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Diy insect repellent for plants


6 bug sprays for plants |

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While insects are a valuable part of our gardens' ecosystems, sometimes they end up tucking into our vegetable harvests or eating their way through our flower buds before they bloom. 

These moments can have us reaching for the insecticides. However, filled with toxic chemicals, commercial insecticides often stand at odds with the sustainable garden ideas that we want our plots to embody.

This is where homemade insect sprays and deterrents come into their own. Created from items you would find in your store cupboard, they are quick and effective ways to ward bugs off your prized plants. 

‘Homemade garlic, nettle, soap, tomato and basil sprays are effective against aphids, mites and thrips. The aim is not to kill off all the insects in your garden, but rather aim for a healthy ecosystem,’ says garden expert Leigh Clapp.

Bug sprays – 6 homemade recipes for plants

Homemade bug sprays should only be used as a short term solution – at the same time as treating pests, think of adding other plants to your garden that will encourage insects and animals that prey on the problem bug.  

‘Disaster-proof your garden through plant diversity. The wider the range of plants, the less they are plagued by pests, so that if a disease or pest occurs only a limited number of susceptible plants will be affected,’ continues Leigh. 

For example, if you want to get rid of slugs, can you attract more birds? If you need to get rid of aphids, could you plant angelica, fennel and dill nearby to attract ladybirds? There are lots of different companion planting ideas that will help you to reduce pests in your plot. By creating a balanced garden, you will find that you have less and less need for bug sprays. 

Before using any of these bug sprays on your plants, always do a patch-test. Spray a small amount onto a few leaves of the plant and wait 24 hours to see if there is any damage. Avoid using any foliar sprays during the heat of the day as the exposure to the sun can cause leaf burn. 

1. Insecticidal soap

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A popular bug spray for treating a wide range of pests, homemade insecticidal soap, consists of soap, oil and water. Homemade insecticidal soap is often the first port of call for many gardeners as the ingredients are all store cupboard essentials. 

To create insecticidal soap combine one cup of vegetable oil with one tablespoon of dishwashing soap or pure Castile liquid soap. For this method, as well as any others that call for dishwashing soap, avoid those that contain a degreaser or bleach as these can cause more harm than good. Use this oil and soap mixture as a concentrate and dilute one teaspoon with two cups of warm water into a spray bottle. Once mixed with water, the solution’s efficacy will only last for a day. 

Insecticidal soap is one of the best ways of getting rid of aphids, as well as lacebugs, leafhoppers, mealybugs and thrips.

2. Neem oil bug spray

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An organic insecticide, neem oil has seen a rise in popularity as a method to treat everything from insects through to fungi. 

‘Neem oil has been used in India for thousands of years and is a trusted method to keep on top of pests, without any of the nasties,’ explains John Maree, co-owner of OxyPlants . ‘A spray of Neem oil on the tops and undersides of your plant’s leaves will help remove several pests, including mites, whitefly, aphids, thrip, and mealybugs, at every stage in their life cycle. Using neem oil also helps to get rid of powdery mildew, too.’

To use neem oil as a homemade bug spray mix one to two tablespoons of pure, cold-pressed neem oil with a gallon of water. You can also add one to two teaspoons of dish soap to the mix to help the neem oil adhere to the plants. 

Alternatively, you can use neem oil as a root soak to treat root rot. Mix one gallon of water with two tablespoons of neem oil and one teaspoons of pure Castile liquid soap (to help the neem oil adhere). Apply a small amount as a test and wait 24 hours. If all is well, then apply two or three cups to the soil around the plant, then continue the treatment as a replacement to the watering cycle. 

A benefit of using neem oil over other pesticides is that it doesn't harm birds, pets or beneficial insects. This is because neem oil gets absorbed into the plant’s tissue rather than just sitting on the surface and so only affects any insects that ingest the plant. 

3. Vinegar spray

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It seems that there is no end to the abilities of vinegar, especially when you take into account the numerous ways of cleaning with vinegar, but did you know that it can also be used as a bug spray?

One of the easiest homemade bug sprays, simply mix one cup of white vinegar with three cups of water. You can also add half a teaspoon of dishwashing soap to help the solution adhere. Shake thoroughly and apply to the affected areas.

The acetic acid in the vinegar will treat a wide range of garden pests but it requires contact. If you have whitefly eggs be sure to spray under the leaves. Furthermore, white vinegar has a strong odor which has been reported to repel ants and other scent driven pests.

'If you are wanting to treat houseplants with a vinegar spray, try adding a few drops of essential oil or some slices of lemon peel or rosemary sprigs to help temper the vinegar smell,' advises Period Living editor Melanie Griffiths.

4. Garlic spray

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You may have heard that onions and garlic make good companion plants as the scent of their foliage helps to repel aphids, slugs and carrot fly. This spray takes it to the next level. 

‘Puree two garlic bulbs with one tablespoon of vegetable oil, let it sit overnight, strain, add one teaspoon of mild liquid soap and four cups of water to fill the spray container,’ recommends Leigh Clapp. 

Store this mixture in the fridge until needed. In the evening, spray both sides of the leaves with the spray and then reapply every few days when your plants are suffering with infestation. Alternatively, use every one to two weeks as a deterrent. 

If you want to be even more sustainable, why not learn how to grow garlic so that you can have an endless supply of garlic spray – plus extra cloves that you can add to your favorite meals?

5. Tomato leaf spray

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If you’ve ever tried growing tomatoes, you will be familiar with the characteristic scent of their leaves, but did you know that these leaves contain a compound called alkaloid which can be used to create a spray that is toxic to aphids and mites? To make a tomato leaf spray, mix equal quantities of chopped up tomato leaf with water and leave to steep overnight. Let this steep overnight, before straining into a spray bottle and applying to the plant’s leaves.

This is a great way to recycle tomato leaves once you've pruned them – you can learn how to prune tomato plants for a maximum yield.

6. Cinnamon spray

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If you’ve ever grown plants in pots, you’ll be familiar with the problem of stray mushrooms. However, this can be easily resolve with a simple cinnamon spray. Mix two teaspoons cinnamon powder into four cups of warm water. Allow this to steep overnight and then strain through a coffee filter and then pour into a spray bottle. Mist the potting soil and plants. 

Cinnamon spray is also reported to be an effective treatment to get rid of ants. If you have an ant problem in your pots or want to keep ants away from dining or patio areas, try applying cinnamon oil or powdered cinnamon to create an effective barrier.

What is a natural bug killer for plants?

Vinegar is a really effective natural bug killer for plants. Dilute it 1:1 with water in a spray bottle and spray it over and under the leaves of affected plants. You can also use it around the house to deter bugs inside; the vinegary smell will quickly dissipate.

You can also use a hydrogen peroxide and water solution, which is great when trying to get rid of bugs from houseplant soil. 

Which homemade bug spray is best for repelling mosquitoes?

The best homemade bug sprays for repelling mosquitoes are those with a strong smell that mosquitoes hate. Other than citronella, which you are probably already familiar with as a mosquito repellent, they include the following essential oils: 

Having graduated with a first class degree in English Literature four years ago, Holly started her career as a features writer and sub-editor at Period Living magazine, Homes & Gardens' sister title. Working on Period Living brought with it insight into the complexities of owning and caring for period homes, from interior decorating through to choosing the right windows and the challenges of extending. This has led to a passion for traditional interiors, particularly the country-look. Writing for the Homes & Gardens website as a content editor, alongside regular features for Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors magazines, has enabled her to broaden her writing to incorporate her interests in gardening, wildlife and nature. 

5 Homemade Pesticides: Soap Sprays for Plants

There is no magic bullet for keeping your garden and indoor plants free from insect pests. Some tricks I have learned over the years are ways to cope with bugs without resorting to nasty chemicals. Here are my tips, including homemade insecticidal sprays (soap sprays).

Pay Attention to Your Plants

Before resorting to using pesticides (even organic ones), consider the following techniques to discourage insect pests from attacking your plants:


These aphids have done some damage, but don't spray if you see the black and orange alligator-like ladybug larvae attacking them. He will do the dirty work for you by eating up to 50 aphids a day!

5 Organic Pesticide Sprays for Insects

If you have exhausted all these methods and feel you must resort to using a spray, don't reach for harsh chemicals. They will do more harm than good by polluting the watershed, killing good and bad bugs alike, and eventually the insects you are trying to kill may grow resistant to those chemicals requiring you to use even stronger ones! They can also harm birds, animals, you, and your children!

Try a more natural approach by making one of these homemade insecticidal sprays. Bear in mind that although they are less toxic they are not totally harmless. Keep them away from kids and pets. Test them on a few leaves before you go all in to make sure they won't injure your plants. Be sure never to spray them on your plants during the sunny, hot part of the day or they will definitely cause foliar damage. Spray in the evening, when bees and other pollinators are not active.

  1. Dish Soap Spray: Dissolve 1 tablespoon of a mild liquid soap such as a pure dish soap (no bleach, degreaser, or detergents added) or castile soap in 1 quart of water. Dr. Bronner's soap may be expensive, but it uses no animal fats, which makes it a good choice for vegans. Insecticidal soaps are good for killing soft-bodied insects. Be sure to cover the whole plant—both sides of the leaves and on the stems. Soap sprays only work when wet, so they will need to be reapplied every 4-7 days or until you notice that populations have decreased. After a few applications, if rain hasn't done this for you, spray the plants with plain water to rinse off any soapy residue.
     
  2. Oil Spray: Mix 1 cup of vegetable oil with 1 tablespoon of mild liquid soap. Add 2-8 teaspoons of this mixture to 1 quart of water and spray your plants as above. The oil in this spray smothers the insects so it is effective on aphids, thrips, mites, and scale. 
     
  3. Tomato Leaves Insecticide: The leaves of tomatoes contain solanine and tomatine and can be used as an insecticide. Soak 2 cups of fresh leaves in 1 quart of water overnight. Strain and spray. It kills aphids and many types of chewing insects, but also attracts beneficials. Don't use it on other nightshades like eggplants, peppers, or potatoes because it could spread disease from plant to plant.
     
  4. Garlic Repellent Spray: Despite all you've read, garlic acts as more of a repellent than a killer. Puree 2 bulbs of garlic with 1 cup of water and let sit overnight. Strain the liquid into a quart jar, add 1/2 cup vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon liquid soap, and fill the jar the rest of the way with water. Put one cup in a 1 quart sprayer, fill with water and apply to your affected plants. It is good for repelling aphids, cabbage worms, leaf hoppers, squash bugs, and whiteflies.
     
  5. Hot Pepper Repellent Spray: Hot pepper is also a good repellent and works on rabbits and deer as well as many insects. Mix 1 tablespoon dried chile powder, 1 quart of water, and 1 teaspoon of mild soap. Spray full strength on the plants under attack.
    If you have lots of hot peppers growing in your garden, you can make a fresh concoction from 1/2 cup chopped peppers pureed in 1 cup of water. Add the puree to 1 quart of water and bring to a boil. Let sit until cool and then strain. Add 1 teaspoon mild soap and spray full strength on plants. You might want to wear gloves when working with this spray and be sure not to get it into your eyes!

Many other plants have been reported to have insecticidal qualities, including hyssop, lettuce leaves, onions, pennyroyal, peppermint, and radish leaves. 

There is no one-size fits all when it comes to pest management. At best we can try to maintain a healthy balance of good guys and bad guys and still get some decent produce for us!

Now that we've learned how to minimize insect pests, let's tackle weeds. Here are tips on coping with weeds, including 5 Homemade Herbicides.

How to protect flowers from diseases and pests

Gardeners with great love grow a variety of flower crops. But even in the most experienced of them, plants sometimes get sick, they are inhabited by numerous pests that worsen the appearance of flowers. They damage leaves, buds, stems and roots. If no action is taken, the affected flower may die. But timely and competent actions taken to combat ailments and harmful insects will help plants recover and maintain their decorative properties. An important task of gardeners is preventive measures, which consist in strictly following the agricultural technology developed for each crop. Strong and powerful plants are much less affected by diseases.

Preventive measures include:

In addition, timely disposal of weeds helps to maintain the ideal condition of the flower garden.

The most common flower diseases

There are many diseases that affect flowers. Some of them are rare, others can be found in almost every garden. The most common "ailments" of flowers include:

Powdery mildew

It is manifested by the appearance on the leaves of a white, ashy or grayish coating, which can subsequently turn into a brown color. First, mild whitish spots appear, then the affected area increases and gradually covers the entire diseased plant. In leaves, the upper side is more affected. It causes a similar disease a number of varieties of the fungus. It develops more actively during periods of inclement wet weather, but can appear on flowers and at air humidity of 70% or less. From flower crops, phloxes and chrysanthemums, lupins and levkoy, as well as geraniums, delphinium, calendula and many other species often suffer from powdery mildew.

Ways to deal with powdery mildew of flowers:

Rust

This disease can spread in some types of flowers exclusively on leaves, while in others it affects both shoots and buds. Small pads are formed on them, the color of which varies. This is what pustules look like containing spores of the fungus, provoking the appearance of rust on plants. If no action is taken, the pustules will spread over most of the leaves and stems of the plant, the color around the pustules will turn pale green, yellow or brown. The leaves will eventually fall off, the stems are deformed, the plant will die. Mallow and carnation are most susceptible to rust, white phloxes are resistant flower varieties.

You need to fight this disease in the following way:

Gray mold

The disease is caused by fungi that colonize all parts of many flower crops, including their roots, and begin to parasitize them, causing a change in color to brown, softening and decay. Plants are covered with a characteristic thick coating of gray color, consisting of colonies of the fungus. Because of this plaque, the disease got its name. It occurs at different stages of the growing season, but in the second half of summer it is found more often.

First of all, gray rot appears on weak shoots, but if you do not fight it, it quickly covers the entire area.

Almost all types of flower crops are susceptible to this disease. The pathogen successfully overwinters on the remains of affected flowers. It develops at almost any positive temperature. Dry weather slows its spread. Increased air humidity, excessive density of flower beds contribute to the intensification of the spread of the disease.

Flower crops such as tulips and lilies, dahlias and gladioli, lupins, peonies, geraniums, roses, chrysanthemums, etc. are especially susceptible to the causative agent of gray rot. These types of flowers do not have varieties with increased resistance to gray rot.

In the fight against this disease, the emphasis is on creating unfavorable conditions for the life of the pathogen fungus. Measures taken include:

Planting material must be treated with a growth stimulator, this will increase resistance to disease.

Spotting

It begins with the appearance of mild spots on the leaves, gradually they increase, the disease covers all parts of the plants. The form of the formed spots can be any, the color is predominantly brown or brown, often with a bright border. Often the leaves look perforated. With the further development of the disease, the flowers dry and fall off. Individual fungi and a number of bacteria cause spotting. Unfavorable conditions in which flowers are grown contribute to its development. The disease spreads with water, air currents moved by the wind, and is carried by insects. Most often, spots of fungal and bacterial origin affect irises and chrysanthemums, peonies and lupins, delphiniums and primroses.

How to deal with flower spotting:

Garden pest control

In addition to diseases, flowers in our garden are threatened by various insect pests. The most frequent uninvited guests are:

Aphids and how to deal with them

This small insect pest infects almost all flower plants, settling in colonies on young tender leaves and shoots, and sucks the juice. As a result, the leaves curl, and pathological growth of shoots and flowers is observed. There is no longer any talk of decorativeness, you need to save the plant.

How to destroy these small oval insects 0.1-0.7 in size, which secrete honeydew, attracting ants to flowers, which carry viral plant diseases? When the first signs of aphids appear, you need to spray the flowers with such effective insecticides as Zubr and Tanrek, Alatpar and Biotplin, Fufanon and Aktpellik, as well as Inta-Vir and various types of Iskra acting in accordance with the instructions. If all insects cannot be destroyed, a second spraying should be carried out after two weeks, using a different preparation.

Insecticide against aphids and whiteflies Tanrek 12ml

Spider mite

Small, almost invisible to the naked eye, the tick especially loves the combination of heat and low humidity. It settles on the underside of the leaves, damaging them, entangling them with cobwebs, changing color to marble, then yellow. Then the leaves dry up and fall off prematurely. The tick - its adult females - winters well in the bark, in fallen leaves. In the spring, it begins to multiply first on weeds, then goes on to flowers.

It is possible to protect flower beds from spider mites only with an integrated approach. It is necessary to constantly remove weeds from flower plantings, destroy the remains of plants from the diseased area. Spraying flowers from a tick can be especially effective for combating these pests with Fufanon and Iskra-M. In extreme heat, use "Thiovit Jet" or colloidal sulfur, diluting the working solution at the rate of 40 g per half a bucket of water. Processing is carried out every ten days.


Broad-spectrum insecticide Fufanon-Nova 2ml

Wire rope

This is the name of the larvae of the click beetle, which develop in the ground and damage the roots, flower bulbs, and gnaw through the stems. Distributed in all regions. The larvae look like long and hard to the touch yellow worms. The wireworm lives in the ground, some even hibernate in the larval phase. Flowers affected by it either die or lag far behind in development from healthy plants. If 10-12 individuals live on each square meter, this poses a real threat to the flower garden.

It is necessary to fight the wireworm by destroying weeds, especially the wheatgrass he loves, and treating the flower garden with effective preparations - Provotox, Bazudin, Initiation or Zemlin (consumption of only 10 g per 30 m2). If a perennial flower garden is being laid, one of these preparations is mixed with sand and added to the grooves or pits for planting.


Insecticide against wireworm, cabbage fly, soil pests Zemlin 100g

Thrips

Another species of insect pests, numerous, very small (from 0.5 to 3.0 mm), with an elongated body, most often choosing flowers for life. They suck the juices from plants, damage the stamens and pistils, preventing the pollination process. Flowers lose their decorative qualities and do not produce viable seeds, their leaves become ugly and colorless. Adult thrips are able to fly to neighboring plants. They lay their eggs here, the generation of insects develops in two weeks, they overwinter in plant debris or in the upper soil layer. Some of these insect species carry viral and bacterial diseases of cultivated plants grown in our gardens.

How to deal with thrips, protecting your flower beds from them? First of all, be careful and start taking action when you find the first foci where pests have appeared. You can destroy insects by spraying the affected plants with effective insecticides, the list of which is similar to those used in the fight against aphids. Processing of the flower garden is carried out every 8-10 days, it is recommended to alternate the preparations.

Plant protection products - Fertilizers, fungicides, herbicides, insecticides, plant care products.

Destroying annual, perennial grass and dicotyledonous weeds, including cow parsnip, trees and shrubs

Destruction of a wide range of annual and perennial dicotyledonous weeds, including wild thistle, sow thistle

To combat any weeds, including the most difficult to eradicate ( wheatgrass, sow thistle, plantain, dandelion, hogweed, nettle, etc. )

To combat all types of weeds, including the most malicious (wheatgrass, thistle, bindweed and others), more than 155 species of weeds

Against spider mites

Has a lightning-fast effect on insects (flies, midges, fruit flies, mosquitoes, moths)

leaf beetles, false scale insects, mining flies, centipedes, moths, flies, spider mites, sawflies, scoops, aphids, thrips, tubeworms, earwigs, color

For the destruction of flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, moths, as well as cockroaches, bedbugs, fleas, ants ,os

For the extermination of flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, moths, as well as cockroaches, bugs, fleas, ants

Crawling and flying insects (flies, cockroaches, ants, bugs, fleas, etc.)

fleas, ants, skin beetles)

For the extermination of flying (flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, moths) and non-flying (cockroaches, ants, bugs, fleas) and treatment of landing sites of flies

, ants, bugs, fleas)

For the destruction of larvae of the May and other types of cockchafers, wireworms and false wireworms

For the destruction of all types of ants

From the Colorado potato beetle, aphids, whiteflies, thrips and scale insects

From bugs, ants, ants slugs, snails, Colorado potato beetle, bears

Against mosquitoes, midges, mosquitoes, midges, horseflies, fleas

To protect people from ticks and fleas, flying blood-sucking insects

soil, as well as the suitability of potting soil for certain indoor plants

For vegetable and fruit crops

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Means for rooting seedlings of fruit, berry, ornamental and flower crops, improving the survival of seedlings

Kit for preparing a tank mix. Three active components enhance the effect and ensure the destruction of persistent weeds: hogweed, goutweed, nettle, couch grass, sow thistle

More than 100 species of weeds - clover, dandelion, thistle, bindweed, plantain, quinoa

Biological snake repeller based on special blends of essential oils

For the extermination of wasps and wasp nests, as well as for the extermination of flying (flies, mosquitoes, mosquitoes, moths) and non-flying (cockroaches, bugs, fleas, ants, skin beetles) indoor insects

Universal remedy against all types of rodents and insects on any territory

Bait for the fight against mole cricket. Effective against garden ants, wireworms and other soil pests

Bait from mole crickets and wireworms

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From moths and skin beetles. Destroys not only adults, but also their larvae

For the destruction of ants indoors and in their immediate vicinity (on terraces, in gazebos, patios, under awnings adjacent to buildings, etc. )

Against house and garden ants

For the extermination of all types of cockroaches, ants, bugs, fleas, flies (in places of breeding)

For the control of garden and house ants, as well as cockroaches

For the extermination of cockroaches and ants inside residential premises , private house areas, at objects of various categories, as well as in the garden and vegetable garden

Against all types of garden and house red ants

For the extermination of cockroaches

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Means for the destruction of caterpillars on vegetables, fruit crops and grapes

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Pests: spider mites, fruit and other mites, moths, leafworms, whiteflies, scoops, moths, thrips

To combat a complex of pests: mites, aphids, thrips, spider mites, Colorado potato beetle, leaf-eating caterpillars

To destroy a wide range of pests pests, including mites, aphids, thrips, weevils, codling moths, leafworms, suckers, sawflies, scale insects, false scale insects, flies, whiteflies, raspberry beetles, whiteflies, scoops, moths, gall midges, moths, scale insects, moths on

Fights insect pests (aphid, sucker, codling moth, weevil, flea beetle, caterpillars, etc. ) sawflies, caterpillars, scale insects, spider mites, aphids and other sucking pests)

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Natural growth and development stimulator of various crops based on succinic acid

Means for changing the color of hydrangea inflorescences with pink petals to light blue

For all types of crops

Used for soaking and germinating seeds, root feeding of seedlings during their development, for healthy plant nutrition throughout their life

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For pre-sowing treatment and feeding vegetables, berries, flowers and houseplants, for soaking seeds, tillage and plants

Food bait to control moles, shrews, mice and rats

Control rats and house mice

Control rats, house mice, field mice

gerbils, bank voles and ground squirrels (small mountain, long-tailed)

For the control of house mice

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Against moles

For killing mice

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Biological preparation for toilets and latrines of fast action

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preparation of compost

Preparation for combating fungal diseases: root and fruit rot, blackleg, macrosporiosis, fusarium, late blight, anthracnose, wilt, etc.

Against powdery mildew, gray mold, anthracnose, goblet rust, columnar rust, leaf septoria, purple spot, leaf rust

For treatment and healing of wounds of ornamental and fruit trees after pruning, grafting, wind damage, as well as wounds caused by sunburn

For healing wounds of fruit and ornamental trees caused by grafting, budding or pruning, sunburn

To prevent infection of seedlings with soil infections (rot, scab, fusarium, mold)

From late blight, macrosporiosis, peronosporosis, septoria, black bacterial spot, mildia.

To combat pathogens of late blight and peronosporosis resistant to other drugs, as well as mildew

Used to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases

From various diseases - moniliosis, various rot, penicillosis

Against gray and white rot, downy mildew, early blight, late blight, peronosporosis, black spot

Against diseases (scab, powdery mildew, phytophthora, rust, etc.) thrips, sawflies, suckers and other suckers)

To protect trees from insects, from fungal and bacterial infections, from lichens, from frost and temperature extremes,

shrub vegetation. hogweed, dandelion, sow thistle, couch grass, goutweed, nettle, ragweed

Designed for the destruction of annual and perennial grasses and dicotyledonous weeds, herbaceous and tree-shrub vegetation

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Universal agent for the destruction of any flying and crawling insects

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Means for fighting flying insects: flies, midges, wasps, etc. in the form of a trap on sticky tape

Activates growth processes, accelerates flowering and ripening, increases yield, normalizes soil microflora, and also helps plants to endure stress more easily, as well as recover after transplantation or adverse conditions

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Bait for rats, mice, voles and other mouse-like

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It is used to control pests: thrips, aphids, caterpillars, leafworms, cabbage, apple and fruit moths, onion flies, spider mites, whiteflies, slugs, suckers, etc. e

Designed to improve the appearance of ornamental and flowering indoor plants, enhance their growth, increase resistance to diseases and pests

Designed to increase the yield of vegetable, fruit, berry and flower crops, stimulate the growth and development of plants, increase germination and seed germination

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Used to combat powdery mildew, scab, late blight and other fungal diseases of plants burns

It is used to combat scab, powdery mildew, leaf curl, white, perforated and brown spotting, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis, moniliosis, late blight, cercosporosis

Plant protection against aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, wireworms, mites, whiteflies, midges, moths, flies, leaf beetles, cutworms, cockroaches, fleas, wasps, mosquitoes, Maybugs), as well as an auxiliary agent that increases the effectiveness of chemical protection products

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Preparation for complex protection of potatoes against diseases, Colorado potato beetle, wireworm and weather stresses

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Suitable for both treatment and prevention of late blight, alternariosis, peronosporosis and other diseases, on potatoes and tomatoes in open ground, on onions (on turnips) and cucumbers in open ground

From diseases (rhizoctoniosis, common scab) and pests (Colorado potato beetle, aphids), including those living in the soil (wireworm) etc. , and as a fertilizer, pouring into the soil before digging in spring or autumn

To protect people from the attack of blood-sucking insects (midges, mosquitoes, midges, mosquitoes, horseflies, fleas), forest and taiga ticks

Against the Colorado potato beetle and leaf-eating caterpillars for use in agriculture and in personal subsidiary plots

Destroy most common pests: apple flower beetle, various types of scale insects, aphids, thrips, leafworms, scoops, whites, moths, cruciferous fleas, weevils, etc.

Effectively fights against a complex of pests: whitefly, aphid, thrips, codling moth, leafworm, apple flower beetle, mites, sprout fly, Colorado potato beetle, raspberry-strawberry weevil, etc.

For the destruction of nests of garden and house ants, cockroaches, fleas, flies, wood lice, earwigs, crickets and other insects , bugs, sawflies, caterpillars, aphids and other sucking pests

Intended for the destruction of cockroaches, bugs, fleas, flies, ants (red house and various garden species) and rat mites

For treatment of cesspools, septic tanks, sewer systems

For protection against pests of most horticultural and horticultural crops - cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, apple trees, currants, raspberries, flowers, etc.

mealybug, spider mite, whitefly, Colorado potato beetle, tortoise bug, wireworm, thrips, cabbage butterfly

Restores soil balance in microelement composition, prevents a number of fungal and viral diseases. Designed for pre-sowing (pre-planting) treatment of seeds and planting material, fertilizing vegetables, fruits, berries, flowers cult

For indoor and garden plants

For country toilets, septic tanks, bio-toilets, latrines

Means for fighting slugs, snails on flowers, fruit and berry crops food, in the practice of medical disinfestation by specialists of organizations that have the right to engage in disinfection activities, and the population in everyday life

Means for combating flying insects: flies, midges, wasps, etc.

For quick and effective extermination of cockroaches

Against all types of rodents - gray and black rats, mice, voles, moles and ground squirrels for the destruction of synanthropic insects (cockroaches, ants and winged flies)

For the prevention of plant diseases. Warns, destroys and repels pests: aphids, mites, butterflies, beetles and even rodents

For home ornamental flowers and plants in the garden

Natural, environmentally friendly product with a specific smell for protecting garden plants from pests and rodents

Stimulates the growth and development of plants, maintains leaf elasticity (turgor), reduces dust settling, strengthens plant immunity

For the prevention of infection by insect pests and for giving shine to leaves

Designed to protect vegetable, berry, ornamental, fruit crops from a wide range of soil pests (bearworm, beetle, wireworm, weevil, onion fly, etc. .)

Mineral-oil emulsion of vaseline oil to control wintering stages of insect pests: Scale insects, false scale insects, mites, aphids, mealybugs, as well as eggs of insect pests

Used to change and maintain the blue color of large-leaved hydrangeas

Highly effective preparation with a triple combination active substances for the destruction of the Colorado potato beetle and its larvae on potatoes during the growing season.

To protect wool, fur, felt and felt products from moths

The drug has an intestinal mechanism of action and is effective against insects of any age. For the fight against insect caterpillars moths, silkworms, scoops, nuns, meadow moths, leafworms, hawthorn, butterflies, moths, etc. for the protection of coniferous crops from a wide range of pests: hermes, aphids, sawflies, scale insects, etc.

For prolonged protection of coniferous and deciduous trees, as well as perennial flowers from diseases: snow, brown, gray, ordinary shute (shedding needles), rust on conifers

Used on garden paths and paths, along fences and hedges, on the blind areas of houses, foundation cracks, near greenhouses and between ridges

To control snails and slugs on plants

To kill wasps and various types of flies

To kill ants (domestic and garden), as well as flies, wood lice, fleas, cockroaches, crickets

flies, centipedes, moths, flies, spider mites, sawflies, cutworms, aphids, thrips, tubeworm, earwigs,

Ready-to-use grain bait with a mummifying effect for the destruction of house mice, voles and other mouse-like rodents, as well as gray and black rats

Used to combat various crop diseases: late blight, coccomycosis, scab, rust, leaf curl, black rot , mildew, anthracnose, various types of leaf spot and needles

Designed for the treatment of agricultural products from fungal infections (fusarium, phomosis, or gangrene, oosporosis, dry rot, all types of clamp rot, gray rot, etc.

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