 to 70 percent.
In order for the onions to be better preserved, several peeled garlic cloves should be placed in the box where they are located, while at least once every 4 weeks the planting material is inspected, removing spoiled onions, and at the same time replacing the garlic. The best room for storing such flowers is a ventilated cellar or a cold basement, while it is recommended to put them in boxes with a mesh bottom, since the bulbs can breathe normally in them. You can put the boxes on the rack, it is not only convenient, but also saves usable space. Also, to store planting material, you can use bags, for the manufacture of which you can take dimensionless tights. nine0007
If you have to store your gladiolus in the refrigerator, choose the bottom shelf for vegetables, and put them in hermetically sealed containers to prevent them from dehydrating during storage. However, each of the onions is pre-wrapped in a paper sheet. At the end of winter, the corms begin to "breathe", while moisture is released, so at this time they are pulled out and unfolded, and when they are completely dry, they are again wrapped in fresh paper sheets and put in the refrigerator, but in a colder place.
