Types of paths for garden

Affordable Walkway and Garden Path Ideas

Our favorite walkway ideas for your landscape: Paths you can build in a weekend without breaking the bank or your back.

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Affordable Garden Path Ideas

Instead of an expensive, labor-intensive formal path, save money and time with one of these casual garden paths. These walkway ideas will blend in better and will look like they’ve been in your garden forever.

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Required Tools for these Walkway Ideas

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

Bucket
Drywall saw
Garden rake
Spade
Wheelbarrow/Dolly
Tamper
Garden trowel

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Informal Garden Paths and Rock Walkways

This winding gravel path reflects the informality and ease of maintenance of the garden. Mulch and gravel are the cheapest pathway materials you can buy for rock walkways, and they make construction simple, too, making them two of our favorite walkway ideas. All you have to do is remove the sod, roll out landscape fabric and spread the mulch or gravel.

Mulch and gravel paths can be meandering, wood chip–covered trails or carefully planned designs, and they range from casual to formal depending on the design and edging material. You can choose from a wide variety of loose materials including coarse bark, decorative mulch, washed stones and crushed gravel or shells.

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Mulch Walkways

As stated above, the three common types of mulch suitable for garden paths are wood chips, cocoa bean and cypress bark. Since these path materials are lighter than stone, they’re easier to haul and spread. Mulch is also a bit cheaper than gravel or stone pebbles. Remember, though, that organic paths decompose over time, so you’ll have to rejuvenate them every two to five years with new material. Also, don’t use bark, wood chips or mulch for paths that run through areas with poor drainage or that are wet. It’ll lead to a soggy path.

You’ll find bags of mulch at home centers, but for the best selection of organic materials for a path, check your local nursery or landscape supplier. Depending on how big your path is, it may be cheaper to have bulk material delivered than to buy bags. Plan on a 3-in.-deep layer of mulch about 3 ft. wide as an alternative to grass. Call the public works department at your city hall or check with local tree trimming services. They often have piles of wood chips or mulch that are free for the hauling.

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Gravel Walkways

Several types of inexpensive gravel are available for paths. Common types are: crushed gravel, crushed limestone and pea rock. For a path that’s more formal or longer lasting than a mulch path, consider washed gravel, crushed stone or crushed shells. These materials last indefinitely and only need occasional weeding to look their best. If you want to run a wheelbarrow or lawn mower along the path, choose crushed stone rather than smooth pebbles. The jagged edges of crushed stone lock together to form a firm surface. Crushed stone is also less likely to get kicked out into the yard.

Gravel for paths is sold by type and size. Smaller stones, averaging under 1/2 in., are best for paths because they offer more comfort underfoot and pack together better. Visit your local nursery or landscape supply specialist to see what’s available in your area. Gravel is usually sold by the ton. Measure the length and width of the path. Take these measurements to the supplier and ask for help to figure out the quantity of gravel you need. Unless your path is very short, it usually makes sense to have the material delivered. Gravel for a path 3 in. deep and 3 ft. wide will cost about the same as mulch.

Gravel paths do have a few limitations, though. The stones can get tracked into the house, so don’t use them near entries. And gravel paths are a bad choice in areas where you have to shovel snow off them. The gravel can end up in your lawn or flower beds.

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Walkway Ideas: Tips for Building Mulch and Gravel Paths

Rent a gas-powered sod cutter to remove grass if the path is long. For short paths, use a garden spade to slice off the sod.
Set edging so it ends up about an inch above the fill material.
Use a spacer stick cut to the width of the garden path as a guide when you set the edging or border. You won’t have to keep pulling out the tape measure to make sure the edges run parallel.
Cover the soil with landscape fabric to deter weeds and prevent the fill material from mixing with the soil. Don’t use plastic. It’ll catch water and create a soggy path.
Have gravel delivered, especially if you need more than a half ton.
If you want a path that’s firm enough to roll a wheelbarrow on, use crushed stone and tamp it after leveling it. (Pea rock or other rounded stone won’t compact.) Use a hand tamper for short paths. Rent a vibrating-plate tamper for long paths.

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Borders and Edging for Walkway Landscaping

Gravel or mulch paths require edging to keep the material from spreading out onto your lawn or flower bed. You can also add a border or an edge as a design element. Here are some common types of edging you can use for walkway landscaping:

Plastic landscape edging is cheap. And it’s fast and easy to install. If you object to the look of the rounded top edge, hide it with a border of plants.
Steel or aluminum edging forms a crisp edge that gives the path a neat appearance. It costs more than plastic, though, and is less forgiving on sloped terrain.
Brick and stone borders are attractive and versatile, but they’re more expensive and a lot more work to install.
Concrete edging is less expensive than brick or stone but has the same advantages. Newer types that look like random pieces of tumbled stone are a great lower-cost alternative to a real stone border.
Landscape timbers are an economical alternative to stone or brick borders. They’re especially useful for building shallow steps on gradually sloping terrain.

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Metal Edging

Metal edging is a must for mulch or gravel walkway ideas because it keeps gravel or mulch from overflowing into the yard or garden.

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Brick Edging

Brick or pavers create an attractive edge treatment, though they’re more expensive and labor intensive to install.

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Stepping-Stone Paths with Yard Stones

Stepping-stones are the fastest, easiest way to build a path, and another one of our favorite walkway ideas. There’s very little digging involved. And although the stone is heavy, a little goes a long way. Since there’s distance between the stones, you don’t have to worry about leveling them with one another. Stepping-stone paths also cost less because you’ll cover more distance with less stone. Stones that are flat and about 18 in. across and 2 in. thick are ideal. Check your local landscape supplier or quarry to see what’s available. If you’re building a short stepping-stone path, you can usually pick the stones you want from the pallet or pile of stones on hand at the supplier. For longer paths, ask for help to figure out the quantity and have the stone delivered. If you’re lucky enough to live in an area with naturally occurring outcroppings of stone, you may find stepping-stones free for the hauling.

You can also make attractive stepping-stone paths using 12-in. square or round concrete patio blocks. These are available in a wide selection of colors and textures from home centers, landscape suppliers and masonry dealers. Search online for “patio blocks” to see the variety.

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Trace the Stone

Place the flagstone where you want it, then cut the outline in the grass.

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Remove the Sod

Pry up the sod, then set the yard stone. Use sand to level it, if necessary.

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Tips for Building a Stepping-Stone Path

Arrange stones so the distance from the center of one to the center of the next one is 20 to 24 in.
Set the stones in place and cut around them with a spade or rock saw. Then lift the stone and dig out the grass and a little soil.
Spread a 1/2- to 1-in.-thick layer of sand under the stone if you want to make leveling the stones easier. Sand is easier to work with than soil. A 60-lb. bag of sand is enough for about four to six stones.
Set the top of the stepping-stones about 1 in. above the soil level. This will give you a dry place to step while still allowing you to run a lawn mower over the path.

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Planted Paths with Yard Stones

Ground cover attractively fills the space around and between pieces of yard stones such as flagstone. Including ground cover plants in your garden path makes a stone walkway easier in two ways: First, you can skip the thick, compacted gravel base underneath. That eliminates the backbreaking digging, plus the hauling and compacting of gravel. Without the solid base, the stones will shift and become uneven, but the plants will hide that. The second advantage is that you don’t have to spend extra time laying the stones perfectly. The plants will hide wide gaps.

There are quite a few perennial plants that can withstand foot traffic and will grow between stones. Check with your local nursery to see what’s available that will grow in your area. Here are some ground cover plants that can tolerate some foot traffic: Creeping Thyme, Blue Star Creeper, Brass Buttons, Creeping Mazus and Sedum.

Try adding some more features like a sub-irrigated planter system, shown in this video:

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Paver Walkway Ideas: Tips for Building a Planted Path

Arrange the stones along the walkway, leaving at least 4 in. between them for plants. Then cut along the edge of the stones with a flat spade to outline the path.
Slice off a layer of sod and soil about 1-1/2 in. deep.
Spread a 1/2-in. layer of sand. This will allow the stones to settle in slightly and keep them from rocking.
Choose plants that will stand up to traffic and grow in the available light and soil type.
Water the new plants frequently for the first few months until the plants are well-established.
Pull weeds and grass from between the stones every few weeks to prevent them from overrunning the plants.

Originally Published: April 26, 2019

25 Most Beautiful DIY Garden Path Ideas

25 beautiful garden path ideas & professional landscape design tips! How to create attractive DIY backyard walkways with easy to find materials such as gravel, brick, stepping stones, wood, pavers, or even mulch!

As a landscape designer, one of my favorite topics of garden design and backyard landscaping is the garden path! A well thought out and lovingly created garden path makes a garden come alive. It guides us to experience the magic and beauty of a garden fully.

I made this collection to share with you some of my favorite DIY friendly and gorgeous garden path ideas, and a list of helpful resources / books: ( Some of the helpful resources are affiliate links. Full disclosure here. )

If you want to dive in, here are a few of my favorite books with lots of great details on garden path construction!

The Complete Pebble Mosaic Handbook: I just LOVE this book. So many amazing patterns and close-up instruction photos!
Ultimate Guide: Walks, Patios & Walls: Landscaping and design ideas with DIY instructions and lots of photos for brick, mortar, concrete, flagstone, & tile

* Some resources in article are affiliate links. Full disclosure here .

1. Easy Landscaping DIY Gravel Garden Paths

The first group of garden path ideas, are loose materials: Wood chips, gravel or decomposed granite. They are the easiest and least expensive landscaping materials to create garden walkways.

Source: Brinitzer | DIY Network

Flexible metal or stone edging (can be easily made from local rocks) gives a nice definition to this garden path, and keeps the gravel in place.

2. Wood Mulch DIY Garden Path Ideas

Pros: Wood Chips, gravel and stepping stones ( perfect for those who loves to walk bare feet! ) are great beginner-friendly landscaping materials for DIY garden paths. They are the easiest to handle and least expensive material.

Source: BHG | Bliss Garden Design

They are soft underfoot, but solid enough to handle heavy foot traffic or a loaded wheelbarrow. A border can enhance the looks of these garden pathways greatly.

Cons: They need to be top-dressed every 1-3 years. If you need to shovel snow often, gravel is not the best choice. Not suitable for steep slopes.

3. Gravel Garden Path Variations Source: Bliss Garden Design | Karl Gercens

Compacted decomposed granite ( aka DG, basically super fine gravel, looks and feels like fine sand with smaller than ¼” particles) is really comfortable to walk on. It’s used a lot in Mediterranean and Southwestern style garden designs.

4. Easy DIY Flagstone Garden Paths Set in SandSource: Sunset

Flagstone is a beautiful landscape material. It is easy to set them in sand and create a stylish garden walk!

5

. Stepping Stones as Garden Paths

A great DIY landscaping project that everyone can do: use stepping stones to create garden paths, and plant some beautiful ground-cover plants in between.

Source: This is Seco | DIY Network

6. Woodland Garden Paths with Natural Stepping Stones

A landscape design secret for you: natural stones are the perfect materials to create meandering pathways through a woodland garden!

Source: Bliss Garden Design | Sisson Landscapes

7. Japanese Garden Path Ideas

Such a poetic Japanese garden design: the pebbles here are a metaphor for streams and rivers, and the little wooden bridge is stunning. Love the deep blue color of the slate!

Source: RKL Design

8. Small Stone and Slate Modern Garden Walkway

Gray colored gravel or slate chips also look great in a modern style garden!

Source: Katherine Roper

9. DIY Brick Garden Path

Brick is a timeless material in garden design. It is especially suitable for traditional and cottage garden design, such as a Mediterranean or English garden.

Source: Family Handyman

10

. Pavers and Grass Garden Path ideas

A grassy area is beautiful. It is not suitable for heavy traffic such as loaded wheel barrels. By adding attractive pavers such as brick, slate, or concrete stepping stones, you can have both beauty and functionality!

Source: Indulgy

11 – 13. Garden Walkway Patterns

You can create beautiful patterns and designs on your garden paths with bricks, pavers, concrete, or stone. Some popular patterns are herringbone and checkers.

Source: Family Handyman Source: A Blade of Grass | Schmechtig Landscapes

14.

Grass Walkway in the Garden

A grassy walk is great for lush garden areas with less foot traffic and people who love walking bare feet (like me!)

Source: Green Dreams

15. Stepping stones through grass walk.RS Garden Design

16. Cobblestone garden path

One of my favorite garden path designs is old cobble stones. It’s used a lot in traditional European gardens, and the rustic vibe is irresistible.

Hendy Curzon

17 & 18. Variations of broken concrete garden path

Broken up concrete is a great material for creating garden paths. Here the pieces look very much like natural stone.

OKB ArchitectsMooreAbout

A variation of up-cycled broken concrete path with gravel filled in between the stepping “stones”.

19. Wood garden paths

The wood plank path and recycled railroad ties path require more skill in carpentry and construction.

Source: Garden Design Co | Family Handyman

Important: wood can get slippery, especially after a rain or in shade. Always add an anti-slip coating on wood paths in shade or in rainy climate.

20 –

23. Creative Garden PathwaysOwner Builder Network

Make your own wood “stepping stones” with 2x4s or 2x6s, and set them in gravel for an unique landscape design feature!

Greenhouse Carol | ( Glass bottles image source lost. Please let me know if you find it! )

The recycled bottle path and edging looks beautiful as the glass bottles reflect the sun light!

24

. Wood Logs as Garden Walkways

Here’s a video tutorial on DIY wood steps. Instead of using Roundup to suppress weeds, please consider using a weed barrier fabric, or plant ground covers such as Thyme or Sedum!

The wood slice path is perfect for an enchanted woodland garden. ( Source: PendletonDM )

25. DIY Pebble Mosaic Garden Path Ideas This Old House

If you want to learn more about pebble mosaics, check out this book I love: The Complete Pebble Mosaic Handbook. Super inspiring!

For more great garden ideas, check out these magical living structures you can create!

And 30+ pallet furniture and projects for the outdoors!

Happy creating!!

Types of garden paths. Paving. Form. Coating. Laying. Photo — Botanichka

The architectural appearance of the site largely depends on how well the paths (pedestrian and automobile) are planned and executed. The entrance and entrance to the site can be close or separate. Their organization depends on the relative position of buildings, places for storing building materials, fertilizers, fuel, and parking for a car. Garden paths have not only a strictly practical purpose, linking the most visited places on the garden plot, but they are also a very important artistic and aesthetic element. The paths must be such that they can be used in any weather. At the same time, I would like them not to require much maintenance, and their appearance always remained attractive.

Gravel garden path. © Tracy O

Types of garden paths

Path outlines, paving pattern, texture and color of the material from which the paths are made can be varied and depend on their purpose and the general style of the site design. In addition, paving materials must be practical, durable and easy to maintain.

Simple paving of paths from available and common materials can be done even by a non-specialist. In this case, the main attention should be paid to the artistic side, which should reflect your personality. Tastefully thought out details, meticulous execution are the main conditions for success. On garden plots, you can make paths of various types: dirt, grass, gravel, gravel, brick, or clinker, end, tiled (made of stone or concrete slabs) and concrete monolithic.

The choice of coverage is mainly related to the purpose of the paths, the general style of the site, the availability of materials and their cost. Dirt, grassy and partly gravel and gravel paths require constant care. But hard-surfaced tracks are more durable, always clean, neat, and often more beautiful.

Gravel Path

Gravel paths are usually built in an area where there is a nearby quarry or crushing plant. Paths made of crushed stone and gravel last long enough and are easy to manufacture. For their construction, it is necessary to prepare a bed 15 cm deep, carefully trample the bottom, lay a layer of coarse gravel mixed with heavy clay, 10-12 cm thick on the bottom, pour this layer with water from a hose, let it soak and carefully tamp or roll the crushed stone base. Pour a layer of fine gravel 3-5 cm thick on top, tamp and pour water several times to shrink.

The gravel path is very environmentally friendly, the natural material looks natural and unobtrusive and goes with almost any decorating style. In addition, the gravel is very plastic and loose, and therefore the path can easily be given any shape.

There is another way to lay a gravel path: on the prepared bottom of the bed, lay and compact a layer of coarse gravel 5 cm thick, then a layer of sand mixed with clay, 2 cm thick. water is absorbed, pour a layer of fine gravel 2 cm thick on top and pour water.

A gravel path can be lined with curbstones to reinforce it and prevent the gravel from spilling over the sides of the path. In this case, the curb stone can be placed in various ways relative to the ground level; rise above it to a height of 5 cm or be flush with the surface of the track and turf. The width of the path in the case of laying curbstones includes 20 cm of working clearance on the right and left.

The bed of the track is made 30 cm deep and its base is laid in layers over the width (minus gaps), as described above. In the gaps of 20 cm left along the edges, they make the foundation for the curb stone from lean concrete on rubble. A curb is installed on the concrete so that it rises 5 cm above the surface of the track or its end is flush with the gravel.

The concrete foundation must protrude a few centimeters from the outer side of the curb stone, otherwise it will tip over when the path bursts.

Sand paths are of the same type, only gravel is replaced with coarse-grained river sand.

Brick garden path. © jonathan

Brick walkway

For this walkway, it is better to use durable fired bricks of any color, by the way, the colors can be combined to achieve a good artistic effect. Usually brick paths are made in small areas, near water bodies, in places of recreation, near terraces, playgrounds. Combining styling options, you can get a lot of patterns.

It is easier to pave with bricks than to build a crushed stone or gravel path. Pour crushed stone 5 cm thick on the compacted bottom of the prepared bed, and lay a layer of sand 5-7 cm thick on top and carefully trample down, pour water to compact and compact again. Bricks can be laid directly on a sand cushion or on a cement mortar applied in an even layer over the sand base with a gap between the bricks of no more than 5-6 mm.

It is better to start by laying out the edge of the path so that it is easier to check the level of other bricks. Bricks should be laid out with the chosen pattern, slightly pressing them into the base. After laying each row, it is necessary to place a board on its surface and tap on it with a hammer to level the level of the bricks and achieve their tightest fit to the ground and to each other.

It is possible not to fasten the laid bricks together, pouring only sand into the seams, but it is better to fill the seams with a dry cement mixture. To do this, it must be scattered over the surface of the laid bricks and brushed or brushed into the gaps between the bricks and compacted there with a wooden lath so that air bubbles do not form. After that, the brick path must be watered with water using a fine mesh watering can or a hose with a fine spray nozzle.

It is important that when watering, the dry mixture does not wash out of the gaps between the bricks and at the same time wash away the excess powder from the bricks. If there are still stains from the cement on the bricks, they must be wiped off with a damp cloth before it hardens. The dry mix in the seams under the action of water will seize and securely fasten the bricks together. It is also possible to fill the joints directly with grout using a profile trowel.

Cobblestone path. © picturesboss

Cobblestone paths

Cobblestone paths are usually made in places where it can be obtained as a building material, often determined by the proximity of the quarry. The cobblestone is very beautiful, each stone has its own unique pattern, texture, color, and all together they are able to make a natural mosaic stone panel. Therefore, cobblestone paths and platforms look very noble. The principle of building such a paved path is the same as when laying a brick path.

The foundation for it is a layer of crushed stone and a layer of sand and clay laid on top of it. After carefully compacting the sand cushion, a layer of cement mortar is distributed on top and cobblestones are laid out randomly or in the form of a pattern as close to each other as possible. When laying, the cobblestones are slightly pressed into the mortar, excess mortar is removed from the gaps with a profile trowel. In the process of laying cobblestones, the masonry surface must be leveled with a wooden plank laid on top.

Stone path. © Jon Ross

Natural Stone Paths

Chipped and Slab Stone Paths outperform other types of paving in expressiveness and durability, always remaining dry and clean. But due to the high cost, their use on the site is limited. Usually they build entrance paths leading to the house. It is very good to make narrow paths passing through lawns to various sites or next to flower groups. The dimensions of the slabs depend on the type of stone and how it is processed.

It is better to use irregularly shaped slabs of crushed stone in areas. They can be of different sizes and shapes, but their thickness should be the same, which will facilitate even installation. Chipped stone slabs are cheaper than regular-shaped slabs, they have different colors, so they need to be selected so that they match the color of stairs, walls and other elements. Rubble stone pricks well, it needs to be given the desired shape using a hammer and chisel.

Stone slabs and crushed stone can be laid in different ways: the stone is laid on a compacted layer of sand 8-10 cm thick, and the seams are filled with sand; stones and slabs are laid on a layer of mortar prepared from cement and sand (1: 5), and the seams are filled with mortar using a profile trowel; large single stones and slabs are laid on the ground without preparing the foundation. To do this, in the turf, a contour of the tile is marked with a shovel bayonet and a piece of it is cut out in the shape of a tile to a depth slightly greater than its thickness.

A thin layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the recess formed in the turf to level its surface. Then a stone is placed in the recess so that it is just below the level of the lawn surface and cannot fall under the lawn mower blade. The laying pattern depends on the shape of the stone and the purpose of the path (platform). When laying the plates, it is necessary to ensure that sharp corners do not converge at one point.

The contours of the track can be straight or form a broken line.

When grouting the joints between stones, try to smooth them as evenly as possible. Careless seams can spoil the whole picture. In addition, the cement mortar for joints can be tinted with special additives in a contrasting color and an interesting color effect can be achieved. The attractiveness of natural stone paths lies not only in the decorativeness of natural stone, but also in the pattern, which is made up of slabs and pieces of stone of different sizes and shapes.

Paths made of concrete slabs. © Rizzo Masonry

Concrete slab walkways

Concrete slab walkways are significantly cheaper than natural stone walkways. Due to the unusual variety of shapes, colors and textures of tiles, it is easy to match them to the tone and style of the site. The external neutrality of concrete allows you to combine tiles with brick, cobblestone, natural stone. It depends entirely on your imagination. Paths and platforms from ready-made concrete slabs are built as follows.

A layer of sand is poured onto the prepared base, after leveling and compacting, the slabs are laid. So that they do not move when walking, they must be deepened by hammer blows through a wooden block or board. When building paths from slabs laid end-to-end, a layer of sand on sandy soils can be 2-3 cm. On clay and loamy soils, a layer of gravel, slag or small brick cullet is first laid in 5-10 cm, and then 4-5 cm of sand .

Single slabs and slabs loosely placed on the lawn can be laid on the ground without additional foundation. Other ways of laying concrete slabs are laying them on a mortar applied to a prepared pad. The solution is usually distributed in small portions: 4 at the corners of the tile and 1 in the center. When pressed under the weight of the tile, the solution is evenly distributed over its entire area.

The location of the slabs depends on the type and purpose of the path, platform.

For example, the slabs on the path leading from the street to the house should be laid next to each other.
Rarely used paths can be left with gaps between the slabs, filled with earth and planted with grass and annual flowers.
On the terraces around the pool with water, you can leave free space between the slabs for planting flowers or low shrubs.

If the path is straight and made of single slabs laid on the lawn, then the distance between the slabs must be the same and correspond to the length of the average step. On free paths, the distance between the plates may be different. Paths and platforms made of variously laid slabs of various shapes, as well as slabs connected with clinker or stone, look spectacular.

Concrete slabs can be easily made by yourself in wooden molds or directly on the ground using wooden or metal templates. The availability of concrete slab manufacturing makes it possible to implement a project in which everything is subject to a single plan, from the shape of the tile to the laying pattern. Tiles can be square, rectangular, triangular, hexagonal, trapezoidal, or irregular in shape.

It can be painted in the color of brick, stone in almost any desired color. You can add stone or marble chips, colored glass, particles of ceramics or metal to the top layer, as well as decorate the tiles with a relief pattern. For casting plates, home-made wooden molds are used, knocked together from boards and bars. If you fold any two bars groove into groove, they form tight joints that can be easily separated if necessary. Plates are cast in dimensions of 40x60 and 50x60 cm with a thickness of 5-8 cm with reinforcement from a round steel bar with a diameter of 5-8 mm, made in the form of a lattice. Before pouring concrete, the finished form must be lubricated with drying oil or any technical oil.

Round slabs are cast in pieces of a metal pipe; an ordinary bucket without a bottom can be used as a mold.

The rebar is placed after the mold is half filled with concrete so that it is in the middle of the concrete slab. Then the form is completely filled with concrete, it is well compacted, leveling the surface. Care must be taken to ensure that the reinforcement is completely recessed into the concrete solution. If it is necessary to obtain a dense, smooth, as if polished surface, it is ironed: an even layer of dry cement 5-7 mm thick is poured onto the wet surface of the mortar and rubbed with a metal trowel so that the surface is smooth and the cement is saturated with water.

The slabs must be kept in the molds for at least 2-3 days until fully cured. Their surface must be moistened daily with water, watering from a watering can or hose, and covered from direct sunlight. Plates can be given different colors. To do this, mineral colorants are added to the concrete mixture or multi-colored pebbles are added to the surface layer of concrete on the front side of the slabs.

The yellow color of the plates is achieved by adding ocher (1/2 part of ocher, 1 part of cement and 1 part of white sand), brown - by adding umber (in the same proportions as with ocher), green - by adding glauconite green (1 part glauconite green and 1 part white cement and white sand).

To paint a concrete slab, you need a dry mineral stain of the desired color. But for the solution that is supposed to be painted, white cement is used, and white quartz sand is used as a filler. The coloring of the tiles consists of two main operations: a dry dye is poured in an even layer on the solution that has just been poured into the mold and the dye is rubbed into the surface of the solution with a metal trowel. Both operations are immediately repeated, using half of the dye used up the first time.

After pouring the mold and leveling the surface, when the moisture evaporates, you can apply any simple design using a stamp made of hard wire, pressing it into the surface of the tile to a depth of 2-3 mm. After the first hardening of the solution, the pattern is swept with a brush. The surface of the tile can be finished with coarse gravel, pebbles, crushed stone, broken ceramic tiles, colored glass, marble or granite.

In the first method, the filler (grain diameter 2-3 cm) is evenly scattered over the tile on an even mortar in the form, it is rubbed into the surface with a metal trowel. After the first hardening, the solution is removed from the outer surfaces of the filler with a stiff brush and water.

There is also another way of finishing slabs, in which flat pebbles or flat stones (crush), fragments of ceramic tiles, colored glass are laid out on the surface of the tile in a mold and pressed into the mortar with a wooden block so that the mortar does not cover them from above. After the first hardening, the aggregate is wiped with a damp brush. After 2-3 days, the form can be disassembled, reassembled in a new place and poured with concrete again.

Concrete garden path. © Les Chatfield

Monolithic concrete walkways

Monolithic paths are highly durable, do not deform and do not burst through even when moving a car, garden equipment, or a heavily loaded wheelbarrow along them. It makes sense to build such paths at the points of arrival of vehicles, from the gate to the garage, shed or to the place of unfinished construction, since in these places the path must withstand significant loads. However, it is possible to build monolithic paths over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site. Their surface can be finished in various ways and made very decorative.

The basis for decorating a monolithic walkway is the same techniques that are used for decorating tiles: coloring with mineral dyes, interspersing pebbles, colored glass, ceramic fragments, creating a surface texture and relief. Such a path will not look rough, gray and faded. By alternating colored areas with areas finished with stones, pebbles, arranging between them straight and curved dividing walls made of wood and metal, or combining monolithic concrete with other types of paving, you can get a diverse set of decorative finishes for paths and playgrounds.

Making a monolithic concrete walkway is not at all difficult. In addition, the tracks can be given any shape, smooth lines and complex curvilinear outlines can be created. For the manufacture of such a path, the outlines of the path or platform are preliminarily outlined and the bed is prepared, for which the fertile soil layer is removed to a depth of at least 15 cm, the bottom of the bed is carefully compacted. On the sides of the tracks, along and across, (with an interval of 1.5-2 m) formwork is fixed on a horizontal level from even boards 2-2.5 cm thick.

Sand is poured into the formwork, and then crushed stone with a layer of 8-10 cm, it is compacted and poured with concrete into the level of the formwork. The concrete is carefully rolled, and the surface is leveled with the edge of a wooden lath resting on the formwork boards. Concrete immediately expands and sets after laying. With this in mind, hollow connecting joints are left every 1 m² of concrete surface, which are subsequently filled.

Immediately after the concrete has been compacted with a wet board to the desired level, the concrete surface is smoothed with a plaster trowel so that the moisture that has come out spreads evenly. When the concrete begins to harden, but remains still wet, it is brushed over with a dense brush. A rough uneven surface structure is formed. As the concrete dries, pebbles can be sprinkled into it.

After laying, the concrete is covered with plastic sheeting to protect it from rain and allow gradual drying. If the path is made in the summer, it can be walked on after 5 days, in winter - only after 10 days, heavy loads - after 2 weeks. Then the stripping is carried out. A curb stone is laid along the edges of the path, which can be cobblestones, bricks or other material.

Path edging

Many paths, including those near flower beds and lawns, do not need a clear edge. Others noticeably benefit from a low, narrow fence with contrasting material. Brick or paving stones are deepened into the ground along paths made of concrete or slabs. The edging of the concrete path is best done from the inside of the formwork before pouring the concrete mortar.

Garden path. © thefreepatriot

Making Garden Paths

Be aware that a straight line for a path is not always the best solution. Unless, of course, your site is divided regularly and symmetrically, do not even try to create paths on its territory that lead from the entrance gate through the very middle of the lawn to the entrance of the house. Get a nightmare. Because a straight path, like a razor blade, will mercilessly cut through the entire surrounding space. What to do? It will not work to move the gate to another place, therefore, try to plant flower beds along the path, decorate with arched pergolas; arrange small branches along the way in the form of platforms with a bench or a mini-reservoir.

On the other hand, too winding paths are also not very convenient, they make it difficult to move around the garden.

Each track has its own width depending on the destination. Let's say the front entrance can not be already 3 meters. Otherwise, the car will remain behind the fence. The usual width of functional tracks is 0.6-0.9 meters. But it is better to make paths for walking in the fresh air not already 1-1.2 meters. Then two people can freely walk side by side.

Among the many varieties of road surfaces, two main types are usually distinguished according to their properties: hard (brick, paving stones, flagstone, natural stone, concrete tiles, clinker) and soft (granite screenings, marble chips, gravel, pebbles, sand). There is also a third group, the so-called special coatings, created on the basis of a mixture of natural bulk materials and synthetic resins.

For car access roads and for parking use only hard surfaces.
Rest areas and patios are also most often paved with tiles or natural stone.
Walking paths - depending on the purpose, all types and materials are used for them, combined paths look very nice.
Sports and children's playgrounds provide soft surfaces (sand, rubber), grass surfaces or special mixtures of various compositions.

The structure of the track consists of several layers: soil, load-bearing base and top cover. When choosing a coating, one should take into account: operating conditions, soil composition, load and climate.

The soil layer bears the main load, so it requires careful preparation. First, the turf and the top layer of soil (about 15 cm) are removed to the width of the path, the roots are leveled and cut, and a slope is arranged for water to drain.

The next layer is most often crushed stone, this is the bearing base. Further, the order and materials differ depending on the chosen coating: sand, cement or concrete mixture.

And the last, top layer is, in fact, the coating itself.

The choice of materials and coating options is so great that you want to use everything that you like. However, one should stop and remember the unspoken law of landscape design: garden areas and paths are paved with the same type of building material. This gives the entire space a stylistic unity. If the territory is vast, and the owners of the cottage want diversity, then it is allowed to combine several different coatings. True, no more than 2-3 types.

Gravel is a relatively inexpensive material. Granite screenings or marble chips are more expensive. Such paths look beautiful, fit tightly, come in different colors. And the arrangement of tracks is not difficult. Work begins with the preparation of the base with a depth of at least 15 cm and cleaning the surface of roots and stones. Then a special fabric (geotextile) is laid, sometimes a layer of crushed stone is laid under it. But geotextiles are tightly compacted loose coating.

Gravel paths, like other soft pavement, will require a curb: brick, timber, small logs, ceramic curb tile or special stone.

Patterned wood rounds also make very cozy paths. The saw cuts are laid in a groove with sand, having previously treated the wood with anti-rotting agents. It is a pity, but the service life is reduced to 3-5 years. It is wiser to lay such a path in those corners of the garden where you do not look too often. For example, when arranging paths for caring for large flower beds or a lawn. But a high-quality imitation of wood saw cuts, cast from concrete, is appropriate everywhere and is durable, unlike the original.

A separate type of paths - intermittent (step-by-step) paths. Their best surface is stone, blocks, decorative concrete slabs, tree cuts, or their concrete imitation. If you intend to arrange curvilinear paths, then it is advisable to lay them out of the so-called torn natural stone, which will emphasize the picturesqueness of the common space and will not require the installation of a curb.

Before laying a step-by-step path across the lawn, walk the desired path. Put the slabs in your steps and walk again, shifting them so that each time another slab is under your foot. Don't forget other family members as well. Draw a contour around the plate with a knife. Move it aside and cut a piece of sod deeper than the thickness of the slab. Then lay raw concrete in the recess, press the slab firmly on top and tamp it down so that it sinks just below the level of the lawn.

We are waiting for your comments!

10 Best Materials for Garden Paths

Garden paths must be easy to move, not deform under mechanical stress and withstand climatic changes in the environment.

Contents

Why garden paths are needed

If there are no equipped paths on the site, then problems arise related to the characteristics of the soil: such a situation is difficult to avoid falling.

Dirt sticks to shoes, which is then brought into the house.

There are so many labor-intensive works on the site, and frequent cleanings in the room add unnecessary trouble.

Carrying a garden cart on uneven paths is problematic, especially if you need to move a heavy load.

Wet grass touches clothes, so you often have to change wet clothes for dry ones.

Baby strollers and bicycles for toddlers can hardly overcome bumps and pits on the ground surface.

In addition to being practical, well-decorated garden paths effectively decorate the landscape and create a harmonious space.

Design solutions

The landscaping of a garden plot begins with a plan of the area, on which permanent and temporary buildings are marked, as well as the location of green spaces.

To create an aesthetic and useful space when arranging garden paths, it is recommended to follow the simple rules of landscape design:

Paths must connect all areas used by hosts. Short paths, breaking off in an arbitrary place, create a feeling of unfinished decorative work.
Paths with natural curves for entering the recreation area or enveloping flower beds and flower beds look harmonious. Chaotic waves from the paths visually overload the landscape.
Paving stones
For large gardens, wide walking paths are provided so that two people or special vehicles can pass freely along them.
If the garden has a symmetrical layout with geometric shapes, then the paths are made straight. The landscape style, close to the natural arrangement of plants, is decorated with curved lines of paths.
In places with slopes, it is advisable to form steps for safe passage.
Paths that are used year-round use different technologies than summer paths.

Beautiful path made of cut wood

The size of the paths may vary depending on the purpose - the main passages are made wide, and the auxiliary paths can be narrower. It is allowed to apply various methods of creating pavements and combine diverse road materials in one landscape space.

Types of garden paths

Before proceeding with the choice of material for creating paths, it is necessary to draw a plan of the site, mark on it all the buildings and the location of plantings.

The main walkways, which are often used, are preferably made of hard materials, while auxiliary paths can be made of soft materials.

Chip garden path

Cover type

Materials

Pros

Cons

Soft

Sand, crushed stone, gravel, boards, tree bark.

+ budget option;

+ are created in a short time;

+ do not require special skills.

- suitable for operation only in the warm season;

- short-lived;

- you have to often backfill.

Hard

Concrete, brick, tile, stone, paving stone.

+ durability;

+ year-round operation;

+ can be used to pass garden machinery;

+ no need for regular maintenance.

- expensive materials and fixtures;

- active physical strength required;

- some ways of creating tracks require the involvement of specialists;

- complex dismantling of coatings, if a decision is made to change the direction of an already finished trail.

Concrete paths

Concrete is a mixture of a binder component (usually building cement is used), crushed stone and water. In order for the solution to quickly harden, special additives are used. To create a garden path from a solid concrete pavement, perform the following steps:

Mark the boundaries of the path and remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 30 cm.
Mount the formwork from wooden boards and pointed pegs. The upper edge of the formwork protrudes 5 cm above the ground. Stakes are located between the boards and the walls of the trench. For winding paths, the formwork is made of plastic materials.
Geotextile or any other agromaterial is laid at the bottom of the trench, the edges of which lead to the walls. This is necessary so that the subsequent layer of sand is not washed away by rainwater penetrating into the soil.
Fill the hole with 7 cm sand, then spill it with water.
10 centimeters of crushed stone are poured over the sand and compacted.
If you plan to use the paths not only for walking, but also for the passage of garden vehicles (trolley, lawn mower, walk-behind tractor), then it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh on a layer of crushed stone.
Pour 7-10 centimeters of concrete evenly into the structure. Approximate proportions of a strong mortar (in buckets) per 12 kg of dry cement: water -1, sand -2, crushed stone -3. It is advisable to use a concrete mixer, it is very difficult to manually prepare the solution.
Level the surface of the concrete pour with a trowel.
For easy drainage of water, the central part of the path should be 1 cm higher than the longitudinal edges, and the entire structure should rise 2-3 cm above the soil.
After the concrete has dried, the formwork must be removed.

Please note! Every two meters it is necessary to create expansion joints across the track. If this is not done, then the concrete will crack under the influence of seasonal changes in air temperature.

Garden paths created with molds for casting cement mortar look interesting and provide an opportunity for the implementation of design creativity.

To make the mixture decorative, special dyes, marble chips or artificial elements are added. Forms can be made of metal, plastic or wood.

The use of stencils reduces the time of creating paths in the garden, but requires careful adherence to the technology:

Mark the contours of the future track.
Remove the top layer of soil.
Place geotextile on the bottom.
Pour and compact sand well, then spill it with water.
Level the sand layer with a spirit level so that further laying is carried out strictly horizontally.
Apply used car oil or any lubricating fluid to the inside of the mold with a brush.
Set the stencil to the pouring point according to the level.
Fill the bottom with one layer of gravel.
Mix 1 part cement and 3 parts sand with water. You should get a thick mixture in which you can add dye.
Pour the mixture into the mold and level with a spatula. If necessary, you can smooth and pour a little water on top to obtain a smooth surface.
Remove the stencil after 1 hour by lightly tapping it with a mallet.
Clean the mold from cement residues, grease with oil and place next to the cast tile, leaving a small gap.
Follow the example of the first casting to form all subsequent plates.

Please note! The concrete path is covered with a film for three days so that the coating does not dry out quickly and does not crack from this.

Stone paths

Lemezit flagstone paths

Limestone and shell rock are not suitable for stone paths, because they do not have the necessary strength and quickly collapse during operation. When creating a reliable coating, preference is given to granite, wild stone, sandstone and pebbles.

Laying technology is not difficult for independent work:

Drive pegs along the marking contour and connect them with a stretched cord. The distance between the marks is determined by the degree of curvature of the lines - the straighter the segment, the greater the intervals.
Remove topsoil to a depth of 40 cm to prevent grass from growing through the pavement.
Pour a small amount of sand and place geotextile on it in one layer.
Lay out the reinforcement mesh along the bottom of the trench.
Sprinkle 10 cm of sand first, then 5 cm of dry cement.
Sprinkle with water.
Place a stone (sea pebbles, paving stones or granite blocks) tightly on the resulting pillow.
Fill gaps with cement mortar.
Install curbs along the edges of the path.

Especially popular is flagstone - a flat stone 10-15 centimeters thick with an arbitrary contour. For the arrangement of garden roads, sandstone flagstone is chosen. It is easily cut with a grinder, and self-assembly will not be difficult. Flagstone is laid on a cement base or on a bed of sand and gravel.

The simplest paths in execution are made of two types of medium-sized stone:

Crushed stone - mined in quarries by blasting rocks, and then crushed on industrial machines. It has sharp edges on the surface.
Gravel - small flat stones with a smooth surface.

To create a path from crushed stone or gravel, a pit is dug 20-30 cm deep, the bottom is dug up and leveled - this is necessary so that the shrinkage is evenly distributed over the ground. A curbstone is installed, the trench is covered with coarse gravel or broken bricks, and then a layer of sand is added.

Geotextile is spread on the prepared pillow and covered with gravel or crushed stone. At the end of the process, the surface is leveled with a rake and spilled with water.

Pavement budget brick

Destroyed old brick buildings can provide road material without great financial outlay. Not only whole products will be used, but also broken pieces of various fractions. If possible, it is better to use silicate brick. In the case when an artificial clay stone is used, before laying it is necessary to treat it twice with a hydrophobic solution - this will protect the material from the destructive effects of rainwater.

The layout of the bricks on the path is simple and can be:

longitudinal;
transverse;
herringbone;
braided;
alternating blocks of horizontal and vertical lines.

In order not to break the symmetry of the pattern and to ensure comfortable passage of the garden wheelbarrow, the turns are made smooth.

The construction of a brick path consists of simple steps that do not require special training:

Dig a trench 25-20 cm deep, compact it.
Line the bottom with geotextile, under which it is desirable to pour sand.
Lay temporary boards strictly vertically along the walls of the trench and secure them with pegs.
Create a drainage pad consisting of 5 cm of sand and 10 cm of gravel.
Flatten the top layer using a rule.
Cover with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5 to a thickness of 5 cm and tamp.
Remove the guide boards and install curbs in their place.
Lay the bricks on the sand bed, push in and level. The curvature can be corrected by removing some of the sand under the brick or putting some rubble under it.
Tap the laid row with a mallet, placing a board under it.

To fill the joints, a mixture of sand and cement is poured onto the surface of the finished track. Then brush it into the cracks with a brush and spill the coating with water. After a few days of operation, repeat the procedure to fill the remaining voids.

Wooden walkways

Wood is now rarely used for landscaping garden paths. The reason for this is the high cost of the material and the fragility of wooden flooring. In addition, in rainy weather, the coating becomes slippery and unsafe for movement. But wooden paths look beautiful and are easy to install, so some owners choose this way of landscape design.

Sod is removed under the path to reduce the chance of breaking grass.

Without geotextiles, grass will definitely grow!

It is desirable to lay a layer of geotextile or roofing material on the bottom of the base. Next, sand and a little gravel are poured. Logs treated with bituminous mastic are laid on top, on which boards impregnated with an antiseptic are attached in the transverse direction.

To create an atmosphere as close to nature as possible, wooden paths are formed from cut logs or stumps. The blanks are soaked in hot drying oil or antiseptic, and the underside is additionally impregnated with bituminous mastic.

Lay saw cuts in random order on a pillow of sand and gravel, tapping with a mallet. The gaps are filled with coarse sand or gravel.

Paths made of artificial materials

Polymer sand slabs do not lose their strength for 30-40 years, do not break and withstand sudden changes in air temperature without problems. They are made from a mixture of sand and crushed recycled polymers with the addition of a coloring pigment. The composite is heated in industrial furnaces and pressed - a reliable building material is obtained.

The work on laying polymer plates is carried out in the following sequence:

Remove the top layer of soil on the shovel bayonet.
Tamp the bottom and form grooves for installing curbstones.
Designate a curb line - put pegs and pull a cord between them.
Sand is poured into the recesses for the fence of the path and a concrete pad is formed on which the curb stone is attached.
Geotextiles are spread on the ground, overlapping the canvas along the length by 15-20 cm.
Sand is poured in several stages, compacting and spilling each layer. You should get a sand cushion 20 centimeters high.
Polymer tiles are installed on a sandy base tightly to each other, tapping horizontal rows with a mallet.

If it is planned to move heavy loads along the tracks, it is advisable to strengthen the base with a reinforcing mesh with a mesh of 50 mm and fill the structure with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1 to a height of 10 cm.

The pressed rubber crumb boards provide a level surface with high anti-slip properties. Tiles are available in two types - with evenly cut edges and with end sleeves. For garden paths, the second version of the material is better suited, because it makes it possible to firmly adhere the plates to each other. The optimal thickness of the rubber tile is 40 mm.

To create a rubber coating, remove a layer of soil 25 cm thick, and then level the bottom with coarse sand. Geotextiles are spread and 10 cm of fine gravel are poured onto it. Be sure to install rubber curbs, after which a layer of geotextile is laid again. Wet sand is poured, leveled and compacted to obtain a pillow 10 cm high. Tiles are laid on the prepared base.

Please note! If there is a gap between the slabs and the curb, it must be filled with strips of laying material.

Garden paths can be easily formed from modular covers with interlocks. Durable, flexible plastic mats withstand temperature fluctuations and are resistant to mechanical stress. Are issued in the form of lattices or modules with drainage openings for removal of moisture.

Laid directly on the lawn or on a concrete base. For the winter period, it is advisable to dismantle, rinse the modules with running water and store them in the room.

Old car tires can be used for auxiliary roads. The wheels are dismantled and their side parts are cut off - ring tapes are obtained, which are cut in only one place. The resulting rubber strips are interconnected with a plain weave. Several rugs are assembled into a track, fixing the ends to wooden bars. Lay the coating on the ground, sprinkled with gravel.

A variety of materials for creating garden paths allows you to independently improve the site in any landscape style!

Concrete monolithic

6.61%

Concrete molds
7.89%

from wood

7.3%

14.13% 9000
From artificial materials

16.2%

From paving stones

11.
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